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Jackstays and Jacklines- The options for the cruising sailor

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NEWSLETTERS
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Jackstays and Jacklines- The options for the cruising sailor

Jacklines and jackstays - important things to know

Published date: august 11 2023.

Jacklines or jackstays are lines attached to the fore and aft of your boat, allowing your crew to clip on via their safety tether and will prevent ‘jolly jack tar’ (the old name for a sailor) from falling overboard. These lines are vital in heavy conditions, especially, when you require a crew member to go forward to the mast or bow.

Whilst the basics of these lines and clips are apparent to the majority of skippers, there are a few considerations to ensure that these safety lines operate properly. Firstly, you should ensure that the jacklines should have limited ability to stretch and should be of sufficient strength for the purpose. Many sailors and event organisers favour webbing over wire jacklines with the webbing in a contrasting colour and fabricated so that it does not roll underfoot.

Earlier, inferior webbing jacklines were more prone to chafing and sun/UV damage than wire. However, modern webbing materials are more chafe-resistant and fabricated to avoid problems with vibration and wear.

Like, for example, Wichard jacklines are easily identifiable at night thanks to the retro-reflective strip incorporated into the webbing. Its anti-abrasion sides also prevent it from premature wear. This short video from Wichard shows the jacklines available in our shop and the installation process on your boat:

The lines should be properly secured fore and aft so that they can readily manage the force of a person falling. Wherever feasible, the lines should be placed close to the centre line of the boat, so that the safety line will prevent a sailor from falling into the water.

Image credit - SV Ragtop

If the line were too close to the edge of the boat and the tether too long, a crew member could fall into the water still attached to the boat and they could drown in such circumstances. It is therefore essential to consider this aspect when placing your jacklines and choosing the safety lines for your crew.

Image credit - Wichard Marine

It is always preferable that crew members should use a double safety line, and where they have to unclip and clip on again, say when traversing the boat, crew members should be taught that they should always clip on the second clip prior to releasing the original one. A crew member should be able to clip onto a jackline on leaving the safety of the cabin and unclip as they return, to ensure their safety.

Image credit - YouTube

Within the cockpit and other working areas of your yacht, you should also have clipping-on points for the crew members to attach their tethers to, and these should accommodate up to two-thirds of your crew without relying on the jackstays. And always remember, even in the lightest of conditions, when you might not be clipped on, you should always have one hand for you and one hand for the boat! To see our range of safety equipment, including modern purpose-fabricated jacklines and safety tethers, please click below:

If you have any questions regarding this article or want expert, impartial advice on any aspect of your boat’s equipment, please feel free to contact Upffront by email, at [email protected]

Dave Proctor

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Jackstays (deck safety lines): Understanding their Construction and Usage

Whether you call them Guardlines, Safety Lines, Jackstays or Lifelines, these deck lines and harness tethers are essential pieces of equipment on any boat. This latest article from Jimmy Green explores construction and essential items of knowledge.

Published 4 months ago

Jackstays (Lifelines): What you Need to Know

Jackstays, also known as Lifelines, are laid along the deck,and fixed at either end so you can clip onto them with your harness tether.

The terminology around these deck lines and harness tethers, along with the guard wires that pass around the stanchions that make up your guard rails, can be a little confusing because sailors can use either or even all three to mean the same thing. To clarify what I will be writing about and hopefully to avoid any confusion, I have listed them below under what we call them here in the UK, but I have included some other popular alternative terms as well:

webbing, wire or rope laid along the deck for clipping to with your personal tether – also known as jacklines, lifelines or deck safety lines.

Guard Wires:

wire or fibre running between your stanchions to form a balustrade around the deck – also known as lifelines or guard rails.

Safety Lines:

the tether you use to attach yourself from your harness (which is commonly integral to your lifejacket) to the yacht – also known as safety tethers, harness lines or lifelines.

What can Jackstays be made up with?

Jackstays can be made from rope, wire, or webbing, but webbing is by far the most popular solution nowadays. Traditionally, 1×19 stainless steel wire, either plain or PVC coated, was the most common method. Webbing is now the go-to solution. Recently, 100% Dyneema 12 strand rope has become more popular.

The Advantages of Webbing

High Tenacity Polyester Webbing:

lies flat on the deck, so it does not move or roll under your feet.
will not mark or damage your deck.
is kind to the hands.
is ergonomic when it comes to clipping on with your safety tether hook.
will break your fall because it has some ‘give.’
can be attached with shackles, lanyards, a webbing three-bar slide (or two for peace of mind) a purpose-designed and manufactured jackstay webbing adjuster or a cow hitch (at one end only).
Jackstay webbing is high denier, high tenacity webbing and should have a minimum break load of 2000kg. This compares favourably with stainless steel wire.
lasts well in the sun if you specify high denier Polyester, and not Polyamid (nylon)
resists chafing exceptionally well while on deck, although you should take care to route the jackstays so that they do not rub against any potential wear points – some ‘fluffing’ of the edge fibres through natural wear and tear is normal.
can be visually checked for signs of UV or physical damage.

A note here on UV endurance – the strength of the webbing depends on the duration of exposure and the strength of the sun’s harmful rays.

The deterioration will be gradual, and the first indications will be fading of any dye (colour) It is good practice to stow webbing jackstays below when the yacht is not at sea to maximise their working life.

The Disadvantages of Webbing

There are only a few downsides, but webbing:

will not last as long in the sun as stainless steel wire, although it will fare a little better than Dyneema.
is more susceptible to damage or wear and tear than wire.
requires more frequent adjustment to maintain the correct tension.

The Alternatives to Webbing

Stainless Steel 1×19 Wire

Plain, uncovered 1×19 has a smooth finish, but 4mm only has a breaking strain of 1400kg which is significantly lower than a typical harness safety line, so the diameter should be a minimum 5mm.
Plain wire has excellent abrasion and UV resistance, although PVC will deteriorate in the sun.
If you prefer PVC coated stainless steel wire, this will increase the diameter from 5mm to 8 or 9mm which is then a significant roll hazard.
may require clunky terminations.

12 Strand 100% Dyneema

is extremely strong e.g. 5mm diameter Hampidjan’s DynIce Dux has a spliced break load of 4300kg.
is yielding underfoot (squashy )
lasts well in the sun and can be treated with Polyurethane to enhance UV resistance.
Can be sleeved with polyester tube webbing to protect it from the sun and further reduce any chances of rolling underfoot.
can be spliced onboard if you trust your own handiwork.
offers a variety of different splicing terminations for adjustment or cow hitch at one end.

Strength Comparison for Stainless Steel Wire, High Tenacity Jackstay Webbing and 12 Strand 100% Hollowbraid Dyneema

4mm 1 x 19 stainless steel wire, MBL = 1400kg
5mm 1 x 19 stainless steel wire, MBL = 2190kg
High Tenacity Polyester Jackstay Webbing, MBL = minimum 2100kg, can be up to 3000kg
5mm LIROS D Pro Static = 2450kg
5mm Hampidjan DynIce Dux 4800kg (strength after professional splicing = 4300kg)

Jackstay Fitting Considerations

Safe attachment and detachment.

It is essential that your jackstays are set up so that you can clip on before you leave the cockpit and be able to venture as far forward (and aft) as possible without having to unclip, even temporarily.

The jackstays will need to run past the cockpit adjacent to the coaming so that they are within safe reach. They also need to avoid any obstacles on deck such as opening hatches, running rigging lines and cleats, passing inside the shrouds to provide a clear pathway to the foredeck (or after deck)

Overboard Casualty Prevention

The jackstays should be fitted as near to the centre line as practicable to minimise the risk of falling over the rail while still attached, typically following the curve of the coach roof, although this may still be too near the guardrail for comfort.

Jackstays routed too close to the gunwale or toe rail may not prevent a fall into the water, especially on the lower, leeward side with the yacht heeled over.

If the jackstay line is near enough to fall over the rail while clipped on, it will be well worth considering shorter tethers to limit the distance.

There are three hook versions of the safety line tether which typically have one shorter tail. Three hooks are essential for staying clipped on when transferring from the jackstay to another fitting.

N.B. The MAIB Safety Bulletin 1/2018 states that jackstays should be routed to minimise the possibility of a safety clip hook getting trapped underneath any deck fitting, and mooring cleats in particular, see the quote below:

“SAFETY LESSON – To prevent the strength of a safety harness tether from becoming compromised in service due to lateral loading on the tether hook, the method used to anchor the end of the tether to the vessel should be arranged to ensure that the tether hook cannot become entangled with deck fittings or other equipment.”

Measuring your Jackstays

All jackstays should be fitted so that there is a degree of lift in the centre of the line before any significant load is applied. The correct amount of lift will depend on the stretch properties of the jackstay material and should be proportional to the overall length of the jackstay.

Wire does not stretch at all, so wire jackstays should be fitted with some slack to create the requisite lift. The strain on the end fittings caused by a heavy casualty falling against the middle of a bar-tight wire with their full body weight could be dangerously excessive.

Conversely, polyester webbing does stretch, so the jackstays should always be kept taut to prevent you from falling too far, which may require regular adjustment. Pulling your safety tether tight against the jackstay may add some control to your balance in wavy conditions.

Dyneema has very low stretch, a bit more than wire but not as much as Polyester webbing, so the same principles apply as wire.

A jackstay that is too taut may leave no gap underneath, rendering the clipping on of the safety hook trickier than it needs to be.

Jackstay Attachment Point Selection

Jackstay strong points should be selected according to the principles mentioned above in the sections on Fitting Considerations and Overboard Casualty Prevention If there are no suitable fixing points where they are needed, it is not advisable to make do with existing fittings that do not adhere to the principles mentioned above, it will be preferable to fit some purpose-designed U Bolts or Eye Bolts in the correct position.

Webbing Jackstay Terminations

Making do with machine stitching not designed for the purpose, or even sewing your own webbing, is not advisable if you want to feel confident about venturing out from the safety of the cockpit in rough weather.

Once you have found a reputable source for the webbing and the stitching, there are several different options for sewing loops in the ends:

Small Sewn Loop – for attaching to a shackle
Small Sewn Loop with a stainless Ring, D Ring, or Triangle included
Large Sewn Loop – with room for multiple turns of a lanyard
Twisted Sewn Loop – for creating the perfect cow hitch

Twisted loops are for creating a cow hitch attachment in one end – pass the other end around a strongpoint and back through the twisted loop – allowing the hitch to sit comfortably around the deck fitting.

Of course, you could simply take a length of webbing and add a specially designed jackstay adjuster at each end. Makefast UK and Wichard France manufacture them, to name a couple.

Webbing Jackstay Adjustment

Jackstays can be attached to strong points such as Deck U Bolts with extra-wide shackles, but they are not such a clever idea at both ends because that will make the measuring critical and obviate any adjustment.

Lanyards at one end make the initial measuring, deployment, and adjustment more straightforward.

As an absolute minimum, the lanyard will require the amount of turns to ensure a break load comparable to the sewn webbing and the spliced rope.

Six Basic Steps to Specifying Your Jackstays

Do your research.
Settle on webbing, wire, or rope.
Establish the best endpoints and the most practicable route on deck.
Choose suitable terminations.
Decide how you want the ends finished and attached.
Measure carefully.

…………………………

About the Author

Jimmy Green Marine is a family-run business founded by brothers Alistair and Mike Green, based in the coastal fishing village of Beer in East Devon. The company started as a Mail Order Chandlers in 1981 and has continually evolved from attending Boat Shows and Boat Jumbles in the early days to now trading globally online.

Four decades of exporting experience combined with an intuitive website shipping calculator means that you can have your order delivered to your home, business or direct to your yacht anywhere worldwide.

Their flagship, innovative Custom Build website system provides an instant quote for all your professionally spliced and finished wire and rope rigging, mooring and anchoring solutions.

You can access this online from wherever you can get an internet connection, however remote.

Alistair Green is an experienced sailor and rigger with over 40 years of experience in the marine industry. He is passionate about providing his customers with the best possible products and services and is always looking for new ways to improve the business.

If you are looking for a reliable and experienced marine supplier, then Jimmy Green Marine is the perfect choice.

Visit their website today to learn more about their products and services.

JimmyGreen.com

Offshore sailing basic equipment: Jackstay

November 10th, 2021
Sailing Accessories

With my second interview on solo sailing the Atlantic Ocean in a small boat finished (read the article with Johannes Erdmann, who crossed the big ocean in a 27 feet boat here ) I am again thankful for such a rich insight. And another hint how to improve my sailing equipment. Whilst Hinner Weiler, with whom I´ve had the first interview was pointing my interest towards sleep management – bringing me to buy a mechanical egg-timer – Johannes focused on the safety aspect in offshore sailing. And right so! As “ordinary” as it may sound for skippers, he directed my attention towards an otherwise neglected detail.

See, when I sail, I usually wear a life jacket , of course, and when I sail at night I do attach myself to a tether that in itself is connected to the boat. Mostly I fasten the belt to a stanchion or the reeling. Johannes was talking a different setup and I believe that is the one I will choose and copy for my own #atlanticloop: for light and medium weather/wave pattern I will skip wearing the heavy weight life jacket and put on a life belt instead. That takes off weight of my shoulders and will assure a much more nimble walk around on deck.

Common sense: Be safe!

Instead of attaching the life belt/tether to a stanchion or reeling, I will attach a proper jackstay on the deck of my boat. This allows for even more freedom and range of operation by skipping the annoying stop at every stanchion to switch reeling, for example when I have to go to the foredeck. I ordered a jackstay which was delivered just one day before I left for Berlin Boat Show starting this week. Being lucky that momentarily the boat market is literally sold out, we decided to have my own First 27 SE on display so I can join my professional occupation with my private project and fit the new jackstay.

The one I chose is made of a very thick and heavy quality. It has a CE and ISO-certificate and upon checking I would say I is able to easily hold my weight when going MOB. I am a very safety-focused skipper anywayand would never ever risk my life for sailing, but in this case – sailing alone – knowing that there is no First Officer, no sailing mate and in this no second brain to check for my wellbeing too, I don´t want to make savings on my safety. The jackstay I bought came with an 80 Euros price tag.

For me this is a very emotional issue: I am a father of the two best boys in the world and I would be hilariously stupid to risk seeing them growing up. Very vividly I remember the most tragic fate of Chinese pro sailor Guo Chuan who was lost at sea: I may be one of the few last people to interview this fine, enormously sympathetic skipper before he left for his Transpac record attempt in a trimaran – all that was found of him was a severed tether … Well, safety first. Always! So let´s see how to attach.

Fitting the jackstay properly

The jackstay I bought has a length of 12 metres, that is 3 metres more than my boat is long. The Jackstay comes with metal clamps and can be adjusted to the length desired. There is a heavy loop on one end which can einter be fitted throught the mooring clamp or – as I tried to mock here – through the Dyneema-loop for my removable baby-stay for the heavy jib.

The color of my jackstay is black, matching neatly the solar panels I am going to fit to the boat this winter. The safety belt can then led aft: Either to the aft mooring clamp or to a loop at the desired position. I figured that most of the time when in the cockpit I can resume attaching my safety tether to the reeling and that I will only use the jackstay when proceeding to go to the bow or at the mast, so II guess I´ll let it end right where the Gennaker sheet blocks are attached.

Next step is the reduction of the length, which can be done by myself in simply cutting the rope, melting its end with a lighter or, which I prefer, having a sailmaker doing the job and properly sewing the end instead of just melting it down. In this, the sailmaker can overlap the short end and have a properly sealed fitting.

Revisiting the safety concept of my boat

I am thankful to Johannes who brought me to this idea. With the right product found I instantly ordered the second jackstay – of course I will fit one to either side of the boat – and upon end of the boat show find a sailmaker to make the adjustments I have in mind. A proper life belt is ordered too and underway and I am happy for this new adding to my equipment list. This is a good thing!

Next up will be a complete new setup for the #atlanticloop safety equipment: The new EPIRP I bought will receive its right place (not remain in the deep of the navigation-equipment box , I am currently looking for a lightweight life raft, the fire extinguisher will also receive a fixed place and a basic leak repair set will also be purchased. I am thinking of attending a SOLAS Survival at Sea training, re-named World Sailing course, I guess. What do you think about this? Looking forward to your comments.

Also interesting to read:

The safety concept of my (first) yacht

Practicing the MOB code of conduct

Life jacket lessons for sailing kids

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Lifejackets Harnesses

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World sailing offers fairly explicit expectations regarding jackstays. And PS offer its own additional advice, including one that recommends jacklines ideally be installed so that a sailor who is clipped in can’t go over the side (see Jackline Installation Advice , November 2015). This is not always possible, especially on monohulls. In most cases, he chest-high lifeline on Mahina Tiare will keep above water the head of the person who is overboard.

Your tether won’t tangle your feet as you go forward, since it is attached above, not on deck

You have a line to grab if the boat suddenly lurches or falls off a wave

The clunking tether shackle along the deck won’t annoy crew members trying to sleep below or damage the boat.

It’s quick and easy to rig and remove.

The Aladdin cleat also makes an excellent place to secure flag halyards to

Beware of tying into a stern or bow pulpit. The stern pulpits on many cruising boats will fail under less than 1,200 pound loads of load, less than half the minimum advised for jackline padeyes (4,500 pounds). See “ USNA Lifeline Test Reveals Weak Spots,” PS September 2012 for the full report.

If your upper shrouds are located quite a way inboard, you’ll likely have to go forward on the outside of the high lifeline, which can add risk in some scenarios.

When clipping in, your center of gravity is higher and you are less stable.

1. We use a truckers hitch to tension the lifeline where it attaches to the pushpit stanchions. Virtually all of the load on the lifelines is transferred to these pushpits. Past tests have shown that the railings on some boats are not as strong as they need to be to withstand the dynamic loads of a human bodies hurled against a lifeline (minimum 4,500 pounds), so you will want to make sure yours is up to the task. Backing plates deserve a close look (see How Big Does a Backing Plate Need to Be? (August 2016).

2. We use a simple clamp-on Aladdin cleat (aka flag cleat) to guide the lifeline past the shrouds.

3. CS Johnson marine makes a stainless steel guide especially designed for attaching to a shroud.

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Setting Jackstay Tension – Dave Porter Provides Insight

Brian Brickler and Dave Porter, Lake Beulah Yacht Club, discuss Aha! Insights on setting jackstay tension for the thicker jackstays on a C-Scow with SailZing.com.

Loose Jackstays – Watch for Mast “Pulse”

SailZing.com’s Rob Hudson de Tarnowsky was lucky to come across this insight being shared at the 2017 ILYA Championship Regatta hosted by the Lake Geneva Yacht Club and Inland Lake Yachting Association. Lake Geneva, WI

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Practical Boat Owner

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Ben Meakins
October 16, 2009

A tightly stretched wire to hold the edge of an awning or a sail, or along which something may slide. If the Coastguard ever rescue you by breeches buoy they will haul you along a tautjackstay. But the most immediate use of ajackstay for the average boat-owner is when stretched along the deck as a lifeline for his personal harness.

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Wichard Lyf’Safe Jackstays Pair for Safe and Secure Deck Travel

£ 127.20 – £ 201.60

Perfect for sailing enthusiasts, these jackstays are easy to install and adjust.

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Introducing the Wichard Lyf’Safe Jackstays, the perfect safety solution for any sailor. These jackstays are designed to provide extra security and safety while out at sea. Made from high-quality materials, they are both strong and durable. The unique design of the Lyf’Safe Jackstays allows for easy installation, and the double locking system ensures maximum security. The jackstays are adjustable to fit different boats, making them a versatile addition to any sailor’s gear. With a pair of Wichard Lyf’Safe Jackstays, you can enjoy peace of mind knowing that you and your crew are safe and secure.

Wichards Lyf’safe jacklines are supplied as a pair and are adjustable allowing you to tailor them to fit your vessel exactly. They can be easily fitted to most deck fastenings (pad eyes, pulpit/push pit, cleats etc) without the need for additional components such as shackles and the casing around the locking adjuster prevents any accidental adjustment or release of the webbing.

Either sailing solo or fully crewed, moving around the side decks and working on the foredeck in most conditions requires extra attention and safety precautions.

The webbing itself has anti-abrasion edges to prevent early wear and fraying and it has a reflective stripe woven into it so it can be easily identified at night.

The forged stainless steel adjusters are encapsulated by a soft elastomer photoluminescent casing which isolates them from the deck, eliminating noise and vibrations.

Specifications :

Webbing width: 25mm
Stitching Reisitance: 3 tons

Kit Includes the following:

2 reflective polyester webbings with loop on one end
2 stainless steel adjusters
2 photoluminescent adjuster casings
8 screws for securing adjuster casings
1 installation manual

Available in 4 lengths;

• 8.5m, 11m, 14m and 16m

The webbing can be cut down to make shorter lengths if required.

Weight	2.530 kg
Dimensions	44 × 29 × 6 cm
Size	8.5M, 11M, 14M, 16M
Brand	Wichard

2 reviews for Wichard Lyf’Safe Jackstays Pair for Safe and Secure Deck Travel

Alan (verified owner) – 08/02/2023

Paul (verified owner) – 14/03/2023

I bought this to replace the original Wichard jackstays. Safety on board cannot be compromised!

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Yachting Monthly

Digital edition

Singlehanded sailing for the first time

Toby Heppell
August 31, 2020

Toby Heppell looks at the art of singlehanded sailing and considers what constitutes good seamanship when it’s only you on board

Sailing alone gives you freedom to set off when you want, but requires a different approach. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

Singlehanded sailing is often something we associate with feats of adventure and endurance, bringing forward ideas of the lone sailor heading off across oceans.

Setting off on a significant offshore voyage on your own is a truly specialist activity.

You are likely to experience sleep deprivation, the stresses of being alone for long periods of time and the possibility of facing inclement weather by yourself.

That may well not be for all of us.

Editor Theo Stocker headed out on his Sadler 29 to put the advice into practice. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

But closer to home, many of us are likely to go singlehanded sailing – be it regularly or just the odd occasion, a short coastal trip or a longer voyage, or when a crew member is laid low by seasickness or other ailment.

You might end up without a crew and face the choice of leaving the boat in a distant port or taking a fair wind home alone.

You may be a couple sailing with a young child that needs constant attention, leaving the skipper to handle the boat alone.

Understanding the skills and kit necessary to successfully and safely sail by yourself is, if not an essential skill, certainly a useful string to the bow.

Freedom and responsibility of singlehanded sailing

‘Sailing solo there is the dependence on oneself that is really appealing,’ say Mervyn Wheatley, veteran of many solo ocean races and trips.

Toby Heppell got his first boat aged four and grew up sailing on the East Coast. He has been a sailing journalist for over 15 years. Credit: Richard Langdon

‘A great deal of that appeal is that you know if something goes wrong then you are going to have to sort it out yourself.

As a solo skipper, you are master of your own destiny, entirely free to run the boat exactly as you wish.

With that comes total responsibility for everything on board: food, maintenance, sail choice, pilotage – it’s all up to you.

‘There’s an unmistakable excitement in slipping the lines and knowing that success or failure is entirely down to your resourcefulness and seamanship,’ says Wheatley.

‘Completing a solo passage satisfies like nothing else. But with that responsibility comes a significant reliance on making sure everything onboard and yourself are up to the challenge.’

In this article, I’m going to look at the various aspects you should consider to make sure you’re ready for solo coastal daysails, rather than long-distance offshore singlehanded sailing, when considerations around sleep management become more vital.

Is your boat up to singlehanded sailing?

Though the recent trend has been for ever-bigger boats, you need to be fairly agile to singlehand a boat much over 35ft, or have invested some serious money into automation.

Typically at about 35ft you are reaching the point where sail size is a big factor in terms of managing reefing and winching.

Setting up your boat so that you have to leave the helm as little as possible is important.

If you do have to leave the helm when sailing, doing so on starboard tack, keeping a good lookout and setting an autopilot will keep you in control.

A singlehanded sailor clipper on to his yacht

Clip on: Make sure your jackstays are in good condition, and let you work on deck effectively. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

A furling headsail saves foredeck work and in-mast or in-boom furling makes mainsail reefing simpler, and the slight loss of performance may not be important to you.

A slab-reefed main can take longer to reef but lines led aft make it easier.

Crucially, if you drop it as you are coming in to harbour, the main will block your vision forward unless you have lazy jacks.

Fortunately, these are easy to add if you don’t have them already, and a stack-pack sail bag makes stowing the sail even easier.

Leaving the cockpit for any reason is among the highest risks for solo sailors, particularly as handling sails at the start and end of your passage is likely to be close to harbour with more traffic around.

Lines aft: Leading lines aft helps avoid trips forward out of the cockpit. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

Leading lines back to the cockpit will make life easier, with the caveat that any friction points, particularly in single-line reefing systems, need addressing.

Taking the main halyard back to the cockpit at the very least is a must.

When it comes to mooring by yourself, ‘midships cleats are often underrated and underused, but they are invaluable,’ says ex-Navy navigator and cruising author Andy du Port.

‘With only two of us on board, we have become adept at lassoing pontoon cleats from amidships and hauling in reasonably firmly before the boat has a chance to start drifting off.’

In terms of safety, eliminating risk of going overboard is key and staying clipped on is a good way to do that.

Make sure your jackstays can be reached from inside the cockpit, and let you get to the mast or other working areas on deck.

Webbing rather than wire won’t roll underfoot.

Sensible cockpit strong points should let you move from helm to winches, halyards, instruments, and companionway without unclipping.

Optimal cockpit layout for singlehanded sailing

Whether you have a wheel or tiller, the layout of the cockpit is important as to whether it works well for singlehanded sailing.

It is worth noting, however, that a tiller can be slotted between your legs when hoisting sails or handling lines.

The ability to see a chartplotter on deck is important, as you will need to do much of your navigation from the helm and modern chart plotters make this easier.

Particularly in coastal waters, you will want to spend as little time as possible down below at the chart table so you can keep a proper lookout.

Navigation equipment fitted on the deck of a Sadler 29

Navigation: A setup that works on deck reduces time spent below. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

Effective self-steering is essential for singlehanded sailing.

An autopilot is excellent under power as the engine keeps the batteries topped up but under sail, if you haven’t trimmed correctly for a neutral helm, the autopilot has to work hard and will draw more power.

Modern units draw 2-3A but older models can draw double that.

For this reason, an easily visible battery monitor will help.

Some autopilots include a remote control you can wear on your wrist or on a lanyard to alter course.

For smaller boats or longer passages, a windvane is effective on every point of sail and draws no power.

A midships cleat on the deck of a Sadler 29

Midships: A midships cleat is a big help if you don’t have crew to help. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

However, they are vulnerable in port, and struggle under motor as prop wash confuses the servo blade.

‘If I am in coastal waters then I use an autopilot as it’s easier,’ says Wheatley.

‘If I’m nipping across the Channel then I know I can plug into the mains on the other side. I use a windvane on ocean passages.’

Ensure essentials such as handbearing compass, sunscreen and water are in place before you slip lines. Finally, get to know your boat well. A refresher on the key parts of each of your main systems might be a good idea before a singlehanded passage.

Physical limitations

Singlehanded sailing requires a reasonable level of physical fitness.

Every manoeuvre is slower and more arduous when sailing alone, so you’ll need the endurance to handle longer passages.

It’s really easy to become dehydrated, so keep a bottle of water in the cockpit, preferably in a pocket along with a few biscuits to keep your energy up and help you deal with tiredness.

Yachting Monthly editor Theo Stocker helming a Sadler 29

The demands of helming, sail handling, manoeuvring, navigation and other tasks on board while singlehanded sailing should not be underestimated. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

‘If you’re feeling a bit tired to begin with, if you’re going to sail a long way that is only going to get worse and will probably guarantee seasickness,’ explains ocean sailing legend, Pete Goss.

‘Sometimes if you just take it a bit easy at the start of a longer passage that makes things easier for the rest of the trip.

‘Plan to only go a short distance before possibly anchoring up for some hours, to make sure you get some rest and you have properly got your sea legs.

‘That can be the difference between a great solo passage and a terrible one where you are tired and sick from the off.

‘No-one functions well in that sort of condition.’

A skipper lighting a gas cooker on a boat to make a cup of tea

Nutrition: Keep yourself rested and fuelled. Heave to and put the kettle on for a break. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

‘Eating is a really important thing to focus on too,’ says record breaking skipper Dee Caffari.

‘It is really just getting the balance right and realising the effect hunger has on your body and mind.

‘I did a lot of work with sports psychologists before doing big races to understand myself a lot more.

‘Much of it was focused on understanding when I am tired and when I am hungry.

‘There are moments now when I realise I just need to eat and take a 10-minute break, and then I am a totally different person.

‘Clearly not everyone has access to a psychologist, but taking the time to notice the signs of sleep deprivation and hunger and what they mean in terms of how you function is crucial.’

Solo safety

Singlehanded sailing should be approached much like sailing at night in terms of safety.

You want everything you might need ready to hand, and to take a much more cautious approach.

A solo skipper navigating in the cockpit with a paper chart

Make sure you can navigate from the cockpit, whether on a plotter or paper chart in a plastic wallet. Time below is time not keeping a look out. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

Going overboard is not a good idea at the best of times and becomes even more serious when solo.

Everything should be done to minimise this risk.

While much of this is a matter of attitude, and planning each manoeuvre to predict the main dangers, having the right equipment in the right place will also help.

Navigation and communication

Being able to manage your boat, and all of the key navigation and safety systems from the cockpit is the key.

Think through your navigation and communications equipment.

A chart plotter and a VHF radio handset on deck will save the need to go below.

A mobile phone showing details of the SafeTrx app

Shore contact: Register your vessel details with the Coastguard on the SafeTrx app, then let a shore contact know your ETA. This can also be done with the app. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

Should you need to make a distress call, having a radio that is set up with a DSC button will make things easier.

Modern handheld VHF radios are capable of this, as are command microphones for fixed VHF sets, which also have the advantage of a longer range.

It is worth having binoculars, flares, and a grab bag easily to hand too.

AIS and radar

Making your boat more visible to others will help make up some of the potential shortfall of only having one set of eyes to keep lookout.

A properly working AIS unit, radar reflector, and potentially a radar enhancer and alarm, will help alert you to approaching vessels and you to them.

On board equipment

Though they are key bits of safety kit on any yacht, the lifebelt and danbuoy aren’t so important for singlehanded sailing, as there will be no-one left to throw them after you if you did go overboard.

But the rest of the boat’s standard equipment should be located, inspected and brought up to spec before a solo passage if they aren’t already.

These include the liferaft, fire extinguishers, bilge pump, flares, first aid kit and so on.

Man overboard

Falling overboard, serious enough with a fully-crewed boat, becomes even more unpalatable solo.

Everything should be done to avoid this possibility.

Clearly, a mindset that is consistently aware of the risk is your biggest asset, and will help you avoid doing things that could leave you exposed.

MOB: You’re most likely to fall overboard when mooring. Make sure your bathing ladder can be operated from the water or rig an emergency one. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

Keeping clipped can serve as a reminder of this, and goes some way to keeping you connected to the boat, though being overboard on the end of the tether may be little better than being overboard without one.

‘I do wear a tether often,’ says Wheatley.

‘But the thing to remember about going over the side is that a tether does keep you there, but if you go over by yourself and you are tethered on, then you are not going to get back onboard.

‘However, it is much easier to find a boat than a body so I take the view that I wear one to make it easier for my family should I go over.’

Emergency ladder

Often the biggest risk of going overboard for a singlehander is actually in harbour.

Picking up the mooring buoy, or even stepping across from pontoon to boat has often led to an unexpected dunking.

This can rapidly become serious if you are wearing heavy clothing or the water is anything less than balmy, and do not have an easy means of climbing out.

For this reason many solo sailors carry an emergency ladder with a line that can be reached from the water.

In this scenario, a lifejacket will help you float during the initial phase of cold shock, and should therefore be worn, not just when things start to get ‘a bit lively’ out at sea.

Modern lifejackets are far more impressive than their early counterparts.

Lightweight, slimline, and comfortable to wear, the hood helps prevent secondary drowning and the bright colour and light makes it easier to locate you by day and night.

Crucially, technology has moved on so that it is possible to carry AIS and satellite distress beacons in or on the lifejacket.

Along with a VHF radio in your pocket, this is likely to be your only chance of calling for help at sea should the worst happen.

It should therefore be a serious consideration for anyone sailing solo, however far they venture.

Passage plan

As a solo sailor, it is a good idea to have a shore contact who you keep updated with your plans and your estimated time of arrival, and who knows to call the Coastguard with the details of your boat if you become overdue.

A grab bag and other gear on the deck of a Sadler 29

Cockpit kit: Gear close to hand should include binoculars, compass, knife and PLB, as well as grab bag, food and drink. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

This can be supplemented by having your details up to date on the RYA SafeTrx app , which the Coastguard now uses as its leisure vessel registry, as well as being an active passage-tracking tool.

Even if the alarm is raised, hopefully a phone or VHF radio call will quickly establish all is well.

Tangled ropes

It’s easy for piles of rope to mount up when there’s no second pair of hands to help.

Keep up with tidying lines away, so you don’t end up with a tangled mess that could jam just when you need a halyard to run free.

With a little patience, singlehanded sailing is rarely more difficult than sailing two- or three-up for the experienced skipper.

Manoeuvres take longer to complete and you are likely to spend more time in the cockpit than you otherwise might, but your approach to most situations will be broadly the same.

Where things can get tricky is in slipping the lines and mooring.

A solo skipper on a deck of his yacht preparing for departure

Springing the stern out is fine with crew, but springing the bow out means you can handle lines without leaving the cockpit. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

The latter being all the worse for coming at the end of your passage and so your decision making is likely to be impaired through weariness.

Slipping the lines is clearly much easier if the wind is blowing you off the pontoon.

Here your midships cleat will come in handy as you can get yourself tight to the pontoon with this and then drop the bow line, before heading back to remove the stern line and finally slipping the midships line.

Do remember to have plenty of fenders fore and aft as the boat may pivot around the midships cleat, depending on wind and tide direction.

A solo skipper steering his tiller yacht with his knees

Multi-tasking: Tiller boats can be steered with your knees while coiling lines, but don’t get distracted. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

As ever, the process for leaving a windward berth can be trickier.

It is easier to spring off the bow first as you have cockpit access to your sternline.

So this is your best option if there is little to no tide, or the tide is coming from ahead.

If there is no tide running and the wind is blowing to onto your pontoon, then you will probably need to motor astern with the stern line firm to help bring the bow out.

Midships cleat: If you can get a midships line on, it will hold the boat to the pontoon while you sort the other lines. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

Once it moves clear of the pontoon you can motor ahead as you slip the sternline.

With the tide from astern, use a slipped bow spring.

With sufficient tide the engine does not have to be engaged; simply slip all the lines bar the bow spring, go to the foredeck, watch the stern come away from the pontoon, slip the spring and return to the cockpit.

Once you are in open water, set the engine slow ahead and engage the autopilot while you recover lines and fenders.

Lines can be coiled and fenders tidied away in the cockpit.

On the water

Before taking on any planned singlehanded sailing, your boat handling should be up to scratch, but even the best sailors will find their skills improving quickly from a bit of time on the water alone.

Thinking through manoeuvring into and out of marinas berths and moorings, and then practising this a few times can take away some of the stress of a solo trip.

Heaving to: Lash the helm and back the jib to give yourself a break, but get the boat balanced first. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

At sea you need to be able to heave-to or stop comfortably, as this will give you time to boil the kettle, tend to any problems, or even have a quick break.

Manoeuvres such as tacking or reefing can also be rehearsed: which lines are eased or hauled in first, and when to put the helm down will be particular to your boat, but can be practised.

Once you’re at sea, it is worth keeping manoeuvres to a minimum when possible, as they take time and energy, and incur an element of risk.

As beating will involve a heeled boat and some tacking, it is, by its very nature, the toughest point of sail.

Self-steering

Vane steering systems or an autopilot that can adjust the course to the wind shifts, will keep the boat steering effectively.

Some newer autopilots also have tacking and gybing functions, leaving you free to concentrate on trimming the sails.

An autopilot or self-steering is vital. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

An autopilot remote is also an option, giving you access to control from anywhere on the boat (usually worn on the wrist).

It’s also worth spending time on your passage planning and general theory.

Going below for five minutes to check when the tide turns or to find out what a specific light means will be five minutes that you’re not on deck keeping a lookout.

When coming in to harbour, start the engine relatively far out from your destination to give you time to douse sail and prepare yourself.

Lazyjacks prevent a dropped mainsail blowing off the boom and restricting visibility forward.

Rig your fenders and lines in open water where you have space to drift or motor slowly under autopilot.

If you do not yet know where you will be going it is well worth fendering port and starboard with stern and midships lines on both sides.

A Sadler 29 rigged with fenders entering Lymington harbour

Rig fenders and lines once you’re out of the waves, but before you enter confined waters. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

Most marinas will send someone to help you if you radio ahead and let them know that you are on your own, or others on the pontoon will normally be happy to catch a line, but you should be prepared to do things alone if needed.

Coming alongside a pontoon, the midships line is critical.

Position the tail so that it is easily picked up when you move forward from the helm.

Prepare bow and stern lines and bring the ends amidships so you can reach them from the pontoon.

A Sadler 29 coming alongside a pontoon in Lymington

Boat handling: Without someone to take the lines ashore, being able to get your boat stopped where you want it makes life much easier. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

Stop the boat dead with your midships cleat as close as possible to your selected pontoon cleat, and throw a lasso of rope over it – a skill well worth practising.

Sweat the line to bring the boat as close as you can.

You are then secure and have more time to take bow and stern lines across and adjust your position.

You can also use the midships line as a spring.

A skipper wearing a lifejacket throwing a line from a yacht

Stern line: Throw a coil of line from each hand to lasso a cleat at the stern. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

Once the line is made off, put the engine ahead with the helm towards the pontoon.

This will hold the boat snug alongside while you sort the other lines.

Lazy jacks: When dropping the main, lazyjacks help prevent the sail blocking the view and let you delay a trip on deck. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

This is harder if the wind is blowing off the pontoon; your boat handling has to be positive and accurate.

If coming alongside isn’t working, getting a line onto a cleat from the bow or stern will get you secure and give you time to warp the boat in.

A solo skipper putting on a midships line

Which line first? If the wind is offshore, the midships line is useful to get on first. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

If you don’t fancy it, consider picking up a swinging mooring or dropping the anchor until help is available or the conditions change.

The key to mooring alone is to be ready beforehand, in open water, and to have planned what order you will do things in.

Midships spring: Helm to the pontoon and forward gear will hold you alongside. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

This can be practised while you have crew by getting the boat to stop in her berth without relying on lines to take the boat’s way off.

It looks much better too!

Don’t get overpowered

Managing the amount of sail you have set before you become overpowered is more important when you are singlehanded sailing as it takes longer to reduce sail and you will have no extra pairs of hands if things get exciting.

If you know it’s going to be a windy sail, reef before you leave your mooring.

If you have a ramshorn for the tack reefing point, you may need a small piece of bungee to hold the cringle in place until you have hoisted the sail.

Reef earlier than you would with crew. It’ll save energy, reduce risk and reflect a more conservative approach. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

If you are already out on the water, reef early, before the wind increases too much.

Be conservative with how early you reef.

Before you tackle reefing the mainsail, furl away some of the headsail.

This will slow the boat, making the motion easier and reducing heel, so making reefing the main easier.

Having a more heavily reefed main, and using the genoa to fine-tune the sailing area with the furling line also makes changing gears singlehanded less arduous and avoids trips on deck before needing to shake out or take in the next reef.

A singlehanded sail clipped on to his yacht via a harness

Going forward to the mast, make sure you are clipped on. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

‘For short-handed crews, mainsails need to be quick to drop in an emergency and require no feeding when hoisting, to avoid unnecessary trips out of the cockpit,’ says Pip Hare .

‘Avoid using a main with a bolt rope, because when the sail is dropped it will not remain captive at the mast and can quickly become uncontrollable.’

Downwind, keeping the rig under control requires some forethought.

A main boom preventer should be used if you’re sailing deep downwind, but is precarious to rig at sea, so have this ready before you set off, or even rig one on each side.

Most singlehanders are likely to be reluctant to set coloured sails off the wind in all but the best conditions and using a headsail, poled out, is more likely.

Keep rope tails tidy when singlehanded sailing to prevent a dangerous tangle in the cockpit. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

To set your poled-out headsail, begin by furling it away while you ready a pole on the windward side with uphaul, downhaul and guy.

This will give you full control of the sail from the cockpit.

Once you are set up it is simply a case of unfurling the sail and trimming from the helm.

It’s an easy and easily manageable solution and can be furled away without dropping the pole.

Yellow bungee holding a sail in place on a yacht

If your reefing system has ramshorns, a piece of bungee can hold it in place while you go aft. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

It will be easiest to furl the sail before you gybe, then attend to changing over the pole before again unfurling.

Setting a spinnaker or cruising chute is a more long-winded process solo so should only be taken on if you have a long leg ahead of you and you are sailing in relatively traffic-free waters.

A cruising chute is simpler to set up than a spinnaker.

Rigging can be done with the headsail furled and hoisted in its snuffer.

You’ll probably need to be on the foredeck to raise the snuffer, so make sure you are secure before doing so.

Continues below…

Jeanne Socrates arriving back in Victoria, BC after finishing her record breaking solo non stop circumnavigation around the world

Jeanne Socrates: 77 & solo non-stop around the world

Jeanne Socrates battled equipment failure during her record circumnavigation. She tells Katy Stickland how she overcame adversity

Mark Slats refined his storm tactics during the Golden Globe Race

Storm tactics from the Golden Globe Race: Mark Slats

Golden Globe Race skippers share their experiences of ocean storms, providing lessons for all of us about how to cope…

Manoeuvre under sail: getting home without an engine

We’re used to relying on our engines, but could you get home without one? James Stevens shows how it’s done…

Set the boat on a course deep downwind until you can get back to the cockpit to trim the sail.

Hoisting a spinnaker takes more planning and more time both to set and douse.

For gybing either of them, you would be best to snuff or drop the sail and reset on the new side.

Singlehanded sailing checklist

Boat well maintained with all known faults rectified
Sail handling arrangement set up with lines back to cockpit if possible
Autopilot or self-steering set up, calibrated and working, with remote if available
Hove-to practised and balanced sail plan checked
Furling headsail and mainsail lazyjacks set up and working
Enough fenders and mooring lines to rig both sides, and means of getting midships line onto a pontoon cleat
Confident you can handle the boat for the given forecast
Practised mooring, manoeuvring and sail handling alone
Well rested ahead of passage
Food and drink prepared in advance and available on deck
Familiar with boat’s key systems and how to troubleshoot each of them
Short passages and daysailing in coastal waters are better
Avoid overnight passages initially
Full passage plan completed with necessary notes available on deck
Passage plan and ETA shared with shore contact, coastguard or RYA SafeTrx app
Boat details registered on RYA SafeTrx app or website

Safety and kit

Adopt conservative approach to risk and safety
VHF radio on deck
Chartplotter or paper chart on deck
Wearing lifejacket at all times, particularly start and end of passage recommended
Carry personal safety equipment, including VHF, knife, torch, and PLB or AIS beacon
Jackstays rigged, tether clipped on
Emergency ladder in reach from water
Have easily available: wet weather gear, binoculars, handbearing compass, knife, sunscreen, snacks, and water.

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How To Fit Jackstays?

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When I fit jacklines on Mandolin, I run jacklines made of flat webbing down both starboard and port deck walkways. I cleat it at the forward cleat and stretch it to a cleat towards the middle or back of the cockpit. That way I can clip on while in the cockpit, climb out and walk anywhere forward without removing the tether. I would think that a centerline jackline would cause too many snags. Tod

Gladrags1 said: When I fit jacklines on Mandolin, I run jacklines made of flat webbing down both starboard and port deck walkways. I cleat it at the forward cleat and stretch it to a cleat towards the middle or back of the cockpit. That way I can clip on while in the cockpit, climb out and walk anywhere forward without removing the tether. I would think that a centerline jackline would cause too many snags. Tod Click to expand...

Alot depends upon the setup of your individual boat. My setup works for me as if I am going forward, I would be going on the high side. If I fell, my jackline would be farther away from the leeward jacklines than one centerline. My feeling is that you want to keep the jackline as clear as possible so the tether runs freely and you want to reduce the number of places where you have to unclip and move to a different jackline to continue your movement forward. Additionally, you want to keep your personal center of gravity low to the boat so you don't want to be stretching out to clip on to a jackline far away. Unclipping to clip on to the mast to do some extended work there makes sense as well if needed. By spearguns, are you talking about windshield? I would keep the jacklines low and close to the cockpit so you can clip on easily without stretching, keeping your personal center of gravity low to the boat.

I have recently acquired a 29 foot Sadler with a sprayhood and wire jackstays along the side decks. There are no adequate handholds when leaving the cockpit. The existing jackstays would not keep me on the boat and so I am looking at trying to construct a central jackstay. The sprayhood is an obstacle to a central jackstay. I can imagine 2 solutions. The first and cheapest would be to create a strong point just aft of the mast and to run a wire jackstay from the strong point to a floating steel ring on the backstay about 6 feet above the pushpit. As the backstay is centrally located, the jackstay would be central and would clear the sprayhood. I could then clip on in the cockpit. The drawback is potential damage to the backstay from the steel ring. The second solution requires the strong point aft of the mast and a steel gantry over the sprayhood. This gantry would take the shape of a roll bar and would be used for handholds when leaving the cockpit instead of the sprayhood! The jackstay would be connected between the strongpoint and the gantry once again permitting clipping on when leaving the cockpit. Any drawbacks or comments?

I have always thought that jackstays would be safer if located on or close to the center line. Something I read somewhere (can’t remember where) recommended leaving a tether attached to the jackstay and run back to the cockpit. Thus you could clip onto that tether and then unclip your cockpit tether before leaving the cockpit. Of course it would depend on the layout of your boat but I thought that jackstays in a shallow V with a tether on each and clipped to something within easy reach from the cockpit would be the way to go. ‘Haven’t got round to trying it yet.

Brion Toss discusses jacklines at length in his 'riggers apprentice' and is worth reading before drilling holes in your boat...

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Thread starter Sneaky Pete
Start date 23 Jan 2024
23 Jan 2024

Sneaky Pete

Where would be the best place to attach jackstays to and by what method. last boat I had they attached to the aluminium toe rail by D shackle next boat has a hardwood toe rail so none starter there.

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Sneaky Pete said: Where would be the best place to attach jackstays to and by what method. last boat I had they attached to the aluminium toe rail by D shackle next boat has a hardwood toe rail so none starter there. Click to expand...

RunAgroundHard

A similar issue. I bought Wichard U bolts, fitted them to the side deck and attached the jackstays. I plan to move the Wichards to the coach roof and make the jackstays more centre line. Side deck jackstays have significant risks if you go overboard. Maybe look at something more centre line.

Do the centreline attachment enthusiasts not have sprayhoods fitted? There is zero chance of reaching round our sprayhood to clip on before leaving cockpit (essential). Hence our jackstays are attached at the back to spinnaker block attachment points. Always go along high side. If on rare occasion need to access lee side deck, go to mast and reclip from there (using the three hook tethers) - or more likely briefly heave to and make the high side, then back to cockpit and gybe out to continue on.

My rigging, sprayhood and deck layout make a centreline jackstay virtually impossible. I have a wooden cap over the shallow bulwarks but have found that there is a useful strongpoint on the pulpit and aft where there is a strong loop for a spinnaker block that is not used. I think that the answer is going to be different for each boat. In the absence of any obvious points it may be necessary to fix suitably strong rings or hoops.

It’s not beyond the wit of people to design work arounds. In my case there will be short jackstays go around the cockpit coaming. 3 x clip harness tethers are required. The only restriction is a lack of imagination.

I've a sprayhood, and I've jackstays. Both sides of the jackstays run close to the centre line of the boat. I sail with the sprayhood down so the jackstays are above it in its laid down position; the boat's got a low boom, so it's what it is. I never leave the cockpit without being clipped on, and from one position can go to either side, and be sure that I won't go over the side as long as I'm clipped on. With these things down the outside of the stays, running along the edge of the boat, if one falls over, you'll be in the water, being towed along and trying to think "Why didn't I make it so that I can't fall into the water?". My sprayhood is only deployed in harbour, as it's part of the cockpit tent, which isn't going to be acceptable for many, I mean going sailing and getting wet, but as RunAgroundHard states in #6 it might require a bit of effort, where one should think of the priority and figure it out as it's not tricky.

Permanently rig (at least at sea) a harness safety line over the sprayhood and onto the (coachroof) jackstay. If you are in the cockpit, then use a different safety line onto whatever is normal, but when you go forward, change safety line to the one clipped onto the coachrood/centreline jackstay. If this safety line is still a bit long, take another one up with you which is shorter, or has 2 attachment points.

24 Jan 2024

On Jissel, there a centre stay wasn't an option, and there was nowhere to attach the aft end, so I fitted a U bolt through the deck with a suitable backing plate, though I reckon that any tug hard enough to pull the bolt through the deck would have left me entirely uninterested in subsequent events. The bolt obviously needed to be well sealed, Forward, both were attached to a wire strop shackled to the stem fitting.

I use wide jaw D shackles on the pulpit and pushpit bases. (And keep to the high side and routinely use the short tether.)

You can Y or V jackstays along centreline if you have sprayhood. Basically a single point fixing at base of mast ... leads aft in either one JS or a pair ... If its one - then aft it connects to a another transverse stay fixed either side of sprayhood creating a Y. If its two stays running aft - they create a V - each fixed to either side of sprayhood. Foredeck of course is single from mast to pulpit ... unrigged in port to allow forehatch to open ..

Refueler said: You can Y or V jackstays along centreline if you have sprayhood. Basically a single point fixing at base of mast ... leads aft in either one JS or a pair ... …… Click to expand...

dunedin said: Don’t think that would work on our boat - and many. Essential to be able to clip on before leaving cockpit, so need rear connection point for jackstay on side deck near pushpit. Then would need to go forward and slightly outwards for 2-3m - which works if connected at pulpit and passing outside stays, but would need to be extremely loose if it were to curve back towards the mast in the next 3m or so. Probably works in smaller / narrower boats and with small (or non existent) sprayhoods, but not as get bigger With a wide sprayhood. But never had concern about using along windward side deck. Click to expand...

Sumara of Weymouth

I would not completely write off the concept of a webbing jackstay running along the deck. As Dunedin pointed out, if you go forward on the windward side of the boat then the jackstay on the deck provides maximum protection on the assumption that you will not be swept off into the wind and waves. My sails are all hanked on, so I spend a lot of time on the foredeck putting in reefs etc but I don't think I have ever attempted to go forward on the lee side of the boat. The concept of clipping on and off with multiple tethers has no appeal whatsoever. I think it is best to clip on once from the cockpit and go forward with both hands free. One for the boat etc. I'm not saying my method would suit all boats, but it certainly suits my Vertue and probably many other small boats.

Refueler said: If its two stays running aft - they create a V - each fixed to either side of sprayhood. Foredeck of course is single from mast to pulpit ... unrigged in port to allow forehatch to open .. Click to expand...

Another option, fit an attachment point on the deck, halfway between cockpit and mast, central position, then run a fixed tether to one side of the cockpit, you attach your harness directly to this tether when going to the mast. Just take a quick couple of measurements to see if it would make sense on your boat.

Sumara of Weymouth said: I would not completely write off the concept of a webbing jackstay running along the deck. As Dunedin pointed out, if you go forward on the windward side of the boat then the jackstay on the deck provides maximum protection on the assumption that you will not be swept off into the wind and waves. My sails are all hanked on, so I spend a lot of time on the foredeck putting in reefs etc but I don't think I have ever attempted to go forward on the lee side of the boat. The concept of clipping on and off with multiple tethers has no appeal whatsoever. I think it is best to clip on once from the cockpit and go forward with both hands free. One for the boat etc. I'm not saying my method would suit all boats, but it certainly suits my Vertue and probably many other small boats. Click to expand...

I'm not sure I have ever heard a case of someone falling off to windward (up hill). Has anyone such a report they could post? The other thing that is very rare is a person falling over while moving along the boat. Every case I know the person was either working and not holding on, or in the cockpit. When you are moving you are focused and holding on. It is the work stations you need to worry about. US Sailing published a report that reached this conclusion (the author, I recall, was Evan Starzinger). Two exceptions. Off the stern and off the very tip of bow. Then clip short once you get there, even doubling the short tether if need be (I've done that when working on the furler--very secure). The pulpit will always be precarious when the boat is plying submarine.

Refueler said: Fair comment - but one wave rolling that boat and whether windward or not - you can be over ... Click to expand...

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05-01-2021, 00:53
Boat: Simpson 11m Catamaran	on my 36ft . I'd like to know if anyone has experience/thoughts about using instead of webbing. I know there is the thought that webbing sits flat on the and doesn't roll under the foot. But in my experience the webbing catches the and flaps around causing a trip hazard. I also like the ease of making strong splices in . Oh, yes and I plan to have a line on each side leading to the forestay and another running from there to the . Or is there a better way to set them up?

05-01-2021, 07:21
Boat: Cape Dory 31	This would be enough to keep me away from switching from the webbing I currently use. I use dyneema but not in areas where my life might depend on it.....

05-01-2021, 07:33

This would be enough to keep me away from switching from the webbing I currently use. I use dyneema but not in areas where my life might depend on it.....

05-01-2021, 07:37

Boat: PDQ Altair, 32/34

This would be enough to keep me away from switching from the webbing I currently use. I use dyneema but not in areas where my life might depend on it.....

05-01-2021, 07:50

Boat: PDQ Altair, 32/34

on my 36ft .

I'd like to know if anyone has experience/thoughts about using dyneema instead of webbing.

I know there is the thought that webbing sits flat on the and doesn't roll under the foot. But in my experience the webbing catches the and flaps around causing a trip hazard. I also like the ease of making strong splices in dyneema.

Oh, yes and I plan to have a line on each side leading to the forestay and another running from there to the . Or is there a better way to set them up?

05-01-2021, 08:13

Boat: Lagoon 400

This would be enough to keep me away from switching from the webbing I currently use. I use dyneema but not in areas where my life might depend on it.....

05-01-2021, 09:44
Boat: Wauquiez 43 PS

05-01-2021, 09:55

Boat: Woods Mira 35 Catamaran

We have replaced dyneema rigging which the previous owner put on the after about 10 years.
It had discolored on the dyed outermost layer but inside it was in pretty good shape.
It was not sheathed.
I admit that was just a visual check, but still.

05-01-2021, 09:55

Boat: Leopard 39

, you may depend in the dyneema lines to not fail.
AND - as the lines discussed here are in an easily inspected areas, they will be easily monitored for chafe and any developing issues may be caught in time.

05-01-2021, 10:27
Boat: PDQ Altair, 32/34	. World Sailing has not investigated this, most likely because there has not been a failure of a Dyneema or webbing jackline that was properly installed and maintained (please post if you know of any -- that information would be greatly appreciated). The only failures I am aware of resulted from clipping direct to a hard point, resulting in an impact load and tether failure. Since then, the tether standard was revised to include an impact (drop) test. Dyneema is not a miracle material that can do all things better. It is actually worse in some applications, if you consider all of the effects. It is a new material that has new rules.

05-01-2021, 11:24
Boat: Nonsuch 30	. Everything being equal I would tend to return to polyester webbing of the appropriate quality to do the job because of its flatness. WRT webbing flapping I found that having one or two half turns in the webbing stops this.

05-01-2021, 12:01
Boat: Beneteau 40.7	braids are not good under abraision. I suggest line that has a polyester cover if a metal clip or shackle will be sliding along it.

05-01-2021, 12:10

Boat: Woods Mira 35 Catamaran

and replacement if necessary can keep that in bay.

braids are not good under abraision. I suggest line that has a polyester cover if a metal clip or shackle will be sliding along it.

05-01-2021, 15:24
Boat: adams 35	with fittings at each end then sewed it between two lengths of webbing (with eyes each end) This gave me a flat line on deck with the weight and of the wire. The rigger was happy to give it away and the sewing took half an hour on the old singer

05-01-2021, 15:30
	, I would be shredded as I was posted past the deck from stem to stern! I am a great believer in two simple tethers. One on, one off, at all times....In 'those' conditions, one is always made up, short and snug, in the event of 'solid water'..

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Orcas sink sailing yacht in Strait of Gibraltar

An unknown number of orcas have sunk a sailing yacht after ramming it in Moroccan waters in the Strait of Gibraltar, Spain’s maritime rescue service said on Monday, a new attack in what has become a trend in the past four years.

The vessel Alboran Cognac, which measured 15 metres (49 feet) in length and carried two people, encountered the highly social apex predators, also known as killer whales, at 9 a.m. local time (0700 GMT) on Sunday, the service said.

The passengers reported feeling sudden blows to the hull and rudder before water started seeping into the ship. After alerting the rescue services, a nearby oil tanker took them onboard and transported them to Gibraltar.

The yacht was left adrift and eventually sank.

The incident is the latest example of recurring orca rammings around the Gibraltar Strait that separates Europe from Africa and off the Atlantic coast of Portugal and northwestern Spain.

Experts believe them to involve a subpopulation of about 15 individuals given the designation “Gladis.”

According to the research group GTOA, which tracks populations of the Iberian orca sub-species, there have been nearly 700 interactions since orca attacks on ships in the region were first reported in May 2020.

Researchers are unsure about the causes for the behaviour, with leading theories including it being a playful manifestation of the mammals’ curiosity, a social fad or the intentional targeting of what they perceive as competitors for their favourite prey, the local bluefin tuna.

Although known as killer whales, endangered orcas are part of the dolphin family. They can measure up to eight metres and weigh up to six tonnes as adults.

Yachting World

Digital Edition

Olympic Sailing boats: Paris 2024 Olympic Sailing events explained

Toby Heppell
July 23, 2024

From foiling windsurfers and catamarans to traditional classes here'e everything you need to know about the Olympic Boats and Olympic Sailing Events at Paris 2024

There have been many changes to the Olympic Sailing boats – or Olympic sailing classes – since the last, Covid delayed, Games in Tokyo, so what are the new Olympic Boats zipping around in the stunning Mediterranean weather in the Olympic sailing venue in Marseilles?

Two of the new Olympic sailing events do not take place in boats at all, but are the Olympic Windsurfing and Olympic Kitesurfing events, which along with the Olympic Dinghy, Olympic Multihull, and Olympic Skiff events all fall under the ‘Olympic Sailing’ banner.

Both the windsurfing and kitesurfing events at the Paris 2024 Olympics will be zooming around out of the water on hydrofoils – as is the case for the Olympic Multihull, the Nacra 17 Catamaran .

Olympic Sailing in Paris 2024 runs from 28th July – 8th Aug

The 10 events that will take place in Paris 2024 will be:

Men’s Windsurfing – iQFOiL – NEW for 2024
Women’s Windsurfing – iQFOiL – NEW for 2024
Men’s Kite – Formula Kite – NEW for 2024
Women’s Kite – Formula Kite – NEW for 2024
Men’s One Person Dinghy – ILCA 7
Women’s One Person Dinghy – ILCA 6
Men’s Skiff – 49er
Women’s Skiff – 49erFX
Mixed Dinghy – 470 – NEW for 2024
Mixed Multihull – Nacra 17

Paris 2024 Olympic Boats

Paris 2024 Olympic Sailing Test Event, Marseille, France. Day 6 Race Day on 14th July 2023.

Olympic Windsurfer – IQFoil – Men & women

The IQFoil is a windsurfing class selected by World Sailing to replace the RS:X for the 2024 Summer Olympics. Sailors competing in the IQFoil fleet may only use a single sail – a notable difference from many windsurfing events, where multiple sails sizes may be used. The sail size for the men’s class is 9m2.

The women’s Olympic windsurfer features a slightly smaller sail than the men’s class at 8m2. For both the men’s and women’s classes, the rider has a choice between using a hydrofoil or a conventional 68 cm fin, with the former being used in all but the lightest of conditions.

Olympic Kitesurfer – Formula Kite – Women & Men

Formula Kite will make its Olympic debut in 2024 having been selected by World Sailing to effectively replace two Olympic Dinghy events. The class features a soft, foil kite and a board with a hydrofoil.

For both men’s and Women’s fleets, the Formula Kite classes do not feature one-design kit, but instead competitors use their choice of approved production equipment. The International Kiteboarding Association (IKA) manages the class.

Paris 2024 Olympic Sailing Test Event, Marseille, France. Day 3 Race Day on 11th July 2023.

Olympic Multihull – Nacra 17 – Mixed

The first mixed class in sailing at the Olympics, the Nacra 17 must have one male and one female, though which role they take (helm or crew) is up to the teams.

The Nacra 17 is a very high performance catamaran and now features hydrofoils allowing the boat to zip around above the surface of the water. It can be very fast and very difficult to control, which can result in races with many lead changes.

Olympic Singlehanded Dinghy – ILCA 7 (Men) + ILCA 6 (Women)

Formerly known at the Laser and the Laser Radial, the ILCA 7 (and women’s ILCA 6) have the largest number of boats at the Olympic sailing regatta. The singlehanded dinghy is a one-design and all sailors are assigned an identical boat at the start of the competition.

The women’s singlehanded dinghy features the same hull as the men’s class with a slightly smaller rig. As with the men’s class, the athletes are assigned a boat at the start of competition.

Paris 2024 Olympic Sailing Test Event, Marseille, France. Day 7 Race Day on 15th July 2023.

Olympic Skiff – 49erFX (Women) 49er (Men)

The high performance 49er skiff has wings on the side of the boat to increase leverage. Both the helm and crew trapeze from these wings at the same time to increase leverage further still. As a result the boats are fast and difficult to sail requiring a high level of athleticism.

The 49erFX is one of the newest Olympic classes, having been introduced in 2016. The hull is the same at the 49er but the sails are smaller and set on a smaller rig. It still features the two wings and two trapezes and is just as challenging to sail as the 49er.

Paris 2024 Olympic Sailing Test Event, Marseille, France. Day 5 Race Day on 13th July 2023.

Olympic 2 Person Dinghy – 470 – Mixed

The 470 is a two person dinghy with one helm steering and a crew on the trapeze. for 2024 this has become a mixed event and, like the Nacra 17 must have 1 male and 1 female athlete, though what position they take is up to the crew themselves. Equipment is controlled but can be modified to a degree in order to better match the boat and sailors. Men and women compete in two different fleets for two different medals, though in the same type of boat.

Head over to our Paris 2024 Olympic Sailing page for more on the Olympic Sailing, Olympic sailing form guide , and Olympic sailing boats explainer.

Article continues below…

Who looks set to win the Olympic Sailing medals in Paris 2024?

Could Paris 2024 be one of the best Olympic regattas yet? Hosted by a country truly passionate about sailing, combined…

Olympic Sailing explained: What you need to know to follow the racing

Sailing has been an Olympic sport since the first Olympiad in 1896 and has changed significantly over the years since.…

Tourists to be blocked from sailing too close to Capri with plans for shoreline barrier

T he island of Capri has proposed a barrier of buoys to stop boats from sailing too close to shore and prevent damage to its cove-filled coastline.

According to reports, plans for a perimeter of 40 buoys 100m offshore for 3.7 miles around the Italian island’s western coast were put forward by the local council last week.

The mayor of Anacapri, Franco Cerrotta, told The Telegraph : “There is too much traffic and motorboats are travelling too fast. We have to stop boorish behaviour and defend the sea.”

Mr Cerrotta added that the barrier would also protect children in swimming areas from dangerous encounters with boats.

Superyachts hosting celebrities from Leonardo di Caprio to Jeff Bezos and Beyonce are seen anchored offshore in Capri every summer.

Local boat rental companies that are dependent on tourism said the move would damage businesses and drive holidaymakers away.

Famous sites such as the Blue Grotto and Green Cave are A-lister magnets, and regular boat tours from Positano mean tourist numbers often exceed residents during the peak summer season.

As many as 16,000 international visitors a day travelled to the Mediterranean island – home to just 12,900 residents – in May and June, causing packed piazzas and bursting beaches.

This year, Capri doubled its visitors’ fee from €2.50 to €5 (£4.20) for tourists taking ferries from Naples or Sorrento between April and October – a move intended to persuade more people to visit the Italian island in winter.

In June, a water emergency prompted Capri to order a halt to the arrival of tourists .

Without a water supply, it was impossible to guarantee essential services to “thousands of people” who travel to the island daily during the tourist season.

The emergency was caused by a failure in the mainland’s water system that provides vital supplies to the island.

For more travel news and advice listen to Simon Calder’s podcast .

The Independent is the world’s most free-thinking news brand, providing global news, commentary and analysis for the independently-minded. We have grown a huge, global readership of independently minded individuals, who value our trusted voice and commitment to positive change. Our mission, making change happen, has never been as important as it is today.

Screen Rant

Fans lash out after these below deck sailing yacht stars are spotted hanging out together.

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Below Deck Sailing Yacht Should Be Canceled After Four Seasons (Could Gary Be The Reason?)

Below deck star lashes out at fan after sailing yacht season 5 cancelation rumors grow, this below deck med star refuses to take responsibility for poor performance amid producer interference accusations.

Fans were upset to see Daisy and Gary hanging out together, causing controversy among Below Deck Sailing Yacht viewers.
Daisy's love triangle with Gary and Colin led to mixed reactions from fans, with some feeling she put Gary first.
Uncertainty surrounds the future of Below Deck Sailing Yacht season 5, as Daisy's return is up in the air and Gary faced allegations.

Below Deck Sailing Yacht fans lash out after Gary King and Daisy Kelliher are spotted hanging out together. After coming into Below Deck Sailing Yacht season 4 , Daisy and Gary quickly formed a flirtatious relationship that was geared to lead to a boatmance for the summer. However, plans were changed when Daisy found herself in a love triangle with Gary and Chief Engineer, Colin MacRae. The trio of friends had a complicated dynamic. Daisy wanted to get to know both men while maintaining their friendship, and surprisingly, it seemed to work out in the end.

Reddit user 10268999 created a thread with the caption "Yikes Daisy," and a screenshot of Daisy's recent Instagram story featuring her and Gary seemingly on vacation together. This photo of the two stars upset fans, who couldn't believe that Daisy would still be this close to Gary.

Reddit user Coonhound420 wrote, "I feel like we learned A LOT about Daisy when she was hooking up with Collin and essentially put Gary first." Gary and Daisy's post let fans know they were vacationing together, but it can be assumed they didn't expect this backlash.

What Is The Future Of Below Deck Sailing Yacht?

What is gary's role in its absence.

As of the unreleased season 5 of Below Deck Sailing Yacht , Daisy and Gary have been distanced from the franchise for different reasons. Back in June, Daisy revealed her sister had an accident in Thailand while riding a moped which left her seriously injured. The incident left Daisy's return to Below Deck Sailing Yacht season 5 up in the air. However, after Below Deck Sailing Yacht season 4, Gary faced serious allegations of sexual misconduct. He denied the allegations and rumors of his departure from season 5, which continued filming with the star after the news dropped.

Even though season 5 has finished filming, the show's release date has not been revealed yet. The delayed release has left fans and viewers speculating about the reasons, as Bravo has not dropped a trailer or provided any updates. Despite backlash and rumors, Gary and Daisy have continued to spend time together, as the return of Below Deck Sailing Yacht season 5 had remained unknown. The two stars gained a friendship on the show that has stood the test of allegations and outside disapproval.

As fall quickly approaches and new show lineups are announced, Bravo hasn't let anything slip regarding their plans for Below Deck Sailing Yacht season 5. The series' long hiatus and behind-the-scenes drama with Gary and other cast members have left viewers eager to see what the latest season has to offer. As some of the cast have continued to keep in touch over the past year, it will be interesting to see the dynamics of some relationships in season 5, if it's ever released.

Below Deck Mediterranean airs Mondays at 9 p.m. EDT on Bravo.

Source: 10268999 /Reddit

Below Deck Sailing Yacht

Not available

Below Deck Sailing Yacht is a spin-off of the Below Deck reality television series. Premiering on Bravo, the show follows the life of a Yacht crew as they attempt to navigate a busy Charter season in which many customers make use of a 177-foot sailing yacht. Over the first three seasons, the yacht has been to Greece, Croatia, and Spain.

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Clearance August Race Boat Cleaning Kit £26.00

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Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance.

The Jimmy Green Rigging Team can advise you on the correct specification when fitting Ultra-Performance Jackstay Lifelines in 12 strand Hollow-Braid, 100% Dyneema fibre rope.

Dyneema Fibre Jackstay Lifelines are spliced and finished to your individual requirements in the Jimmy Green Splicing Centre, the hub of our Custom Rigging Service operation.

Dyneema Jackstay Lifelines are available to order online in 5mm or 6mm diameter in a choice of ropes - LIROS D Pro Static or Hampidjan DynIce Dux.

Ordering Jackstay Lifelines in Dyneema:

Select your preferred spliced option for one end - the most flexible arrangement is the long 'cow hitch' loop splice
Enter the required length - make an allowance for adding your choice of fitting to the second end and making off with lanyards.
Select your preferred spliced option for the other end - the most flexible arrangement is a repeat of the long 'cow hitch' loop splice

Dyneema Jackstay Lifeline Break Loads LIROS Break Load for D Pro Static - 5mm = 2450kg, 6mm = 4050kg Hampidjan Break Load for DynIce Dux - 5mm = 4.8 tonnes, 6mm = 6.8 tonnes N.B. All wire/rope splicing and sewing marginally reduces the breaking strain of the finished product. Hampidjan publish a Spliced Break Load i.e. the strength of the line after it has been spliced DynIce Dux Spliced Break Load - 5mm = 4.3 tonnes, 6mm = 6.1 tonnes

Dyneema Stretch Properties with regard to setting up Jackstay Lifelines LIROS D Pro Static – Near zero elongation and creep Hampidjan DynIce - Near zero constructional stretch and creep

Dyneema UV and Abrasion Factors with regard to Jackstays and Lifelines: Dyneema fibre has inherently good UV and abrasion resistance properties, not far behind polyester which is excellent. However, resilience is considerably enhanced by a special additional process. LIROS D Pro Static is additionally protected by a PU impregnation process - the LIROS Coating System provides extra UV and abrasion resistance. Hampidjan DynIce is additionally protected by a coating treatment - Hampidjan impregnation with Durapur for added protection and improved abrasion resistance.

Jimmy Green Dyneema Fibre Rope Jackstay Lifeline Replacement:

All the fibre rope options are much stronger than 5mm wire and all the options (except for 5mm LIROS D Pro Static) are stronger than 6mm wire.

Cow Hitch Spliced Loops are extremely useful for attaching a line to an end fitting or to a fixed point - a cow hitch loop is a long soft loop spliced into the end of the line. The loop is approximately 75mm long when laid flat and pulled out straight. End Fitting - pass the long loop through the eye and over the top of the fitting to form a cow hitch on the eye. Fixed point - pass the long loop around the fixed point e.g. a pushpit rail upright, thread the other end of the line into the long loop and pull the entire length of the line through until it is tight.

Aim to set up your Jackstays so that the ropes have the maximum possible radius of turn around eyes/pins/fittings

Team Jimmy Green suggest that you regard 5mm DynIce Dux as the benchmark rope for fibre lifelines. D Pro Static is the LIROS top quality equivalent rope so makes a good alternative. Upgrade to 6mm if you prefer the belt and braces approach, although 6mm is generally only for larger yachts or for ocean-going adventurers.

Fibre Rope options have minimal elongation compared with wire so they can be tensioned satisfactorily with lanyards. Team Jimmy Green suggest lanyards made from 3mm Dyneema with a commensurate number of passes to achieve a break load comparable with the static part.

Dyneema has excellent abrasion resistance but will be more prone to damage, from unkind abrasive snagging points than wire or webbing, so it is extremely important to ensure that all the deck fittings that they come into contact with are sympathetically smooth.

Anti-Chafe Sleeving provides excellent abrasion resistance where a Jackstay Lifeline has to lay against a deck fitting permanently e.g. a short length of Technora or Dyneema hollowbraid, whipped securely into position, or even a neat suede leather serving. Ensure that the safety tether hook can pass easily over any sleeving.

Dyneema can be visually monitored for signs of wear or other deterioration. Any damage can then easily be identified and addressed well before there is any chance of failure - Dyneema exhibits a loss of function by going fuzzy (or furry) but the deterioration from this point should be slow enough for it to be replaced in good time - prevention is better than cure.

Hampidjan (1) LIROS Ropes (1)

Purchase Type

Custom Build (1)

LIROS 5mm D-Pro Static Lifeline

5mm dynice dux lifeline.

Bodies of Missing Couple Sailing Across the Atlantic Found in Nova Scotia

The bodies of Brett Clibbery, 70, and his wife, Sarah Packwood, 60, were found in a lifeboat in Nova Scotia. Photo: Theros Sailing Adventure

The bodies of a missing couple attempting to sail across the Atlantic have been found in a lifeboat that washed up on Sable Island, Nova Scotia .

Brett Clibbery, 70, and his wife, Sarah Packwood, 60, were reported missing on June 18. They set sail aboard the Theros, a GibSea 42-foot sailboat powered by the wind and solar power, from Halifax Harbour, Nova Scotia on June 11, with the intent of making landfall some 2,000 miles away in the Azores in Portugal. Sadly, on July 10, their bodies were found.

According to a statement from the Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP), it’s not clear exactly what made them abandon ship, but authorities are investigating the possible causes.

Sable Island, where Clibbery and Packwood were found, is a sliver of sand about 200 miles from Halifax. Known as “the graveyard of the Atlantic,” it has been the site of hundreds of shipwrecks.

“They were amazing people,” wrote Clibbery’s son James on Facebook, “and there isn’t anything that will fill the hole that has been left by their, so far unexplained passing.”

The couple’s trip was one leg of something they called the “Green Odyssey.” They were attempting to show that it is possible to travel all over the world without the use of fossil fuels.

They posted their last video to their Facebook page, Theros Sailing Adventure, on June 11.

According to reports, they intended to be sailing for around 21 days, weather permitting. The winds were calm when they left so they planned for a few extra days. When they reached around 150 miles from the Azores, they were planning on making an AIS ping — which is an automatic tracking system that uses transceivers on ships used by vessel traffic services — to let everyone know they were okay.

Sadly, that was not to be the case. An investigation is underway.

“Living will not be the same without your wisdom, and your wife was quickly becoming a beacon of knowledge, and kindness,” James Clibbery wrote. “I miss your smiles. I miss your voices. You will be forever missed.”

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COMMENTS

Jackstays and Jacklines- The options for the cruising sailor
Tips on Jackstays (or Jacklines), Clipping Points and Static Safety Lines: 1. Jacklines should be attached to through-bolted or welded deck plates on the port and starboard sides of the center line. They are to provide secure attachments for safety harness tethers. These lines should be made of uncoated stainless steel wire or webbing of ...
Custom Jackstays and Jacklines
Jimmy Green webbing jackstays are produced in high tenacity, UK manufacture, 100% polyester webbing. MBL 2000kg, available in Blue, Red, Yellow and Black. MBL 3000kg, available in White. The 25mm webbing will fit comfortably onto the pin of our Extra Wide Stainless Steel Shackles. Dyneema Fibre Jackstay Lines are spliced to length in the Jimmy ...
Jackstays and Jacklines- The options for the cruising sailor
Sail World - The world's largest sailing news network; sail and sailing, cruising, boating news ... Tips on Jackstays (or Jacklines), Clipping Points and Static Safety Lines: ... Yachts under 300 tons will receive a 50% Suez Canal transit rebate For once, good news for yachts from Egypt. Fees to transit the Suez Canal are actually reducing for ...
Jacklines and jackstays
Published Date: August 11 2023. Jacklines or jackstays are lines attached to the fore and aft of your boat, allowing your crew to clip on via their safety tether and will prevent 'jolly jack tar' (the old name for a sailor) from falling overboard. These lines are vital in heavy conditions, especially, when you require a crew member to go ...
How to stay on deck and avoid MOB
You must be able to clip onto the jackstay from the cockpit. The jackstay must run as close to the centreline as possible. It must run the whole length of the deck. It must be as tight as possible. The safest orientation we found was one that can be used on yachts with mainsheet arches towards the back of the cockpit.
Noonsite.com
For many sailing enthusiasts, it is the dream of the long days away on the peaceful seas that they look forward to, out on the water and sail with just the elements and the company of trusted family and friends. ... It is good practice to stow webbing jackstays below when the yacht is not at sea to maximise their working life. The Disadvantages ...
Offshore sailing basic equipment: Jackstay
The jackstay I bought has a length of 12 metres, that is 3 metres more than my boat is long. The Jackstay comes with metal clamps and can be adjusted to the length desired. There is a heavy loop on one end which can einter be fitted throught the mooring clamp or - as I tried to mock here - through the Dyneema-loop for my removable baby-stay ...
Jackstay
Jackstay search pattern using two fixed jackstays to define the search area and a movable jackstay to guide the divers on each leg of the search Snagline search pattern using jackstays to define the search area and guide the divers who drag a line between them to snag the target. A diving jackstay is a form of guideline laid between two points to guide the diver during a search or to and from ...
Skippers' Tips: Replacing jack stays & rudder checks
At sea, especially with bad weather, heavy clothing, working on the fore deck or sailing shorthanded, most of us use weather jackstays and tethers. Only recently I was sailing with a friend of mine and he had rigged jackstays on deck, which I think was a good idea because the ride was quite bumpy and the water temperature was far below summer ...
The Pros and Cons of Chest-high Jacklines
Cons. Beware of tying into a stern or bow pulpit. The stern pulpits on many cruising boats will fail under less than 1,200 pound loads of load, less than half the minimum advised for jackline padeyes (4,500 pounds). See " USNA Lifeline Test Reveals Weak Spots," PS September 2012 for the full report. If your upper shrouds are located quite a ...
Setting Jackstay Tension
If the mast gives a pulse, then the jackstays are too loose and the mast is going beyond center. This could lead to broken masts. SailZing.com's Rob Hudson de Tarnowsky was lucky to come across this insight being shared at the 2017 ILYA Championship Regatta hosted by the Lake Geneva Yacht Club and Inland Lake Yachting Association.
Jackstay
Jackstay. A tightly stretched wire to hold the edge of an awning or a sail, or along which something may slide. If the Coastguard ever rescue you by breeches buoy they will haul you along a tautjackstay. But the most immediate use of ajackstay for the average boat-owner is when stretched along the deck as a lifeline for his personal harness ...
Wichard LYF'SAFE Jackstays
Wichard Lyf'Safe Jackstays Pair for Safe and Secure Deck Travel. SKU: WD-7000. Rated 5.00 out of 5 based on 2 customer ratings. £ 127.20 - £ 201.60. Perfect for sailing enthusiasts, these jackstays are easy to install and adjust. Size: 8.5M.
Webbing Jackstays
Jimmy Green webbing jackstays are produced in high tenacity, UV and abrasion resilient, UK manufacture, 100% polyester webbing. MBL 2000kg, available in Blue, Red, Yellow, and Black MBL 3000kg, available in White. The 25mm webbing will fit comfortably onto the pin of our Extra Wide Stainless Steel Shackles.
Webbing Jackstays Guidance
4mm 1 x 19 stainless steel wire, MBL = 1400kg. 5mm 1 x 19 stainless steel wire, MBL = 2190kg. High Tenacity Polyester Jackstay Webbing, MBL = 2100kg or 3000kg. The majority of jackstays produced are from the 2100kg webbing, but we also supply stronger webbing, MBL 3000kg. N.B.
Singlehanded sailing for the first time
Singlehanded sailing is often something we associate with feats of adventure and endurance, bringing forward ideas of the lone sailor heading off across oceans. Setting off on a significant offshore voyage on your own is a truly specialist activity. You are likely to experience sleep deprivation, the stresses of being alone for long periods of ...
Safety Jackstays (Pair)
Product Description. These jacklines, sometimes called jackstays, will help keep you securely on board without hindering your freedom of movement. Made of 25mm durable, UV-resistant Polyester strap, the 'Life-link' Jacklines feature two loops to attach it to the boat. You are then able to connect safety lines (sold separately) to you and ...
Permanent Jackstays
Messages. 4,473. Location. Deale, MD, USA. sail-delmarva.blogspot.com. jonathanhsm said: Thinking of installing permanent jackstays along the centre line of the boat. "Permanent" because I'm too lazy/ forgetful to rig/unrig every time I go sailing. If I use webbing I know its not a good idea to leave them on permanently because of UV damage etc.
The best way to rig a jackstay
Mine have sewn loops cow-hitched onto cleats at the bow, and a kind of buckle arrangement at the aft end, secured with a shackle. They're not particularly tight - they were fitted in a hurry at the start of a trip when I realised we had a rough forecast and the existing inherited jackstays were ancient and sun-bleached, hence the off-the-shelf adjustable buckles rather than being sewn to the ...
Keep safe for an Atlantic crossing
On our boat we will always take the jackstays off in harbour, putting them back on again before a passage. ... Accidents will happen, but the way you sail and set up your yacht can help minimise ...
How To Fit Jackstays?
I have recently acquired a 29 foot Sadler with a sprayhood and wire jackstays along the side decks. There are no adequate handholds when leaving the cockpit. The existing jackstays would not keep me on the boat and so I am looking at trying to construct a central jackstay. The sprayhood is an obstacle to a central jackstay. I can imagine 2 ...
Jackstay
My boat has a spray hood, which is most often up while sailing, and I reef the main by the mast, so I frequently move between the cockpit and mast foot. The jackstay (line actually) goes from just outside of the cockpit coaming, attached to the sheet winch support, around the mast and then back the other side, forming a V with only two points ...
Dyneema for Jacklines / Jackstays?
One of the big question marks for Dyneema is the very limited energy absorption capacity. No stretch means the forces are higher, and I have published test results that demonstrate that a Dyneema jackline needs to be about 50% stronger than webbing to provide equivalent safety. World Sailing has not investigated this, most likely because there has not been a failure of a Dyneema or webbing ...
Below Deck Star Lashes Out At Fan After Sailing Yacht Season 5
Below Deck Sailing Yacht star Gary King criticized a fan as the Bravo series is faced with rumors of a possible cancelation. A recurring face of the Bravo franchise, Gary was known as the flirtatious playboy throughout his many appearances on Below Deck and the large array of boatmances he had. He became involved in a dramatic love triangle with Daisy Kelliher and Colin MacRae during Below ...
Orcas sink sailing yacht in Strait of Gibraltar
An unknown number of orcas have sunk a sailing yacht after ramming it in Moroccan waters in the Strait of Gibraltar, Spain's maritime rescue service said on Monday, a new attack in what has ...
Olympic Sailing boats: Paris 2024 Olympic Sailing events explained
Paris 2024 Olympic Sailing Test Event, Marseille, France. Day 6 Race Day on 14th July 2023.
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The island of Capri has proposed a barrier of buoys to stop boats from sailing too close to shore and prevent damage to its cove-filled coastline. According to reports, plans for a perimeter of 40 ...
Fans Lash Out After These Below Deck Sailing Yacht Stars Are Spotted
Below Deck Sailing Yacht fans lash out after Gary King and Daisy Kelliher are spotted hanging out together. After coming into Below Deck Sailing Yacht season 4, Daisy and Gary quickly formed a flirtatious relationship that was geared to lead to a boatmance for the summer.However, plans were changed when Daisy found herself in a love triangle with Gary and Chief Engineer, Colin MacRae.
Jackstay Lifelines in Dyneema Fibre
The Jimmy Green Rigging Team can advise you on the correct specification when fitting Ultra-Performance Jackstay Lifelines in 12 strand Hollow-Braid, 100% Dyneema fibre rope. Dyneema Fibre Jackstay Lifelines are spliced and finished to your individual requirements in the Jimmy Green Splicing Centre, the hub of our Custom Rigging Service operation.
Bodies of Missing Couple Sailing Across the Atlantic Found in Nova Scotia
The bodies of a missing couple attempting to sail across the Atlantic have been found in a lifeboat that washed up on Sable Island, Nova Scotia. Brett Clibbery, 70, and his wife, Sarah Packwood ...

Jackstays and Jacklines- The options for the cruising sailor

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Jackstays and Jacklines- The options for the cruising sailor

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Jackstays (deck safety lines): Understanding their Construction and Usage

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Strength Comparison for Stainless Steel Wire, High Tenacity Jackstay Webbing and 12 Strand 100% Hollowbraid Dyneema

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Measuring your Jackstays

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Wichard Lyf’Safe Jackstays Pair for Safe and Secure Deck Travel

2 reviews for Wichard Lyf’Safe Jackstays Pair for Safe and Secure Deck Travel

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