c&c 24 sailboat review

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• Sailboat Guide

C&C 24 is a 24 ′ 0 ″ / 7.3 m monohull sailboat designed by C&C Design and built by C&C Yachts starting in 1975.

• 1 / 6 Saint Helena Island, SC, US 1976 C&C 24 $6,000 USD View
• 2 / 6 Saint Helena Island, SC, US 1976 C&C 24 $6,000 USD View
• 3 / 6 Saint Helena Island, SC, US 1976 C&C 24 $6,000 USD View
• 4 / 6 Saint Helena Island, SC, US 1976 C&C 24 $6,000 USD View
• 5 / 6 Saint Helena Island, SC, US 1976 C&C 24 $6,000 USD View
• 6 / 6 Saint Helena Island, SC, US 1976 C&C 24 $6,000 USD View

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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C&C 25 Mark I input/Advice

• Thread starter jproppe
• Start date Aug 9, 2012
• Brand-Specific Forums

Hello jproppe, You might check the sailboatowners, yachtworld, and other online boats for sale sites for info/pictures of other C&C 25 MK 1 for sale. That would show equipment and condition and price information that you could use to judge your purchase. Also, do a search for the C&C 25 and you will probably find a review (or even several) as a choice from your search engine. Reading those posts could be a start until you find a response from a person sailing one now. Enjoy the hunt!  

The C&C 25 mkI is an excellent boat for boat learning and growing with. They are very good quality boats and tend to hold their value well. There are about 15 C&C 25's in our club and most of them are actively raced. All sailboats heel but the 25 is a fairly stable boat considering her size. If you were really in 30 knots of wind, expect any boat to heel a lot. It would also depend on what size headsail was up and if the main was reefed. I've raced on a few 25 mkI 's and found them to be responsive and well mannered. They can handle strong winds and chop easily. The 25 is definitely worth serious consideration. Check out the www.cncphotoalbum.com site if you haven't already done so. There is a wealth of information there.  

Warren Milberg

I, too, think the mid-70's C&C 25 is an excellent boat with great sailing characteristics. Friend of mine owned one for 20 yrs and we sailed on it together a lot and in all kinds of weather on the Chesapeake. We just returned from a 65-mile trip to deliever this fine old boat to its new owner. A great trip in a great boat. Yet I think $5,900 for a '73 may be a bit overpriced. My friend's boat was a well equipped '76 with newish sails and roller furler (but no trailer), a 9.9 electric start OB, and sold for $4,500, a good price. I also owned and sailed a C&C 24 (Niagra) for many years. It is a very different boat than the 1 foot longer 25. Although it has bit deeper keel, I do not think it as stable as the 25 in serious weather which may also result from its flat bottom and beam-to-length ratio. I think the 24 is more of a cruiser than the 25, but both are really good sailing boats and would make an excellent starter if in good condition. Get a qualified surveyor to look over this boat.  

I agree with Warren regarding the C&C 24 vs 25. The sailing characteristics of the 25 make it feel like more than a foot longer than the 24. I've sailed and raced on both. Regarding the price, it all depends on the condition of the boat and how it is equiped. Good quality sails can easily cost a few thousand dollars for that boat. Spend some time looking at similar boats and you'll begin to see that the well maintained/fitted boats tend to demand a higher price. It's difficult to place a value on a boat based strictly on the model and year.  

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• Sailboat Reviews

Affordable Cruising Sailboats

Practical sailor reviews nine used boats over 35 feet and under $75,000..

In a search for a budget cruiser, Practical Sailor examined a field of used sailboats costing less than $75K and built between 1978 and 1984. We narrowed the field to boats with sufficient accommodations for four people and a draft of less than 6 feet. One way to approach a used-boat search is to look for sailboats with informed, active owners associations and high resale values. Practical Sailor’s quest for recession-proof cruisers led us to the Allied Princess 36, Bristol 35.5C, Endeavour 37, S2 11.0, Freedom 36, ODay 37, Niagara 35, C&C Landfall 38, and the Tartan 37. The report takes a more in-depth look at the Tartan, C&C Landfall, and Niagara.

Let’s say you’re looking to buy a boat for summer cruising along the coastal U.S. or on the Great Lakes, one that, when the time is right, is also capable of taking you safely and efficiently to Baja or the Bahamas, and perhaps even island-hopping from Miami to the West Indies. Like most of us, your budget is limited, so a new boat is out of the question. Let’s set more specifics:

• Passes a thorough survey by a respected surveyor and has been upgraded to meet current equipment and safety standards. (These are old boats, after all, prone to all sorts of potentially serious problems.)
• Fun to sail inshore (which means not too heavy and not too big).
• Sufficient accommodations and stowage to cruise four people for two weeks.
• Popular model (active owners support group for help and camaraderie) with decent resale value
• Under $75,000.
• Monohull (multihulls violate the price cap, anyway).
• Draft of less than 6 feet (for the islands, mon).

In the February 2008 issue, we examined 30-footers from the 1970s , which is just above the minimum length for the Big Three: standing headroom, enclosed head, and inboard engine. Too small, however, to satisfy our new criteria. So we need to jump up in size. As we culled through the possibilities, we found a fairly narrow range of boat lengths and vintages that satisfy the criteria. Of course, there always are exceptions, but basically it is this: 35- to 38-footers built between 1978 and 1984. Bigger or newer boats that meet our criteria cost more than $75,000.

Heres the list of nine models we came up with: Allied Princess 36, Bristol 35.5C, C&C Landfall 38, Endeavour 37, Freedom 36, Niagara 35, ODay 37, S2 11.0, and the Tartan 37. All were built by reputable companies in the U.S. or Canada, with underwater configurations ranging from full keels with attached rudders to fin keels and spade rudders. Displacements are mostly moderate.

Below we present notes on six of the finalists. Details of our 3 favorites are linked to the right of this page.

ALLIED PRINCESS 36

Allied Yachts developed an excellent line of cruising sailboats in the 1960s, including the first fiberglass boat to circumnavigate, the Seawind 30 ketch, which later was expanded to the 32-foot Seawind II. The handsome Luders 33 was the boat in which teenager Robin Lee Graham completed his historic circumnavigation. Arthur Edmunds designed the full-keel Princess 36 aft-cockpit ketch and the larger Mistress 39 center-cockpit ketch. None of these boats are fancily finished, but the fiberglass work is solid and well executed. They’re ocean-worthy, and affordable. The Princess 36 was in production from roughly 1972 to 1982. Wed look for a later model year; prices are under $50,000.

BRISTOL 35.5C

Bristol Yachts was founded by Clint Pearson, after he left Pearson Yachts in 1964. His early boats were Ford and Chevy quality, good but plainly finished, like the Allieds. Over the years this changed, so that by the late 1970s and early 1980s, his boats were between Buicks and Cadillacs in overall quality. This includes the Ted Hood-designed 35.5C. Its a centerboarder with a draft from 3 feet, 9 inches board up to 9 feet, 6 inches board down; a keel version also was available (named without the “C”).The solid fiberglass hull was laid up in two halves and then joined on centerline. It had an inward-turning flange on the hull, superior to the more common shoebox hull-to-deck joint. The 35.5C is very good in light air, but tender in a breeze. Pick one up for around $60,000.

ENDEAVOUR 37

The Endeavour Yacht Corp. was founded in 1974, and its first model was a 32-footer, built in molds given to it by Ted Irwin. Yup, the Endeavour 32 has the same hull as the Irwin 32. Its second model was the Endeavour 37, based on a smaller, little known Lee Creekmore hull that was cut in half and extended. Its not the prettiest boat in the world, and not very fast, but heavily built. Owners report no structural problems with the single-skin laminate hull. It has a long, shoal-draft keel and spade rudder. What helped popularize the Endeavour 37 was the choice of layouts: an aft cabin with a quarter berth, a V-berth and quarterberth, and a (rare) two aft-cabin model. Production ended after 1983. Prices are around $50,000.

After the Halsey Herreshoff-designed Freedom 40 that reintroduced the idea of unstayed spars, several other designers were commissioned to develop the model line-up. These included David Pedrick and Gary Mull; the latter drew the Freedom 36, in production from about 1986 to 1989. While the early and larger Freedoms were ketch rigged, models like the 36 were sloops, which were less costly to build and easier to handle. To improve upwind performance, a vestigial, self-tacking jib was added. Thats the main appeal of these boats: tacking is as easy as turning the wheel. The 36s hull is balsa-cored, as is the deck. Balsa adds tremendous stiffness, and reduces weight, which improves performance. The downside: Core rot near the partners on this boat could lead to a dismasting and costly hull damage. Interior finishing is above average. These boats sell right at our price break: low to mid-$70s.

This low-profile family sloop was second only to the ODay 40 in size of boats built by ODay under its various owners. Founded by Olympic gold-medalist George ODay to build one-designs and family daysailers, subsequent ownership expanded into trailer sailers and small- to medium-size coastal cruisers. Like the others, the 37 was designed by C. Raymond Hunt Associates. The center-cockpit is a bit unusual but some prefer it. The cruising fin keel and skeg-mounted rudder are well suited to shallow-water cruising, and the generous beam provides good form stability. The hull is solid fiberglass, and the deck is cored with balsa. Owners report it is well balanced and forgiving. Early 1980s models are on the market for less than $40,000.

Built in Holland, Mich., the S2 sailboat line emerged in 1973 when owner Leon Slikkers sold his powerboat company, Slickcraft, to AMF and had to sign a no-compete agreement. The 11.0 was the largest model, introduced in 1977. The designer was Arthur Edmunds, who also drew the Allied Princess 36, though the two are very different. Edmunds resisted some of the bumps and bulges indicative of the International Offshore Rule (IOR), but still gave the 11.0 fine ends, and a large foretriangle. Two accommodation plans were offered: an aft cockpit with conventional layout of V-berth, saloon, and quarter berth and galley flanking the companionway; and an unusual center-cockpit layout with V-berth forward immediately followed by opposing settees, and then galley and head more or less under the cockpit. The master suite is in the aft cabin, of course. The hull is solid fiberglass and includes the molded keel cavity for internal ballast; the deck is balsa-cored. Overall construction quality is rated above average. Prices range from about $30,000 to $50,000.

NIAGARA 35: a handsome cruiser with Hinterhoeller quality.

Austria-born George Hinterhoeller emigrated to Canada in the 1950s and began doing what he did all his life: build boats, first out of wood, then fiberglass composites. He was one of four partners who formed C&C Yachts in 1969. He left in 1975 to again form his own company, Hinterhoeller Yachts. The company built two distinct model lines: the better known Nonsuch line of cruising boats with unstayed catboat rigs, and the Niagara line. About 300 Niagara 35s were built between 1978 and 1995.

Canadian naval architect Mark Ellis designed the Niagara 35 as well as all of the Nonsuch models. He gave the 35 a beautiful, classic sheer with generous freeboard in the bow, swooping aft to a low point roughly at the forward end of the cockpit, and then rising slightly to the stern. The classic influence also is seen in the relatively long overhangs; todays trend is to lengthen the waterline as much as possible, with near plumb bows, discounting the old belief that overhangs were necessary for reserve buoyancy. So the Niagara 35 has a somewhat shorter waterline than the others in our group of nine, but as the hull heels, the overhangs immerse and sailing length increases. The short waterline also accounts for the 35s moderately high displacement/length ratio of 329. There is a direct correlation between the D/L and volume in the hull, and for a cruising boat, there must be sufficient space for tanks and provisions. Unfortunately, tankage in the 35 isn’t that much: 80 gallons water, 30 gallons diesel fuel, and 25 gallons holding tank.

The cruising fin keel is long enough for the boat to dry out on its own bottom should the need arise, like drying out against a seawall in Bali to paint the bottom. (Sorry-just dreaming!) The spade rudder seems a little unusual for a cruiser. When asked about it, Ellis said that it provides superior control to a skeg-mounted rudder, and that skegs, which are supposed to protect the rudder, often aren’t built strong enough to do the job. Circumnavigator and designer/builder/developer Steve Dashew agrees that offshore, in nasty conditions, spade rudders are the way to go.

Construction

George Hinterhoeller and his associates at C&C Yachts were early advocates of balsa-cored hull construction, because it reduces weight, increases panel stiffness, and lowers costs. The worry, of course, is delamination of the core to the inner and outer skins should water penetrate through to the core. This is why quality builders remove balsa coring wherever through-hulls or bolts pass through the hull or deck, and fill the area with a mix of resin and reinforcements. Hinterhoeller was such a builder, but core integrity still deserves close inspection during a pre-purchase survey.

All bulkheads are tabbed to the hull and deck with strips of fiberglass, and this is an important detail for an offshore boat. Many mass-produced boats have molded fiberglass headliners that prevent tabbing bulkheads to the deck; rather, the bulkheads simply fit into molded channels in the headliner, which do not prevent them from moving slightly as the boat flexes in waves.

Hardware quality is good. One owner described the chocks and cleats on his Niagara as “massive.” Hatches are Atkins & Hoyle cast aluminum, which are about as good as you can buy. And the original rigging was Navtec rod. Owners report no structural problems.

Performance

With its moderately heavy displacement, conservative sailplan, and relatively large keel, the Niagara 35 is not a speed demon, and does not point as high as a boat with a deep, narrow fin keel. But thats not what were after here. The 35s specs are just about what we want for a versatile cruising boat. Owners say performance picks up quickly as the breeze fills in. If the sailplan were larger, for improved light-air performance, youd have to reef sooner, and reefing is work.

The long keel has another advantage, and that is improved directional stability over shorter keels, which means less effort at the helm. We tend to think that a powerful below-deck autopilot can steer any boat, but autopilots struggle, too. A boat thats easy for the crew to hand steer also is easy for the autopilot to maintain course.

A lot of Niagara 35s were equipped with Volvo saildrives rather than conventional inboard diesel engines. Advantages of the saildrive: improved handling in reverse and lower cost. Disadvantages: potential corrosion of aluminum housing and not as much power. Various inboard diesels were fitted: Westerbeke 27-, 33-, and 40-horsepower models, and a Universal M35D, all with V-drives. Owners rate access somewhat difficult.

Accommodations

Two interior layouts were offered: the Classic, in which the forepeak has a workbench, shelves, seat, and stowage instead of the usual V-berth; and the Encore, which has an offset double berth forward, and quarter berth and U-shaped galley aft. The saloon in the Classic, with settees and dining table, is farther forward than usual; the head and owners stateroom, with single and double berths, is aft. Both plans have their fans.

Headroom is 6 feet, 4 inches in the main cabin and 6 feet, 2 inches in the aft cabin. Berths are 6 feet, 7 inches long; a few owners say berth widths are a bit tight. A couple of thoughts on the double berths offered in these two plans: V-berths are subject to a lot of motion underway and so do not make great sea berths, but at anchor, ventilation via the forward hatch makes them far more comfortable than a stuffy aft cabin, where its much more difficult to introduce air flow. Offset double berths do not waste outboard space like V-berths do, but the person sleeping outboard must crawl over his/her partner to get out of bed.

Thirty-year-old boats should be surveyed thoroughly. Nothing lasts forever, but boats well maintained last a lot longer. Pay particular attention to the balsa-cored hull and deck. If either has large areas of delamination, give the boat a pass, because the cost to repair could exceed the value of the boat.

A few owners expressed concern about the boats handling off the wind, which surprises us somewhat. A test sail in lively conditions should answer that question.

We much prefer the inboard. If you prefer the saildrive, look for signs of corrosion and get a repair estimate.

Niagara 35 Conclusion

The Niagara 35 is a handsome, classically proportioned cruising sloop from one of the best builders of production boats in North America. It is not considered big enough these days to be a circumnavigator, but certainly large enough for a couple to leisurely cruise the Bahamas, Caribbean Sea, and South Pacific. We found asking prices ranging from around $54,000 to $89,000, with most in the $60,000 range.

C&C LANDFALL 38

As noted, George Hinterhoeller was one of four partners who formed C&C Yachts in 1969, at Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario. The others were Belleville Marine, Bruckmann Manufacturing, and the design firm of George Cuthbertson and George Cassian. From the beginning, the emphasis was on performance. Indeed, the 40-foot Red Jacket won the 1968 Southern Ocean Racing Circuit (SORC).

In 1973, Cuthbertson retired to his Ontario farm, citing burn-out. Eight months later, he was back as president of C&C Yachts, telling staff that they ought to pursue more multi-purpose racer/cruiser models. C&C became the dominant boatbuilder in North America, with models ranging from the C&C 24 to the C&C 46, with models just about every 2 feet in between. The Landfall cruiser series was introduced in 1977, with the Landfall 42. It was followed by the Landfall 35, 38, and 48. Production of the 38 ran from 1977 to 1985, with about 180 built.

The C&C Landfall 38 is directly related to the earlier C&C 38. We wrote in our original 1983 review that the older hull design was “…modified with slightly fuller sections forward, a slightly raked transom rather than an IOR reversed transom, a longer, shoaler keel, and a longer deckhouse for increased interior volume.” The spade rudder is not everyones first choice on a serious cruising boat, but it does provide superior control. And the Landfalls have a higher degree of finish inside, along with layouts more suited to family cruising.

The Landfalls perform very well, thanks to lightweight construction and speedy hull forms. The Landfall 38s displacement/length ratio of 272 is the lowest of the three compared in this review.

Notable drawbacks: a V-berth that becomes quite narrow forward, and as noted in the 1983 review, “a hull that rises so quickly aft that C&Cs normal gas bottle stowage at the end of the cockpit is eliminated.” This on a cruising boat no less, where a hot meal is often the highlight.

Like nearly all the C&C designs, the Landfall 38 is attractively proportioned with sleek lines and a modern look, even several decades later. It appears most dated in the raked bow, but this better suits the anchoring duties on a cruising boat anyway.

Materials and building processes used in C&C Yachts are very similar to those of the Niagara 35, namely because of Hinterhoeller. Practices he established at C&C continued after he left, at least for the short-term. So what we said about the Niagara 35s balsa-core construction also applies to the Landfall 38, where it is found in the hull, deck, and cabintop.

The hull-deck joint is through-bolted on 6-inch centers, through the teak toerail, which gaves the Landfall series a more traditional look than the distinctive L-shaped anodized aluminum toerail Cuthbertson designed and employed on the rest of the C&C models. The joint is bedded with a butyl tape, which does a good job of keeping out water, but doesn’t have the adhesive properties of, say, 3M 5200. On the other hand, if you ever had to remove the deck-heaven forbid!-it would be a lot easier.

Deck hardware is through-bolted with backing plates or large washers, although some of the fasteners come through on the underside, where the core transitions into the core-less flange. We also saw this on our old 1975 C&C 33 test boat. It means two things: water migrating down the fastener after the bedding fails can contact a little bit of balsa, and uneven stresses are placed on the fastener, which above deck can cause gelcoat cracks.

Proper bronze seacocks protect the through-hulls, and hoses are double-clamped for added security. The mast butt is not deep in the bilge where it can corrode in bilge water, but rests on two floor timbers in the sump, above any water that would typically collect.

The external lead-ballast keel is bolted through the keel sump in the hull. Its run is flat, and the boat can sit on its keel, allowing it be careened against a seawall for bottom painting, prop repairs, or other work in locales where boatyards are rare.

In our earlier review, we noted that the engine compartment has no sound insulation, despite its proximity to the owners berth, but gluing in some lead-lined foam is within the capability of most owners.

Despite being 2,000 pounds heavier than the C&C 38, the Landfall 38 is still a quick boat. Its old PHRF rating of 120 is just a little higher than the Cal 39 at 114, and less than the Tartan 37 we’ll look at next.

The mast is a little shorter than that of the C&C 38, but as with most boats of the IOR era, the Landfall 38 has a large foretriangle of 385 square feet. A 150-percent genoa measures 580 square feet, which is a handful for older crew. Roller furling with maybe a 135 percent genoa would be a logical way to minimize the effort required to tack this boat.

Strangely, the Landfall 38 did not come standard with self-tailing winches; a highly recommended upgrade. The main halyard, Cunningham, and reefing lines are led aft to the cockpit, while the headsail halyards run to winches on deck near the mast.

The boat is stiff and well balanced. Owners like the way it handles and appreciate its speed.

The standard engine was a 30-hp Yanmar diesel. The early Yanmar Q series had a reputation for being noisy and vibrating a lot. At some point, C&C began installing the Yanmar 3HM which replaced the 3QM. Power is adequate. The standard prop was a solid two-blade. Engine access leaves a lot to be desired.

The interior is pushed well into the ends of the boat to achieve a legitimate three-cabin accommodation plan. The standard layout was a V-berth forward with cedar-lined hanging locker. The berth narrows quickly forward so that tall people might not find enough foot room. Moving aft, there is a dinette and settees in the saloon, U-shaped galley and large head with shower amidships, and a double berth in the port quarter, opposite a navigation station. In rainy or wild weather, youll want to close the companionway hatch and keep weather boards in place so that water doesn’t spill into the nav station. Installing Plexiglas screens on either side of the ladder will help.

Oddly, there is no place to install fixed-mount instruments outboard of the nav table; that space is given to a hanging locker, but could be modified. Other than this, about the only other shortcoming is that the toilet is positioned so far under the side deck that persons of average size cannot sit upright. And, the head door is louvered, which compromises privacy.

There is not a lot to complain about with the Landfall 38 that we havent already said: the V-berth forward is tight, theres no sitting upright on the toilet, theres no place to install electronics at the nav station, and the nav station and aft berth invite a good soaking through the companionway.

Construction is above average, but have a surveyor sound the hull and decks for signs that the fiberglass skins have delaminated from the balsa core. Small areas can be repaired, but our advice is not to buy a boat with widespread delamination.

Landfall 38 Conclusion

The Landfall 38 is an excellent family boat and coastal cruiser. Its popularity in the Great Lakes region is not surprising. Island hopping to the Caribbean is also within reach, but any longer cruises will likely require more tank capacity and stowage. Standard tankage is 104 gallons water and 32 gallons of fuel. Prices range from around $55,000 to $65,000.

TARTAN 37: shoal draft and S&S styling.

In the early years of fiberglass boat construction, the major builders-Columbia, Cal, Morgan, Tartan, and others-commissioned well-known naval architects to design their models. Today, this work is more often done by a no-name in-house team over which the company has more control. Tartan Yachts of Grand River, Ohio, relied almost exclusively on the prestigious New York firm of Sparkman & Stephens; they’d drawn the Tartan 27 for the company’s antecedent, Douglass & McLeod, and were called on again to design the Tartan 37, which had a very successful production run from 1976 to 1988.

The Tartan 37 has the modern, clean, strong lines that typified S&S designs. The bow is raked, and the angle of the reverse transom is in line with the backstay-an easily missed detail that nevertheless affects the viewers impression of the boat. Freeboard is moderate and the sheer is gentle. In an early review, we wrote: “Underwater, the boat has a fairly long, low-aspect ratio fin keel, and a high-aspect ratio rudder faired into the hull with a substantial skeg.” In addition to the deep fin keel, a keel/centerboard also was offered. A distinctive feature is how the cockpit coamings fair into the cabin trunk. Its displacement/length ratio of 299 and sail area/displacement ratio of 16.1 rank it in the middle of the 9-model group (see table, page 9), so while it looks racy, its not going to smoke the other nine.

From its beginning, Tartan Yachts set out to build boats of above average quality, and this can be seen in both the finish and fiberglass work. Some unidirectional rovings were incorporated in the hull laminate to better carry loads; like the vast majority of boats of this era, the resin was polyester. Vinylester skin coats, which better prevent osmotic blistering, had yet to appear. Some printthrough is noticeable, more on dark-color hulls. The hull and deck are cored with end-grain balsa, which brings with it our usual warnings about possible delamination. The hull-deck joint is bolted through the toerail and bedded in butyl and polysulfide. Taping of bulkheads to the hull is neatly executed with no raw fiberglass edges visible anywhere in the interior. Seacocks have proper bronze ball valves. One owner advises checking the complex stainless-steel chainplate/tie rod assembly, especially if its a saltwater boat.

Shortcomings: Pulpit fasteners lack backing plates. Scuppers and bilge pump outlets have no shutoffs.

Under sail, the Tartan 37 balances and tracks well. As noted earlier, its not a fireburner, but not a slug either. Its no longer widely raced, but the few participating in PHRF races around the country have handicaps ranging from 135-177 seconds per mile. The Niagara 35 now rates 150-165, and the C&C 38 126-138.

The deep fin-keel version points a little higher than the keel/centerboard because it has more lift, however, the deep draft of 6 feet, 7 inches is a liability for coastal cruising.

Because of the large foretriangle and relatively small mainsail, tacking a genoa requires larger winches and more muscle than if the relative areas of the two were reversed. For relaxed sailing, jiffy reefing of the main and a roller-furling headsail take the pain out of sail handling.

The 41-horsepower Westerbeke 50 diesel provides ample power. Standard prop was a 16-inch two blade. A folding or feathering propeller reduces drag, thereby improving speed. Access to the front of the engine, behind the companionway ladder, is good. Unfortunately, the oil dipstick is aft, requiring one to climb into the starboard cockpit locker-after you’ve removed all the gear stowed there.

The layout below is straightforward with few innovations: large V-berth forward with hanging locker and drawers; head with sink and shower; saloon with drop-down table, settee, and pilot berth; U-shaped galley to starboard; and to port, a quarterberth that can be set up as a double. To work at the navigation station one sits on the end of the quarterberth. This plan will sleep more crew than most owners will want on board, but its nice to have the option. Pilot berths make good sea berths but often fill with gear that can’t easily be stowed elsewhere.

The fold-down table, like most of its ilk, is flimsy. Underway, tables should be strong enough to grab and hold on to without fear of damaging it or falling-thats not the case here. And the cabin sole is easily marred trying to get the pins in the legs to fit into holes in the sole.

Finish work in teak is excellent, though this traditional choice of wood makes for a somewhat dark interior. Today, builders have worked up the nerve to select lighter species such as ash and maple.

Eight opening portlights, four ventilators, and three hatches provide very good ventilation.

The standard stove was alcohol, which few people want anymore, owing to low BTU content (which means it takes longer to boil water), the difficulty in lighting, and almost invisible flame. Propane is a better choice, but there is no built-in stowage on deck for the tank, which must be in a locker sealed off from the interior and vented overboard. (You could mount the tank exposed on deck, but that would not complement the boats handsome lines.)

Theres not much to pick at here, but we’ll try. Centerboards come with their own peculiar set of problems: slapping in the trunk while at anchor, broken pendants and pivot pins, and fouling in the trunk that inhibits operation.

Often what sets apart higher-quality boats from the rest of the fleet is the cost of materials and labor in making up the wood interior. They look better than bare fiberglass, work better because they have more drawers and stowage options, and are warmer and quieter. The unnoticed flip side is that the joinerwork tends to hide problems, like the source of a leak. When all the fasteners are neatly bunged and varnished, it takes courage to start pulling apart the interior!

Checking engine oil is unnecessarily difficult, and to operate emergency steering gear (a tiller) the lazarette hatch must be held open, which could be dangerous. Lastly, the companionway sill is low for offshore sailing; stronger drop boards would help compensate.

Tartan 37 Conclusion

The enthusiasm for this boat is strong. In fact, theres a whole book written about it, put together with the help of the Tartan 37 Sailing Association (link below). You’ll pay in the mid- to high-$60s, which ranks it with the Niagara 35 and Freedom 36 as the most expensive of our nine. While Tartan 37s have made impressive voyages, and are as capable as the Niagara 35 and C&C Landfall 38, like them, its not really a blue-water design. We view it rather as a smart coastal cruiser and club racer. Good design and above-average construction give it extra long life on the used-boat market.

Classic Cruisers For Less Than $75,000

Niagara 35 Sailnet Forum

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Tartan 37 Sailing Association

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29 comments.

Great article, but why did you leave out your namesake build – Camper Nicholsons Nicholson 35. Very similar to the Niagara 35, except that it trades the (less than useful – my opinion) quarter berths for two GIGANTIC cockpit lockers. And I find the transverse head on the Nic a civilized alternative to telephone booth head/shower combinations.

While the Nic claims 6 berths, you’ll never find that many on ours. Cocktails for 6, dinner for 4, sleeps 2 is our mantra

This is great information and a good guideline to go by. Thanks for the heads up on theses vessels.

Every time Practical Sailor does a review of boats in the 35- to 38-footers built between 1978 and 1984, they always leave out the Perry designed Islander Freeport 36 and 38. Many people are still cruising in these great boats, and among Islander Yachts designs this one is a wonderful cruiser.

I was also sad to see that. We sail a ’79 I-36, and it is stiff, fast, forgiving, and a very comfortable cruising platform. While many of the 800+ built are ready for the wrecking ball, there are some excellent, well cared for boats available. They are lovely sailors.

Couldn’t agree more, with Islander Freeport 36 & 38 raised coachroof that opens up all sort of possibilities and transom based swim ladder, her utility is unmatched.

These are all nice boats. I have sailed most of them. I owned a Tartan 37 for 4 yrs. As A US Sailing Cruising instructor, I have sailed and cruised hundreds of boat. This is one of the best balanced and behaved boats that I have sailed. She will sail on jib alone with no lee helm and sail main alone with minimal weather helm. Few boats will do this. She tracks quite well in a seaway. There are only 2 instances that you need to put the centerboard down: clawing off a lee shore or racing upwind. Otherwise she is just fine with board up. I have not had problems with the board slapping in a rolley anchorage. I keep the board up tight all the way and no problem. And my boat a 1983 had a built in propane vented locker. Also my dipstick was forward port and easy to reach, but not so for the filter so I remote mounted it forward. S & S did a great job on this design. And a 4 foot draft is wonderful and special feature for a boat that sails so well.

Surprising that the author did not address the obvious question, “if you had to pick one of these for a bluewater cruise, which one would it be?”

I too would appreciate the author’s response to this question.

Every time I star liking one of these I see the word ‘balsa’

Why did you not look at the Catalina 36. They are sea kindly; easy to repair and get parts; there’s a lot of them; and newer ones are in the price range you are talking about.i.e. my 2002, well fitted, is $72500.

Good article, thanks.

Pearson 365 conspicuously missing from this list.

Excellent article with factors that almost all of us who own vintage older cruising sailboats have considered at one time or another. However, when making my choice and before putting my money down, I also included PHRF as a factor. Without degenerating into a large discussion of pros and cons of PHRF (or any other indexes of performance), I think that you should consider performance in the equation. While livability is important (and I am a comfort creature), the ability to run away from a storm or handle tough conditions, is also important, you don even mention it. Paraphrasing Bill Lee, “faster is fun”. After weighing all of the factors discussed above, and adding considerations for performance, I purchased a 1984 Doug Peterson designed Islander 40 for $65,000 and am still in love with the boat 15 yrs later. It still is a “better boat than I am a sailor” and is also very comfortable. The only drawback is that it draws 7’6″ which in SF Bay, is not a problem. On the “right coast” that might be a problem, but on the “correct coast” it has not been.

Hate to be picky but you left out of this old list a high quality design and blue water capable cruiser designed and made by quality Canadian company–Canadian Sailcraft, namely CS 36 T. A Sailboat 36.5 feet with all the necessary design and sailing numbers needed to be attractive , safe, and fast.

No one likes to see their favorite boat left off a list like this, but it must be done. But my Ericson 38 has almost none of the cons of the boats in this article, and most of the desireable pros. After 13 years of ownership, it hasn’t even hinted at breaking my heart. Great design pedigree, glassed hull/deck joint, ahead of its time structural grid, points high, extremely liveable interior, and the list goes on…so much so that I’m glad I didn’t buy ANY of the boats in the article instead.

Missing are the CSY 37 and 44. Ernest M Kraus sv Magic Kingdom CSY 44 walkover cutter

Very useful article. Thanks! I’d love to see the same framework for a selection of length 40′-50’ft coastal cruisers.

I know that it is hard to include all boats, but you missed a boat that fills all the requirements. I’m speaking about the Bob Perry designed and Mirage built 35. It has all the capabilities and handling characteristics that you would want in a capable cruiser and the speed of a steady over-performing racer-cruiser. It has 6’5″ headroom and all the standard features that are a must in a strong well built beauty with 5 foot draft, light but rigid and strong. Great for the Chesapeake bay or other depth challenging bodies of water.

Great publication through the year’s. Still miss my print version to read on rainy day. Owned a Cal 27 T-2 and Irwin Citation over the years. Sailed on the Chesapeake. The Irwin ended up in Canada. JA

We have a Swallow Craft Swift 33. The boat was made in Pusan Korea in 1980. For a 33′ boat it is cavernous. We live aboard 1/2 the year. I thought it might be a boat you would be interested in looking at. I call it a mini super cruiser.

How about the Pearson 367?

Surely this is a joke. I’ll put the Nonsuch 30 Ultra against anyone.

Good article, but another vote for the CS36T. No better value for an offshore capable, fast cruiser and built to last.

Great article

The list looks familiar to the list I was working with back around 2004. Back then the prices were even higher of course. To fit my budget, I got a great boat… Freedom 32. That is a Hoyt design from TCI. All I really gave up was some waterline. Below deck, the boat is as roomy as many 35-36 footers due to the beam. I find it to be a great boat for me. I do not see a move up to the sizes on this list to improve my lot. I could be tempted by a Freedom sloop over 44′ but that is retirement noise.

which edition of month/year of the PS Magazine is this covered in please, it would be great to know?

A great article, but what about the Young Sun 35 Cutter! a great offshore boat that I have sailed single handed from Canada to Hawaii and back, single handed, in rough conditions, but which was an incredible 30 days each way. Overall 40 ft. and 11 ft. beam. I believe also built by Bob Perry!

I was sorry to see you left out any offerings from Cape Dory, a Massachusetts-based company that offered sturdy cruising yachts up to 45 feet, many of them designed by Carl Alberg. We’ve enjoyed our Cape Dory 30 cutter on both coasts since the 1980s.

I would be very interested to know what this article would suggest today. For $75,000, should it be a smaller Catalina/Hunter/Beneteau less than 20 years old or would you still recommend an older and maybe larger boat?

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C&C 24 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of C&C 24. Built by C&C Yachts and designed by C&C Design, the boat was first built in 1975. It has a hull type of Fin w/transom hung rudder and LOA is 7.32. Its sail area/displacement ratio 18.62. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

C&C 24 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about C&C 24 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, accomodations, contributions, who designed the c&c 24.

C&C 24 was designed by C&C Design.

Who builds C&C 24?

C&C 24 is built by C&C Yachts.

When was C&C 24 first built?

C&C 24 was first built in 1975.

How long is C&C 24?

C&C 24 is 5.94 m in length.

What is mast height on C&C 24?

C&C 24 has a mast height of 7.16 m.

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C&C 115

• By Tim Murphy
• Updated: May 3, 2006

Rounding the corner at Gray’s Reef during last summer’s Chicago-Mackinac race, I was in the aft cabin of the C&C 115 prototype when shouts from my mates in the cockpit roused me from what was never destined to be a peaceful slumber.

“Thirteen!” cried the helmsman, his eyes on the speedo. On a boat with 33 feet of waterline, that’s a lucky number, indeed. I rolled out and dashed to the deck for the exhilarating run down the Straits of Mackinac to a podium finish.

It was one of several very happy moments aboard the model that would go on to earn accolades as Sailing World’s Overall Boat of the Year for 2006 as well as Best Racer/Cruiser.

C&C Yachts was founded in 1969 by George Cuthbertson and George Cassian in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada. But a fire in 1994 all but ended C&C’s life in Ontario, and in 1998 the folks behind Tartan Yachts bought the name and several molds. From that moment on, C&C’s fate has been intertwined with that of Tim Jackett, the head designer who virtually grew up with Tartan Yachts. Like other recent models, the C&C 115 is his brainchild.

While both Tartan and C&C have historical claims to both sides of the racer/cruiser divide, since coming together under one umbrella, the two lines have been deliberately distinguished. Jackett has tailored the Tartan line toward the cruising end of the spectrum and the C&C more toward the performance end.

Secrets to C&C’s success lie in several strategic choices. The most important of these was the decision to build epoxy boats on a production scale. Epoxy is tricky to work with, but done right, it’s flat-out the best resin with which to build boats: stronger, stiffer, and more resistant to osmosis than either polyester or vinylester. Impregnated, vacuum-bagged, and post-cured in a sandwich with unidirectional E-glass and Core-cell linear-polyurethane- foam coring, these boats start with a top-notch structure. C&C offers four models (the 99, the 110, the 115, and the 121), and Jackett expects to build 40 units of the 115 this year alone.

Another strategic choice was to invest in a facility that builds carbon spars: Every C&C 115 comes standard with a carbon rig. With a tube that’s half the weight of and stiffer than an equivalent aluminum rig, the 115’s weight aloft is markedly diminished, and the boat is that much more stable. The boat’s righting moment at 1 degree is 1,200 foot-pounds.

All of this adds up to a boat with a light-ship displacement-to-weight ratio of 146 and a sail area-to-displacement ratio of 24, based on a 100-percent mainsail and foretriangle. For those who do plan to bang around the buoys, the boat’s IRC rating is 1.07; the PHRF rating is between 63 and 72. What’s it all mean? Fun, that’s what.

Accommodations are simple and elegant–nothing stripped-out here–with a double berth in each end and saloon settees that work as singles. The interior joiner work is finished with a pleasing cherry. A 28-horsepower Yanmar with saildrive quietly delivers ample power.

All in all, you’d be comfortable to take this boat anchoring, but you’d be thrilled to take it sailing.

Tim Murphy is Cruising World’s executive editor.

C&C 115

LOA 37′ 9″ (11.50 m.) LWL 33′ 0″ (10.06 m.) Beam 11′ 11″ (3.63 m.) Draft 6′ 8″ (2.03 m.) Sail Area (100%) 781 sq. ft. (73 sq. m.) Displacement 11,800 lb. (5,352 kg.) Water 70 gal. (265 l.) Fuel 26 gal. (98 l.) Engine 28-hp. Yanmar with saildrive Designer Tim Jackett Sailaway Price $215,000

C&C Yachts (440) 357-7223 www.c-cyachts.com

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C&C 24 - Sailboat Data, Parts & Rigging

Sailboat data, rig dimensions and recommended sail areas for C&C 24 sailboat. Tech info about rigging, halyards, sheets, mainsail covers and more.

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New C&C 24 Project Boat

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I just started on my newest project and can use help from anyone who's tackled anything like this. The boat was a yard derelict for about 6 years and has hull damage (dents with cracks) where the rear pads contact the hull. The yard was not a sailboat yard and, unfortunately (stupidly, if the truth is told) had the tongue of the trailer tipped up which made any water which found its way in over time to migrate to the stern creating an unloading of the keel and loading of the the 2-3 square feet area of the cradle pads. Along with being filthy and having had water standing in it, I think it is very salvageable. It was abandoned by the original owner and is fairly well equippped with a 110, 150, drifter and spinnaker. My first projects have included complete dewatering and removing all interior cushions. I have made an initial inspection of the hull damage and it appears that it is manageable. Along with all of the other goodies, I have the original paperwork which includes the C&C owners manual in a 3-ring binder. I'll be happy to scan and share if anyone has the need. I'll post more as time allows. Murph'  

Nice boat, well worth saving! That is a pretty tough hull, I would be surprised if improper storage could produce anything other than cosmetic damage...if you can get the weight off the pads and sound the area, or have a surveyor do so, I bet you'll find it still solid - just sand and paint and go. Make sure you have clear legal ownership before you pour your heart into fixing her up...  

24 C @ C I have cleaned up and brought a 24 C@C back in shape. Some pictures before would help get an idea of what you have to work with. I was ready to sell it after taking a close look(I bought it on ebay). It cleaned up well and even though it had a surface crack on the port side possibly from a cradle pad the hull is solid and you'll be surprised how seaworthy these boats are. Check the windows as most of them need to be recaulked using an ultraglaze sealant by GE. It is a great boat to singlehand, very versatile and has great lines. Added a autohelm to make singlehanding a breeze(rolller furling came with it). Good luck and send us after pictures, too.  

ahab211 said: I have cleaned up and brought a 24 C@C back in shape. Some pictures before would help get an idea of what you have to work with. I was ready to sell it after taking a close look(I bought it on ebay). It cleaned up well and even though it had a surface crack on the port side possibly from a cradle pad the hull is solid and you'll be surprised how seaworthy these boats are. Check the windows as most of them need to be recaulked using an ultraglaze sealant by GE. It is a great boat to singlehand, very versatile and has great lines. Added a autohelm to make singlehanding a breeze(rolller furling came with it). Good luck and send us after pictures, too. Click to expand...

window seals Thanks, Good to know but I haven't had a problem with this product in two years. 3M 5200 which is also a popular sealant was a disaster and leaked almost immediately. If I have a problem I'll try your suggestion.  

More on the 24 (#2) I decided that an investment in a survey would be wise and have one scheduled for next Monday. While I continue to clean and inspect, I find that it looks very promising with some very iffy areas. I jacked it up enough to take the rear pads off to inspect the dents. While the starboard side is dented with only an apparent first layer crack, the port side has a substantial delamination that runs along the interior bulkhead. While this would be easily repairable in another location, I have my doubts on whether it can be done without removing the bulkhead. I hoping the surveyor can confirm that a repair from the oustide can be done without the need to cut out a whole section. My main concern, and motivation for having an expert take a look, is whether a history of water sitting in the boat has weakened any structure which might jeopardize hull integrity - particularly in the keel attachment structure. Thanks for the tips on rebedding the windows; I'd bet that (over time) quite a bit of the water damage I see was due to either window or chain plate water instrusion. Once I get the go ahead on the inspection, I'll try to post pictures as I proceed. It sure is a shame that a fine boat like this got damaged through neglect.  

I had the survey and verified most everything I already knew but learned quite a bit from the soundings and moisture readings. As I suspected, I have a fair amount of hull moisture - primarily in the bilge area that is with the boat to stay. Fortunately, there was no evidence of any delamination from frozen moisture that affected structural integrity. I was surpirsed that the surveyor suggested I leave the deformed hull in place and build up to fair from the outside with additional layers of glass. While I didn't feel that the water damage to the aft bulkhead was that bad, he suggested that I repair that area. After seeing that I will be unable to access the tabs on the cabin side (although I could on the lazarette side), I have decided to cut out the center lower portion and sister in a partial bulkhead with tabbing only on one side. The sides and outboard sections of the old bulkhead will remain tabbed as-is and I will glass and through-bolt the 3/4" marine ply sister to it with tabbing along the entire bottom and sides on the lazerette side only. Fitting the sister in on the port side will require a bit of trimming since the huge interior dent will intefere. Before I get to doing the outside glass work, I may try jacking and shoring the dents to let them sit for awhile in hopes that they may take a new set in a more normal profile. Here are some photos of the outside of the hull damage: C&C 24 Hull Damage From Improper Trailer Storage  

From the looks of it i would take a pass on this boat. Not to discount what the surveyer said but he's not the one who will be doing the work and its easier said than done. My guess is that these repairs will outweigh the value of the boat, even if the boat and your labour is free. locally I have seen these boats for sale between the $3500-10000 mark, most with simple cosmetic issues and/or old running gear. I bought a previous boat, a mirage 24 (also a c&c design) 8 years ago for 5k.it had a fairly new 10hp honda,new harken furling,fairly new sails and a solid hull and deck with no moisture. when i was at a freinds marina last fall i saw this boat Pat Sturgeon Yachts Search Details , a solid boat that just needs a cleaning. you will likely spend the asking price in materials before the said c&c hits the water. For that area to have dimples that severe its pretty much guaranteed that there is moisture in the core. Also, remember the keel is bolted thru the bottom of the bilge, if there is moisture there and its not repaired it will get worse and make a safety issue as this is a major structural area. The problems will get worse if you dont cut out the damaged areas and remove the wet core as the moisture that is there will spread and eventually cause delamination to any repair you perform. Once the core is wet it will only get worse, you cannot isolate it safely. I personally wouldnt get involved but if you must, you have to do it right or its a waste of effort. If i was tackling this repair i would work from the inside and cut the first layer of glass until all damaged core is exposed. once the core is removed it will make the outer layer of glass easier to work with, then you can build on the outer layer of glass to fair it, lay down some new core and build another layer of glass on the inside. On this boat the bulkheads are bonded to the hull. If you "patch" the bulkheads this will take away from the structural integrity of the boat and eventually the repair will fail. You would have to cut out the headliner around the area for access and then remove everything attached to the bulkhead.you can then make a duplicate of the bulkhead and bond it to the hull and then glass your headliner back in and reinstall what was removed. What did the surveyor have to say about the deck, mast step and cockpit floor? Just talking about this makes me itchy.  

Owners Manual Hi Captainmurph, I am about to purchase a c&c 24 on thursday. I have been looking around for as much information on this as possible and I came across your note saying that you had the original owners manual. I would very much appreciate a copy if you wouldn't mind. Any information I find, I will forward to you as well. Although you sound like your fairly familiar with everything already. Thanks in advance.  

I might not get around to scanning the whole thing any time soon, so let me know if there is specific information you need. It will be a month or so before I am able to splash this one and see how it sails but I understand they are farily nimble and comfortable. Let me know if you have an specific questions. Murph  

Iceman, send me a PM with your email and I'll send you the PDF version iof the manual for the 24. Cheers  

Thanks Gotivm, But when I bought the boat I got the manuals with it. I appreciate the reply though. Thanks again.  

Manuals for C & C 24 Anyone have any manuals? I just purchased a 1977 24, and am going to need whatever help I can get.  

pm me your email address and I'll send it over.  

C & C 24 Unable to PM, not enough posts, I just joined Sailnet a few days ago  

C & C 24 Email is mike23r55 AT comcast DOT net  

If anyone needs parts for a 1977 C&C 24, I gave up on selling mine whole and am beginning to part it out this week. Not looking forward to cutting up a perfectly good boat but at least the parts will be available to help keep other boats on the water.  

Thanks for posting your video Jeep...that look like a good old boat...too bad...but at least some other folks will be happy to have some parts...Still hate to see 'em chopped up but I get where you are coming from..>Some day there wont be nearly as many fiberglass boats like this anymore...and the new ones will be 80 grand bare bones no frills...that day is not far off...Thanks again though for posting a good video.  

Hello Jeep Collector 91, Regarding the C&C 24 I would like to buy a few things if you still have that bout. I can not buy the whole peace but considering buying a few things if we come to an agreement. Please, feel free to send me an e-mail at [email protected] or call 646 429 2441. I sow your movie on you tube unfortunately it did not have any contact info so I am hopping to reach you trough this website. The things I am interested are: 1.Sails 2.The wood peace b/n the U cabin and sleeping area in the front(it starts from one side of the cabin goes to the top & finishes to the other side. It looks like house shoe with extensions on the side) 3.The leather on the port side of the boat I think. 4.cushions 5.electrical system and other things I might think of later please let me know.  

Captainmurph: Do you still have a manual for this boat? Specifically, I need the wiring diagram, as the mast was replaced, and the new one has a different plug than the boat. When I unwrapped the wire coming out of the cabin, it has 4 wires, and the white one is broken below the outside shell. The remaining wires are green, blue, and yellow, and I can't find any of them going back to the fuse panel, or anywhere that I can locate .. The mast itself only has 2 wires, going up to the mast light. I am wondering...what are the extra wires coming out of the cabin, can I use one of them as the main wire to the mast light.  

Re: New C&C 24 Project Boat (Wiring Diagram) You'll find the C&C 24 wiring diagrams in this PDF. I think it will solve your issues; as I remember there was some confusion on my boat as the four wires coming from the cabin switch box didn't match the colors going up the mast. These three pages show everything you need. Murph http://mascom.com/C&C/C&C_24_Wiring.pdf  

Thank you so much, this is a huge help. If all the lights listed were on the mast, I would now know what they are for. As it is, the only light on the mast is the masthead light, so I managed to use the yellow wire, and moved it in the panel to masthead spot. Can you look up and tell me what size wire I am supposed to have for the stays/ shrouds? The ones on the mast are too short, and I don't trust that they are the right thickness. Before I spend the money to replace them, I want to make sure I get the right ones, they seem pretty small (1/8").  

All the standing rigging on the 24 is 3/16" 1x19 I believe.  

Paul is right: 3/16, 1x19  

Thanks to both of you. I am so glad I asked. The ones on the mast are all 1/8, which means they all have to be replaced. Scary, though. Don't know if they would have survived my first sail with this boat. Would it be possible to send me a copy of the manual? I had one, but it burnt up with my house in Connecticut, and don't want to spend another $25 for another.  

I'm just about to close a purchase on a '76 C&C 24 without a manual. Does anyone here still have a copy?  

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