best yacht anchor chain

The Ultimate Guide To Anchors And Anchor Chain

You may have seen it already over July 4th weekend: a boater going for his/her ground tackle in a hurry only to be stopped by knots, tangles, or an anchor that is not connected properly.

Embarrassment and inconvenience aside, mismanagement of your anchoring system has the potential to cause serious damage. Besides the obvious use of anchoring up at the sandbar, an anchor also serves as an emergency brake. When you need it, you need it right away, and it must work for you.   Failure is a dangerous non-option, so in these two articles we will discuss how to keep you safe and your “e-brake” in working order.

What makes up your anchoring system?

Let’s start with what should be a refresher for most of us: some anchoring system terms. These terms are part of the vocabulary we need for discussing anchors. We will also highlight the components of the anchoring system and share tips and rules of thumb to help with anchoring product selection and best practices.

The length of galvanized metal links used to connect the anchor to the rode. The most common chain coil is BBB rated with thicker, shorter links that are stronger than standard proof chain. Chain is used for its weight and chafe protection. The chain helps the anchor to set and the rode to lie horizontally.

The long length of nylon rope with an eye splice and thimble which is attached to the anchor chain.

Anchor line comes in three-strand, braided, or 8-plait styles. The three-strand variety is popular with boaters because it absorbs shock better than braided and is less likely to fray or get cut on rocks or jagged bottoms.

Anchor line is available in various diameters and lengths depending on your boat. The larger the boat, the wider and longer the anchor line required. There are many options to consider when picking your anchor rope.

The anchor line and anchor chain combined.

Anchor Shackle

The metal load-bearing connector between the anchor chain and the anchor.

Choose a high-quality shackle that can withstand stress. Hot dip galvanized metal shackles are the most sturdy and durable.

A pivoting metal connector that some boaters install next to the anchor shackle.

Swivels are designed to release the twist in the anchor chain as it comes onboard so it will flake into the locker more easily and be ready to redeploy rapidly. Swivels are a hotly debated topic among boaters due to the potential for catastrophic failure of the swivel under high loads.

An additional length of line attached to the anchor chain and deck mooring hardware.

Snubbers help absorb shock while anchored in swells or high-wake areas. This takes strain off the windlass and deck. Snubbers are commonly used on boats deploying all-chain rodes.

Ground Tackle

All anchoring related equipment including the anchor, anchor chain, anchor line, shackles, and connectors.

The ratio of the length of anchor rode deployed to the vertical distance between the sea floor and the point where your anchor rode comes on board.

Aim for a 5:1 scope ratio minimum, although a 7:1 ratio is preferable given the room. The lower the ratio, the greater the chance your anchor may drag.

Holding power

The amount of pull force an anchor can withstand while remaining set.

Holding power is expressed in pounds and can be measured with a strain gauge. Heaver anchors and anchors with large fluke areas tend to have higher holding power.

Metal weight of any kind that is attached at some point along your anchor rode.

This ballast weight is also known as an anchor buddy/rider/chum/angel. The weight of the kellet used depends on the size of the boat. Kellets are a controversial and debated solution designed to help anchors set and avoid dragging as well as to dampen the surge from swells or wake.

The curve of the anchor rode between the boat and the anchor.

A low angle of pull on the anchor maintains the catenary curve and provides energy absorption. Due to their weight, chain rodes have good catenary curves in light to medium winds, however in strong winds, the chain goes taut and loses its curve, offering no energy absorption.

Setting The Hook: Things To Consider When Selecting An Anchor

With all the anchoring system components fresh in our minds, it is time to apply them and select the right anchor . Three variables to consider during anchor selection are:

As a rule, your anchor chain should be at least as long as your boat, but no shorter than 10 to 15-feet. Your anchor line length will depend on anchoring depth. If you will be anchoring in deeper water, you will need enough rode to achieve a proper scope ratio. The rule of thumb is to plan 8-feet of line per 1-foot of anchoring depth.

Where you anchor makes a difference. What are the currents, winds, and tides like? Will you be anchoring in protected waters? Select your anchoring equipment based on the type of locations and conditions in which you will be deploying your anchor.

Do you have a clean bottom?   What does your bottom surface consist of?   This determines not only holding power but also what anchor works best for the bottom you are anchoring in. Some anchors like a pivoting-fluke or non-hinged scoop do well in sand while others with broad flukes are best in mud. Consider a plow-shaped or grapnel anchor to dig into rocky bottoms and a heavy anchor for difficult shale, clay, and grass bottoms.

Anchor Types and Uses

Anchors come in six different types, and as we learned, the best anchor for you will depend on your boat, your location, and the sea bottom. Whichever type of anchor you choose, ensure you consult manufacturer guidelines to select an anchor weight that is heavy enough for your boat. The six types of anchors are:

Three claws help the claw or Bruce anchor dig into most types of bottoms, including rock. Note that you need a heavier anchor for your boat size to get a good set. The lower price of a claw anchor makes it a common choice with recreational boaters.

Danforth/Fluke

Pivoting flukes help this anchor bury itself in soft bottoms with grass or mud. A Danforth, or fluke type of anchor stows flat and is often used in smaller boats where space is at a premium.

The fixed upright flukes of the grapnel dig into many bottom types and offer a better hold than a standard fluke anchor in harder bottoms. A light version of a grapnel anchor can be a good choice for smaller boats.

The rounded bottom of a mushroom anchor simply rests on the seabed, making it best for small craft, canoes, and kayaks in waters with flat, even sea bottoms.

The sharp point of a plow anchor digs into rocky bottoms or those covered in grass and weeds. Plow anchors may also be called CQRs or wing anchors. They are common on larger boats that are anchoring in varying conditions and types of sea bottoms.

The newest anchor type – the scoop – works in many bottom types and has high holding power. Scoop anchors are designed to be easier to set and reset than other anchor types. Scoops are available in Rocna, Spade, or Manson configurations.

Most Common Anchoring Mistakes

Time to learn from others’ mishaps. Watch out for these common errors that boaters make when selecting or deploying their anchoring system:

• Not securing the bitter end of the anchor line – usually seen on smaller day cruisers
• Improperly sized anchor for size of boat or conditions
• Wrong anchor for sea bottom
• Not enough scope
• Not enough chain

The Takeaways

Your boat’s anchoring system is like the emergency brake on a vehicle. When you need it, you can’t afford for it to fail. Set yourself up for anchoring success by outfitting your boat with the proper anchor, rode, and other components for the boat size, boating location, and type of sea bottom you expect to anchor in.

When you get ready to anchor, confirm your anchor line is properly secured to the boat and set with sufficient scope so the anchor won’t drag. Following these basic guidelines will help ensure your time on the water is as safe as possible.

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Understanding Anchor Chain

• By Steve D'Antonio
• Updated: October 2, 2019

All chain’s the same, right? Well, no. There’s actually a variety of types and grades of anchor chain that cruising sailors should know about. What follows is a primer on understanding anchor chain and how to use it properly.

Types of Anchor Chain

Your Chain Explained

The most popular varieties of galvanized-steel windlass chain include high-test or grade 40 (usually marked HT, G4, or HT4); triple B or grade 30 (marked as BBB or 3B); and proof coil, also grade 30 (often marked PC, PC3, or G3). Each has attributes and shortcomings. BBB and proof coil are made from low-carbon steel; heat-treated high-test is made from a high carbon-manganese alloy.

HT chain is widely used because of its “strength-to-link” factor: Its working load limit is nearly twice that of BBB chain, and it has the highest weight-to-working load ratio. In other words, it allows the use of a thinner link, which means more chain can be stored in a given chain locker. Its links are also windlass calibrated, which means that they should fit any wildcat with an “HT” designation. Such links also tend to resist tangling in the locker.

Most PC chain is designated as “non-calibrated for windlass use.” This means it’s not designed to be used with a windlass wildcat. Period. Unfortunately, this caveat is unlikely to be stamped directly on the chain, so you can never be certain if the chain falls into this category. (If chain is verifiably approved for your windlass, it may be used for anchor rodes.) PC chain has roughly the same working load as BBB chain and the same number of links per foot as HT; for 3/8-inch chain, the ratio is 9.8 links per foot of chain. It’s worth noting that some windlass manufacturers, for obvious reasons, don’t offer a PC wildcat. If someone offers you a pile of cheap PC chain, beware.

Most high-quality chain from reputable manufacturers is embossed with a designation indicating the grade. Without one, you’ll be guessing about the chain’s strength. Failing to use chain designed for a specific windlass wildcat can lead to potentially dangerous overrides (above). This chain is in no-man’s land: It can’t be lowered or raised.

At one time, though not the strongest option for a given link size, BBB was the most popular anchor chain because it’s specifically calibrated for windlasses. But its primary attribute is its weight. A 100-foot length of 3/8-inch BBB weighs approximately 165 pounds, while identical lengths of HT and PC weigh 153 and 140 pounds, respectively. With anchor rodes, weight is critical. Every additional pound increases a chain’s catenary, the sag induced by the deployed chain. Still, many builders and sailors choose HT over BBB because, for the same tensile strength, they can fit more of it into cramped chain lockers. And, again, it’s less prone to tangle.

Maintaining Your Marine Chain

Inspect your marine chain carefully and regularly. Make certain that the links fit evenly into each recess of the wildcat and that the wildcat is equipped with a stripper, a steel bar that separates tensioned chain from the wildcat as it’s being retrieved. If the stripper is absent or bent, jams are more likely to occur. Finally, be sure that the bitter end of the chain is attached to the vessel via a spliced-on section of line that’s long enough to reach the deck. The splice should fit easily through the chain hawser. If you’re dragging onto a lee shore or you’re about to be run down, this line acts as a safety valve allowing you to quickly cut the boat free from the ground tackle.

To read more monthly maintenance tips, click here.

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Boat Anchor Chain – 11 Things You Should Know

A boat anchor chain is one of the most important pieces of equipment on a boat. The chain attaches the anchor to the boat and provides a strong connection that can hold against even the strongest winds and waves. It’s important to choose a quality chain that will withstand wear and tear over time.

When choosing for a boat anchor chain, be sure to consider the thickness and strength of the metal. The thicker and stronger the chain, the more reliable it will be in difficult conditions. Also look for corrosion-resistant coating to protect it from rusting.

How is anchor chain made

When you’re cruising along and drop your anchor, you’re relying on a piece of equipment known as an anchor chain. This chain is made up of heavy-duty links that connect the anchor to the boat. It’s important to know how this crucial piece of equipment is made.

The process of making this chain begins with steel billets. These billets are heated until they are molten and then formed into chains. The chains are then put through a series of machines that polish and straighten them. They are also treated with a coating that helps to protect them from corrosion.

The links in an this chain can be up to nine inches long and weigh up to 14 pounds each. The entire chain can weigh more than 2,000 pounds.

Types of boat anchor chains

When it comes to boat anchor chains, there are three main types: galvanized, stainless steel, and nylon coated. The main difference between these chains is the material used in their construction. 

Galvanized chains are made of zinc-plated steel. This makes them less likely to corrode in salt water environments. However, they are also the heaviest and most expensive to consider.

Stainless steel chains are resistant to rust and corrosion. They are also lighter than galvanized chains, but more expensive. 

Nylon coated chains offer the best resistance to corrosion and abrasion. They are also lightweight and affordable.

Boat anchor chain size

When it comes to boat anchors, size does matter. The weight of the anchor is critical, but the size of the chain is also important. You don’t want to use a small chain with a large anchor, or a large chain with a small anchor.

The right size chain will help you set your anchor quickly and keep it in place. It’s also important to use a chain that is strong enough to hold your boat in place during high winds and rough seas.

The most common size for boat anchor chains is 5/16 inch. This size is strong enough to hold most boats in place, but it’s also lightweight and easy to handle. If you have a larger boat, you may want to use a chain that is 3/8 or 1/2 inch thick.

How much anchor chain do you need

Anchors and chains are important pieces of safety gear for any boat. It is important to know how much anchor chain you need for your boat in order to ensure that you have the proper weight and length of chain.

The first step is to determine the size of your anchor. This can be done by consulting your boat’s owner’s manual or by measuring the anchor itself. Once you have the size of your anchor, you can then use a chart to find out how much chain is needed.

Most boats will need between 50 and 100 feet of chain, depending on the size of the anchor and the depth of the water. It is also important to make sure that you have enough rope or line to attach the chain to the bow of your boat.

How to attach chain to anchor

When anchoring a boat, it is important to use a heavy chain to ensure the boat stays in place. The chain should be attached to the anchor and the anchor should be attached to the boat. There are several ways to do this.

One way is to use an iron shackle. This is a metal clip that can be opened and closed. The shackle can be attached to the chain and then attached to the anchor.

Another way is to use a swivel clip. This is a metal clip with a swivel on it. The swivel allows the clip to move around so that it can attach easily to both the chain and the anchor.

A third way is to use an anchor bridle. This is a piece of rope with loops on each end. One loop goes around the anchor and the other goes around the chain.

When to replace anchor chain

Anchor chain should be inspected regularly for signs of wear and tear. If the chain is worn or damaged, it needs to be replaced.

It’s important to know when to replace it. If the chain is heavily corroded, damaged, or has links that are missing or broken, it needs to be replaced. Another indication that it might be time for a new chain is if your current one doesn’t have enough length to reach the bottom in the area where you normally anchor. 

When replacing it, make sure you get the right size and type of chain for your boat.

How to choose the right anchor chain

When you’re looking for a new anchor chain, there are a few things you need to keep in mind.

The size of the boat or ship

When you are looking to buy anchor chain, it is important to consider the size of your boat or ship. If you have a smaller boat, you don’t need as much chain as someone with a larger boat. You also need to make sure that the chain is strong enough to hold your boat in place. 

The size of an anchor chain refers to the diameter of the links in the chain. A larger diameter will provide more strength and stability than a smaller diameter. It’s also important to make sure that the weight of the chain is appropriate for your boat. A heavy chain can cause problems with stability and maneuverability.

Materials of the chain

When you are choosing an anchor chain, you need to consider the material of the chain. One popular option for anchor chain material is stainless steel. Stainless steel is corrosion resistant and has a high breaking strength. However, it can be expensive and it is heavier than some other materials. 

Another option for this chain material is galvanized steel. Galvanized steel is less expensive than stainless steel and also corrosion resistant, but it does not have as high a breaking strength as stainless steel. 

Finally, some people choose to use nylon rope for their anchor chain. Nylon rope is lightweight and has a low breaking strength, but it is also very affordable.

The weight of the anchor

Whe weight of the anchor should be a major consideration when purchasing. Lighter anchors need lighter chain, while heavier anchors require heavier chain. If you choose an anchor that is too light for the chain you have, your anchor will not be able to set properly and could easily break free in a storm. 

If you choose an anchor that is too heavy for your chain, you could overload your system and cause damage to your boat or even worse, lose your boat.

The type of seabed

When choosing anchor chain, it is important to consider the type of seabed where you will be using it.

If you will be anchoring in sand or mud, you will need a heavy-duty chain with a large diameter. A chain with a small diameter will quickly become clogged with sediment and may not hold your boat in place. 

If you will be anchoring in rock, you will need a light-duty chain with a small diameter. A chain with a large diameter will cause damage to the rocks and may not hold your boat in place.

It’s also important to make sure that your chain is long enough to reach the bottom of the water where you will be anchoring.

Consider Price

Heavier and larger anchors are in general tend to be more expensive, but they are also more durable and can hold onto the bottom better in strong winds and currents.

If you’re looking for an anchor that will serve you well in a variety of conditions, it may be worth spending a little extra money on a high-quality model. However, if you’re only going to use your boat in calm waters, a less expensive option may be sufficient.

Where to buy anchor chain

If you are in the market for a new anchor chain, there are a few places you can buy it. The first place to look is usually an online retailer. There are a few reputable retailers that sell anchor chains, and they usually have a variety of sizes and lengths to choose from.

Another option is to go to a local marine store. These stores typically carry a wide variety of boat supplies, including anchor chains. They may also have anchors for sale, so it is worth checking out their inventory if you need both items.

Finally, you could also try looking for a salvage company in your area. These businesses typically sell used boat parts, and they may have an anchor chain or two available for purchase. Just be sure to ask about the condition of the chain before you buy it!

Boat anchor chain maintenance tips

Boat anchors are a necessary piece of equipment for any vessel, but proper care and maintenance is required to keep them functioning properly. One important part of anchor maintenance is keeping the chain healthy. The following tips can help you do just that:

• Inspect the chain regularly for signs of wear and tear. This includes looking for kinks, rust, and broken links.
• If you find any damage, remove the chain from service immediately and have it repaired by a qualified professional.
• Use a mild soap or detergent to clean the chain occasionally, making sure to rinse it thoroughly afterwards.
• Apply a coat of lubricant to the chain every few months to help keep it moving freely. You can apply coat of naval jelly to the links of the chain if you want. This will help to prevent corrosion. 
• Store the anchor and chain in a dry place when not in use.
• Never overload the chain or allow it to come into contact with sharp objects.
• Make sure all connections between links are tight and secure. Loose connections can cause chains to break under stress.
• If you have an electric windlass, make sure to keep it clean and well lubricated.
• Keep an extra anchor on hand, in case you need to replace one that is damaged or worn out.
• Practice using your anchors regularly, so that you’ll be familiar with how they work in different conditions.

Anchor chain vs Rope

The debate between anchor chain and rope has been around for years. Some people swear by anchor chains while others prefer ropes. So, what’s the difference?

Anchor chains are made of metal and typically weigh more than ropes. They are also less elastic, meaning they don’t stretch as much under tension. This makes them better suited for holding boats in place in windy or choppy waters. Anchor chains also tend to corrode less than ropes, making them a more durable option.

Ropes, on the other hand, are made of fibrous materials and can be lighter than chains. They are also more elastic, meaning they can stretch more under tension. This makes them better suited for tying down objects in calm waters. Ropes also tend to fray over time, while chains do not.

If your boat is heavy, then you’ll need a stronger anchor chain. A rope might not be able to hold the weight of your boat. However, if your boat is lightweight, then a rope will be just fine.

Another thing you need to consider is the type of bottom you’re anchored in. If you’re in mud or sand, an anchor chain will sink down and grip the bottom much better than a rope will.

Related: Which of the following must you do anchoring a boat at night? – 07 Things 

Stainless steel vs Galvanised anchor chain: Which is better?

When selecting an anchor chain for your boat, there are a few things you need to take into consideration. The two main types of chains are stainless steel and galvanised. So, which one should you choose?

Stainless steel anchors are made of high-quality steel that is resistant to rust and corrosion. This means they will last longer than galvanised anchors. They are also a little heavier, which can be a disadvantage when trying to lift them up off the bottom.

Galvanised anchors, on the other hand, are coated with a layer of zinc that protects them from rust and corrosion. This makes them less durable than stainless steel anchors, but they are much lighter in weight. This can be an advantage when trying to manoeuvre them into place.

However, if you live in a dry climate or your boat is stored in a covered area, galvanised chain would be fine. It’s also cheaper than stainless steel chain. If you live in a coastal area or plan to use your boat in salt water, we recommend opting for a stainless steel chain. Galvanised chain is fine for use in fresh water only.

Conclusion of Boat Anchor Chain

Boat anchor chains are an important part of any boat. They keep the boat anchored in one spot and prevent it from drifting. It is important to choose the right chain for your boat and make sure that it is properly attached.

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Clearance LIROS Racer Dyneema £55.08

Clearance Folding Stock Anchor £123.25

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Clearance LIROS Herkules £0.00

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Mooring Clearance

Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance.

These are the five basic choices that you need to make to determine the optimum anchor chain for your individual requirements.

• Hot Dip Galvanised or Stainless Steel
• Grade (strength)
• Chain Size and Calibration
• Chain Manufacturer

Galvanised or Stainless Steel?

Hot dip galvanised.

Hot Dip Galvanising was developed over 50 years ago and is still the most prevalent finish for anchors and chains for motor and sailing yachts.

Hot Dip Galvanising is not just a surface treatment. Hot Dipping in molten zinc forms a multi-layered, deep-seated fusion with the steel, which means that the natural abrasion caused by anchoring will only have a gradual effect.

However, all galvanising will eventually go rusty. In fact, rust stains will likely appear immediately after introducing your brand new shiny galvanised chain into a wet, salty, or potentially contaminated environment, e.g. your chain locker.

More in-depth information on galvanising treatment and what to expect from your chain is covered in these articles: How Does Galvanising Work?

Galvanising - Managing your Expectations

If you want your anchor to look pristine on the bow roller and your chain spotlessly blemish-free on deck or in the chain locker, then a high-grade stainless may be your best choice.

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel calibrated anchor chain is available in G3 and G4, around three times the price of galvanised Grade 40.

Grade 6 and Grade 6+ offer supreme quality in stainless steel anchor chain, with the added option of an electro-polished finish to provide the ultimate resistance to marine degradation.

Staining can occur on stainless steel, despite the name, but this can be removed with a specialist cleaning agent – this is very simple to use and does not require any drying or polishing.

The smoother, slippier finish of stainless steel chain may help dispersal in the chain locker compared with the grippier surface of galvanised chain.

Mix and Match

Galvanised and stainless steel are commonly joined together in your anchoring system, but you should remember there may be a galvanic reaction between the two. This is not necessarily a problem, but it is a good idea to have an understanding of what can happen over a period of time.

Further information on the effect of mixing your steels: Galvanic reaction between stainless and galvanised

What Grade of Chain do I require?

The Grade dictates the linear strength of the steel and, correspondingly, the break load of the chain.

Grades are comparable between mild and stainless steel, although stainless is generally expressed with a simple G as a prefix rather than Grade, e.g. G4 equates to Grade 40 Galvanised chain is generally available in Grade 30, Grade 40, and Grade 70.

Jimmy Green Marine doesn’t stock G3 or Grade 30, opting for the higher break load Grades 40 and 70 for motor and sailing yacht anchoring.

Stainless is available from Jimmy Green in G4 and the higher grades G6 and G6+.

Jimmy Green Marine has compiled a Chain Break Load Comparison Chart for all our chains.

A general comparison between generic Grade 30 and Grade 40 is also included.

It is worth noting that cases of chain failing are extremely rare but worth avoiding because a disastrous breakage may occur during severe weather. Failure is much more likely to happen at the connection point between the anchor and the chain. It is always recommended to employ a manufacturer break load-rated solution, and this article covers the subject in greater depth: Anchor to Chain Connection Guide

What Size and Calibration of Chain do I need?

This depends on the grade you choose, your yacht length, windage, and displacement, your anticipated cruising plans, and your corresponding reliance on anchoring. In Europe, we have metric sizing in 1mm or 2mm increments, e.g. 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm. This article explains how to establish the correct chain size for your requirements, with a benchmark guide in a clear table format: Anchor Rode Size Guide

Chain Calibration

There are two main calibrations of anchor chains in Europe: DIN766 and ISO4565.

Calibrated means that every link is guaranteed to be the same length and size within a certain tolerance.

This is extremely important if you have a windlass. The chain calibration needs to be compatible with the windlass gypsy.

There is more reading on Calibration: Calibrated Anchor Chain General InformatioN in our Knowledge Centre  how to find out which calibration you need: What is the correct calibration?

How long should my Anchor Chain be?

The total length of your rode will depend on the depth of water that you anticipate encountering on your cruises.

An Anchor Rode can be a rope and chain combination, varying in proportion according to your needs, or all chain.

The choice ranges from these two examples:

A long warp and a short chain for those who still haul in the rode by hand or for relatively light load applications, e.g. a kedge anchor, especially an aluminium anchor or a ‘lunch hook.’

In this case, the chain may only be around 5 metres

All chain for extended cruising where reliance on anchoring is paramount.

A very good case can be made to compromise between the two, especially where weight or space in the chain locker is limited.

Another option is a short piece of warp at the bitter end of a long chain length. This provides a degree of elasticity should all the chain be required in extremis and a neat means of attachment in the chain locker.

Generally speaking, the chain lengths we supply for extended cruising are getting longer. A total rode length of 80 metres is now quite the norm, with 100 metres becoming increasingly popular. Recently, the trend has been as long as 120 metres. 

There are traditional ‘rules of thumb’ for calculating the length of rode as a multiple factor of the sea depth, but they don’t work well for very shallow or deep water. They are also a little outdated with the popularity of bigger yachts and ocean passage-making.

The main parameters for deciding on the overall length are covered in the anchor rode size article (link above), but there are also more insights into the decision-making process in this article: Anchoring System Assessment

How do I choose between Chain Manufacturers?

Trust in the brand.

The first principle in the selection process is to purchase a recognised brand.

Provenance will be important for your peace of mind when relying on your anchor chain to ride out inclement weather conditions.

Calibrated anchor chain for the European Marine Industry is generally manufactured in Europe or the Far East.

Unfortunately, there are no calibrated anchor chain manufacturers in the UK, only importers or former manufacturers who now only import their chain.

There is a stigma regarding manufacturing in the Far East, but the truth is that many of the world-recognised UK and European manufacturer brands in the leisure marine industry have their products manufactured all over the world and import them from far afield. This list is not exhaustive and doesn’t relate exclusively to chain, but it is indicative of some of the countries where manufacturing costs are/have been traditionally lower than the UK/Europe: China, Thailand, India, Brazil, and Turkey. However, the huge increase in transportation costs caused by the pandemic has certainly eroded a proportion of that saving.

The respectability, credibility, and trustworthiness of the manufacturer brand are extremely important, but the same is also true of your chosen retailer because if there is an issue with your purchase, you will be dependent on them both to be supportive.

For example, it is widely known that although the Rocna anchor is made in China, the quality is consistently good. The quality control and any necessary support are upheld by the ‘brand’ and through the network of their distributors.

The Titan brand is upheld by CMP, the manufacturers of both Titan chain and the Rocna anchor.

Please note that you don’t need to match your chain to your windlass by manufacturer because it is the calibration that is all important, but if you don’t have any other preference, it may make reasonable sense, e.g. Lofrans, world-renowned for the quality of their windlasses manufactured in their factory in Italy. N.B. Lofrans chain is manufactured in China, just like Titan.

If you prefer to buy your chain that is manufactured in Europe, MF Catenificio is leading the way in terms of innovation with their Solid Zinc duplex Hot Dip Galvanising process. MF manufacture their chain in Italy.

All our chain comes with a test certificate. A copy of the certificate appertaining to the specific batch from which your length was cut is available on request.

Galvanising Quality

All Jimmy Green Marine chain is sourced from reputed brands. The predominant focus for Jimmy Green Marine and our customers is on the galvanising quality and how long it will last without rusting.

Chain manufacturers do not generally have an in-house galvanisation plant. Galvanising is normally subcontracted to an external provider, usually local, to keep transportation costs to a minimum. 

We have seen galvanising from countless manufacturers over four decades of selling anchor chains. All of them have had batches with galvanising issues at one time or another. All our chain is visually inspected when it arrives, and any length that doesn’t pass our quality control check is set aside and reported back to the manufacturer.

The visual inspection is to identify any fused links, an unacceptably rough finish, and any blemishes. If you have read the article on the galvanising process, you will understand that seemingly bare patches should still have effective galvanising protection.

There is more information on Quality Control in this article: Jimmy Green Quality Control Process

Any rejected lengths may end up on the website at a reduced price with full details to ensure potential customers are fully aware of the potential issues.

If you are not happy with your chain, bearing in mind that the appearance of all galvanising changes as soon as it encounters seawater, please bring it to our attention. We follow a process of reporting the problem to the distributor or directly to the manufacturer, as appropriate. We act on your behalf to secure the best possible outcome. On occasion, despite our best efforts, the claim may be refused or ignored. At this point, if we believe that the customer is justified in their complaint, we will endeavour to help at our own cost.

This article will help you to understand what to expect from the galvanising on your chain: Galvanising appearance, performance and endurance

Stainless Quality

This is directly related to the grade.

G3 is adequate for anchoring in temperate waters.

G4 is a step up in quality and strength from G3, and G4 is consequently what Jimmy Green prefers to stock.

Cromox recommends their G6 for temperate waters but only G6+ for warm waters.

The Cromox electro-polishing option is a value-for-money method of extending the finish and working life of their G6 and G6+ stainless.

When to Change Your Anchor Chain and How to Choose the Right One

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Ahoy, fellow sea lovers! 🌊 If you’re reading this, chances are you’re either a proud yacht owner or someone who dreams of sailing the high seas someday. Either way, welcome aboard! Today, we’re diving deep (pun intended) into the world of anchor chains. We’ll discuss when to replace them, how to choose the perfect one, and some nifty nuances you might not be aware of. So, grab your captain’s hat, and let’s set sail!

1. The Importance of a Reliable Anchor Chain

Before we delve into the specifics, let’s talk about why anchor chains are so crucial. Imagine you’re anchored in a beautiful bay, sipping on a cold drink, and enjoying the sunset. The last thing you want is to be drifting away because of a faulty anchor chain. It’s not just about keeping your boat in place; it’s about safety, peace of mind, and ensuring your vessel remains undamaged.

2. When to Change Your Anchor Chain

Like everything on your yacht, anchor chains don’t last forever. Here are some signs it’s time for a change:

• Visible Wear and Tear: If you notice any kinks, bent links, or excessive rust, it’s a clear sign your chain has seen better days.
• Difficulty in Operation: If the chain doesn’t run smoothly through the windlass or gets jammed often, consider checking it for wear.
• Age: Even if you don’t see visible signs of wear, if your chain is over 10 years old, it’s a good idea to inspect it thoroughly or consider replacement.

3. Choosing the Right Anchor Chain

Now, onto the fun part! Here’s what you need to consider:

• Material: The most common materials are galvanized steel, stainless steel, and high-tensile steel. Galvanized steel is popular due to its resistance to rust, while stainless steel is both rust-resistant and shiny (for those who like a bit of bling!). High-tensile steel is lighter and stronger but can be pricier.
• Size and Length: This depends on your boat’s size and the depths you’ll be anchoring in. As a rule of thumb, your chain should be at least 5-6 times the depth of the water.
• Link Type: The two main types are proof coil (round links) and BBB (short links). BBB is often preferred as it fits better in most windlasses.

4. Nuances and Nifty Tips

• Galvanization Matters: If you opt for galvanized steel, ensure it’s hot-dipped galvanized for better rust resistance.
• Mix and Match: Some sailors use a combination of chain and rope. The chain provides weight and abrasion resistance, while the rope offers flexibility and reduces weight.
• Maintenance is Key: Regularly rinse your chain with fresh water, especially if you sail in saltwater. This simple act can significantly extend its lifespan.

5. Lifespan of Different Chain Materials

• Galvanized Steel: With proper care, expect 5-10 years. However, in harsh conditions, this can reduce to 3-5 years.
• Stainless Steel: A well-maintained stainless steel chain can last up to 15 years.
• High-Tensile Steel: Due to its strength, it can last anywhere from 10-20 years, depending on usage and maintenance.

Choosing and maintaining your anchor chain might seem like a small detail amidst the grandeur of yacht ownership. But, as any seasoned sailor will tell you, it’s these “small” details that often make the most significant difference. So, next time you’re out on the water, take a moment to appreciate that sturdy chain holding you in place. And remember, the sea might be unpredictable, but with the right equipment, you’ll always be prepared.

6. The Significance of Manufacturer Certification

One aspect that’s often overlooked but is of paramount importance is the certification of the anchor chain manufacturer. Let’s dive into why this is crucial and what it entails.

Why is Manufacturer Certification Important?

• Quality Assurance: A certified manufacturer adheres to strict quality standards, ensuring that the anchor chain you purchase is of high quality and won’t let you down in crucial moments.
• Safety: Anchor chains are responsible for holding your yacht in place, and a substandard chain can pose significant safety risks. Certified manufacturers produce chains that can withstand the forces they claim to handle.
• Longevity: Chains from certified manufacturers tend to last longer, giving you better value for your money.

Understanding Manufacturer Certification:

• Standards and Regulations: Various international bodies set standards for marine equipment, including anchor chains. When a manufacturer is certified, it means they produce chains in compliance with these standards.
• Testing: Certified manufacturers undergo rigorous testing of their products. This can include tensile strength tests, corrosion resistance tests, and more.
• Traceability: A hallmark of a certified manufacturer is the traceability of their products. Each chain will have markings that can trace it back to its batch and production details. This is invaluable if there’s ever a recall or if specific batches have issues.
• Regular Audits: To maintain their certification, manufacturers are regularly audited. This ensures they consistently meet the required standards and that the quality of their chains remains consistent over time.

When purchasing an anchor chain, always check the manufacturer’s certification. It’s not just a piece of paper or a stamp of approval; it’s a testament to the quality, safety, and reliability of the product you’re investing in. Remember, the open seas can be unpredictable, and the last thing you want is equipment that’s not up to the task. Always opt for certified quality, and sail with confidence and peace of mind.

Happy sailing, my friends! 🌊🛥️🌅

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• Anchoring & Mooring Correctly

Anchor chains and lines

In this comprehensive guide to anchor chains and anchor lines, we hope you'll find all the answers to the most important questions and plenty of helpful tips! As any skipper will tell you, every boat must have reliable, quality anchor equipment at its disposal. Not only is this essential when moored in a quiet and idyllic bay, but even more so when there is wind or swell. Making the right choice will therefore not only make your life easier on board, it is also paramount to ensuring the safety of your boat and its crew. Anchor chains can come in various grades and types, and each has its own specifications and features that enhance effectiveness. The wide range of products is sure to satisfy all requirements. However, one thing is true for all chains: the breaking load of an anchor chain must be such that it is able to withstand individually acting forces caused by the current, wind and swell in any situation, and this also depends on the boat's size, depth of the water and anchorage. The weight of your anchor chain is also an important factor to consider, as is how easy it is to handle on board. It may therefore be worthwhile looking at chain and rope combinations when choosing anchor rode.

The right choice

• Choosing an anchor chain
• DIN or ISO?

Anchor chain thickness

Anchor line or anchor chain, selection criteria & properties, length of anchor chain or line, chain fore-runner, anchor buddy (weight), attaching, using and caring for your anchor chain, finding the right anchor chain, how to choose the right anchor chain.

Finding the right anchor chain depends first and foremost on your type of boat and the area you sail in. Hot-dip galvanised steel chains are widely used in northern latitudes. "This type of chain is reasonably cheap, but also has properties you should be aware of," explains Dietbrecht, equipment expert at SVB. "Because of its rough surface, silt or algae tend to stick to it. Furthermore, the zinc coating could eventually rub off on the seabed, which could cause rust to occur on damaged areas."

What's more, when raising anchor, this kind of chain doesn't flow as compactly into the locker as well as others. The chain can form a pyramid, meaning that the hanging part won't be heavy enough to pull the chain down into the locker. This is not the case with smooth stainless-steel chains, also called Niro chains, but these are around three to four times more expensive and some alloys have little or no corrosion resistance in warm water areas (Caribbean or Mediterranean). The salt water literally eats into the steel and forms holes, which, if they remain unnoticed, can cause the chain to break unexpectedly under load. High-quality, so-called high-strength steel or duplex steel is supposed to prevent such a scenario, but other products also offer corrosion resistance.

Anchor chains: DIN or ISO?

What does din and iso mean.

In Germany, chains are manufactured according to the industry standard DIN 766. Chains from other European countries often correspond to the ISO standard 4565. DIN sizes correspond to uniform dimensions that have been established according to the German Institute for Standardisation (DIN). The International Organisation for Standardisation, ISO for short (from Greek isos = equal), is a corresponding international standardisation organisation. Outside Europe, chains are commonly measured in inches.

"If using a windlass on board, the size of the anchor chain must match that of the gypsy," says Dietbrecht. "If the links in the chain are the wrong size, it will jump and not run through smoothly." By conforming to strict calibration standards such as ISO or DIN, most anchor chains and chain links will run reliably through the windlass. According to DIN and ISO, round steel chain links with a thickness of six and eight millimetres are identical in terms of link length and internal link dimensions. Differences in classification only exist from a size of ten millimetres of steel chain. This information is usually indicated on the winch. However, these industry standards do not say anything about the material of the chain steel and the alloys can have very different properties. Steel chains of the designations 1.4401, AISI 316, V4A, 1.4404, AISI 316L are not considered suitable for seawater in warm areas. The benchmark here is the material 1.4462 (AISI 318LN).

Overview ISO anchor chain

DIN chain characteristics

Which anchor chain thickness should i have?

There are no legal guidelines on chain thickness, so responsibility here lies with the owner or skipper. You'll have to decide for yourself which is the best anchor chain for your boat. Many specifications and recommendations for skippers are based on safety guidelines issued by yacht associations or the Germanischer Lloyd (GL) classification society. From a purely economic point of view, an anchor chain should of course only ever be as thick as it needs to be. However, experienced boaters do tend to choose chains that are a little thicker, to be on the safe side in case of an emergency. The required chain link thickness is determined by the size of the vessel, i.e., the boat weight and the breaking load of the anchor chain, and varies depending on the chain material. Some specifications base the calculation of the breaking load of an anchor chain on the displacement of the boat, which corresponds to the boat weight in relation to its mass. The average breaking load value for ten-millimetre chain steel is about 80 Kn. The minimum breaking load according to DIN 766 is 4.0 t for a 10 mm round steel chain. The most common thickness for recreational boats is eight, ten and twelve millimetres. An alternative recommendation is provided by Germanischer Lloyd, which refers to the length of the ship (GL recommendation): up to 8 metres boat length = 6 millimetres chain steel, up to 10 metres = 8 millimetres, up to 12 metres = 10 millimetres, up to 14 metres = 12 millimetres and up to 16 metres = 13 millimetres. " You can't tell what loads an anchor chain can take by looking at it from the outside, so a new anchor chain should always have a test certificate from the manufacturer," recommends Dietbrecht, sailor and boating expert.

This is the only way you can be sure that the specified breaking load and gauge accuracy (i.e. exact adherence to the specified dimensions) is correct, and you won't be in for any nasty surprises when at anchor. The price of an anchor chain can vary considerably and depends on the design, quality and length you need. This can range from a few hundred to several thousand euros.

TIP: „Breaking loads on galvanised chains and Nirosta chains are the same. They just have different surface finishes. Hence the difference in price."

Anchor chain

Should i use Anchor line or anchor chain?

Because of its high tensile strength, many skippers prefer an anchor chain. But on dinghies, inflatable boats or small motor yachts (up to 1.5 t weight), you can use an anchor line and it does offer some advantages. Due to its light weight, an anchor line is easier to handle; moreover, the weight of an anchor chain will affect the trim and increase hobby-horsing if stowed in the bow. Furthermore, anchor lines can also have considerable breaking loads, about eight tonnes at 22 millimetres thick, and in adverse conditions with waves or wind they are actually superior to a chain because of their elasticity. Because the line is more flexible, it can absorb dynamic load peaks better, whereby an anchor chain would "jolt" hard. This jerking happens when a wave hits the bow while the chain is taught. The risk here is that the anchor could be ripped free from its hold, or anchor equipment, such as a windlass or cleat could become damaged.

From boat sizes with a weight of 1.5 t, the thickness of an anchor line should be at least twelve millimetres. 10-millimetre lines should be chosen for smaller boats as they are better to handle. Any thinner and lines can cut easily into the hand when being hauled in. The ideal material for an anchor line is nylon or polyester with square braid. Polyethylene lines are not suitable as anchor lines because they do not absorb water and tend to float as a result. Likewise, mooring lines are not suitable for use as anchor lines. Mooring lines must be UV resistant, flexible and have good stretch and abrasion resistance.

Anchor lines, on the other hand, should be relatively stretch-free, but still elastic enough to prevent jerking. Disadvantage of an anchor line: Unlike a chain, it does not self-stow in the chain locker when anchoring and because you need a longer length than a chain, it takes up more space. When using a line, it is essential to note that the swing circle is larger. When a ship is at anchor, it rarely stays fixed at one point: changes in wind conditions or current direction cause it to move in an arc around the anchor. The ship's movement around the anchored position is called the anchor swinging circle. It's important to make sure there are no obstacles within the circle. A wide range of variants available on the market also includes leaded anchor lines. These lines are mostly used with a second anchor.

Anchor lines & anchor line systems

What length of anchor chain or line do i need?

The vessel size, current and swell are all factors that can determine what length anchor chain you should choose. In general, the longer the anchor chain or anchor line, the better the anchor will hold. The angle of pull is important here, and it should not exceed eight degrees. For optimal mooring of a sailboat or a motor yacht, a chain length corresponding to 5 to 7 times the water depth is usually sufficient. If an anchor line is used instead of an anchor chain, a good rule of thumb is that the line length should be at least ten times the water depth.

What do I need a Chain fore-runner for

A chain fore-runner is recommended to be used with anchor lines on boats that are above a certain weight. A fore-runner chain is a length of anchor chain that pulls down the anchor shaft by its own weight, thereby increasing the static friction on the bottom and thus the effectiveness of the anchor. A chain fore-runner will also protect the anchor line from rubbing and sheathing on rocky seabed. From a boat weight of 1.5 t, a chain fore-runnner of three metres in length is sufficient according to GL recommendations. The German Sailing Association (KA), on the other hand, recommends a chain fore-runner of at least six metres in length.

Chain fore-runners

In some situations, an anchor weight on the chain fore-runner is useful. This extra weight is lowered down on a shackle on the anchor chain and does two things: Firstly, the anchor chain is held down to the ocean bed, so that more chain pulls along the surface on the bottom. And because boat swing is reduced, this is advantageous in crowded anchorages. Secondly, an anchor buddy is useful in strong winds, as it relieves pull on the anchor chain and can prevent the anchor from breaking free. Ropes are available from retailers and suppliers by the metre, but for chains usually only in thicknesses up to 13 millimetres, and above that only in so-called "chain lengths" of about 27 metres. The length of the anchor chain on board should be at least 70 to 120 metres, depending on the sailing area, and correspondingly more for an anchor line or combination of line and chain. Some boaters insist on spare rode consisting of anchor and chain. This can be useful in difficult conditions, but again requires storage space and adds weight on board. Normally, spare rode is not necessary if you check the condition of your chain on a regular basis.

Anchoring in tidal waters presents a particular challenge. Sufficient chain must be deployed to ensure that at least five times the water depth is still out at high tide. In addition, the larger swing circle must be taken into account at low tide.

It is advisable to attach an anchor chain to the anchor with a rotating shackle. This prevents the chain from twisting. The end of an anchor chain should be attached to the boat in the chain locker with a rope lashing or strong strop so that it can be easily cut in an emergency. Always shackle a line to the chain. Don't use a sailor's knot like an anchor bend - the knot won't hold reliably in the smooth, synthetic rope. In addition, each knot causes a weak point that reduces the breaking strength of the line by about half. Above a certain boat size, the use of an electric windlass is recommended because the anchor rode is simply too heavy. If the windlass fails, you can sail towards the anchor when retrieving, thus reducing the load. In fact, this is generally advised when using a windlass because it reduces strain on that piece of equipment.

As anchor lines are not very heavy, they can usually be hauled in by hand easily. However, some windlasses have a special capstan fitted to them for this purpose. On sailing yachts, an additional capstan on the foredeck is more likely to be a nuisance and, besides, there are usually enough winches there for hauling. Special care is not required for an anchor chain and can be used for several years, depending on how much wear it is subject to. Nevertheless, it won't hurt to rinse the anchor chain and chain locker with fresh water every now and then to clean.

TIP: If your boat is winterised on land, you must take out the entire chain, including the anchor. Just let your windlass run down and that’s it. This will prevent the chain from rotting away inside the damp and salty chain locker.

Accessories for anchor chains & anchor lines

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• Anchors Unveiled: A Comprehensive Guide to Choosing the Right Anchor for Your Boat

When it comes to boating, ensuring your vessel is equipped with the right gear is paramount. Among the crucial equipment, anchors play a vital role in providing stability and security. In this comprehensive guide, we'll delve into the intricacies of anchor weight, types, and how to choose the right one for your boat.

Understanding Anchor Weight

Selecting the appropriate anchor weight is not a one-size-fits-all task. The weight of your anchor should be proportional to your boat's size and the conditions you might encounter on the water. A lightweight anchor may not hold in rough waters, while an excessively heavy one can be challenging to handle.

Types of Anchors: A Deep Dive

Before delving into anchor weight, it's essential to understand the different types of anchors available. The Hunter Delta 25 anchor, known for its reliability, will be a focal point. Each anchor type has its strengths, and choosing the right one can make a significant difference in your boating experience. 

Determining the Right Size Anchor

The right anchor size is crucial for effective anchoring. Consider factors such as boat length, windage, and the type of bottom you'll be anchoring on. To simplify this process, refer to a delta anchor sizing chart, which provides valuable insights into choosing the correct size for your boat.

Boat Anchor Sizing Guide

Boats come in various sizes, and each requires a specific anchor size for optimal performance. We'll provide a comprehensive guide on selecting the right anchor size, including detailed recommendations for a 19ft boat and a 21ft boat.

Read more useful sailing tips:

Hunter delta: a closer look.

The Hunter Delta 25 anchor is a popular choice among boaters. We'll explore its features, advantages, and considerations when looking to purchase this reliable anchor. Understanding the intricacies of a specific anchor can greatly influence your decision-making process.

Best Anchor for Your Boat Size

Not all anchors are created equal, and the best anchor for your boat depends on its size. We'll highlight recommendations for different boat sizes, focusing on the best anchor for a 19ft boat and a 20ft boat, ensuring you make an informed decision.

Navigating Anchor Size Charts

Anchor size charts can be intimidating, but they are valuable tools for choosing the right anchor. We'll break down how to read and interpret anchor size charts effectively, providing practical tips for selecting the perfect anchor for your boating needs.

Ensuring Adequate Anchor Weight for Safety

Safety should always be a top priority when boating, and the anchor's weight plays a crucial role. We'll emphasize the significance of selecting the right anchor weight to ensure your boat remains secure in various conditions. Additionally, we'll discuss common mistakes to avoid in anchor weight selection.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our  Magazine.

How to Buy an Anchor: A Step-by-Step Guide

Buying an anchor involves more than just picking one off the shelf. We'll provide a step-by-step guide on how to buy an anchor, covering essential considerations such as price, quality, and the specific needs of your boat. Make an informed purchase to enhance your boating experience. 

Determine Your Boat's Size:

• Measure the length and weight of your boat to establish the appropriate anchor size.

Consider Your Boating Conditions:

• Evaluate the typical weather and water conditions where you'll be boating to choose an anchor suitable for those environments.

Understand Bottom Types:

• Different anchors are designed for various seabed types (sand, mud, rock). Know the predominant bottom type in your boating area.

Research Anchor Types:

• Explore different anchor designs (e.g., plow, fluke, claw) and understand their strengths and weaknesses.

Consult Anchor Size Charts:

• Refer to anchor size charts provided by manufacturers to match your boat size with the recommended anchor weight.

Evaluate Anchor Material and Construction:

• Consider the materials used in anchor construction (e.g., stainless steel, galvanized steel) and their resistance to corrosion.

Check for Additional Features:

• Look for features like swivels or adjustable shanks that enhance the anchor's performance and ease of use.

Read Customer Reviews:

• Check online reviews and testimonials to learn about the experiences of other boaters with specific anchor models.

Compare Prices:

• Compare prices across different sellers and platforms to ensure you're getting a competitive deal.

Verify Warranty and Return Policies:

• Confirm the warranty period and understand the return policy in case the anchor doesn't meet your expectations.

Ensure Compatibility with Your Boat:

• Double-check that the chosen anchor is compatible with your boat's design and anchoring setup.

Purchase from Reputable Retailers:

• Buy from reputable retailers or directly from the manufacturer to ensure the authenticity and quality of the anchor.

Inspect the Anchor Upon Delivery:

• Thoroughly inspect the anchor upon delivery to identify any defects or damage. Report issues promptly.

Learn Proper Anchoring Techniques:

• Familiarize yourself with proper anchoring techniques to maximize the effectiveness of your new anchor.

Keep the Manual Handy:

• Store the anchor's manual on your boat for quick reference on maintenance and usage tips.

By following these steps, you'll be equipped with the knowledge needed to make a well-informed decision when purchasing an anchor for your boat.

Understanding Anchor Types for Different Boats

Different boats have different requirements when it comes to anchors. We'll explore the importance of choosing the right anchor type for your boat, taking into account factors such as boat size, usage, and environmental conditions. Tailoring your anchor choice ensures optimal performance.

CQR Anchor: Features and Pricing

For those seeking a reliable anchor, the CQR anchor is worth considering. We'll delve into its features and discuss pricing considerations. Understanding the features of specific anchors aids in making an educated decision based on your boating requirements.

In the vast sea of anchor options, finding the right one for your boat is essential. From understanding anchor weight to exploring specific anchor types like the Hunter Delta 25, this guide aims to empower you with the knowledge needed to make an informed decision. Prioritize safety, tailor your choice to your boat's specifications, and enjoy worry-free anchoring on your next boating adventure.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our  range of charter boats  and head to some of our favourite  sailing  destinations .

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How to Pick a Boat Anchor: The Guide to Types, Sizes & Weights

October 20, 2023

Lakes can get choppy, and river currents can drag you along when you'd rather stay put. Having the right anchor on your boat is crucial, especially if you're busy staging for a wakeboard or ski ride .

But what type and size of anchor is best for your setup?

Types of Boat Anchors

Let's look at the most popular types of boat anchors, and look at some charts to figure out what size and weight anchor is right for you.

Fluke Anchors

Also known as a Danforth anchor, the fluke anchor is favored by lake and river boat owners for its lightweight design and excellent holding power in soft bottoms.

Fluke anchors have a rotating bar that connects the anchor to the line. Their forward-heavy profile allows the flukes to drive straight down into sand or mud. As line is laid out, the bar swivels into a horizontal position, providing good scope.

• Boat Size: 30 feet or less
• Best For: Lakes, rivers, mud and sand
• Bad For: Rocks, debris, coral, strong currents

Plow Anchors

Also called a delta anchor, the plow anchor is one of the most popular anchors on the boat market. It's simple and effective, capable of providing reliable mooring in all water conditions and most beds.

Plow anchors dig into the surface below and they provide high holding power. They set quickly, which makes them an excellent choice when strong currents and winds could otherwise quickly move your boat.

But plow anchors' large, flat fins can get stuck in debris and large rocks, so it's best to stick to softer bottoms.

• Boat Size: 70 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass bottoms, strong winds
• Bad For: Rocky bottoms

Claw Anchors

Also known as a Bruce anchor, the claw anchor is similar to a plow anchor: It sets quickly and digs into soft bottoms, providing good holding power against currents and wind -- though not as well as a plow.

Because claw anchors use smaller pins, they're better suited in gravel and rock, affording a lower risk of catching and getting stuck where a plow anchor might get hung up.

Digger Anchors

The digger anchor excels at providing high holding power in gravel and rocky bottoms, even with strong currents and high wind. It uses a rod that partially rotates, while limiting the angle of the anchor line's scope.

As current and wind pull on the boat, the rod's limited angle pulls on the anchor's claws, pushing them further into the bottom. The digger's thin, long claws work great in virtually all bottom, including gravel and small rocks -- just avoid large debris, as the limited angle of the anchor rod prevents it from being pulled back out of a snag effectively.

• Boat Size: 40 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass, gravel, strong winds
• Bad For: Bottoms with large debris

Navy Anchors

The classic, heavy, big navy anchor excels at providing high holding power in all waters and conditions. Its size and shape make it suitable for rocky bottoms and debris fields, as it has little risk of getting snagged.

The only problem with a navy anchor is that its benefits can become problematic for smaller vessels: Because navy anchors are large and heavy, they can be difficult to stow, and they add plenty of weight to the hull.

• Boat Size: 20+ feet
• Best For: All bottoms, currents, and weather
• Bad For: Small, light boats

Mushroom Anchors

The mushroom anchor is made for small vessels in relatively calm waters with soft bottoms. It relies on suction and sinking into sand, dirt, and mud to provide holding power. These anchors are typically found on light, electric motor-powered boats, kayaks, and dingy boats.

• Boat Size: 12 feet or less
• Best For: Soft bottoms free of rock
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents, rocky bottoms

River Anchors

Like the mushroom anchor, the river anchor is also intended for small vessels in lakes and rivers -- but with one exception: The river anchor works well in rocky bottoms and beds filled with debris. The wide, flat flukes work best when they can grab hold of objects on the floor. River anchors work well enough in soft bottoms, albeit with less holding power than a mushroom.

• Best For: rocky bottoms and debris fields
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents

Choosing The right Size Anchor

When selecting a boat anchor, it's important to consider the following factors:

The size and weight of your boat will determine the size and weight of the anchor you need. As a general rule, the heavier the boat, the larger and heavier the anchor should be.

Water and Weather

The type of weather and currents you encounter will influence your anchor choice. Different anchors perform better in different conditions, so it's important to choose one that suits your boating environment.

Conditions of Water Bed

The floor your anchor rests upon can vary wildly. Some lakes and rivers have rocky bottoms filled with debris, while others have soft silt or sand. Picking the wrong setup could mean you wind up drifting, or worse, cutting line because your anchor got stuck at the bottom.

Anchor Weight vs. Boat Size Chart

The chart above is a general guideline for selecting the appropriate anchor weight for your boat. Conditions on the water, and the weight of your boat -- regardless of its size -- could mean you need a heavier anchor.

Anchor Chain vs. Rope

When it comes to anchoring, you'd think chain is far superior to rope. But chain really only provides two advantages: It adds holding power, helping to keep your boat moored in one spot in rough water and strong currents, and it resists chafing -- it won't suffer damage from being dragged along debris and rocks.

Chain is heavy, though, so it adds weight to your craft when not being used. This isn't a concern on large, sea-going vessels. But you probably don't want that added weight when you're cruising around on the river or lake, especially when towing a wakeboard, tube, or skis.

Chain also rusts, even with regular maintenance, and it's expensive. Nowadays, synthetic anchor rope is tough and abrasion-resistant, and it withstands water and sunlight incredibly well. It's also lightweight relative to its strength, and it takes up much less space than chain.

The most effective setup combines a bit of chain near the anchor, with rope making up the rest of the line. Just a few feet of chain is needed to ensure your anchor is properly seated. This bit of chain also improves the scope of your line. "Scope?" You, say? Read on.

It's All About Scope

Rope alone will provide as much holding power as chain, so long as your scope is correct. Scope measures the ratio of the length of deployed rope (or chain) to the height from the ocean, lake, or riverbed to the anchor point on the boat.

The minimum effective scope you need to properly moor your vessel with any anchor and line is 5:1. That means if the depth from your boat's topside to the underwater floor is 5 feet, you need 25 feet of rope laid out below. This affords about 75% of the maximum holding power of your anchor and line.

A scope of 10:1, laid perfectly flat on the bed below, provides 100% holding power. Using the same 5 foot depth, you'd need 50 feet of anchor rope or chain laid out for max holding power.

Need a new anchor setup? Check out our boat anchors and anchor lines !

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Is your anchor chain up the job?

• November 6, 2020

It’s all well and good having a solid anchor, but having ground tackle that is going to keep you secure is equally important, says Vyv Cox

The equipment used to anchor our boats is constantly developing as new materials and designs appear, equipment is adapted from other technologies or existing items are improved.

Old ideas are constantly questioned by rigorous testing and field experience.

Secure anchoring isn’t just about the anchor itself, however.

The whole rode that connects the anchor to the boat, made up of a number of different parts, is arguably at least as important, if not more so, than the specifics of the anchor.

If you get your ground tackle set up correctly, with an understanding of its abilities and limitations, you can be confident that the much-maligned ‘weakest link’, is not going to let you down in challenging conditions.

First, some clarification, what is meant by a rode?

A rode (more archaically called ‘cable’) is whatever comprises the connection between the anchor shank and the fixed point at the other end on the boat.

It is customary to refer to an all-chain rode or a mixed rode, meaning chain plus rope, but realistically the term also includes any component used to join any part of it together.

SHACKLE OR SWIVEL?

Many people will argue that there is no need for a swivel at all.

In many cases where there is no problem with the chain twisting, this is true and my own adage is to fit one if you find you need it but not otherwise.

My choice is to fit one because it makes turning the anchor after recovery so much easier, when inevitably it comes up the ‘wrong’ way around, and this may even be essential for some self-launching and recovering anchor systems.

Some chains twist naturally, perhaps due to uneven wear on adjacent links and some shapes of anchor rotate quite violently as they are being recovered.

Using a shackle between chain and anchor is simple and strong, as long as twisting isn’t an issue

If you find that your chain is regularly twisted on recovery, or becomes twisted in the locker, it may be that a swivel will help.

There are other solutions to anchors emerging the ‘wrong’ way, to be discussed shortly.

If opting to use only a shackle it’s wise to select one a size bigger than the chain.

The pin of a 10mm shackle will fit through an 8mm chain link and most modern anchors are slotted to allow the eye of a shackle to pass through it.

The same applies to a 12/10mm combination.

Shackles come in two basic shapes,:a ‘D’ and a bow.

Bow shackles proved to be as strong as ‘D’ shackles

A ‘D’ would appear to offer better straight line strength but the bow would seem more able to cope with changes in pull direction.

The reality is that when I carried out destructive testing on both types there was no significant difference between either shape.

Chandlery-bought stainless steel shackles were generally stronger than their galvanised equivalents as shown in Table 1 below.

If we look at galvanised alloy steel shackles for the lifting and hoisting industries, however, we can see that those in the Crosby G209 A range, in Table 2 for example, are considerably stronger than any of the ‘marine’ offerings tested.

CMP, makers of the Rocna anchor, market another high strength shackle, the Titan Black Pin.

This make is marketed by some UK mail order chandleries.

Again, the strength offered by heat-treated alloy steel greatly exceeds the figures obtained from chandlery bought items, Table 3.

ANCHOR CONNECTORS

An answer to the problem of anchors recovered the ‘wrong’ way has been developed in Australia.

This is a simple asymmetric device called a Boomerang.

Gravity simply causes the anchor to rotate on the bow roller .

It is shackled to the anchor chain at one end and to a short length of chain between it and the anchor.

It therefore requires two shackles and an adequate distance between the bow roller and windlass.

Continues below…

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I tested a cranked swivel by Osculati working by the same principle but in my experience found it to inhibit setting of the anchor.

This may be due to the greater angular displacement offered by this device.

The marketplace offers a bewildering variety of swivels, ranging from roughly galvanised designs costing under £10 to beautifully engineered works of art in exotic materials costing well into three figures.

Connectors that are built down to a price will be fairly lightly built and will rely on two metal loops bolted together, as seen bottom right.

An anchor swivel will help eliminate twists, but the straight side arms can fail under lateral loading

This design is widely sold in chandleries and mail order outlets but any design that relies upon bolted components to carry the load of the chain or anchor is likely to have poor loading capacity and is best avoided.

In the destructive tests that I carried out the only swivels that had higher strength than the chain to which they were intended to connect were those in which the bolt simply held two forged parts together, the Osculati and the Kong.

In these the strength is provided by the forged construction, inherently strong and tough, as in the image below.

The only potential weakness would be if the connecting bolt were to undo, so I always use some thread lock on the swivel bolt.

This has proved to be totally reliable over 10 years plus.

The type illustrated has the disadvantage that any angled loads to the end of the anchor tend to bend the parallel arms of the swivel, although the designs normally offer lateral loading capacity equivalent to the SWL of the chain.

I devised a simple way to avoid the problem in 2007, reported in YM, and now widely used in anchoring advice.

Adding in three chain links between swivel and anchor retains the benefits, while allowing full articulation

This is the addition of two or three links of chain between the swivel and anchor, allowing total articulation.

More recently several manufacturers including Mantus and Ultra have introduced compact, expensive designs that allow articulation by eliminating side arms.

The top swivel shown above is by Mantus, using an incorporated bow shackle and forged pin to carry chain loads, while below it, the Ultra flip swivel uses two forged pins and utilises a ball joint that gives better articulation than parallel side arms up to about 45o-degrees of lateral displacement. Wasi make a similar swivel.

Were the anchor to be wedged in rock and the tide direction reversed, it could be imagined that high bending loads might be imposed upon the rather narrow necks, though the manufacturers claim breaking loads above that of chain.

A simple boomerang link will flip the anchor the right way up in recovery

The Osculati twist anchor connector combines the boomerang idea with a swivel

ANCHOR CHAIN

As a rough guide to the right size chain for your boat, in 8mm Grade 30 chain is sufficient for boats up to about 37ft, 10mm up to 45ft and 12mm above that, but the displacement of the boat is an additional factor.

There is also clearly a difference in the chain needed for weekend pottering and extended high-latitude cruising.

A good way to decide on chain size is to consult chandlery websites, where good information is available.

Chain failure is very rare, thanks to a typical safety factor of 4:1.

The length of chain needed is also very much location dependent.

Cruising the Irish Sea I carried little more than 50 metres but for more sustained cruising I have extended that and now carry 65 metres.

Some areas further afield are blessed with deeper water anchorages for which lengths of up to 100 metres may be desirable.

A well-drained chain locker will prolong the chain’s life

Chain is heavy

A yacht intending to cruise extensively might well carry 100 metres, amounting to 140kg for 8mm, 230kg for 10mm, stowed well forward where sailing performance would benefit least.

By substituting a smaller size but a higher grade some useful weight-saving is gained.

As an example, by reference to Table 4, carrying 100 metres of 8mm, Grade 70 instead of the same length in 10mm Grade 30 would save 90kg in the anchor locker and almost double the strength of the rode, from 4,800 to 8,400kg.

Marine chain in sizes up to 12mm is dominated by Chinese production, although one or two European manufacturers continue to produce.

The main UK importers of galvanised chain are probably Bainbridge and William Hackett.

The chain is nominally Grade 30 but testing has shown UTS figures to approach or even exceed the values required of Grade 40.

Many manufacturers reduce the thickness of zinc on production chain, with the result that many purchasers see rust after only two or three seasons.

AISI 316 stainless steel chain is normally to Grade 30 specification.

It is almost rust-free and its smooth finish does not heap in the locker, but it costs roughly four times that of galvanised chain.

Higher grades of stainless steel, 318L in Grades 50 and 60, are known as Cromox.

They have double the strength of 316 chain and considerably better corrosion resistance.

Chain in this material does not come cheap.

The Mantus (pictured above) and Ultra (below) are modern swivels that seek to eliminate earlier swivels’ weaknesses

The chief advantage of a mixed rode is weight saving, desirable in smaller or lighter yachts and particularly in catamarans.

Rope for mixed rodes may be three-strand or octoplait, either of which can be spliced to the chain if it is required to pass through a windlass.

Instructions for doing this are widely available on the internet but it will be necessary to consult the windlass manual to determine the precise type of splice that will pass through the gypsy.

Nylon is probably the most widely used material for this duty but polyester is also employed, nylon having rather more elasticity, especially in three-strand form, although nylon three-strand goes quite hard and inflexible after some time, not a desirable property in an anchor rode.

Octoplait seems to retain its flexibility to a greater extent.

Elasticity is very desirable in the rode, provided by a snubber in an all-chain rode but inherent in a mixed rode.

A medium-term problem with splices is that the rope remains wet for long periods, causing premature corrosion of the chain.

Regular inspection and fresh water washing is advisable.

For boats without a windlass, or for kedge use, it may be more convenient to splice a thimble into the end of the rope for attachment to the chain with a shackle.

A typical mixed rode will have about 30 metres of chain and maybe 50 metres of rope.

For most anchoring in moderate tidal ranges only the chain will be used, avoiding the difficulties that sometimes occur feeding rope into the chain locker, or worse, down a spurling pipe.

EXTENDING CHAIN

It is sometimes necessary to join two or more lengths of chain that are required to pass through a windlass.

This might be because it has been decided to carry a longer chain due to changing cruising grounds, or just because some corroded links need to be cut out.

The only way to do this is with a C-link.

This clever little device comprises two halves of a chain link that can be riveted together to form a single link.

When made up, and in the same material as the chain, a C-link has about half the strength of the mild steel chain that it is intended to join.

An eye splice is simpler, and can be connected via a shackle

A chain splice will allow the join to pass through a windlass

Chain stored with wet rope can rust more quickly

For this reason a top quality C-link is made from heat-treated alloy steel that is about twice as strong as mild steel.

The result is a link that is as strong, or more usually stronger, than the chain.

It is an unfortunate truth that the vast majority of C-links sold in chandleries are made from mild steel, or possibly stainless steel.

These will have 50 to 60% of the chain strength when well made up.

Once again we turn to the lifting and hoisting industry where we find alloy steel C-links that will not compromise the strength of our chain.

Crosby also supply these, known as the G335 ‘Missing Link’, in Table 5.

Due to the fact that they are hardened and tempered, it takes some serious effort to peen the rivets.

A large hammer and drift on an anvil is the recommended technique.

ATTACHMENT TO THE BOAT

It would be remiss not to mention attachment of your anchor rode’s bitter end to the boat.

Should you pay out too much chain or should the windlass fail without doing so could easily result in the loss of your ground tackle.

Do not, however, shackle your chain to the boat.

If the anchor becomes fouled, or you need to let go the anchor in an emergency, you need to be able to let it go under load, and the only reliable way of doing this is by lashing the end of the chain to a dead-eye in the anchor locker, so that it can be cut in a hurry, or untied and attached to a large fender, should you need to let go the chain.

It’s also worth inspecting the dead-eye itself: is it big enough fitting?

Is the bulkhead it is bolted into in good condition, and does it have something to spread the load on the other side?

RECOMMENDATIONS

The rode’s bitter end should be securely attached to a solid point in the locker, but must be easy to let go in an emergency

C-Links are used to join chain. The two halves are placed together and the rivet peened inside the hole with a hammer and drift until fully secure

Modern anchors offer great improvements in holding power compared to those of yesteryear.

The rode that attaches them to the boat should also be of good quality.

Nominal Grade 30 chain is probably the most widely used and is generally totally reliable but, if the boat size is marginal for the recommended size, increasing the grade provides greater strength without the expense of a windlass gypsy change.

Grades 40 and 70 offer strength increases while Cromox gives the additional corrosion resistance.

Swivels should be types that do not rely on bolts to carry anchoring loads, whether on the anchor or the chain attachment.

Only use a swivel if you find it useful as they are not essential and can introduce weakness to the rode.

Galvanised alloy steel shackles from the lifting industry provide the greatest strength.

Wichard HR shackles (17/4 PH) were the strongest stainless steel shackles in testing.

Nylon rope has greater elasticity than polyester and three-strand construction has more elasticity than octoplait.

Nylon octoplait is a good compromise.

Alloy steel C-links from the lifting industry are as strong as Grade 30 chain but not advised for higher grades.

Mild steel and 316 stainless steel C-links have about half the strength of Grade 30 chain.

About the author

Vyv Cox is a retired metallurgist and engineer who normally spends six months of the year on board his Sadler 34 in the Mediterranean

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Anchor Selection Guide: How to Choose the Best Boat Anchor Type

There are a number of boat anchors available, constructed of different materials, and often with confusing names. This article will discuss the most popular types of boat anchors,  how to choose the best anchor for your boat, the most common material types, and also give an overview of different naming conventions.

Quick Anchor Style Summary

Video: Choosing an Anchor Type

Our video below introduces many of the anchor types discussed here, although the article discusses a few more anchor types and provides some useful links.

Quick Summary Boat Anchor Recommendation

For most boaters , a Bruce or Delta is the best balance between price and performance. Both perform similarly and are similarly priced (Narrowly, the Bruce/Claw is our favorite of the three). If you've used a Danforth in the past , and you have had luck with it, choose a Danforth. If you've never used one before and if your setup allows it, choose a Bruce or Delta instead. If you're a blue-water cruiser , choose a CQR, or consider one of the new generation of anchors discussed below.

Boat Anchor Names: Trademarked Names and Generic Names

A special note is needed on the naming of anchors. Many anchors have a trademarked name, such as a   Bruce   or CQR, and a generic name like Claw or Plow. This is the same as how Xerox is a trademarked name for photocopier and how Aspirin is a trademarked name for pain killer. Trademarks effectively never expire whereas design patents expire after approximately 20-25 years. Therefore, manufacturers are free to clone an anchor design that has an expired patent but cannot use the trademarked name.

Bruce™ Claw Anchor

The   Bruce, or Claw, remains one of the most popular anchors among recreational boaters in North America. This is our anchor of choice as well.

The   Bruce   was developed in the 70s by the Bruce Anchor Group. Once their patent expired in the early 2000s, they stopped production of this anchor but many imitations have come along since.

The  Bruce  is an excellent all-purpose anchor as it performs well in most sea bottoms including mud, sand, rock, and coral. It has a harder time penetrating harder surfaces, such as clay, and bottoms with heavy grass. The three-claw design sets more easily than other anchors. It also resets easily if it is ever broken loose. On the downside, the Bruce has a lower holding power per pound than other anchors, meaning you’ll usually need a larger anchor than say the  Delta/Wing .

Pros:  Performs well in most conditions. Sets easily. Cons:  Awkward one piece design. Lower holding power per pound. Bottoms: Performs well in most bottoms; Struggles in hard bottoms such as clay, or heavy grass.

CQR™/Plow   &   Delta™/Wing Anchor

Both the CQR/Plow and the Delta/Wing are a plow style anchor. The most significant difference between these anchors is the fact that the CQR has a hinged design whereas the Delta is a one piece design.

The   CQR   is one of the oldest styles, dating back to the 30s and to this day, it remains one of the most popular anchors among blue water cruisers. Despite this, it has relatively low holding power and it consistently struggles in independent tests. It’s also rare to find a CQR under 25 lbs lending itself to the saying “There’s no such thing as a small CQR”. Despite these shortcomings, the hinged design makes it more responsive to wind and tide changes as compared to other anchors.

The   Delta   is arguably the most popular anchor on boats today, and is the standard anchor of choice used by most boat manufacturers. It has a good holding power per pound (about 50% more than the Bruce).

Both the   Delta   and the   CQR   perform well in most bottoms, struggling the most in rock.

Pros:   Performs well in most conditions. Fits most bow rollers. Cons:   Hinged design can make stowage awkward. "No such thing as a small CQR/Plow anchor". Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; struggles in rock.

Danforth™/Fluke Anchor

The  Danforth , or Fluke anchor, remains a very popular anchor choice. The Fortress is also a popular Fluke style anchor, different from the  Danforth  in that it comes apart and it constructed of light-weight, high-strength, aluminum.

The Fluke performs well in mud and sand, potentially the best of any anchor style. The downside is that outside of these bottoms, it is not a good performer. Therefore, it is a mud/sand only anchor, which fortunately is what most bottoms are comprised of.

Whether or not it is used as a primary anchor, a Fluke anchor makes an excellent choice as a secondary or stern anchor.

Pros:  Performs well in mud and sand. Stows easily on most bow rollers. Cons:   Does not perform well outside of mud/sand. Bottoms : Top performer in mud/sand. Performs poorly in other bottoms.

Spade Anchors

There are several anchors on the market today that feature a sharp fluke and a roll bar. These include the   Rocna and Manson Supreme.

Each of these anchors are essentially a variation on a plow style anchor. If you look at the plow portion of these anchors, you can see they are a lot sharper than traditional plows like the   Delta/Wing   and CQR. Analogous to a knife through butter, these anchors can penetrate the sea bottom a lot easier and deeper than the other anchor styles, hence the name for these anchors: "spade". The roll bar helps orient the anchor upright when setting.

These anchors have performed   extremely well in third party tests . The biggest downside to these anchors is that because they are still patented, they can be very expensive. The roll bar along with the elongated fluke can also make storing these anchors on bow rollers difficult.

Pros:   Very high holding power for many models. Cons:   Difficult to stow on a bow roller. Expense. Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; less effective in rock

Grapnel   and Other Small Craft Anchors

A  Grapnel anchor  is generally used for small boats such as Kayaks, Dinghies, Canoes, etc. It’s also popular with fishermen.They fold up very compactly and are easy to stow. A Grapnel’s holding power comes from hooking onto another object, such as a rock. When it does hook, it can create immense holding power, which can also make retrieving the anchor difficult.

Pros:  Great for use as a lunch hook. Folds to allow for compact storage. Cons:  Not appropriate for non-temporary anchorage. Bottoms: Rock or other situations when it can hook onto an object.

Mushroom Anchors

Large Mushroom anchors  are often used for permanent mooring buoys. As the silt from the sea-bottom builds up over these anchors, it can result in extreme holding power, up to 10 times the holding power of its actual weight. As a mooring buoy, the mushroom anchor is an excellent choice, however, it is not as useful in some temporary anchoring situations. An exception is that smaller versions of these anchors are good for use in small boats for anchoring while fishing or for a lunch stop over silty bottoms where the mushroom can penetrate.

Pros: If large, great for permanent mooring buoys. If small, good for use while fishing or for a lunch stop. Cons: If large, not appropriate for non-permanent moorings. If small, only good in soft bottoms. Bottoms: Silt, soft mud, unpacked sand.

Boat Anchor Material Types

Boat anchors come in a variety of types, the most popular being mild steel, high-tensile steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.

Most of the traditional steel anchors we are accustomed to seeing are likely either mild or high tensile steel. Mild steel and high-tensile steel are nearly indistinguishable from one another appearance wise. However, high tensile steel is 2-3 times stronger than mild steel. This isn't to say that a high-tensile steel boat anchor has 2-3 times the holding power of its mild steel counterpart, but it will nonetheless be stronger.

Both mild steel and high-tensile steel anchors are not corrosion resistant, and therefore need to be galvanized to prevent rust and other corrosion. All steel anchors (except stainless) should be galvanized. Galvanization has a tendency to wear down over time, but an anchor (as well as nearly any other steel product) can be re-galvanized.

Stainless steel is identical to galvanized steel in terms of holding power but differs significantly in appearance. The shiny gloss is essentially the only difference between stainless steel and galvanized steel. Stainless steel is also very corrosion resistant and will resist most rusting over time. You will often see manufacturers describing stainless steel as either 316 Stainless or 304 Stainless. 316 is a different chemical composition than 304 and is more corrosion resistant. It also more expensive.

There are some anchors constructed from high strength aluminum, such as the Fortress. These anchors are extremely lightweight while still offering high holding power. These anchors rely on bottom penetration for most of the holding power, and therefore, if they are not set, they provide little to no holding power.

Published May 08, 2018

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• Fishing Tips

The Best Boat Anchors Of All Time (Ranked Best Overall To Worst…)

• By: Joseph Simonds
• on July 16, 2021
• Found In: Boat Anchoring , Boating Tips , Fishing Tips , Weekly Newsletter: 7-18-21

• Comments (22)

It’s boat anchoring time!

Being able to quickly anchor your boat in any situation is one of the most important things for a boater (especially if you’re trying to catch fish and want to make sure you stay on your fishing honey hole).

It’s also a massive safety hazard if you have a small, weak anchor that won’t hold you during a storm, ripping current, etc.

But have you ever been confused (or uncertain) about which anchor is best for your boat?

Well, you’re not alone…

Turns out the majority of boaters we interviewed said they just bought an anchor “because their buddy had a similar anchor on his/her boat” or “because it was on sale and fit in the front hatch of their boat”…

NOT GOOD!!!

That’s why we had Salt Strong Fishing Coach Capt. Peter Deeks embark on a multi-month underwater investigation to find out exactly which anchors are best, and just as important, which anchors to avoid.

Let me tell you, the results were a bit shocking!

Let’s just say that the most popular anchors you see on boats are NOT the best!

Here are the main types of boat anchors that we tested:

• Danforth Fortress Fluke Anchor
• Common Danforth Fluke Anchor
• Small Fluke Anchor (West Marine)
• Danforth Steel Fluke (West Marine)
• Bruce Anchor
• Mushroom Anchor
• Grapple Reef Anchor
• Folding Grapnel Anchor
• Plow Anchor

Next, we tested each of these anchors out in every one of these situations (with and without chain – and with different rope length scopes):

• Hard compact sand
• Loose rocks/shelly gravel bottom
• Rocky/reef/wreck environment

So below you’ll see the following regarding this “best to worst” anchor test:

• An intro video where Capt. Deeks shares a few anchoring tips along with how we set up the test (definitely worth the watch)
• Links to all of the individual anchor tests (for you engineer types who like to see the actual underwater footage and testing of every anchor)
• Actual rankings for each anchor
• Conclusion video where we discuss the pros and cons of each anchor and declare a WINNER of best overall boat anchor

Enjoy this course and please leave us a comment below with any questions you have about anchors, how to anchor, or specific types of anchors you like.

1. Introduction To The Anchoring Test

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2. Links To All Anchor Tests (Actual Underwater Footage)

Click any link below to see the full underwater footage for each anchor type

3. The Boat Anchor Test Results

The point scoring system is based on speed and strength of hold with the following criteria:

1 = one point is awarded for an anchor fail with endless slipping before finally setting

2 = two points are awarded for an anchor that has slight slipping (or slight issues) but does set

3 = three points are awarded for an anchor that works perfectly and sets exactly how and when you want it to

The best anchors (ranked from best anchor to worst anchor):

• Best in Mud
• Best in Sand
• Best in Hard Sand
• Best for using shortest Rode
• Quietest Anchor
• 2 nd in ease of use and storage
• Tied for Best Structure or Wreck
• Plow Anchor (44 Points)
• Large West Marine Brand Fluke Anchor (37 Points)
• Small West Marine Brand Fluke Anchor (37 Points)
• Danforth Fortress Fluke (28 Points)
• Folding Grappling Anchor (26 Points)
• The Most Common Cheap Fluke Anchor (25 Points)
• Specialty Anchor – Best for Structure and Ledges
• Specialty Anchor – Best for slowing a drift or light force use

  Click here to download the Google sheet with all of the individual anchor scores

4. conclusion – the best boat anchors (ranked).

In conclusion, the BRUCE ANCHOR was the best overall anchor for fishing boats.

The Bruce, The Bruce, The Bruce is on Fire!

What’s crazy is that no one on our immediate Salt Strong team had one in their boat (we all had Danforth flukes and even a new Danforth Fortress – which was one of the WORST anchors).

But you can believe we’re all headed out to get a big Bruce anchor after seeing all of this.

The next time you’re at a sandbar, check out what anchors are being used.

I bet you’ll see more cheap fluke anchors and Danforth fortress anchors than anything else (which this study proved to be not very effective at holding boats).

Did you have any “aha’ moments from this anchor course?

Do you currently own a Bruce anchor?

Any anchors that we missed?

Anything else you’d like to see when it comes to boat anchors or anchoring tips?

Let us know by leaving a comment.

Tight lines and tight anchors!

Click here to download the Google sheet with all of the individual anchor scores

 click here to join the insider club, related categories:.

• Boat Anchoring , Boating Tips , Fishing Tips , Weekly Newsletter: 7-18-21

Ok, all the tests without chain are really useless! ANY anchor, should have proper amount of chain. That is just how anchors work. Period! And per Chapmans just sayin. That being said, most anchors hold better in certain bottoms then others. I have used a Fortress for years on a 22 Chawk Pilothouse (LOTS of windage!) w great success. But takes some skill to set properly. Also have have many other kinds and types. All have their place, and most vessels, even small, should carry 2 types, for different bottoms. But thanks for the great vids. Hope people can see, not having chain (really need 10ft of proper size for boat) greatly affects anchor set.

I have the grappling small anchor for my kayak. PLease let me know what you would recommend instead. Great stuff!!

Worst anchor – cement shoes Best anchor – 55 gal drum filled with cement, unknown, and whatever dumped in the tin can grounds off statin island.

Well I, too, had the winning worst anchor which seemed to be a reasonable one when I bought it. I rarely use an anchor since I am in shallow flats most of the time. That anchor didn’t last too long – it rusted worse than most so I pitched it. I use my old galvanized Danforth and it is holding up. Perhaps I will get a Plow or Bruce when the old one gives up. Shorter rode would be a selling point.

Get a Mantus anchor, similar to a plow but self righting. Best anchor ever.

No box anchor included in the test? I use a box on my pontoon and a fluke on my bass boat.

Please remember: You won’t use your best bower for holding fishing marks. For permanent parking. The chain does most of the work. Lots of heavy chain + cable up to seven times the depth of the water at high tide.

For fishing, you will use a very much lighter kedge. Possibly, even without chain. You will probably tow it from mark to mark. Very physical, even with a winch. If it slips now and again so what. Just curse and reset it. You will be on the boat after all.

Best Bower is your insurance for your pride and joy. Best you can accomodate / afford.

Kedge will be your bain. Usually lives like Odo in a bucket. Filthy, heavy, awkward and bloody hard work. Consider if you can set and reset it 10 times on a tide. Can I tow it? Make sure you can afford it when you loose it. Must trip easily so you can get it back off a dodgy bottom.

Choice! The excellent research has been done for you. Many thanks all round.

A rider. As a massive chain swings with the tide, it sterilizes the sea bed. Tremendous destruction. Use fore and aft permanent moorings in the absense of “Eco Moorings”. We are installing the latter, especially to conserve sea grass.

Did you test a Navy Anchor?

I think any “absolute” advice has to be given and/or taken with a grain of salt. I say this because everyone’s frequency of use, depth of water, and type of bottom they anchor in is different. For example, I rarely use an anchor (thanks to Minn Kota and Power Pole) but my anchor resides in the anchor locker of my 22 foot bay boat 24/.7. The anchor in my boat is an FX7 Fortress without any chain. If and when I do anchor (maybe 6 or 8 times a year), it is either mud or sand……and the Fortress locks up tight…..even to the point that, oftentimes, I have to use the boat to pull it up. I personally have no need for a 10 to 15 lb anchor in the bow! Obviously, that would change if I were trying to anchor in 10 feet of water with 20 feet of rope, or anchoring in grass, or ……….

I do indeed have bruce anchors on my boat. I learned of them long ago as a member of the sailing community as they are very popular with cruisers who live on their sailboats. I carry a 10kg Bruce on my 24’ bay boat and a second smaller one. I learned to carry what is called a kedge anchor which really is just a small anchor that you can either throw or manually place to help pull you off a lee shore, when you run aground or are in danger of doing so. I use a 7# bruce anchor with 5’ of stainless chain and 75’ of 5/16” nylon for my line. I can throw this anchor about 50’. Let it settle to the bottom and then set it and pull yourself either off a sandbar or back out to deeper water. It has saved the day more than once and it is also a nice anchor for a dingy or kayak.

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Anchoring & Mooring

With so much investment literally riding on your anchor, your boat's anchoring system is no place to cut corners. your choice of anchor depends on the size and type of your boat, and the weather and anchoring conditions you generally encounter..

Boats with heavy displacements or superstructures that present a great deal of wind resistance need heavier gear. The same is true of cruising yachts that brave a wide variety of conditions and may sometimes have to anchor in open waters.

Although not required by Federal Law, it is recommended you carry one anchor of sufficient size and strength to hold your boat for an extended period, like overnight--or in an emergency situation, such as if you run out of gas. When you are thinking or buying an anchor - BIGGER IS BETTER.

Also, there is safety in numbers. No anchor will work for you in every situation, so if you have space carry two anchors--preferably of different types.Many people choose to carry a small anchor, or "lunch hook", and a larger working or storm anchor. The lunch hook is for use in calm weather and when the crew is monitoring the anchor. Working and storm anchors are useful at times when the crew is asleep or ashore, and during heavy weather, when winds are 30 miles an hour and over.

The general name for all of the equipment you need to anchor your boat is "ground tackle". This includes an anchor, chain, line and connecting elements. The anchor line, including chain, is called the rode.

Playing Hooky

Just as boats come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, so do anchors. Choosing an anchor is easy, choosing the right one for your boat can be very difficult. Your first task in choosing an anchor is to have an understanding of three things:

• Your Boat - Your boats' size, weight and design characteristics affect what kind of anchor you will need to use. For instance, a 30 foot 10,000 pound houseboat needs a larger anchor than a 30 foot 6000 pound speedboat.
• Where You're Going - Where you plan to anchor often dictates what type of anchor you should use. Is the bottom rock, or is it soft mud? If you are not familiar with the area, ask around or look at a local chart.
• Local Conditions - Anchoring in a calm protected cove can be quite different than anchoring offshore or on a large open bay. And don't forget the weather--high winds, tides and waves can all make anchoring difficult, if not impossible.

Anchors are rated by "holding power"--which is the ability of an anchor to hold a given weight. Keep in mind that a 10,000 pound boat may only require an anchor with a holding power of a few hundred pounds on a calm day, but may need 1,000 pounds of holding power or more on a stormy day.

Anchor Types

There are several types of anchors and you should choose a style based on the bottom characteristics in the areas you will anchor most often. Then, choose a size based on the size and weight of your boat.

Lightweight or "Danforth" Anchors

Lightweight type anchor with two long pivoting "flukes"; designed to reduce clogging with mud and grass; range from 2.5 pounds to nearly 200 pounds, and are generally made of cast galvanized metal, though some models are machined from a light-weight aluminum composite. When dropped, flukes dig the anchor into the bottom and the anchor buries itself and part of the anchor line.

Commonly used on small recreational boats, as they are relatively light weight for the amount of holding power they provide, especially in comparison to other anchors. Best in hard sand or mud, where flukes can easily dig into the bottom.

Not recommended for very soft or loose mud, which can ball up around the flukes; or on rocky bottoms where the flukes cannot penetrate. Also not recommended for grassy bottoms, which the flukes tend to slip off.

Kedge or Navy Anchors

A more traditional style anchor with arks, flukes and stock. Good in heavy grass, weeds, rocky bottoms or hard sand where one arm can penetrate a crevice. Not good in mud or loose sand, where flukes can't dig in.

Functions differently than previous anchors as it is not a burying anchor; one arm digs into bottom and one lies exposed. Generally only used by very large ships, as it relies on weight for most of the holding power; not really suitable for recreational use other than for a lunch hook.

Grapnels Anchors

Very inexpensive, but not much holding power. Some models are made of bent re-bar, others are made of galvanized metal and have folding flukes. Good for recovering items on the bottom, or for wreck reef anchoring. Commonly used on very small boats such as canoes or jon boats.

Plow or "CQR/DELTA" Anchors

The plow styles' good holding power over a wide variety of bottom types makes it a top choice of cruising boaters. Has either a fixed (Delta style) or a pivoting (CQR) shank.

When dropped in the water, a plow lands on its side, then when pulled, buries itself. Its shape allows it to reset fairly easily should the wind or tide shift the boat position.

Great in sand and on rocky bottoms, weeds and grass. Does not do well in soft bottoms. Generally made of galvanized metal, though they are available in stainless steel.

Claw or "BRUCE" Anchors

Unique shape of the claw allows a 360 degree turn without breaking out. Has similar performance to plow anchors,at a lower weight.

Sets just like a plow, but curved flukes make it easier for a claw to right itself no matter how it lands on the bottom, or how much the boat gets swung around.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom anchors get their name from, as you might imagine, their rounded, mushroom shape. Mushroom anchors are used extensively for moorings, and can weigh several thousand pounds for this use.

The shape works best in soft bottoms, where it can create a suction that can be difficult to break. Decent for very small boats to use as a lunch hook, but not practical for larger boats. Both Buoys and Beacons may have lights attached, and may have a sound making device such as a gong, bell or horn. Both Buoys and Beacons may be called "marks".

Line and Gear

Depending upon the size and type of your boat, and where you anchor--your choices for an anchor line are either an all-rope anchor rode, a combination of rope and chain, or all chain.

Nylon Line in Three-Strand Twist

Three-strand line can absorb shock and the constant tugging associated with anchoring much better than braided line or chain alone. Chain may also be used, especially in anchorages that are primarily rock or coral, which may cut a nylon line. A length of chain should be used between the anchor and a longer length of line. The chain will add weight to set your anchor without making it too heavy to lift manually, while serving to exert a horizontal pull on the anchor to set it.

Nylon Three-Strand line is the leading choice for use as an anchoring line. Lines generally come in a "soft" or "medium" lie. Soft lines are generally softer to the touch, and loosely woven. These aren't as good as medium or hard lines for anchoring, as they are more prone to unraveling and chafing. Tightly wrapped lines are the best choice for anchoring.

Lines that have been treated with a wax-like coating are available. These lines help the line resist water/salt absorption. To help keep your lines in good shape, clean them from time to time by soaking them in soapy water. Never use bleach, as it can break down the line.

Chain may be used instead of nylon line for anchoring. Chain has several benefits, including added weight, chafe and wear resistance, and high strength. It also lowers the angle of pull on the anchor, which helps it to set more firn\mly into the bottom.

Chain is generally found made of galvanized steel, though you can find stainless steel and vinyl coated chain, which is designed to be non-marring to your deck.

Chain comes in three general varieties: "Proof Coil" is the most common, and is adequate for most marine uses. "BBB" ("Triple B" or "3B") chain has thicker, shorter links than proof chain. BBB is slightly stronger than proof chain, and is generally used for windlasses. Finally, "Hi-Test" chain is made of hardened steel, and is stronger and lighter than proof coil. Hi-test chain is favored by those wishing to avoid carrying too much weight.

Combination anchor-rodes consist of both chain and nylon line. You may buy a combination rode, or you may make one yourself. Generally, it is recommended to have either one foot of chain for each foot of boat length, or to have one pound of chain for each pound of anchor length. Which ever method you choose, having more chain than necessary is never a bad idea.

As the saying goes, a chain is only as strong as its' weakest link...Make sure that your anchor and line are attached to each other with adequate gear. Some lines come with plastic thimbles or eyes--but metal, either marine-grade stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized steel, is best. Swivels and shackles should be inspected regularly for wear, and to ensure that the connections are tight and functional.

Scope: Length of the anchor line/ height of the deck cleat to the sea bed.

Before leaving the dock, you will need to determine how much anchor line, or "rode", you will need. It is recommended that you use a scope of 7:1, meaning that for every foot of water depth, you should use 7 feet of rode.

For example, to anchor in 10 feet of water, you would pay out 70 feet of line. Measure the scope as the ratio of the length of the anchor rode to the height of the bow above the bottom. If you're using a lightweight anchor on a small boat in good weather conditions, a shorter scope of 5:1 is sufficient and safe. A prudent boater always has extra line and chain on hand, just in case.

Minimum Working Rode Sizes

Suggested holding sizes assume fair holding ground, scope of at least 5:1 to 10:1, and moderate shelter from high seas.

Boats that operate generally in shallow waters, as on the East Coast of the United States, may get by with shorter rode lengths. As the wind picks up, deploying additional line will help maintain position, as will tossing out an extra anchor.

Setting Anchor

Anchoring can be accomplished quickly and easily by following a few simple steps.

• Check your chart for bottom characteristics and to determine that you are anchoring in a safe and allowable place. If there are rocks, shoals, reefs or other boats to consider, give them all as wide a berth as possible. Remember that other boats will often have different requirements for anchor rode length--larger or taller boats frequently need a great deal of rode. Also, keep in mind a possible swing of 360 degrees about the anchor with wind shifts or current changes.
• If your crew is not already wearing PFDs, have them put one on before going forward to set or retrieve an anchor or mooring.
• Secure the bitter end of the anchor line to a bow cleat. Make sure the line is ready to run free once tossed overboard.
• Head into the wind or current. Reduce speed and reverse the engine. When the boat starts to make a slight sternway through the water, lower - do not throw - the anchor.
• After you've let about a third of your line out, tug the anchor line to see how firmly it's set, and then continue to release the rode.
• Once you let out an appropriate amount of scope, make sure the line is properly tied off on the bow cleat.
• Even if anchoring only in designated anchoring areas, it is always prudent to have the appropriate signal such as an all-around white light on to notify other boats that you are anchored at night. During the day you must display a ball shape which is sized according to the size of your boat.

Staying Put

It's a good idea to take two immediate bearings. Select two items, one off each beam, that form a natural range and watch for any changes in their relationship. You can check these later to determine if you're boat is swinging as expected or if you're dragging anchor.

Picking Up a Mooring

One of the best ways to avoid the hassles of anchoring is to chose a cove or harbor with moorings available for your use. Mooring balls are identified by their white spherical or can shape, and having a blue horizontal band. It may have a number designation, a VHF contact # or name on it. You will typically have to pay a small fee to the harbor master to use a public mooring, but you can count on it being far cheaper than paying for dockage for the night.

Public moorings are professionally maintained and will use a large anchor or helix screw fixture to maintain position. The harbor master will let you know if the weight or length of your boat is too big for that particular mooring. Although moorings are typically more secure than anchors, moorings can and do periodically give way. For this reason, and for the obvious courtesy reasons, you should never pick up and use a mooring that does not belong to you.

Common Anchoring Mistakes

• Letting the anchor go with out securing the line to the boat.
• Letting the anchor go with your foot wrapped in the anchor line.
• Poor communication between the captain and person on the foredeck.
• Approach a mooring from downwind. This will give you better maneuverability as you go to secure your boat to the ball.
• Go slow, so as not to disturb those already moored.
• After putting on PFDs, send a crew member to the bow with a boat hook to grab the eye or the base of the mooring ball.
• Once the mooring ball is at the bow--slow, stop or gently reverse engines to halt forward motion. Use your crew to relay distance information if it is difficult for the skipper to see where the mooring ball is in relation to the boat.
• Loop the mooring line over one or both of your bow cleats. Pay attention to the possibility of chafing. You may want to use your own line to attach to the mooring ball if the one provided is dirty.
• Some moorings may have an antenna like device called 'whip.' This is simply an extension of the ball so you don't have to reach as far to haul in the mooring line.
• Once secure, let the boat drift back and be sure that you are clear of those who have moored or anchored around you. There is no need to 'back down' on a mooring ball.
• Leaving a mooring is easy--just motor or pull up gently to the ball and release the mooring line from your boat. You can then either drift back or maneuver forward to clear yourself of the ball and the associated ground tackle.

Finally, never ever anchor a small boat by the stern! Your engine, and the bulk of the boat's weight rest here. Stern anchoring is likely to result in swamping and flooding.