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Stain & Varnish

Johnstone's Interior Exterior Woodstain Natural Oak 750ml

Johnstone's Interior Exterior Woodstain Natural Oak 2.5L

Johnstone's Interior Exterior Woodstain Dark Rosewood 2.5L

Johnstone's Interior Exterior Woodstain Red Mahogany 2.5L

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Johnstone's Interior Exterior Woodstain Red Mahogany 750ml

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Johnstone's Interior Exterior Woodstain Antique Pine 2.5L

Johnstone's Interior Exterior Woodstain Country Walnut 750ml

Johnstone's Interior Exterior Woodstain Dark Rosewood 750ml

Dulux Woodsheen Stain & Varnish 250ml - Warm Maple

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Dulux Woodsheen Stain & Varnish 750ml - Antique Pine

Dulux Woodsheen Stain & Varnish 250ml - Rich Mahogany

Dulux Woodsheen Stain & Varnish 750ml - Ebony

Dulux Woodsheen Stain & Varnish 750ml - French Oak

Dulux Woodsheen Stain & Varnish 750ml - Golden Teak

Dulux Woodsheen Stain & Varnish 750ml - Warm Maple

Dulux Woodsheen Stain & Varnish 250ml - Antique Pine

Dulux Woodsheen Stain & Varnish 750ml - Church Oak

Dulux Woodsheen Stain & Varnish 750ml - Rich Mahogany

Dulux Woodsheen Stain & Varnish 250ml - Dark Walnut

Dulux Woodsheen Stain & Varnish 250ml - French Oak

Dulux Woodsheen Stain & Varnish 250ml - Golden Teak

Whether you need to protect wooden decking or garden furniture, we have plenty of well known brands such as Spear & Jackson’s Decking Stain and Cuprinol’s Garden Furniture Stain range allowing you the choice of quality products at quality prices. Visit your local B&M store for unbeatable quality on our exterior paint range.

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Heavy Duty Yacht Varnish

Johnstone's Trade Woodworks Heavy Duty Yacht Varnish has been specially formulated for use on all exterior smooth-planed timber, doors and window frames. It provides a flexible varnish film that flexes with the timber surface whilst protecting the wood. Our Heavy Duty Yacht Varnish protects against cracking and peeling and ensures all-weather UV protection. To ensure maximum protection on new, bare, and untreated wood, first apply a suitable all-purpose wood preserver. The product will cover approximately 15 square metres per litre, depending on the nature and porosity of the timber, and is recoatable after 16-24 hours under normal drying conditions, with light sanding down recommended between coats.

Solvent Based

14-16 sqm/l

Safety Sheet

Ideal use with All Purpose Preserver .

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Outdoor Yacht Varnish

Johnstone’s Outdoor Yacht Varnish is a tough, marine quality high gloss varnish and is suitable for all exterior woodwork.

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FEATURES: Resists cracking and peeling Marine quality Durable

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Product attachments.

• Boiled to speed up drying time
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• Traditional wood treatment
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• Enhances the natural beauty of wood

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5 Secrets to Mirror Finish Varnished Teak.

Do you ever walk down the dock, gaze longingly at another boat’s varnished teak and wish yours looked similar?  Mirror finish teak isn’t hard.  But it does require a bit of dedication.  This week, we’re still in maintenance mode as we moved a grand total of 58 miles, to Bay Springs Lake and then on to Midway Marina in Fulton, Mississippi.  So it was teak time for Optimystique!

We decided our varnished teak was getting worn after almost a year continuously enjoying our Great Loop. For less than $250, one day of prep, then 1 hour for sanding and 2 hours daily for a coat of varnish, we’re well on our way to having glossy gorgeous varnish again.

There are 5 secrets to gorgeous teak.

• T he Prep – Sand with the grain only.
• Which Varnish?
• 2 Sealer Coats
• Varnish Only One Way With The Grain
• Multiple Coats of Varnish. I’ll elaborate below.

Luckily our teak only needed freshening, not a complete redo.  If you have significant spots where the bare teak has been exposed and mold (black spots) has started to infiltrate, you need more than just a refresh – read my day to day, step by step teak series here. (scroll down).

1. Scraping.   First all loose varnish had to be scraped off.  David accomplished this in a couple hours using a varnish/paint scraper.  Be careful not to gouge the wood.

2. Sanding.   Oh the sanding … not my favorite part.  But it took a little more than half a day to finish, so not overly onerous.  We started sanding with my little Black & Decker Mouse sander with 80 grit (which is a bit too course, but it was what we had aboard – ideally I would have used 120 grit).

The 80 grit sandpaper evened out some of the ridges and cleaned out the “bad spots” that David has previously scraped.  NOTE: On Optimystique, our teak has some deep ridges from where a previous owner left the teak bare and over 10 years, the softer wood began wearing away.  My guess is that owner cleaned the bare wood with something too harsh, causing the ridging.  So there’s no way my teak will be perfect unless we start over and sand all those ridges away.  So we’ll go with almost perfect instead.

The KEY TO SANDING is to ONLY SAND WITH THE GRAIN  – Note which direction the grain is running ONLY SAND THAT WAY.

3. 220 Grit Sanding … this time with 220 grit – a bit finer – and still using the Black & Decker Mouse Sander. Again, all the way around.

4. Clean Up and Blue Tape.   We usually hose off the boat to get the sanding dust off at this point. When it’s dry, we Blue Tape everything where we don’t want varnish to be.

5. “Get Your Smooth On” (Thanks, Doug for reminding me!) 3rd sanding.  400 grit sandpaper… this time hand sanding. In the past, we’ve done this step with 390 grit on my mouse sander, but we didn’t have any, so we hand sanded with 400 grit.  Then more clean up to get rid of all the dust in preparation for the first sealer coat of varnish.

6.  Get Rid of Dark Spots. If we were redoing the teak for real, this would be the time for Snappy Teak – a 2 part teak cleaner that gets rid of ALL the grime and mold. (NOTE:  There are many supposed teak cleaners, but our friend, Rodney, The Varnish Artist, that taught us how to do teak says the only one that really works is Snappy Teak). But since we’re only doing a repair job, I simply wiped the teak down with bleach on a rag and let it dry in the sun. This only works if the teak is reasonably free of dark mold spots.

8.  Varnish Selection .  Yes, the type of varnish you use IS important.  Our teak had been done previously with Pettit Captain’s Varnish.  And although it looked good, the first thing I noticed when we started applying my favorite, Pettit Flagship Varnish 2015 is that it was MUCH glossier and shinier.  And isn’t glossy what we’re after with varnish?

Another IMPORTANT SECRET!   The first TWO coats of varnish should be SEALER coats using a brushing thinner. Our choice is  Interlux 333 Brushing Thinner,  a proprietary brushing thinner with a slow drying  solvent  designed to ease  brushing  and facilitate the flow of varnish. Thinning the first two coats of varnish allows it to soak into the bare wood spots, sealing them against the weather.

9. Sealer Coat: Day 1 : Pick a nice day – preferably between 65-75 degrees and not overly humid. Beware of environmental conditions – one year our marina was next to a boatyard. To my dismay (and more than a few curse words), the boatyard was sanding and the wind was blowing grit our direction.

Pour about an inch of varnish into a clean shallow container.  Pour another half inch (or less) of Interlux 333 Brushing Thinner into the varnish and stir well.  Some like a 50/50 mix, I find that too runny to apply.  You can start with more varnish because I’ll need to refill at least twice, but I always figure the less varnish to clean up if I accidentally spill it.

Don’t skimp on the brush – you’ll end up with bristles in your shiny new varnish with a cheap brush. Ideal is badger hair, but they’re almost impossible to find.  Some china bristle brushes are OK – test them in the store by flexing the bristles & see how many fall out. Before you start, you may want to “de-shed” the brush to get rid of any loose bristles. While we’ve used foam brushes to touch up dings, we wouldn’t recommend them for a full coat of varnish.   Here are a couple brush choices I liked .

Remember, THIN VARNISH will be very runny – on purpose to allow it to seal. Carry a paper towel or two with you to immediately wipe up drips. Go slow and remember to ONLY BRUSH ONE WAY – resist the temptation to brush back and forth – that defeats the shiny finish.

Cleaning the brush.  I’ve used various methods, some more successful than others.  This time, we cleaned the brush with Brush Cleaner from the local hardware store.  After the brush cleaner, I suds the brush a couple of times with Dawn and water.  Be sure not to spread out the bristles too much, otherwise the brush will be too “splayed out” for the next coat.  Then I either let it dry in the sun or put it in aluminum foil to wait for the next day.

10.  Sealer Coat:  Day 2.   Allowing enough time for the varnish to cure before putting on another coat is also key to having glossy mirror finish varnish.  We always wait 24 hours even though the can says it should be ready before that.  Before starting, the varnish must be very lightly sanded with 400 grit sandpaper. All you’re doing is roughing up the exterior enough to allow the varnish to adhere. Wipe down and tack cloth. Other than that, Day 2 is a repeat of Day 1 – only brush ONE WAY!

11.  Finally REAL VARNISH!   Important to realize that when the pros talk about 10 coats of varnish, they never include the 2 sealer coats.  Discouraging, I know, but the number of coats is AFTER the sealer coats.  Hand sand lightly again with 400 grit, wipe down & tack cloth.  Then apply the real varnish.  Remember to spread it thin or it will “alligator” – thick varnish congeals into spots that look like alligator hide – which is to be avoided at all costs.  If you do get alligators, they must be sanded out before the next coat can be applied.

Brush only ONE WAY! Put on a single coat.

12.  How Many Coats?   10 is ideal.  If, you’re in a hurry, you can get by with less, just remember that less coats means the sooner it will need maintenance coats because UV burns off varnish. Remember, one coat per day – so if you want 10 coats, it will take 1 sanding hour & 2 varnish hours a day for 10 days for a boat like ours – 40 feet.

13.  Maintenance Coats.   UV burns off varnish. If you have 10 coats, sometimes you can get away with doing a couple maintenance coats a year depending on the climate.  We always do 2 maintenance coats every 6-9 months to keep ahead.

One note:  In the past, we’ve used Cetol Natural and other products advertised as lower maintenance than varnish.  What we found was to keep any finish looking good, it still requires maintenance coats – usually 2 every 6 – 9 months.  We finally decided if we were doing all that work anyway for Cetol (which will never look as good as varnish), why not try the real thing.  That’s when we switched from Cetol to varnish and never looked back.

Now, enjoy your beautiful varnish every time you step aboard.  And smile and accept the compliments when others walking down the dock comment on how nice your varnish looks.  🙂

Did I forget anything?  Please leave a comment and add to the discussion!  Cheers!  Jan

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excellent as always…thank you for the thorough content… blessings scott

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Clear Yacht Varnish Spray Paint All Purpose 250ml

£ 2.59 £ 2.33

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General purpose white primer spray paint 250ml, clear varnish spray paint gloss all purpose 400ml.

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Clear Yacht Varnish All Purpose 250ml.

This Clear Yacht Varnish from Rapide will renovate and transform your furniture. With a classic, smooth touch, Gloss finish, it brings a new lease of life to tired, worn-out objects.

Please note – As this is ‘Yacht’ Varnish, it will dry with a reddish tint.

Furthermore, this Varnish furniture spray paint has been specially designed to give a stunning finish to furniture around your home. Simply apply and leave for 16 hours to dry – a great way to revamp your home, all the while keeping costs down. Covers 2m² per litre on average.

In addition – Surface preparation: For best results, ensure surface is clean, dry & free from loose paint, mould & mildew, wax or oil. If wax has been used, clean the surface thoroughly with white spirit. We recommend that bare wood should be sanded before painting. Hard glossy surfaces should be abraded before painting. Cover surrounding areas to protect from spray mist.

Also – You can apply this to a multitude of other surfaces such as Metal, Wood, Plastic and even Glass with the correct preparation.

Finally, check out more points below for Clear Yacht Varnish Spray Paint All Purpose 250ml –

• Location of application – Interior & Exterior
• For use on – Furniture, Metal, Wood, Plastic, Glass and more
• Coverage – 2m² per litre
• Drying time – 16 hours
• Recoat time – 4 hours
• Touch dry time – 1 hour
• Paint/Stain/Varnish base – Solvent-based
• VOC description – Very high
• Highly concentrated

Since spray painting comes with certain words and phrases that you may not fully understand, we have created this Terminology Guide that can assist you.

For help on spray painting, check out this Guide . Or click here for Inspiration .

If you have a question about this product, please get in touch and let us help you.

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• Classic and Wooden Boats

I love the smell of varnish in the morning.....

• Thread starter Romeo
• Start date 9 Mar 2017

Well-known member

Good morning.I have finished all the prep on our clinker rowing boat. Next step will be to slap on the varnish. As usual we will be going for a working boat finish, not a concours finish. This boat sits on a mooring at the back of a very full harbour, with a bit of bump and grind being inevitable.So, for those of you who use actual varnish on your wooden boats, what brand do you use and why? I have half a tin of Hempel Classic left, but my pal is banging on about how lovely Coovar sea plane varnish is.  

Epifanes Rapidcoat. A decent looking, durable finish with ease of application and maintenance. :encouragement:  

Hempels Dura-Gloss.  

Always used to use Blue Peter 'Original' but have started to use this from Premier on the Redwing's hull:- https://www.premiermarinepaints.co.uk/buy/premier-classic-yacht-boat-varnish/31  

Active member

http://www.arthurbeale.co.uk/  

International Woodskin perhaps? I've been using it this past year or two. It gives a good, if not concours, finish, is easy to apply and easy to touch up if damaged. I've used Coovar "Yacht and Seaplane"varnish, seems fine but not exceptional. Favourite varnish at the moment is Flag quick drying satin floor varnish but I've only used it in doors, may not be suitable in the open.  

• 10 Mar 2017

sideshowbob

Teamac 'Teamalak' Yacht varnish which you can buy from your local agricultural suppliers. If not we have also used Epifanes with excellent results  

Humbly I would suggest that everyone has their favourites. I use something ordinary, for example International Original. Why? Because I know how it handles and what to expect. I am sure there are better varnishes but the quality of a finish is really down to preparation of the surface, absence of dust, thinning of coats and methods of application. It is all a bit bonkers, we spend ages producing wonderful varnished finishes on our boats and then mistreat them in a truly awful environment. Life is to short to get hung up on it all!  

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Spraying varnishes: Instructions & tips

Whether it be wood, metal or other surfaces: varnishes are suitable for a range of applications and great for sealing tasks. The easiest way to apply lacquer paints is to spray them on directly. Learn here how best to proceed when spraying varnish, what you should look out for, why it's worth spraying varnishes and what the best equipment is for it.

What are varnishes?

Varnishes are made up of volatile solvents and aqueous materials . Varnish is based on a solvent and binding agent . The solvent evaporates during the drying process and leaves behind the non-volatile components as a solid film. The binding agent ensures that all components combine to form a homogeneous mixture , guarantees bubble-free drying and is also responsible for the shine after drying. Other, non-volatile components include pigments, oils, resins, fillers and additives . The pigments provide the colour while resins are important for the varnish's adhesion to the base and producing a glossy finish. Often, calcium carbonate, barium sulphate or kaolin are used as fillers and help to adjust the degree of shine and surface structure, as well as acting as pigments providing colour. Additives are auxiliary ingredients that are added for specific extra functions. These might be biocides, for example, which prevent the formation of micro-organisms and therefore give the varnish a longer shelf life.

There are three main tasks that a varnish should accomplish:

A coating of varnish protects surfaces from the effects of weather, stress and other external influences.

The varnish beautifies the surface with colour and shine.

With certain varnishes, a surface can be given specific properties. Electrical insulating varnish, for example, changes the surface's electrical conductivity.

Various compositions mean that there is a varnish available for every purpose. Effect varnishes are ideal for decorative elements, while clear varnishes are good for colourless sealing. Piano lacquers , on the other hand, produce a particularly smooth and glossy finish. In the industrial sector, the most well-known varnishes are car varnishes , which protect the panels from corrosion.

What advantages do varnishes offer?

• Varnishes are low-viscosity materials. This means they are generally easy to work with.
• Varnishes can be used in an incredible number of ways thanks to their many different compositions.
• With one varnish you can give surfaces brilliant protection against stress , corrosion and other influences .
• With others, you can even influence how an object works .
• Varnishes stick to smooth surfaces such as metal, but also to rough surfaces such as wood.

By viewing the video you agree that your data will be transmitted to YouTube and that you have read the privacy policy .

Painting vs. spraying varnishes

Especially with varnishes that are intended to offer protection, even and seamless application is essential. You would want an even result with decorative varnishes, too. When varnishing with a brush or roller, however, the object's own structure is also spread around - everyone is familiar with the little notches in the varnish caused by brush hairs . To achieve a smooth, glossy layer, spray systems are ideal because they guarantee even application . The atomised droplets of varnish also effortlessly reach every corner, ensuring that even hard-to-reach parts are sealed cleanly.

Spraying varnish saves you time and effort and even, full coverage is guaranteed. With WAGNER paint spray systems, the spray mist is minimal and you can therefore work fatiguefree - and many users find it great fun. Further advantages of spraying can be found here in our FAQs.

Instructions: how to spray varnishes with our paint spray systems

Have you decided to spray varnishes with the WAGNER paint spray systems ? With the following 5 steps , ensure that you are applying the varnish perfectly.

Step 1: Personal safety and object preparation

When working with varnishes and glazes especially, it is important to wear protective clothing - so safety goggles and a face mask . On untreated surfaces , wipe any dust or dirt off using a cloth . On objects that have already been treated , take some sandpaper and roughen up the surface well. The varnish can only stick onto a well-prepared surface. Otherwise, you risk the varnish peeling off quickly and the object not being protected properly.

Also think about your surroundings (such as the floor or furniture) and cover them with a dust sheet or conventional cling film.

Step 2: Dilute the varnish

Varnishes can be diluted by up to 10% before they are sprayed in order to achieve as even coverage as possible. Simply use the stirring rod included in the scope of delivery. It has notches on one side, with each notch representing 10%. So pour the varnish into the spray unit's varnish container and place the stirring rod in it. You can now see which notch the varnish reaches up to. Simply add water up to the next notch and stir well.

Tip: Paints and varnishes are easier to work with at room temperature. If necessary, you can easily dilute your varnish with warm water.

Step 3: Preparing and setting the device

You need to set your device differently, depending on the spray system. On HVLP devices, the parameters to be adjusted are the air flow and the volume of material , while on airless devices it is the pressure level .

If you are spraying varnish for the first time, we recommend starting with a low volume of material and increasing the amount as you become more practised. Test your settings beforehand using the test poster supplied or using a piece of cardboard.

Step 4: Spray the varnish

It is important to maintain an even distance from the surface at all times. With HVLP spray systems, this distance is 5 - 10 cm , while with airless devices it is 25 - 30 cm . Hold the device at an angle of 90 degrees to the object and ensure that you do not make any swivel movements in the process. Do not activate the trigger guard until after you have started your movement and release it before the end of the movement. This will avoid excess varnish application at the spray points at the beginning and end.

On larger surfaces, we recommend using a cross-wise pattern . Cross-wise is a painting and varnishing technique in which you first spray on a horizontal layer, then a vertical layer.

Step 5: Cleaning the unit

The HVLP paint spray systems can be conveniently dismantled and the varnishes removed and cleaned using a warm and suitable cleaning product , such as water or a solvent. This is very simple with airless devices. Simply plug the varnish intake hose and the return pipe hose into the container with cleaning fluid and allow the pump to run. The device then cleans itself. Here too, you can easily remove and clean the suction system , nozzle and gun filter . Further information on cleaning WAGNER paint spray systems can be found here for airless sprayer and here for HVLP sprayer.

Tip: Ideally, clean your device immediately after using it because varnish is easiest to remove when it is still fluid.

Which paint spray system for varnishes?

At WAGNER, we have two different types of device for spraying varnish: the " High Volume Low Pressure " (HVLP) spray units and the airless spray units. Both are ideal for spraying varnishes.

Spraying varnishes with our HVLP paint spray systems

Our HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) devices are designed for low-pressure spraying . With a high volume of air and low air pressure , the varnishes are atomised by the air as they exit the nozzle. The low material pressure means that the material droplets are slightly larger and the spray mist is significantly reduced as a result. We recommend the following HVLP spray units for spraying varnishes: 

Wood&Metal Sprayer W 100

Wood&Metal Sprayer W 150

Universal Sprayer W 575 FLEXiO

Universal Sprayer W 590 FLEXiO

Universal Sprayer W 690 FLEXiO

Universal Sprayer W 950 FLEXiO

Spraying varnishes with our airless devices.

With airless devices, the varnish is not atomised by the air, but rather simply by the material pressure . The material is broken up in a spray jet. The airless spray devices are especially useful for craftsmen and enthusiastic DIY-ers undertaking larger renovation projects . This means you can varnish fences , garage doors or car ports perfectly, for example. We recommend the following airless devices if want to apply varnish regularly or in large quantities:

Airless Sprayer Control 150 M

Airless Sprayer Control Pro 250 M

Airless Sprayer Control Pro 350 M

Airless Sprayer Control Pro 250 R

Airless Sprayer Control Pro 350 R

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Ronseal exterior yacht varnish satin - 1l.

• KA$H DISCOUNT (142946)
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Item 1 ronseal exterior long lasting yacht varnish satin gloss finishes all sizes ronseal exterior long lasting yacht varnish satin gloss finishes all sizes, item 2 ronseal yacht varnish satin or gloss 250ml, 500ml, 1litre, 2.5 litre ronseal yacht varnish satin or gloss 250ml, 500ml, 1litre, 2.5 litre, item 3 ronseal satin finish yacht varnish clear 1ltr 30244 ronseal satin finish yacht varnish clear 1ltr 30244, item 4 ronseal yacht varnish exterior long lasting - all sizes ronseal yacht varnish exterior long lasting - all sizes, item 5 ronseal yacht varnish - 250ml, 500ml, 1l & 2.5l - gloss/satin - solvent based ronseal yacht varnish - 250ml, 500ml, 1l & 2.5l - gloss/satin - solvent based, item 6 ronseal exterior yacht wood varnish - gloss or satin - all sizes ronseal exterior yacht wood varnish - gloss or satin - all sizes, item 7 ronseal exterior yacht varnish satin 1 litre rslyvs1l ronseal exterior yacht varnish satin 1 litre rslyvs1l, about this product, product identifiers.

• Brand Ronseal
• GTIN 5010214802449
• UPC 5010214802449
• eBay Product ID (ePID) 1851149330

Product Key Features

• Suitable For Yacht, Exterior, Professional high quality varnish
• Application Method Wax - Varnish - Polish - Oil & Dyes
• Drying Time 4 hr
• Container Size 1 L
• Colour Clear
• Number in Pack 1
• Features Long-Lasting
• Sheen Satin
• Weight 1022g

Additional Product Features

• Unit Quantity 1

Ratings and reviews

Would recommend

Good quality

Most relevant reviews

We have just had some drive gates fitted,and we did not want to put a coloured varnish on . The colour was perfect.It gave what i would call a hint of colour and brought the grain off the wood out more.The finished sheen was excellent

Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New

Buy it while you still can.

Far better than the water based stuff. Easy to use and gives great results. Waterproof and durable. I have used this before and will do so again. Hope if can still get it in the future.

Ronseal is a reliable make and yacht varnish is the best quality for outside protection of wood or metal. I have every confidence it will do it's job well.

nice finish - easy to apply

nice finish. Easy to apply.

It's advertised as satin...it's definitely not. It also has a dark tinge to it, so darkens the wood. I ended up using Danish oil and never disappointed.

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Ronseal rslocfltbo5l one coat fence life tudor, black oak, 5 litre 5, ronseal one coat fence life 5l medium oak, white gloss non-drip paint 180 ml top coat painting decorating indoor outdoor, yacht varnish gloss finish 151 tin weatherproof 180ml, ronseal fence life plus+ warm stone 5 litre, you may also like.

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Perfect Finish Interior Varnish

Varnish your interior wood in next to no time at all and give it diamond hard protection. Easy to use, dries in just 20 minutes and will protect your wood while making it look great too.

• Diamond hard protection with a great finish
• Ideal for hard to reach places
• Covers up to 24m2
• Great for doors, skirting boards, tables and furniture
• Comes with a Perfect Finish pad for easy application
• Dries in only 20 minutes
• Diamond hard protection
• Dry in only 20 minutes
• Resistant to knocks and scuffs

How much varnish do I need?

Measure your area precisely, drop the numbers into this smart calculator and it will tell you straight away how many litres you'll need to complete your project.

Antique Pine

Need to know

Completes the job up to 5 times faster and gives the toughest protection to keep your wood healthier for longer.

Got an awkward patch to varnish? Hard to reach places are no more with our easy applicator.

2 to 3 coats for the best finish

Paints up to 24m2 per litre

Perfect Finish Pad

Interior wood excluding flooring

How to use perfect finish interior varnish

This varnish is perfect for interior wood but not floors. If you’d like to varnish your floor, our Perfect Finish Diamond Hard Floor Varnish will do the job. It’s also not suitable for painted wood – you’ll have to remove that paint before you begin varnishing.

Before you start

Make sure your room is warm and well ventilated. Open a door or window if you need to and don’t forget to wear a mask when you’re sanding wood!

How to prepare wood for varnishing

• Use white spirit and a cloth to wipe down your surfaces and remove any oil, grease and wax.
• Give the surface a quick sand using 120 grit sandpaper to remove any rough patches. If your wood was previously painted or varnished, sand away any flaking or peeling bits.
• Let the dust settle and wipe it away with a damp cloth.
• Leave the wood to dry.

Application

• Assemble the pad as instructed on the lid.
• Give the varnish a good stir to ensure the consistency is nice and smooth.
• Load up your pad with varnish and remove the excess by wiping it on the side of the tub.
• Apply an even layer of varnish going in the direction of the woodgrain.
• Wait one hour for the first coat to dry before applying a second.
• If you’re happy with how it looks after two coats, you can stop there. Otherwise wait an hour and apply the third.
• Before you apply your final coat, give the wood a quick sand and wipe down the dust down with a damp cloth. This will give you a really good final finish.

Once your varnish is dry, you can look after your wood as normal. The application pad can just be cleaned in warm soapy water.

Our diamond hard protection means that your wood can withstand everyday knocks, scuffs and scratches so it’s unlikely you’ll have to repair it.

But if you do notice a damaged section of your varnish, don’t worry, it’s easy to fix. Simply sand down the section that needs repairing and add a couple of coats of the varnish, following the same steps we’ve talked about above.

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• How to prep your interior wood
• How to protect your wood with interior varnish

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Wallpaper Installers in Elektrostal'

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