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Yachting Monthly

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Sailing Brazil: A cruise down the country’s east coast

• Katy Stickland
• December 16, 2021

Often skipped by cruisers, Floris van Hees and Ivar Smits discover tropical anchorages, majestic animals and bustling cities while sailing Brazil and share their tips for cruising the east coast

Marinas in Rio de Janeiro are crowded and expensive. Cruisers on a budget tend to moor at Niterói, on the eastern side of the harbour, which is cheaper. Credit: marchello74/Alamy Stock Photo

The bright green vegetation of the Fernando de Noronha was the perfect backdrop as we took our first morning swim in a fortnight, writes Ivar Smits .

It extended from the top of the striking Morro do Pico peak to the golden beaches below.

As if on cue, a dolphin pirouetted out of the water close to us before another decided to take a closer look at the volcanic archipelago’s newest residents.

In the distance, a turtle came to the surface to breathe. Elegant frigate birds and acrobatic gannets flew around our Buchanan 47 ketch, Lucipara 2 .

Our first encounter with Brazil was nothing short of magical.

The island was in stark contrast to what we had seen while sailing the 1,400 miles from Cape Verde across the Atlantic Ocean.

Fernando de Noronha is the largest of Brazil’s offshore islands and is a port of entry. Credit: Floris van Hees and Ivar Smits

Flora and fauna were limited to fields of seaweed, a single bird and the two fish we caught.

The only proof that we were not alone were symbols of ships on our plotter. At night, we could follow the starry sky all the way to the horizon.

The weather was anything but constant; the northeast trade wind decreased the further south we got, until leaving us altogether in the Doldrums.

There, showers would come and go and just as we wondered how long we would be stuck in this windless zone, a tropical wave brought relief.

Its strong wind pushed us out of the Doldrums and into the area where the southeast trade wind blows. It made the remainder of our first ocean crossing a breeze.

Still, the longer the trip took, the more we longed for land.

Fresh tuna supplemented Floris and Ivar’s diet while crossing the Atlantic . Credit: Floris van Hees and Ivar Smits

Fernando de Noronha, about 217 miles off mainland Brazil, was ideally situated on our route to Salvador de Bahía; it felt like an oasis in a blue desert.

After our morning swim we kayaked to the beach to check in with the harbourmaster, Marcos.

He barely spoke English, so Floris’ Portuguese lessons came in handy. The costs for anchoring and visiting the island were steep, so we decided to limit our stay to two days.

Not wanting to lose a minute, we immediately went for a hike as soon as the paperwork was settled.

Past a small settlement we found a viewpoint from where we could look down on a pristine, golden beach.

Rarely had we seen such an idyllic beach. Coconut-laden palm trees completed the picture of a tropical paradise.

Sailing Brazil: Two sides to Salvador

The second leg of our maiden ocean crossing took another week, but it felt shorter as the weather was fair and our pantry was full of tropical fruit and fresh vegetables.

When we approached Salvador de Bahía, a whale breached not far from the boat as if to welcome us.

Full of excitement, we sailed into a large bay lined by high-rise apartment buildings, which made the metropolis seem like a tropical version of Manhattan.

Our mood changed as we walked through the city. The historic centre boasts colourful colonial buildings, monumental churches, and museums, but heavily-armed military policemen on every corner revealed a darker side.

‘Don’t go outside the centre on foot,’ harbourmaster Dominique advised, so to visit a supermarket, we took a taxi.

We drove past dilapidated buildings, where homeless people lay on cardboard mattresses. At a set of traffic lights, a one-legged woman tried to earn some money by cleaning car windows.

Currents can be strong in the middle of the bay on approach to Salvador de Bahía. Credit: Floris van Hees and Ivar Smits

Down the road an expensive SUV drove through the automatic gates of a luxury, camera-protected apartment complex. The city’s dichotomies were unmistakable.

We saw another face of Brazil when we explored Salvador’s large bay.

We dropped anchor at Ilha de Itaparica amid a dozen other cruisers. It’s well sheltered and known to be safe. There is even a marina , which we only used to leave our kayak to go ashore.

In the small village there are supermarkets, restaurants and even a public standpipe where locals and cruisers alike could fill their bottles and jerry cans.

The city across the bay felt like a world away.

After an easy day sail further south, we anchored at the friendly hamlet of Gamboa, and made our way on winding paths to the village of Morro de São Paulo.

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After a few hours of sweating, climbing, and clambering, we found an ideal resting place on a fairy tale beach. A refreshing sip from a coconut made it all worth it.

The water taxi back to our boat was a bonus. Further south, in the bay of Camamu, we found another idyllic anchorage at Ilha de Goio.

We were surrounded by coconut trees and managed to pick some ourselves; the coconut water was refreshing and delicious and we eked it out as we made our way towards Rio de Janeiro.

Sailing past the Abrolhos Islands, a screeching sound had us fearful that we had a sudden mechanical problem.

Our panic subsided when a humpback whale fin suddenly appeared close to Lucipara 2 , followed by a second.

During half an hour we were treated to a whale song-and-dance performance. Their sounds resonated in the cabin. Occasionally they showed themselves, flapping their fins or revealing their tails.

The route Ivar and Floris took while sailing Brazil. Credit: Maxine Heath

The spectacle reached its pinnacle when two whales jumped out of the water in unison. What a show while sailing Brazil!

The animal watching continued past Cape Frio, where we saw large seabirds. ‘Yes, they are definitely albatrosses!’ Floris shouted after consulting our bird guidebook.

Without moving their wings, these impressive birds hovered just above the water and stayed with us for hours.

Like us, they made use of the steady trade winds that made sailing Brazil and along the coast quite comfortable.

Urban delights

Just as we approached Rio de Janeiro, the sun disappeared behind Sugarloaf Mountain.

The large, iconic statue of Christ the Redeemer, brightly lit, looked down on us from afar as we sailed into Niteroi, just across the bay from Rio.

We moored in the upmarket yacht club, Charitas, and after checking in took a dip in the huge pool.

We could have floated and swam all day but we still had to formally check-in, so we took a ferry across the bay to the centre of Rio to visit the Capitania for the necessary stamps – a must in every town.

Not much later, we strolled through the hip residential area of Santa Teresa, admired gigantic trees in the botanical garden and visited Christ the Redeemer to get a good view of the city, bay and beaches.

Camamu Sound has plenty of protected anchorages , like Ilha de Goio. Credit: Credit: Floris van Hees and Ivar Smits

Back at sea level, we immersed ourselves in Brazilian beach culture, sipping caipirinhas on Ipanema beach.

At the same time, the many favelas on the outskirts of the city reminded us of the staggering social inequality that has become so characteristic of Brazilian urban life.

From Rio, it is a full day’s bus ride through rolling hills to Viçosa. We were there to meet Professor Irene Cardoso at a conference on agro-ecology.

Large-scale deforestation in Brazil is mainly due to livestock and industrial agriculture, including the growing of animal feed and other monoculture crops.

‘The typical approach is to cut down the valuable wood first, burn the remaining vegetation and sell the land to farmers. Where monoculture crops are planted, they deplete the soil and leave behind barren land. Agro-ecology, on the other hand, is based on cooperation with nature,’ she told us.

The view from Christ the Redeemer, Rio de Janeiro. Credit: Credit: Floris van Hees and Ivar Smits

We saw the importance of agro-ecology when Irene took us to a coffee farm in Araponga. Between and around coffee bushes a variety of plants and trees ensured a healthy ecosystem.

Yet the coffee forest offered more than ecological benefits.

‘Farmers pooled their savings to buy this land. Using natural methods, they made the land fertile again after the former landlords had exhausted it. Besides coffee, which they sell for income, they grow various crops for their own use. It works well; more and more people are joining the cooperative. People are even coming back from the slums to farm here!’ Irene explained.

Back on board we chose our next destination: Ilha Grande.

Literally a large island, which, thanks to numerous bays, beaches, and surrounding islands, is one of the most beautiful sailing areas in Brazil.

We would have liked to have explored here longer, but the clock was against us.

Time to clear out

Of the 90 days we were allowed to stay in Brazil, we only had two weeks left, and we still had to sail 1,000 miles to Uruguay.

The further south we sailed, the less predictable the weather became.

‘Where are the stable winds that brought us here?’ Ivar sighed. Hardly any wind was expected for the next 10 days.

Thanks to our light-wind sail we managed to reach Parati, a picturesque town dotted with colonial buildings.

While we enjoyed the atmosphere there, we also constantly checked the weather reports to see if we could sail on.

With the slightest of breezes and a lot of patience we sailed to Florianópolis. There, the zone of calm wind ended abruptly.

A cold front with strong southerly winds was forecast and we didn’t want to be at sea when it arrived.

Yachts can moor at the Museo Oceanographic pontoon in Rio Grande. Credit: Floris van Hees and Ivar Smits

Meanwhile, our 90-day visa had run out, so we visited the authorities to formally clear out.

But rather than leave, we anchored in another bay and waited a week for northerly winds to take us to Rio Grande, Brazil’s most southerly port.

In the dark, we sailed up the river to the pontoon belonging to the Museo Oceanographic, which we knew to be free and informal.

Since we were already cleared out, it felt like sneaking in. It worked: no one asked for our papers.

On our way out, we held our breath as we sailed past the Capitania and an incoming navy ship.

They both left us alone, so with a sigh of relief we said goodbye to a magnificent country.

Sailing Brazil made an unforgettable impression on us.

In a fantastic cruising area, tropical islands, fascinating sea creatures, and bustling cities alternated at a pleasant pace.

The security situation in some places had us worried beforehand, but did not cause any problems.

We were, however, shocked by the scale of social inequality. The contrasts between the elite and the homeless poor were enormous.

Fortunately, we met inspiring people who were and are working on solutions to tackle deforestation and poverty.

If only we could have stayed longer than three months to sail this large, absolutely breathtaking country.

Tips for sailing Brazil

Sailors for Sustainability Dutch sailors Ivar Smits and Floris van Hees are sailing around the world in their Buchanan 47 ketch, Lucipara 2 looking for inspiring and sustainable solutions to social and ecological challenges. By blogging and vlogging about the positive solutions they discover, they hope to inspire people to make positive changes. www.sailorsforsustainability.nl

The security situation in Brazil raises questions among sailors. There are many reports of crime and violence, especially in the cities.

Some anchorages and bays have a bad reputation because of past incidents. These are often known to harbourmasters and other sailors.

Noonsite ( www.noonsite.com ) can provide an up-to-date overview. We had no problems.

The marinas and yacht clubs we visited were secure and we followed the advice of local people and fellow cruisers. We always locked our boat properly when we went ashore.

On hikes, we only took a limited amount of cash with us. The coastal towns we visited are heavily dependent on tourism, so the authorities have an interest in making sure visitors are safe.

We saw many police officers in all the places we visited and did not feel unsafe anywhere. As far as we are concerned, safety is therefore no reason to avoid this part of Brazil.

Upon arrival and departure in Brazil, a visit to the Immigration Service (Policia Federal/ NEPOM) and Customs (Receita Federal) is required.

In addition, check-in and check-out with the Port Police (Capitania) is mandatory in each port.

The order in which the authorities should be visited (Immigration, Customs, Port Police) is important. Most officials often only speak Portuguese. Some basic skills in that language proved useful.

As Dutch citizens, Brazil granted us a 90-day stay as a tourist.

In principle, an extension is not possible as you have to spend at least 90 days outside of Brazil before being allowed to enter for another 90 days.

Rules may differ depending on your nationality.

Publications and charts for sailing Brazil

Royal Cruising Club Pilotage Foundation Cruising Guide to the Coast of Brazil by Pete Hill, 3 part series available on Kindle, 1st edition (Royal Cruising Club Pilotage Foundation, each book £5)

Buy Royal Cruising Club Pilotage Foundation Cruising Guide to the Coast of Brazil at Amazon (UK)

Buy Royal Cruising Club Pilotage Foundation Cruising Guide to the Coast of Brazil at Amazon (US)

Brazil Cruising Guide by Michel Balette, 1st edition (Imray, £39.50)

Buy Brazil Cruising Guide at Imray

Havens and Anchorages: A companion to the South Atlantic Circuit for the South American Coast by Tom Morgan, 1st edition (Imray, £19.95)

Buy Havens and Anchorages from Amazon (US)

Admiralty 526, 551

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Sailing / Yacht Clubs in Brazil

• Sailing / Yacht Clubs

Iate Clube Rio de Janeiro

Iate Clube do Santos

Clube Internacional de Regatas

Yacht clube de ilhabela.

Yacht Club Santo Amaro

São Paulo Yacht Club

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Yacht Club Itaupu

Veleiros do Sul Sociedade Náutica Desportiva

IATE CLUBE DO RIO DE JANEIRO

Infrastructures at the height of its prestige.

Home » Yachting Around The World » IATE CLUBE DO RIO DE JANEIRO

Yacht Class n°24 (march-april-may 2021)

A century-old yacht club, the ICRJ has, over the course of its long history, developed exceptional infrastructures for high-level nautical activities, but also unites its members around social activities and family entertainment.

By Philippe Leblond – Photos ICJR, Daniel Werneck, Jesus, Paulo V°tor.

In its first 23 years, the Rio de Janeiro Yacht Club (ICRJ) was called Fluminense Yacht Club, because of its creator, patron, and well-known member of the Fluminense Football Club, Arnaldo Guinle. He was intended to unify both, but the idea was not realized due to the time and sports options that distanced the associations.

Firstly opened in Laranjeiras neighborhood by its 28 founders (Guinle, his four brothers, and another twenty-three people), the Fluminense Yacht Club had a brief stay in the Bateria do Morro da Viúva, an area owned by Fluminense for its rowing headquarters, unfortunately, the construction of a road linking the neighbourhoods of Botafogo and Flamengo cut this place off and, as a result, the head office did not achieve the expected success.

In 1927, thanks to the concession of the Federal government, the club was transferred to Praia da Saudade, which was ceded over the years for the construction of the ICRJ, now located at 333 Pasteur Avenue, in the Urca district on the shores of Guanabara Bay and Mount Sugarloaf.

The commitment and solidarity of the members at the time were an undeniable source of inspiration for the club’s success. And there was no better “recipe”: an involved team and a place with potential, in a privileged neighbourhood of the city, have allowed the club to grow rapidly.

With the significant expansion of spaces and projects, including the purchase of properties destined for the sub-offices in Ilha de Palmas and the cities of Angra dos Reis and Cabo Frio, ICRJ started to be considered has one of the most important social, sports, and traditional clubs in Rio de Janeiro state and Brazil.

In water sports, it has become an icon introducing high-performance athletes to the world; among several important names, we highlight the most recent Olympic achievement that of Kahena Kunze and Martine Grael, pair of sailors and gold medallists in the 49er FX class of Rio 2016.

Some other Olympic and world champions began their careers at the ICRJ School of Water Sports (EDN), which trains sailors of different ages and classes, in addition to promoting other nautical courses and recreational activities.

ICRJ sport fishing is also a national reference. Ocean, underwater, and pier fishing championships are promoted regularly and teams also travel to represent the club in other cities and countries. Brazilian records such as the largest Marlin Azul caught, weighing 575 kilograms, are part of the club achievements.

Social events in ICRJ have also historically gained notoriety with distinguished visitors such as Queen Elizabeth, Prince Charles, Presidents from many countries, Ambassadors, and various authorities from Brazil and the world, in addition to hosting numerous sailing regattas and world championships. At ICRJ it is possible to enjoy an excellent infrastructure for leisure, sports, and events in a safe environment with paradisiacal views. Both in its headquarters, with swimming pools, restaurants, sports courts, gym, cinema, cultural center, ballrooms, beauty parlor, and others, as well as in its sub-offices, located in strategic and ideal places for yachting, which also have an infrastructure for leisure and events with the possibility of lodging.

In 2020, the club completed 100 years of existence, exactly on 25th March, the date on which its founding minutes were celebrated in 1920. Being an ICRJ member is part of a tradition that passes through generations, it means having a high quality of life and many amusement options for the whole family. The yacht club is currently managed by Vicente Ferreira de Arruda Coelho Filho (Commodore), João Batista Porto Cursino de Moura (Vice Commodore) and José Roberto Braile (Rear Commodore).

Vicente Ferreira de Arruda Coelho Filho : “My best memory ? The 2016 Olympic Games !”

For the Commodore of the Rio de Janeiro Yacht Club, the Rio Olympics are at the top of the hierarchy of the best moments spent within his management. While sailing remains at the heart of the activities of this venerable institution, the President insists on the importance of sport fishing… As well as on the benefits of twinning with the Yacht Club de Monaco.

In what year did you become a member of the Yacht Club? And president ?

I have been a member since October 1990, and as Commodore, since 2018 – biennium 2018 / 2020 and re-election until 2022.

What are the specificities of your Yacht Club ?

Nautical Club focused mostly on sailing and fishing and all its modalities, from ocean fishing at sea up to fishing on docks.

How many members do you have? And what is the percentage of foreign members ?

Currently, 2805 out of 3000. The percentage of foreign members are 6.5% – 195.

What are the key events organized by the Yacht Club ?

The main events are world championships, Pan-American and South American sailing races, Cape2Rio and Buenos Aires Rio ocean races, and also practically all events at national level regarding ocean fishing in all its categories.

What is your best memory as President ?

I have so many good memories, since I have been part of the administration of the Yacht Club, in 1994… But the most striking recent memory, as Assistant Commodore, was the 2016 Olympic Games.

What would you consider to be the advantages of a twinning with the Yacht Club de Monaco ?

Countless advantages, particularly the fact that The Yacht Club de Monaco has such wonderful facilities. We are proud to be twinning with this prestigious club. Our associates insist on knowing the club, just as we are pleased to welcome you at any time. Successful partnership !

When did this twinning took concrete form ?

It was in 2009, when we received a signed letter from Mr. Bernard d’Alessandri, Secretary General of the Yacht Club de Monaco, at the time.

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From 26 Dec 2023 to 30 Dec 2023

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From 11 Nov 2023 to 12 Nov 2023

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2014 Brazilian 420 National Championships

From 20 Jan 2014 to 26 Jan 2014

2013 Brazil Youth Cup

From 28 Feb 2013 to 03 Mar 2013

2013 Brazilian 420 National Championships

From 09 Jan 2013 to 13 Jan 2013

2013 420 South American Championships

From 31 Dec 2012 to 06 Jan 2013

International 420 Class - Christmas Clinic

From 26 Dec 2012 to 30 Dec 2012

2008 South American Championship

From 17 Mar 2008 to 23 Mar 2008

2007 1st South American Coaches Seminar

From 16 Nov 2007 to 19 Nov 2007

2007 Campeonato do Estado do Rio de Janeiro

From 15 Nov 2007 to 18 Nov 2007

2006 International 420 South American Championship

From 11 Apr 2006 to 15 Apr 2006

2006 Brazilian National Championships

From 08 Apr 2006 to 10 Apr 2006

Practice races setting the pace for tomorrow's racing

Final results - 2023 Brazilian 420 Interclub Championship

420 national championships.

Venues for the 2024 420 Worlds and 2024 420 Open Europeans decided

420 general event news.

Final results - 2022 South American 420 Championships

420 continental championships.

Final results in Brazil - Copa da Juventude 2022

Final results - 2022 Brazilian 420 National Championships

Four former 420 sailors are nominated for the 2021 Sailor of the Year award

Sailor news.

Final results - 2021 Semana de Vela do Rio de Janiero

Final results - 2021 Brazilian 420 National Championships

2021 Humboldt Cup - Final results in Brazil

2021 Rio de Janeiro 420 State Championship results

2020 Copa Brasil de Vela - Final results in Rio de Janeiro

2020 RS State Championship for the 420 class concluded in Brazil

Final results - 2020 Rio de Janeiro Sailing Week

2019 INVERNO CUP WRAPS UP

420 CLASS COACHES AND SAILORS CLINIC IN BRAZIL – REVIEW

Development news.

BRAZIL CLAIMS GOLD, SILVER, BRONZE AT 420 SOUTH AMERICAN CHAMPIONSHIPS

420 COACHES AND SAILORS CLINIC IN BRAZIL KICKS OFF WITH PACKED DAY 1

MASSIVE TAKE-UP FOR 420 COACHES AND SAILORS CLINIC IN BRAZIL

REGISTER TO THE 420 CLASS SAILORS AND COACHES CLINIC IN BRAZIL

SIXTEEN 420 TEAMS LINE-UP AT BRAZILIAN YOUTH CUP

CLOSE COMPETITION FOR 21 TEAMS AT BRAZILIAN 420 NATIONAL CHAMPIONSHIP

BEST WISHES FOR THE SEASON'S HOLIDAYS

420 general news.

420 CLASS ANNOUNCES 2019 DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME

2019 420 SOUTH AMERICAN CHAMPIONSHIP - NOTICE OF RACE PUBLISHED

GIRLS CONTINUE TO HEADLINE AT 420 SOUTH AMERICAN CHAMPIONSHIP

420 SOUTH AMERICAN CHAMPIONSHIPS CONTINUE TO FAVOUR LIGHT WIND SPECIALISTS

LIGHT BREEZE TESTS SKILLS ON DAY 1 AT 420 SOUTH AMERICAN CHAMPIONSHIP

RAMIRO COSENTINO/AGUSTIN FRERS WIN SEMANA DE BUENOS AIRES

STRONG 420 PEDIGREE IN 2017 ROLEX WORLD SAILOR OF THE YEAR NOMINEE LINE-UP

EMPHATIC WIN TO ANDRE FIUZA/PEDRO ZONTA AT BRAZIL SAILING CUP

BRAZIL YOUTH CUP IS QUALIFIER FOR YOUTH WORLDS

WORLD SAILOR OF THE YEAR NOMINEES ANNOUNCED

Argentina, Brazil and Uruguay join forces for 420 Class High Performance Clinic

Olivia Belda/Marina Arndt (BRA) Dominate Buzios Sailing Week

André Fiuza and Marcelo Peek win Brazilian 420 Championship

420 Gold to USA and Poland at Youth Worlds

420 Boys Gold in the bag for the USA, podium battles continue for rest

USA and Australia hold lead at Youth Worlds as breeze eases on day 3

Brazil's 420 Youth Talent races on Olympic waters at Copa Brasil de Vela

Closing in on the gold and silver fleet cut on day 3 at 420 worlds.

420s at Brazil's Buzios Sailing Week

Tight Racing Decides Podium at 2015 South American Championship

Tiago Brito and Andrei Kneipp win Brazilian 420 Championships

420 Class President joins 420 South American Championships

Eric Belda/Rodrigo Dabus (BRA) win 420 South American Championship 2014

Perfect wind then too much wind at 420 South Americans

Windy Opening Day at 420 South American Championships

Porto Alegre hosts 420 South American Championship 2014

Martine Grael/Kahena Kunze win ISAF Rolex World Sailor of Year

Agustín Romero/Fermín Jacobs win in Argentina

Rio 2016 In The Sights Of ISAF Youth Worlds 420 Sailors

Brazil 420 National Championships

Chile Wins 420 South American Championships

420 South American Championships

Two races to determine 420 World Champions

First day of Finals Shakes up Leaderboard

Second day in pole position for Brazil and Italy

Final Series cuts determined, Brazil and Italy still Dominate

Italy dominates Ladies and Angola makes debut appearance in Open fleet

Brazil and Autralia wrap up Gold

Podium places assured in 420 fleets

Leaders change on day 3 at ISAF Youths

Italy takes over in 420 girls at ISAF Youths

420 South American Clinic

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After years of headwinds, SA Yacht Club opens to smooth sailing

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In 2016, Christian Craft looked at the tiny slice of neighborhood east of the Tobin Hill Historic District and west of Pearl and made a bet.

The co-founder of Bexar Goods Co., which makes hand-stitched leather accessories, bought two old houses next door to one another on West Grayson Street with the idea of creating a neighborhood destination.

Zoned industrial by the city some time before 1965, that section of the neighborhood, bounded on the north by U.S. Highway 281 and to the south by Interstate 35, had been encroached upon over the decades by warehouses and businesses like the Flasher Equipment Co., which stored barricades and cones on the property behind Craft’s pair of homes.

But like the developers who would eventually buy the Flasher property and turn it into condominiums, Craft saw Pearl’s influence creeping west and wanted to capitalize on it.

Like a lot of creatives who were born and raised in San Antonio, Craft had decamped for Austin, where he worked in advertising. A collection of what would turn out to be fake vintage leather-working tools set him on an unexpected path that ultimately launched this entrepreneurial journey and brought his family home.

After years of setbacks that included legal-savvy squatters, a house fire and a global pandemic, plus the steep learning curve of navigating the city’s zoning and development rules, Craft’s SA Yacht Club, an outdoor food court of sorts, finally opened for business last weekend at 310 West Grayson St.

The name is a play on a confluence of sea-related signifiers, Craft said. The Bexar Goods Co.’s Airstream is a Land Yacht edition , the structures are shipping containers — get it? Like on an ocean — and nearby is Go Fish restaurant and the Pearl. He claims that he didn’t even think about the fact that his own name can be shortened to the heritage wooden boat company Chris-Craft.

A handful of picnic tables offer customers a place to enjoy the food and libations from the offerings on site, including the award-winning Naco Mexican Eatery, located in one container and Sippy’s, a tiny upscale convenience store with beer, wine and snacks, in the other.

Along the back of the property sits Jeepney Street Eats Filipino Fusion food truck and Outland, the Bexar Goods Co. land yacht. An orange vintage Volkswagen bug acts as sign and mascot, a tiny anchor thrown out behind it, a captain’s cap on the dashboard.

Perfect weather helped drive a successful opening weekend, Craft said. In between running around the day before the big opening, he marveled at the work it took to get to this moment.

From side hustle to main gig

“This is my first rodeo,” he said. “I hadn’t even bought a house before. I learned all of the lessons on this one. I’ve been hustling this for years now.”

The leather-making tools Craft’s cousin Guy Rubio bought at a Maine thrift store turned out to be more decorative than useful, but that didn’t stop Rubio, Craft and his brother Falcon Craft from forging ahead with their idea to hand sew leather goods for sale.

The result was Bexar Goods Co., which eventually included the Airstream showroom, parked for the past several years at Broadway News. Craft was still working in Austin, “but always wanted to kind of have a space that we owned,” he said.

He began eyeing real estate west of the Pearl, and fairly quickly landed on the pair of houses on Grayson. His original idea was to renovate and possibly connect them in some way. He began calling banks, seeking a commercial loan.

“I called maybe six banks, and they were all like no, no, no, no, no, no,” he said. “I kept asking, ‘Do you know someone who would?’ and that’s how I got to Michael at Citizen’s State Bank.”

That would be Michael Garland, executive vice president of the commercial bank, who suggested Craft meet him at the property and describe his vision.

“That was probably the longest deal I’d ever financed,” said Garland, who recalled title issues and a seller that tried to back out. Not long after Craft finally closed, developers who had purchased the Flasher property sought to buy Craft’s homes. He wasn’t interested in selling.

“They weren’t too happy about it,” Craft said. “But I was like, you’re going to build condos, and I’m going to supply the food and beer and entertainment for them.”

Navigating the system

Craft spent another several months trying to evict squatters who were living in one of the houses. That effort ended only when the squatters started a fire that destroyed the home.

He ultimately demolished both homes, and worked with childhood friend and architect Clay Hagendorf to figure out what to build there. With a limited budget, they settled on shipping containers, stacking two on each side of the property. Each is covered in thin slats of garapa, a Brazilian hardwood.

Craft hired a seasoned zoning attorney to get the property downzoned from industrial to Infill Development Zone, which modifies parking and setback requirements. He then spent most of the pandemic navigating the arcane world of city permitting. Hagendorf said he helped where he could.

“You have to have landscape plans, building plans, mechanical, electrical and plumbing plans,” Hagendorf said, “reviewed by something like 16 different divisions with the city. It took quite a bit of time.” After all that, getting workers to finish the project was its own challenge, Craft said.

He described his method for navigating all the arcane details of development as: ask a million questions, seek out people who could help and go with the flow — but never stop pushing.

As he picked his way through the system, the SoJo Commons townhomes were built. Three of them now loom over his back fence; their construction destroyed half the root system of a once-majestic pecan in the corner of Craft’s property. He has worked with arborists to try to save the tree, but it’s a sad shadow of its former self, most of its branches gone.

Across Grayson at the end of the block, a 250-unit apartment building is going up. Craft is thrilled with this ready-made customer base to come. He’s also mindful of being a good neighbor. He said he’ll likely have some acoustic music, but it won’t go late. He wants the Yacht Club to be a place where neighbors can walk over, chill and have tacos, or grab a six-pack and some snacks to take home.

“I just wanted to put something here that the neighbors would appreciate,” he said.

About eight months ago, Craft finally quit his advertising job, and he, his wife and their toddler moved from Austin back to San Antonio, buying a house in Mahncke Park.

Now that the business is finally open, Craft said he can finally take a breath, enjoy the fruits of his and so many others’ labor — and get to know his hometown once again.

“I’ve just been ‘blinders on’ for so long,” he said. After the opening weekend, he texted his verdict: “The neighbors seem to really love it… Had them coming down multiple times for wine/beer/snacks — using it as intended, so made me super happy.”

More from San Antonio Report

Rep. joaquin castro secures $1m grant to grow casa verde weatherization program, fort sam houston isd seeking school board members, set designer jeremiah teutsch adds deft touch of realism to crimes of the heart, tracy idell hamilton.

Tracy Idell Hamilton covers business, labor and the economy for the San Antonio Report. More by Tracy Idell Hamilton

The Comprehensive Guide to Moscow Nightlife

• Posted on April 14, 2018 July 26, 2018
• by Kings of Russia
• 8 minute read

Moscow’s nightlife scene is thriving, and arguably one of the best the world has to offer – top-notch Russian women, coupled with a never-ending list of venues, Moscow has a little bit of something for everyone’s taste. Moscow nightlife is not for the faint of heart – and if you’re coming, you better be ready to go Friday and Saturday night into the early morning.

This comprehensive guide to Moscow nightlife will run you through the nuts and bolts of all you need to know about Moscow’s nightclubs and give you a solid blueprint to operate with during your time in Moscow.

What you need to know before hitting Moscow nightclubs

Prices in moscow nightlife.

Before you head out and start gaming all the sexy Moscow girls , we have to talk money first. Bring plenty because in Moscow you can never bring a big enough bankroll. Remember, you’re the man so making a fuzz of not paying a drink here or there will not go down well.

Luckily most Moscow clubs don’t do cover fees. Some electro clubs will charge 15-20$, depending on their lineup. There’s the odd club with a minimum spend of 20-30$, which you’ll drop on drinks easily. By and large, you can scope out the venues for free, which is a big plus.

Bottle service is a great deal in Moscow. At top-tier clubs, it starts at 1,000$. That’ll go a long way with premium vodka at 250$, especially if you have three or four guys chipping in. Not to mention that it’s a massive status boost for getting girls, especially at high-end clubs.

Without bottle service, you should estimate a budget of 100-150$ per night. That is if you drink a lot and hit the top clubs with the hottest girls. Scale down for less alcohol and more basic places.

Dress code & Face control

Door policy in Moscow is called “face control” and it’s always the guy behind the two gorillas that gives the green light if you’re in or out.

In Moscow nightlife there’s only one rule when it comes to dress codes:

You can never be underdressed.

People dress A LOT sharper than, say, in the US and that goes for both sexes. For high-end clubs, you definitely want to roll with a sharp blazer and a pocket square, not to mention dress shoes in tip-top condition. Those are the minimum requirements to level the playing field vis a vis with other sharply dressed guys that have a lot more money than you do. Unless you plan to hit explicit electro or underground clubs, which have their own dress code, you are always on the money with that style.

Getting in a Moscow club isn’t as hard as it seems: dress sharp, speak English at the door and look like you’re in the mood to spend all that money that you supposedly have (even if you don’t). That will open almost any door in Moscow’s nightlife for you.

Types of Moscow Nightclubs

In Moscow there are four types of clubs with the accompanying female clientele:

High-end clubs:

These are often crossovers between restaurants and clubs with lots of tables and very little space to dance. Heavy accent on bottle service most of the time but you can work the room from the bar as well. The hottest and most expensive girls in Moscow go there. Bring deep pockets and lots of self-confidence and you have a shot at swooping them.

Regular Mid-level clubs:

They probably resemble more what you’re used to in a nightclub: big dancefloors, stages and more space to roam around. Bottle service will make you stand out more but you can also do well without. You can find all types of girls but most will be in the 6-8 range. Your targets should always be the girls drinking and ideally in pairs. It’s impossible not to swoop if your game is at least half-decent.

Basic clubs/dive bars:

Usually spots with very cheap booze and lax face control. If you’re dressed too sharp and speak no Russian, you might attract the wrong type of attention so be vigilant. If you know the local scene you can swoop 6s and 7s almost at will. Usually students and girls from the suburbs.

Electro/underground clubs:

Home of the hipsters and creatives. Parties there don’t mean meeting girls and getting drunk but doing pills and spacing out to the music. Lots of attractive hipster girls if that is your niche. That is its own scene with a different dress code as well.

What time to go out in Moscow

Moscow nightlife starts late. Don’t show up at bars and preparty spots before 11pm because you’ll feel fairly alone. Peak time is between 1am and 3am. That is also the time of Moscow nightlife’s biggest nuisance: concerts by artists you won’t know and who only distract your girls from drinking and being gamed. From 4am to 6am the regular clubs are emptying out but plenty of people, women included, still hit up one of the many afterparty clubs. Those last till well past 10am.

As far as days go: Fridays and Saturdays are peak days. Thursday is an OK day, all other days are fairly weak and you have to know the right venues.

The Ultimate Moscow Nightclub List

Short disclaimer: I didn’t add basic and electro clubs since you’re coming for the girls, not for the music. This list will give you more options than you’ll be able to handle on a weekend.

Preparty – start here at 11PM

Classic restaurant club with lots of tables and a smallish bar and dancefloor. Come here between 11pm and 12am when the concert is over and they start with the actual party. Even early in the night tons of sexy women here, who lean slightly older (25 and up).

The second floor of the Ugolek restaurant is an extra bar with dim lights and house music tunes. Very small and cozy with a slight hipster vibe but generally draws plenty of attractive women too. A bit slower vibe than Valenok.

Very cool, spread-out venue that has a modern library theme. Not always full with people but when it is, it’s brimming with top-tier women. Slow vibe here and better for grabbing contacts and moving on.

High-end: err on the side of being too early rather than too late because of face control.

Secret Room

Probably the top venue at the moment in Moscow . Very small but wildly popular club, which is crammed with tables but always packed. They do parties on Thursdays and Sundays as well. This club has a hip-hop/high-end theme, meaning most girls are gold diggers, IG models, and tattooed hip hop chicks. Very unfavorable logistics because there is almost no room no move inside the club but the party vibe makes it worth it. Strict face control.

Close to Secret Room and with a much more favorable and spacious three-part layout. This place attracts very hot women but also lots of ball busters and fakes that will leave you blue-balled. Come early because after 4am it starts getting empty fast. Electronic music.

A slightly kitsch restaurant club that plays Russian pop and is full of gold diggers, semi-pros, and men from the Caucasus republics. Thursday is the strongest night but that dynamic might be changing since Secret Room opened its doors. You can swoop here but it will be a struggle.

Mid-level: your sweet spot in terms of ease and attractiveness of girls for an average budget.

Started going downwards in 2018 due to lax face control and this might get even worse with the World Cup. In terms of layout one of the best Moscow nightclubs because it’s very big and bottle service gives you a good edge here. Still attracts lots of cute girls with loose morals but plenty of provincial girls (and guys) as well. Swooping is fairly easy here.

I haven’t been at this place in over a year, ever since it started becoming ground zero for drunken teenagers. Similar clientele to Icon but less chic, younger and drunker. Decent mainstream music that attracts plenty of tourists. Girls are easy here as well.

Sort of a Coyote Ugly (the real one in Moscow sucks) with party music and lots of drunken people licking each others’ faces. Very entertaining with the right amount of alcohol and very easy to pull in there. Don’t think about staying sober in here, you’ll hate it.

Artel Bessonitsa/Shakti Terrace

Electronic music club that is sort of a high-end place with an underground clientele and located between the teenager clubs Icon and Gipsy. Very good music but a bit all over the place with their vibe and their branding. You can swoop almost any type of girl here from high-heeled beauty to coked-up hipsters, provided they’re not too sober.

Afterparty: if by 5AM  you haven’t pulled, it’s time to move here.

Best afterparty spot in terms of trying to get girls. Pretty much no one is sober in there and savage gorilla game goes a long way. Lots of very hot and slutty-looking girls but it can be hard to tell apart who is looking for dick and who is just on drugs but not interested. If by 9-10am you haven’t pulled, it is probably better to surrender.

The hipster alternative for afterparties, where even more drugs are in play. Plenty of attractive girls there but you have to know how to work this type of club. A nicer atmosphere and better music but if you’re desperate to pull, you’ll probably go to Miks.

Weekday jokers: if you’re on the hunt for some sexy Russian girls during the week, here are two tips to make your life easier.

Chesterfield

Ladies night on Wednesdays means this place gets pretty packed with smashed teenagers and 6s and 7s. Don’t pull out the three-piece suit in here because it’s a “simpler” crowd. Definitely your best shot on Wednesdays.

If you haven’t pulled at Chesterfield, you can throw a Hail Mary and hit up Garage’s Black Music Wednesdays. Fills up really late but there are some cute Black Music groupies in here. Very small club. Thursday through Saturday they do afterparties and you have an excellent shot and swooping girls that are probably high.

Shishas Sferum

This is pretty much your only shot on Mondays and Tuesdays because they offer free or almost free drinks for women. A fairly low-class club where you should watch your drinks. As always the case in Moscow, there will be cute girls here on any day of the week but it’s nowhere near as good as on the weekend.

In a nutshell, that is all you need to know about where to meet Moscow girls in nightlife. There are tons of options, and it all depends on what best fits your style, based on the type of girls that you’re looking for.

Related Topics

• moscow girls
• moscow nightlife

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Local Attractions / Travel

The best golf clubs in moscow: luxury, exclusivity, and entertainment.

By Walter Raymond

February 24, 2015

• The Best Golf Clubs in…

In Russia, the western concept of building architecturally beautiful golf courses filled with modern and luxurious amenities has found fertile ground. What was considered a frivolous pastime during the time of the Soviets has become the latest trend for the stylish set. These days, there are countless options around Moscow to practice golf, polo, ski, yachting, and other sports alongside 5-star hotels, luxurious country houses, and magnificent villas.

The game of golf is a sport that requires passion and expertise. It is also part of a culture that considers this pastime a synonym of social prestige and exclusivity. In recent years, the new Russian elite has turned to golf as a vehicle of integration in the era of globalization. Golf courses are also meeting and socializing spaces where Muscovite tycoons can relax and also seal business deals.

Golf Courses in Russia

The Moscow Country Club, Pestovo Golf & Yacht Club, Tseleevo Golf & Polo Club, and Zavidovo Golf Club, PGA National Russia are some of the most exclusive and elegant golf courses in Russia. Some of them have made it to the list of Top 15 golf clubs in the world, a source of great prestige for the country.

Moscow Country Club Moscow Country Club

The first 18-hole golf course built in Russia, Moscow Country Club, hosts the exclusive PGA European Tour. Located just eight miles from the city center, this luxurious facility was created by architect Robert Trent Jones Jr . The design takes advantage of a typical Russian birch and spruce forest to provide a natural environment of extraordinary beauty.

Pestovo Golf & Yacht Club Pestovo Golf & Yacht Club

The Pestovo Golf & Yacht Club is 18 miles from the heart of Moscow, close to historical monuments from the 17th and 18th centuries. Designed by famed architects Paul and Dave Thomas , this 18-hole course is part of a complex that includes a yacht club, an equestrian center, and a health and wellness facility. Pestovo Golf & Yacht Club is Russia’s version of a classic country club with multiple attractions.

Tseleevo Golf & Polo Club Tseleevo Golf & Polo Club

This park is among the best in Eastern Europe and was awarded the 2014 World Golf Award as the best golf course in Russia. Located 25 miles from Moscow, it is part of a vast complex featuring an 18-hole golf course, designed by Jack Nicklaus , a polo club and a mountain ski club with four tracks. The design combines classic Scottish, Alpine, and English features in a dreamy landscape.

Zavidovo Golf Club, PGA National Russia Zavidovo Golf Club, PGA National Russia

Less than 60 miles from Moscow, this golf course with a definite Scottish design is the only one in Russia recognized as a PGA (Professional Golfers’ Association) from Britain and Ireland. Located in an ecologically pristine area on the banks of the Volga River, the Zavidovo Golf Club embodies the spirit and appearance of the legendary Scottish golf courses. Its many springs and streams, hills, forests, swamps and lakes justify its reputation as a very demanding circuit. Last year, it entered the exclusive club of the 15 best golf courses in the world.   ■

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There is no nudity in the game. Non-nudity sexual events are handled in a humorous way. The game DOES NOT include any events of these, such as sexual assault/non-consensual sex, drug abuse, self-harm, or suicide.

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