refrigerator for a yacht

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Choosing The Right Marine Refrigerator For Your Boat

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There's no doubt that a way to keep things cold aboard makes your boating life more pleasant. Here's what you need to know.

Having some form of refrigeration aboard your boat is a godsend. It keeps perishables fresh, prevents milk from going sour, and, should you also have the luxury of a good freezer, can store ice cream for delicious relief on hot days.

If you spend a lot of time at the dock where shore power is readily available, or if you have an onboard generator that you use frequently, your best choice may be a 110v AC refrigeration unit. It's relatively inexpensive, dependable, easy to install, and should give you years of trouble-free service. Most boaters don't live at the dock, however. If you spend time cruising and anchoring out, a better option may be to use either a 12v DC unit or an engine-driven refrigeration system.

Here's what you need to know if you're considering adding or replacing a marine refrigerator aboard your boat.

What Is Marine Refrigeration?

Before getting into exactly what refrigeration is, it's important to understand what it is not. It is a common misunderstanding that refrigeration creates cold, but this is not the case. Rather, refrigeration is the transfer of heat from one area to another. Basically, all refrigerators work on the same principle: A gas is compressed and allowed to expand inside an evaporator (the plate that gets cold inside the refrigerator). As the gas expands it absorbs heat which is then dissipated on the outside of the refrigerator, either to air or sometimes through a seawater heat exchanger. The expanded gas then passes back through the compressor and the cycle repeats. Although there are some exceptions, which we'll cover in a moment, most refrigeration systems consist of six principle components: compressor, condenser, expansion valve, evaporator, refrigerant, and thermostat.

Types Of Marine Refrigeration Units

There are three main types of marine refrigeration units: 1. Self-contained units (all-in-one or split systems), 2. thermoelectric, and 3. holding plate systems. Each type has positives and negatives depending on your boat, where you boat, and your marine refrigeration needs.

Self-contained marine refrigeration units. The easiest type of marine refrigeration unit to install is a self-contained unit that looks very similar to one you may have in your home. All the components are typically built into the case with the compressor sitting on a metal tray outside and below the insulated cabinet.

Other self-contained marine refrigeration units are a 12-volt DC split system with the compressor and other components sometimes a fairly considerable distance from the insulated box, which only contains the evaporator plate. Many of these systems are available for DIY installation, with converting an icebox to proper refrigeration a popular upgrade.

The simple installation of only two major components — compressor and evaporator — make these units very popular, and they have greatly improved in recent years. The compressor cycles on and off as the box warms and cools. The amount of time it runs depends on the unit, whether it is raw-water or air cooled, and the amount and type of insulation encasing the cold compartment. While these units draw relatively little current, the total amperage draw over a 24-hour period can be more than the boat's electrical system can handle. A close evaluation of your boat's battery size and recharge capability is in order when installing a 12v DC refrigeration system.

Thermoelectric systems. Thermoelectric refrigeration is the exception to the rule and uses no refrigerant. It is also 12v DC powered but uses what is known as the Peltier effect and has no moving parts except a heat-dissipating fan. These quiet units can last a lifetime, and installation is simple, but they're not for every boat. They're far less efficient than other types, requiring more amps to cool a box. They'll cool the box to 40 to 50 degrees below ambient temperature, which is inadequate for the tropics and other hot weather areas, and possibly not worth the power drain.

Holding plate systems. Engine-driven systems with holding plates are the most powerful system for those wanting deep freezes and lots of ice. The compressor typically runs only once or twice a day for short periods, assuming adequate insulation in the box. However, the initial cost is far more than the cost of a 12v DC unit and it is more complicated, so there's a greater potential for problems. If you consider an engine-driven compressor, factor in the cost of labor of mounting the compressor on the engine itself rather than on a nearby stringer. This allows the compressor to vibrate and move with the engine, resulting in less wear and tear on bearings. Also consider that you will not want the compressor to block access to other components. Usually this type of unit is installed by qualified professionals while other types of 12-volt units are easier to install by a "do-it-yourselfer." Some units have two refrigerant channels in the holding plates with the option of separate AC or DC run compressors for use when plugged in to the dock.

Look for marine-grade construction materials. Most holding plates are made of electropolished or powder-coated stainless steel which is corrosion-resistant and attractive. Water-cooled condensers exposed to seawater should be made of a noncorrosive material such as cupronickel. Marine-grade materials add to the initial cost of the unit, but if you're going to make this kind of investment, buy a dependable unit that will last. Check the manufacturer's warranty — longer is better.

Powering A Refrigerator

There are basically three options when it comes to powering refrigeration: 1. AC units that are powered either from a shore power connection or generator, 2. DC units that run from a boat's battery bank, and 3. engine-driven units that have a compressor powered by a belt running from the engine.

Most 12v DC units come with an air-cooled condenser, although a water-cooled condenser, often an upgrade, is preferable, especially in warmer climates. Water cooling is more efficient, so you get greater cooling capacity with a smaller unit, and they can be installed almost anywhere. Air-cooled condensers must be mounted where they can be ventilated to dissipate the high heat removed from the ice box. For 12vDC running at dockside, simply plug in your battery charger and replace the battery power you're using. Away from the dock, your primary consideration is how often and how long you must run your engine to have ice and cold food. Having a dedicated battery bank for your refrigeration unit is a good idea, but remember that you still have to run your engine, generator, or have a wind generator or solar panel to recharge the battery. You can increase your options with an AC/DC refrigerator or icemaker. The dual-voltage units switch from AC to DC automatically when the AC power source is shut off.

Converting An Icebox

If you plan to convert your existing ice box to a refrigerator and/or freezer using a conversion kit, pay special attention to the box's insulation. Heat loss through leakage can be cut in half by increasing the insulation from 2 to 6 inches. Most refrigeration manufacturers will be happy to provide you with good information for properly insulating and/or building an ice box for use with their units.

Portable units can be a popular alternative for some boats that do not have space for a permanently installed refrigerator. They're a smaller, lighter, and a convenient alternative to hauling that heavy, bulky cooler of ice on every outing. But, typically, they don’t cool as well as a permanently installed unit.

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Best Marine Refrigerators

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

May 4, 2023

‍ ‍ ‍ Key Takeaways

• Most marine refrigerators have reliable energy efficiency and great cooling ability
• Avoid brands that have bad marine refrigerator reviews and poor customer service
• Many brands offer options for a power source and are compatible with a solar panel
• Take measurements of your desired space for a fridge and get one that is space saving
• Some boaters like a silent operation if it is near where they sleep

‍ Long boating trips are best when you can save food with a boat refrigerator. So who makes the best marine refrigerator?

The best marine refrigerators are the Costway Compact Fridge, Alpicool C20, and ICECO VL60. Marine refrigerator brands make various sizes, with different prices, and intended use to compliment your boat. Depending on your intended use will matter to the efficiency of the boat fridge.

In my experience, a boat fridge saves you money with storing groceries and keeping drinks cold on a hot day. If you plan on spending more than a day on a boat then you should try to find the best marine refrigerator for you.

Table of contents

‍ ‍ ‍ The Top 11 Best Marine Refrigerators

The most efficient marine refrigeration system is indispensable to boating enthusiasts who consider life on water their mantra. Marine fridges can elevate the experience of seafarers and dock dwellers alike while also maintaining the palatability of consumables regardless of the voyage's duration.

Optimal marine refrigerators, such as those outlined below, guarantee the sustenance of provisions during extended expeditions. With portable refrigerators or ones you install for boating, your galley is no longer confined to the shore.

Costway Compact Car Freezer

This cost-effective fridge packs a punch and is perfect for extended camping or fishing expeditions with impressive cooling abilities and ample storage capacity even in extreme heat. It can function as a fridge or freezer and operates efficiently with portable solar panels.

The roomy interior can accommodate beverages and fresh ingredients. Some users reported that the AC adapter’s lifespan is a concern and occasional temperature problems have been reported.

• Lower cost compared to other marine refrigerators
• Solid amount of space inside
• Energy efficient
• AC adapter could be better
• Temperature settings can move off of desired number

​​Alpicool C20

The Alpicool marine refrigerator boasts a lot of positives. It offers power-saving with its ECO mode and uses roughly 240 watts over the course of an entire day.

After disconnecting from a power source you can still have it powered through a battery and even use solar if you have that setup. It is a little on the small side but perfect for just one or two people wanting to keep their food cold.

• Does not use a lot of power throughout the day
• Lightweight and quiet
• Great job at providing cold air
• Not as large as other marine fridges
• Some may not want a portable refrigerator

A handful of user reviews have stated that this marine refrigerator is something that they would consider tough and made out of marine grade materials. This is a great option for chilled food items on both land and sea no matter the ambient temperature.

It can withstand the elements but do not leave it out for long periods of time in direct weather ailments. If you are looking for the best marine refrigerator this should be on your list if you are needing more holland capacity.

• Plenty of storage to hold cold food
• No problems keeping cold air and can run off of various power sources
• Quality materials making it very durable
• Fan might be loud for some
• More expensive compared to smaller models

Black + Decker Compact Refrigerator

This top brand mini fridge offers pleasant surprises in its compact form. User reviews noted that it kept food and drinks cool throughout a week-long fishing trip while even accommodating extra bottles with smart use of space.

It runs silently and has long-lasting durability. This makes it worth its 70-watt power usage for consistent cooling and ample capacity.

• Reliable cooling from reputable brand
• Proven to last years
• Has a freezer and is quiet
• Eats more power compared to other competing marine refrigerators
• Some users reported the freezer is too small

Ausranvik 63 Quart Portable Marine Refrigerator

Ausravik brings a quality marine refrigerator to the table with its solid cooling capabilities and slightly less in price compared to other brands. It can be used with a variety of power sources to get the job done.

It also has a great feature that will not slam your fingers down with the lid open. This is perfect for families or if you prefer to save your own fingers. You can also find this in various sizes that can meet your cold air and food capacity goals.

• Quick cooling and has low power consumption
• Good capacity depending on size purchased
• Great idea for the anti-pinch feature
• Temperature readings can be off sometimes
• Materials might not hold up in rough conditions

ENGEL Portable Marine Refrigerator

Engel has a history of making quality ice chests and this is right on par with the other quality items they have made. As a portable marine refrigerator this is an excellent choice.

It is well-designed and sturdy enough to handle tough conditions you might experience on the water. It also performs well as it is energy efficient and a not noisy at all. The only drawback seems to be the latches and they might have to be replaced after years of heavy use.

• Quality brand that was able to make another great product
• Silent and energy efficient
• Users have held onto this for over five years or longer
• Latches might have to be replaced after a few years

Whynter Portable Refrigerator

This marine fridge is perfect for traveling and cruising for long periods at a time. Its low power draw, versatility, and cooling capability make it a reliable choice.

It can run on both 110V AC and 12/24V DC power sources without needing to switch wires. It can quickly cool food items to -10 degrees in an hour in a 90-degree ambient temperature. Its robust construction and quiet operation are also notable.

• Great value for the price
• Quiet and can run off multiple power sources
• Quickly cools to desired settings
• A bit heavy when loaded down
• Temperature settings can be off after years of use

VBENLEM Portable Refrigerator

This portable fridge holds more than plenty due to its dual zone design and also saves energy. The electronic temperature control allows you to easily set the desired temperature.

The fridge even has an app for you to control or check on settings. It is durable and comes with an adapter to plug into various outlets for power.

• Plenty of storage
• An app that you control and easy to operate digital display
• Cools fast and is energy efficient
• Draws power even when turned off
• App may be confusing at times

Dometic Waeco Coolmatic

This adaptable and energy-efficient fridge/freezer outshines some of its weaknesses. It perfectly fits boats that have limited space and it seamlessly shifts between functions while saving power at only 48 watts.

The interior space is disappointing but it makes up for it if you are able to maneuver items in a certain way. The power cord is too short and requires an extension if needing to make it work in a given spot.

• Can use as a freezer
• Great cooling capacity
• Can fit on smaller vessels
• Small interior
• Power cord is short and requires extension

EdgeStar Convertible Refrigerator

EdgeStar’s convertible marine refrigerator is compact, durable, and perfect for cooling and freezing needs. With quick cooling abilities that will not drain your boat’s power it is a great option for short trips.

It also could be a convenient backup freezer for fresh produce since it features insulation that rivals traditional fridges. The locking feature and stainless steel finish demonstrate the care put into its design. The compressor did take up a bit more space than desired.

• Great cooling capabilities
• Solid locking feature
• Better if it had more storage space

Norcold 751

This Norcold marine fridge impresses with its sturdy build and generous capacity. Despite a slightly high power draw the cooling performance is superb after fitting an auxiliary fan.

The modern and minimalistic style fits well with most boat cabin styles. It can easily fit in a center console and perfect on a three-day fishing trip.

• Performs well to cool
• Great amount if interior space
• Modern style fridge
• Handles will likely break after a period of time

How to Find the Best Marine Refrigerators

Finding a marine fridge for you will take some time and patience. There are a plethora of options to consider and you will need to understand the intended use for it.

Most metal or stainless steel products indicate a refrigerator's durability. Some major brands offer a various warranties that help make it less of a concern. Look for marine refrigerators that are both stylish and long-lasting.

Type of Power and Use

Numerous 12V refrigerators can run on house batteries or switch between AC/DC. Power consumption varies based on insulation and compressor cycling.

In long-distance cruising you should aim for efficient systems. A propane marine refrigerator will have a fire/explosion risks and pilot lights must be monitored.

Amount of Space

Check the dimensions of potential ice chests, especially if space is limited. Mini marine fridges are usually compact enough but sailboat refrigeration systems may take up a lot of room.

Ensure your sailboat refrigerator fits the designated space in your cabin by measuring it precisely. You should also consider the additional space that a marine drawer fridge will require when opened.

Intended Use

For tougher environments you should aim for a stronger refrigerator. Determine the required capacity by considering if you will be cooking frequently or only storing drinks.

A regular cooler may be sufficient for drinks and then you can utilize the marine fridge. A marine refrigeration kit can enhance performance and its power consumption.

Ease of Transportation

If marine fridges are heavy then they will be a chore to carry often. Frequent use of a lightweight icebox by travelers and boaters makes it easier to carry along on trips.

How Much Sound

Compressor refrigerators are generally louder than absorption-based ones. Most consumers prefer brands that prioritize low running noise despite using compressors. This becomes especially important if the fridge will be running overnight near where you are sleeping.

Budget always plays a role in everything you do. Most boaters want to be able to get a good deal on a marine fridge without breaking the bank.

If you are able to calculate your finances then you should be able to judge your budget range. Keep in mind that the most expensive options are not always the best and that you should do enough research to best fit your needs.

Benefits to Having a Boat Refrigerator

A marine refrigerator provides the same benefits as a home fridge while out at sea and allows for fresh meals. Investing in a heavy-duty refrigerator can provide long-term health benefits and eliminate the need for constantly adding ice.

Although marine fridges have a high price tag and consume a lot of power they offer uninterrupted cooling and eliminate the need for constant re-icing like with a cooler. A standard cooler is more cost-effective in the long run since marine refrigerators require a continuous power supply.

Having one for a fishing trip is a great idea if you are wanting to harvest the fish soon after catching. You would be able to store them after cleaning in your fridge for safe keeping.

How to Take Care of Your Marine Sailboat Refrigerator

Many of these fridges are self-contained and small but it is wise to seek expert assistance to maintain the refrigerant and compressor. You should also have them checked annually and not left out in the elements if possible.

While you are using them you should inspect the seals for any damage and defrost units with a freezer. This allows you to maintain proper humidity levels and cooling capabilities without having your fridge use too much energy.

You should also look for moisture that could cause unwanted mold, bacteria, and pests. The most common places for mold to grow would be where the door closes. This could mean you have an issues with the seal but that would be an easy fix.

Various Types of Marine Refrigerators

There are a handful of marine refrigerators on the market that cater to specific uses. It is important to know what type you are interested in so that you do not purchase one needing special attention upon setting up.

Portable Units

It is easy to understand why portable refrigerators are so popular among vessels that are mobile. They are easy to install, operate right out of the box, and come with their own batteries or compatible with yours.

They are cheaper and more flexible than conventional marine refrigeration options. Some use isotherm marine refrigeration which is known for boosting cooling efficiency and can even be converted from a standard refrigerator using a boat fridge kit.

Cold and Holding Plates

Marine cold plate refrigeration provides an efficient cooling without needing constant operation. Choosing between eutectic and an evaporator plate involves trade offs such as an eutectic plates cool slowly but keep temperature longer and  evaporator plates cool fast but lose cold quickly.

Choosing holding plate systems to cool your engine efficiently and can also retain temperatures for hours with proper insulation. These offer great ice retention but note their higher cost and power consumption compared to other sailboat refrigeration options.

Thermoelectric and Propane

Thermoelectric systems draw excessive power for modest cooling, struggle with temperature control, and are restricted to certain boat types. They boast longevity even though they are not the best in the other categories.

They typically can last for decades and even the entire lifespan of a vessel. Keep in mind of their enormous amount of power use due to their unconventional refrigerant-free approach.

Propane is considered risky by some boaters but it is still a viable option for many. Proper safety measures ensure reliability as long as you are keeping an eye on things.

Some marine absorption fridges will utilize a cutting-edge technology that eliminates compressors and fans for noiseless operation. An absorption fridge will harness low-grade heat to power most of the cooling and provide a great alternative for energy hogging fridges.

Are Marine Refrigerators Easy to Install?

Installing a self-contained drop-in refrigerator is easy since the compressor is included. Most featured products either have no separate compressor or none at all. Assembly of Isotherm fridges is best done by a professional unless you are confident in tackling that.

These types of refrigerators are commonly portable and ready to use once plugged in without any additional setup required. It is important to consider a variety of factors such as power source, size, location, and loading style when placing built-in fridges.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How to upgrade your boat fridge

• Duncan Kent
• August 4, 2022

A fridge is considered essential for a cruising yacht these days, but what is the most efficient system to install? Duncan Kent investigates the options

An efficient boat fridge is essential for those cruising long term. Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

Keeping your food fresh when sailing means having a decent boat fridge.

An old, leaky, inefficient one will increase the risk of your food going off and suck the life out of your batteries.

Insulation is key to an efficient boat fridge

Problems with boat fridges are almost always caused by the lack of decent insulation.

Early models often had thin (usually no more than 12mm) layers of cheap, low-density porous foam all around the cool box, topped off by a poorly fitting, often uninsulated lid with no seals.

It’s no good fitting the latest high-efficiency compressor cooling system to the old cool box if your hard-earned cold air leaks out through the seams or is quickly conducted away by saturated polystyrene foam insulation.

Eutectic holding plates ‘bank’ cold by freezing a liquid chemical inside it when the boat’s engine is running

When upgrading your boat fridge, rule number one is ‘Don’t skimp on foam thickness’.

When planning the task carry out your calculations allowing for at least 50mm-thick sidewall insulation, 75mm on the bottom and 25mm in the lid.

Add 50%  again to these dimensions for a freezer compartment or if you’re intending to spend long periods in hot climates.

Insulation that is too thin can double the compressor operating time, and consequently the power consumption, of the boat fridge.

The type of foam you use is also very important.

It needs to be high-density, polyisocyanurate closed-cell foam, which is highly energy efficient and waterproof, and available from most builder’s merchants in flat sheets (Cellotex, Kingspan or similar).

The condition and design of all door seals is critical for performance of all types of boat fridge

Cheap, open-cell foam sheets such as polystyrene will quickly absorb water making them useless as an insulator, along with most DIY spray foams, which are rarely up to the job.

Ideally, you would buy, or already have, an existing polyethylene inner liner, to which you can glue the foam onto the outside.

Alternatively, you can fabricate a box from the foam sheets, seal the seams with foil tape, and then either coat the inside with GRP , finishing with a smooth gelcoat or use prefabricated glass-fibre wall panels cut to size then glued and sealed at the joins.

Although proprietary insulated boxes are widely available and even stocked by some chandlers, many do not meet the recommended insulation standards as they are primarily intended for vehicle use where power consumption is not necessarily an issue.

You could, however, buy one of these and simply add to or replace the insulation.

It’s important to realise that the insulation needs to be completely sealed on the outside by an air and watertight outer covering otherwise a great deal of condensation will be created – possibly waterlogging the foam and thereby destroying its insulation properties.

Cooling systems

Your choice of cooling system will make the difference between ‘vaguely cool’ and ‘properly cold’ storage, so a clear understanding of which system offers what is vital.

Cheap 12V car cool boxes nearly always use fan-assisted thermo-electric (Peltier-effect) cooling systems, which work by blowing air over a solid-state thermocouple.

The evaporator plate is the cooling part of the compressor-type refrigeration system and located in the fridge itself

While they might be fine for those who have an endless supply of power, they are not ideal for sailing yachts as they draw a constant current, usually between 6-10A.

They’re also seldom available above 35L capacity and rarely keep their contents sufficiently cool in ambient temperatures above 20ºC.

If you only go weekending or are happy to throw in a frozen water bottle or block of ice, and you kick start things by loading food straight from your home fridge, a thermo-electric cool box might suffice, but it will consume an inordinate amount of battery power on warm summer days.

For a proper boat fridge or freezer you will need a compressor-driven cooling unit in which an inert gas is cycled through an evaporator plate inside the fridge box, collecting heat on the way.

The compressor then pumps the gas to a condenser outside the fridge (the equivalent of a car radiator), which disperses the heat either by air or water cooling, and re-liquefies the gas before returning it to the evaporator.

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For small- to medium-sized boats, the condensers are more commonly air-cooled, so it is important to ventilate the area around the cooler adequately as they can lose up to 50% of their efficiency when installed into a small, unvented locker.

Furthermore, the heat build-up in the boat can be unbearable in a hot climate, so boat owners intending to cruise the tropics would be well advised to ventilate the area to the outside or, better still, install a water-cooled condenser on the hull.

Dissipation of heat through water is some 20 times more effective than in air.

Some fridge cooling units utilise a heat exchanger through which cold sea water is circulated.

Fan assisted air-cooled condenser can heat up the air in your boat more than you might think

Although more efficient, the additional pump increases both the power consumption and the chances of something going wrong.

Units that circulate the coolant itself through a hull heat exchanger are more efficient and economical.

Modern 12V fridge compressors draw around 3.5A-4.5A while running.

However, this is usually for only 15-20 minutes every hour in a well-insulated fridge as the thermostat turns the pump on and off as required.

Thus, a 48W/12V fridge is likely to consume a very reasonable 24-32Ah over a 24-hour period with an ambient temperature below 20ºC.

A drawer fridge is a handy compromise that combines some of the convenience of a front-opener with some of the efficiency of a top-opener. Credit: Graham Snook

A common alternative, particularly in larger yachts and those that run their engines often, is to fit a device that senses the alternator charge when the engine is running and switches a variable speed electric compressor to high speed to bring the marine fridge temperature down quickly.

The compressor then drops back to low speed when the engine is shut down to save power.

The addition of a ‘eutectic’ holdover plate (a metal ‘box’ filled with a fluid that freezes at a temperature above that of water) will allow it to remain cool for long periods in between engine cycles.

Cooling elements running through a matrix within the plate freeze the fluid solid, turning it into a ‘cold reservoir’.

This is especially useful at night when the noise from an electric compressor can be disturbing.

Finally, the greater the surface area of the evaporator plate, the more heat it will absorb and the quicker it will cool the box down so, if building your own, choose the largest size you can sensibly fit into your box.

Saving power

Some cooling units incorporate a device that electronically monitors the battery voltage and controls the fridge accordingly.

When the engine is running the device senses the extra power available and turns the compressor to full speed.

When the engine is off it reduces power. This method works well when combined with a holding plate.

Top-opening, rather than front-opening boat fridges, are more energy efficient as the cold air tends to ‘fall out’ of the latter when opened.

Air-cooled condenser releases warm air into accommodation areas and fan may be noisy. Credit: Maxine Heath

As cold air sinks, it mostly remains inside the box with the former.

The bottom is always the coldest area where items susceptible to warming should be stored.

This is why front opening freezers tend to have drawers – they reduce but do not eliminate this ‘fall out’ of cold air every time the door is opened.

Many fridges will have a drain at the bottom, which is necessary for keeping water out.

Water-cooled condenser is a quieter, cooler and more expensive arrangement. Credit: Maxine Heath

It shouldn’t be permanently open, though, or it will allow the cold air to leak out.

It should either have a U-bend in the drainpipe or include a tap or pump.

Try to keep your boat fridge as full as possible but allow enough air space for the cold air to circulate.

Remove all cardboard packaging from food as this retains heat and often becomes a soggy mess that blocks the drain.

Finally, if weekending, load your boat’s fridge with food and drink that is already cool if possible and plan your meals and drinks carefully, opening the lid as few times as possible.

Saving money on boat fridges

Some may be tempted to install a domestic fridge instead of an expensive marine model.

However, they’re really not designed to (and may well not) operate when heeled over.

Besides, many of the steel screws, nuts, bolts and fittings will rust in no time.

Caravan and camper fridges look to be better value and often run on AC, DC and/or bottled gas.

A standard top-opening fridge on a modern production cruiser. The lid shuts flat to create additional workspace. Credit: Graham Snook

But once again these won’t work on an incline and using gas only when moored on the level would still require a proper flue arrangement, which is hard to waterproof from the sea.

Portable cool boxes and fridges are very popular for camping.

These can be thermo-electric or compressor types and often come with a cigar lighter-type lead so that they can be connected to a vehicle’s auxiliary power socket.

While this might be fine for the occasional weekend when initially filled with cold provisions, the non-compressor types will use a huge amount of power over 2-3 days.

Installation tips

How to convert an existing galley locker to a top-and front-opening fridge

• Location: Choose a location low in the boat, ideally below the waterline. The box ideally should not be installed too close to the engine compartment or boat cooker .
• Insulation: Insulation should be waterproof and water tight inside and out and at least 50mm thick. If you install an air-cooled fridge in a locker, it should be ventilated to enable a natural flow of air both in (lower) and out (higher). Alternatively, installing a small computer fan to assist the flow of air from the surrounding locker will increase efficiency, especially when cruising in hot climates.
• Lining: A watertight GRP interior keeps the insulation dry.
• Drawers: Drawers help front- opening fridges retain cold air.

Enjoyed reading How to upgrade your boat fridge?

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A Guide to Yacht Refrigeration and Ice Makers

• by yachtman
• August 31, 2023 August 26, 2023

Yacht refrigeration and ice makers are essential for a great sailing experience. They cool air, and make ice cubes or crushed ice for chilled drinks. Plus, they keep perishables fresh.

Pro Tip: maintain them regularly. Have a pro technician for routine checks and cleaning. Avoid unexpected breakdowns when out at sea.

Overview of Yacht Refrigeration and Ice Makers

Yacht refrigeration and ice makers are a must-have for any yacht owner looking for comfort and luxury! Here’s an overview of these key amenities.

Plus, yacht refrigeration systems are designed to operate quietly. And advanced technology makes them energy-efficient and temperature-controlled.

Fun fact: The global ice machine market is growing rapidly due to the increasing demand from industries like hospitality and healthcare.

These details show that refrigeration and quality ice are essential elements on a yacht.

Importance of Yacht Refrigeration and Ice Makers

Yacht refrigeration and ice makers are vital for providing comfort and convenience. They store perishable food, drinks, and help keep seafood fresh.

Reliable refrigeration systems are a must – they prevent spoilage and bacterial growth, even with fluctuating temperatures.

Ice makers offer a steady supply of ice for chilling drinks or preserving seafood. Enjoy a cold cocktail with perfect ice while taking in views of the open sea!

To get the most from yacht refrigeration and ice makers, maintenance is key. Clean coils, check seals, and defrost when needed. Invest in energy-efficient models for reduced environmental impact and lower power consumption.

It’s smart to have spare parts onboard too. That way, you’re prepared for repairs or breakdowns.

Factors to Consider When Choosing Yacht Refrigeration and Ice Makers

Factors to Consider When Choosing Refrigeration and Ice Makers for Your Yacht:

To make an informed decision while selecting the right refrigeration and ice makers for your yacht, consider the following factors:

• Size and Capacity: Determine the appropriate size and capacity of the refrigeration and ice makers based on the available space on your yacht and your specific needs. Consider the volume of food and drinks you intend to store, as well as the amount of ice you require.
• Energy Efficiency: Opt for energy-efficient refrigeration and ice makers to minimize power consumption and extend battery life on your yacht. Look for models with high energy star ratings and advanced insulation features for optimal efficiency.
• Cooling System: Choose between built-in and portable refrigeration units based on your yacht’s layout and your flexibility needs. Built-in systems offer a seamless integration with the yacht’s design, while portable units allow for easy repositioning.
• Cooling Performance: Ensure that the refrigeration and ice makers have the ability to maintain consistent and reliable cooling performance, even in harsh marine environments. Look for units with robust compressors and reliable temperature control systems.
• Durability and Reliability: Yachts are subjected to demanding conditions, so prioritize refrigeration and ice makers that are built to withstand the marine environment. Look for units made from corrosion-resistant materials and backed by reputable manufacturers.
• Ease of Use and Maintenance: Consider the user-friendly features and ease of maintenance of the refrigeration and ice makers. Look for units with intuitive controls, removable shelves and compartments for easy cleaning, and accessible service parts.

In addition to the aforementioned factors, it is important to collaborate with a trusted marine refrigeration specialist to ensure the proper installation and optimal performance of the chosen refrigeration and ice makers on your yacht.

For a worry-free yachting experience, don’t miss out on considering these crucial factors when selecting the refrigeration and ice makers for your yacht. Make an informed choice to enjoy reliable cooling and ice-making capabilities on board.

Size matters when it comes to yacht refrigeration: go too small and your ice cubes will be a laughable size, go too big and you’ll have enough space to store a whole iceberg.

Size and Capacity

When it comes to yacht refrigeration and ice makers , size and capacity matter. This dictates how much space the equipment will take up on the yacht and how much food and drinks it can hold.

Here’s a breakdown of the different sizes and capacities available:

The size you pick depends on the yacht’s space and your storage needs. Power consumption is another thing to consider, as smaller units usually use less power.

John learned the significance of size and capacity the hard way. On a week-long trip, his compact refrigeration unit couldn’t store enough food and drinks. He and his guests had to go ashore for restocking. This incident taught him to select the right size and capacity for enhanced comfort and convenience on his yacht journeys.

Energy Efficiency

Energy efficiency is a must when selecting yacht refrigeration and ice makers. It means these appliances use energy without wasting it. Here are five points for energy efficiency:

• Look for Energy Star certified products. They consume less power and work well.
• Consider the size and cooling capacity. A smaller, high-efficiency unit may be better than a larger one.
• Check the insulation quality. Good insulation means less energy use and no cold air loss.
• Choose ice makers with modern tech like variable speed compressors or smart sensors.
• Keep up regular maintenance and cleaning. Good ventilation and clean condenser coils help.

Other features like eco-mode or advanced control systems can help save energy. Consider these details when making your decision.

Fact: An inefficient fridge consumes four times more power than modern, energy-efficient models.

Type of Refrigeration System

When selecting a yacht refrigeration and ice maker , there are many factors to consider. One of them is the type of refrigeration system. Here’s an overview:

Air-cooled systems are straightforward to install, but the noise level might be high. Water-cooled models offer great performance, yet require a water source for cooling. Hybrid systems provide a balanced approach, yet need complex setup & maintenance.

Pro Tip: Choose air-cooled refrigeration if you prefer peace & quiet on your yacht trips.

Ice Making Options

When selecting a yacht refrigeration system, one must consider the availability of ice-making options. These can range in size, capacity, and efficiency. Manual ice makers are a simple and budget-friendly choice, yet may not make ice quickly or in large amounts. Automatic ice makers on the other hand remove manual labor but require proper installation and maintenance.

You must also decide between built-in or standalone ice machines. Built-in are integrated into the yacht’s existing refrigeration system, saving space.

When deciding, it is important to assess your needs and preferences – convenience, speed, capacity, or cost-effectiveness. For example, I knew a yacht owner who chose a compact portable ice maker so they could host parties frequently and have a steady supply of beverages without relying on buying commercial ice.

Installation Process of Yacht Refrigeration and Ice Makers

Installing a refrigeration and ice maker system on a yacht requires a careful and precise process. To ensure a successful installation, follow this step-by-step guide:

• Plan and Design: Before beginning the installation, thoroughly assess the yacht’s layout and determine the best location for the refrigeration and ice maker units. Consider factors such as available space, ventilation requirements, and accessibility for maintenance. Create a detailed plan and design to guide the installation process.
• Installation of Units: Start by carefully positioning and securing the refrigeration and ice maker units according to the plan. Ensure proper insulation and sealing to prevent any leaks or moisture buildup. Connect the units to the yacht’s power supply and plumbing system, following all safety guidelines and regulations.
• Testing and Calibration: Once the units are installed, thoroughly test their functionality. Check for any leaks, ensure proper temperature control, and test the ice maker’s production capacity. Fine-tune the settings and perform any necessary calibrations to ensure optimal performance.

In addition to the installation process, it is important to consider some unique details:

• Proper ventilation is crucial to maintain the efficiency of the refrigeration and ice maker units. Ensure sufficient airflow around the units by leaving adequate space around them and installing ventilation fans if necessary.

When considering suggestions for a successful installation:

• Seek professional assistance if you are unsure about any aspect of the installation process. Experienced technicians can provide valuable insights and ensure a safe and efficient installation.
• Regular maintenance and cleaning are essential to prolong the lifespan of the refrigeration and ice maker units. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines and schedules for cleaning, defrosting, and replacing filters to keep the system running smoothly.

By following these guidelines and considering important details, you can install a yacht refrigeration and ice maker system that meets your needs and ensures a comfortable and enjoyable boating experience.

Creating the perfect ambiance for your yacht means having a space so cool, it’s practically Antarctica – but without the penguins and polar bears.

Preparing the Space

• Measure the space for yacht refrigeration and ice makers .
• Record dimensions to ensure proper fit.
• Clear out any obstructions.
• Clean the area of dirt and debris.
• Install ventilation systems for optimal airflow.
• Ensure electrical connections are properly grounded and meet safety regulations.
• Do regular maintenance and cleaning.

By following these steps, you can have an ideal environment. This will enhance performance and make installation smoother. Enjoy cold drinks and fresh ice aboard your yacht!

Choosing the Right Location

For successful yacht refrigeration and ice makers, the perfect spot is essential. Keep these tips in mind:

• Proper ventilation: Opt for an area with enough space around the unit for air circulation.
• Sunlight: Direct exposure to heat can lessen its performance, so locate it in the shade.
• Electrical source: Be close to a socket or power source to avoid long wiring.
• Noise: Put it away from common chill spots or bedrooms in order to muffle sound.
• Maintenance: Make sure the spot is easy to reach for maintenance and repairs.

Plus, bear in mind any unique characteristics of your yacht when picking its place.

Pro Tip: Ask an expert technician for advice on the ideal location for your vessel.

Installing the Refrigeration System

Let’s tackle the steps for refrigeration system installation on your yacht!

• Choose equipment which fits your needs such as size, power consumption, and storage capacity.
• Plan out the layout and location of components like condenser, evaporator, and compressor.
• Time to begin the installation process. Mount condensing unit in a well-ventilated area. Connect refrigerant lines from evaporator to condensing unit. Securely wire all electrical connections.
• Fix all components in their designated places. Check for potential leaks in the refrigerant lines or fittings.
• Don’t forget: professional assistance may be needed if you lack experience or expertise.
• I once met a yacht owner who tried to do it all himself. Sadly, he damaged components and had costly repairs and a delayed sailing plan.
• Expert guidance can prevent trouble and keep the installation smooth.

Installing the Ice Maker

• Choose a good spot for your ice maker. Look at accessibility, air flow, and water/power sources.
• Prepare the area – clear away items and clean it.
• Connect the water supply line. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines and secure all connections.
• Connect the power source – electric outlet or marine battery. Double-check wiring.
• Turn on the water and check for leaks.
• Test the ice maker – run a cycle and check it produces ice.

Also, remember the size of the ice maker. It should fit within the yacht’s layout without causing any issues. Clean and maintain it as per instructions. Descale to prevent mineral buildup. Check for worn-out parts and replace them.

By following this guide and our advice, you can install your yacht’s ice maker easily and keep it running for a long time.

Maintenance and Care Tips

Yacht Refrigeration and Ice Makers are essential components for maintaining proper temperature and preserving food on a yacht. For effective operation and longevity, it is crucial to follow the necessary maintenance and care guidelines. These guidelines will help ensure the smooth functioning of the refrigeration system and ice maker, reducing the risk of breakdowns and maximizing their efficiency.

• Regular Cleaning: Keeping the refrigeration system and ice maker clean is vital for their optimal performance. Regularly remove any accumulated dirt, debris, or residue from the vents, filters, and condenser coils.
• Inspecting Seals and Gaskets: Check the refrigerator door seals and gaskets for any signs of wear or damage. Damaged seals can result in cold air leaks, leading to increased power consumption and reduced cooling efficiency.
• Proper Ventilation: Ensure that the refrigeration system is adequately ventilated to dissipate heat. Blocked or restricted airflow can strain the system and decrease its efficiency.
• Regular Maintenance by Professionals: Schedule regular maintenance visits by qualified technicians to inspect and service the refrigeration system and ice maker. They can identify any potential issues and perform necessary repairs or adjustments.
• Proactive Temperature Monitoring: Regularly monitor the temperature inside the refrigerator and freezer compartments to ensure they are within the recommended range. Adjust settings if necessary to maintain optimal cooling.

In addition, it is important to note that specific maintenance requirements may vary depending on the type and model of the refrigeration system and ice maker installed on the yacht. Always refer to the manufacturer’s guidelines and instructions for detailed maintenance instructions. Adhering to these tips will help prolong the lifespan of the equipment and maintain a reliable and efficient cooling system on board.

One yacht owner, John , experienced the consequences of neglecting maintenance and care for his yacht’s refrigeration system. During a long voyage, the system suddenly failed, resulting in spoiled food and beverages. The unexpected breakdown not only affected the overall enjoyment of the trip but also incurred additional expenses for repairs and replacement. John learned the importance of regular maintenance and the significance of following proper care methods to avoid such incidents in the future.

Cleaning and deodorizing your yacht refrigerator is like a high-stakes game of ‘Guess That Smell’ – just hope you don’t lose.

Regular Cleaning and Deodorizing

For a hygienic and pleasant space, regular cleaning and deodorizing is a must! Here are some tips to help you out:

• Dust surfaces to avoid allergens and dirt.
• Clean floors using the right cleaner for the floor type.
• Vacuum furniture and upholstery to remove dust and pet hair.
• Disinfect doorknobs and light switches .
• Invest in air fresheners or use natural methods like baking soda to get rid of bad smells.

To make cleaning even easier, it’s important to clear out clutter . Also, microfiber cloths are great for picking up dirt without leaving streaks.

Do deep-cleaning sessions regularly to reach hard-to-reach places. Use the suitable cleaning products for each surface and create a schedule to ensure regular cleaning.

By following these few steps, you’ll be able to keep your space clean and promote a healthier lifestyle!

Checking and Replacing Filters

Filters are essential for keeping various devices in good condition. It’s vital to frequently check and replace filters to ensure they’re working properly. Here are some key points:

• Examine filters regularly to spot any signs of wear or blockage.
• Clean or change the filters based on type.
• Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for cleaning or replacing them.
• Be aware of the recommended frequency of filter replacement based on usage and environment.
• Use compatible, high-quality filters for the best filtering and performance.
• Have spare filters ready to avoid delays in replacement.

Also, different devices could have unique filter needs. For instance, air purifiers may need HEPA filters replaced periodically , while water filtration systems may need carbon filters changed regularly . It’s a good idea to refer to the user manual or consult an expert for specific instructions tailored to your device.

To emphasize the importance of checking and replacing filters , I’ll share a story about a friend of mine. He didn’t maintain his HVAC system filter as instructed. Eventually, the clogged air filter caused his system to malfunction. This led to costly repairs, plus discomfort for his family in extreme weather. This serves as a strong reminder of the importance of regularly inspecting and replacing filters.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Having trouble with maintenance and care? We’ve got the solution! Check out some quick fixes for common problems:

• Problem 1: Power outages? Look at the circuit breaker. If needed, call an electrician.
• Problem 2: Water leaking? Inspect pipes for cracks and fix ’em up!
• Problem 3: Slow internet? Restart the router. Or contact your service provider.
• Problem 4: Heating not working? Check thermostat settings. Clean or replace air filters.
• Problem 5: Drains clogged? Use a plunger or drain cleaner to unclog.
• Problem 6: Door hinges squeaking? Put some lubricant on. Or tighten the screws.

Keep an eye out for any strange sounds, smells, or signs of wear. Don’t let these minor glitches go unresolved! Solve them quickly to avoid further damage and expenses. Take charge of maintenance tasks and ensure a comfortable living environment.

Remember: A stitch in time saves nine!

Recommended Yacht Refrigeration and Ice Maker Brands

When selecting the best brands for yacht refrigeration and ice makers, a few stand out. These offer high-quality products that meet yacht owners’ needs and perform well in tough conditions.

We compiled a table with some recommended brands:

Other manufacturers worth considering: Vitrifrigo, Norcold, Engel.

Pro tip: Clean and maintain your equipment for optimal performance and extended lifespan.

Yacht refrigeration and ice makers are must-haves for a successful sailing journey. You’ll need to think about power usage, storage, and noise when you select a fridge. Also, air-cooled or water-cooled systems are two types of refrigeration to consider. As for ice makers, you could go for either a built-in or portable one. Size, production, and ease of use should be taken into account.

For keeping the systems functioning well, regular maintenance is key. Cleaning coils, looking for leaks, and ensuring ventilation are all part of upkeep. Scheduling inspections will make sure the equipment lasts longer and functions properly. Yachting World magazine recommends investing in quality refrigeration for top-notch boating!

Frequently Asked Questions

FAQ 1: What is yacht refrigeration and why is it important?

Yacht refrigeration refers to the cooling and preservation of food and beverages onboard a yacht using specialized refrigeration systems. It is important to keep food fresh and drinks chilled, ensuring the comfort and satisfaction of the yacht’s occupants.

FAQ 2: What types of refrigeration systems are commonly used in yachts?

There are generally two types of refrigeration systems used in yachts: air-cooled and water-cooled systems. Air-cooled systems extract heat from the refrigerated compartment and release it into the surrounding air. Water-cooled systems use the surrounding seawater to remove the heat.

FAQ 3: How do yacht ice makers work?

Yacht ice makers typically work by spraying water onto a cooling plate where it freezes into ice. Once the ice is formed, a harvesting mechanism removes it from the plate and stores it in an insulated container until it is needed.

FAQ 4: Can yacht refrigeration systems and ice makers operate efficiently on battery power?

Yes, many yacht refrigeration systems and ice makers are designed to operate efficiently on battery power. They are often equipped with energy-saving features to minimize power consumption and prolong battery life while maintaining optimal cooling performance.

FAQ 5: What maintenance is required for yacht refrigeration and ice makers?

Regular maintenance is essential for the proper functioning of yacht refrigeration systems and ice makers. This includes cleaning the condenser coils, checking and topping up refrigerant levels, inspecting and replacing worn-out parts, and ensuring proper ventilation for cooling systems.

FAQ 6: Are there any safety considerations when installing or using yacht refrigeration systems and ice makers?

Yes, safety is important when installing and using yacht refrigeration systems and ice makers. It is crucial to follow manufacturer guidelines during installation and avoid overloading electrical circuits. Regular inspections and maintenance should be conducted to identify any potential safety hazards.

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When you are shopping for your galley , do not think that the mini-fridges you see at the big box stores will be adequate. Galley refrigerators require compressors that accept higher ambient temperatures than kitchens in homes and apartments, and different ventilation systems as well. Something else to think about is a strong latch to ensure the door remains closed even in rough seas. Instead, consider Wholesale Marine’s selection of marine refrigerators from Norcold that have been specifically designed to grace any galley. These units make short work of preparing galley meals and some models can also serve double duty and store your bait or catch fresh, too .

Keep Your Catch Cold With Our Boat Refrigerators

For your many voyages, consider Norcold’s 7.0 cubic foot CF Marine Refrigerator . It accommodates food in varied sizes up to a gallon, and also features a compressor that is hermetically sealed to prevent damage from exposure to moisture and humidity. Just out for the afternoon and want to keep your sandwiches fresh? Opt for Norcold’s NRF 60 AC/DC Portable Compressor Refrigerator/Freezer that chills without ice and plugs into any 12-volt outlet. It also serves a dual purpose; use with its AC converter in dorm rooms and offices when the boating season is over. Looking for something more permanent? Norcold’s 3.6 CF Built-In Marine Refrigerator installs in any galley and has been specifically designed for use in marine and mobile applications .

Wholesale Marine carries a full inventory of boat refrigerators for every kind of galley, even for pontoon boats! If you have questions or want to place an order, give us a call at: (877) 388-2628. Our knowledgeable staff will be glad to assist you. We’re here Monday through Friday, from 9:00 AM until 6:00 PM EST and look forward to speaking with you! Remember, we offer same day, flat rate shipping on most items and free shipping for orders over $99! Add our Captain’s Club Rewards program for additional discounts, to our price-match guarantee, and issue-free returns, and you’ll wonder why you ever shopped anywhere else !

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Portable Marine Refrigeration Test

Always wanted a refrigerator or freezer on your cruising sailboat or yacht, but didnt want to install a built-in marine refrigeration system our testers examine four portable units driven by compressor: the engel mt35f, the norcold mrft40, the norcold mrft60 (all built by japanese manufacturer sawafuji electric), and the waeco cf-40 coolmatic..

One of the advantages of a compressor-driven portable refrigerator is that it can also serve as a freezer. And compared to thermo-electric coolers, they require fewer amps to do the job. Cruising boats need to be energy efficient, so amp consumption with a 12-volt power supply was one of the key factors Practical Sailor looked at in this test. As in any marine refrigeration test, insulation is a key factor in efficiency, so our comparison also tried to single out the best insulated units. Ultimately, the linear compressor system used in the Engel and Norcold refrigerator/freezers proved to be more efficient.

There are three solid reasons why compressor-driven, portable refrigerators and portable freezers have displaced and overwhelmed all other competitors in every arena where they are used: They are quiet, efficient, and effective. They’ve also proven to be long-lasting and low-maintenance. The major downside is the high cost. However, if you need the capabilities of one of these units, there essentially is no alternative. Your best bet is to pick a unit that fits your needs and budget. In the April 2007 issue, we covered thermoelectric coolers. This time around,

Practical Sailor takes a look at portable, compressor-driven units that can serve as either a refrigerator or a freezer.

What We Tested

We found four units with at least a 34-quart capacity. From Engel, we received the MT-35F, and from Norcold, the MRFT 40 and MRFT 60. Japanese manufacturer Sawafuji Electric Co. builds all three. Waecos CF-40 Coolmatic rounds out the field.

All of these plug into cigarette lighter outlets, a convenient but trouble-prone connection to have on a boat. Replacing the fridge plug with a marine-grade plug and socket is an option, but we recommend hard-wiring the fridge to the boats 12-volt system. In any case, it is important that the sockets wire size and the socket or connection are rated to carry the current these devices require. They should be sized so that there is no more than a 3 percent voltage drop in the circuit.

Both the Engel MT-35F and the Norcold MRFT 40 lighter plugs have thermal fuses designed to blow at temperatures higher than 160 degrees F or if there is an electrical short. The Waeco and Norcold MRFT 60 have common, fused lighter plugs. Regardless of the plug fuses, we recommend making sure the lighter sockets is also fused or protected with a properly sized circuit breaker.

How We Tested

Tests were conducted simultaneously on all four units indoors, where we regulated the ambient temperature to 76 degrees F using air-conditioning. During initial testing, each unit was set to its coldest temperature level. We wanted to see how fast theyd cool and how cold they would get. It was important to know if these units were really capable of achieving and maintaining freezing temperatures.

For power, we used our robust Astron VS-70M power supply regulated to 12.8 volts DC and the manufacturer-supplied DC cable for each unit. Testers monitored the output voltage using a Sperry DM-4100A digital meter. (We did not test the units using AC power.) DC-amp-draw measurements were taken with a Fluke 336 clamp-on ammeter. We took several measurements over the following three hours as the boxes cooled. Noise levels were measured in decibels using a Radio Shack sound level meter held 6 inches from the compressor end.

Temperature measurements were taken using a digital Fluke 116 multimeter with a thermocouple temperature attachment. The sensor, a long, thin wire with the temperature probe at the end, was placed into the box as near as possible to the center. (We only opened the lid enough to get the wire inside, usually no more than a 1/16 of an inch.) Once we had the reading, we opened the lid/door for a second and read the Taylor 5924 analog refrigerator/freezer thermometer we had placed inside each unit as backup. As long as the readings were comparable, we recorded the digital reading. All were. Past experience testing other types of coolers, refrigerators, and freezers led us to take temperature readings at one hour and again at two hours. After each two-hour reading, we opened the lid and placed a one-gallon plastic jug filled with 100-degree water into the box. Three hours later, we took another temperature reading to see how well the boxes had done cooling with the water jug inside. Once each one of these temperature readings was completed and recorded, we let the coolers run unattended for 12 hours. We measured the temperatures again, then shut off the electrical power. Five hours later, we recorded another reading to see how well the boxes were insulated. The next day, after letting each unit return to room temperature, we cranked them up again, but this time, testers set them to the warmest temperature level. After they ran overnight, we checked and recorded the temperature each box was maintaining.

We wanted to see how well each cooler held food and drinks, so we packed each with the following:

(2) six-packs of canned soda

(1) six-pack of bottled beer

(1) gallon of lemonade

(1) gallon of ice tea

(1) pound sliced turkey breast

(1) 1 pound boneless ham

(2) pound blocks of cheese

In the final analysis, we picked winners based on performance, construction quality, warranty, power usage, price, and load capabilities.

Engel MT-35F

Engel is the worldwide brand name and distributor of a full line of portable fridge/freezers that range from 14- to 84-quart capacity. Engel refrigeration products, which are built by the Sawafuji Electric Co. in Japan, have been known for their quality since production started in 1962.

Our test model, the MT-35F, has a 34-quart capacity and its exterior is constructed of powder-coated and galvanized steel.

The Engel is designed to sit flat and open from the top. Its locking lid is removable for better access to the interior. Carry handles bolt onto the case sides, but we did not install them. The interior of the Engel is constructed of bright white, high-impact plastic for easy cleaning. A metal basket fits snugly inside and provides a means to hold or remove contents.

In our testing, we found the box temperature could be set between approximately 0 and 50 degrees F, making the unit useful as either a refrigerator or freezer.

The Engel held our full list of food and drink as well as three 1-pound packages of burger meat.

Bottom Line:

A top performer with an efficient compressor and low price. We rated it the Practical Sailor Budget Buy.

Norcold MRFT 40

The 40-quart Norcold is nearly identical to the Engel MT-35F. Both share a 25-inch x 14-inch footprint, but the Norcold is about 4 inches taller and uses the extra height to achieve increased capacity. Both are built in the Sawafuji factory, use the same compressor, and are constructed from powder-coated and galvanized steel outside, with high-impact plastic inside. The lid, lid lock, handles, and interior basket are the same, too, but the Norcold basket is a bit taller.

The Norcold performed well in testing and can be set to operate from 0 to 50 degrees.

We had no problem loading all of our groceries into the 40-quart Norcold. It had so much extra room, we were able to load 12 one-pound packs of burger meat, too.

A top performer.

Norcold MRFT 60

At 67 pounds, the bulky Norcold shouldnt be considered easily portable. Moving this big unit is a two-person job. It is another product of the Sawafuji Electric Co. and shares all the characteristics and features of the Engel and Norcold 40-quart. Everything is upsized here, with a larger compressor and interior.

The MRFT 60s top-mounted lid swings opens to the side and uses a chain stop instead of the rubber bumpers found on the smaller boxes. Two locks hold the lid closed tight.

This unit performed exceptionally well, taking a little longer to initially cool the bigger space, but it chewed up the hot water fast and remained colder than any other unit.

Divided into two equal-sized sections by a pair of metal baskets, the cavernous 60-quart Norcold swallowed up our provisions using only one basket. The other basket was empty and waiting for more stuff.

This brute will hold a ton of provisions, and it performed superbly.

Waeco Coolmatic CF-40

Waeco is a worldwide manufacturer and distributor of a wide variety of refrigeration systems. The Coolmatic unit we tested is constructed using a couple of different types of durable plastic. Even though its mechanical components are metal, its plastic exterior gives it excellent protection against corrosion.

The Coolmatic sits flat and opens from the top. The lid locks with two plastic latches and can be removed. It did not seem to shut as tightly as the other units we tested, in our opinion. Carry handles bolt onto the case sides, but as with the other units, we did not install them. A light is fitted to the interior; it switches on when the lid is open.

Though the Coolmatic generally performed as well as the others, it uses a less-efficient compressor, and in our test used significantly more power than the comparably sized Engel MT-35 and Norcold MRFT 40. Also, the temperature range setting did not seem to perform as advertised. When we set it to maintain a warm temperature, it shot right down to below zero.

The interior of the Coolmatic is divided into two sections, a main section with a metal basket, and a smaller, warmer section. We were able to load everything on our grocery list into the main section of the freezer, though it was a tight fit and filled the basket to capacity. We managed to pack four one-pound packages of burger meat into the small section that remained.

In our test, the Waecos Danfoss compressor was not as power-efficient as the best units tested. But we like the units completely plastic exterior and its price.

Conclusions

The compressor system used in the Engel and Norcold fridge/freezers proved to be far more efficient than the Danfoss reciprocating compressor used in the Waeco. In our tests, the Waecos amp draw was nearly 50 percent higher than a comparably sized Norcold unit. When coupled with the top-shelf construction and materials of the Engel and Norcold units, wed opt for one of these every time.

When shopping for a portable fridge/freezer, first find the right size, then buy whichever you can find at a cheaper price, Engel or Norcold. You may find only an Engel available in the size you seek as they market several more sizes than Norcold.

• Practical Sailor Value Guide: 12-Volt Portable Fridge / Freezers

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Great article. No need to be mindful of keeping the cold air inside with blocks of ice. Just peace of mind that I can cook a nice lunch or dinner after a day of catching fish.

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Adding or Changing a Boat Refrigerator

Published on April 29, 2011 ; last updated on June 18, 2020 by Carolyn Shearlock

If you’re installing a boat refrigerator for the first time, or doing a major upgrade on your existing system, you may be overwhelmed by the decisions you’re having to make simultaneously.  Perhaps a few thoughts here will provide a framework.

Like many things in cruising, from your choice of boat to the route you take, there are no universal answers in choosing a boat refrigerator system.  But understanding how one decision will impact others can narrow down the range of appropriate choices for your situation.

Four Parts to a Boat Refrigerator

Adding or upgrading a boat refrigerator isn’t like going out to an appliance store, buying the one you like and having it delivered.  On a boat, you need to consider:

• Power and how you’ll supply it
• Where you’ll install the compressor
• The box – size, location and construction all must be considered
• What brand?

They all have to work together to make having refrigeration pleasant, as opposed to a frustration.

(UPDATE:  Since I originally wrote this article, we purchased an Engel refrigerator/freezer to use as stand-alone freezer and absolutely love it — see the full article on them here .)

For most cruisers, the first questions with regards to refrigeration are “how much power will it use?” and “how can I provide the power?”

Your other choices will determine how much power the refrigerator uses, as will even your choice of how you power it.  If your refrigerator is next to the engine compartment, as is typical on many boats (a serious design flaw), running the engine to provide power – whether via alternator to the batteries or directly for an engine-driven system – actually will heat up the box and cause you to need even more power to cool it down.  The same is true if the refrigerator is next to a generator compartment.

Relatively few boats opt for engine-driven refrigeration any more.  With an engine-driven system, you run the engine a couple of times a day, generally for 30 to 60 minutes at a time, to cool down large chill plates that then keep the box cool until the next run time.  There are several disadvantages to this system:

• You’re tied to a schedule for running the engine – even if you’re at the dock, anchored or sailing along with plenty of wind.
• The temperature in the box fluctuates over the course of the day, particularly in warm climates.
• It’s almost impossible to have a freezer with an engine-driven system.
• If you have a problem with your engine, you’ve just lost your refrigerator as well.
• Fuel cost and engine maintenance add up, not to mention the extra engine hours you’ll rack up.

Read more about the disadvantages of engine-driven refrigeration .

While some large boats opt for 110-volt systems using generators and inverters, and I’ve known a couple of trawlers that used RV propane systems (as did our Gemini catamaran when we bought it; see why we switched to 12 volt ), by far the majority of family cruisers opt for 12-volt systems.  A 12-volt system operates off the main battery bank, and power for it can be generated any way you’d otherwise charge the batteries:  solar, wind, towing generator, alternator, shore power or generator.  Most boats use a combination, and virtually all have to increase their power generation capabilities when they install refrigeration if they haven’t had it before.

Two things to consider with a 12-volt system:

• If you are heading from a relatively cool climate to a hot one (say, going from San Francisco to the Sea of Cortez or Maine to the Caribbean), expect to use a lot more power for your refrigeration than you’re accustomed to.  Lots of boats coming to the Sea of Cortez found themselves scurrying to add solar panels or buy a generator as the weather warmed up.
• Make sure your battery bank is sized for the load you’ll be putting on it.  Every system is different as to how efficient it is (more on this later), but it’s likely you’ll need 100 amp-hours or more a day if you’re in a hot climate.

More and more boat refrigerators are coming as all-in-one units but many still have a separate compressor. If you choose one with a separate compressor, it’s worth taking a bit of time to think about where you can – and where you should – place the compressor.

Yes, you have to find a spot where there is room and that may seriously limit the choices.  But don’t just opt for the first place you find.

In simple terms, most compressors work by transporting heat from the refrigerant to the air around it.   It will operate much more efficiently if there is good air flow around it – and if it is kept as cool as possible and if the air that reaches it is as cool as possible.

Therefore, putting the compressor in the engine compartment is not good.  Nor is putting it in any enclosed location with only small louvers for air circulation.  NOTE:  A few systems use a keel cooler that transfers heat to the water instead of air cooling — with these there is little choice in placement.

You also have to consider distance from refrigerator box, as the refrigerant has to make a full loop from the compressor to the evaporator in the box and back.  Bends in the tubing and also a long distance make for more resistance to circulation of the refrigerant and hence a less efficient system.  Be sure to check the specs before buying a compressor to be sure that it will work in your planned location.

And another important consideration is access for maintenance, recharging the system and other repairs.  Okay, so access is never good on a boat.  But at least don’t put it where you have to stand on your head or dismount the compressor to check a trouble light or recharge the system.

Ten years ago, the “box” for most boat refrigerators was custom made.  Now, far more are drop-in units. Either way, you have a number of choices to make.

Top-loading or front-loading?

If you’re used to a “shore” refrigerator, front loading just seems so much more natural.  And yes, it’s usually easier to see what’s there.  But front loaders have a nasty tendency to have food fall out if the boat moves while the door is open.  And you need to install clear plastic strips to keep as much cold air in the refrigerator as possible when the door is open.  And the opening needs to be either fore or aft facing in a sailboat – otherwise everything will fall out on one tack or the other.

After taking a bit of time to get used to it, I actually preferred my top loader.  With a bunch of bins to keep things organized, I could find things quickly.  And they stayed in place, no matter what tack we were on or how rough the seas.  I was even able to open the refrigerator and make sandwiches while we were riding out a hurricane at anchor and rolling gunwale to gunwale.

On our current boat, a catamaran, we have a front loader and I’m struck by how much more often I have to defrost because every time I open the door, warm moist air rushes in.

Size of a Boat Refrigerator

To some extent, a smaller refrigerator is more efficient as there is less space to cool.  And yes, having a refrigerator full of cold items as opposed to air is more efficient.  But you also need some air space in the refrigerator for that “cool” to circulate.  And if things are so tightly packed that you have to remove half of what’s in the refrigerator to get the item you need out, that’s not efficient, either.

A very deep refrigerator can pose problems.  One of the top gripes for many women is “standing on my head to get things out of the frig bottom.”  (From Mary, on Facebook.)

And let’s face it, you want a refrigerator that’s large enough to hold what you want it to.  And that’s a personal “feeling” — you may want enough meat, drinks and veggies for a month at a time, or just food for a weekend.  Read my related article on Reducing What You Store in the Refrigerator , though, before making a decision on how much space you need.

If you’re just re-doing the refrigerator, you’re probably more or less locked in to a location.  But if you’re re-doing the galley, the top priority should be to keep the refrigerator away from the engine compartment (generator compartment if that’s an issue, too).  Second priority would be to keep the refrigerator away from the hull and the sun heating it up.  The more it’s away from anywhere that sun will beat down on it (such as next to the companionway), the better.

In general, the thicker and higher the R-value, the better.  Materials are constantly evolving, so I won’t make specific recommendations.  Of course, if you have a limited space, the thickness of insulation is a tradeoff with space inside the refrigerator.

General design

A lid that latches down (instead of just being held by gravity or a magnetic strip) with a thick gasket is best for your boat refrigerator – far less cold air will seep out.  The lid won’t fly across the boat in a knockdown, either!

An outside surface (surround) that reflects heat will also do wonders to help your refrigerator run more efficiently.  Que Tal had a teak surround that frequently got warm to the touch in summer – you know that’s not good.

If you decide to put a drain in the bottom for when you defrost, it needs to have a trap in it – and the trap needs to be within the insulated area.  An alternative is to be able to securely close the drain.  Otherwise, hot air from the bilge (well, maybe not hot , but hotter than what’s in the refrigerator) will rise into the refrigerator and you’ll constantly be having to cool it.

There are all sorts of design possibilities for having either a separate freezer or a freezer compartment within the refrigerator.  The size of the freezer determines how much meat you can carry, as well as how many meals you can prepare ahead for a passage.  But it takes a lot of energy to freeze foods in the first place, although not a lot to keep a full freezer frozen.

My freezer was about ½ cubic foot, and I found it adequate (I boned all meat before freezing so as not to waste space on non-edible items), but I would have loved a larger one.  If you want to have ice, remember to allow room for trays (be sure to get the vertical ones) in addition to food.  Note that very few boat freezers are cold enough to keep ice cream.

I now use a Engle Portable unit as a dedicated freezer and love it — and it will freeze ice cream, even on the hottest days.

The Brand of Your Boat Refrigerator

The longer we cruised, the more adamant we became about buying brands – and models within brands – that lots of other cruisers were using or that were composed of generic parts.  Regardless of whether it was refrigeration or another system, we found over and over again that having something that other people – both helpful cruisers and local repairmen – knew of and could get parts for was worth not necessarily having the “latest and greatest.”

Good repair manuals that you can actually get, off the shelf parts, and universal fittings are crucial once you’re away from the original installer.  I also like companies that will respond to technical support questions by e-mail (you don’t want to deal with support issues by sat phone).  The time to think about these issues is before you plunk your money down.

As you work through these questions, you’ll almost certainly have to make some compromises to end up with a boat refrigerator system that works for you.  The trick is to realize the tradeoffs as you’re making them, and not after the fact when things aren’t working the way you envisioned.  For example, a tiny box with thick insulation won’t use much power – but will it give you the food and drinks you want?

A refrigerator is an expensive piece of galley equipment – even more so if you have to add extra batteries and upgrade your power generation.  As brands and models are always changing, I don’t want to recommend specific systems.  But as you talk to sales reps, realize that there are numerous components to the refrigeration system, and choices in each affect the others . . . and your ultimate satisfaction!

And check out our other courses and products

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Reader Interactions

Downeaster32 says

April 3, 2012 at 10:48 pm

Most compressors have a single fan, and this is typically mounted to blow from the cabin on to the compressor and into the locker. I believe a big chunk of efficiency can be gained by adding another fan. The fans do not take much power themselves (small computer case fans). One fan is the intake which draws air over the compressor & cooling coils inside whatever locker they’re mounted. The second fan is an exhaust, which pulls the now-warmed air back out of the locker and into the cabin again. In my setup, the fans are pointed 90 degrees from each other, on each side of a corner locker. I don’t have comparison power measurements, I just notice the fridge seems to run much less and the locker stays much much cooler (and fresher smelling too).

Renato says

August 10, 2012 at 10:47 pm

The most perfect explanation about refrigeration for small boats I have seen yet. Renato, Rio de Janeiro city, Brazil. Thanks a lot !

January 30, 2013 at 2:18 pm

Hi,Thanks for your explanation. Given I am doing a full refit on my yacht your explanation helped in that I have a lot more to think about in what we need to do before I go ahead and make that final decision. Thanks a lot… David “Pelikan” Singapore

June 27, 2013 at 2:13 pm

Nicely done and THANKS!

I’m in the planning stages of building (I hope) a 44 footer to live aboard/cruise full time. I came across your article in doing research and greatly appreciate the explanation given. I had looked at “normal” marine refrigerator/freezers that look similar to home units but run off 12v or 24v when not connected to shore power. Your article has me leaning much more towards a custom built top loading system now, especially since I can add much more insulation in a custom system and therefor use much less power.

Randy Mabry says

December 24, 2021 at 6:56 pm

You can add as much insulation (rigid foam) to a off-shelf front-loading refrigerator as you commit space for. Just attach to the outside of the refrig 3 sides ( sometimes additionally bottom & back sides. I also insulated the Inside of the hull wall in the locker (1″ rigid foam). As suggested earlier. i added a box fan blowing on the refrig coils controled by easily available 12v thermocouple set to come on at locker temp 95 deg.

Billy Forde says

November 15, 2013 at 11:48 am

There is an insulation product called Spaceloft. Search for it on ebay. I wrapped my top loading box in this and could not believe the difference. Its a bit expensive but amazing insulation. It more than halved the time the compressor runs. My box is now more cold and requires less than half the power to keep it that way. The point about the 2 fans is a very good one. I’m going to try that. It makes perfect sense to me to expel the warm air the fan has extracted from the heat exchanger. Also cold air sinks, when you open a top loader very little cold air escapes as colder air naturally falls back into the sealed compartment. When you open a front opening fridge almost all the cold air flows out the bottom like water and warm air rushes in to the top of the fridge so forget about a front opener. Sail on and remember you can never know too much!!

P. Childs says

May 12, 2015 at 10:00 pm

The simplest system with the least power draw is an Engel. No more antiquated 1940 technology components and systems that won’t freeze ice cream. The ONLY system on our boat that is dependable, modestly priced and outperforms day in and day out is our Engel. Small amperage draw, and can be either cooler or freezer, instantly, on your command of the thermostat. it will automatically revert to 110 or 12v when changing from shore to ship power. We love the portable marine unit, but would like to take it a step further and throw the cold plate amp hog nightmare overboard and replace with a drop in Engel or another Engel portable. We could have three more Engels for the amount of wasted money poured into maintaining the antiquity of cold plates, lines, and pumps.

Mike Wilson says

May 13, 2015 at 8:25 am

Could not agree more with regarding junking the hold plates. Mexicolder has been advocating this for years. Portable systems are good put truly lack insulation which is the cornerstone to success and thus the amp draw in super hot climes like the Sea of Cortez….day after day 100F PLUS. Mexicolder has a long proven track record in this respect. We use a double fan cooled condenser, they only way in serious heat as a static coil is not enough.

captain ron says

May 23, 2015 at 6:33 am

Yes i keep 2 of then . one 80 lt freezer witch i run the boat motor until it freezes to minus 10 and have ready made frozen meals already made up and sealed . then i only open it once every few days and take out what i need and put into a 2 nd fride at 3 deg and use at will . the freezer uses very little power when all is frozen . u carnt keep opening it all day long to get out food and drink or it won,t stay frozen .Every months or so i refill it with prepared meals and freeze it down solid again .

Frank Collins says

September 30, 2015 at 7:13 pm

I also found it helpful to purchase a small RV refrigerator fan. The fan circulates the cold air and runs a week or so on 2 “D” batteries. On EBAY the run about $20.. I put the small fan box as close to the freezer as possible

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This unit has a large interior volume with a small cut out dimension. Its large door, with magnetic ..

$1,490.99 $2,129.99

Novakool 3 Plate Freezer Conversion Kit

2 x 16”x10”   LT201 Series of ice box conversion kits Mobile ap..

Novakool 3.1cu Fridge AC/DC 12/24-110/240

$1,602.99 $2,289.99

Novakool 3.42 cu FT freezer Ac/Dc

The F3800 is a 3.5 cu. ft. (100 liter) freezer. It comes standard with a black front panel.FeaturesP..

$1,910.99 $2,729.99

Novakool 3.42 cu Ft Freezer Dc

$1,665.99 $2,379.99

Novakool 3.42Cu Ft Fridge AC/DC

3.42Cu Ft Fridge Acdc ---- Special Order Only (Non Stocked Item) ---- Package Quantity: 1Cut Out&nbs..

$1,574.99 $2,249.99

Novakool 3.42Cu. Fridge Only Dc

3.42Cu. Fridge Only Dc ---- Special Order Only (Non Stocked Item) ---- Package Quantity: 1Cut Out&nb..

$1,371.99 $1,959.99

Novakool 3.5 Cu Ft Refrigerator with Freezer Compartment-R3800DC

3.5 Cu.Ft.Fridge 12/24V Dc ---- ---- Package Quantity: 1 This unit has a large interior volume wi..

$1,308.99 $1,959.99

Novakool 4.2Cuft.Side/Side Fridge/Fridge AC/DC

The RS4600 is a 4.2 cu. ft. (119 liter) dual refrigerator unit with an integrated freezer compartmen..

Novakool 4.3 cu ft Fridge Dc No Fzr.

4.3 Cu.Ft.Fridge Dc No Fzr. ---- Special Order Only (Non Stocked Item) ---- Package Quantity: 1the R..

Novakool 4.3cu Fridge Ac/Dc 12/24-110/240 R4500ACDC

4.3Cu.Frid Ac/Dc 12/24-110/240 ---- ---- Package Quantity: 1   This unit has a large inte..

$1,694.99 $2,429.99

Novakool 4.3Cuft Fridge AC/DC Flat Plate

4.3Cuft.Fridge Acdc Flat Plate ---- Special Order Only (Non Stocked Item) ---- Package Quantity: 1th..

$1,700.99 $2,429.99

Novakool 5.8Cu.Br.Stainless Steel Ac/Dc Fridg/Freezer Only

5.8Cu.Br.S/S Ac/Dc Fridg/Freezer ---- ---- Package Quantity: 1 This unit has a large interior vol..

$1,999.99 $2,959.99

Novakool 5.8Cu.Br.Stainless Steel Ac/Dc Fridge Only

5.8Cu.Br.S/S Ac/Dc Fridge Only ---- Special Order Only (Non Stocked Item) ---- Package Quantity: 1td..

Novakool 5.8Cu.Br.Stainless Steel Dc Fridge/Freezer

5.8Cu.Br.S/S Dc Fridge/Freezer ---- ---- Package Quantity: 1Positive latch system ..

$1,844.99 $2,659.99

Novakool 6 cu ft Fridge/Freezer AC/DC

6 Cu.Ft.Fridge/Freezer Acdc ---- Special Order Only (Non Stocked Item) ---- Package Quantity: 1 ..

$2,351.99 $3,359.99

Novakool 6.8 cu ft Fridge/Freezer

The RFU6800 is a 6.8 cu. ft. (193 liter) upright refrigerator/freezer unit. It comes standard with b..

Novakool 7.3 C.ft Fridge Dc Only

7.3 C.Ft.Fridge Dc Only ---- ---- Package Quantity: 1 These two door refrigerators draw 5.3 amps ..

$2,225.99 $3,179.99

7.3 Cu.Ft.Fridge Ac/Dc ---- ---- Package Quantity: 1 These two door refrigerators draw 5.3 amps o..

Novakool 7.5Cu Ft Side/Side Fridge/Freezer

7.5Cu Ft Side/Side Fridge/Freezer ---- ---- Package Quantity: 1 Large two door under counter desi..

$2,071.99 $2,959.99

Novakool 7.6 C.ft Fridge Dc Only

The RS7600 is a 7.0 cu. ft. (198 liter) dual refrigerator unit with an integrated freezer compartmen..

$2,491.99 $3,559.99

Novakool 9.1 cu ft Fridge Ac/Dc RFU9000ACDC

An efficient single compressor unit with a refrigerator on top and freezer compartment on the bottom..

$2,599.99 $3,859.99

Novakool Freezer-F1200ACDC

Designed to replace some common Ice Maker cut outs. The mounting flange can be moved to allow for sh..

$1,581.99 $2,259.99

Novakool Freezer-F1200DC

Novakool freezer-f1900dc.

The F1900 is a 1.9 cu. ft. (54 liter) freezer compartment. It comes standard with a black front pane..

Novakool Freezer-F2300ACDC

The F2300 is a 2.1 cu. ft. (59 liter) freezer compartment. It comes standard with a black front pane..

Why Bench-Style Freezers are the Best Marine Refrigeration Systems for Your Boat or Yacht

The bench-style freezer is a favorite among boaters, captains, and crews for many reasons, but when it comes down to it — they’re simply the best choice for your boat for several reasons.

Superior Design for Keeping Items Cold

Ever wonder why your attic is much hotter than your basement even if your HVAC system is working properly? It’s because hot air rises and cold air drops. When you open a bench-style freezer, the cold air will take longer to escape since there is no large opening for the cold air to “fall out” of the unit. This means your unit will not have to work as hard to remove additional hot air when the box is opened for you to take something out and your freezer will function more efficiently overall because of this design.

Seating Option

Since you’re dealing with a limited amount of space on your boat or yacht, maximizing every inch of it is important. Standing a couple of feet high, bench-style freezers are of similar height to the average seating on a boat and are long enough to fit several people. They can also be fitted with custom, removable cushions, making them a comfortable and stylish seating option as well.

Ease of Use

Bench-style freezers are easier to pack a large amount of food or other items into due to the top-opening construction. Stacking things vertically can be a challenge. You may also worry if your items will topple over and out of your freezer the minute you open it, as things tend to shift while underway. It’s easier to stack and pack from an aerial position from the bottom up through the top opening of your freezer. And rest assured, when you open the unit to take something out, it will be right where you left it.

More Storage for the Space

With these short and convenient units, you’re only limited on the amount of available freezer space based on the size of your deck. Many boat owners use multiple bench-style freezers, and due to their size, they don’t obstruct views or prevent you from achieving the look and feel you want on your boat.

Versatility

Bench-style units, if created with Dual Control , can be used as a refrigerator, freezer or cooler in an emergency situation where power is not available. Being able to utilize the unit as a refrigerator or freezer with Dual Control gives you additional flexibility when hosting guests or to make the most out of the type of trip you’re taking. For example, if you’re going on a several hour fishing trip, you may want to keep bait refrigerated and not frozen, but on a several day excursion, you may need to keep food frozen to use in the late stages of your voyage.

Frigibar specializes in manufacturing the best American-made, luxury handcrafted fiberglass freezers available on the market, including bench-style freezers. View the Frigibar product catalog to learn more about how our freezers can improve the quality of your boating adventures.

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