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DIY sailboat arch

By Author Fiona McGlynn

Posted on Last updated: August 18, 2023

Build your own sailboat solar arch or radar arch for a fraction of the price.

We were outfitting our 1979 Dufour 35 for a multi-year sailing trip and had decided to install a 400-watt solar array. But how to best mount them?

A structural arch made the most sense, and we didn’t have one. After a couple of quotes over $5000 USD for a ‘simple arch,’ we decided that we would have to build our own. 

We sought opinions around the docks and almost universally received the advice, ‘Don’t do it…just don’t.’

But, being young and foolish we decided to try it anyway; what did we really have to lose?  While it was more difficult than I had anticipated, we ended up with a product with we were quite happy with and it only cost us a little more than $200 USD.  

Note: A version of this article was published in Good Old Boat Magazine

What is the purpose of a sailboat arch?

Structural arches, also commonly referred to as solar, stern, or radar arches, are a common feature of coastal cruising and bluewater sailboats .

They are used for a variety of purposes, but most commonly to mount and support:

• Solar panels
• A wind generator
• A radar radome
• A weather station
• Various communications antennae
• A dinghy davit, for raising and lowering the dinghy

What do sailboat solar arches cost?

While they provide many advantages, arches can often be prohibitively expensive (commonly from 5k – 12k); but with a little sweat equity, limited metal working skill, and some careful measurements there is no reason why you can’t build your own sturdy arch for a fraction of the normal cost.

Customizing your solar arch

There are as many shapes and sizes of structural arches as there are sailboats.  Determining the style of an arch for your sailboat will depend on a variety of factors, primarily; aesthetics, cost, and function. 

This article details my experience designing, fabricating, and installing a simple, aluminum arch that I use for solar panels, radar, AIS antenna, and a weather station, not to mention a hundred other small things. 

The principles of design and fabrication are common to a wide variety of arches and can likely be used as the basis for other who want to modify the design to fit their own needs and boat shape.

I provide very little engineering guidance below and I recommend that readers creating their own arches first pass their design by a structural engineer or someone knowledgeable in structural design.

There are three main types of material from which to construct an arch; stainless steel, aluminum, and fiberglass. 

There are a variety of factors that go into material selection, with the most common being; aesthetics, price, strength, and ease of construction.  I made a subjective traffic light comparison of the different materials, to assist our decision-making process. 

Stainless steel and aluminum compared closely for our needs, but as our chief concerns were price and ease of construction we opted to go with aluminum. 

There are many different grades of aluminum and it is important to select one that will stand up to the marine environment. 

We selected aluminum alloy 5052.  It is a medium-strength aluminum alloy with good ductility and excellent corrosion resistance and for the latter reason is often preferred for marine environments. 

High-grade aluminum cannot be easily found in conventional building supply stores like Home Depot. 

Purchasing metal from a wholesaler, such as Metal Supermarket or Metals Depot , is much cheaper than buying from a local welder or manufacturer.  A simple google search will supply you with the options for metal wholesalers in your area. 

We purchased our raw materials for the arch for around $70 USD.

In addition to the aluminum tubing, we required the same type of aluminum in flat-stock and stainless steel bolts and lock-nuts to fasten the frame together and to secure it to the deck of the boat. 

I made all the required cuts with a hack-saw and jigsaw, though a metal cutting blade on a radial arm saw or circular saw would have worked as well. 

I cleaned up the cut edges and any sharp spots with a 5” angle grinder with a grinding disc made for aluminum.  A titanium-coated drill bit was used to make the bolt holes.

Determining the shape

Once the material was selected we had to decide on a shape.  We wanted as simple and robust a shape as possible. 

Many arches have a form that cantilevers over the transom of the boat.  While the aesthetic is nice, the primary function of this shape is to support dinghy davits. Due to its cantilevered nature, it imparts a constant rotational force on the attachment locations. 

We have a wind vane on the back of our boat, so hoisting the dinghy was out of the question.  We opted for a simpler shape that transfers load straight down, thereby reducing stress on attachment locations.   

The arch design makes use of a forward tube (1) and an aft tube (2) with two bends in each tube.  A tube connecting the aft and forward tubes at an angle creates a cross brace (3), resisting lateral force fore and aft and distributing dead load. 

Two pieces of flat-stock aluminum (4) bolted on top of the forward and aft tubes also provide lateral resistance and further rigidity to the frame. 

The 3” radius bends in the tubes resist lateral forces from the sides. 

Four ¼” thick, 3” square plates (5) were cut from flat stock and welded to the ends of the tubes.  These plates were bolted through the deck to matching plates on the other side. 

Calculating the tube bends

After measuring everything out to ensure no obstruction, the next step was determining the slope angle (A) of the forward tube.  The slope of the tube would give the arch a sleeker look and improve access on and off the boat.  

Wherever possible it is nice to create parallel lines as too many intersecting lines can be displeasing to the eye, so I maintained the same slope as the pushpit. 

The slope of the forward tube (A) also determines the angle (B) at which the tube will be bent in order to keep the sides of the arch in one plane and in line with the sides of the boat.

There are three ways to calculate the angle of bend (B) in the forward tube:

The first requires some complex trigonometry for which I created a calculator in Excel, which requires only the dimensions of the arch as inputs. 

Another option is to use a free CAD (computer-assisted drawing) program such as Trimble SketchUp and draw the arch you want to build using the measurements you took from the boat.  If using CAD, it is a simple process to measure the angle of the bend with the protractor tool. 

Lastly, you can construct the arch out of a practice material such as PVC pipe or doweling and physically measure the angles and dimensions.  This option also provides the chance to see how the arch interacts with other components of the boat.

Tube bending

Bending the tubing can be done for a low cost at home.  It is possible to rent a tube bender from a building supply store for $50 USD per day or purchase a hydraulic tube bender for around $100-150 USD. 

We ended up renting a tube bender and found the process quite easy.

We were advised by a tube bending company (Aggressive Tube Bending) to select tubing with a 1.5” outer diameter and a 0.145” wall as it didn’t require annealing (heating and slowly cooling) to bend to a 3” radius, whereas 2” tubing would have required annealing. 

It is a good idea to contact a metal shop or tube bending company to ensure that your design can be fabricated without special equipment or techniques. 

Usually, these questions can be answered quickly and over the phone and do not incur a consulting fee.

Installation

Dry-fit preinstallation.

My recommendation would be to dry-fit everything prior to any welding. 

It takes a little extra time to assemble and dry-install the arch, only to disassemble it again, but the time saved in having to cut welds or modify a finished product is well worth it. 

We designed and installed our arch while dry-docked in a boatyard.  We tried to keep the solar panels parallel to the waterline, but when the boat went back in the water, due to weight redistribution, the panels ended up angled slightly forward. 

It is a good idea to fit the arch on a calm day at the dock, rather than guess how the boat sits in the water.

Measure and cut the tubes

The most difficult process of the whole job was transferring the angle of the deck to the bottom of the tubes to ensure that the base plates would be flush when mounted.  Because the deck slopes in two directions it would be impossible to assume an angle at which to cut. 

The solution we devised was using a piece of ½” wood and tracing around the tube with an indelible marker (see image below).

We first made the tubes as secure as possible in the locations they would be when they are bolted to the deck.  This required installing the flat stock between them and lashing them to as many points on the deck as we could find. 

The bottom of the tubes rested on the deck.  We used a 3/8” thick, block of wood, which was placed flat on the deck, as a guide and traced a line around each tube. 

The line transferred the correct angle of the deck to the tubes. I made the cuts with a hack saw and cleaned them up with an angle grinder.

Weld base plates and attachment tabs

We hired an aluminum welder to weld 3”X3”X1/4” plates to the tubes that would be used to connect the arch to the deck of the boat.

When fitting the base plates to the tubing, trace the shape of the tube onto the baseplate to ensure the orientation of the plate is maintained. 

We also welded tabs to the fore and aft tubes and corresponding tabs to the ends of the cross-brace tubes.   The length of the cross-brace tube must be exact to connect to the attachment tabs on the fore and aft tubes, so careful measurements are required. 

Install the fore and aft tubes

We bolted the fore and aft tubes to the deck prior to bolting together the rest of the frame. 

We had planned to run the electrical cables for antennae and the radome through the tubes so we drilled 1” diameter holes in the base plates and through the deck where the base plates would be attached. 

The 1” diameter hole will accommodate most electrical connectors. You may also want to install a ‘messenger line,’ which can be used to pull the cables through the frame after the arch is installed.

We applied Sikaflex 291 to the entire underside of the base plate immediately prior to installation to ensure a water-tight connection between the base plates and the deck. 

The base plates were secured with 1.5” x 5/16” stainless steel bolts that connected to corresponding plates on the underside of the deck. 

If there is not enough room for a plate on the underside, you can double up oversized stainless steel washers to meet the pull-out resistance requirements. 

Stainless steel will react to aluminum and cause corrosion of the aluminum.  A simple way to avoid this is to apply lanolin (we used Lanocote) to the stainless steel bolts to insulate them from the aluminum.

Bolt the frame together

Next we attached the cross-brace tubes. There will be a little flex in the frame, which provides some allowance for connecting the cross braces. 

After securing the cross-brace tubes with stainless steel bolts, we installed the 1/4” flat stock to the tops of the tubes. 

We had previously cut the flat stock into two 8” wide strips.  If you are concerned about rigidity you can bend a 90-degree angle into the length of the flat-stock, though over a 3’ length, the deflection of unbent flat-stock will be minimal.

To improve corrosion resistance and the aesthetic appearance of the arch, the various pieces, now that they have been welded, can be anodized or painted. 

Anodizing requires submersion in a shallow electrolytic bath, so the arch must be in its disassembled form in order to be anodized.  We received a quote for $150 USD to anodize the arch in any color we wanted. 

Another option is to have the arch powder coated.  We received a quote of $100 to paint it white or black. 

In the end, we opted to do nothing as we don’t mind the dull silver look of the aluminum and were still penny-pinching. 

In retrospect, we wish we’d had the arch anodized bright orange, but we were in a rush and focused on keeping costs to a minimum. 

The arch has not only been extremely useful for its intended purpose but also become invaluable for the various add-ons that we could never have foreseen. 

In addition to being a mount for solar panels, radome, communications antennae, and the weather station, an arch is also a place that supports or provides attachment points for:

• the outboard fuel tank and outboard lifting tackle
• fishing rod holders and a fish cleaning station
• the stern anchor
• furling line and boom brake attachment points
• boogie board storage

It also adds to the sense of security in the cockpit and is a great handhold in rolling conditions.  It was a lot of work, but in the end, only costs us $200 USD and we can no longer imagine our little boat without it.

*Note: We installed our radome directly over the solar panels, which was a bad idea as it shades a small portion of the panels most of the time, greatly reducing solar output.  I would recommend installing the arch on an extension away from the solar panels so that the noon-day sun is unobstructed, or even better, installing the radome on the mast.

Fiona McGlynn is an award-winning boating writer who created Waterborne as a place to learn about living aboard and traveling the world by sailboat. She has written for boating magazines including BoatUS, SAIL, Cruising World, and Good Old Boat. She’s also a contributing editor at Good Old Boat and BoatUS Magazine. In 2017, Fiona and her husband completed a 3-year, 13,000-mile voyage from Vancouver to Mexico to Australia on their 35-foot sailboat.

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Adding Solar Power to a Sailboat

• By Emily Fagan
• Updated: October 18, 2019

During our nearly four-year cruise of Mexico, my husband, Mark, and I lived almost exclusively on 555 watts of solar power charging a 640-amp-hour house battery bank. We anchored out virtually every night aboard our 2008 Hunter 44DS, Groovy , and relied on the sun for power. During one 10-week stretch, while we waited for a replacement engine alternator to arrive, our boat’s solar panels were our sole source of power. We had no backup charging system to turn to, and yet we lived and sailed comfortably the entire time. Mounting solar panels on a sailboat was not difficult, but a few key decisions made a huge difference in how effective our panels were.

A solar-power installation on a sailboat is made up of two independent systems: one system to charge the batteries, and another system to provide 120-volt AC power for household appliances. In the charging system, the solar panels convert sunlight into electrical current and deliver it to the batteries via a solar charge controller. Similar to a voltage regulator, the charge controller acts as a gatekeeper to protect the batteries from receiving more current than they need as they are being charged. In the AC power system, an inverter or inverter/charger converts the 12-volt DC power in the battery into 120 volts AC whenever it is turned on.

Panel Positioning and Wiring Considerations

One of the biggest challenges for sailors installing solar power on a sailboat is finding a place on the boat where the panels will be shaded as little as possible. Just a few square inches of shade on one panel can render that panel all but inoperable. Unfortunately, between the mast, radome, spreaders and boom, shadows cross the deck all day long, especially as the boat swings back and forth at anchor.

What’s worse, if the panels are wired in series rather than in parallel, this little bit of shade can shut down the entire solar-panel array. When we installed solar power on Groovy , we had already lived exclusively on solar power in an RV for over two years. Our RV solar panels had been wired in series, and we had witnessed the array shutting down current production when just half of one panel was shaded.

Choosing whether to wire the panels in series or parallel on a boat affects the wire gauge required, which is why many solar-power installers lean toward wiring the panels in series. Panels wired in series can be wired all the way to the solar charge controller with a thinner-gauge wire than those wired in parallel. This is because the voltage of panels wired in series is additive, while the current remains constant, so the current flowing is just that of a single panel. In contrast, the current flowing from panels that are wired in parallel is additive, while the voltage across them is not. This means that in a parallel installation, the current going to the charge controller is several times higher and requires much thicker cable to avoid any voltage loss over the length of the wire.

Not only is thinner-gauge wire less expensive, but it is also more supple and easier to work with, making the job of snaking it in and around various crevices in the boat and connecting it to the solar charge controller much less of a struggle. Thus the choice between series and parallel wiring boils down to a trade-off between system performance, expense and ease of solar system installation.

Luckily, the size of the wire can be reduced if higher-­voltage solar panels are chosen. Since watts are determined by multiplying volts by amps, a higher-voltage panel that generates the same watts as a lower-voltage panel will produce less current. Therefore, selecting nominal 24-volt panels instead of 12-volt panels allows for the use of thinner wire sizes no matter how they are wired.

Our Marine Solar Panel Design Choices

In our installation, we decided to mount three 185-watt, 24-volt (nominal) Kyocera solar panels high above the cockpit, well aft of the boom, as far away as possible from potential shade. Our Hunter came with a big, solid stainless-steel arch, and we turned to Alejandro Ulloa, a brilliant metal fabricator at Baja Naval Boatyard in Ensenada, Mexico, to build a polished stainless-steel solar-panel arch extension onto the existing structure. He designed the arch extension with integrated telescoping davits to hoist our dinghy as well as support the solar panels. These davits were strong enough — and the lines and blocks had enough purchase — that either of us could lift our light Porta-Bote dinghy with its 6-horsepower outboard without a winch.

We spaced the panels about a half-inch apart and wired them in parallel. Using two twin-lead wires, we snaked the three positive leads and one common ground down through the inside of the arch tubes so they wouldn’t be visible, and placed wire loom over the exposed wires under the panels.

The junction points for the three parallel panels were on positive and negative bus bars inside a combiner box, all mounted in a cockpit lazarette. Inside the combiner box, we installed three breakers, one for each panel. This gave us the ability to shut off any or all of the panels if we needed to (we never did).

We mounted a Xantrex solar charge controller (model XW MPPT 60-150) in a hanging locker, as close to the batteries as possible, in a spot where it was easy to monitor and program. We ran twin-lead wire from the combiner box to the charge controller and from there to the batteries.

Our boat came with three new 12-volt Mastervolt 4D AGM house batteries, all wired in parallel, for a total of 480 amp-hours of capacity. We wanted a bigger house battery bank, and because it is best for the age, type and size of the batteries to be matched, we added a fourth new Mastervolt 4D AGM house battery, which brought our total to 640 amp-hours. Our batteries were installed at the lowest point in the hull, below the floorboards, and they ran the length of the saloon, from just forward of the companionway stairs to just aft of the V-berth stateroom door.

The best way to charge a bank of batteries that are wired in parallel is to span the entire battery bank with the leads coming from the charge controller. We did this by connecting the positive lead from the charge controller to the positive terminal of the first battery in the bank, and the negative lead from the charge controller to the negative terminal of the last battery. By spanning the entire bank, the batteries were charged equally rather than having the charging current focused on just the first battery in the bank.

We feel that AGM batteries are superior to wet cell (flooded) batteries because they can be installed in any orientation, don’t require maintenance, can’t spill (even in a capsize), and charge more quickly. Our Mastervolt batteries, like almost all AGM batteries on the market, are dual-purpose, combining the very different characteristics of both deep-cycle and start batteries. Our batteries work well, but if we were doing an installation from scratch today, we would consider the new Trojan Reliant AGM batteries. These batteries are engineered strictly for deep-cycle use and have been optimized to provide consistent current and maximize battery life.

Our boat came with a Xantrex Freedom 2,500-watt inverter/charger wired into the boat’s AC wiring system with a transfer switch. The inverter/charger performed two functions. While the boat was disconnected from shore power, it converted the batteries’ 12-volt DC power into 120-volt AC power, allowing us to operate 120-volt appliances, like our microwave. When the boat was connected to shore power, it charged the batteries.

Because this inverter/charger was a modified-sine-wave inverter, mimicking AC ­current with a stair-stepped square wave, we also had a 600-watt pure-sine-wave inverter to power our potentially more sensitive electronic devices. We chose Exeltech because its inverters produce an electrical signal that is clean enough to power medical equipment, and they are NASA’s choice for both the Russian and American sides of the International Space Station. For simplicity, rather than wiring the inverter into the cabin’s AC wiring, we plugged ordinary household power strips into the AC outlets on the inverter and plugged our appliances into the power strips. Like the charge controller, the inverter must be located as close to the batteries as possible. Ours was under a settee.

Shade’s Impact on Sailboat Solar Panels

Once our solar installation was completed on our sailboat, we closely observed the effects of shade on our solar-panel array. We were often anchored in an orientation that put the panels in full sun. Just as often, however, we were angled in such a way that shade from the mast and boom covered portions of our panels. It was fascinating to monitor the solar charge controller’s LCD display whenever the sun was forward of the beam — the current from the panels to the batteries fluctuated up and down as we swung at anchor.

Taking notes one morning, we noticed that the charging current was repeatedly creeping up and down between 9.5 and 24.5 amps as the boat moved to and fro. When the entire solar-panel array was in full sun, it generated 24.5 amps of current. When we moved so the mast shaded a portion of one panel, the array generated 15 amps. When it shaded portions of two panels and only one was in full sun, the array produced just 9.5 amps. Of course, it would have been preferable to see a steady 24.5 amps all morning, but this sure beat watching the current drop to zero whenever a shadow crossed a panel.

We discovered that shade makes a huge impact while sailing, too. Surprisingly, it is far worse to have the panels shaded by the sails than to have the panels in full sun but tilted away from its direct rays. One afternoon, we noticed that while we were on a tack that tilted the panels away from the sun, they generated 24.5 amps of current, whereas on a tack where the panels were tilted toward the sun but two of the three were partially shaded by the sails, the current dropped to a mere 10 amps.

Reflections On Our Solar Panel Installation

A wonderful and surprising side benefit of our large solar panels and arch system was that the setup created fabulous shade over the jumpseats at the stern end of the cockpit. Our metal fabricator, Alejandro, placed a support strut at hand-holding height, and sitting in those seats feels secure and comfortable while sailing, no matter the conditions.

After living on solar power for eight years of cruising and land-yacht travel, we’ve learned that you can never have too much solar power. Groovy’s 555 watts was enough to run all our household appliances as needed, including our nearly 4-cubic-foot DC refrigerator, two laptops, a TV/DVD player, and lights at night. However, it was not quite enough power to run all that plus our stand-alone 2.5-cubic-foot DC freezer during the short days and low sun angles of the winter months without supplemental charging from the engine alternator every few days. For the 10 weeks that we did not have a functioning alternator, our solution was to turn off the freezer, which enabled our batteries to reach full charge every afternoon.

Solar power made a world of difference in our cruise. Not only did it allow us to live comfortably and with ample electricity for weeks on end when our engine alternator went on the blink, but as a “set-it-and-forget-it” system, it also gave us the freedom to anchor out for as long as we wished without worrying about the batteries. In our eyes, the solar-panel arch enhanced the beauty and lines of our boat, giving her a sleek and clean appearance. It was true icing on the cake to discover that the panels and arch system also provided much-needed shade over the cockpit and helm from the hot tropical sunshine. If you are preparing for a cruise, consider turning to the sun for electricity and outfitting your sailboat with solar power.

The Installation:

Emily and Mark Fagan offer cruising tips and share their stories and photos on their website, roadslesstraveled.us . They are currently enjoying a land cruise across America aboard an RV.

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Yacht Solar Panel Arch (Do This)

If you are wondering how to add solar power to your sailboat, look no further. Inside we walk you through Yacht solar panel arch options, and we give you a few more pieces of information that are essential to this project. 

A sailboat or yacht solar panel arch is an aftermarket add-on for your boat. In short, it is a metal arch frame that attaches to the stern of the boat, where you would then attach solar panels.

Solar accessories, such as batteries, solar regulators, and inverters become housed in a water-tight cabinet above or below deck. 

Note :   Because of the force of winds and the corrosive nature of saltwater, stainless steel is the best material to use to build an arch. 

In this blog, we discuss

• What a sailboat arch kit is
• Determining solar need
• What to look for in a DIY kit or Solar panel kit for your boat
• Shading and what that means for solar energy production
• We also share a few essential tips along the way

Sailboat Arch Kit 

You have two options when it comes to a yacht solar panel arch installation. You can go with a kit, or you can go the DIY route. 

What are you looking at in terms of components for a sailboat arch installation?

Some of the information below will change as the boat gets larger. Generally, you want:

• 3 X 185-250 watt — 24volt solar panels . You can go more extensive on the wattage if you need to power more gadgets. On larger boats, you might have the space to add a fourth panel. If this is a DIY project, be sure to note the physical size of the panels, as that will dictate how many you can install on the arch. 
• Charge Controller with enough input ports to handle the wires for each solar panel . If you use three panels, the controller will need three input ports. If you use four panels, the controller will need four input ports. An MPPT charge controller works well for this application. 
• An inverter that will handle charging smaller gadgets
• A Battery Storage System with enough amp-hours to cover your power needs
• An arch kit to attach the solar panels and other gear is good. Some arch kits include all the above components, and others are just the arch. 

To figure out the size of the sailboat solar panel kit you need, calculate the electrical usage for things like:

• Computer laptop, and cellular charging or usage
• Entertainment such as music and TV or DVD
• You may also need power for things like radar, communication, etc. 

Other considerations include seasonal fluctuations for incoming solar radiation and the location of the boat. It is better to have more energy than you need than not enough.

Storms, cloudy days, and other shading events can cause a drop in power production. Storms or clouds can last for several days.

Solar Arch Cost & Options

There is a range in pricing for solar panel kits for a sailboat. Many are in the $2,500 range. It is more important to shop based on what you need rather than solely on price. Larger kits can cost above $10,000. 

Sailboat and yacht builders may have options if you are going for a custom boat build. As you consider the cost of a solar arch, focus on:

• Aesthetically pleasing design – The arch should fit the general style of your boat, not be an obvious add-on to it. 
• Durable — Boats take a beating in storms, high winds, rough seas, and other natural elements. The arch must be able to hold the solar panels firmly without warping or breaking. 
• Functional — The function of the arch is to look nice and hold the solar panels in place. Stainless steel is a good option over other metals, including aluminum. 
• Sealed — Not always an option but having the arch sealed against weather and water is a good investment. 

See also:   Solar Panels on Boats (Are They Worth It?)

Options for Solar Arches 

Solar arches can hold a lot more than solar panels. You can look for options in kits or have them built into a custom or DIY project. Those include

• Radar Risers — These can be permanently attached to the arch or designed for easy removal as needed. 
• Radar Pole — a taller version of the radar risers
• Wind Generator Pole — when you want to harness the power of the wind and include solar energy too. These can be permanently installed or added as a removable option. 
• Antenna Riser or Pole — You can opt for an antenna pole or riser when you need more clearance for your antenna. These can also be removable. 
• Davit Extension Arms for hanging a dinghy

What Is the Best Solar Arch Kit?

Figuring out which is the best solar arch kit for your boat is difficult to say. The best solar arch kit will differ based on your solar energy needs and the type of boat you have.

Larger boats tend to need more energy than would a smaller boat. A sailboat might need more panels than a yacht because the sails and masts can cause a shading effect.

Shading means that less sunlight falls on the panels, which decreases energy production. 

Also, since we are discussing shading on a sailboat, you would likely want microinverters over string inverters.

The reason is that when you have a string inverter if one panel becomes shaded, it causes the total output of energy to drop for all panels.

With microinverters, a single shaded panel would cause the energy from that panel to drop, not from all panels. 

You could apply this also to a yacht. However, it would not be the sails or mast that causes shading; it would more likely be something blocking the sun while moored at a dock. 

In terms of what is best for your boat, look for:

• Aesthetics 
• Stainless Steel for strength
• Options for add-ons that fit your needs and lifestyle
• Functionality 
• Options — You may not need risers or poles, but you may need them in the future, and it is an excellent option to have that ability now rather than paying someone to install them later or replace the solar arch. 
• Warranties — be sure to compare warranties to see if there are differences. Some repairs may be covered by insurance, but they can be better and less expensive in the long run if a warranty covers them. 

These variables will change from one boat to the next, but they help make it a more informed decision when choosing a solar arch kit for a yacht or sailboat. 

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SolVoltaics 1043 Garland Ave Unit C #737 San Jose, CA 95126

	--> A modular system with a large array of accessories that clamp on or bolt on allowing you add or chaange equipment at any time. Support large solar panel arrays, lift a center console tender and more. A design that has been extensively tested in our shop and by the experience of sailors around the world. , distance between forward legs and after legs is the same Adjust to fit 120" to 170" Adjust to fit 120" to 170" forward; 110" to 160" aft Adjust to fit 150" to 200" Adjust to fit 150" to 200" forward; 140" to 190" aft Please call for information on specific yatch applications: certain customizable dimensions are possible at additional cost Prices and specifications are subject to change, please call for current information. Since the introduction of the “Tower in a Box” Sail Arch in 2009, A thousand plus sailors have cruised tens of thousands of miles, carrying solar panels, tenders, wind generators, and every other type of gear imaginable on their Sail Arch. Truly the “swiss army knife” of marine structures, Cruising Sailors have taken this high quality, highly flexible, easily adjustable structure and adapted to their personal yachts and their personal needs. Now in answer to requests for a “Tower in a Box” Sail Arch that is large enough for Cruising Catamarans and large Monohulls, here comes the SUPER SAIL ARCH. The Super Sail Arch can handle over 1000* pounds of equipment, solar panels, and tender with outboard when the load is properly installed and distributed.. Universal Arch Makes Installations on Hundreds of Other Makes and Models Possible Every Arch includes a large (approximately 12" x 12") radar plate, plus four 4" wide mounting plates which will accommodate up to six additional antennas. Radar cables, antenna cables and other wiring may be concealed inside the frame The Arch is mounted to your boat in four locations with our proprietary "Pin & Pad" mounting hardware. These fittings have nylon bushings which help isolate any vibration in the Arch from the fiberglass surface of your boat. The "Pin & Pad" fittings also allow mounting to any angled surface, and easy dismounting of the arch (just remove the four 3/8" bolts) for storage or transport. You have a choice of 3-1/2" 5 bolt bases , or 2" diameter 2 bolt bases click here (new page, Kit #6 detail) Everything is included for a complete installation on most boats, even backing plates. 6391 Walmore Road Niagara Falls, NY 14304 Tel: 1-866-945-8801 Email: --> *Ultimate working weight capacity off the structure is dependent on many factors all of which are variable, including the installed beam dimension, strength of the mounting areas on the yacht, pre-load, distribution of weight across the structure. Please consult with us regarding intended usage if you have any question about capacity Available Options: --> --> Atlantic Towers manufactures a wide variety of fittings and specialty hardware that allow Sail Arch owners to design and build a variety of individualized applications. Including Solar Panel array supports. Davit arms, lifting eyes, outboard motor brackets, etc. Wind Generator Mast. Comes with a 40' length of 1 1/2" Schd.40 which can be permanently fitted into the receiver with two part epoxy, or made removable with the use of machine screws or quick release pins. The 1.90" outer diameter of the 1 1/2" schd.40 pipe fits many popular wind generators. the Wind Generator mast MUST be ordered with the arch, it cannot be bolted on. Can be mounted to top of arch to extend the "pick point" of the lifting eyes up to 24" behind arch. Includes two 42" Schd.80 extensions, end caps, curved washers, welded lifting eyes, and all hardware needed for installation. . An extruded anodized aluminum clamp assembly that can be used to secure a lifting tackle to the arch. An extruded anodized aluminum clamp allows you to add a cleat anywhere on the side or truss of your Super Sail Arch. Need more rod holders? Individual can be mounted anywhere on the perimeter of the Sail Arch framework. A unique patented design available exclusively from Atlantic Towers, manufactured from all aluminum in natural aluminum or gold anodized finish Adjust-O-Launchers can be pivoted thru 12 positions for unmatched flexibility. Fits all marine standard 1-1/2” pipe (1.90” o.d.) AJ30500C Clear Anodizing: AJ30500G Gold Anodizing: More light, less current draw than conventional halogen lamps. Current draw less than 1 amp each (less than 2 amps a pair) at 12 volts. Wire with minimum 20 gauge (always used tinned stranded wire for marine applications). Includes Choice of mounting bracket to fit any Atlantic Towers structure. Tower in a Box Arches - Single MP152 with KIT54000 Light Mount: Custom Arches - Single MP152 with KIT54000 Light Mount: Made from 1 1/2" schd. 40 anodized aluminum pipe with an outer diameter measuring 1.9" and features eye bolts for tying down equipment along with grip rail to prevent any slipping or damage. With three different clamp on or bolt on versions available, the rack can be clamped or bolted to existing arches, hardtops, davit systems, bow rails, and foredecks. The Arch was designed for owner installation and is typically no more complicated than installing rod holders or outriggers, just a few more pieces. If you are comfortable with hand tools, the Arch comes with instructions and all the backing plates and hardware required for a thru bolted installation. page for professional installers with whom our customers have had a good experience) How is the Arch shipped to me? Although the Arch is not heavy it is too large to go by UPS. We have discounted freight arrangements with several trucking companies, which cover all 48 states and Canada. We can also ship to Alaska, Hawaii and any overseas city, call us for details. The Arch is packed in a single large cardboard carton and normally ships to a commercial address What happens if my Arch is damaged in shipping? Atlantic Towers wants you to enjoy your boat, not spend the season chasing a freight claim. If your Arch arrives damaged, just refuse the shipment and we will send you a new one at no additional cost to you. Can I return my Arch if I decide I don’t want to keep it? Atlantic will accept the return of any Standard Structure within 30 days of it’s receipt by you. Simply return the Structure in the original packaging in new condition freight pre-paid and we will refund the purchase price less a 10% restocking fee Yes, for 5 years, see the section of our website for details. **NOTE: There is a 10% re-stocking charge for cancelled or returned merchandise** Due to our dedication to continued product improvement, we reserve the right to make changes without notice. Distant Shores The Sailing Adventure TV Series Solar power on sailboats - arch building. In the Shop Final Tweaks Commissioning Rememberance Day Tech Blog / Save 40% off! Join our newsletter and get 40% off right away! Sailboat Life Sailboat Cruising and Lifestyle Magazine. Sailboat Solar Systems and How-To Solar on a sailboat goes together like hands and gloves, but sailboat solar systems can be installed in a variety of ways. The solar components themselves create an infinite combination of possibilities for off-grid sailing. Victron Energy chargers, Renogy Panels, Sunpower Yachts, BlueSea Systems, and many more brands have entered the marketplace, and that’s not including the lithium battery companies. To simplify things, we’ve compiled three sailboat solar systems videos to give you an overview of what’s possible. And to help you decide on your own simple solar panel setup for sailing. How-To Install Solar Panels on Your Sailboat This system from Zingaro shows flexible panels summing 300w of power on a 38′ catamaran. 300W Solar System: Three 100w solar flexible panels 1 MPPT Solar charger controller View on Amazon >> 100W HQST Flexible Solar Panels $100-$200 20amp Solar Charge Controller by Victron Energy $150-$200 Simple Sunpower Solar System This simple solar system from The Fosters shows a quick and easy setup with limited space on top of a bimini. Sunpower Solar Panels are considered by most in the industry as the gold standard. They use the highest-efficiency solar cells and have top-notch build quality. In this simple installation, three 50w panels are just enough to get you started. Plus, it’s the most affordable installation! 150w Starter Solar System Three 50w Flexible Solar Panels A Single 15amp solar charge controller 50W Sunpower Solar Panels $150-$200 75v/15amp Solar Charge Controller by Victron Energy $100-$124 Off-Grid on a DIY Solar Powered Sailboat Here’s a special installation that turned a derelict sailboat into an off-grid sailing machine! Simon has transformed this derelict sailboat into an epic off-grid solar-powered and fossil-fuel-free cruising catamaran. He’s been living aboard and renovating the boat for the past 3.5 years We’re excited to show you the transformation as well as how he plans to propel the boat without the use of diesel or fossil fuels! 5280w Solar System for Electric Powered Catamaran 16 Rigid solar panels (330w each) 20kwh of Lithium Batteries 240W Rigid Solar Panels $250-$300 200AH Lithium 4d Battery $1200-$1200 Share this post! Throw in your two cents, start a discussion cancel reply, related articles. The Voyage of the Sea Star – 35ft Sloop to Bermuda Living Aboard a 30-36ft Sailboat: A Guide for the Curious and Adventurous Summer Sailboat Video, Bikinis, Sails, and Fun Saved Up For This Dream Login to Sailing Tellus Signup to sailing tellus. By registering an account on Sailing Tellus allows you to import your YouTube channel videos. If you do not have a Youtube account you can still create an account to enjoy other features. You have successfully signup on Sailing Tellus. We have sent you an email with instructions on how to verify your email address. The email should arrive in a couple of minutes. If you don't see an email in the Inbox, please check the Spam folder, too. Forgot password We have sent you an email with instructions on how to reset your account password. Sailboat refit: installing a stainless steel arch for solar panels and dinghy davits #33 Special thanks to Anders, who made it possible for us to purchase this arch (and therefore make this video) by giving us his old radar. Without it, we would have had to replace our entire marine electronics setup and would not have had the budget for this refit! Stuart’s contact details (Arcglow Inox Almerimar): http://www.arcglowinoxalmerimar.com/ In this episode, we install a stainless steal arch at the back of Polar Seal. We go through design alternatives, the construction process and finally the installation of the arch. Our arch support 610 Watts of solar array, a bar for our antennas and davits for our dinghy. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ** JOIN THE CREW! ** Join our virtual crew of Patrons at: https://www.patreon.com/ryanandsophiesailing ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ** GEAR ** ⛵️Our boat: Polar Seal, 2007 Beneteau Oceanis 40, owners version (2 cabins layout). Full tour and review of Polar Seal at: https://youtu.be/sxqKYydlxd0 🎥 Photo & Film gear Our camera: https://amzn.to/2KyC8mi Image stabilizing lens: https://amzn.to/2Kiq89i Our microphone: https://amzn.to/2Ix8MQd Microphone windjammer: https://amzn.to/2KeEmYS Our action camera: https://amzn.to/2Ky8IBS Our drone: https://amzn.to/2tDjRdU ⚠️ Disclosure: Some of the links above are affiliate links. 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We really appreciate your support! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ** CONTACT 📬 ** Say hi, ask us a question or send us feedback at: 📩 [email protected] Life is short: • Meet someone on Tinder 📱👫 • Quit your job👩🏻‍💻 • Sell your apartment 🏡 • Buy a boat ⛵️💸💸💸 • Go sail the world 🔜🌍 More articles from Ryan & Sophie Sailing You might also like Through a partnership with Viva Energy, we are able to offer high quality solar panels, charge controllers, batteries, cables etc. In short: EVERYTHING else you need for a full solar installation on your boat! See all available products here: www.vivaenergi.dk     (Danish only) We offer a   5% discount  when you buy panels and controller from us with your solar arch. Below are some of our most popular panels and controllers. Our largest panel 1482x676x35 mm Monocrystalline Manufacturer Viva Energy A/S Medium panel 1324x676x35 mm Small panel 1200x554x35 mm 60A  MPPT Controller, Bluetooth Our largest controller. Color display, touch screen and smartphone app. Panel Volt. System Volt. LiFePO4 compat. 30A  MPPT Controller, Bluetooth Medium controller. Colo r display, touch screen and smartphone app. 12V  100AH AGM/GEL Battery  Hybrid AGM/GEL Deep cycle battery 300 x 175 x 230mm 30 kg 12V  100AH (200A BMS) LiFePO4 Battery  Lithium (LiFePo4) deep cycle battery with app. 300 x 175 x 220mm 13,5 kg 12V  200AH (200A BMS) LiFePO4 Battery  530 x 240 x 220mm 26,5 kg Solar panels and controllers Visit our Popular Forums Monohull Sailboats Multihull Sailboats Powered Boats General Sailing Antares Yachts Fountaine Pajot Lagoon Catamarans Cruising Business Boat Classifieds General Classifieds Crew Positions Commercial Posts Vendor Spotlight Life Aboard a Boat Provisioning: Food & Drink Families, Kids, & Pets Afloat Recreation, Entertainment, & Fun Boat Ownership & Making a Living Liveaboard's Forum Seamanship, Navigation & Boat Handling Seamanship & Boat Handling Training, Licensing, & Certification Health, Safety, & Related Gear Rules of the Road, Regulations, & Red Tape Engineering & Systems Const. / Maint. / Refit Product / Service Reviews Electronics: Comms / AV Electrical: Batts / Gen / Solar Lithium Power Systems Engines & Propulsion Propellers & Drive Systems Plumbing / Fixtures Deck Hdw: Rigging / Sails Aux. Equipment & Dinghy Anchoring & Mooring Photo Categories Member Galleries Life Onboard Sailing in the Wind Power Boats Cruising Destinations Maint. & Boat Building Marine Life Scuba Diving & Divers General Photos Recent Photos Listing Categories African Cats view more » Crew Wanted Crew Available Enhance Your Account Meet the Mods Meet the Advisors Signup for The Daily Cruiser Email   > > Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. 11-12-2018, 00:51   Boat: Moody 39 a and equipping it for cruising. On most we have considered so far, we would need to add and/or a arch. It seems to make sense to combined these functions into a structure. Just to complicate things, we will also be adding a (probably a Hydrovane) so need to consider airflow around the stern of the . I am fully expecting that we only use the for overnight of the , and for use on shorter passages where we are happy to hand steer or use the . The would be used for longer passages where the would be on , not in the davits. I would like the arch to support a minimum of 400w of , and a dinghy+ob weighing up to about 80kg. What sort of tubing size (thickness and od) should I be considering? And how best to fabricate the attachment to the ? Boat is likely to be a centre GRP design in the region of 38-40ft. If anybody has pictures or description of a similar design that would be fantastic. 11-12-2018, 05:40   Boat: 1968 Columbia 50 search will provide a great number of ideas, and pictures. Any design will be dependent on the design of the boat, and where you plan on putting the solar, whether over the , or hanging off the stern. just my .02 11-12-2018, 06:10   Boat: Moody 39 search will provide a great number of ideas, and pictures. Any design will be dependent on the design of the boat, and where you plan on putting the solar, whether over the cockpit, or hanging off the stern. just my .02 11-12-2018, 07:43   Boat: 1968 Columbia 50 and what I have been told by a number of people, they went with a 2" schedule 40 SS. Up in Michigan we do not see many arch/davit systems, but my time spent in and other places this seems to be the norm. Mounting entails large flange base plates at the , bolted through the deck to the undersides with a backing plate below. Some people like the davits that have a swing out arm for the dinghy, that you can use to raise the dinghy. This would move the arm out of the way for the when it is in use. Here is a gallery from a well known maker of arches/davits for ideas: 11-12-2018, 08:03   a and>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> What sort of tubing size (thickness and od) should I be considering? >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 11-12-2018, 09:30   Boat: Irwin 46 CC 38 has a very stout arch with davits. Only two but could accommodate more with minor adjustment. I think it a good idea to look at the mounting with different shear points. Deck and transom share the load. was used but I am not certain the wall thickness of the various sized tubes. 11-12-2018, 09:39   Boat: Nordic 44 can dramatically affect the boat trim. Depending upon the boat design and boom length can be mounted above the . 11-12-2018, 09:40   Boat: Morgan 461 S/Y Flying Pig (dammit, my mistake), stub (and pre-weather-forecaster stub), several antennae, and a solar panel frame, and the second being my solar upgrade, which will show you the bracket and the modification made to accommodate 2 larger in place of the 3 originals: ! 11-12-2018, 09:44   Boat: Morgan 461 S/Y Flying Pig fabrication, and mostly for boats, and perhaps didn't know that it had to be pipe. So, if you're doing SS, for sure use harder/thicker material than my 2" tubing, and don't skimp on bracing... ! 11-12-2018, 09:59   they used 1-7/8 Sch 40 aluminum tubing, it was anodized after welding for good protection. It has been on a year and has performed perfectly on the of FL. I don't the weight, but the installers said it was much lighter than the smaller diameter normally used (when the arch was laying on the , my old muscles could pick it up). The large diameter tubing makes the arch very stiff. On the inboard side of the arch they added a bracket for the dinghy . With the crane arm I added, I can get the on and off the dinghy easily, (with using one arm in calm conditions). 11-12-2018, 10:10   Boat: C&C Landfall 38 so comes a ways forward it also holds 2 325 watt panels......I see weirdly braced aches because they want to just have it over the transom......I thought mine through from to transom and it includes a cockpit enclosure. 11-12-2018, 10:30   Boat: Morgan Out Island 41 they used 1-7/8 Sch 40 aluminum tubing, it was anodized after welding for good protection. It has been on a year and has performed perfectly on the of FL. I don't the weight, but the installers said it was much lighter than the smaller diameter normally used (when the arch was laying on the , my old muscles could pick it up). The large diameter tubing makes the arch very stiff. On the inboard side of the arch they added a bracket for the dinghy motor. With the crane arm I added, I can get the motor on and off the dinghy easily, (with using one arm in calm conditions). 11-12-2018, 10:31   Boat: Tayana Vancouver 42ac cruising. On most boats we have considered so far, we would need to add davits and/or a solar arch. It seems to make sense to combined these functions into a structure. Just to complicate things, we will also be adding a windvane (probably a Hydrovane) so need to consider airflow around the stern of the boat. I am fully expecting that we only use the davits for overnight of the dinghy, and for use on shorter passages where we are happy to hand steer or use the . The would be used for longer passages where the dinghy would be on deck, not in the davits. I would like the arch to support a minimum of 400w of solar, and a dinghy+ob weighing up to about 80kg. What sort of tubing size (thickness and od) should I be considering? And how best to fabricate the attachment to the boat? Boat is likely to be a centre cockpit GRP design in the region of 38-40ft. If anybody has pictures or description of a similar design that would be fantastic. 11-12-2018, 12:28   Boat: Moody 39 , although we are considering some aft cockpit designs as well. All fairly old fashioned designs without open transoms or excessive beam. I'm aware that having davits and a windvane has the potential for complication, and until quite recently I didn't even think it was an option, but a bit of research shows some people managing to make it work. My solution is to simply not use both at the same time- the windvane is for use on long passages, where the dinghy would be on deck. Again reiterating, the dinghy will likely be around 35-40kg with a 6-10hp weighing up 25-40kg, so total max weight in the region of 80kg, possibly a bit less depending on what we end up buying. I like the idea of aluminium, but I am going to struggle to find someone to fabricate it, at least at a mates rates sort of . My gut feeling was that 38mm SS tubing would be about right, but I take on board the number of people who have said they have 2". What weight of dinghy are you hanging off this? 11-12-2018, 13:38   weighs less that my wife does . i used ss for ease of adding on lugs etc. at later stage is easy otherwise i would have used aluminium. if you know some " excellent welders " then there is no reason why they cannot weld the All,, other than that a more industrial type "AC" machine is needed , welding / fabbing Al is just as easy as SS, maybe even easier as it cuts easier and contraction is much less than with SS. re deck fitting, make as wide as poss and use throo deck bolts with big back plates,, all easy stuff.. i could prob my whole boat with mine !! ( but remember , without lots and lotsa work or industrial polishing facilities then show room finish is not possible . ) a finish polishing disc to fit on a grinder are 5£ a pop,, you will need about 5. and then some pickling paste which ( i think ) comes in £ 50 jars, about 2-3 pints.., you will need about a tea cup , bst if you know people from farms they can get small amounts. so you are prob looking around 200£ materials for 10' beam , ( twin bar hoop ) + very best of " mates rates ". (ps,, Aly would have to be 2" x 3mm ) , , Thread Tools Rate This Thread : Posting Rules post new threads post replies post attachments edit your posts is are code is are are are Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post CookiesnTequila Construction, Maintenance & Refit 9 29-10-2016 02:44 Captain Ludd Monohull Sailboats 14 16-12-2015 14:42 For Sale: DCRRenaissance Classifieds Archive 3 04-07-2015 18:26 For Sale: DCRRenaissance Classifieds Archive 0 02-07-2015 07:58 Tspringer Construction, Maintenance & Refit 10 12-03-2008 18:54 - - - - - - - Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time. Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media Media New media New comments Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe Arch for solar panel Thread starter Sailorlass Start date Feb 10, 2013 Catalina Owner Forums Catalina 310 Any design ideas for an arch from the pushpit to hold one or two solar panels please? We will probably use 1" stainless to match all the other stainless. Photos would be a great help. Our 310 is hull number 326. Wonderful boat!   Sailorlass said: Any design ideas for an arch from the pushpit to hold one or two solar panels please? We will probably use 1" stainless to match all the other stainless. Photos would be a great help. Our 310 is hull number 326. Wonderful boat! Click to expand JK_Boston_Catalina310 Here are a couple of photos. One is just the arch from the existing stern rail. The other is a full arch mounted to the deck and has davits. You could also go with an arch like these , they have put them on C350's but I don't think any C310's yet.   Attachments I once priced s/s arches. Around 3,000-5,000 dollars before solar panels, etc. I decided to go with davits with the panel mounted on them. Turns out to work very well for us. Total cost was less than $2,000, including panel, controller, mounting hardware, etc.   Tom, Which davits did you go with? Do you have any photos showing the base? Thanks Jesse   Jesse, I went with Mar-Tek davits. Reasonable cost and plenty strong enough for my Walker Bay 8 plus the solar panel. Unfortunately, most of my photos are in my old PC, which has crashed. I will enclose photos of the supports I put under the quarter perches. The base of the davits is similar, but round. It will adjust to any angle, and fits perfectly on the transom, just aft of the stern rail. I submitted an article about our davit/solar panel setup to Mainsheet magazine in the March 2012 edition.   Thank you all so much, suddenly a range of options we hadn't considered. We tend to only use the bimini when it is really hot and as we are able to sail right through the year here in New Zealand, we will probably explore the Martek davits. We have a 2.4 Zodiac RIB with a 3.5hp o/b, I'd better get some idea of the weights involved. Whether we would still need to carry the o/b on the stern rail? We could go for a lighter solar panel, we'd like to be able to get about 160 watts up there. So, food for thought. Any further suggestions would be most welcome! I hope you are surviving your winter, sounds miserable. Hate to rub it in but we are having a fantastic summer down here. Come and visit! Thanks again, Adrien   Hi Tom, You don't by any chance have a copy of your article you could email to me please? [email protected]   Thanks Tom   JK Boston How are you supporting you dinghy in the photo where she is flipped up at the stern? I have been looking for a good way to store mine on the 310 when at dock? When I travel the dinghy is in the water or on deck, but need a nice way (read cheap) to get it out of the water during the week, and not increase my over all length at the slip. Look forward to your responce. Thanks Russ s/v Long Story   Unfortunately, that is not my boat. That is a boat that Stu saw and posted photos on another thread . I believe those are something like Weaver Snap Davits , more commonly used on power boats, but I think I am going with this plan for my boat.   Sailorlass said: Hi Tom, You don't by any chance have a copy of your article you could email to me please? [email protected] Click to expand Tom, That would be great, thanks. Adrien.   Hi Russ, Tom, Stu, JK and others, Oceania(photos in some of your posts) is actually our boat and much to our embarrassment and horror was dinged. Neither boat saw the other. We had all the stainless from the port side ripped out, pulpit torn off at the bow, port pushpit destroyed and our arch carrying two 80watt solar panels torn off on the port side. Port stanchions pulled out, broken or bent and some of the stb ones bent out of shape. The lifelines held it all, plus o/b, from disappearing to the bottom of Queen Charlotte Sound and we limped back into port and untangled the mess. Not pretty! Minimal fibreglass damage in the scheme of things, just where the other yacht rode up across our toe rail and where all the stainless fittings pulled out. We have never been terribly happy with the design of the arch, so are thinking about alternatives, and there is the issue of the inflatable, we normally tow it or carry it on the foredeck. In the photo Stu and JK posted we had the dinghy lashed to the stern rail as we were not carrying the outboard. I thought it worked well, but he who must be obeyed was not keen. Our thoughts are Weaver davits, plus an arch, but is there room for the outboard on the stern rail? Or, conventional davits with a solar panel on top, but do they put us into a longer, ie more expensive category for a berth? Also, handling with that extra weight out the back? Lots of pondering going on so your input has been invaluable. Thank you all. If you are ever heading down this way, get in touch, [email protected] There is usually a bed in Christchurch and the offer of a sail in the Marlborough Sounds, once we have our beloved back together again. Adrien.   Sailorlass said: Hi Russ, Tom, Stu, JK and others, Oceania(photos in some of your posts) is actually our boat and much to our embarrassment and horror was dinged. Neither boat saw the other. We had all the stainless from the port side ripped out, pulpit torn off at the bow, port pushpit destroyed and our arch carrying two 80watt solar panels torn off on the port side. Port stanchions pulled out, broken or bent and some of the stb ones bent out of shape. The lifelines held it all, plus o/b, from disappearing to the bottom of Queen Charlotte Sound and we limped back into port and untangled the mess. Not pretty! Minimal fibreglass damage in the scheme of things, just where the other yacht rode up across our toe rail and where all the stainless fittings pulled out. We have never been terribly happy with the design of the arch, so are thinking about alternatives, and there is the issue of the inflatable, we normally tow it or carry it on the foredeck. In the photo Stu and JK posted we had the dinghy lashed to the stern rail as we were not carrying the outboard. I thought it worked well, but he who must be obeyed was not keen. Our thoughts are Weaver davits, plus an arch, but is there room for the outboard on the stern rail? Or, conventional davits with a solar panel on top, but do they put us into a longer, ie more expensive category for a berth? Also, handling with that extra weight out the back? Lots of pondering going on so your input has been invaluable. Thank you all. If you are ever heading down this way, get in touch, [email protected] There is usually a bed in Christchurch and the offer of a sail in the Marlborough Sounds, once we have our beloved back together again. Adrien. Click to expand Hi Jesse, We chuckled seeing pics of Oceania too! The rib is a 2.4 Zodiac and we did sail with it lashed to the stern rail like that. Handled fine but never tried it in a decent blow or following sea. I imagine it would be ok if you lashed it high enough. We used to get the side of the dinghy onto the swim platform. Better than having it turning cartwheels behind us in the wind if we were not in shelter and having to fight it onto the foredeck. Same idea as the Weaver davits really, probably more trouble to lash it into place and then the issue of the o/b. The flexible solar panels on the bimini is a great idea, very neat. Much cheaper too than an arch. Our dilemma is we seldom have the bimini out, especially in the winter when we need the power. Good luck with the Caribbean plan, what a great scheme. Hope it comes off. We spend most of the summer in the Marlborough Sounds and it is a stunning life style. Pottering from bay to bay with the odd longer trip thrown in, brilliant, love it. Regards Adrien.   Adrien, We, too, have had the inflatable doing cartwheels in the air behind us, only to have it land upside-down on the water, and then submerge to the bottom of the bay! The dinghy survived, but that convinced us to look into some kind of davit setup. Initially, I researched arches that would accommodate davits and a solar panel. A local welder on the Gulf coast of Florida had fabricated some robust arches (s/s) that looked great. But I was concerned about the initial cost and the weight of the arch. So we went with the davits and solar panel, and we like it. Yes, there is some concern about weight aft of the transom, but we carry 100' of chain in the anchor locker, and with the water tank full, she rides level on her lines with the dinghy on the davits. We store our 3.3 Mercury o/b 2-stroke on the stern rail at the starboard quarter perch, since the bow of the dinghy is on that side, and there is plenty of room for the o/b. We do lose the use of the perch while the o/b is stowed. We have sailed with the dinghy on the davits, and haven't noticed any adverse effects. But then, we are cruisers, not racers, so as long as we get from A to B, we are happy. I'm sorry to hear about the damage to your boat. A frightening experience for everyone, I'm sure. Here's hoping you get her sailing soon. Let us know how everything goes. Good luck, Tom   Hi Tom, Thanks for all that detail. Good to know about the weight. We have 50 metres of anchor chain so that should more than compensate. We are cruisers also. Incidentally, our next project was to put a hatch from the head into the port locker, to get more use from that space. So good to read of your exploits with that. You guys are just being so much help over all this. Only know of one other 310 here in the South Island, though there must be others. There are now several of our big sisters in the Waikawa marina which is company, not that we have got ourselves organised to sail together, yet. Have a good weekend. Adrien.   This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more… Special Features Vendor voice. NASA solar sail to be Siriusly visible in orbit from Earth Look out for a new star next week. Updated NASA is to send a solar sail demonstrator into orbit next week, and there is a good chance that the sail, measuring 860 square feet (80 square meters), will be visible from Earth. Advanced Composite Solar Sail System (click to enlarge) Pic: NASA The primary goal of the Advanced Composite Solar Sail System (ACS3) mission is to demonstrate the deployment of a new composite boom made from flexible polymer and carbon fiber materials. Despite being stiffer than previous designs, the tube-shaped boom can be squashed flat and rolled like a tape measure, according to Keats Wilkie, the mission's principal investigator at NASA's Langley Research Center in Hampton, Virginia. Wilkie said: "Booms have tended to be either heavy and metallic or made of lightweight composite with a bulky design – neither of which work well for today's small spacecraft." However, this approach means that the sail's booms can be reduced to a small package "while offering all the advantages of composite materials, like less bending and flexing during temperature changes." Handy, because the 12U CubeSat built by NanoAvionics is hardly a behemoth. Assuming the boom works well, the team hopes to test the sail's performance by angling it to adjust the spacecraft's orbit. The ACS3 is a secondary payload on Rocket Lab's "Beginning Of The Swarm" mission, due to be launched from the company's Launch Complex 1 on April 24. The primary payload on the mission is NEONSAT-1, an Earth observation satellite with a high-resolution camera designed to monitor natural disasters on the Korean Peninsula. Funded by the South Korean government, NEONSAT-1 is due to be joined by other NEONSAT satellites in 2026 and 2027 to build out a constellation. NASA will send astronauts to patch up leaky ISS telescope Mars helicopter sends final message, but will keep collecting data NASA confirms nuclear-powered Dragonfly drone is going to Titan NASA confirms Florida house hit by a piece of ISS battery pack ACS3 will operate in a Sun-synchronous orbit, approximately 600 miles (965 kilometers) above the Earth. Once in orbit, it will unroll its composite booms, and then, approximately 25 minutes later, the solar sail will deploy. Cameras onboard the spacecraft will monitor the deployment. According to NASA: "With its large sail, the spacecraft may be visible from Earth if the lighting conditions are just right. Once fully expanded and at the proper orientation, the sail's reflective material will be as bright as Sirius, the brightest star in the night sky." Well, it's large compared to the NanoAvionics spacecraft bus. At roughly six US parking spots, the sail would be dwarfed by the ISS solar array wings, but should all go well, larger-scale models could be designed and launched. According to NASA: "This boom design could potentially support future solar sails as large as 5,400 square feet (500 square meters), about the size of a basketball court, and technology resulting from the mission's success could support sails of up to 21,500 square feet (2,000 square meters) – about half a soccer field." "Seven meters of the deployable booms can roll up into a shape that fits in your hand," said Alan Rhodes, the mission's lead systems engineer at NASA's Ames Research Center. "The hope is that the new technologies verified on this spacecraft will inspire others to use them in ways we haven’t even considered." Updated to add on April 22: NanoAvionics, maker of the spacecraft bus for the mission, told The Register that development had been challenging. The solar panel and antenna placement had to be carefully designed to avoid interference with the solar sail apparatus, and the attitude of the spacecraft had to become fixable following sail deployment to enable the sail's performance, meaning that sun and ground station tracking became difficult. The company said: "This meant that we had to design the bus with these communication link and power budget constraints in mind."Paul Frey, project manager on this mission, said: "Working with NASA to undertake the development of packing a solar sail into a 12U spacecraft presented both teams with numerous technical challenges. This mission will be an important first step towards using solar propulsion for future deep space exploration." 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Advertise with us Our Websites The Next Platform Blocks and Files Your Privacy Cookies Policy Privacy Policy Ts & Cs Copyright. All rights reserved © 1998–2024 172 IMAGES Solar Power on Sailboats Solar Power on Sailboats DIY sailboat arch Sailboat Arch Catalina 42 mk2 Solar Panel Arch Building the best solar arch for our sailboat VIDEO Attaching solar panels to small boats, the easy way Sailboat solar panel setup, quick easy simple! Expo Solar Sailer Sailboat Portable Solar Power ⛵️ Bluetti PV120S 120W Solar Panel to go with AC60 Power Station 👍 Installing Solar on my Sailboat ~ Hillbilly Solar! ~ Ep. 130 Fabricating the Stainless Steel for the Solar Panel Frame COMMENTS Sailboat Arch Our new Sch 80 Mark2 Sail Arch meets those needs, with a Larger extended truss to provide increased resistance to lateral motion and the ability to easily handle a grid system with up to four large solar panels for morethan 1600 watts of solar. Plus all of our accessories, Tender Handler, Kayak/Paddleboard racks, Starlink antennas, Motor Cranes ... DIY sailboat arch In 2017, Fiona and her husband completed a 3-year, 13,000-mile voyage from Vancouver to Mexico to Australia on their 35-foot sailboat. Solar arches and radar arches are common on cruising sailboats but they can be pricey. We built our own sailboat arch for only $200. Solar Panel Arches for Sailboats Having a solar arch mounted, will also give you the option to carry and hoist a dinghy from the integrated davits. As a sailor, you used to have two options, when looking to mount an arch on your sailboat to carry solar panels and a dinghy on the stern: Buy a 100% standard product, which you then cut and drill so it fits onto your boat. Marine Solar Panels for Sailboats A solar-power installation on a sailboat is made up of two independent systems: one system to charge the batteries, and another system to provide 120-volt AC power for household appliances. In the charging system, the solar panels convert sunlight into electrical current and deliver it to the batteries via a solar charge controller. Yacht Solar Panel Arch (Do This) An arch kit to attach the solar panels and other gear is good. Some arch kits include all the above components, and others are just the arch. To figure out the size of the sailboat solar panel kit you need, calculate the electrical usage for things like: Fridge; Freezer; Lighting; Computer laptop, and cellular charging or usage Sailboat Arch Designed for large monohulls and catamarans, the Super Sail Arch is the "Swiss Army Knife" of saif yatch structures. A modular system with a large array of accessories that clamp on or bolt on allowing you add or chaange equipment at any time. Support large solar panel arrays, lift a center console tender and more. Solar Panel Arches for Sailboats The width of the arch (1,5 m - 4,5 m) Suitable for most sailboats between 25 and 55 feet. The height of the arch (1,2 m - 2,5 m) Forward legs offset, meaning how much you want the forward legs spread out to the sides, relative to the aft legs. Height of horizontal cross-tubes. Length of and distance between davits. Solar Power on Sailboats Here are a few shots from the process of building the new aluminum arch to hold Distant Shores II solar panels. I have done the design ( see blog here ) and took it to FKG in St Martin . I think these guys are the best in the Caribbean for rigging and fabrication of stainless/aluminum projects for boats. How to Install Solar Panels on a Sailboat Another factor you'll need to consider is the size of your boat battery bank. In general, a 100Ah deep cycle battery will need 180 watts of solar to fully charge, assuming you have at least four hours of sunlight a day. Thus, if you have a 200Ah battery bank, you'll need at least 360 watts of solar. In this case, two 200-watt panels would ... Sailboat Solar Systems and How-To He's been living aboard and renovating the boat for the past 3.5 years We're excited to show you the transformation as well as how he plans to propel the boat without the use of diesel or fossil fuels! 5280w Solar System for Electric Powered Catamaran. 16 Rigid solar panels (330w each) 20kwh of Lithium Batteries. Sail Solar Arches Solar arch Eolios Arch. €2,420.00. Solar arch MonoArch ITC ref. 5500. €1,562.00. Experts in stainsteel solar arches for sailboats. Solar arch on a Passage 42 Jul 20, 2018. #1. I'd like to add a stainless steel arch on our Passage 42 for mounting solar panels and am looking for ideas. I've scoured the web and found a few examples. A couple attached entirely to the scoop, the "arch in a box" from Atlantic Towers is like this. Some attach front legs to the deck and back legs to the scoop. Sailboat refit: installing a stainless steel arch for solar panels and In this episode, we install a stainless steal arch at the back of Polar Seal. We go through design alternatives, the construction process and finally the installation of the arch. Our arch support 610 Watts of solar array, a bar for our antennas and davits for our dinghy. Robust Marine Solar Panel Mounting Kits for sailboats, powerboats CMP10100 Panel Mount and Pole - Standard. $. 1,549.00. This panel mounting kit is designed for a solar panel under 27 inches wide including the CMPower 140 watt panel. The kit includes a 66 inch long 1.5 inch OD stainless steel pole, all pole mounting hardware, the panel tilt mechanism and all panel mounting hardware. Sailboat Solar Panel Arch Super Cheap In this Captain's Vlog I build a Solar Arch for the Back of my 32' Ericson Sailboat for the less than $200. I found Stainless Steal arches for over $1400! So... Solar Arch It supported 4 solar panels, but since you are wider you can have more. I had a sail slot tube attached to the front and a zipper added to my Bimini. This allowed for a panel of sunbrella. This provided a lot of sun and rain protection back to the aft end of the solar panels. The cost was about $6K ten years ago. Solar Panels for Sailboats Solar panels for sailboats. We sell quality solar panels and offer advice about installing solar panels on boats. top of page. Home. Our Products. ... We offer a 5% discount when you buy panels and controller from us with your solar arch. Below are some of our most popular panels and controllers. 200 Wp. Our largest panel. Dimensions ... Design ideas for davits/solar arch Later I added a stern arch (no davits) with 2 x 140W panel that are almost six feet long. I also added 2 x 140W panels on top of the dodger, 560W total. Adding a stern arch-davit to an already completed boat brings up the matter of finding a reputable stainless steel fabricator experienced in this work at a reasonable price. Arch for solar panel 2,309. Catalina 310 Quincy, MA. Feb 11, 2013. #4. I once priced s/s arches. Around 3,000-5,000 dollars before solar panels, etc. I decided to go with davits with the panel mounted on them. Turns out to work very well for us. Total cost was less than $2,000, including panel, controller, mounting hardware, etc. NASA solar sail to be Siriusly visible in orbit from Earth The primary goal of the Advanced Composite Solar Sail System (ACS3) mission is to demonstrate the deployment of a new composite boom made from flexible polymer and carbon fiber materials.. Despite being stiffer than previous designs, the tube-shaped boom can be squashed flat and rolled like a tape measure, according to Keats Wilkie, the mission's principal investigator at NASA's Langley ... catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht