sailboat anchor swivels

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Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance, anchor to chain connection guide.

Look around any marina, harbour, or anchorage, and you will find various methods employed to join a yacht’s anchor to the anchor rode.

There is no right or wrong way to attach the two, but there are some general principles to follow which should lead to a successful conclusion.

Applying the following principles to the decision-making process should lead to the optimum setup of any individual anchoring system.

How to choose the correct anchor shackles and connectors for your yacht or boat and how to fit them together in the proper manner.

Galvanised or Stainless Steel

Generally speaking, avoiding contact between dissimilar metals is better because of the eventual corrosive reaction. Still, the widespread use of stainless steel connections on galvanised anchor systems indicates that the deterioration is either very slow or manageable.

Therefore, with the proper precautions, a combination of the two metals is acceptable where required - read more on Dissimilar Metals

The decision for stainless steel anchors and chain is relatively straightforward - use stainless steel fittings to join the two together. There is a wide range of different makes and models to suit all budgets - Purchase Anchor Connectors

For galvanised anchors and chain, a galvanised connection is a natural choice. However, the options available are realistically limited to shackles only - Purchase Anchoring Shackles

Galvanised Dee and Bow shape shackles generally feature a protruding head with a hole drilled through it for a. Tightening and b. Securing the pin. It is worth noting that any protrusion may cause snagging or jamming through the stem head roller. Flush-fitting pins are mostly found on stainless steel shackles.

Correct Alignment of Load Bearing Surfaces

Spread the load by matching the length and shape of the two bearing surfaces as closely as possible, e.g. a round pin in a snug round hole with both parts the same length. Avoid pinpoint loads.

Providing Articulation

There is always the possibility of an ‘awkward’ force being exerted on the anchor shank and the connection to the anchor chain when the wind shifts or the tidal set reverses. The issue may be compounded when the anchor is retrieved, i.e. not a straight pull. Therefore, the anchor connection must be capable of coping with a wrench from any direction.

Allowing or Encouraging Rotation

An anchor will not successfully dock into the stem head fitting if it is facing up the wrong way. An anchor swivel connector will allow the anchor to rotate as it approaches the bow roller. Some connectors are designed to actively twist or flip the anchor into the correct plane for re-entry.

Strength and Quality

Components that are rated with a manufacturer-minimum break load will provide reassurance. The integrity of any anchor system can be compromised by one weak link. The working life of each part will depend on the quality of the base metal and the finish. Steel should be a minimum grade 40 and treated with hot dip galvanising. N.B. Electroplating will not last very long in a marine environment. Stainless steel should be a minimum grade 3 marine quality A316.

Good Practice

Couple shackles together ‘back to back', i.e. with the two crowns bearing against one another.

Fit the largest diameter pin possible through the end link of the chain for the strongest possible joint.

Fit the largest, shortest pin possible through any ‘square cut’ hole, e.g. the slot in some anchor shanks.

Use the more open-rounded shape of bow shackles to allow more freedom of movement (articulation) where required.

Use D shackles to achieve a narrower fitting, especially those with a flush head to the pin.

You can take advantage of the oversized bow shackles that are factory fitted to some anchor brands, e.g. CQR. These shackles often feature a flush pin head with the thread permanently welded.

Unilateral Movement

Fit a connector that provides for flip, twist, swivel, and articulation - all in one design, if possible, e.g. Ultra Flip Swivel

The Dee shackle in this example appears superfluous - this type of connector provides for rotation and lateral loading but is not readily available with a manufacturer-guaranteed breaking strain.

This shackle is not correctly aligned on the anchor slot but is oversized to compensate and facilitates unilateral movement in the correct location. The Osculati Twist Connector has a long banana-shaped body to flip the anchor into the correct position for docking on the stem head and incorporates a swivel for rotation.

Introduce three links of anchor chain between a standard swivel, e.g. a Kong design and the anchor. This ensures articulation between the anchor and the swivel, preventing lateral loading.  Buy 3 Links Of Anchor Chain

Use a Maillon Rapide (Chain Repair Link) - see Pros and Cons listed below the picture.

Pros: a good quality threaded chain repair link, e.g. Maillon Rapide link, can be as strong as the same size chain. This connection offers a streamlined attachment with no snagging and a sympathetic load-bearing surface to the end link in the chain or the anchor connector pin.

Cons: the thread may require a little filing to fit through a calibrated chain - it requires a thread-locking compound because seizing is impossible - in the picture above, it does not allow lateral movement on the anchor connector.

Bad Practice

Joining shackles together ‘pin to pin’ will result in the bearing edges sliding from side to side.

Fitting the crown of a shackle through a ‘square cut’ hole so that the shackle bears on two unsympathetic stress points.

Freedom of Movement

Joining an anchor connector directly to the anchor shank with no freedom of lateral movement is not recommended.

This method is prevalent and looks very neat, but there is a strong possibility that, at some point, it will result in some damage or even failure when the anchor is trapped on the seabed.

Anchor swivel connector with no articulation - the extra shackle on the chain seems superfluous.

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How to Select and Install the Right Anchor Rode

While you're selecting your ground tackle and picking out the perfect anchor, you'll also need to select an anchor rode which is a good fit for your a boat and your sailing plans. Fortunately, there aren't as many options for a rode as there are types of anchors!

The size of the rode depends on the length and weight of your boat, and the length depends on the water depths in your cruising grounds. Choose rope and chain combinations by where you plan to sail and what ground tackle handling gear you have on your boat.

Let me make it easy for you by walking you through it step by step. to get to the right type and size anchor rode for your particular situation.

On this page:

What is a rode, chain versus rope/chain, about chain, how much rode do i need, putting it all together.

The best rode for your boat depends on answers to these questions:

• Is my cruising location better with an all-chain rode, or a rope/chain combination?
• What is the proper size and type of chain and rope for my boat?
• What type of line should I use for a rode?
• How should my rode be put together?
• How long should my rode be?

The answers to these questions will take you to right rode for your boat. So let's look at them in more depth and come up with some answers.

An anchor rode connects the anchor to the boat. You may use rope or chain, but rope rodes will always have a length of chain on the end if they're going to be effective.

Its primary job is to hold the boat at anchor. To do this well, it needs to absorb shock loads as the boat moves, and have the working strength to hold the boat.

A rode may include line, chain, one or more shackles, seizing wire, and certain accessories like anchor swivels. It needs sufficient strength in all components to hold the boat when the breeze picks up. The adage that a chain is as strong as its weakest link applies to every piece of equipment in your rode.

The first decision to be made is whether an all chain rode is suitable for your boat, or if a rope/chain combination is better for you. Both types have advantages and disadvantages, and there are some applications where one type is definitely worse than the other.

Think about where you will anchor your boat, whether you have a windlass (manual or electric), and how often you plan to anchor.

All Chain Rodes

It's impossible to chafe an all chain road on rocks or coral. They can't be cut without power tools or any forces you're likely to encounter. A chain rode is much heavier than rope, which gives better holding power for a shorter scope. Chain gypsies in a windlass don't slip, and the chain shouldn’t jam or bind. These advantages make them very popular with world cruisers and people who anchor in the tropics.

But all chain rode is really heavy - the 100 meter, 12mm rode on our boat weighs 660 pounds. I can't get it on or off the boat easily when it's in the water, and it's impossible to move around by hand. Even on a smaller boat, a chain rode will outweigh rope. If you don't have an electric windlass, hauling anchor can be a back-breaking job.

That weight also affects a boat's trim - too much weight in the bow affects your sailing and can put a boat off her lines to float bow down. And chain offers no shock absorption, so you need snubber with lines to take shock loads from waves and wind as a boat moves.

Rope/Chain Rodes

The weight advantages are clear; you can easily carry even a large rope rode and move it around. If you don't have a windlass, or only have a manual one, line rodes are easier. Hauling chain is grueling work. And rope rodes have built in stretch and shock absorption.

There are downsides. You need a hefty length of chain before the anchor to add weight and protect the chain from rubbing on bottom hazards. Without the chain, you won't get a good angle of pull on the anchor and the anchor will pull right out.

Most coastal cruisers and racers prefer rope/chain rodes for their easy of handling and lightweight . You can get by without a windlass, and you can carry more length for deeper water without excessive weight.

Chain comes in several grades and types of metal, as well as different link sizes and styles. You choose your chain based on how much load you need to hold, and if you have a windlass, by the size of your gypsy.

Types of Metal

Most anchor chain is galvanized steel. Some choose stainless because of its corrosion resistance and appearance, but it is considerably more expensive and may not have the same load capacity as some heat treated, galvanized chain.

Some grades include:

• High-test may be marked HT, G4, or HT4.
• Grade 70 HT is heat treated steel has about 20% higher working and breaking loads that grade 40. It is difficult to re-galvanize.
• Proof Coil is grade 40 low carbon steel with markings of PC, PC3 or sometimes G3.
• BBB is marked 3B or BBB and is a short link chain compared to PC or HT. It is also lower grade 30 low carbon steel.

Chain Sizing

Chain dimensions vary with link size and length and diameter of the rod used to make the link. Chain labeled as 3/8 inch is made from 3/8" diameter rod stock, but that says nothing about the size of the link. A link may be longer or shorter, and you will need to know the right size if you plan to use it with a gypsy.

For more details on chain sizing and construction, check out How to Measure Your Anchor Chain .

Picking the line for your rode and the matching chain is a function of your boat size, budget, preferences. You've got a few options, but any of them will work well.

Types of line used in rodes

You have your choice of three strand nylon , double braid , or 8-plait rope. Each has strengths and weaknesses. If you have a windlass , it is critical that you check your instruction manual, since not all types of rope are compatible with all windlasses.

The best material for anchor rodes is nylon. It's strong and stretchy, rot-resistant, and it sinks, which helps the anchor hold. Cheaper polyethylene lines aren't suitable and often float. High modulus aramid lines are overkill for the job; they are very strong, but they are also expensive and have little stretch. So keep them in your running rigging where they belong.

Three-strand nylon is popular because it is less expensive, tough, easy to splice, has good elasticity for shock absorption, and it resists chafing. On the downside, it's stiff and tougher to coil and prone to tangling and taking up space. It's also not as strong as double braid, and may catch in a windlass more often.

Double braid is the strongest option, and is more flexible, easier to handle, and sturdier than three-strand. It also will flake and coil into less space for storage. But it is more difficult to splice to the chain and has less stretch and shock absorption.

8-Plait anchor rope is soft and easy to handle, and flakes to a compact size in the bow locker. It absorbs more water than the other lines, so it comes up heavier but falls into the locker nicely. 8-Plait is similar in strength three-strand, but weaker than double-braid. And it's less stretchy than three-strand, but may not feed through a windlass as easily.

Line sizing

The standard formula for line sizing is easy - add 1/8" of line diameter (or 3mm) per nine feet (a little under three meters) of the boat. And make sure you round up, it's better to be too strong than too weak..

So a 22' boat would use 3/8" line (22/9 = 2.444, round to 3 x 1/8"), a 45' boat needs 5/8" line, and a 50 footer requires 3/4".

You can always size upwards if you can handle and store the road, or if you have a heavier displacement boat for its length. A Tartan 27 (7,400 lbs.) is going to pull harder on the anchor rode than a 3,000 lb. Santa Cruz 27, so you should think about a tougher line for the Tartan.

Chain sizing and length

If you want good holding power and chafe protection, you need to add a length of chain to your rode. It's possible to get away without a chain for something like a stern anchor or an anchor you keep on your race boat only to meet a rule requirement. But none of those would be suitable for overnight stays on the boat or anything but short term anchoring in mild conditions.

For sizing the chain, use chain about 1/2 the diameter of the selected rope, rounded up. For length, the ideal minimum length is one boat length, but if you feel you can carry and haul more, then more chain is always better. The absolute bare minimum should be 10-15' on small boats, if you don't have space for more.

A good rule of thumb for rode length is at least eight times the maximum depth you expect to anchor in. That is the depth at high tide, not low tide. To get that number, have some knowledge of where you plan to cruise.

With a relatively restricted cruising range where know the waters, this is easier to estimate. Chesapeake Bay sailors, with an average depth of about twenty-four feet, rarely need more than 200' of line, and will almost always be anchoring with a lot less. But in New England, if you need to drop in thirty-five feet of water in Block Island's New Harbor, you'll use almost all of a 300' rope rode.

In theory, you can use less chain, but when sizing your rode it's better to have a too much than not enough. Too little, and you can't anchor where you want to. And if you are at the end of your rode and bad weather comes through, you have no way to secure yourself by letting out more scope.

No matter which rode you select, you're going to put it together, and put it on the boat so it stays in place. There are a few tricks to know to get a solid setup, and a few parts you will need.

Seizing is something you will use in either assembly. It's using stainless wire to wrap shackles up so they can not come undone. All shackles used from the anchor to the boat should be seized. We're going to repeat this instruction, because it's important, as we walk you through securing your anchor to the boat with the rode.

No matter your rode style, you’ll need at least one big shackle to attach the anchor. Pay close attention to working load - not all shackles are created equal! You do not want an undersized shackle, but big, strong, galvanized shackles aren’t as expensive as you think.

Selecting the right ground tackle

The rode and shackle are both part of the anchor's ground tackle. For help on selecting your ground tackle and sizing it appropriately, I recommend reading my detailed guide here.

Your components, from boat to anchor:

Anchoring Ring in the bow locker, anchor rode strop , chain , (optional anchor swivel ), shackle , anchor .

There should be a ring or other hard point in the chain locker to connect the bitter end of your chain. The rode strop is a piece of tough line, like Spectra or other high modulus line, long enough to reach from the locker up through the hole to the deck.

Connect the chain to the boat with line rather than a shackle through the ring and the last link in the chain. If you need to release the anchor and rode in an emergency, you can pull this line up to the deck and cut it with a knife. With a shackle, you'll need a hacksaw or angle grinder.

If you plan to use an anchor swivel, attach it to the far end of the chain as per the manufacturer's instructions.

Attach the anchor to the chain (or the swivel) with the shackle. The pin of the shackle should go through the chain, and the loop should go through the anchor shank. Seize the shackle.

Don't forget your snubber! If you have an all-chain rode, you will need a snubber - a length of anchor line attached to a chain hook. Take the load of the windlass with the snubber and tie it off on a cleat. Without a snubber, you have no shock absorption for loads the chain, and may damage your windlass.

Rope/Chain Rode

A rope/chain road will need to have the rope and chain attached to each other. You can do this with an eye splice at the end of the rope and a shackle (which you will seize!), or by splicing the rope to the chain.

Most prefer direct splicing where there is a windlass, as the splice is smaller and will flow through the windlass. Just be sure to check the splice from time to time to make sure it's not unraveling. If you don't want to do the splice yourself, get the rode from a rigger and have them splice it on for you, or put in the eye splice if that is your preference.

Tie the bitter end to the boat in the anchor locker to an attachment point there, and attach the end of the chain to the with a shackle anchor and seize it.

Mark Your Rode

When you're setting your anchor, it's handy to know how much rode you've put out. Taking an hour or two to mark your rode takes out the guesswork.

You can use paint, chain markers, nylon tags, and even spinnaker cloth. Look at How to Mark and Measure Anchor Chain and Rode for a few ideas.

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You may also like, boat anchor selection guide: choose the perfect type & size.

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How Well Do Anchor Swivels Reduce Chain Twist?

We know the theory behind using an anchor swivel: The swivel releases any twists in the chain when an anchored boat swings through 360 degrees or more. Still, as I’ve addressed in previous blog posts , we question the logic of using one. Our skepticism is supported by our own experience, previous testing, and input from long-term cruisers, but we also wanted to devise a test to investigate chain twisting.

We took 30 feet of 5/16-inch chain and freely suspended it roughly horizontal between two secure points. We tensioned the chain to about 90 pounds of load. We had a swivel at both ends; the top swivel was a standard cheap swivel that allowed us to manually twist the chain. At the anchor end, we tried two different name-brand swivels, the Mantus swivel (for sizes 5/16-inch to 3/8-inch chain) and a 5/16-inch, galvanized Acco swivel.

Working from the top, we twisted the chain to find out how many twists in produced enough torque to allow the attached Mantus or Acco swivel to release the turns.

The results were surprising. The Acco galvanized swivel took eight complete twists in the chain before it started to turn, and the Mantus swivel took 6.5 turns. Given that typically skippers might be deploying three times the amount of chain we tested with, it is obvious that several more turns-possibly three times as many-would be required for the bottom swivel to make any difference.

In order to transmit torque onto the swivel, the chain will need to free of the seabed, requiring more load (about 160 pounds for 100 feet of 5/16-inch chain in 20 feet of water), and the torque required to release twists will be higher than in our simple test.

In our view, it is unlikely that the swivel will reduce anything but a large number of twists, and these twists could be removed more safely and easily by slowing down the retrieval once the anchor clears the bottom. A slower retrieval also prevents the hydrodynamic force on an unbalanced anchor that might cause it to spin. In fact, anchor spin upon retrieval with a high-speed windlass is probably the most likely cause of twist, and is often mistakenly attributed to the windlass itself. Ironically, if your anchor rotates in a beneficial direction as it comes up, the swivel might actually prevent the anchors rotations from untwisting the chain.

If your anchor chain is twisted to the point that it is forming hockles or causing it to jump from the windlass, you will want to deploy all the chain, untwist it manually, and load it back into the locker. You can do this ashore (and mark your chain lengths at the same time, if needed), but it is often easier in deep water.

Unless you are retrieving the anchor so fast that it spins like a whirl-a-gig, or the tide and wind is spinning you around like a barber pole, you should not have to untangle it again for months or more.

Jonathan Neeves

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32 comments.

Maybe it’s not valid (I don’t have enough experience to know) but the argument I read for a swivel is that it prevents chain twist that could dislodge a previously set anchor. Your article did not address this concern directly, but are you suggesting that, given what you’ve explained, it’s extremely unlikely that chain twist could ever un-set an anchor? This would be an interesting proposition to set up a field test for.

Many years ago(1969) I moored my 27′ sailboat to an old engine block with chain without a swivel. Over the course of the Winter, the chain twisted and shortened to a point that the vessel dragged the engine block ashore in a strong wind.

In the Bahamas, there are anchorages where you spin around the anchor several times a day. If you stay there for 4 days, you’ve got maybe 12 twists. After weighing anchor, you maybe go to another anchorage where the same thing happens. Maybe it’s a couple of months before you visit a marina where you can untwist the chain on a dock. I don’t believe that everyone needs an anchor swivel, but I think that there are situations where they are a very good idea.

I anchor frequently and never have used a swivel, either in all chain or rope/chain combination.

Thanks for investigating this issue! We’re in the Caribbean now, anchoring almost every day. I’ve been wondering how the twists occur. One theory I have is that as the boat swings through an arc, the chain drags sideways, rolling on the bottom. Does our Mantus swivel actually make this worse, as there is less resistance to twist? Would be nice if this aspect were tested in a controlled fashion.

I use a swivel. I find it helps prepare the anchor for stowage on my rollers by allowing me to turn the anchor with a boat hook if it comes up and is not facing the correct way to ride the rollers.

As mentioned, my experience is that a slow retrieval of the anchor chain seems to be the best defense for reducing the chain twists.

OUTSIDE THE EXPENSE OF A SWIVEL, WHAT’S THE HARM IN IT’S USE? IS THE SWIVEL THE PROVERBIAL WEEK LINK? AS WAS MENTIONED IN THE ARRTICLE THE SWIVEL DID WORK AFTER SEVERAL TWISTS, SO MAYBE BETTER TO USE THAN NOT? LOOKING FOR MORE INFO.

Anchoring and using a mooring chain are two different things. You always use a swivel in a mooring chain set-up exactly for the reasons you describe.

In my own experience, even with tide changes, my boat does not always spin the same direction for both tides. So it spins the chain a couple times the. I spins other times. I’m sure there are exceptions though.

My main concerns about swivels is they have been known to fail. I know sailors that have had them fail. Most sailors I know who insist on using a swivel do so because the shackle connecting the chain to the does not easily pass over the bow roller or they get frustrated trying to get the anchor oriented correctly to roll up over the roller properly oriented for stowage. I have always managed to work it out with a little patience and the use sometimes of a boat hook.

From what I read, and my own experience over 60 years of anchoring, a swivel is not necessary m, at all. Perhaps on a chain mooring , but not on a cruising yacht that stays in anchors but a few days.

I have an oversized Mantus swivel.

Reading multiple opinions that swivels are bad, I tried going back to a simple shackle but found that the bloody thing will catch and bang on the bow rollers or foul on the bow roller cheeks. It is distinctly more violent in passing over the bow roller.

The Mantus swivel by comparison flows over the bow rollers much more smoothly.

With a breaking strength significantly greater than the 5/16” HT chain, I do not think it is the weak link so the Mantus swivel stays in place.

I’ve had the same experience, Evan. I have a Mantus, too, and find it allows much smoother retrieval of my Bruce anchor over the bow roller and to the windlass.

Love gadgets and swivels seemed like a good idea based on faith as a weekend cruiser for many years. We’ve been cruising full time and living on the hook for 5 years now and I removed the swivel (Mantus) after the first year as it wasn’t doing anything, the chain usually came up with plenty of twists anyway.

I learned to keep the chain correctly oriented in the windlass gypsy and bring it up slowly when the twists start appearing and the chain will come up all the way oriented correctly untwisted. Bringing it up slowly is more to prevent the chain from jumping the gypsy than spinning the anchor which will happen anyway. I have a zip tie marking where to stop the chain on the gypsy when the anchor is home that is oriented UP so I know the chain is oriented correctly or not and can manually adjust if it jumps. As long as I deploy and raise the anchor and the chain doesn’t jump the gypsy it stays oriented correctly as indicated by the zip tie.

Early on, one of the biggest mistakes I’ve made was to dump all 500 feet of chain while tied up to a mooring bouy to untwist it and it created such a huge tangled ball it took me hours to fix!

I have had 150 ft of 3/8 BBB backed up by 200 ft of 5/8 NER Megabraid, with a Maxwell reversing solenoid 3500 windlass!! In 7 years of sailing around the world, mostly at anchor and not in marinas, and 3 round trip Atlantic Crossing from Florida, I have never used an anchor swivel and have never needed one. The trick is to retrieve your anchor and anchor chain slowly, and let it spin itself out of turns in the chain as it rises to the surface from the sea bed. At least that’s always been a solution for our 39 foot sloop especially easy in deep water!!!

In 50 years of sailing and working aboard various types of workboats, I have never once felt the need for an anchor swivel.

For me, the benefit of using a swivel is at the end of anchor retrieval. It allows the anchor to align with the bow roller. I have not seen evidence of twist in the chain, but sometimes the anchor comes up facing the wrong way to be stowed.

My swivel is rated for approximately the same load as the other components of the anchoring system (chain, rode, shackles). Perhaps I am lucky, but the swivel has not failed, nor have I heard of failure from any of my sailing friends.

I suspect that any twist is generated by the anchor’s motion through the water during retrieval, rather than from the boat rotating around the anchor several times while actually anchored. It’s hard to know what actually happens without an underwater camera.

We lived aboard a 89 Tartan. We had a 66# Spade on 200′ of 3/8 chain. This anchor always came over bow roller upside down until I replaced the swivel with a very expensive SS ball bearing swivel. It never happened again. I never understood why but the new swivel made our lives much better.

Fran Cichowski

My 66# Spade ALWAYS comes up backward too, and I have a Mantus swivel. I’m thinking the shape of the spade must twist it that way on retrieval. I’m going to start retrieving more slowly this season as that is the only thing I can think of that causes this.

I don’t use a swivel and don’t think they’re needed for general anchoring. Having said that I’m not sure the test method in the article is a good real world test. A swivel in real world use would be be lubricated by water, and it would have much more intermittent loading and movement than this static load. I suspect those factors would allow it to untwist at many less turns than this test suggests.

I agree A static load in dry conditions is a poor model of what occurs in real conditions. PS has provided essentially a single data point and I would take the info as such.

Not to mention how many redundant systems/contingencies/backup to the back ups sailors routinely employ.

Capt. Ron, [email protected] was spot on identifying a basic flaw in this study’s design. Namely, an anchor rode is NOT suspended in dry air, but beneath water which acts as an important lubricant helping the links untwist while encouraged by the swivel. It further assists untwisting due to the waves/boat pulsing action being experienced at anchor and while weighing anchor. While readers’ anecdotal comments have interest, I much prefer such sage advice as 1.) the U. S. C. G. illustration and recommendation on page 59 of their “A BOATER’S GUIDE TO THE FEDERAL REQUIREMENTS FOR RECREATIONAL BOATS” which illustrates a rode’s swivel, and 2.) a leading windlass manufacturer, Maxwell, Installation’s “General Requirements” specifically stipulates a swivel’s placement on the chain “to prevent the line from twisting”. There are many junk swivels available, instead, spend a few extra bucks to install a rated, high-quality one, such as Mantus, Norestar, Maxwell, Lewmar or Ultra.

In many years of cruising, I have found a swivel useful when moored to a mooring. I use a 1″ swivel on my 41′ Gulfstar Ketch. At anchor, the only way the swivel would reliably work is if the swivel will be in the lower catenary when a modest load is applied. If it is at the anchor, for it to release, the entire catenary needs to be off the bottom; this can occur, just BEFORE it pulls the anchor out, in which case “it works” The best place to test is Barra de Navidad, Jalisco, MX or Boca Chica Panama, both of which have a reliable 360deg turn every tide cycle. Boca Chica has a strong current which pulled the catenary off the bottom every slack, which released the twists. Someday was left at anchor 6 months after which there were a very modest number of twists; Barra on the other hand has a mid current, and our anchor chain hockled after less than 2 months, even with the 1″ swivel at the anchor. Water depth was 13’at low, about 65-70 feet out, sheltered lagoon. My theory is there was never enough current to lift the chain so it could spin.

One further comment, If you have a swivel at the anchor, to get the chain to unwind more quickly, back against the anchor without breaking it loose, until the chain is off the bottom, it will mostly unwind quite rapidly.

Thank you for this research. It would have been helpful if those responding had given the make & model of their windlass or the retrieval rate. Mine is a Maxwell HWC1500 with 300′ of 5/16″ HT Acco/Peerless Galvanized chain, both installed 12.5 years ago and reversed once 6.5 years ago. It is a fast-retrieving windlass which I have been thankful for in the past but I have come to the same conclusion as your findings lately; retrieving slowly is better. However, anchoring in Northwest deep waters can take a lot of chain compared to other areas; I would say my average anchoring depth is 60′ and I have anchored in as much as 100′ on an ideal night. My rode is normally 150-200′ and 250′ on occasion.

During the windlass install I had the roller at the far end of my anchor roller grooved to accept a chain link thinking it would help eliminate twist before the chain got to the gypsy. I believe that helped initially but not with advancing chain age. The chain reversal also helped initially but was lost again with chain age. The advantage of minimal friction (as in new chain) of the chain makes all the difference with twist correction.

I once anchored in Blenkinsop Bay just off Johnstone Strait in Brithish Columbia and found the boat in a near constant rotation throughout the night. So, selecting an anchorage that minimizes current rotation would be best advised.

I use a swivel on my now powerboat. I have tried various swivels, but the big problem is that there is too much friction on the swivels that I tried to allow it to turn/swivel freely. The solution that I found that works well is an ultra-swivel, expensive yes but works. One of my concerns was handling the anchor when it was entering the bow rollers. I did not want to have to flip a 120 rocna Vulan by hand. Too easy to lose some fingers. The ultra swivel is designed to flip anchor into the correct entry position and does a good job of flipping. Key is to proceed slowly and allow the swivel to work using a gradual engagement to the rollers. If you do it fast is can be quite violent, and potential could cause some damage.

We have a Bruce 30-kg anchor attached to a Wasi Powerball swivel for the sole reason of being able to manipulate the anchor to the correct attitude for going over the anchor roller. We have done literally thousands of anchor deployments and retrievals. The swivel we have solves an important issue but has nothing to do with untwisting anchor chain.

Fair winds and calm seas.

I was sold on the idea of a swivel on the anchor chain and I bought an expensive one. I later found that it was the swivel that needed attention often to keep it working. I lived aboard for 3 years in the Caribbean and did away with the swivel.

I have a Kong 316 stainless steel swivel anchor connector. It connects a 20′ length of 1/4″ diameter PC chain to my anchor. The anchor is a 22 pound Lewmar Delta. 200′ of 1/2″ nylon rode is spliced to the chain. We pull the anchor up manually, the boat does not have a windlass. We anchor in sand, clay, or mud. I have anchored about 40 times with my current boat, always less than 24 hours at a time. Normally we anchor with at least 10:1 scope, frequently more. The chain and rode has never had twists or hockles. The anchor has never dragged or released. The boat is a Beneteau 321 sailboat that weighs about 9,800 pounds.

We use an anchor self-righting link to always bring the anchor into the bow roller properly, and have a swivel between the chain and the link, eliminating chain twist going into the gypsy when stowing the chain. Here’s a description of the self righting link: Anchor Self Righting Chain Flip Link, https://www.groundtackle.com/online-store/Anchor-Self-Righting-Chain-Flip-Link-p66386944

It works great, every time.

I have a lofrans anchor winch. The gypsie does not allow the chain to rotate. If you stay at anchor for a number of days it has been my experience that you will do a number of loopty loops winding the chain. As you bring in shortening scope chain tightens the twist which was quite noticeable without a swivel and would not unwind during the lifting from the bottom to the boat. If there is a lot of friction in the swivel the chain does not necessarily unwind. The galvanized swivels did not mitigate the twisting in the chain. As I noted in a previous post the ulta-swivel does remove most twist. So when you look at a swivel, put some load in tension on it and see if it turns if it does not maybe a no swivel would be a better solution IMO.

It is worth mentioning that you shouldn’t use a swivel with 3-strand rode, because under high load it can untwist, unlay, and potential hockle if the load is released suddenly. As long as the rode is fixed against rotation at both ends (the anchor and where you cleated it off) the rope cannot twist and this is not a problem. This is not a problem with braided rope.

When anchoring through many tidal swings it is good practice to uncleat and recleat every week taking in or letting out 10 feet of rode, both to limit the UV exposure of the length between the hawes pipe and the water, and to reduce algae growth on the rope. In the case of a permanent mooring pendant we recommend oversized braided line with a chafe cover.

A single 3-strand snubber line will also do this, twisting the chain rode around it. The result can be severe chafe of the snubber in just a night or two. For this reason, braided snubbers are preferred. On the other hand, I have used 3-strand for bridle snubbers with a wide angle (catamaran); because it is a triangle, it is fixed against rotation and does not twist. A bridle with a narrow angle (monohull) my twist, although I have not seen that.

As with most aspect of anchoring there is never one right answer. What works for you, or me, does not necessarily work for someone else. As an example…

When an anchor is deployed and tension applied to the rode the anchor then addresses the seabed and – we hope – the anchor engages with the seabed and then sets. Simple stuff. But as the anchor engages, the toes starts to dig in then – with most modern anchors – the shackle end of the shank also digs in. The toe and the shackle bury, roughly, at the same rate. The anchor, again if it is a modern anchor, has been designed with a thin (strong) shank – because a beefy shank resists penetration and burial. If you add a swivel to your rode it will be the biggest component in the rode, bigger than the shackle and ‘fatter’ than the shank – and your swivel will detract from anchor performance.

Adding a swivel needs to be considered in combination with the rest of the rode, the chain, anchor, shackle and windlass – not considered in isolation.

The best way to remove twists in the chain is to retrieve the anchor until the anchor hangs vertically – torque will remove virtually all twists – but whether your chain is hanging in the air (and is dry) or in water the friction between the links will be sufficient to leave at least half a twist in the chain – this half twist may never ‘untwist’ and your anchor may arrive at the bow roller ‘upside’ down – now matter how good your swivel – the swivel also suffers from friction. Fortunately anchor design is such, for other reasons, that if it arrives upside down it will commonly self right – so why have a swivel……?

Our Maxwell windlass retrieves quickly – so quickly that there is insufficient time for the anchor to self right, itself, and you either need a device that automatically self rights the anchor – or you stop the windlass before the anchor reaches the bow roller and you manually right the anchor.

One redeeming feature to twists in the rode – they will not pass through the chain wheel/gypsy.

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Swivels are used to attach an anchor to the chain with the purpose of preventing chain twisting as the boat moves around in the anchorage. Swivels also help the anchor come up in the correct orientation into the bow roller on retrieval.

In the practical sense swivels are often unnecessary unless you intend to anchor for a long time in one spot, further twist usually gets undone as the chain is retrieved with the windlass. If anchored in one spot for an extended period or if designing a mooring system swivels do solve a problem.

Swivels are generally considered to be the weakest link between your anchor and the boat. One issue is swivels often fit directly into the shank and if so can be side loaded (when the anchor is stuck in rocks for example) and fail at much lower loads than the SWL they are rated for. To solve this attach a shackle or a shackle with some chain to the anchor first and then the swivel this will prevent the above mentioned problem with side loading. Further it is often hard to size a swivel to match the strength of the HI TEST chain, though some well-designed products are available on the market they are often really expensive.

It is generally recommended to use a short pieces of chain attached to the anchor via a shackle and then attach the swivel bridging chain to chain. This will prevent both swivel jamming as seen above and the side loading issue.

There many brands available on the market and one should pay attention to the SWL (safe working load) rating on the swivel as compared to the chain. Further if using a stainless steel swivel on the galvanized chain, try to isolate the two materials with insulating tape to reduce the galvanic interaction between the two dissimilar metals.

One issue is swivels often fit directly into the shank and if so can be side loaded (when the anchor is stuck in rocks for example) and fail at much lower loads than the SWL they are rated for. To solve this attach a shackle or a shackle with some chain to the anchor first and then the swivel this will prevent the above mentioned problem with side loading. Further it is often hard to size a swivel for to match the strength of the HI TEST chain, though some well-designed products are available on the market.

One should pay attention to the SWL (safe working load) rating on the swivel as compared to the chain.

Mantus Swivel – is stronger than the chain and does not side load

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A Short Story About An Anchor Swivel

• Thread starter Terry Cox
• Start date Oct 15, 2020
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

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Charlie Jones s/v Tehani

Are you talking about the chain to rode connection? I haven't use a swivel there for years. I use a splice around the final link. I've used that for many many cruising miles with zero trouble https://www.neropes.com/services/splicing/3-strand-rope-to-chain-splice/  

Michael Davis

Charlie Jones s/v Tehani said: Are you talking about the chain to rode connection? I haven't use a swivel there for years. I use a splice around the final link. I've used that for many many cruising miles with zero trouble https://www.neropes.com/services/splicing/3-strand-rope-to-chain-splice/ Click to expand

You are correct, Michael. Hard to tell from the picture, but it is the chain to anchor connection. Helps to eliminate rode twist while at anchor.  

Before spending your money I would suggest you read Rod's take on them at marinehowto.com. I won't use one after reading that.  

Mantus Swivel

Rich Stidger

I too have purchased a Mantus swivel in hope to eliminate the twists and the anchor coming up "backwards" into the anchor roller. It will be installed next spring.  

I also don't use a swivel chain to anchor- just a heavy shackle. Never have any trouble at all with twist  

capta said: Before spending your money I would suggest you read Rod's take on them at marinehowto.com. I won't use one after reading that. Click to expand

Terry Cox said: The article did suggest replacing the swivel every two or three years, which seem overkill, IMHO. Click to expand

Isn't a swivel the weakest link in the chain rode system? I haven't re-visited the arithmetic lately but 1260 lbs. WL seems a bit light. I thought swivels had fallen out of favor decades ago.  

jssailem said: Perhaps the reason it seems like overkill for your boat use is because it is. The mooring is in the water on a constant basis. Your swivel use only sees the water when your boat is at anchor. You should get nearly the equivalent use when you have anchored for 900 plus nights. Click to expand

shemandr said: Isn't a swivel the weakest link in the chain rode system? I haven't re-visited the arithmetic lately but 1260 lbs. WL seems a bit light. I thought swivels had fallen out of favor decades ago. Click to expand

Twisting your chain is worse than getting your panties in a bunch.  

jssailem said: Twisting your chain is worse than getting your panties in a bunch. Click to expand

We use a swivel on our mooring. A huge oversized one, 1 1/4' on 5/8 chain and 1 1/4" nylon. But I still cannot see the value in an anchor rode swivel. I do have an off topic question, why do you run the chain under the second roller? I would assume that puts a lot of extra stress on the windlass and tears up rollers pretty quickly.  

jssailem said: I went with Mantus Swivel. I liked the design. I think it has an advantage over the traditional design. Mantus Swivel The Strongest Link in Your Chain. Mantus swivel is stronger than its corresponding Grade 40 chain. (WLL is 1/5 UBS) Integrated shackle design completely eliminates side loading making this the safest swivel on the market. www.mantusmarine.com Only used a couple of times. It worked as advertised. Click to expand

capta said: We use a swivel on our mooring. A huge oversized one, 1 1/4' on 5/8 chain and 1 1/4" nylon. But I still cannot see the value in an anchor rode swivel. I do have an off topic question, why do you run the chain under the second roller? I would assume that puts a lot of extra stress on the windlass and tears up rollers pretty quickly. Click to expand

Terry Cox said: What would be an acceptable working load in your mind? Do swivels serve an important function, or are they just a placebo? Click to expand

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Boat Swivels

The connection between a chain/rope and an anchor should be strong and reliable. It is a matter of safe sailing and docking, so it should never be underestimated. Today, there is a number of ways to get the job done. Some boaters prefer to use shackles, while others go with swivels. All of them are typically made from stainless steel or galvanized steel. They are strong enough to withstand considerable loads and can be used for a number of applications including rigging, towing, and rigging. What makes swivels increasingly popular is that they allow an anchor to rotate and therefore preventing chain/rope twisting.

Some people believe that these units should be installed somewhere on a chain/rope instead of being attached directly to the shack of an anchor. This is because they are not designed for lateral loads. Be that as it may, there is no denying the advantages they offer boaters. They come in several types and styles. To wit, all rotating components are hidden from view in box swivels and open in cup ones. Many boaters often attach the former directly to the shack of an anchor. The latter are typically used for moorings. The ball-and-socket models are a hybrid of the two. When it comes to available styles, you can choose from jaw and jaw, eye and eye, and eye and jaw variants.

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• Guided tour

River Cruise on Luxurious Radisson Boat

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Equipped with ice-breaking technology, these huge fancy yachts are the only river cruisers running all year around. The round trip journey takes two and a half hours and floats past all the big sights like the White House, Novodevichy monastery and the Kremlin. There’s a large open air observation deck up top, while the main body of the ship houses a restaurant with a dance floor for a romantic post dinner dance. For a particularly romantic experience take one of the evening boats and admire the bright lights of the city skyline at night.

The most relaxing and picturesque tour that Moscow can offer: a great way to see the city center and its main attractions. This is a perfect alternative to exploring the city by car, if you only have time to do sightseeing during weekday rush hours.

Your English-speaking guide is eager to share every bit of their knowledge about the surrounding landscape, the architecture and historical details.

We conduct Moscow river tour on Radisson Flotilla boats all year around!  It’s warm inside during winter months, while there’s air conditioning during hot summer days. You may also treat yourself to drinks, lunch or dinner on board (drinks and food are not included in tour price).

The cost of an excursion with a personal guide for 1 person

Quay at Radisson Collection Hotel

Government Headquarters ("the White House")

Kievsky Railway Central

Novodevichy Convent

Luzhniki Stadium

Academy of Sciences

Monument to Peter I

Cathedral of Christ the Saviour

Moscow Kremlin

St.Basil's Cathedral

Novospassky Monastery

U-turn and back to Quay at Radisson Royal Hotel

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Who's going.

• Excursion River Cruise on Luxurious Radisson Boat
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See photo of the meeting point

Cruising the Moskva River: A short guide to boat trips in Russia’s capital

There’s hardly a better way to absorb Moscow’s atmosphere than on a ship sailing up and down the Moskva River. While complicated ticketing, loud music and chilling winds might dampen the anticipated fun, this checklist will help you to enjoy the scenic views and not fall into common tourist traps.

How to find the right boat?

There are plenty of boats and selecting the right one might be challenging. The size of the boat should be your main criteria.

Plenty of small boats cruise the Moskva River, and the most vivid one is this yellow Lay’s-branded boat. Everyone who has ever visited Moscow probably has seen it.

This option might leave a passenger disembarking partially deaf as the merciless Russian pop music blasts onboard. A free spirit, however, will find partying on such a vessel to be an unforgettable and authentic experience that’s almost a metaphor for life in modern Russia: too loud, and sometimes too welcoming. Tickets start at $13 (800 rubles) per person.

Bigger boats offer smoother sailing and tend to attract foreign visitors because of their distinct Soviet aura. Indeed, many of the older vessels must have seen better days. They are still afloat, however, and getting aboard is a unique ‘cultural’ experience. Sometimes the crew might offer lunch or dinner to passengers, but this option must be purchased with the ticket. Here is one such  option  offering dinner for $24 (1,490 rubles).

If you want to travel in style, consider Flotilla Radisson. These large, modern vessels are quite posh, with a cozy restaurant and an attentive crew at your service. Even though the selection of wines and food is modest, these vessels are still much better than other boats.

Surprisingly, the luxurious boats are priced rather modestly, and a single ticket goes for $17-$32 (1,100-2,000 rubles); also expect a reasonable restaurant bill on top.

How to buy tickets?

Women holding photos of ships promise huge discounts to “the young and beautiful,” and give personal invitations for river tours. They sound and look nice, but there’s a small catch: their ticket prices are usually more than those purchased online.

“We bought tickets from street hawkers for 900 rubles each, only to later discover that the other passengers bought their tickets twice as cheap!”  wrote  (in Russian) a disappointed Rostislav on a travel company website.

Nevertheless, buying from street hawkers has one considerable advantage: they personally escort you to the vessel so that you don’t waste time looking for the boat on your own.

Prices start at $13 (800 rubles) for one ride, and for an additional $6.5 (400 rubles) you can purchase an unlimited number of tours on the same boat on any given day.

Flotilla Radisson has official ticket offices at Gorky Park and Hotel Ukraine, but they’re often sold out.

Buying online is an option that might save some cash. Websites such as  this   offer considerable discounts for tickets sold online. On a busy Friday night an online purchase might be the only chance to get a ticket on a Flotilla Radisson boat.

This  website  (in Russian) offers multiple options for short river cruises in and around the city center, including offbeat options such as ‘disco cruises’ and ‘children cruises.’ This other  website  sells tickets online, but doesn’t have an English version. The interface is intuitive, however.

Buying tickets online has its bad points, however. The most common is confusing which pier you should go to and missing your river tour.

“I once bought tickets online to save with the discount that the website offered,” said Igor Shvarkin from Moscow. “The pier was initially marked as ‘Park Kultury,’ but when I arrived it wasn’t easy to find my boat because there were too many there. My guests had to walk a considerable distance before I finally found the vessel that accepted my tickets purchased online,” said the man.

There are two main boarding piers in the city center:  Hotel Ukraine  and  Park Kultury . Always take note of your particular berth when buying tickets online.

Where to sit onboard?

Even on a warm day, the headwind might be chilly for passengers on deck. Make sure you have warm clothes, or that the crew has blankets ready upon request.

The glass-encased hold makes the tour much more comfortable, but not at the expense of having an enjoyable experience.

Getting off the boat requires preparation as well. Ideally, you should be able to disembark on any pier along the way. In reality, passengers never know where the boat’s captain will make the next stop. Street hawkers often tell passengers in advance where they’ll be able to disembark. If you buy tickets online then you’ll have to research it yourself.

There’s a chance that the captain won’t make any stops at all and will take you back to where the tour began, which is the case with Flotilla Radisson. The safest option is to automatically expect that you’ll return to the pier where you started.

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THE 10 BEST Moscow Boat Rides & Cruises

Boat rides & cruises in moscow.

• Boat Rentals
• Scuba & Snorkeling
• Fishing Charters & Tours
• Water Sports
• Stand-Up Paddleboarding
• Surfing, Windsurfing & Kitesurfing
• Kayaking & Canoeing
• Waterskiing & Jetskiing
• Parasailing & Paragliding
• River Rafting & Tubing
• Dolphin & Whale Watching
• Speed Boats Tours
• Submarine Tours
• 5.0 of 5 bubbles
• 4.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• 3.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• 2.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• 3rd Transport Ring (TTK)
• District Central (TsAO)
• Garden Ring
• District Northern (SAO)
• Good for Big Groups
• Good for Couples
• Good for a Rainy Day
• Budget-friendly
• Good for Kids
• Hidden Gems
• Honeymoon spot
• Good for Adrenaline Seekers
• Adventurous
• Things to do ranked using Tripadvisor data including reviews, ratings, photos, and popularity.

1. Flotilla Radisson Royal

2. Moscow River Boat Tours

3. Sup-Club

4. Akvanavt Diving Centre

5. Diving Center Crocus City Oceanarium

6. CheapRussia Tours

7. Kite School Kiteclass

8. SUP Center

9. Erwin. Reka

10. Easy Russia Tour Guide

11. Lovely Russia Tours

13. Capital River Boat Tours - Moscow Centre

14. Alfa Centr

15. Diving Club Divers

16. Sup Outdoor

17. MORE MOSCOW

19. Soho Sailing Style

20. Diving Center Crocodile

21. Dive-Project

22. Mosparokhodstvo

24. Kosinskiy Children Marine Club

25. Kayak Moscow

26. DIVECLUB CHE

27. FLOW Moscow

28. Moswake

29. Morskiye Volki

30. S-cruises

What travelers are saying

• CheapRussia Tours
• Easy Russia Tour Guide
• Lovely Russia Tours
• MORE MOSCOW
• Insider Moscow Tours
• Flotilla Radisson Royal
• Moscow River Boat Tours
• Capital River Boat Tours - Moscow Centre
• Diving Center Crocus City Oceanarium

Moscow Boat Tour

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Description

See all the gems of historical and cultural center of the capital in short time and without traffic jams or tiresome walking.

Depending on the itinerary and duration of the Moscow River boat trip, the tour can be 3 or 5 hours.

Highlights of the tour

• St Basil’s Cathedral;
• Stalin skyscraper on Kotelnicheskaya (Tinkers) embankment;
• The Kremlin;
• “House on the Embankment” Stalin skyscraper;
• Monument to Peter I;
• The Central House of Artists;
• Christ the Savior Cathedral;
• Gorky Park;
• Moscow State University;
• Russian Academy of Sciences;
• Luzhniki stadium;
• Novodevichy Monastery;
• Kiev railway station;
• Europe Square;
• Moscow City Hall;
• Government House;
• Expocentre Exhibition Complex;
• and other famous sights.

You will learn about the different epochs of the city from the foundation in 1147 till Soviet times of 20 th  century.

Moscow River

Moskva river has the form of a snake and is the main waterway of Moscow, consisting of a cascade of reservoirs. Within the city, Moskva river is 80 km long, 120 m - 200 m wide and up to 14 m deep. The narrowest part of the river is the Kremlin area in the city center, and the most extensive is around the Luzhniki Stadium in the south. 

Bridges in Moscow

Undoubtedly, bridges and embankments are among the most scenic spots and main attractions of Moscow. Plus, they are so romantic.

• Bolshoy Kamenny Bridge –  Great Stone Bridge –  is the main bridge of Moscow . The first stone bridge was constructed here in the 17th century.
• Patriarshy Bridge  is one of the youngest pedestrian bridges, built in 2004. The bridge connects the iconic Christ the Saviour Cathedral with funky Bersenevskaya embankment, extremely popular place among locals for its trendy art galleries, cafes and panoramic views. Patriarshy Bridge used to be a shooting location for ex-Russian President Dmitry Medvedev's New Year speech to the nation.
• Borodinsky Bridge,  erected in honor of the 100th anniversary of the glorious victory in the Battle of Borodino (which every Russian kid knows about), a fierce legendary battle during the Russo-French war of 1812.
• Bagration Bridge  one of the  pedestrian bridges with most picturesque views of the Moskva River with its numerous upper-level observation platforms. The bridge was erected to celebrate the 850th anniversary of Moscow city in 1997.
• Krymsky Bridge  used to be in Top 5 Europe’s longest bridges some 100 years ago. The bridge got its name after the ancient Krymsky ford which Crimean Tartars used to invade Moscow in the 16 th  century.

Embankments of Moscow

Moscow river boats 37 embankments, the most popular being Kremlevskaya, Sofiyskaya, Pushkinskaya, Vorobyovskaya and Kolomenskaya.

You can get the most spectacular views of the Kremlin from  Kremlevskaya and Sofiyskaya embankments.

• Pushkinkaya embankment  is the most romantic in Moscow. It meanders along Gorky Park and Neskuchnyi garden and is rich for all kinds of entertainment as well as cozy nooks, including Olivkovy beach, the famous Zeleny theater as well as a pier for river cruisers.
• Vorobyevskaya embankment  is part of Sparrow Hills nature reserve. This place opens a beautiful panorama of the river and city from the observation deck and is considered to be the place for taking serious decisions in life.
• Embankment in Kolomenskoye  Museum-Reserve has a special charm due to its peculiar geographical relief. The boat trip around Kolomenskoye would be the most peaceful in your life.
• Taras Shevchenko embankment  is popular among photographers for its modern Moscow City skyscrapers. Highly recommended for your night boat trip.
• Embankments of Moscow are the pride of the capital. A distinctive feature of each of the promenades is its architecture and beautiful views. In addition, almost all the embankments of Moscow have a rich history and a lot of notable buildings.

Different epochs

Taking a walk along the Moskva River by boat, you will witness the architecture of Moscow from different eras and styles. Archaeological studies indicate that already in the XI century there stood a fortified settlement on Borovitsky hill, which is now called the Kremlin. Little fortress could not accommodate all the residents of the rapidly growing city, and the Grand Duke ordered the construction of a new Kremlin, larger than the former.

Boat trip around Kolomenskoe Park

Moscow river boat trip starts from the pier Klenovy (Maple) Boulevard and provides reat views of Nicholas Perervinsky monastery.

Nicholas Perervinsky monastery was founded at the time of the Battle of Kulikov (1380). The monastery, got its name from the surrounding area – “Pererva”, which can be translated like “tear off” and because of the location –  here it abruptly changed its course, turning to Kolomna, standing on the opposite bank.

Nowadays Kolomenskoye is State Art, Historical, Architectural and Natural Landscape Museum-Reserve, which doors are open to everyone who wants to get in touch with the ancient history of Russia.

Take a break from the big city hustle in the shady parks and gardens of the Kolomenskoe Museum-Reserve. Don’t miss a wonderful Church of the Ascension and Tsar Alexey’s Palace in Kolomenskoye!

Monasteries and temples

• Novospassky Monastery
• Founded in the 13th century on the site where now is located the Danilovsky monastery. After a few decades, in 1330, Ivan Kalita moved the monastery onto the Borovitskii hill of the Kremlin. However, in the 15th century, Spassky Monastery again moved, this time to a more spacious place on Krasnoholmskaya waterfront.
• Church of St. Nicholas in Zayaitskom
• Erected in the middle of the XVIII century in baroque style. The building survived after the 1812 fire, but the utensils were destoyed. Parishioners collected donations and restored the temple on their own. In Soviet times, it was closed and re-opened only in 1992.
• Cathedral of Christ the Savior
• The church was originally erected in honor of the victory over Napoleon and was being under construction for long 44 years. Notoriously demolished in 1937 to be a giant swimming pool under open sky. The current building was constructed in 1990s. It is the tallest and one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world.
• The temple was built in 1679-82, during the reign of Tsar Fedor Alekseevich, in late Muscovite Baroque style and can be characterized as bonfire temple. Each gable is a symbol of a heavenly fire.
• Novodevichy Convent
• The most famous concent and monastery in Moscow, presumably founded in 1524. Novodevichy’s status has always been high among other monasteries, it was in this monastery where the women of the royal blood, the wives of Tsars and local rulers of Moscow were kept in prison as nuns.
• St. Andrew’s church  (male acts as Compound Patriarch of Moscow)
• St. Andrew’s church stands right on the slopes of the Sparrow Hills, on the way down to the Moskva River, on the territory of the Nature Reserve “Sparrow Hills”. The monastery is small in size but is very cozy. It’s situated in a quiet courtyard surrounded by temples, fruit trees and flowers.

What you get:

• + A friend in Moscow.
• + Private & customized Moscow river cruise.
• + An exciting pastime, not just boring history lessons.
• + An authentic experience of local life.
• + Flexibility: changes can be made at any time to suit individual preferences.
• + Amazing deals for breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the very best cafes & restaurants. Discounts on weekdays (Mon-Fri).
• + A photo session amongst spectacular Moscow scenery that can be treasured for a lifetime.
• + Good value for souvenirs, taxis, and hotels.
• + Expert advice on what to do, where to go, and how to make the most of your time in Moscow.

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