sailboat solar panel arch

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DIY sailboat arch

By Author Fiona McGlynn

Posted on Last updated: August 18, 2023

Build your own sailboat solar arch or radar arch for a fraction of the price.

We were outfitting our 1979 Dufour 35 for a multi-year sailing trip and had decided to install a 400-watt solar array. But how to best mount them?

A structural arch made the most sense, and we didn’t have one. After a couple of quotes over $5000 USD for a ‘simple arch,’ we decided that we would have to build our own. 

We sought opinions around the docks and almost universally received the advice, ‘Don’t do it…just don’t.’

But, being young and foolish we decided to try it anyway; what did we really have to lose?  While it was more difficult than I had anticipated, we ended up with a product with we were quite happy with and it only cost us a little more than $200 USD.  

Note: A version of this article was published in Good Old Boat Magazine

What is the purpose of a sailboat arch?

Structural arches, also commonly referred to as solar, stern, or radar arches, are a common feature of coastal cruising and bluewater sailboats .

They are used for a variety of purposes, but most commonly to mount and support:

• Solar panels
• A wind generator
• A radar radome
• A weather station
• Various communications antennae
• A dinghy davit, for raising and lowering the dinghy

What do sailboat solar arches cost?

While they provide many advantages, arches can often be prohibitively expensive (commonly from 5k – 12k); but with a little sweat equity, limited metal working skill, and some careful measurements there is no reason why you can’t build your own sturdy arch for a fraction of the normal cost.

Customizing your solar arch

There are as many shapes and sizes of structural arches as there are sailboats.  Determining the style of an arch for your sailboat will depend on a variety of factors, primarily; aesthetics, cost, and function. 

This article details my experience designing, fabricating, and installing a simple, aluminum arch that I use for solar panels, radar, AIS antenna, and a weather station, not to mention a hundred other small things. 

The principles of design and fabrication are common to a wide variety of arches and can likely be used as the basis for other who want to modify the design to fit their own needs and boat shape.

I provide very little engineering guidance below and I recommend that readers creating their own arches first pass their design by a structural engineer or someone knowledgeable in structural design.

There are three main types of material from which to construct an arch; stainless steel, aluminum, and fiberglass. 

There are a variety of factors that go into material selection, with the most common being; aesthetics, price, strength, and ease of construction.  I made a subjective traffic light comparison of the different materials, to assist our decision-making process. 

Stainless steel and aluminum compared closely for our needs, but as our chief concerns were price and ease of construction we opted to go with aluminum. 

There are many different grades of aluminum and it is important to select one that will stand up to the marine environment. 

We selected aluminum alloy 5052.  It is a medium-strength aluminum alloy with good ductility and excellent corrosion resistance and for the latter reason is often preferred for marine environments. 

High-grade aluminum cannot be easily found in conventional building supply stores like Home Depot. 

Purchasing metal from a wholesaler, such as Metal Supermarket or Metals Depot , is much cheaper than buying from a local welder or manufacturer.  A simple google search will supply you with the options for metal wholesalers in your area. 

We purchased our raw materials for the arch for around $70 USD.

In addition to the aluminum tubing, we required the same type of aluminum in flat-stock and stainless steel bolts and lock-nuts to fasten the frame together and to secure it to the deck of the boat. 

I made all the required cuts with a hack-saw and jigsaw, though a metal cutting blade on a radial arm saw or circular saw would have worked as well. 

I cleaned up the cut edges and any sharp spots with a 5” angle grinder with a grinding disc made for aluminum.  A titanium-coated drill bit was used to make the bolt holes.

Determining the shape

Once the material was selected we had to decide on a shape.  We wanted as simple and robust a shape as possible. 

Many arches have a form that cantilevers over the transom of the boat.  While the aesthetic is nice, the primary function of this shape is to support dinghy davits. Due to its cantilevered nature, it imparts a constant rotational force on the attachment locations. 

We have a wind vane on the back of our boat, so hoisting the dinghy was out of the question.  We opted for a simpler shape that transfers load straight down, thereby reducing stress on attachment locations.   

The arch design makes use of a forward tube (1) and an aft tube (2) with two bends in each tube.  A tube connecting the aft and forward tubes at an angle creates a cross brace (3), resisting lateral force fore and aft and distributing dead load. 

Two pieces of flat-stock aluminum (4) bolted on top of the forward and aft tubes also provide lateral resistance and further rigidity to the frame. 

The 3” radius bends in the tubes resist lateral forces from the sides. 

Four ¼” thick, 3” square plates (5) were cut from flat stock and welded to the ends of the tubes.  These plates were bolted through the deck to matching plates on the other side. 

Calculating the tube bends

After measuring everything out to ensure no obstruction, the next step was determining the slope angle (A) of the forward tube.  The slope of the tube would give the arch a sleeker look and improve access on and off the boat.  

Wherever possible it is nice to create parallel lines as too many intersecting lines can be displeasing to the eye, so I maintained the same slope as the pushpit. 

The slope of the forward tube (A) also determines the angle (B) at which the tube will be bent in order to keep the sides of the arch in one plane and in line with the sides of the boat.

There are three ways to calculate the angle of bend (B) in the forward tube:

The first requires some complex trigonometry for which I created a calculator in Excel, which requires only the dimensions of the arch as inputs. 

Another option is to use a free CAD (computer-assisted drawing) program such as Trimble SketchUp and draw the arch you want to build using the measurements you took from the boat.  If using CAD, it is a simple process to measure the angle of the bend with the protractor tool. 

Lastly, you can construct the arch out of a practice material such as PVC pipe or doweling and physically measure the angles and dimensions.  This option also provides the chance to see how the arch interacts with other components of the boat.

Tube bending

Bending the tubing can be done for a low cost at home.  It is possible to rent a tube bender from a building supply store for $50 USD per day or purchase a hydraulic tube bender for around $100-150 USD. 

We ended up renting a tube bender and found the process quite easy.

We were advised by a tube bending company (Aggressive Tube Bending) to select tubing with a 1.5” outer diameter and a 0.145” wall as it didn’t require annealing (heating and slowly cooling) to bend to a 3” radius, whereas 2” tubing would have required annealing. 

It is a good idea to contact a metal shop or tube bending company to ensure that your design can be fabricated without special equipment or techniques. 

Usually, these questions can be answered quickly and over the phone and do not incur a consulting fee.

Installation

Dry-fit preinstallation.

My recommendation would be to dry-fit everything prior to any welding. 

It takes a little extra time to assemble and dry-install the arch, only to disassemble it again, but the time saved in having to cut welds or modify a finished product is well worth it. 

We designed and installed our arch while dry-docked in a boatyard.  We tried to keep the solar panels parallel to the waterline, but when the boat went back in the water, due to weight redistribution, the panels ended up angled slightly forward. 

It is a good idea to fit the arch on a calm day at the dock, rather than guess how the boat sits in the water.

Measure and cut the tubes

The most difficult process of the whole job was transferring the angle of the deck to the bottom of the tubes to ensure that the base plates would be flush when mounted.  Because the deck slopes in two directions it would be impossible to assume an angle at which to cut. 

The solution we devised was using a piece of ½” wood and tracing around the tube with an indelible marker (see image below).

We first made the tubes as secure as possible in the locations they would be when they are bolted to the deck.  This required installing the flat stock between them and lashing them to as many points on the deck as we could find. 

The bottom of the tubes rested on the deck.  We used a 3/8” thick, block of wood, which was placed flat on the deck, as a guide and traced a line around each tube. 

The line transferred the correct angle of the deck to the tubes. I made the cuts with a hack saw and cleaned them up with an angle grinder.

Weld base plates and attachment tabs

We hired an aluminum welder to weld 3”X3”X1/4” plates to the tubes that would be used to connect the arch to the deck of the boat.

When fitting the base plates to the tubing, trace the shape of the tube onto the baseplate to ensure the orientation of the plate is maintained. 

We also welded tabs to the fore and aft tubes and corresponding tabs to the ends of the cross-brace tubes.   The length of the cross-brace tube must be exact to connect to the attachment tabs on the fore and aft tubes, so careful measurements are required. 

Install the fore and aft tubes

We bolted the fore and aft tubes to the deck prior to bolting together the rest of the frame. 

We had planned to run the electrical cables for antennae and the radome through the tubes so we drilled 1” diameter holes in the base plates and through the deck where the base plates would be attached. 

The 1” diameter hole will accommodate most electrical connectors. You may also want to install a ‘messenger line,’ which can be used to pull the cables through the frame after the arch is installed.

We applied Sikaflex 291 to the entire underside of the base plate immediately prior to installation to ensure a water-tight connection between the base plates and the deck. 

The base plates were secured with 1.5” x 5/16” stainless steel bolts that connected to corresponding plates on the underside of the deck. 

If there is not enough room for a plate on the underside, you can double up oversized stainless steel washers to meet the pull-out resistance requirements. 

Stainless steel will react to aluminum and cause corrosion of the aluminum.  A simple way to avoid this is to apply lanolin (we used Lanocote) to the stainless steel bolts to insulate them from the aluminum.

Bolt the frame together

Next we attached the cross-brace tubes. There will be a little flex in the frame, which provides some allowance for connecting the cross braces. 

After securing the cross-brace tubes with stainless steel bolts, we installed the 1/4” flat stock to the tops of the tubes. 

We had previously cut the flat stock into two 8” wide strips.  If you are concerned about rigidity you can bend a 90-degree angle into the length of the flat-stock, though over a 3’ length, the deflection of unbent flat-stock will be minimal.

To improve corrosion resistance and the aesthetic appearance of the arch, the various pieces, now that they have been welded, can be anodized or painted. 

Anodizing requires submersion in a shallow electrolytic bath, so the arch must be in its disassembled form in order to be anodized.  We received a quote for $150 USD to anodize the arch in any color we wanted. 

Another option is to have the arch powder coated.  We received a quote of $100 to paint it white or black. 

In the end, we opted to do nothing as we don’t mind the dull silver look of the aluminum and were still penny-pinching. 

In retrospect, we wish we’d had the arch anodized bright orange, but we were in a rush and focused on keeping costs to a minimum. 

The arch has not only been extremely useful for its intended purpose but also become invaluable for the various add-ons that we could never have foreseen. 

In addition to being a mount for solar panels, radome, communications antennae, and the weather station, an arch is also a place that supports or provides attachment points for:

• the outboard fuel tank and outboard lifting tackle
• fishing rod holders and a fish cleaning station
• the stern anchor
• furling line and boom brake attachment points
• boogie board storage

It also adds to the sense of security in the cockpit and is a great handhold in rolling conditions.  It was a lot of work, but in the end, only costs us $200 USD and we can no longer imagine our little boat without it.

*Note: We installed our radome directly over the solar panels, which was a bad idea as it shades a small portion of the panels most of the time, greatly reducing solar output.  I would recommend installing the arch on an extension away from the solar panels so that the noon-day sun is unobstructed, or even better, installing the radome on the mast.

Fiona McGlynn is an award-winning boating writer who created Waterborne as a place to learn about living aboard and traveling the world by sailboat. She has written for boating magazines including BoatUS, SAIL, Cruising World, and Good Old Boat. She’s also a contributing editor at Good Old Boat and BoatUS Magazine. In 2017, Fiona and her husband completed a 3-year, 13,000-mile voyage from Vancouver to Mexico to Australia on their 35-foot sailboat.

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Adding Solar Power to a Sailboat

• By Emily Fagan
• Updated: October 18, 2019

During our nearly four-year cruise of Mexico, my husband, Mark, and I lived almost exclusively on 555 watts of solar power charging a 640-amp-hour house battery bank. We anchored out virtually every night aboard our 2008 Hunter 44DS, Groovy , and relied on the sun for power. During one 10-week stretch, while we waited for a replacement engine alternator to arrive, our boat’s solar panels were our sole source of power. We had no backup charging system to turn to, and yet we lived and sailed comfortably the entire time. Mounting solar panels on a sailboat was not difficult, but a few key decisions made a huge difference in how effective our panels were.

A solar-power installation on a sailboat is made up of two independent systems: one system to charge the batteries, and another system to provide 120-volt AC power for household appliances. In the charging system, the solar panels convert sunlight into electrical current and deliver it to the batteries via a solar charge controller. Similar to a voltage regulator, the charge controller acts as a gatekeeper to protect the batteries from receiving more current than they need as they are being charged. In the AC power system, an inverter or inverter/charger converts the 12-volt DC power in the battery into 120 volts AC whenever it is turned on.

Panel Positioning and Wiring Considerations

One of the biggest challenges for sailors installing solar power on a sailboat is finding a place on the boat where the panels will be shaded as little as possible. Just a few square inches of shade on one panel can render that panel all but inoperable. Unfortunately, between the mast, radome, spreaders and boom, shadows cross the deck all day long, especially as the boat swings back and forth at anchor.

What’s worse, if the panels are wired in series rather than in parallel, this little bit of shade can shut down the entire solar-panel array. When we installed solar power on Groovy , we had already lived exclusively on solar power in an RV for over two years. Our RV solar panels had been wired in series, and we had witnessed the array shutting down current production when just half of one panel was shaded.

Choosing whether to wire the panels in series or parallel on a boat affects the wire gauge required, which is why many solar-power installers lean toward wiring the panels in series. Panels wired in series can be wired all the way to the solar charge controller with a thinner-gauge wire than those wired in parallel. This is because the voltage of panels wired in series is additive, while the current remains constant, so the current flowing is just that of a single panel. In contrast, the current flowing from panels that are wired in parallel is additive, while the voltage across them is not. This means that in a parallel installation, the current going to the charge controller is several times higher and requires much thicker cable to avoid any voltage loss over the length of the wire.

Not only is thinner-gauge wire less expensive, but it is also more supple and easier to work with, making the job of snaking it in and around various crevices in the boat and connecting it to the solar charge controller much less of a struggle. Thus the choice between series and parallel wiring boils down to a trade-off between system performance, expense and ease of solar system installation.

Luckily, the size of the wire can be reduced if higher-­voltage solar panels are chosen. Since watts are determined by multiplying volts by amps, a higher-voltage panel that generates the same watts as a lower-voltage panel will produce less current. Therefore, selecting nominal 24-volt panels instead of 12-volt panels allows for the use of thinner wire sizes no matter how they are wired.

Our Marine Solar Panel Design Choices

In our installation, we decided to mount three 185-watt, 24-volt (nominal) Kyocera solar panels high above the cockpit, well aft of the boom, as far away as possible from potential shade. Our Hunter came with a big, solid stainless-steel arch, and we turned to Alejandro Ulloa, a brilliant metal fabricator at Baja Naval Boatyard in Ensenada, Mexico, to build a polished stainless-steel solar-panel arch extension onto the existing structure. He designed the arch extension with integrated telescoping davits to hoist our dinghy as well as support the solar panels. These davits were strong enough — and the lines and blocks had enough purchase — that either of us could lift our light Porta-Bote dinghy with its 6-horsepower outboard without a winch.

We spaced the panels about a half-inch apart and wired them in parallel. Using two twin-lead wires, we snaked the three positive leads and one common ground down through the inside of the arch tubes so they wouldn’t be visible, and placed wire loom over the exposed wires under the panels.

The junction points for the three parallel panels were on positive and negative bus bars inside a combiner box, all mounted in a cockpit lazarette. Inside the combiner box, we installed three breakers, one for each panel. This gave us the ability to shut off any or all of the panels if we needed to (we never did).

We mounted a Xantrex solar charge controller (model XW MPPT 60-150) in a hanging locker, as close to the batteries as possible, in a spot where it was easy to monitor and program. We ran twin-lead wire from the combiner box to the charge controller and from there to the batteries.

Our boat came with three new 12-volt Mastervolt 4D AGM house batteries, all wired in parallel, for a total of 480 amp-hours of capacity. We wanted a bigger house battery bank, and because it is best for the age, type and size of the batteries to be matched, we added a fourth new Mastervolt 4D AGM house battery, which brought our total to 640 amp-hours. Our batteries were installed at the lowest point in the hull, below the floorboards, and they ran the length of the saloon, from just forward of the companionway stairs to just aft of the V-berth stateroom door.

The best way to charge a bank of batteries that are wired in parallel is to span the entire battery bank with the leads coming from the charge controller. We did this by connecting the positive lead from the charge controller to the positive terminal of the first battery in the bank, and the negative lead from the charge controller to the negative terminal of the last battery. By spanning the entire bank, the batteries were charged equally rather than having the charging current focused on just the first battery in the bank.

We feel that AGM batteries are superior to wet cell (flooded) batteries because they can be installed in any orientation, don’t require maintenance, can’t spill (even in a capsize), and charge more quickly. Our Mastervolt batteries, like almost all AGM batteries on the market, are dual-purpose, combining the very different characteristics of both deep-cycle and start batteries. Our batteries work well, but if we were doing an installation from scratch today, we would consider the new Trojan Reliant AGM batteries. These batteries are engineered strictly for deep-cycle use and have been optimized to provide consistent current and maximize battery life.

Our boat came with a Xantrex Freedom 2,500-watt inverter/charger wired into the boat’s AC wiring system with a transfer switch. The inverter/charger performed two functions. While the boat was disconnected from shore power, it converted the batteries’ 12-volt DC power into 120-volt AC power, allowing us to operate 120-volt appliances, like our microwave. When the boat was connected to shore power, it charged the batteries.

Because this inverter/charger was a modified-sine-wave inverter, mimicking AC ­current with a stair-stepped square wave, we also had a 600-watt pure-sine-wave inverter to power our potentially more sensitive electronic devices. We chose Exeltech because its inverters produce an electrical signal that is clean enough to power medical equipment, and they are NASA’s choice for both the Russian and American sides of the International Space Station. For simplicity, rather than wiring the inverter into the cabin’s AC wiring, we plugged ordinary household power strips into the AC outlets on the inverter and plugged our appliances into the power strips. Like the charge controller, the inverter must be located as close to the batteries as possible. Ours was under a settee.

Shade’s Impact on Sailboat Solar Panels

Once our solar installation was completed on our sailboat, we closely observed the effects of shade on our solar-panel array. We were often anchored in an orientation that put the panels in full sun. Just as often, however, we were angled in such a way that shade from the mast and boom covered portions of our panels. It was fascinating to monitor the solar charge controller’s LCD display whenever the sun was forward of the beam — the current from the panels to the batteries fluctuated up and down as we swung at anchor.

Taking notes one morning, we noticed that the charging current was repeatedly creeping up and down between 9.5 and 24.5 amps as the boat moved to and fro. When the entire solar-panel array was in full sun, it generated 24.5 amps of current. When we moved so the mast shaded a portion of one panel, the array generated 15 amps. When it shaded portions of two panels and only one was in full sun, the array produced just 9.5 amps. Of course, it would have been preferable to see a steady 24.5 amps all morning, but this sure beat watching the current drop to zero whenever a shadow crossed a panel.

We discovered that shade makes a huge impact while sailing, too. Surprisingly, it is far worse to have the panels shaded by the sails than to have the panels in full sun but tilted away from its direct rays. One afternoon, we noticed that while we were on a tack that tilted the panels away from the sun, they generated 24.5 amps of current, whereas on a tack where the panels were tilted toward the sun but two of the three were partially shaded by the sails, the current dropped to a mere 10 amps.

Reflections On Our Solar Panel Installation

A wonderful and surprising side benefit of our large solar panels and arch system was that the setup created fabulous shade over the jumpseats at the stern end of the cockpit. Our metal fabricator, Alejandro, placed a support strut at hand-holding height, and sitting in those seats feels secure and comfortable while sailing, no matter the conditions.

After living on solar power for eight years of cruising and land-yacht travel, we’ve learned that you can never have too much solar power. Groovy’s 555 watts was enough to run all our household appliances as needed, including our nearly 4-cubic-foot DC refrigerator, two laptops, a TV/DVD player, and lights at night. However, it was not quite enough power to run all that plus our stand-alone 2.5-cubic-foot DC freezer during the short days and low sun angles of the winter months without supplemental charging from the engine alternator every few days. For the 10 weeks that we did not have a functioning alternator, our solution was to turn off the freezer, which enabled our batteries to reach full charge every afternoon.

Solar power made a world of difference in our cruise. Not only did it allow us to live comfortably and with ample electricity for weeks on end when our engine alternator went on the blink, but as a “set-it-and-forget-it” system, it also gave us the freedom to anchor out for as long as we wished without worrying about the batteries. In our eyes, the solar-panel arch enhanced the beauty and lines of our boat, giving her a sleek and clean appearance. It was true icing on the cake to discover that the panels and arch system also provided much-needed shade over the cockpit and helm from the hot tropical sunshine. If you are preparing for a cruise, consider turning to the sun for electricity and outfitting your sailboat with solar power.

The Installation:

Emily and Mark Fagan offer cruising tips and share their stories and photos on their website, roadslesstraveled.us . They are currently enjoying a land cruise across America aboard an RV.

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Yacht Solar Panel Arch (Do This)

If you are wondering how to add solar power to your sailboat, look no further. Inside we walk you through Yacht solar panel arch options, and we give you a few more pieces of information that are essential to this project. 

A sailboat or yacht solar panel arch is an aftermarket add-on for your boat. In short, it is a metal arch frame that attaches to the stern of the boat, where you would then attach solar panels.

Solar accessories, such as batteries, solar regulators, and inverters become housed in a water-tight cabinet above or below deck. 

Note :   Because of the force of winds and the corrosive nature of saltwater, stainless steel is the best material to use to build an arch. 

In this blog, we discuss

• What a sailboat arch kit is
• Determining solar need
• What to look for in a DIY kit or Solar panel kit for your boat
• Shading and what that means for solar energy production
• We also share a few essential tips along the way

Sailboat Arch Kit 

You have two options when it comes to a yacht solar panel arch installation. You can go with a kit, or you can go the DIY route. 

What are you looking at in terms of components for a sailboat arch installation?

Some of the information below will change as the boat gets larger. Generally, you want:

• 3 X 185-250 watt — 24volt solar panels . You can go more extensive on the wattage if you need to power more gadgets. On larger boats, you might have the space to add a fourth panel. If this is a DIY project, be sure to note the physical size of the panels, as that will dictate how many you can install on the arch. 
• Charge Controller with enough input ports to handle the wires for each solar panel . If you use three panels, the controller will need three input ports. If you use four panels, the controller will need four input ports. An MPPT charge controller works well for this application. 
• An inverter that will handle charging smaller gadgets
• A Battery Storage System with enough amp-hours to cover your power needs
• An arch kit to attach the solar panels and other gear is good. Some arch kits include all the above components, and others are just the arch. 

To figure out the size of the sailboat solar panel kit you need, calculate the electrical usage for things like:

• Computer laptop, and cellular charging or usage
• Entertainment such as music and TV or DVD
• You may also need power for things like radar, communication, etc. 

Other considerations include seasonal fluctuations for incoming solar radiation and the location of the boat. It is better to have more energy than you need than not enough.

Storms, cloudy days, and other shading events can cause a drop in power production. Storms or clouds can last for several days.

Solar Arch Cost & Options

There is a range in pricing for solar panel kits for a sailboat. Many are in the $2,500 range. It is more important to shop based on what you need rather than solely on price. Larger kits can cost above $10,000. 

Sailboat and yacht builders may have options if you are going for a custom boat build. As you consider the cost of a solar arch, focus on:

• Aesthetically pleasing design – The arch should fit the general style of your boat, not be an obvious add-on to it. 
• Durable — Boats take a beating in storms, high winds, rough seas, and other natural elements. The arch must be able to hold the solar panels firmly without warping or breaking. 
• Functional — The function of the arch is to look nice and hold the solar panels in place. Stainless steel is a good option over other metals, including aluminum. 
• Sealed — Not always an option but having the arch sealed against weather and water is a good investment. 

See also:   Solar Panels on Boats (Are They Worth It?)

Options for Solar Arches 

Solar arches can hold a lot more than solar panels. You can look for options in kits or have them built into a custom or DIY project. Those include

• Radar Risers — These can be permanently attached to the arch or designed for easy removal as needed. 
• Radar Pole — a taller version of the radar risers
• Wind Generator Pole — when you want to harness the power of the wind and include solar energy too. These can be permanently installed or added as a removable option. 
• Antenna Riser or Pole — You can opt for an antenna pole or riser when you need more clearance for your antenna. These can also be removable. 
• Davit Extension Arms for hanging a dinghy

What Is the Best Solar Arch Kit?

Figuring out which is the best solar arch kit for your boat is difficult to say. The best solar arch kit will differ based on your solar energy needs and the type of boat you have.

Larger boats tend to need more energy than would a smaller boat. A sailboat might need more panels than a yacht because the sails and masts can cause a shading effect.

Shading means that less sunlight falls on the panels, which decreases energy production. 

Also, since we are discussing shading on a sailboat, you would likely want microinverters over string inverters.

The reason is that when you have a string inverter if one panel becomes shaded, it causes the total output of energy to drop for all panels.

With microinverters, a single shaded panel would cause the energy from that panel to drop, not from all panels. 

You could apply this also to a yacht. However, it would not be the sails or mast that causes shading; it would more likely be something blocking the sun while moored at a dock. 

In terms of what is best for your boat, look for:

• Aesthetics 
• Stainless Steel for strength
• Options for add-ons that fit your needs and lifestyle
• Functionality 
• Options — You may not need risers or poles, but you may need them in the future, and it is an excellent option to have that ability now rather than paying someone to install them later or replace the solar arch. 
• Warranties — be sure to compare warranties to see if there are differences. Some repairs may be covered by insurance, but they can be better and less expensive in the long run if a warranty covers them. 

These variables will change from one boat to the next, but they help make it a more informed decision when choosing a solar arch kit for a yacht or sailboat. 

• Other Applications – Department of Energy
• Sportsman Boats – South Carolina Energy Office – SC.GOV
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• Green Power Equivalency Calculator – US Environmental …

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Since the introduction of the “Tower in a Box” Sail Arch in 2009, A thousand plus sailors have cruised tens of thousands of miles, carrying solar panels, tenders, wind generators, and every other type of gear imaginable on their Sail Arch. Truly the “swiss army knife” of marine structures, Cruising Sailors have taken this high quality, highly flexible, easily adjustable structure and adapted to their personal yachts and their personal needs. Now in answer to requests for a “Tower in a Box” Sail Arch that is large enough for Cruising Catamarans and large Monohulls, here comes the SUPER SAIL ARCH. The Super Sail Arch can handle over 1000* pounds of equipment, solar panels, and tender with outboard when the load is properly installed and distributed..

Universal Arch Makes Installations on Hundreds of Other Makes and Models Possible

*Ultimate working weight capacity off the structure is dependent on many factors all of which are variable, including the installed beam dimension, strength of the mounting areas on the yacht, pre-load, distribution of weight across the structure. Please consult with us regarding intended usage if you have any question about capacity

Available Options:

How is the Arch shipped to me? Although the Arch is not heavy it is too large to go by UPS. We have discounted freight arrangements with several trucking companies, which cover all 48 states and Canada. We can also ship to Alaska, Hawaii and any overseas city, call us for details. The Arch is packed in a single large cardboard carton and normally ships to a commercial address

What happens if my Arch is damaged in shipping? Atlantic Towers wants you to enjoy your boat, not spend the season chasing a freight claim. If your Arch arrives damaged, just refuse the shipment and we will send you a new one at no additional cost to you.

Can I return my Arch if I decide I don’t want to keep it? Atlantic will accept the return of any Standard Structure within 30 days of it’s receipt by you. Simply return the Structure in the original packaging in new condition freight pre-paid and we will refund the purchase price less a 10% restocking fee

**NOTE: There is a 10% re-stocking charge for cancelled or returned merchandise**

Due to our dedication to continued product improvement, we reserve the right to make changes without notice.

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Sailing with solar power: A practical guide

• Duncan Kent
• November 13, 2020

The latest solar technology makes self-sufficient cruising much more achievable. Duncan Kent gives the lowdown on everything you need to get your boat sorted

SOLAR POWER ON BOARD

Solar power is fast becoming the most popular and economic method of keeping the batteries charged on a boat.

Particularly now that the efficiency of photovoltaic (PV) panels, charge controllers and batteries is improving every day.

Furthermore, the latest technology in regulators and charge controllers has brought about a noticeable increase in useable power output, so the problems of shading and non-alignment can be compensated for more easily.

Not only has PV equipment become more efficient and cost-effective, but many of the modern devices we want to use on a boat have become less power hungry.

This means it is now far easier to provide your entire yacht’s electrical needs, both 220Vac and 12/24Vdc, from natural energy resources – particularly solar power, even if you are planning on a fully electric boat .

Thinking carefully about how much power you need and how much your boat can accommodate is key to planning a solar array. Credit: Graham Snook

WHAT DO YOU NEED?

For instance, a boat with two new, good quality, deep-cycle house batteries of 100Ah each would supply 100Ah of energy to consume between charges, if you only use the recommended 50% of available charge between each charge cycle to protect the batteries.

From this you could run:

• a modern 12Vdc fridge (approx. 1.5Ah, or 36Ah over 24hrs),
• all LED lighting (say 20Ah per day),
• various small device chargers (20Ah)
• and a number of other items such as water pumps, TVs and stereos (25Ah/day)
• Totalling around 100Ah.
• For this you’d need 400W of solar capacity.

Of course, if you like to run a lot of AC devices off-grid such as hair dryers, microwaves, toasters and the like, then you’re going to need a DC/ AC inverter, which will take you to another level in power consumption terms.

But even then, with careful planning, solar could provide a large portion of the power you need before resorting to engine charging or a generator.

THE AVAILABLE SPACE

In practical terms, a modern 40ft monohull would have the space for around 1,200W of PV panels (cockpit arch, sprayhood top, deck), maybe 1,500W with the addition of a few portable panels for use at anchor.

The 1,200W of fixed position solar array could produce around 360Ah on a sunny summer’s day (zero shading) or more likely 250Ah on the average UK summer’s day.

So that’s enough for your 100Ah general DC consumption plus another 150Ah of AC consumption via the inverter.

Of course, to do this you’ll most likely need to increase your battery capacity to around 400-500Ah for maximum flexibility (you’ll need to store as much as possible during daylight hours), a typical figure for a 40-50ft offshore cruising yacht these days.

Get your solar charging right and you may never need to hook up to shore power

Typical daily inverter loads for a cruising yacht off grid might be:

• induction cooking plate (20min) 60Ah
• microwave (15min) 30Ah
• coffee maker (20mins) 25Ah
• hair dryer (5min) 15Ah
• laptop charger (2h) 10Ah
• or around 140Ah in total.

The trick is to monitor the batteries’ state of charge (SOC) at all times and vary your use of the inverter to suit.

For example, you might want to cook supper mid-afternoon, when solar is in abundance, and then reheat it in the evening when you want to eat it.

In some cases, when you’re cruising in warm climates such as the Med, you might end up with excess charge from your solar panels .

In this situation, many long-term cruisers devise a method of ‘dumping’ the extra energy by heating water for showers.

Do bear in mind if you’re planning to live aboard full time , then it’ll be a whole different story on cloudy days and during the winter, when inverter use might need to be knocked on the head entirely.

Continues below…

Eco friendly sailing: Best practice for green yachting

How easy is it to go eco friendly sailing? We look at the steps cruisers can take to minimise their…

How and where to go wild cruising in the UK

Planning to spend the night away from crowded waters can 
be truly rewarding but preparation is essential before you go…

Solar-powered boat crosses Atlantic

Then heads to UN climate conference

POWER DISCREPANCIES

There’s often confusion as to how much power you can harvest from a solar installation.

A PV panel is nearly always advertised stating its theoretical peak output power (Pw).

But in reality, on a yacht where there are limited areas in which to mount them, they will more likely produce a maximum of 60% of their peak output if mounted horizontally, increasing to 80% if tilted towards the sun and regularly adjusted.

The latter is rarely achievable on a boat, however, as even at anchor it can swing through an arc of 180° in wind or tidal shifts .

Flexible panels can be mounted on sprayhoods or awnings to add power when it’s needed at anchor or in harbour

INSTALLATION

Having trawled through hundreds of ‘deals’ to get the best price on the most efficient panels you can afford you now need to know how to install them to best fulfill your energy generation needs.

The output, even from the highest quality photo-voltaic array, will only be as good as the installation itself.

So following our guidelines should ensure you extract every last drop of energy from your investment.

PANEL MOUNTING

Sailing boats are not the ideal structure on which to mount wide, flat PV panels.

So before you go ahead and purchase what looks like the biggest and best, take a few minutes to decide on exactly where you can mount them, as this will affect what size and type of panels you should buy.

In many cases the first choice would be on an arch, davits or gantry aft, especially if you already have, or plan to fit one.

Dinghy davits, particularly on multihulls, can support a huge solar capacity

These allow a solid metal framework to be constructed that will be strong enough to take the heavier, more productive rigid PV panels.

You can also build in some form of adjuster to the framework that will allow the panels to be orientated towards the sun for the best performance.

With luck (or careful planning) a gantry will also keep them aft of the boom, thereby eliminating loss of output caused by boom shading.

The next most popular position for mounting the panels is on a cockpit sprayhood or bimini, although this will often mean using the flexible or semi-flexible panels, which are generally less efficient than the rigid ones for the same area.

ELEVATED MOUNTING

Alternatively, there are kits available for mounting panels onto lifelines, which can allow their elevation to be manually adjusted to a certain degree.

Pole-mounted panels can be used for maximum adjustability

Finally, panels can be fitted directly onto the deck by either gluing them down using mastic or attaching them onto a rigid support frame.

Once again you will probably need to use semi-flexible panels – especially if the deck surface is curved.

Rigid, glass-coated panels will obviously not be suitable for deck mounting in an area that is frequently walked over.

Don’t be tempted to drill through the panels, even along the edges, as this will invalidate the warranty and possibly damage the panel.

With solid panels, the ability to adjust the angle can add significantly to output

It might seem obvious, but the key to an efficient system is to avoid shading wherever possible.

It’s no good fitting expensive, high-efficiency PVs right under the boom as they’ll perform little better than the cheaper types.

Saying that, in good quality panels each cell will be isolated from the next by a series of diodes (one-way electrical valves), so that if one cell is shaded at least it won’t drag down the other cells within the same panel.

Older panels often didn’t have these, so the slightest partial shading caused the output of the entire panel to cease.

OVERHEATING

Another important factor that is often ignored when installing the panels is that of overheating.

If a PV panel gets too hot, which is quite likely if mounted directly onto a flat surface without an air gap behind, its output will drop quite noticeably.

To allow for some air circulation behind the panels it’s best to apply mastic adhesive in numerous large dabs.

This is best achieved by placing wooden spacer strips between the dabs until the mastic has completely cured, after which the spacers can be removed.

You might need some form of trim around one or more of the outside edges, though, if they are positioned where sheets and other lines might get caught under them.

Raising the panels up will also help water to drain off and thereby helping to avoid possible delamination from sitting in water for too long.

CHARGE CONTROL

A PV module cannot supply an electrical device directly due to the changeability of the sunlight, which in turns varies the current it can produce.

Therefore, it has to be connected to a battery, which stores and smooths its output.

Whatever the size of your solar array you will need to fit a regulator, or charge controller as they are now more commonly known, to the system in order to control the output and to help extract as much power from the panels as possible.

There are two types of PV charge controller.

The older designs, called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) types, were fairly basic voltage regulators and simply output volts at just above battery level.

The latest controllers use Multi Power Point Tracking (MPPT) technology and can accept much higher input voltages (up to 240Vdc).

MPPT controllers can be up to 30% more efficient as they use the peak output of the panels to charge the batteries, even compensating for partial shading.

BEWARE FAKE GEAR

If you buy online do be careful to ensure you’re getting what you pay for.

There are a huge number of fake MPPTs out there, which are simply the much cheaper PWM dressed up with fake labels.

It’s hard to tell which is which, but the old adage of ‘if it looks too good to be true, it usually is’ makes good sense.

MPPT controllers are usually bigger and heavier than PWMs, but if in doubt call or email the supplier to discuss the pros and cons of their kit before buying.

If they’re not happy to chat and advise you then I would steer clear of their gear.

Some good MPPTs are made in China, but unless they have a UK supplier, I wouldn’t bother with them as you’ll have no follow-up advice.

To calculate what size controller you need simply divide the panel’s peak power in Watts (Wp) by the battery voltage, which will give you the maximum current (Amps) they could theoretically supply.

For example 240W/12V = 20A. Although it’s unlikely you’ll ever get near the peak output from any PV panel, it’s best to go for the maximum possible.

Induction cooking is now a reality on board, even without shore power

PV panels come with a short length of cable, usually around 1m long.

Some are supplied with MC4 connectors already attached but most only provide bare wires.

The latter can be easily extended using proper waterproof connections but thought must be given as to the current rating and voltage drop (usually max 3%) for the size of cable you intend to use.

If in doubt, bigger is better!

Panels can sometimes be ordered with the wiring on the back so that the cable can go straight below deck through a hole under the panel.

You may need to fit extra battery capacity if you want to run an inverter from solar charging

SERIES OR PARALLEL?

A commonly asked question is ‘should I wire my PV panels in series or in parallel?’

The simple answer is, if there’s any danger of frequent shading to one or more of the panels then install them in parallel.

If wired in series the shading of a single panel will drag down the output from all of the others in the same series.

PARALLEL IS PREFERRED

Most commonly, multiple panels are wired together in parallel to a single charge controller, with diodes protecting each panel from discharging the others should one become partially shaded.

With the advent of MPPT controllers, however, there can sometimes be a benefit to wiring two or more identical panels into a series bank, thereby presenting a higher voltage to the controller.

It’s worth noting that, like batteries, wiring PV panels in series increases the voltage only – the current capacity of the array remains the same as for a single panel.

‘Where’s the benefit of wiring them in series then?’ you might ask.

Well, the higher the voltage fed into the MPPT, the more consistent it will be with its output, which could, in some cases, prove more efficient than a parallel installation with PWM controllers.

It’s also likely to be necessary if you have a 24V domestic system.

SERIES WIRING

Series wiring is usually only done when the cable runs are long, as it helps negate the voltage drop caused by the resistance of the cable.

While a decent controller will have no problem handling the output from four or even five panels wired in series, it is often inappropriate for sailing yachts as shading just one of the panels will reduce the output of the entire series array.

If you need to do so in order to reduce cable runs then it’s best to split the panels between each side of the boat – a series bank on each side.

If you do this, then you would ideally fit a separate controller to each series PV bank and then connect their outputs together in parallel to the battery bank.

Note, however, that panels wired in series must all be the same types with an equal number of cells per panel.

Furthermore, the charge controller needs to be sized for the total of all panel voltages added together and the current rating of one individual panel.

Differently rated panels can be connected together in parallel but only if each panel has its own controller.

The outputs of the individual controllers can then be joined together to go to the battery bank.

BATTERY BANK QUESTION

Another frequently asked question is ‘Can I connect another charging source to the battery bank while the solar array is charging?’

The answer is yes.

Any decent PV controller will be protected against feedback from other charging sources.

Think carefully about where shade from mast, boom and rigging will fall. Credit: Graham Snook Photography

CABLE SIZE AND CONNECTORS

A frequent cause of reduced output from PV arrays is wiring that is too small.

The resistance of a wire conductor increases in direct proportion to its cross-sectional area, so go as big as is practicable for the least cable loss.

Each panel should be supplied with the correctly sized cables for its own maximum output.

But if you’re combining panels, either in parallel or in series, you will clearly need to rate the single feed cable to suit the maximum current available at theoretical peak solar output and to minimise voltage drop.

Likewise, the cable from the controller to the batteries should be sized to suit the controller’s maximum output current and protected with a fuse.

For outside it’s important to use exterior grade cable, which is double- insulated and UV-proof.

WEATHERPROOF CONNECTORS

And wherever possible use compatible weatherproof connectors (usually MC4) to those found on the panels rather than cutting off the plugs and hard-wiring them.

Field- assembly MC4 plugs are available, so you don’t have to drill large holes in the decks or bulkheads when feeding the cables through.

When joining more than one panel together try to use the approved multiway connectors; not only do they keep the wiring neat and tidy, but they also offer a greater contact area than budget terminal blocks.

If you have to use screw-type connectors make sure to fit proper ferrules to the wire first to avoid any stray wires in the multistrand shorting across the terminals.

When feeding a cable from above to below deck, try to go through an upright bulkhead where possible to minimise ‘pooling’ of water around the access hole.

Also, use a proper watertight deck seal that matches the cable you’re using.

If drilling through a cored deck you need to drill a larger hole first, fill it with epoxy resin and then drill the required size hole through the epoxy to ensure no water gets into the deck core.

Ideally, the charge controller should be mounted no further than 2m from the battery bank.

If you need to go further, you’ll require larger cabling to reduce the voltage drop.

A generous solar array will keep you self- sufficient indefinitely. Credit: Graham Snook Photography

CONTROLLER LOAD TERMINALS

There is often confusion over the ‘load’ output of a charge controller (often depicted by a light bulb) and what can safely be connected to these terminals.

Rarely explained in the manual, the load terminals should be pretty much ignored in a marine installation as the output on these terminals is usually very limited (10A max).

Some attach an LED light to them to indicate the controller is operating, but all your usual electrical loads should remain connected to the batteries with the battery terminals on the controller connected directly to that battery bank via a fuse.

It is possible, though, to control a high-current switching relay in certain conditions.

Parallel installation is more resilient to shading, but a series installation will increase peak charging outputs. A combination of the two offers some of the benefit of both

CIRCUIT MONITORING

Unlike most cheap PWMs, the majority of good quality MPPT charge controllers come with an alphanumeric LCD screen to let you know what is going on.

This can either be a remote display or simply one on the front of the box.

It’s obviously a lot better to have a proper numerical display than to rely on a few flashing LEDs to tell you when something’s not right.

So if your chosen controller doesn’t have one be sure to fit a battery monitor (the shunt type) into your solar circuit between the controller and the batteries.

It doesn’t have to be a very ‘smart’ monitor, just one that can display the voltage and current being supplied by the panels.

For smartphone addicts there are several wifi apps that will do the job remotely on your phone or tablet.

DEVICE PROTECTION

All good quality PV panels feature built-in diode protection between each cell to prevent a shaded cell from dragging down the productive ones.

In addition, there will be internal blocking diodes on the final output to protect the panel from polarity reversal and to ensure that the batteries can’t discharge back into the panel during the night.

The latter can be added externally, the former can’t, so check before you buy.

A fuse, rated just above the maximum current available, should be fitted between each panel and the charge controller.

Another fuse should then be installed between the charge controller’s output and the batteries.

In the case of multiple arrays, this second fuse will be rated higher than the individual panel fuses and should match the maximum current rating of the cable.

With this protection installed other charging devices can be connected in parallel at the battery, meaning the solar can be left connected even when you are hooked up to shore power and the battery charger is operating.

In some circumstances, however, this arrangement can affect the sensing of the battery by the charger, causing it to fall back into float mode.

If this becomes apparent it can be overcome by installing a manual/auto switch to disconnect the solar array when on shore power.

Check the flex of the solar panel is sufficient for your deck

EXCESS POWER DUMPING

A solar charge controller works by disconnecting the supply from the PV panels when the batteries are fully charged.

But for some full-time liveaboards in sunny climates that can be considered a waste, when the excess power could be put to good use – heating water, say.

This is commonly done using an inverter to supply AC power to the heating element.

Alternatively, you can now buy a 12Vdc element for your calorifier (hot water tank) and supply this directly from your battery bank.

Both of these methods would require a voltage sensitive relay (VSR) to disconnect the element should the battery voltage drop below a pre-set level.

Don’t expect boiling hot water, as there will probably only be enough spare power to take the chill off it before your battery bank reaches its lower threshold voltage.

A 600W/12V element will draw some 50A, from the batteries, whereas a 1kW AC element run through an inverter will need close to 100A.

A small, semi-flexible panel will be sufficient for keeping batteries trickle charged, but not for heavy use

RIGID, FLEXIBLE, OR SEMI FLEXIBLE?

Despite massive recent improvements in semi-flexible panels in recent years, the solid glass panels still offer a higher power density.

That said, they are heavier, more awkward to mount and can’t be walked on, so unless you have a dedicated gantry aft, you’re better off choosing the more rugged semi-flexibles.

Modules incorporating monocrystalline cells also have a better output than those with polycrystalline cells (that’s cells made from a single slice of silicon as opposed to layers of smaller pieces).

Output voltage also depends on the number of cells on the panel.

In the past this has commonly been 32, but now some 36 and even 40 cell panels are available.

That said, they’re larger, of course, so an array of interconnected smaller panels might be a better solution.

Module efficiency is now more often around the 20% mark, as opposed to 12-15% for older models and semi- flexible (up to 20° bend) are usually better than flexible (up to 180° bend).

A rigid panel is more efficient, but less robust

There are a huge number of panels on the market, but many use the same cells.

Sunpower Maxeon cells are exceptionally good, as are the Panasonic HIT range and LG, but they are pricey.

If the maker is offering a 25-year guarantee instead of a 3-5 year one, you can be pretty confident they’re good.

When it comes to charge controllers it’s definitely worth paying a little more for a decent MPPT.

A cheap PWM might be okay just to keep a small starter battery charged with a 30W panel, but the MPPT will give you much more when it comes to heavy service.

Victron are probably top of the range, while cheaper brands like MakeSkyBlue and EPever are also good value – but treat imports of unclear origin with care.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Duncan Kent has been evaluating and reviewing yachts and marine equipment for the past 30 years

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Solar Arches for sailboats

Our solar arches are based on a so-called parametric model. This means that the basic design is fixed, while still allowing us to adjust dimensions to meet the requirements of a specific boat. Below are some of the parameters we adjust to meet the requirements of a specific boat and wishes of the boat's owner: ​  

The width of the arch (1,5 m - 4,5 m) Suitable for most sailboats between 25 and 55 feet

The height of the arch (1,2 m - 2,5 m)

Forward legs offset, meaning how much you want the forward legs spread out to the sides, relative to the aft legs

Height of horizontal cross-tubes

Length of and distance between davits  

Product specs

Polished corrosion reistant stainless steel, AISI 316, 40 mm diameter, 2 mm material thickness.

Polished corrosion resistant stainless steel, AISI 316, circular, 10 mm thickness, 100 mm diameter, three bolt holes.

Hollow, which allows for cabling inside tubes and all the way down through the deck.

Backing plates

Corrosion resistant stainless steel, AISI 316, circular, 100 mm diameter, three bolt holes to match holes in the feet.

Stainless steel, polished, 40 mm diameter tubes, 2 mm thickness

Large hole in the center for running cables

5,900 EUR  incl. VAT* *Base solar arch only Full support during installation

Lasercut AISI 316 Stainless Steel

The tubes for the solar arch are cut from high quality AISI 316 stainless steel tubes using precision laser cutting machines.

We will keep you updated

3d model .

Before your arch is even built you will be able to see a 3D model of it. Not a generic model, but YOUR solar arch with your specifications and measurements.

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Arch for solar panel

• Thread starter Sailorlass
• Start date Feb 10, 2013
• Catalina Owner Forums
• Catalina 310

Any design ideas for an arch from the pushpit to hold one or two solar panels please? We will probably use 1" stainless to match all the other stainless. Photos would be a great help. Our 310 is hull number 326. Wonderful boat!  

Sailorlass said: Any design ideas for an arch from the pushpit to hold one or two solar panels please? We will probably use 1" stainless to match all the other stainless. Photos would be a great help. Our 310 is hull number 326. Wonderful boat! Click to expand

JK_Boston_Catalina310

Here are a couple of photos. One is just the arch from the existing stern rail. The other is a full arch mounted to the deck and has davits. You could also go with an arch like these , they have put them on C350's but I don't think any C310's yet.  

Attachments

I once priced s/s arches. Around 3,000-5,000 dollars before solar panels, etc. I decided to go with davits with the panel mounted on them. Turns out to work very well for us. Total cost was less than $2,000, including panel, controller, mounting hardware, etc.  

Tom, Which davits did you go with? Do you have any photos showing the base? Thanks Jesse  

Jesse, I went with Mar-Tek davits. Reasonable cost and plenty strong enough for my Walker Bay 8 plus the solar panel. Unfortunately, most of my photos are in my old PC, which has crashed. I will enclose photos of the supports I put under the quarter perches. The base of the davits is similar, but round. It will adjust to any angle, and fits perfectly on the transom, just aft of the stern rail. I submitted an article about our davit/solar panel setup to Mainsheet magazine in the March 2012 edition.  

Thank you all so much, suddenly a range of options we hadn't considered. We tend to only use the bimini when it is really hot and as we are able to sail right through the year here in New Zealand, we will probably explore the Martek davits. We have a 2.4 Zodiac RIB with a 3.5hp o/b, I'd better get some idea of the weights involved. Whether we would still need to carry the o/b on the stern rail? We could go for a lighter solar panel, we'd like to be able to get about 160 watts up there. So, food for thought. Any further suggestions would be most welcome! I hope you are surviving your winter, sounds miserable. Hate to rub it in but we are having a fantastic summer down here. Come and visit! Thanks again, Adrien  

Hi Tom, You don't by any chance have a copy of your article you could email to me please? [email protected]  

Thanks Tom  

JK Boston How are you supporting you dinghy in the photo where she is flipped up at the stern? I have been looking for a good way to store mine on the 310 when at dock? When I travel the dinghy is in the water or on deck, but need a nice way (read cheap) to get it out of the water during the week, and not increase my over all length at the slip. Look forward to your responce. Thanks Russ s/v Long Story  

Unfortunately, that is not my boat. That is a boat that Stu saw and posted photos on another thread . I believe those are something like Weaver Snap Davits , more commonly used on power boats, but I think I am going with this plan for my boat.  

Sailorlass said: Hi Tom, You don't by any chance have a copy of your article you could email to me please? [email protected] Click to expand

Tom, That would be great, thanks. Adrien.  

Hi Russ, Tom, Stu, JK and others, Oceania(photos in some of your posts) is actually our boat and much to our embarrassment and horror was dinged. Neither boat saw the other. We had all the stainless from the port side ripped out, pulpit torn off at the bow, port pushpit destroyed and our arch carrying two 80watt solar panels torn off on the port side. Port stanchions pulled out, broken or bent and some of the stb ones bent out of shape. The lifelines held it all, plus o/b, from disappearing to the bottom of Queen Charlotte Sound and we limped back into port and untangled the mess. Not pretty! Minimal fibreglass damage in the scheme of things, just where the other yacht rode up across our toe rail and where all the stainless fittings pulled out. We have never been terribly happy with the design of the arch, so are thinking about alternatives, and there is the issue of the inflatable, we normally tow it or carry it on the foredeck. In the photo Stu and JK posted we had the dinghy lashed to the stern rail as we were not carrying the outboard. I thought it worked well, but he who must be obeyed was not keen. Our thoughts are Weaver davits, plus an arch, but is there room for the outboard on the stern rail? Or, conventional davits with a solar panel on top, but do they put us into a longer, ie more expensive category for a berth? Also, handling with that extra weight out the back? Lots of pondering going on so your input has been invaluable. Thank you all. If you are ever heading down this way, get in touch, [email protected] There is usually a bed in Christchurch and the offer of a sail in the Marlborough Sounds, once we have our beloved back together again. Adrien.  

Sailorlass said: Hi Russ, Tom, Stu, JK and others, Oceania(photos in some of your posts) is actually our boat and much to our embarrassment and horror was dinged. Neither boat saw the other. We had all the stainless from the port side ripped out, pulpit torn off at the bow, port pushpit destroyed and our arch carrying two 80watt solar panels torn off on the port side. Port stanchions pulled out, broken or bent and some of the stb ones bent out of shape. The lifelines held it all, plus o/b, from disappearing to the bottom of Queen Charlotte Sound and we limped back into port and untangled the mess. Not pretty! Minimal fibreglass damage in the scheme of things, just where the other yacht rode up across our toe rail and where all the stainless fittings pulled out. We have never been terribly happy with the design of the arch, so are thinking about alternatives, and there is the issue of the inflatable, we normally tow it or carry it on the foredeck. In the photo Stu and JK posted we had the dinghy lashed to the stern rail as we were not carrying the outboard. I thought it worked well, but he who must be obeyed was not keen. Our thoughts are Weaver davits, plus an arch, but is there room for the outboard on the stern rail? Or, conventional davits with a solar panel on top, but do they put us into a longer, ie more expensive category for a berth? Also, handling with that extra weight out the back? Lots of pondering going on so your input has been invaluable. Thank you all. If you are ever heading down this way, get in touch, [email protected] There is usually a bed in Christchurch and the offer of a sail in the Marlborough Sounds, once we have our beloved back together again. Adrien. Click to expand

Hi Jesse, We chuckled seeing pics of Oceania too! The rib is a 2.4 Zodiac and we did sail with it lashed to the stern rail like that. Handled fine but never tried it in a decent blow or following sea. I imagine it would be ok if you lashed it high enough. We used to get the side of the dinghy onto the swim platform. Better than having it turning cartwheels behind us in the wind if we were not in shelter and having to fight it onto the foredeck. Same idea as the Weaver davits really, probably more trouble to lash it into place and then the issue of the o/b. The flexible solar panels on the bimini is a great idea, very neat. Much cheaper too than an arch. Our dilemma is we seldom have the bimini out, especially in the winter when we need the power. Good luck with the Caribbean plan, what a great scheme. Hope it comes off. We spend most of the summer in the Marlborough Sounds and it is a stunning life style. Pottering from bay to bay with the odd longer trip thrown in, brilliant, love it. Regards Adrien.  

Adrien, We, too, have had the inflatable doing cartwheels in the air behind us, only to have it land upside-down on the water, and then submerge to the bottom of the bay! The dinghy survived, but that convinced us to look into some kind of davit setup. Initially, I researched arches that would accommodate davits and a solar panel. A local welder on the Gulf coast of Florida had fabricated some robust arches (s/s) that looked great. But I was concerned about the initial cost and the weight of the arch. So we went with the davits and solar panel, and we like it. Yes, there is some concern about weight aft of the transom, but we carry 100' of chain in the anchor locker, and with the water tank full, she rides level on her lines with the dinghy on the davits. We store our 3.3 Mercury o/b 2-stroke on the stern rail at the starboard quarter perch, since the bow of the dinghy is on that side, and there is plenty of room for the o/b. We do lose the use of the perch while the o/b is stowed. We have sailed with the dinghy on the davits, and haven't noticed any adverse effects. But then, we are cruisers, not racers, so as long as we get from A to B, we are happy. I'm sorry to hear about the damage to your boat. A frightening experience for everyone, I'm sure. Here's hoping you get her sailing soon. Let us know how everything goes. Good luck, Tom  

Hi Tom, Thanks for all that detail. Good to know about the weight. We have 50 metres of anchor chain so that should more than compensate. We are cruisers also. Incidentally, our next project was to put a hatch from the head into the port locker, to get more use from that space. So good to read of your exploits with that. You guys are just being so much help over all this. Only know of one other 310 here in the South Island, though there must be others. There are now several of our big sisters in the Waikawa marina which is company, not that we have got ourselves organised to sail together, yet. Have a good weekend. Adrien.  

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Top 3 Best Solar Panels For Sailboats

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

Choosing whether or not to install solar panels on your sailboat is a big decision. They are not exactly cheap, though they can start to pay themselves off pretty quickly.

This article is going to cover not only why you might want to use solar panels but all the benefits they provide. You will also find a helpful guide on which solar panels would be best for you and your budget. Hopefully, by the end, you will feel confident in your decision to install solar panels on your sailboat and even have an idea of which ones you might like.

Table of contents

Are solar panels on sailboats necessary?

Whether or not you should be installing solar panels on your boat is a matter of choice, not out of necessity. Sailboats get their power from the wind, by harnassing it in their sail. So if you plan to be sailing for the afternoon you probably don’t need solar panels.

You could charge a battery pack from the marina and that will probably see you through several trips. The problems only really start to arise if you are planning to be on your sailboat for longer periods, or even permanently. If you plan to live on your sailboat year-round, even if you spend 80% of it in a marina, you would be better off with some solar panels. Even if it is just as a backup source of power.

Are solar panels on boats safe?

Solar panels are generally pretty safe. They have no moving parts and typically have a very strong protective cover over them so you never come in contact with the electrics themself. So, as a source of power, they are generally pretty safe. The only time they may become unsafe is if they are badly damaged.

Solar panels are often covered by glass plating that keeps them safe. It also helps them absorb sunlight and warmth. This is great, except when the glass breaks. If the glass protective cover on your solar panels should crack and splinter you are at risk of serious injury from sharp shards of glass. Not only is the glass itself dangerous at this point, so are the electronic components inside. They have powerful currents running through them, and if you come in contact with them you may be in for a shock.

Furthermore, if these electronics get wet they can become deadly. Electricity and water do not mix well at all. Being as you are on a sailboat, at sea, the chances of them getting wet is very high. Luckily, the chances of them breaking in the first place are slim to none. The only real way they would break, besides vandalism, is by debris hitting them during a bad storm. There is not often debris at sea, so this shouldn’t be too much of a problem.

What are the benefits of having solar panels on a sailboat?

There are so many great benefits of having solar panels on a sailboat. They can be a lifesaver if you find yourself at sea for a long time. There benefits range from trivial comforts to being the difference between life and death. Here are some of the benefits you might not have considered about having solar panels installed on your sailboat.

Money-saving

Solar panels are not cheap, it is far cheaper to just run a generator or charge your batteries from the marina the whole time. At least, it is in the short term. Over time, it can start to become very expensive. With solar panels, you are looking at a big initial cost (the solar panels themself) and then it’s smooth sailing. You don’t need to pay for power again. Solar panels last for about 40 years before they start to become too inefficient at producing power. The cost of a few solar panels upfront compared to 40 years of marina fees and gasoline for a generator is the financially savvy move.

Emergency power

If you find yourself at sea, the wind dies down (or becomes too strong), and you find yourself stuck bobbing around waiting for more favorable conditions you may run into trouble. Depending on how long you are out there, you may find yourself with dead electronics. Be it a satellite phone, radio, or secondary engine (depending on the boat). Having a set of solar panels and a power bank can be a genuine lifesaver in these situations.

Comfort amenities

Whether you are day sailing or making a week-long voyage, having access to the comforts in life can make the whole journey so much more enjoyable. The amenities may not be available to you without having a constant source of power at sea. Having access to a kettle, tv, videogame system, radio or microwave oven may be the only thing keeping you going at rougher times. As exciting as sailing can be, when you aren’t sailing and are just bobbing around it can be quite dull. The sea is beautiful, but there is only so much time you can spend looking at the water before you miss the comforts of land. With solar panels, you can bring those comforts with you.

Eco-friendly

There are only two alternatives to solar panels. A gasoline generator, and taking power from the grid. Neither of these is good for the environment. Luckily, solar panels are a great third option. Solar panels are completely eco-friendly and are great for the environment. This is not just great for the earth, and your conscience, but for the journey itself. If you are running a gasoline generator at sea you are going to be listening to it thrumming away and smell the burning gasoline. Wouldnt you prefer silence and nothing but the smell of the sea breeze?

How much do solar panels cost?

How much solar panels cost is almost entirely tied into both their voltage/wattage and whether or not they are portable panels. Portable solar panels are great for people who don’t spend a lot of time on their boat or are happy enough living off the marina’s power grid. Permanent solar panels, the kind that may need to professionally installed, can end up costing far more. They are also likely to be far superior and you can pretty much forget about them once they are installed.

Portable solar panels will cost just a few hundred dollars each. You will need a few to be sustainable, but that’s not going to be much of a problem. These portable solar panels can just be rolled out on the deck of your boat, weighed down, and then hooked up to a battery pack. The battery itself here is going to be the most expensive part of the whole set up. A decent-sized battery could set you back a $1000. But, when charged fully it will last days. Even with constant use.

Permanently installed solar panels can cost one or two thousand dollars in some cases. The advantage here though is once they are installed that’s it, you can forget about them. You don’t have to put them up, take them down, and find somewhere to stow them every time they need using. They too will need to be hooked up to a battery, the battery is still only going to cost you $1000. If you are installing permanent solar panels because you plan to be making long voyages, it is ideal to have two or perhaps even three large batteries hooked up to your boat. One to run off, one or two for emergencies.

How do I maintain my solar panels?

Solar panels, unlike gasoline generators, are generally pretty easy to maintain. They have no moving parts and are thus pretty self-sufficient. They don’t need taking apart and they last as long as 40 years. That being said, if they do break they need repairing as soon as possible. The exposed electrics can be deadly when water is thrown into the mix. Which, on a boat, is almost always. The glass cover will need replacing and the electronics inside may need repairing, though not always. Don’t ever attempt to do this yourself unless you are experienced at making these repairs. The cost of hiring someone to do it for you is preferable to being dead. Solar panels have very powerful electric currents, that when in contact with water and yourself can be fatal. As mentioned above, these panels rarely break so you will likely not ever run into this problem. If you do, hire a contractor.

Do my solar panels need cleaning?

Solar panels work by converting the light and heat of the sun into useable power. The process itself is rather complicated but the results are simple to understand. That being said, there are some reasons that your solar panels will stop working as effectively. They all revolve around a lack of sunlight. It could be because it is night time. It could be because it is very cloudy. Or, it could be because they are dirty. If solar panels become too dusty, dirty, and become too covered in grime they stop operating at maximum efficiency. This is not as much of a problem at sea, the sea spray stops dust settling. The biggest thing you will need to clean off your solar panels is salt build-up and slime. This is easy enough to do with some warm soapy water. Freshwater, not seawater. You want to be removing as much salt as possible. Salt is corrosive to electronics, so removing it is important. Never clean your solar panels using pressure washers as they can crack the glass.

Which are the best solar panels for sailing?

There are so many options on the market at various price points. Here are three very different options that will all make good choices, depending on your needs. It is important to consider not just price but power output. Spending a lot of money on solar panels now might not feel ideal, but it is the most cost-effective decision.

1. Renogy Starter Kit

This starter kit is going to be perfect for installing on almost any sized boat. There are four solar panels, each can be fitted permanently to the boat. They can be mounted (and unmounted) easily, for your convenience. They do require a flat surface, but they are small enough that that likely won’t be too much of a problem. This starter kit is very middle of the pack price-wise but should provide enough power for a small to medium-sized vessel easily. It is also possible to buy extra panels individually should you need them.

Wattage: 400/4 (100 per panel)

2. Nature Power Rigid

The nature power rigid is a large, powerful, single solar panel. If you are looking for the right panels to power your entire boat comfortably, these are the ones for you. They are very large so they will need a large flat surface area. alternatively, they can be hung vertically from rails. This is an inefficient way of using them, so you would need to buy more this way. Nature power makes various solar panels so you could find some smaller ones of the same brand to supplement it. This one is not so easy to install, you might need to hire someone to install it for you.

Wattage: 165

3. Nature Power Monocrystalline

Nature power makes a portable solar panel that fits inside a special briefcase. It is perfect for stowing away easily and only taking it out when it is needed. It is decently powerful considering its portable, but there is the inconvenience factor of having to set it up each time. If you planned to buy the nature power rigid, buying one of these portable panels might be ideal for supplementing your power supply when it is especially sunny. Though, it may be cheaper for you to just fit more of the Nature Power Rigids.

Wattage: 120

Hopefully, you now have a good idea about whether solar panels would be right for you and your sailboat. Sailing is great, but the lack of power at sea can be dreadfully boring. Luckily, there are so many great options available on the market. Not just the ones mentioned above. Buying a solar panel is an investment, the initial cost is minor compared to the steady return from all the savings you will make.

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Sailboat refit: installing a stainless steel arch for solar panels and dinghy davits #33

Special thanks to Anders, who made it possible for us to purchase this arch (and therefore make this video) by giving us his old radar. Without it, we would have had to replace our entire marine electronics setup and would not have had the budget for this refit! Stuart’s contact details (Arcglow Inox Almerimar): http://www.arcglowinoxalmerimar.com/ In this episode, we install a stainless steal arch at the back of Polar Seal. We go through design alternatives, the construction process and finally the installation of the arch. Our arch support 610 Watts of solar array, a bar for our antennas and davits for our dinghy. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ** JOIN THE CREW! ** Join our virtual crew of Patrons at: https://www.patreon.com/ryanandsophiesailing ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ** GEAR ** ⛵️Our boat: Polar Seal, 2007 Beneteau Oceanis 40, owners version (2 cabins layout). Full tour and review of Polar Seal at: https://youtu.be/sxqKYydlxd0 🎥 Photo & Film gear Our camera: https://amzn.to/2KyC8mi Image stabilizing lens: https://amzn.to/2Kiq89i Our microphone: https://amzn.to/2Ix8MQd Microphone windjammer: https://amzn.to/2KeEmYS Our action camera: https://amzn.to/2Ky8IBS Our drone: https://amzn.to/2tDjRdU ⚠️ Disclosure: Some of the links above are affiliate links. As a friend of Ryan & Sophie Sailing, you allow us to earn a small commission if you make a purchase through our affiliate links! We only disclose links for products that we use and love, and believe you will love too. If you shop on Amazon, you can support this channel at no cost by using the link: https://www.amazon.com/?tag=ryansophiesai-20 Thank you for supporting this channel! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ** LINKS 🖇** http://www.ryanandsophie.com // Videos, stories, photos and other goodies of our travel and sailing adventure https://www.facebook.com/ryanandsophiesailing | Short stories and videos of our life onboard. https://www.instagram.com/ryan_and_sophie_sailing | Sweet photos of our sailing and the places we visit. https://www.twitter.com/ryan_and_sophie | Ask us short questions, get fast answers! https://www.patreon.com/ryanandsophiesailing | Where you become a member of our virtual crew! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ** SUPPORT THIS CHANNEL FOR FREE! 🙌🏻 ** 🛒 If you shop with Amazon, you can support us at no cost to you by using this link: https://www.amazon.com/?tag=ryansophiesai-20 You pay the same and Amazon gives us a little share of their profit, which helps us. We really appreciate your support! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ** CONTACT 📬 ** Say hi, ask us a question or send us feedback at: 📩 [email protected] Life is short: • Meet someone on Tinder 📱👫 • Quit your job👩🏻‍💻 • Sell your apartment 🏡 • Buy a boat ⛵️💸💸💸 • Go sail the world 🔜🌍

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Best Solar Panels For Sailboats of 2024

Sailing uses the power of the wind to move, so why not use the power of the sun to charge your batteries? Solar panels offer the best way to charge boat batteries. This method can also save the engine from being used just for charging. Getting the best solar panels for sailboats means choosing the right size and power for your boat.

But, how much power will you need? Will your panels be able to keep up even on cloudy days? Do you plan to sail in cold water or deep in the tropics? Do you need the panels to sit on a curved surface? There’s a surprising amount of factors to consider when purchasing sailboat solar panels.

Whether you’re replacing old panels or buying for the first time, let us do the hard work of comparing the best solar panels for your boat.

For more of our top sailing gear recommendations, check out the Best Wind Generators for Sailboats . 

QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST SOLAR PANELS FOR SAILBOATS 

• Nature Power Monocrystalline
• Nature Power Rigid
• Renogy Starter Kit (4 panels)
• Newpowa Poly Solar Panel
• Acopower Polycrystalline
• Nature Power 90W Rigid
• Newpowa 150W
• Suaoki SunPower
• Eco-Worthy Semi-Flexible

SAILBOAT SOLAR PANEL REVIEWS

Nature power monocrystalline.

Check out the latest price on: Amazon  | West Marine

BEST FOR: Efficient high-power use

WEIGHT: Unspecified

WATTS/AMPS: 120W/6.6A

SIZE: 45.1” x 33.6” x 3”

PROS: Foldable for easy storage and portability, pop-out legs that allow it to easily sit at an angle, sturdy design

CONS: On the upper end of the price spectrum, short warranty

NATURE POWER RIGID

BEST FOR: Energy-hungry boats

WATTS/AMPS: 165W/9.4A

SIZE: 57.8” x 26.3” x 1.4”

PROS: Powerful and efficient, scratch resistant and anti-reflective coating, well-built aluminum frame, easy-to-use connections

CONS: Powerful but expensive, only suitable for larger boats with a big flat space to set it up on

RENOGY STARTER KIT (PACK OF 4 PANELS)

Check out the latest price on: Amazon

BEST FOR: Large boats needing lots of power

WEIGHT: 18.0lbs

WATTS/AMPS: 400W/22A

SIZE: 4 x 47.0” x 21.3” x 2.0”

PROS: Includes x4 100W panels along with a charge controller and everything else needed to set up, ideal for sailors looking for a lot of power, easy mounting system, great price for a comprehensive kit

CONS: Rigid solar panels can only be on flat surfaces or mounted on rails, included charge controller might not be the charge controller for your needs

NEWPOWA POLY SOLAR PANEL

BEST FOR: Keeping small battery banks topped up

WEIGHT: 6.3lbs

WATTS/AMPS: 30W/1.7A

SIZE: 27.0” x 14.3” x 1.9”

PROS: Sturdy design, small and slim making it ideal for stern rail, wattage should be enough to trickle-charge medium battery banks, very affordable

CONS: Rigid design means placement is limited, heavy for a small panel

ACOPOWER POLYCRYSTALLINE

BEST FOR: Larger sailboat trickle-charging

WEIGHT: 6.9lbs

WATTS/AMPS: 35W/2A

SIZE: 29.9” x 16.1” x 1.7”

PROS: Looks neat with silver aluminum frame, should be able to easily keep batteries topped up and contribute to energy requirements when boat is in use, very affordable and slim, other wattages available

CONS: Weighty, aluminum frames can have sharp corners

NATURE POWER 90W RIGID

Check out the latest price on: West Marine

BEST FOR: Permanent mounting

WEIGHT: 15.2lbs

WATTS/AMPS: 90W/4.9A

SIZE: 33.7” x 26.5” x 1.0”

PROS: Sturdy frame can be mounted on gantry rails permanently, good power output and small enough to be mounted alongside an identical panel for double power, long warranty, reputable brand

CONS: Awkward to move about the deck so not ideal for portable panel, fairly heavy

NEWPOWA 150W

BEST FOR: Medium to large sailboats

WEIGHT: 24.4lbs

WATTS/AMPS: 150W/8.3A

SIZE: 58.4” x 26.6” x 1.2”

PROS: Great for permanent mounting, powerful and well-built,

CONS: Very heavy, only comes with 3ft of cable which may well be too short and require extension

SUAOKI SUNPOWER

BEST FOR: Smaller, lightweight sailboats

WEIGHT: 4.8lbs

WATTS/AMPS: 100W/5.6A

SIZE: 43.3” x 22.4” x 0.1”

PROS: 30-degree curve possible making this ideal for boat coach roofs, very thin makes for less dirt buildup and less wind resistance, good price for a powerful panel

CONS: Cable connections are on the top of the panel which may encourage corrosion and UV damage

ECO-WORTHY SEMI-FLEXIBLE

BEST FOR: Coach roofs and curved deck areas

WATTS/AMPS: 100W/5.5A

SIZE: 47.4” x 21.6” x 0.1”

PROS: Capable of a 30-degree curve making it suitable for coach roofs and curved decks, thin and durable construction

CONS: Connector on top allowing salt build-up and accidental damage

COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST SOLAR PANELS FOR SAILBOATS 

How to choose the best solar panels for sailboats, 1. required energy.

Buying solar panels for your sailboat involves more than going over a few models at random. You need to know how much power you’ll need daily. Also, you need to determine whether you will rely solely on solar power or use the engine as well.

SOLAR AND ENGINE

Will you use solar power most of or all the time? If yes, then you will need higher power, larger or more solar panels. If you plan to use the engine more, then you won’t need as much solar power.

Your sailing goals come into play in this decision. If you want to cruise the intercoastal waterways, chances are you’ll be using your engine a lot. If you plan on cruising the Caribbean, you can often rely on good winds for sailing.

Once you’ve worked out how you plan on powering your sailboat – solar and engine, or just solar – you’ll need to work out your daily amp draw . If you’ll be running a fridge, freezer, water maker, VHF and SAT NAV all day long, you’re definitely going to need a lot of power!

It can be difficult to determine how many amps your sailboat will need, especially if you still don’t have all the electronics you plan to bring on board. Some products will give you an idea of their power draw in their technical specifications. For others that don’t provide that information, you may have to settle for an estimate.

Once you have an idea of your daily amp draw, then you can work out the solar output required to keep up with that power draw. But there are other considerations too, namely, actual output vs maximum output.

ACTUAL OUTPUT VS MAXIMUM OUTPUT

While a 90W solar panel might sound like it’ll give out 90W, remember that this is its maximum output. That is, it refers to a clean panel in full sunshine. It won’t be giving anywhere near that output on cloudy days. In the case of a fixed panel, ask yourself if the sail will be casting a shadow over it on one tack.

Unless you plan on running the engine to top up the batteries on cloudy days, you will find yourself needing enough solar panel output for these times. Make sure to also consider the times when your panels aren’t giving out their optimum performance.

TEMPERATURE CHANGES

If you’re starting in Nova Scotia, your fridge won’t take much power to keep it at a cool temperature. But, what happens when you sail south to go diving in Mexico ? Suddenly, the water temperature is higher and the fridge would have to work twice as hard to stay cool. While good insulation is a bonus on a sailboat, it’s important to remember that atmospheric changes like temperature may mean an increase (or decrease) in your power requirement.

ARE WE TALKING AMPS OR WATTS?

While you need to know how many amps your sailboat will draw on a daily basis, solar panels are sold by watts. There’s no need for that to be confusing though, as we’ve also provided the amps in the chart. You can read more about watts and amps to get a better understanding.

2. HOW MANY SOLAR PANELS DO YOU NEED?

Many sailboats have more than one solar panel. This means you won’t need to move the panels to follow the sun or as the boat shifts at anchor. Having multiple solar panels also allows you to have smaller panels, which tend to get in the way less. Your required power output can be divided among them as well.

If you need 200W a day, then you could have three 90W solar panels on different parts of the boat and be covered power-wise, even on different tacks.

How much space do you have on deck? Where you place your solar panels is very boat and sailor dependent. Day-sailing in hot places? Solar panels on the bimini rack are an easy solution. Long-distance cruising? You’ll need solar panels that are efficient yet out of the way to improve windward performance.

If you spend a large amount of time on board, your energy consumption will be higher. You’ll need your solar panels to be as efficient as possible. Many cruisers have panels on top of gantries on the stern to keep them in sunshine all the time. This is terrible for sailing performance, so you have to think about where you want to compromise. Don’t forget to consider the other on-deck items, such as your paddle board , as well.

Solar panels generally come in two types: mono- and multicrystalline and amorphous thin film silicone. However, all solar panels listed in this article will be mono- or multicrystalline as they are the most effective.

MONO- AND MULTI-CRYSTALLINE

Efficient and sturdy, these panels will probably make up your core solar panel collection. For everything on board like lights, fridge, radio and navigation electrics, mono-and multicrystalline are your best bets. They aren’t forgiving on cloudy days though, and even a shadow over the corner of a panel will pull down the output by a lot.

AMORPHOUS THIN FILM SILICONE

Not as efficient as crystalline panels, amorphous panels are cheaper and flexible. They’re good for trickle-charging batteries while the boat is left unattended.

Solar panels are expensive, but their prices have been dropping over the years. If you only use your sailboat for summer weekends, chances are you won’t need pricey, hyper-efficient panels. You just need enough to keep up with your power consumption for two days a week and let the trickle-charge solar panel do the rest.

Take your solar panel budget and split it between the number of solar panels you think you’ll need. Keep in mind though that you’ll most likely need to buy a charge controller as well.

For more of our top sailing gear recommendations, check out these popular buyer's guides:

Sailboat Anchors

Sailboat Winches

Sailing Shoes

Solar Panels for Sailboats

Bilge Pumps