pond yacht model yacht rigging diagrams

A Pond Yacht Restoration

I am restoring a pond yacht, built by my grandfather , James Melville and a Mr. Ingram in Tayport, Scotland, in the early 1930s. The hull is 55 inches long x 13 inches at it's widest point ( beam ). The mast is 62 inches tall and the boom is 33 inches long. She weighs 26lb. The measurements and weight and classic lines are consistent with a classic 6 Metre yacht design, popular with model yacht builders in the 1930s.

Monday 30 March 2015

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Off and running with the schooner rigged pond yacht

By Elmina May 21, 2022 in Masting, rigging and sails

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Hello all , I’m off and running with the standing rigging on my massive vintage schooner with the name Elmina . I just had to jump in and start tying , please don’t zoom in , I’m new at this and often get comments about the size of my hands. They look more suited for concrete work . I’ve also started painting the decks before I get too far along on rigging.  I will soon be thinking about running rigging. I know this isn’t a pond yacht forum but I have gotten great advise on this site.  I not so much on the pond yacht forums I’ve visited.  can anyone tell me good resources for diagrams , photos etc. I originally thought my model was missing a ships wheel and helm. But I’m now thinking the threaded shaft from the rudder was for some type of mechanisim for the pond yacht steering. Any advice would be helpful. Unfortunately I don’t have a Handel on the pond yacht operation and do not intend to add sails. But I would like it rigged properly.  I have a diagram and photos of existing connections etc. I have to refine my diagram , it’s so crude I can not even understand it. I will continue to post photos and questions on this thread. Thanks again to all 

• mtaylor , Dave_E , John Ruy and 3 others

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Keith Black

 Mike, are you sure you want to paint the deck? The deck and cabin house tops are a very nice natural matching color that is a great contrast to the hull and cabin sides and rails. IMHO you're doing more damage than good as you'll lose detail if you paint plus it's not original to the model. My advise for what it's worth, lightly sand and varnish. 

 From what I can see in the photos you've done a nice job on the rigging.

Current Builds:  Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                            Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

Completed: Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

5 hours ago, Keith Black said:  Mike, are you sure you want to paint the deck? The deck and cabin house tops are a very nice natural matching color that is a great contrast to the hull and cabin sides and rails. IMHO you're doing more damage than good as you'll lose detail if you paint plus it's not original to the model. My advise for what it's worth, lightly sand and varnish.     From what I can see in the photos you've done a nice job on the rigging.

Thank you Keith. I tried to clean up the decks and cabin roofs. I just could not. The paint I am using is very close to original. I am trying to keep things as original as possible but the decks really needed something. I have attached a before and after photo of a cabin roof 

Roger Pellett

A lovely looking pond yacht, Mike.  If you can give us a photo of the remaining parts of the steering gear, I'm sure someone here will be able to help you with an appropriate replacement.

Mike, I respect your ownership but you're just the current caretaker and as such you have certain responsibilities to the past and to the future. I'm going to be critical but for no reason other than trying to be helpful. There's an old expression in restoration, "it's only original once". Over restoration diminishes the value more often times than not. 

You can make this model look brand new, no doubt. But it's not a new model, it's an old model with hard earned patina which is what collectors and historians want to see. They want to see the warts. 

 Example, the port running light. You've cleaned the brass around the lens and made it shiny new looking. and painted the light board a bright red. It sticks out like a sore thumb. it looks different than every other piece of brass on the model. For the sake of continuity I take it that your plan is to clean every brass piece. That plus paint and you'll have a model that looks new but worth half (maybe less) what it was worth with its original finish. 

 As I said, it's your model. 

4 minutes ago, Keith Black said: Mike, I respect your ownership but you're just the current caretaker and as such you have certain responsibilities to the past and to the future. I'm going to be critical but for no reason other than trying to be helpful. There's an old expression in restoration, "it's only original once". Over restoration diminishes the value more often times than not.    You can make this model look brand new, no doubt. But it's not a new model, it's an old model with hard earned patina which is what collectors and historians want to see. They want to see the warts.     Example, the port running light. You've cleaned the brass around the lens and made it shiny new looking. and painted the light board a bright red. It sticks out like a sore thumb. it looks different than every other piece of brass on the model. For the sake of continuity I take it that your plan is to clean every brass piece. That plus paint and you'll have a model that looks new but worth half (maybe less) what it was worth with its original finish.     As I said, it's your model. 

You are correct. I am going to put the port lite back to original and only paint the remainder deck. Thank you 

• Peanut6 and Keith Black

2 hours ago, Jim Lad said: A lovely looking pond yacht, Mike.  If you can give us a photo of the remaining parts of the steering gear, I'm sure someone here will be able to help you with an appropriate replacement.   John

Thank you very much John. I will get that posted this week

1 hour ago, Keith Black said: Mike, I respect your ownership but you're just the current caretaker and as such you have certain responsibilities to the past and to the future. I'm going to be critical but for no reason other than trying to be helpful. There's an old expression in restoration, "it's only original once". Over restoration diminishes the value more often times than not.    You can make this model look brand new, no doubt. But it's not a new model, it's an old model with hard earned patina which is what collectors and historians want to see. They want to see the warts.     Example, the port running light. You've cleaned the brass around the lens and made it shiny new looking. and painted the light board a bright red. It sticks out like a sore thumb. it looks different than every other piece of brass on the model. For the sake of continuity I take it that your plan is to clean every brass piece. That plus paint and you'll have a model that looks new but worth half (maybe less) what it was worth with its original finish.     As I said, it's your model. 

• Keith Black , Peanut6 , druxey and 1 other

 Mike, the running light looks perfect. I agree, painting the tufted seats would be a mistake but finding something to stabilize the material would be a good thing if such a product exist. The port side seat's fore corner is a bit tatty but both seats look ever so much better since cleaned. I think you're going to win me over with the painted deck and cabin tops as long as you continue to keep tight paint lines. 

 Restoration is not an easy task, not the work as much as is making decisions on when enough is enough. Keep up the good work. 

• druxey , mtaylor and Peanut6

17 hours ago, Keith Black said:  Mike, the running light looks perfect. I agree, painting the tufted seats would be a mistake but finding something to stabilize the material would be a good thing if such a product exist. The port side seat's fore corner is a bit tatty but both seats look ever so much better since cleaned. I think you're going to win me over with the painted deck and cabin tops as long as you're able to keep tight paint lines.     Restoration is not an easy task, not the work as much as is making decisions on when enough is enough. Keep up the good work. 

I was once told that every artist (and yes, we are artists here) needs to 2 things..... a critic and gun.  The critic for advise and feedback and the gun for the critic to use on the artist when he/she says "it's done... enough.".  

Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build:                                                                                              Past Builds:   La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans  - ON HOLD            Tri ton Cross-Section    

  NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                             HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64                

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                           On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                      Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0  (Abandoned)           

Nothing around the rudder head for you to go on, Mike.  Is the rudder a really tight fit  i.e. is it stiff to turn?  If that is the case, then that was probably the original method of rudder control - simply turn the rudder to whatever angle was required and its stiffness would keep it there.  There would have originally been a tiller fitted to the rudder head.

If the rudder is not tight in its casing then I don't know what the original method of control would have been, as there's no sign of fittings or their attachments around the rudder head.  If that's the case, then you have several options, which we can help you with.

• mtaylor and Keith Black

I know very little about pond boats/yachts but in what images I've seen I never saw where a ships wheel was employed. Mike, is there a spot on the deck to mark where a ship's wheel would have been? If not there's a good chance there never was a ship's wheel. That doesn't mean one couldn't be added for visual interest. 

• mtaylor and Peanut6

Steering gear could have run the gamut from a toothed rack on the deck to allow the rudder to be set at various fixed settings, to lines rigged from the tiller to various sails, to wind vane or even clockwork steering mechanisms.  All of these would work with a tiller, not a steering wheel.  Refer to pond yacht websites for details.

• Keith Black , mtaylor and Peanut6

Hello , can anyone tell me the intended purpose and or how they should be rigged?  the horseshoe shaped pieces go around the mast base . There are several small baits with remnants of lines and also some coiled up lines hung from them.

I was told they may prevent fire from reaching the masts but really not sure what they are and how I should rig them . Thank you. 

• mtaylor , Peanut6 , Keith Black and 1 other

Those are called Fife Rails.  They have nothing to do with “Fire,” the incendiary kind or otherwise.  They are simply there for belaying running rigging lines leading  downward from the masts.  On a real ship there would have been holes where the wires are sticking up.  Removable belaying pins would have been fitted into the holes.  In your case, the model maker substituted pieces of wire for the specially shaped belaying pins.  The belaying pin was an ingenious but simple invention.  It allowed the middle  of a line to be secured with a secure but easily released hitch.  

• Reggiemon , mtaylor , Peanut6 and 2 others

The horseshoe shaped pieces are belaying pin rails. (the nails shown would be the belaying pins)

They were positioned around the masts like the one shown in your last picture.

They were used to anchor numerous sail handling lines. Sail halyards, Gaff halyard, topping lifts, etc.

• Peanut6 , mtaylor and Keith Black

Building: 1/10 scale 1922 Alden Malabar ll R/C

Finished:  Rappahannock Boat Works Torpedo stern, steam launch. R/C  1/6 scale steam launch ,  Corel Flying Fish 1860

Mike, see the attached. Were I you this is where I would deviate from the original model. Instead of using the original nails as belaying pins, I'd carefully remove the nails and drill larger holes to accept belaying pins. Don't remove the three nails that hole to rail to the post. From your third image it looks like that would be ten belaying pins? I don't know if there are off the shelf belaying pins available in the size required. I real life pins were normally 16 to 18 inches in length with the handle being a third the overall length. 

• druxey , Peanut6 and mtaylor

22 hours ago, Roger Pellett said: Those are called Fife Rails.  They have nothing to do with “Fire,” the incendiary kind or otherwise.  They are simply there for belaying running rigging lines leading  downward from the masts.  On a real ship there would have been holes where the wires are sticking up.  Removable belaying pins would have been fitted into the holes.  In your case, the model maker substituted pieces of wire for the specially shaped belaying pins.  The belaying pin was an ingenious but simple invention.  It allowed the middle  of a line to be secured with a secure but easily released hitch.     Roger

Thank you Roger

• Peanut6 , Keith Black and mtaylor

21 hours ago, Reggiemon said: The horseshoe shaped pieces are belaying pin rails. (the nails shown would be the belaying pins) They were positioned around the masts like the one shown in your last picture. They were used to anchor numerous sail handling lines. Sail halyards, Gaff halyard, topping lifts, etc.

20 hours ago, Keith Black said: Mike, see the attached. Were I you this is where I would deviate from the original model. Instead of using the original nails as belaying pins, I'd carefully remove the nails and drill larger holes to accept belaying pins. Don't remove the three nails that hole to rail to the post. From your third image it looks like that would be ten belaying pins? I don't know if there are off the shelf belaying pins available in the size required. I real life pins were normally 16 to 18 inches in length with the handle being a third the overall length. 

Thank you that’s a great idea. I thought the small brass nails were odd . I think cleaned up with some belaying pins would make a world of difference. Thanks again 

• druxey , mtaylor , Keith Black and 1 other

 Mike, the length of the belaying pins will be determined by the post height. What is that measurement? 

Belaying plans (where the rigging tied off on deck) are rarely found for ships because everyone knew how to do it and didn't need a plan.

The fore-and-aft schooner rig was pretty simple (compared to a square rigged ship). Normally there would be pin rails along the bulwarks along the sides of the hull (but your model doesn't have bulwarks) and the fife rails at the base of the masts. Lines could also belay to ring bolts in the deck at the base of the masts and along bulwarks and cleats near the bottom of the masts and on the bulwarks.

The general rules for belaying the running rigging were:

1. Lines from lower on the mast would go to the more forward belaying points and lines from higher on the mast would go to belaying points  more aft on the rails. This makes sense because masts often had rakes leaning aft so the origins for lines higher on the mast would be more aft than those lower down.

A few vessels had forward raking fore masts so the rule would be reversed in this case.

2. Lines originating on or close to the masts led down to the base of the mast, and lines originating nearer the ends of spars (square rigged) would lead down to  pin rails, cleats or ring bolts on or near the bulwarks. On some vessels lines from the higher parts on the masts were belayed to points on the bulwarks or along the sides of the deck.

3. Lines must run free without touching other lines (or anything else). If ropes rubbed against something they would chafe and this could lead to the line parting. At sea the ship pitched and rolled and everything aloft was in motion. Even in port the winds and tides caused the ship to move. If a line rubbed against anything else it would cause wear on the line and whatever it touched - even a sail. Where lines must touch something else they were wrapped in chafing gear (wraps of canvas and/or rope) that was supposed to take the wear.

The idea behind these rules was to prevent lines from crossing and getting tangled with one another.

Since there is no original belaying plan for your model you can rig it just about any way you want. Keep these rules in mind and you can't go wrong in rigging the model.

• Peanut6 , mtaylor , tkay11 and 1 other

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Mike,  Just a heads up.  99% of belaying pins supplied by kit manufacturers are awful and I don’t know who makes the other 1%.  They are usually way over scale and shaped more like bowling pins than belaying pins.

if you can find accurately shaped belaying pins large enough for this model or if you have the ability to turn your own, great.  Otherwise, some brass rod, cut to length with the top end rounded off may be the best choice.

• mtaylor , Peanut6 and Keith Black

Mike, this is a link to Cornwall Model Boats a supplier out of the UK. This will give you a sense of what's available off the shelf. Once again, it's determining what size pin is required. 

  https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?page=search&SS=belay+pin&PR=-1&TB=O&ACTION=Go!

They must be the other 1%.  Their belaying pins look much better than most.

2 hours ago, Roger Pellett said: Their belaying pins look much better than most.

 Roger, Cornwall is pretty darn good supplier. i wish they had a US presence because with their min purchase amount and shipping cost from the UK, it  makes it cost prohibitive for a small order. 

• Roger Pellett and mtaylor

On 5/26/2022 at 12:05 PM, Keith Black said:  Mike, the length of the belaying pins will be determined by the post height. What is that measurement? 

Hi Keith , the posts stand 1 inch off the deck , the top rail is 1/4 inch , so 1-1/4” total off the deck.  Thank you 

• Keith Black and mtaylor

9 minutes ago, Elmina said: Hi Keith , the posts stand 1 inch off the deck , the top rail is 1/4 inch , so 1-1/4” total off the deck.  Thank you 

I see they have many choices. Wood , brass etc. I’ll have to determine the best fit for the scale I’m dealing with . Thank you 

• mtaylor , Keith Black and Peanut6

 Mike, the largest size belaying pin Cornwall offers is 18mm = .71 inches. One third being handle = .237 inches, stem = .4733 inches -.250 inches for the rail leaves .223 inches of stem exposed below the rail leaving .750 inches between the end of the stem and the deck. 18mm in length is bare minimum and a maximum of 28mm, IMHO. A 28mm pin would have a handle length of .367 inches with .735 inches of stem - .250 inch rail = .485 inches of exposed stem below the rail leaving a clearance between stem end and deck of .515 inches. 

 What needs to be taken into account is the size you're using for the running line or any line that's going to be belayed at the rail. Two turns of line around the pin with enough room left on the handle to hang coiled line is optimum, IMHO. See attached photo.

 Below is the best looking 18mm pin offered by Cornwall. If you need larger than 18mm you'll have to turn them yourself or have them turned.

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=pin belaying 18mm&PN=32703-Belaying-Pin-Walnut-18mm--Pack-of-10--32703.html#SID=92

• mtaylor , GrandpaPhil and Keith Black

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Rigging tips for building a model ship.

• Updated on: 25th January 2021
• Written by Gary Renshaw

Introduction

Rigging is a significant part of the process of building a model ship. It can be tedious and time-consuming however putting the effort in adds to the beauty of your finished model.

In general, the instructions on rigging provided by the manufacturers of model ship kits are fairly sparse. Whilst there are several specialised and very detailed books on masting and rigging, they are more concerned with matters of historical and technical accuracy than with the sort of advice that might help the beginner to understand the best way of going about what might appear to be quite a daunting task.

Highly recommended is a 3 DVD set available from Modellers Shipyard on  Masting and Rigging . This is a comprehensive set which shows all aspects of preparing the masts, spars and yards and the rigging for a period model. For further information call our office or visit our website.

We do strongly recommend “Ship Modelling Simplified” by Mastini – it contains excellent advice on ship modelling in general and has a good section on rigging. Modeller’s Shipyard has produced the following information as an introduction to the Rigging of a model ship. The following points should be noted:

• This is a general guide only and is to be used in conjunction with any instructions and plans provided by the kit manufacturer. In particular, it must be emphasised that any illustrations used in this leaflet are purely for the purpose of example and may not relate to your specific model.
• The approaches described are not the only way of doing things and the order in which the various processes are carried out may be varied, within reason, to suit the individual modeller.

Building a model ship is as much an exercise in using the mind as it is in using your fingers and hands. In this small leaflet, we can’t hope to cover all the problems and queries that may be encountered in the construction of your model. It is necessary to spend as much time thinking about the task at hand as actually doing it. If having thought about it, you still have a problem then contact us. We’ll either be able to advise you ourselves or refer you another modeller in your area who’ll be happy to help you with “hands-on” assistance.

TYPES OF RIGGING

The rigging of a ship can be divided into two main parts:

•  “Standing” or “Fixed” rigging, which is used to support the Masts and Bowsprit.
•  “Running” rigging, which is used to manipulate spars and sails.

On an “actual” ship any Rigging which didn’t pass through a pulley block was coated with tar to help prevent it rotting. For this reason, standing rigging is often, although not always, black on ship models.

If you do want your standing rigging black, and black cord is not supplied in the kit then you can consider these options:

• You can purchase Black cord. 
• The use of black rigging “wax” gives a very authentic tarred look but it is difficult to do well.
• The cord supplied with the kit can be coloured using black dye or “Raven Oil” as used by leatherworkers/saddlers.
• Black felt-tipped “Texta” is an easy way to colour the cord.
• Black “Padawax” shoe colour is also very satisfactory.

When any liquid dye has been used it will be necessary to stretch the cord by hanging it on a clothesline, with weights, to prevent it going slack after installation on the model. It will also probably be necessary to use clear wax to eliminate any furry look in the cord.

STANDING RIGGING

This includes the rigging of the Stays, Backstay, Bowsprit and Gammoning. This is fairly straightforward and should present few difficulties. Work from the centre of the ship out and try to avoid difficult and confined spaces. A Rigging Tool presented in the Tools section of our Catalogue will be helpful when rigging. The various names for the standing rigging are presented below.

• Fore topmast stay
• Fore topgallant stay
• Flying-jib stay
• Fore royal stay
• Fore skysail stay 
• Main topmast stay
• Main topgallant stay
• Main royal stay
• Main skysail stay
•  Mizzen stay
• Mizzen topmast stay
• Mizzen topgallant stay
• Mizzen royal stay
•  Mizzen skysail stay
• Mizzen topmast backstay
• Mizzen royal backstay
• Mizzen skysail backstay
• Main topmast backstay
• Main topgallant backstay 
• Main royal backstay
• Main skysail backstay
• Fore topmast backstay
• Fore topgallant backstay
• Fore royal backstay
• Fore skysail backstay
• Bowsprit shrouds (bobstays)

Source:  “Ship Modeling Simplified” by Mastini Pages 143 –144

FITTING OF BLOCKS, EYE PINS & CLEATS

Before proceeding further fit all the eye pins and rigging blocks to the bowsprit, masts, yards, and deck – also to the insides of the bulwarks if required. Cleats may be required on the lower masts, deck or bulwarks. Pay particular attention to any area which will be relatively inaccessible once the shrouds and other standing rigging ropes are in place.

It is as well to drill out the holes in the blocks and deadeyes to facilitate the threading of the rigging cord when the time comes. 

For the most inaccessible blocks, insert a short piece of thin rigging cord through the hole and glue it to itself forming a loop. Later, when you wish to insert the permanent running rigging you cut the loop, glue the new cord to one end and pull it through the hole using the other end of the pilot cord. No awkward threading

DEADEYES (LOWER) AND CHAIN STRAPS/ DEADEYE STRAPS

In most models, the lower deadeyes are fitted into “deadeye loops” which are inserted into gaps in the outer edge of the “Channel”. Once the complete row of deadeyes are installed a capping strip is fixed along the front.

From the bottom of the deadeye loop either a straight ”Deadeye Strap” or a  “Chain Strap” goes to the side of the hull at a lower level. The style of this fitting will depend on the period to which the particular ship belongs and also the price/ quality of the ship being built.

There are several points to keep in mind when setting up these “deadeye assemblies”

The deadeye strap (or chain strap) is rarely, if ever, perpendicular. Rather, it should be at an angle which is an extension of the angle of the shroud which will eventually be attached to the deadeye above it. The diagram on the left of this page should make that mouthful clearer!!

 The lower deadeyes, the ones being attached at present, should be placed so that the three holes are positioned with the lowest one being the centre of the three. When at a later stage the upper deadeye is fitted, it is equally important that the centre hole is the highest of the three. Refer to the diagram on the right-hand side of this page.

These together with the “forestays” and “backstays” are the ropes that support the masts. Shrouds, which are the group of ropes to which the ratlines are attached, are made up in pairs with a deadeye at each end of a single rope.

First cut a piece of cord to an appropriate length and with the help of an alligator clip or a small clamp glue one end around a deadeye. This deadeye should then be temporarily connected to the front portside (left hand) lower deadeye using a wire jig. This jig will provide the correct spacing between the upper and the lower deadeye.

The loose end of the rope then goes up, around the mast and down to the position of the lower deadeye immediately behind the first. Using glue, alligator clip and another wire spacer, the upper deadeye is attached to the shroud.  At a latter stage, the double thickness of cord immediately above the upper deadeye will be bound with fine thread as shown as shown in some of our diagrams. The “Lanyards”, made of the thinnest rigging cord, are then installed as shown in the adjoining drawing. Because on the “real thing” the lanyards were constantly used to take up tension on the shrouds they were never tarred and should not be black.

Once the first pair of shrouds has been completed, the exercise is repeated on the other (starboard) side, then, back to the port side and so on.

If, when the others have been done there remains a single lower deadeye on each side then the final pair of shrouds goes from one side of the ship to the other with a large seized eye around the masthead. In all of this, it is important to ensure that the deadeyes are in straight rows parallel with the channels and with each other.

SEQUENCE OF SHROUDS

The forestays should now be fitted paying attention to the particular fittings used.  Quite commonly  “heart deadeyes” and lanyards will be used for tensioning purposes.

These are always rigged with a large seized eye around the masthead as with the “odd”  shrouds (if any). As with the shrouds they are rigged with deadeyes and lanyards but the upper deadeye will normally be at a higher level than that of the shroud deadeyes.  

The colour of the ratline cord is grey or fawn. The tying of ratlines can be fairly tedious but it is worth going to some trouble to ensure that it is done well.  Among the points to keep in mind are:

• They should not be too tight otherwise they will pull the shrouds together.
• They should be parallel to the waterline.
• On the “real thing” the spacing between each row was about 400mm  so, on a model at a scale of say 1:50, the gap would be approximately 10mm.
• Avoid tying knots tightly until all the ratlines are in place. This will allow some “fine tuning” before placing a tiny dab of glue on each knot. Placing a sheet of white plain paper behind the shrouds will assist with gaining contrast to make the tying of the ratlines a tad easier on the eyes.

ATTACHING RIGGING LINE TO BELAYING PINS

The adjacent diagram demonstrates clearly the method best used to attach the cord to the belaying pins.

If you have any difficulties determining which belaying pin a rope is intended to go to, a good rule of thumb is that the higher up the mast it starts then the further back it finishes.

ROPE COILS 

Plenty of rope coils draped over the belaying pins provide a finishing touch. These can be made from odd lengths of offcuts. If placed into the shapes you require they can be (fixed) permanently by using hair lacquer or nail polish.

WHAT SIZE ROPE TO USE

In the plans or in the instructions there should be a key or description of the size of cord to be used for various purposes. In the unlikely event that no indication is given, then the following can serve as a guide: 

Forestays & Anchor ropes – Heavy cord  

Shrouds & Backstays  – Medium cord  

Ratlines & Running Rigging – Lightest cord

RUNNING RIGGING

Once the standing rigging has been completed you can now start the Running Rigging. You will have enlarged the holes in the blocks which are already in place. Do the same with all other blocks as you come to use them.

When threading cord through blocks, you will find that a needle threader (available from sewing shops) will be very handy. Also, a smear of super glue on the end of the cord can stiffen it and make it easier to thread. Work from the centre of the ship out and try to avoid locking yourself into difficult positions. A Rigging Tool presented in the Tools section of our Catalogue will be helpful when rigging.

The various names for the Running Rigging are presented below.

• Fore brace   
• Fore lower topsail brace
• Fore upper topsail brace
• Fore lower topgallant brace
• Fore upper topgallant brace
• Fore royal brace
• Fore skysail brace
• Fore yard lift
• Fore topsail yard lift
• Fore topgallant yard lift
• Fore royal yard lift
• Fore skysail yard lift
• Main lower topsail brace
• Main upper topsail brace
• Main lower topgallant brace
• Main upper topgallant brace
• Main royal brace
• Main skysail brace 
• Main yard lift
• Main topmast yard lift
• Main topgallant yard lift
• Main royal yard lift
• Main skysail yard lift
• Mizzen yard brace
• Mizzen lower topsail brace
• Mizzen upper topsail brace
• Mizzen lower topgallant brace
• Mizzen upper topgallant brace
• Mizzen royal yard brace
• Mizzen skysail yard brace
• Mizzen topmast yard brace
• Mizzen topgallant yard lift
• Mizzen royal yard lift
• Mizzen skysail yard lift

Source:  “Ship Modeling Simplified” by Mastini Pages 145 –146

TYPICAL RUNNING RIGGING APPLICATIONS

NAMES OF MASTS & SPARS

• Fore lower mast
• Fore topmast
• Fore topgallant mast
• Fore royal and fore skysail mast
• Main lower mast
• Main topmast
• Main topgallant mast
• Main royal & main topgallant mast
• Mizzen lower mast
• Mizzen topmast
• Mizzen topgallant mast
• Mizzen royal & mizzen skysail mast
• Fore topsail yard
• Fore upper topsail yard
• Fore lower topgallant yard
• Fore upper topgallant yard
• Fore royal yard
• Fore skysail yard
• Main lower topsail yard
• Main upper topsail yard
• Main lower topgallant yard
• Main topgallant yard
• Main royal yard
• Main skysail yard
• Crossjack yard
• Mizzen lower topsail yard
• Mizzen upper topsail yard
• Mizzen lower topgallant yard
• Mizzen upper topgallant yard
• Mizzen royal yard
• Mizzen skysail yard
• Gaffsail boom
• Flying-jibboom
• Martingale boom, dolphin striker

Source:  “Ship Modeling Simplified” by Mastini Pages 142 –143

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Sail Plans: Dimensioned and Balanced for the Marblehead Class Model Racing Yacht

by Walter K. Moss

Here in Wisconsin, where skippers frequently encounter high wind velocities during the course of our model yacht racing season, it is almost essential that our craft be equipped with first, second, and even third suits of sails, while the hulls themselves remain of such a design as to be driven easily on those days when the winds are light. This situation compels may of us to make more than a casual study of our sail requirements.

Naturally, every model yachter crowds the area restrictions on his No. 1 suit of sails in order to get the most out of his boat on the “light” days. When this suit (and the wind) causes too great a heel in the hull, with a consequent slowing-up of the speed, it is time to put on the second suit, continuing to the third, if the second proves too large. There doesn’t seem to be any hard and fast rule as to how much smaller the second and third suit should be, nor would this be practical, because of the variations in the different hull recovery powers. However, it is a fairly general practice to obtain the maximum area permissible in suit No. 1, 10 per cent less area in suit No. 2, and 20 per cent less than No. 1 in suit No. 3. If there are to be only two suits, the smaller might be 15 per cent less.

Many theories have been developed with regard to the ratios between jib and main areas, foot to hoist, and length of keel to foot. An effort has been made to consolidate the best of this information into the accompanying illustration and measurements. The relationship of all these factors has been given consideration as well as the balancing of the two suits of sails. On a conventional Marblehead design the sail plans suggested should prove most satisfactory, although it is generally advisable to follow the sail plans accompanying any hull blue print.

That every sail plan must be balanced on the craft with with it is used is a foregone conclusion, but once a balance has been achieved no further difficulty should be experienced when complete changes from first to second suits are made, as the general balance will remain approximately equalized.

Like the experienced golfer who finds that a balanced set of golf clubs improves his game, so you will find that a balanced set of sails will improve your yacht’s performance.

Suit No. 1 Mainsail: (61 x 19.5)/2 = 594.7 Jib: (40 x 10.2)/2 = 204.0 Total: 798.7

Suit No. 2 Mainsail: (52 x 16.7)/2 = 434.2 Jib: (37 x 8.5)/2 = 157.2 Total: 591.4

Center of Effort

Percentages.

Suit No. 1 Jib to Mainsail: 1 to 2.91 Foot to Hoist: 1 to 3 Area to Maximum Allowed by Rules: 99.9

Suit No. 2 Jib to Mainsail: 1 to 2.84 Foot to Hoist: 1 to 3 Area to Maximum Allowed by Rules: 86.5

Suit No. 1 Mainsail luff: 0.12 Concave and Convex Jib luff: 0.14 Concave Mainsail foot: 0.25 roach Jib foot: 0.75 roach Mainsail leach: 1.75 roach Jib leach: 1.00 roach

Suit No. 2 Mainsail luff: 0.12 Concave Jib luff: 0.16 Concave Mainsail foot: 0.25 roach Jib foot: 0.75 roach Mainsail leach: 0.75 roach Jib leach: 0.75 roach

Mast stepped 6″ ahead of center of lateral resistance on conventional design. Sail plans balanced to a 4″ mast rake. Center of effort of No. 2 suit 1″ ahead of that of No. 1 suit to balance heavier winds. Booms will clear water under average heeling of yacht in blows. Jib fore-stay is under 80 per cent height ruling. Spar lengths: mast 65.5, boom 21.5, jib-club, 12.2

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the history of the future

At the age of fifteen David Potter started sailing model boats at the world famous Birkenhead Model Yacht Club.

In 2012 he decided to turn his passionate hobby into a business and launched Potter Solutions.

As a qualified engineer, with a good eye for detail, he produces a range of equipment for the majority of radio controlled model yacht classes.

David has competed in this thrilling sport for over Thirty years at both national and international events and is fully aware of the need for products that can deliver in the field at a competitive price.

Whatever your requirements, including information and advice,  David is always available for a chat.

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• Boat Rigging: Setting Sail for Success

In the world of sailing, boat rigging plays a crucial role in ensuring the safety, efficiency, and performance of your vessel. From standing rigging to sail rigging types, it's essential to understand the intricacies of rigging a yacht to embark on smooth sailing adventures. In this comprehensive guide, we'll dive into the nuances of boat rigging, helping you navigate the open waters with confidence.

Boat Rigging Basics

Before we delve into the details, let's start with the fundamentals of boat rigging. Understanding the key components and their functions is essential for any sailor, whether you're a novice or a seasoned pro.

Standing Rigging

Standing rigging refers to the fixed support structure of a boat's mast, including wires, cables, and rods. It plays a critical role in maintaining the mast's vertical position and overall stability.

Sail Rigging Types

Sail rigging is not a one-size-fits-all concept, but rather a diverse world with various types and configurations to suit different sailing needs. Understanding these rigging types is essential for any sailor looking to optimize their boat's performance and safety. 

Ship Riggings

Ship riggings have played a pivotal role in shaping the history of seafaring and maritime exploration. These complex systems of ropes, wires, and sails have been integral to the functionality and success of various vessels throughout the ages.Explore the significance of ship riggings, their evolution, and their influence on modern-day boat rigging.

Materials Matter

The choice of materials for your boat rigging is a decision that can't be taken lightly. Two popular options, Dyneema and Kevlar, offer distinct advantages.

Dyneema Rigging

Dyneema rigging represents a breakthrough in the world of sailboat rigging. This cutting-edge material, known for its remarkable strength and low stretch properties, has revolutionized the way sailors experience the open water. Often referred to as the ultimate innovation in the world of sailing, Dyneema rigging offers a myriad of advantages: 

• Exceptional Strength: Dyneema rigging boasts remarkable strength-to-weight ratio, making it incredibly robust and reliable even in demanding conditions. 
• Low Stretch: Dyneema has minimal stretch, which translates to improved sail control and responsiveness, ensuring better performance.
• Lightweight: It's significantly lighter than traditional rigging materials like steel, reducing the overall weight of your vessel and enhancing speed and maneuverability.
• Low Maintenance: Dyneema rigging requires minimal maintenance, offering sailors peace of mind and more time on the water.
• Resistance to Corrosion: Unlike metal rigging, Dyneema is not susceptible to corrosion, ensuring a longer lifespan and durability.
• UV Resistance: Dyneema is highly resistant to UV rays, making it ideal for prolonged exposure to sunlight.
• Easy Handling: Its flexibility and ease of handling simplify rigging installation and adjustments.
• Enhanced Safety: Dyneema's strength and reliability contribute to safer sailing experiences, reducing the risk of rigging failure.
• Versatility: It's suitable for a wide range of applications, from standing rigging to halyards, making it a versatile choice for sailors.
• Eco-Friendly: Dyneema is an environmentally friendly option as it doesn't release harmful substances into the water, contributing to a cleaner marine ecosystem.

Dyneema vs. Kevlar

Weigh the pros and cons of Dyneema and Kevlar to determine which suits your sailing needs best:

Dyneema Rigging:

• Exceptional Strength: Dyneema boasts impressive strength, making it highly reliable for rigging purposes.
• Low Stretch: It has minimal stretch, enhancing sail control and overall performance.
• Lightweight: Dyneema is significantly lighter than traditional materials, reducing the vessel's weight.
• Low Maintenance: Requires minimal upkeep, saving time and effort.
• Corrosion Resistance: Dyneema is not susceptible to corrosion, ensuring durability.
• UV Resistance: It's highly resistant to UV rays, making it suitable for extended exposure to sunlight.
• Safety: Dyneema's strength and reliability contribute to safer sailing experiences.
• Versatility: Suitable for various rigging applications, from standing rigging to halyards.
• Cost: Dyneema can be more expensive than some traditional materials, initially.
• Abrasion Resistance: It may be less resistant to abrasion compared to Kevlar.

Kevlar Rigging:

• Excellent Abrasion Resistance: Kevlar is highly resistant to wear and tear, ensuring longevity.
• High Tensile Strength: It offers impressive tensile strength, making it suitable for demanding applications.
• Stiffness: Kevlar is stiffer than Dyneema, which can be advantageous for some rigging configurations.
• Heavy: Kevlar is heavier than Dyneema, potentially impacting vessel performance.
• Low UV Resistance: It is less resistant to UV radiation, which can affect its durability over time.
• Higher Stretch: Kevlar tends to stretch more than Dyneema, which can impact sail control.
• Prone to Corrosion: Unlike Dyneema, Kevlar can be susceptible to corrosion.
• Cost: It can be expensive, and the initial investment may be higher than other materials.

Choosing between Dyneema and Kevlar depends on your specific sailing needs and priorities. Dyneema is favored for its strength, low stretch, and light weight, while Kevlar excels in abrasion resistance and tensile strength. Consider these factors when making your rigging material selection.

Stainless Steel Yacht Rigging

When it comes to yacht rigging, durability is paramount, and stainless steel rigging wires stand out as a top choice. Their robust nature, coupled with an unmistakable touch of elegance, makes them an ideal option for discerning sailors. Stainless steel yacht rigging is highly resistant to corrosion, even in the harsh marine environment. This resistance not only ensures a longer lifespan but also reduces maintenance efforts, allowing you to spend more time on the water. Additionally, the sleek appearance of stainless steel adds a touch of sophistication to your vessel. Whether you're cruising the open seas or participating in regattas, stainless steel yacht rigging combines style and substance to offer a premium sailing experience.

Spectra Standing Rigging

Spectra standing rigging is a game-changer for sailors seeking top-tier performance and durability. This advanced material, known for its incredible strength and low stretch properties, has revolutionized the way we approach standing rigging. Spectra rigging offers advantages that are hard to beat – it enhances the stability and safety of your vessel while providing exceptional responsiveness. The minimal stretch ensures precise sail control, making it the go-to choice for those who demand the utmost from their rigging. If you're looking to take your sailing experience to the next level, Spectra standing rigging is a choice that can't be ignored.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our  Magazine.

Rigging a Yacht: A Step-By-Step Guide

Now that you've grasped the basics and material options, let's dive into the practical aspect of rigging a yacht. Follow these steps to ensure a smooth and safe sailing experience.

Planning and Preparation

Rigging a yacht is a meticulous process that requires careful planning and thorough preparation. Before embarking on your sailing adventure, it's crucial to ensure that every aspect of your yacht's rigging is in top-notch condition. The advantages of this step-by-step guide are manifold. It guarantees the safety of both the vessel and its passengers, reduces the risk of mid-sail complications, and ultimately enhances your overall sailing experience. By meticulously inspecting your rigging and addressing any issues during the planning and preparation phase, you can set sail with confidence, knowing that your yacht is ready to navigate the open waters seamlessly.

Inspecting Your Rigging

Rigging a yacht is a meticulous process that demands careful attention to detail. One crucial aspect is inspecting your rigging. This step ensures the safety and efficiency of your sailing adventure. Regular inspections , even before you set sail, can identify potential issues and help prevent mishaps on the water . Inspecting your rigging is not only a safety measure but also a way to guarantee that your yacht performs at its best, allowing you to enjoy smooth and stress-free sailing experiences.

Rigging Replacement

When it comes to maintaining your yacht's rigging, the necessity of rigging replacement cannot be overstated. Whether due to wear and tear or a desire to upgrade to modern materials, knowing when and how to replace your rigging is crucial.

Specialized Rigs for Small Sailboats

For small sailboat enthusiasts , specialized rigs can enhance your sailing experience. Explore the options available for these nimble vessels.

Ship Rigging Terms

Sailboat rigging comes with its unique terminology. Get acquainted with the essential terms: 

• Mast: The vertical spar or structure that supports sails and rigging.
• Boom: A horizontal spar that extends from the mast to support the bottom of a sail.
• Shroud: Rigging wires that support the mast from the sides.
• Stay: Rigging wires that support the mast from the front or back.
• Halyard: Lines used to raise and lower sails.
• Sheet: Lines used to control the angle of the sails with respect to the wind.
• Jib: A triangular foresail set in front of the mast.
• Tack: The lower forward corner of a sail.
• Clew: The lower after corner of a sail.
• Topping Lift: A line that supports the boom when the sail is not in use.

Understanding these ship rigging terms is essential for efficient and safe sailing, allowing you to communicate effectively with your crew and navigate the open waters with confidence.

Sailboat Stays and Shrouds

Sailboat rigging comprises various components, and among the most critical are sailboat stays and shrouds. Stays are the fixed support cables or wires that keep the mast upright, while shrouds add lateral support, preventing the mast from swaying. These components work together to maintain the mast's stability and ensure safe and efficient sailing. The proper tension and alignment of stays and shrouds are crucial for the overall performance and safety of a sailboat. Regular inspections and maintenance of these rigging elements are essential to prevent wear and tear, making sure they remain reliable on your sailing adventures. Understanding the role of sailboat stays and shrouds is fundamental for any sailor, whether you're navigating coastal waters or crossing the open sea.

In conclusion, boat rigging is a multifaceted subject that greatly influences your sailing experience. Understanding the fundamentals, material choices, and the process of rigging a yacht is essential for a successful voyage.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our  range of charter boats  and head to some of our favourite 

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Build Your Own Plank Constructed Pond Yacht

A vintage marblehead-class pond yacht designed for radio control..

While growing up in western Pennsylvania, Bruce Richter spent countless hours in his dad’s workshop learning the ropes, building models, and making sawdust before getting sidetracked with garage bands, sports, and college. The urge to build returned around the time he and his wife Jan moved to New York City, although he quickly realized apartment living wasn’t exactly conducive to woodworking. The planets aligned when he discovered WoodenBoat School and Kerbs Boathouse in Central Park, home to over one hundred radio-control sailboats. Since then, Bruce took WoodenBoat School’s pond yacht construction course six times and served as former instructor Thom McLaughlin’s assistant before taking over as lead instructor a few years ago. Bruce has earned several national craftsmanship awards for the Vintage Marblehead RC sailboats he built at WBS. He is former Commodore of the 100-plus-year-old Central Park Model Yacht Club, has served as Class Coordinator of the US VMYG Vintage Marblehead fleet, is designer/art director of the vintage group’s publication The Model Yacht, and occasionally builds guitars. Following a career as a writer/creative director in major New York City advertising agencies and as president/executive creative director of his own marketing services firm, Bruce and wife Jan are beginning their next chapter in life as Blue Hill, Maine transplants.

This course is appropriate for students with some knowledge and experience. Basic knowledge and use of hand tools is required for most shop courses. Basic knowledge and ability to sail is required for most waterfront courses.

This course involves a low level of activity throughout the week including: occasional standing and working, seating is usually available, working on your own project at your own pace is common.

This is a six-day course ending Saturday

Other Sessions: September 1-7

Pond Yacht I: $385 (Includes CNC cut molds, strongback, keelson, planking, fin, and rudder.) Pond Yacht II: $169 (Includes materials to finish the boat other than sails, fittings and electronics.) Pond Yacht III:  $35 (Shop supplies to help you continue your project.)

In this course each student will begin the construction of his/her own pond sailboat using the plank on frame process. This practice is similar to those used in building full-sized boats and allows for a flowing hull form that is beautiful on display and swift on the water. The course boat NORUMBEGA was designed by former instructor Thom McLaughlin. The class of this boat is known as Vintage Marblehead (VM) and is still actively sailed today under the guidance of the U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group. The Marblehead class of small boat originated in 1932 using minimal design requirements of 50″ LOA and 800 square inches of sail. When fully rigged the boat is over 7′ tall, which makes it quite impressive from shore. The boat can be easily dismantled for transport. Construction of this pond yacht will pleasantly challenge and inform the builder. While group and one-on-one instruction will take place daily, students will also make decisions based on blueprints and developing an eye for form. During this week, the boat will be planked, faired, and the fin and rudder will be fabricated. Bruce will also discuss the steps that follow to complete the boat—decking, rigging, electronic installation, and painting.

Students who have started construction of their VM model in previous years at WoodenBoat School are also welcome to participate in this course to finish their boat. This week will be an excellent opportunity for further guidance. It will also provide inspiration to those individuals just beginning their boat and to view firsthand the final steps in construction.

This course is appropriate for students with some knowledge and experience.  Basic knowledge and use of hand tools is required for most shop courses.

“Bruce Richter was an excellent instructor. He taught the pond yacht course in a knowledgeable, caring, and professional manner.”

T.S., Wilbraham, Massachusetts

“Bruce Richter taught a great course. I liked that he checked our work each evening and made note of our mistakes to correct the next day. He pulled together regular meetings to discuss theory. I especially enjoyed the pond yacht history lesson! Great teaching skills. Great personality and a sense of humor.”

J.J., Phoenix, Maryland

Register For This Course

Courses fill quickly, so don't delay if this is a course you want to take.

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HOW TO START SAILING

Well done for visiting the Britannia Pond Yachts website. It is a good place to begin your journey of discovery into the world of model yachts.

How to find a model sailing yacht.

Starting out with sailing model yachts is easier than you think, there are plenty of second hand Star, Bowman and Skipper yachts available on auction sites like ebay or vintage sites like Etsy, there is even a Facebook Marketplace where yachts come up from time to time. Prices vary according to their condition, and vintage yachts are becoming very collectable with J. Alexander of Preston yachts commanding very high sums .

However the Star SY range are still reasonably priced and appear on ebay regularly the SY range are solid hull yachts that sail very well indeed for their size. The Star MK range are hollow and therefore lighter yachts these sail impeccably well. Bowman had a complicated range of yachts but their solid range of Admirals was the most commonly available and they do come up for sale from time to time, be prepared to pay a little more for a good Swift, Aquaplane, Gull or Heron.

Skipper yachts are still relatively modern and very good boxed examples appear from time to time these were made in Suffolk originally and range from 8 inches to 32, with a very nice 21 inch Yawl available for around the £100 mark. There are plenty of older vintage yacht types available but remember their sails and rigging may be delicate and need replacing. You may be lucky to stumble across a vintage racing yacht fitted with steering gear but whatever yacht you own it is true to say  the more you sail the more you will love the art of sailing.

Since the demise of Skipper there has not been another quality mass produced model yacht range available. However a small number of British artisan makers like Britannia Pond Yachts are out there, producing ranges of high quality yachts to sail.

What yacht to choose.

Firstly you need to consider how you are going to transport your yacht, if you use a motorcycle or the bus you will need a compact yacht that is easy to fold away and carry under the arm anything much over 18 inches becomes too hard to handle. If you use a small car then anything up to 25 inches is probably going to be alright but if going away on holiday this size of yacht may be too big to take. If you own a medium sized car then a 36 inch yacht is going to be about the biggest you will want to risk. For Marbleheads and 10 raters you are going to need an estate car and some help to get them in and out of the car let alone in the water. 

Yachts are not all designed to be racers with high aspect Marconi riggs that shoot across the yacht pond, although that is fun. There are plenty of other graceful yachts to choose from fitted with bowsprits and gaff rigs these yachts are classed as cruisers and they do everything in the utmost style and flamboyance.

When choosing a yacht think about where you are most likely to sail, a small pond like the one at Aldeburgh is only really suitable for smaller craft upto about 18 inches, whereas ponds like the round pond in Kensington is more suitable for much bigger yachts. Also think about the depth of water you will sail in, yachts with deep keels will need you to walk out into the pond wearing waders to launch them, whereas cutters with long shallower keels allow you launch them right at the water's edge.

A 1990's Suffolk made Skipper 12 inch Deben Estuary Pond Yacht

A 1930's 30 inch AJ Fisher type self steering racing yacht.

Where to sail, free sailing.

Yacht Ponds and boating lakes.

Where to sail can be a problem, safety should be paramount especially with young children who should be supervised at all at times. When introducing very young children to sailing model yachts it is best to find a raised pond like those at Aldebur gh near the Moot Hall and in the Croft, Sudbury, here you can free sail quite easily. Many parks have ponds and lakes but maturity of overhanging trees and shrubs often dictates that these ponds are only suitable for radio control or sailing using a tether. Some sites like Wicksteed Park in Kettering however do have speciall y designed yacht ponds where you can free sail small and large yachts alike. It is a question of going to look before hand to check the suitability of the yacht pond.

Village and town duck ponds are of course very handy some are in beautiful locations and are perfect for sailing  but only if they do not have steep banks and are not choked with bullrushes, using a tether is advisable if some of the banks are inaccessible. One renowned duck pond is Consols pond near St Ives in Cornwall this pond hosts an all comers sailing event every Good Friday this is a tradition that dates back over a hundred years!

The Seaside

Some seaside resorts provide outdoor swimming pools that fill when the tide comes in, the attraction with these pools is that the concrete edges act like break waters reducing the effect of crashing waves creating a virtual harbour providing a calm sailing experience. Smaller toy yachts can be sailed in rock pools or lagoons, but if you want to sail in the sea then you need to find a coast with a long shallow beach, such a beach will reduce the strength and height of the waves. It is best to find a section of tidal estuary like that near the car park in Kingsbridge, Devon. Your yacht should be washed down using tap water immediately after use as the corrosive action of sea water will cause the metal fittings to corrode.

Lakes are usually very overgrown with the water only accessible from swims made for anglers, they often have steep slippery banks, so they are usually best suited to radio controlled sailing they can be very large, with many obstructions that will impede free sailing, Such dangers are overhanging tree branches, tree roots, thick reed beds, thick Lily beds and islands. It is advisable to sail with a tether then you can at least pull your yacht from danger. Some lakes in parks do a hard standing and Tarmac paths at the water's edge the waters edge is sometimes better maintained, these lakes are more suitable if you are lucky enough to live near one.

Mill ponds can be accessible for sailing model yachts but be sure to ask the land owners permission some can be choked with cabbage weed and be too shallow, but you are certain of a beautiful location. Access may only be available from one bank so tethering your yacht would be sensible.

Sailing in a canal can be difficult if the water is difficult to reach and full of  narrow boats, however there is usually very little current and the banks are free from overhanging trees and bullrushes.

Sailing on rivers can be difficult not only can they have steep banks, but the banks can be unstable and slippery. Some rivers are too fast flowing and are too shallow to sail on, however some rivers like the Great Ouse flow very fast and are also very deep. If you fell in you would be swept away. If you do find a suitable river your yacht will of course have to contend with a current, a tether would be very advisable.

Swimming Pools

Swimming pools either outdoors or indoors provide a super place to sail at home the water is clean and blue, you can access the water from all points round the pool, indoor pools are  perfect for sailing in winter keeping you dry and warm, with added bonus of heated water.

Garden Ponds

If you are lucky enough to have a garden pond you can sail your yachts in the tranquility of your garden, just be careful not spook your goldfish. Garden ponds come in a variety of sizes some are ornamental whilst other have been made to support wildlife, either pond is suitable.

Paddling Pools

Paddling pools are usually inflatable, come in various sizes and some are often deep enough to sail small to medium sized yachts. Just be careful not to puncture the pool. 

Tin Baths and Butler Sinks

Some of us are not able to access a local pond suitable for sailing, but if you have a tin bath or an old Butler sink you can at least float your smaller yachts, in fact on Float Your Boat Day   you are encouraged to sail anything on or in anything that comes to hand whether a bucket or the bath. Float Your Boat Day is held on the 30th June each year and is held to remember the closure of the Star Yacht factory in Birkenhead near Liverpool. 

Sailing a Britannia Polestar on a Loch using a tether

Model Yacht Clubs.

If you are a beginner you could join a local model sailing club, you are then joining a support group of like minded experienced people that will help you get the best from your yacht, there are many model boat clubs up and down the country. Members have varied interests some are into radio control others just power boats but there will be someone that like you that just wants to free sail for fun.

The Vintage Model Yacht Group is also worth joining, you will then receive The Turning Pole ,  this publication is issued monthly you can read other members articles on racing yachts down to clockwork and rubbered powered toy boats. Along with latest news and items for sale. They have an excellent web site that is full of information.

A beautiful long keel 25 inch 1920's Suggs Cutter in as found condition, suitable for sailing in shallow water.

Sailing Your Yacht.

An in depth explanation of of this subject would cover many pages but here is a general outline of how to sail your new model yacht.

To sail your yacht successfully windward (into the wind) you will first need to trim your yacht, to do this you will need to haul the sails in on the horses/travellers or screw eyes by adjusting the bowsies on the sheeting cords. You should not tighten them so that the sails are not pulled dead flat but instead but a little loose so that they are able to fill with air and hence provide nice air flow over the sails.

Your model should sail to windward with both booms parrallel to each other when viewed from aft (stern). The luff of your sails should be as tight as you can get them as your model will not sail windward with a slack luff.

To run before the wind you will need to open up the sails so that the boom is allowed to swing almost square the mast, this is not possible on a lot of model yachts due to the way they are constructed, but let the boom swing as far as it will go. If your yacht has a rudder you can set less helm to help stop the yacht running off wind. With steering gear you can set the quadrant pins nearer to the centre of the quadrant or haul the sails in a little. If  your yacht turns or broaches into the wind then more helm must be given or you will need to ease the sails off a little. 

If your yacht self tacks (sails swing freely across the deck from side to side) then a turning pole is a handy addition to your outing as you can flick the bow of the yacht to turn and sail back across the pond. Older gaff rigged yachts will require you to lift the yacht out of the water before turning and swap around the sheeting holding the header sails, they usually have clew hooks fitted to help with this.

It will take several attempts before you learn how to get the best from your yacht, as we know from experience our weather  is never the same on any given two days, this challenge is in part what makes the art of sailing pond yachts such a rewarding and absorbing hobby. 

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The definitive guide to sailing yacht rigging

Related articles, superyacht directory.

Do you know your Bermudan rig from your DynaRig or wingsails? And which is best? BOAT explains it all...

Take a look at a modern racing yacht from above, beating to windward and heeled to the breeze, and you can see at a glance why Bermudan rigs have stood the test of time. With its fore and aft sails bladed into efficient aerodynamic shapes, a modern yacht can slice close to the wind and be driven hard. Such a sight would have been outlandish a century ago. Then, a typical trading barquentine could set 18 sails to catch light airs, but it needed a large crew to battle with canvas far out on the yards. In a modern miracle as incredible in its way as flight, today’s racing yachts can sail faster than the speed of the wind – in some cases several times faster.

A mainsail set on a single spar is an age-old concept but only in the 19th century was it adapted as the Bermudan or Marconi rig. A one-piece mainsail set on a mast without a gaff, hoisted with one halyard and controlled by one sheet, was simpler and more efficient. This revolution became the power train of pleasure yachting and racing.

But perhaps the time is coming for a re-evaluation of simpler rigs requiring fewer crew – alternatives with lower loads operated by automated systems. In an era of reduced carbon consumption, could more radical sailplans even herald a revival in sail power?

The evergreen Bermudan rig

The Bermudan rig is the all-rounder, able to perform well at all angles of sail. It is efficient upwind, while downwind the sail area can be significantly boosted with a big gennaker or spinnaker. For good reasons, it is the first choice for nearly every modern sailing yacht up to around 60 to 65 metres for cruising and regatta racing alike. At larger sizes, however, things start to become trickier, and the trade-offs get interesting.

Over the last decade, sail handling technology has steadily advanced to allow sloop rigs to grow larger and larger. “But with that comes a highly loaded rig, many tonnes of compression from tension in the rigging, and you have to build structure in the boat to accept that,” explains Paul MacDonald, founder and superyacht sales manager of Southern Spars.

“You have to have a lot of deck gear and captive winches below decks and the machinery for that. But over the years, boom furling systems and MPS [Multi Purpose Sails for downwind angles] stored on a drum, for example, have made sail handling safer.

Bill Tripp is the designer behind the 86-metre Aquijo , which broke new ground in 2015 as the world’s largest Bermudan ketch. Tripp prefers to call the rig a "sketch", a portmanteau word for a rig that is neither a sloop nor a ketch “because the main and mizzen are identical”. Even though the sailplan is divided over two masts, each spar is still a towering 90 metres above the water. Aquijo perfectly illustrates the issues involved with a Bermudan rig when scaled up.

“The sloop is great but I prefer the ‘sketch’ for sailing around the world under full control due to the desirability of a two-masted rig for reaching ability, which dominates passages, and the safety of controllable loads when sailing in all kinds of conditions miles from nowhere,” he says.

Upwind, Aquijo sets a jib, staysail, mainsail and mizzen, all in North Sails 3Di, totalling 3,821 square metres. A furling Code sail for reaching and downwind angles increases that to a vast 5,051 square metres.

While Aquijo has a crew retinue of 17, it can be controlled under sail by six or seven people. With custom winches to handle halyards and sheets, the sails can be hoisted astonishingly quickly for such a large rig. “It takes five minutes to put the main up, on average, and the main and mizzen can go up at the same time,” Tripp says. Aquijo has now sailed 100,000 nautical miles around the world and the owner is planning another circumnavigation through the Northwest Passage.

Tripp is not convinced of the wisdom of a much larger single-masted sloop rig. “If you are day sailing in the Med, a sloop would be awesome, but I am not sure if you had fewer sails you would be able to [reduce canvas] well enough. Also the mast is a windage problem when the keel is up and you are beam-to. If you are on anchor, that’s no problem but you’d have to be able to cope with being on the docks in 70 knots. The windage at 120 metres is not only more but the centre of effort is so much higher, and so the heeling loads all go up.”

However, British designer Malcolm McKeon , the name behind the high-performance, sloop-rigged carbon composite superyachts Missy and Ribelle , is pushing the sloop rig to new heights. His 85-metre design concept Apex, developed with Royal Huisman , would be the largest sloop-rigged yacht in the world. “The loads are enormous,” he admits, “but it is all scalable.”

“The big disadvantage is sail handling. The downwind sails are pretty complicated once you start hoisting and retrieving, even with drum and reel systems. It is not straightforward.” But, he adds, “I think we know the advantages of a sloop: if you want all-round performance you can’t beat it, even at the top end.”

Advantages of a clipper rig

The DynaRig has been around as a concept since the 1960s when German engineer Wilhelm Prölss devised these free-standing, rotating rigs as a fuel-saving solution for large commercial vessels. The idea was ahead of its time, so much so that its first realisation came nearly 40 years later when American owner Tom Perkins bought the residual technology and commissioned Dykstra Naval Architects to create a three-masted DynaRig for Maltese Falcon , his 88-metre Perini Navi.

The DynaRig is not as efficient upwind as the Bermudan rig, and is probably not the best solution for a yacht smaller than around 65 metres, suggests Jeroen de Vos of Dykstra. “We wouldn’t advise putting a DynaRig on a small yacht because there are other ways to manage sail handling. But on a larger yacht the DynaRig becomes an alternative because there is no rigging, no highly loaded sheets, low-tech [small] sails and no big winches.”

The beauty of the DynaRig is that its automatic systems can be handled by one or two people and, notes de Vos, “you don’t have to get out of your chair to go sailing. Maltese Falcon can sail on and off the anchor and can set 2,400 square metres of sail in six minutes. On other boats it takes six minutes to get the sail cover off.”

Damon Roberts of Magma Structures, which built the rigs for Maltese Falcon and the only other DynaRig yacht to date, the 106-metre Black Pearl , says: “You can do any manoeuvre easily; it’s like sailing a dinghy. There are no highly loaded sheets or ropes or flogging lines. You can luff up, bear away, tack and gybe at  any time and really enjoy sailing the boat without any apparent fuss.”

So with all these advantages, why has the DynaRig been chosen for only two sailing superyachts? For some designers, such as Malcolm McKeon, it is partly to do with compromises imposed by the large mast tubes and bearing diameters on the internal structure and layout, “particularly in the cockpit area,” he says. He also points out that the clipper ship look is not to every owner’s taste. “Sloops are more conventional looking,” he says.

Damon Roberts says there is still development work to be done. He has teamed up with Southern Spars and, with their additional resources, expects evolution with several new projects. “These include two at the moment that are twin-masted DynaRigs,” he says. “We did quite a lot of wind tunnel work early on as we felt that was really the sweet spot for it, and people will be stunned at how efficient these are.”

The future of the wingsail

Wingsails have been around for decades too, but with their adoption by the last two America’s Cups and the confluence with foiling technology, they have undergone rapid and revolutionary development.

To date, there is no proven solution for reefing a wing that would be suitable for offshore cruising or ocean passages. As the pronounced aerodynamic “nose” at the leading edge of a wing can develop force in strong winds, they could potentially make a large yacht uncontrollable in port as well.

“How do you get rid of sail and how does [a boat] handle when caught out in heavy wind conditions – which you will be? How do you keep the angle of attack all the way up the rig and how do you handle squalls?” Roberts asks. “A mechanism to reduce sail might be easy to sketch out but it is difficult to engineer.”

Jeroen de Vos says: “The wingsails are more developed towards performance and I wouldn’t say that they are as practical as soft sails or would ever make handling easier. But if somebody wants that, why not? Reefable soft sails, wings that are inflated, hoisted panels, possibly these are applicable. The development of this area is happening very rapidly.”

Paul MacDonald of Southern Spars agrees that the time is not here yet but thinks it will come. “In reality we are in the early days of wings. For the America’s Cup, they are the most efficient way of sailing by a long shot, but with them comes handling issues, which the industry hasn’t resolved yet. But I am sure they will be in 10 years’ time. Designers such as VPLP are starting to [work on concepts] and we are going to see something that is usable and efficient and suitable for ocean work eventually,” he says. “And whatever the solution is, you imagine that it will scale.”

Looking to the future

A drive for greener superyachts could present an opportunity for sail, but perhaps it needs to be less daunting.

“There is this intimidation of sheets and backstays, and sailing is a language you don’t learn in a year,” Tripp says. “But we have a project we are doing now with a yard with some new rig technology and some soft wings that we think is going to be viable.

“We can uncomplicate sailing more. If we can win people over from motorboats it will help, but we are only winning these battles one or two at a time. We need [more] projects like Sailing Yacht A , which are something really different, and do more things better with less energy. We as architects need to elicit change.”

McKeon also sees change coming. “People are more and more concerned about keeping their image green and sails are the way to do that,” he says. “Simpler sailing systems are needed. The current generation is used to Bermudan sloops. In years to come, the traditionalists will all be gone, and maybe new people will be more accepting of [different ideas]. I think in the future we will certainly have wings.”

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Ferretti Yachts and Riva to attend Moscow Boat Show 2013

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Written by Zuzana Bednarova

To be represented by Premium Yachts, Ferretti Yachts and Riva , two prestigious brands of the Ferretti Group, will be present at the Moscow International Boat Show 2013, displaying motor yacht Ferretti 530 as well as Riva Iseo yacht tender.

Luxury motor yacht Ferretti 530

Luxury yacht Ferretti 530 was very keen to undertake in collaboration once again with AYT – Advanced Yacht Technology, Ferretti Group Engineering Division and Studio Zuccon International Project . The compact dimensions, 16 meters long and almost 5 meters wide, allow the 530 yacht to deliver grand Italian luxury and cruising immersed in such comfort until now unheard of in a yacht of this size.

Ferretti 530 yacht boasts three revolutionary innovations: the full beam master cabin with chaise longue and two large open view windows that make it a real suite at sea level bathed in light, tones and the natural essences of teak. Moving the galley from the center to the aft section creates a unique open space that includes the saloon, galley, cocktail bar and the dining area, the cockpit area continues thanks to the tilting window. The roll bar free sky lounge and the spoiler allow the 530 a sporty appearance combined with elegantly formal lines.

Ferretti 530 Yacht - Interior

Riva , the iconic Ferretti Group brand, presented a new model at the historical Lake d’Iseo shipyards in July 2011. Featuring elegance and ease of transportation as its distinctive characteristics, Iseo superyacht tender , a 27 foot runabout, is destined to become a must-have for those who love cruising on both lakes and the sea, and, most importantly, design enthusiasts. It is also perfect for anyone wishing to enhance their yacht with an exclusive tender that will never go unnoticed.

Riva Iseo superyacht tender

Due to its ease of manoeuvrability and size, Iseo yacht tender is also ideal as a tender for large yachts. Innovative and elegant, it can also guarantee comfort in bad weather conditions. Besides the electrohydraulic bimini top, it was also designed with a waterproof, automobile-style soft top which protects those on board against water and the wind during cruising.

Please contact CharterWorld - the luxury yacht charter specialist - for more on superyacht news item "Ferretti Yachts and Riva to attend Moscow Boat Show 2013".

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