laser sailboat cockpit drain plug

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E6 ILCA Hiking Strap

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Ilca/laser cockpit drain plug, brass.

WinDesign Parts for Laser
WinDesign Laser Bailer & Drain Plug

WinDesign Cockpit plug for Laser

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Manufacturer part #: EX2076 Cockpit plug for the Laser®; lose your plug? happens all the time, start stocking up!

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Brass Cockpit Drain Plug Assembly

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The hole in the rear of the cockpit is used as a venturi drain for the ILCA cockpit. This brass fitting set is fitted in order to use the venturi.

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Laser / ILCA Cockpit Drain Bushing

The bushing assembly easily installs into all model year Lasers to enable an autobailer to be fitted . Replace broken plastic plug housing. Brass assembly for Laser / ILCA cockpit.

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Laser Cockpit Drain Plug w/Retainer Line

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Product Description

Retainer Line

Laser Cockpit Drain Plug Bushing Assembly 91284

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Description

Laser Cockpit Drain 92184 - This Laser Drain Bush Set sits at the rear of the cockpit and creates the opening for the self-bailer control rod to operate through.

When replacing this item, be sure to bed it with Sikaflex 291

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Sikaflex 291i Sealant 300ml

Sikaflex 292i Sealant 300ml - White

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Laser Drain Bush for Cockpit - 91284

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Product Information

The Laser Drain Bush Set sits between your Laser hull and cockpit.

The Laser Self Bailer or Bung fits through this drain bush.

Remember to fit using sikaflex.

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Customer Reviews

The item arrived on time but I was disappointed to find that there were no fitting instructions/suggestions which could have saved time and inconvenience. Once the fitting had been sorted out and sealant applied, the end result was perfectly satisfactory.

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Windesign Laser Bung - Cockpit Drain Plug

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Rubber cockpit plug for the Laser® auto bailer. Windesign Laser Bung - Cockpit Plug

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LASER/ILCA TIPS: How to Replace and Install the Autobailer

Whether you’re installing an autobailer for the first time on an older Laser, or replacing one on your ILCA or Laser, this step-by-step guide we’ve created will walk you through the process.

What exactly does an autobailer do?

The autobailer is there to (you guessed it) automatically bail the water. Original Lasers simply had a hole in the back of the cockpit with a rubber stopper. To operate, you’d pull the stopper out to bail, and then replace it to keep the water from re-entering. Super basic, and not a great system.

Modern Lasers / ILCAs have a black plastic autobailer fitted into the hull which is a big improvement. It functions by the Venturi effect that pulls (or suctions) water out the cockpit when the boat is in motion. This is vastly easier to operate as it is now automated. This upgrade is something all modern boats now have.

If you want to geek out about fluid dynamics and how the Venturi effect and Bernoulli's principle applies on your boat - check out this post on the Physics Stack Exchange (click here) .

Steps for How to Install an ILCA / Laser Autobailer:

Remove the old bailer: The bailer is attached to the hull by only a single screw. When you remove it, you might find it’s ‘stuck’ to the hull - this happens when iff too much silicone was used previously to ‘seal’ the bailer to the hull. So after removing the one screw you may need to tug on the bailer itself a bit. Remember to also remove the cockpit bung plug inside your boat - do this by twisting it side to side and pulling.
Clean the area: Scrape off any left over silicone on the edges and in the screw hole. Cut away any sticky silicone or tape.
Sometimes a bailer can have a slight curve. So put it on the hull and make sure it sits flush. A slight indentation into the hull is better than having it protrude
Gaps at the front edge are not ideal, the bailer should sit flush.
One Dab Will Do: Put a ‘large pea’ sized dab of silicone on the screw hole before installing. You can also dip half of the screw threads in silicone. Don’t go crazy. This is not a case of ‘more is better’
Install: Slip the brass bar into the hole that leads to the cockpit. Push the bailer into the hull and do a final fit check. Then tighten the screw - being mindful not to overtighten. The bailer shouldn’t move around at all. Install the cockpit bung from inside the cockpit. You can do this again by twisting it firmly.
Check operation: When the bung is pushed in, the chute should be firmly closed. When the bung is pulled out, the chute should be fully down. Make sure it operates smoothly.

The Hull Story:

The shape of the Laser / ILCA hull has not changed - including where the autobailer fits in. That indention in the bottom is the same as it has always been, which means a new autobailer purchased this year will fit a Laser from the 1970s.

If your boat is very old , you might notice one small change has occurred. It’s not with the hull, but the bushing that connects the hull with the cockpit. In modern boats, there is a brass fitting that bridges that gap. In boats up to maybe the early 90’s, this was plastic.

We sell an Autobailer Bushing Kit, you need this if you are adding an auotbailer to an old boat that has the original black plastic bushing: ILCA/Laser Bushing Kit

What about these Bailer Springs?

For years, there were only little rubber bands inside the autobailer that pulled the chute closed. These were just o-rings , acting as springs - and would wear out after a year or so. New autobailers still have them, but there is an upgrade worth taking:

To ensure years of reliable operation, buy a bailer spring. It’s metal, will last forever and never wears out.

Shop : C-Vane Bailer Springs (click here) & Rooster Bailer Spring Plate (click here)

Final Word:

A cockpit filled with water is no fun. A low-tech method to solve this is the original bailer - your foot. Twist the inside of your foot flat along the bottom of the cockpit and KICK towards the back. You can get out 70% of the water that way. It’s annoying and distracting - but if you capsize, or go through a big wave, and the cockpit is full - KICK!

For everything else - a well functioning autobailer will be a good companion to keeping the cockpit dry without distraction so you can focus on sailing.

Products Mentioned:

ILCA Autobailer Assembly
Laser/ILCA Autobailer (Nautos)
Repair Kit : Laser Autobailer Repair Kit (Nautos) - if you want to only replace parts and not the whole thing.
Cvane Laser/ILCA Autobailer springs
Rooster Laser/ILCA Autobailer Spring Plate
Laser Autobailer O-Rings
Bungs : ILCA Autobailer Bung
Bushing : Laser/ILCA Autobailer Bushing Kit
Other : Silicone

Additional Resources:

Click here for Bailer Spring Install Video

Click here for our Laser/ILCA Rigging Guide

Click here for our Laser/ILCA Rigging Videos

Click here for our Laser/ILCA Reference Photos

This article was written by George Yioulos at West Coast Sailing.

All rights are reserved - if you want to make a link, great!

If you want to copy the content in any of our articles, please make a request to [email protected]

#autobailer

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Hull & Deck Parts

ILCA Autobailer Assembly

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Description

This is the complete ILCA auto bailer, ready to install. Mounts to all model year boats. A pull on the cockpit drain plug opens the chute ont he bottom of the boat and allows water to drain from the cockpit. Kit includes the full bailer assembly and installation hardware.

A bailer repair kit is also available elsewhere on this site.

LP Part # 91009

Product Reviews (2)

Auto bailer, ilca.

Posted by Charles Barclay on 26th May 2021

Works as intended, easy to install. Use a dab of silicone or 4200 on screw hole. Tyvek tape over front of bailer, easily replaced, keeps the front edge of the bailer down. Buy the rooster spring, or spare rings for annual replacement.

ILCA Autobailer

Posted by Charles Barclay on 9th Apr 2021

This is a Nautos bailer. Easy installation. The O-rings typically last 1 season. The rubber O-rings pull the water trap back into position and stretch when it is open. They deteriorate with use and salt water. If you can find replacement springs they last longer. It’s not a bad idea to seal the edges with a small bead of sealant (NOT 5200). If the boat is stored upside down in the sun, it looks like the leading edge can curl in the sun then get caught on dolly straps or docks when pulling the boat out.

Related Products

ILCA Autobailer Repair Kit

ILCA Rudder Assembly Complete

ILCA Drain Bushing Assembly

ILCA 4 / ILCA 7 Lower Base Plug

ILCA Curved Vang Key

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Laser® and ILCA®

EX2081 – Drain plug for Laser® and ILCA®

Description

Drain plug for the Laser® and ILCA®.

This product is compatible with Laser® or ILCA® but is not an original Laser® or ILCA® product. Laser® is a registered trademark owned by Velum Limited. ILCA® is a registered trademark owned by Laser Class Association Inc.

EX2080 – Drain plug assembly for Laser® and ILCA®

EX1082 – Optimist top cover SD Optiparts

EX1301 – 4 mm plate shackle

EX1304 – Stainless steel spring

EX1308 – Harken 40mm single carbo block

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Cockpit Drains Newbie

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My small Hurley Silhouette only has one set of through hulls. The cockpit bailing drains. They run through newly replaced hoses from the cockpit down through the bottom of the boat. Is it normal and ok that these are not on some type of seacock? Everything about this boat is simple. Making it a great first boat. This seems simple too. Is it too simple? Do I need to do anything special? If a hose fails will my boat sink? Sorry if these are dumb questions. I am learning.

How big is the boat? How long are the hoses? On larger boats, you'd want the cockpit to drain quickly if it fills up, so you would not use seacocks, but my drains are right through the stern and don't have any length of hose. On a smaller boat, like a Laser, the drain has a plug on a tether because your weight would otherwise fill up the cockpit when you're not moving through the water. No hoses here either. I'd be curious to know what others think, too.

It is a British made 1967 twin keel 18 foot sailboat. They are made to Lloyds standards and are known to be great boats but since I am new the idea of 2 unplugged holes is weird...but I guess normal? Don't want to fix what isn't broke and they are brand new hoses. I just want to know all the things I need to watch out for. I imagine those hoses are important and if one breaks the boat will start flooding? Guess since I will keep her in the water in a wet slip that should be a checklist item?

The early Pearsons also had cockpit drain hoses without seacocks. They are frowned upon now. Most insurance companies would make you install seacocks to get a policy. Ken

My guess is that the end of the stand pipe at the drain hose connection is higher than the waterline.

My Bristol 27 has hoses attached to 'volcano' tubes. Still way below the water line. I think if I was going off shore I would put a proper thru-hull and seacock on. I wouldn't worry about it. Just inspect the tube and connection as you would any other below waterline plumbing.

My cockpit drains go to through-hulls, which I close now and then to exercise, so they don't sieze. The rest of the time they stay open. So the only time they could prevent the boat from sinking, is if you are there at the time, and have a hose failure. My hose is the Trident sanitation hose, the super thick stuff at $10 per foot. Double hose clamped. This makes them just about the most solid part of the boat. So what protection are these through-hulls providing? Virtually none. They might keep the insurance company happy, but that's it. If I were the OP, I would make sure that the hoses are top quality, that they are double-clamped, and forget about it.\ PS, Boat US recently reported that one of the main causes of sinkings at the dock was blocked (or closed) cockpit scuppers. The cockpit fills with water when it rains, maybe some pours over the companionway step into the salon and then the bilge, the cockpit eventually lowers to the point where the scuppers are underwater, and then the boat can sink in minutes.

Surely if they were below the waterline, they wouldn't be drains, they'd be floods?

If your drains don't have seacocks, you should probably have some tapered plugs and a mallet handy. It's probably a good idea even if your thru-hulls have seacocks.

Thanks for all the replies. And no the cockpit drain didn't drain me down it lol. I guess I didn't pay attention in 7th grade physics but I was just trying to gain understanding as to the holes and hoses on my boat. Am I correct in assuming the danger is on a hose breaking? I am a pilot and am trying to understand all the possible points of failure. Like bad failure. And keep tabs on them like we do planes.

Nice if there's enough wiggle room under the cockpit for the hoses to cross to the opposite side. That way your socks don't get wet when heeled.

I agree, Mark. I learned something about how easily a cockpit drain can plug up, and constructed a device to prevent this from happening. It's a cone made of nylon screening that inserts into the drain and protrudes about 10 inches above it. This prevents things such as leaves and other debris from plugging the opening. Keep in mind, a single, oak leaf blown into the cockpit during a storm could plug the entire drain opening, thereby making it useless and flooding the cockpit, the cabin and possibly sink the boat. The next time I get to the boat I'll shoot some photos and post them.

My Wayfarer had venturi-based scuppers, which you could open underway, in the bottom of the floor. You had to remember to close them before you docked, or you'd end up with a boat full of water!

Our 1975 Bristol 24 has no seacocks on the cockpit drains, came from factory that way, Sailstar/Bristol built over 700 of them. As long as one does appropriate preventative maintainence, (inspecting the hoses and clamps etc) the odds of failure are quite low.

I agree with all posts about using good hoses, double clamping, frequent inspection and proper maintenance. That is good advice for all thruhulls. But, regardless of all that, it seems to me that if you have a thru hull below the waterline you want a seacock on it.

Scuppers, usually drain above the waterline its true, but they don't have to. But as long as the TOP of the hose (in this case scupper drain) is well above the waterline, you are OK with it opening to below the waterline. My S2 7.9 has scuppers with hoses (and strainer lids too), but they exit about 1 inch above the waterline (unless everyone is in the back of the bus I guess). The "volcano tubes" are aptly named as downwind with following seas, under kite when you are riding surf, the stern squats, and water sometimes shoots up the hoses (like a volcano). I never gave it much mind as as soon as you start climbing the next wave it drains out again. You right though at that point the scuppers exit UNDER water (even for me)... and a busted hose could easily ruin your day. Would I put seacocks on it? NO, it'd restrict much needed GPM... Keep the hoses maintained YES, and double clamp, yes. Then go sail it like mad. Now I'm going to go stand on my head at the boat to check those hoses again. Thanks for that.

thanks everyone...I totally understand the principles now...I am suffering from extreme worry about the boat "alone" at the dock haha...I guess this plagues new boat owners? so I was worried about leaving it like this but now thanks to you all I understand while tied up at the dock I actually WANT those holes open and unplugged so a good storm doesn't ruin my day...so I think I will invest in some good plugs for when I am underway and leave it at that...checklist item to keep an eye on and nothing more...ughh...I feel like a new parent or something...

...so I think I will invest in some good plugs for when I am underway and leave it at that... Click to expand...

Thanks for all the response...well here is ANOTHER question...figured no need to start a new thread for this little idea... Due to the lack of an electrical system currently on my little Hurley I found a 110V bilge pump with internal switch...you can find it on west marine...thought it might be a good idea to leave it plugged into the shore power unit when I am away and I will have an instant pumping solution...then I got to thinking...maybe leaving an electrical device plugged in on a vacant boat might be a bad idea...thoughts on this? I only live about 20 minutes from the marina so being there every couple of days probably negates most issues that this would solve as I have my own portable pump that I can just bring and/or keep on the boat.

?
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Thread starter powdermoose
Start date Jun 1, 2011
Oday Owner Forums
Ask An Oday Owner

powdermoose

[SIZE=+1] I bought an older Oday Javelin and the manual says that it is self-bailing. It has a drain plug aft and a drain plug in the cockpit well. I am leaving the aft plug in the boat when it's in the water although it is above the waterline when no one is in the boat. After it rained there was water in the cockpit well and cockpit floor... so it was not self-bailing. I moved the lever on the cockpit drain, but nothing happened. When I removed the cockpit drain it started taking water into the cockpit instead of draining water out. How does this thing self-bail? Do I need a different plug? Thank you for the help. Sandi [/SIZE]

powdermoose said: [SIZE=+1] I bought an older Oday Javelin and the manual says that it is self-bailing. It has a drain plug aft and a drain plug in the cockpit well. I am leaving the aft plug in the boat when it's in the water although it is above the waterline when no one is in the boat. After it rained there was water in the cockpit well and cockpit floor... so it was not self-bailing. I moved the lever on the cockpit drain, but nothing happened. When I removed the cockpit drain it started taking water into the cockpit instead of draining water out. How does this thing self-bail? Do I need a different plug? [/SIZE] [SIZE=+1] Thank you for the help. [/SIZE] [SIZE=+1] Sandi [/SIZE] Click to expand

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Sunbird22358

How "old" is this JAVELIN? I am basing my answer on this being a 1973 or later model. The (1973-85) Javelins and the DS II have the same self-bailer. Joe, there are no hoses, the bailer goes right thru hull and cockpit sole, water collects i na shallow well at aft end of cockpit and there is a "gutter" along each side of the cockpit to direct water aft to that well. The boat will "self-bail" when under way, suction is created by the water moving past the backwards "scoop" of the bailer. This is also the same bailer used on the SUNFISH sailboat. Anyway, yes, the bailer does let in a bit of water at rest. But if yo uget rain it will drain out once the water builds up higher than the outside waterline, ideally..... there is a little plastic ball inside the bailer that is SUPPOSED to seal the drain against water entry.......then if you get water inside the cockpit (due to rain, spray, or taking water over the lee rail) the water inside will pus hthe ball down enough to allow the inside water to drain. Yeh, Right! That is how it is supposed to work!! In reality.......well, a bit of water usually does flow in through the bailer at rest..... in 15 years of owning my DS II, I've yet to find a way to get the bailer to work as it should. So, I gave up...... the plug in the bailer is left open while moored to allow rai nto drain out, and while sailing or otherwise using the boat....I insert the plug to keep water out (easy enough to pull the plug out of the bailer if I took water over the side.) If I leave the boat in the water with a lot of rain forcast (and I mean a LOT!!) I usually remove the 1" plug that is higher up on the transom.......that way the water should never get higher than than that (yes ,water does flow in through that too..... but still better than depending on that little 5/8" hole i nthe bailer for draining a major amount of water.

Rod, I found out later about the javelin self bailing system from my friend Wayne and made a reply in her other thread in "Day Sailors." She posted the same thread in both forums. So I stand corrected. Joe

Well, a lot of the larger O'Days have exactly the same setup as your 222...... so, it was an easy mistake! You are certainly the 222 "GURU" (I guess that would apply to the 192 as well) though...... and you have provided me with plenty of knowledge. Hopefully I've shared an equal amount of smaller O'DAY (especially Day Sailer II) info. Powdermoose; Attached is a pic of my boat, bailer plug out... note the water level.

Sunbird22358 said: Well, a lot of the larger O'Days have exactly the same setup as your 222...... so, it was an easy mistake! You are certainly the 222 "GURU" (I guess that would apply to the 192 as well) though...... and you have provided me with plenty of knowledge. Hopefully I've shared an equal amount of smaller O'DAY (especially Day Sailer II) info. Powdermoose; Attached is a pic of my boat, bailer plug out... note the water level. Click to expand

Just returned from vacation. The bilge is full and the cockpit had filled up with 4" of water. Luckily it was still floating since I had placed a tarp over the boom to create a semi-tent. I bailed the cockpit, but when I pulled the transom plug nothing came out of the bilge. I am thinking that the bilge is holding all of the water toward the bow. I was afraid to pull the drain plug in the cockpit since it took water in the last time that I did that rather than draining water out. There wasn't any water in the bilge when I did that before so the water had to be coming into the boat from the bottom of the boat somehow. Any ideas on what I should do to fix this? I am leaving again with a relief team to Joplin's tornado victims and then have another 2 week vacation coming to Utah. Bailing the boat to keep it from sinking it going to be a problem. Thank you for any suggestions!!!

powdermoose said: Just returned from vacation. The bilge is full and the cockpit had filled up with 4" of water. Luckily it was still floating since I had placed a tarp over the boom to create a semi-tent. I bailed the cockpit, but when I pulled the transom plug nothing came out of the bilge. I am thinking that the bilge is holding all of the water toward the bow. I was afraid to pull the drain plug in the cockpit since it took water in the last time that I did that rather than draining water out. There wasn't any water in the bilge when I did that before so the water had to be coming into the boat from the bottom of the boat somehow. Any ideas on what I should do to fix this? I am leaving again with a relief team to Joplin's tornado victims and then have another 2 week vacation coming to Utah. Bailing the boat to keep it from sinking it going to be a problem. Thank you for any suggestions!!! Click to expand

I was checking the bilge frequently so I don't think water was coming from the hull. I think your guess that it was coming from the cockpit was correct. I will get help to pull the boat out so I can finish draining the bilge. Is there a different drain plug that might work in the cockpit? May need to buy a bilge pump. Thanks again for all your advice. I really appreciate this.

powdermoose said: I was checking the bilge frequently so I don't think water was coming from the hull. I think your guess that it was coming from the cockpit was correct. I will get help to pull the boat out so I can finish draining the bilge. Is there a different drain plug that might work in the cockpit? May need to buy a bilge pump. Thanks again for all your advice. I really appreciate this. Click to expand

I finally got brave enough to pull the drain plug in the cockpit and it worked great. It filled up only the well just like your picture. YEAH. It looks like the problem is fixed since I don't see any water coming into the bilge. I will leave the tent tarp over the boom, keep the cockpit plug out until I sail it, pull the transom if it can't keep up with a heavy rain, and check out your suggestions for a backup bailing system (just have been using a bucket, cup and sponge). I am thankful for both of you.... your pictures and advice!!! Blessings, Sandi

I'm happy that everything worked out OK for you Sandi. Have a great summer! Smooth Sailing! Joe

Sandi, I think the JAVELIN has a pair of inspection/bailing ports near the forward end of the cockpit? My DS II has them and it is not unheard of for water to seep in around the perimeter of the frame if rainwater builds up in a rainstorm, a bead of silicone sealant under the frames will help, the ports are held in with sheetmetal screws and are not hard to remove to rebed. Also, the original ports did not have a gasket in the plug. I replaced mine (they are a standard 4" screw-in port, Beckson is one name brand) since the caps were broken (leaks!) and the new ports have coarser threads making them easier to open/close. I did have to use a rasp to slightly enlarge the holes in the cockpit sole to fit the ever so slightly larger frames of hte Beskson ports, coarse sandpaper will work also. If you had 4" of rainwater in the cockpit I suspect it also may have leaked into the bilge around the hatch to the bow compartment.

Sunbird22358 said: Sandi, I think the JAVELIN has a pair of inspection/bailing ports near the forward end of the cockpit? My DS II has them and it is not unheard of for water to seep in around the perimeter of the frame if rainwater builds up in a rainstorm, a bead of silicone sealant under the frames will help, the ports are held in with sheetmetal screws and are not hard to remove to rebed. Also, the original ports did not have a gasket in the plug. I replaced mine (they are a standard 4" screw-in port, Beckson is one name brand) since the caps were broken (leaks!) and the new ports have coarser threads making them easier to open/close. I did have to use a rasp to slightly enlarge the holes in the cockpit sole to fit the ever so slightly larger frames of hte Beskson ports, coarse sandpaper will work also. If you had 4" of rainwater in the cockpit I suspect it also may have leaked into the bilge around the hatch to the bow compartment. Click to expand

Lafayette88

Sunbird22358 said: How "old" is this JAVELIN? I am basing my answer on this being a 1973 or later model. The (1973-85) Javelins and the DS II have the same self-bailer. Joe, there are no hoses, the bailer goes right thru hull and cockpit sole, water collects i na shallow well at aft end of cockpit and there is a "gutter" along each side of the cockpit to direct water aft to that well. The boat will "self-bail" when under way, suction is created by the water moving past the backwards "scoop" of the bailer. This is also the same bailer used on the SUNFISH sailboat. Anyway, yes, the bailer does let in a bit of water at rest. But if yo uget rain it will drain out once the water builds up higher than the outside waterline, ideally..... there is a little plastic ball inside the bailer that is SUPPOSED to seal the drain against water entry.......then if you get water inside the cockpit (due to rain, spray, or taking water over the lee rail) the water inside will pus hthe ball down enough to allow the inside water to drain. Yeh, Right! That is how it is supposed to work!! In reality.......well, a bit of water usually does flow in through the bailer at rest..... in 15 years of owning my DS II, I've yet to find a way to get the bailer to work as it should. So, I gave up...... the plug in the bailer is left open while moored to allow rai nto drain out, and while sailing or otherwise using the boat....I insert the plug to keep water out (easy enough to pull the plug out of the bailer if I took water over the side.) If I leave the boat in the water with a lot of rain forcast (and I mean a LOT!!) I usually remove the 1" plug that is higher up on the transom.......that way the water should never get higher than than that (yes ,water does flow in through that too..... but still better than depending on that little 5/8" hole i nthe bailer for draining a major amount of water. Click to expand

Does any company, organization or website sell the "javelin self-bailing system" or its parts (ball and pin) that was mounted on the DS II?

D&R Marine www.drmarine.com or (508) 644-3001 has it in stock and avaialble online. Price is about $45 complete. If you call Rudy Nickerson (don't bother with e-mail, phone call is best!) he may be able to sell you just the parts that you need, but it is most likely worth replacing the entire unit anyway. Wait, is that Fairhaven, MA? Call Rudy to make sure he will be open, and if so... drive up there on a Saturday morning, Rudy is open for walk-in customers almost every Saturday from 9-12. He is on Water St. in Assonet (Freetown). It is only a 15-20 minute ride for you. That way you save the shipping cost.

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