centerboard sailboat definition

What is a Sailboat Centerboard?

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

A sailboat centerboard is a retractable fin that protrudes from the bottom of the hull. The centerboard keeps the boat stable and on course.

Centerboards are an important and often overlooked part of a sailboat, but they're essential to stability and effective navigation. Centerboards perform the function of a keel and keep the boat on course regardless of wind direction. Centerboards are primarily found on small trailerable vessels, which vary in length from 12 to 25 feet.

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How a Centerboard Works

Centerboards look similar to fin keels, but they have one notable difference: they're retractable. Small sailboats use centerboards for stability and to keep a straight course, especially when sailing windward .

Technically speaking, a centerboard is a rudimentary form of a hydrofoil. In practicality, it's like a rudder that always stays amidships. This is beneficial, as it forces the boat to track a straight course regardless of what direction the wind is blowing.

Without the centerboard, the wind would push the sailboat in whatever direction it was blowing. Tacking would be nearly impossible, and attempting to sail windward could simply knock down the boat. In this sense, the centerboard performs the same function as a fixed-keel.

Centerboard Sailboat Characteristics

Centerboard sailboats are typically less than 25 feet in length and designed for shallow water. In fact, centerboard boats are perfect for shallow water. Cruising in lakes and rivers is a joy with a centerboard boat, as the board can be retracted for towing, beaching, or skimming over shallow water. Centerboard sailboats are the ultimate shoal-draft vessels.

Centerboards descend from a hollow cavity in the center of the boat. This cavity is called the centerboard trunk. Some centerboards are removable and slide vertically into the centerboard trunk. Others are hinged or enclosed, allowing them to be raised and lowered from inside the cabin without removal.

Removable Centerboards

Removable centerboards are usually found on the smallest sailboats. These blades tend to be roughly twice the length of how they look from under the boat. This is because the centerboard trunk has to be above the waterline. Remember, the centerboard trunk is effectively a hole in the boat, so it can't be the same height as the water.

Enclosed Centerboards

Enclosed centerboards are common on mid-sized and larger 'small' boats. They're especially common on vessels equipped with cabins. The primary benefit of an enclosed centerboard is water tightness, as the board is housed within a sealed centerboard trunk.

Enclosed centerboards can be raised and lowered from inside the cabin and never needs to be removed from the boat. They're also shorter (overall) than removable centerboards, as they don't mount to the very top of the high centerboard trunk.

The primary drawback of enclosed centerboards is increased complexity and access issues. But in most cases, small centerboard craft are not usually in the water long enough for severe growth issues. Additionally, retracting the board can protect it from excessive marine gunk.

Hinged Centerboards

Hinged centerboards (or 'swing keel' centerboards) are the most common enclosed variety. Hinged centerboards pivot on a forward hinge. They're long and thin and sometimes stow in a hidden centerboard trunk that's mounted to the bottom of the hull.

These 'stealth' centerboard trunks free up cabin space at the expense of a few inches of draft. Hinged centerboards offer an increased level of grounding safety, as they retract on their own if they hit the ground (instead of shearing off). It's the collapsing steering column of sailboat keels .

Advantages of Centerboard Sailboats

The primary advantage of a centerboard boat is its inherent shoal-draft capability. That means centerboard boats can go a lot closer to shore than fixed-keel vessels. They can even go on shore, and drying out during low tide is rarely hazardous. They sit upright on dry land, and they're easy to trailer around.

The cost to construct, own, and maintain a centerboard cruiser is often far less than a traditional fixed- keel sailboat . This is primarily because you usually don't need a crane to pull it out of the water. Centerboard boats are often small and light enough to leave on a trailer, and their small size avoids excessive marina fees.

Disadvantages of Centerboard Sailboats

Can you cross an ocean in a centerboard sailboat? Most would caution against it. Some would say, "absolutely not," but it has happened a time or two. The issues with centerboard sailboats are size, displacement, draft, and stability, which cause problems in rough weather.

Most centerboard sailboats are only comfortable in calm coastal and inland waters. Conditions aboard a shoal-draft sailboat in foul weather range from uncomfortable to downright perilous, which is a major tradeoff. Additionally, small centerboard sailboats typically lack the cabin and storage space necessary for seagoing provisions.

Also, most small centerboard sailboats simply aren't designed for extended cruising. Things like generators, VHF radios, large freshwater tanks, and bathroom facilities usually aren't up to the task on small boats.

Centerboard Sailboat Propulsion

The smallest centerboard sailboats, such as Sunfish and Laser racers, have no propulsion system other than the sail itself. However, anything beyond 15 feet in length will probably have some alternative propulsion. Small boats have an oar or two on board, but most utilize a 5 to 10-horsepower outboard motor.

Inboard motors are rare, but a one or two-cylinder marine diesel can sometimes be found below the cockpit of a centerboard cruiser. Some small 'motor-sailer' boats have inboard engines and a centerboard for sailing.

Best Centerboard Sailboats for Cruising

Centerboard sailboats are ideal for coastal and inland cruising, and many of these pocket-sized vessels include surprisingly comfortable accommodations. These aren't dinghies or converted rowboats; they're serious sailing vessels in a compact package. Here are a few of the best 'all-around' centerboard sailboats available today.

Catalina 22

The Catalina 22 is one of the most popular sailboats ever built. It has the profile of its larger cousins (like the Catalina 27) but features a compact swing keel centerboard instead of a fin keel . At 22 feet long, the Catalina 22 is about as hardy as centerboard cruisers get.

And thanks to its retractable hinged centerboard, there's enough cabin space for a V-berth, porta-potty, stove, sink, settee, and a convertible dining area berth. The trailerable Catalina 22 is widely available on the used market, often for entry-level pricing.

West Wight Potter 19

The West Wight Potter 19 is a small centerboard pocket cruiser with a cult following. It's a fiberglass V-bottom trailer sailboat with a spacious cabin, retractable centerboard, and foldable mast. This little cruiser is capable and convenient, and it's still produced today.

West Wight Potter sailboats are famous for being (quite literally) unsinkable. They're loaded with flotation foam and stay afloat even when completely flooded. Plus, they're easy to sail, and they have an enormous amount of natural stability.

The Hunter 22 is a remarkably well-balanced centerboard cruising boat. Like the Catalina 22, this Hunter sailboat features a compact swing-type retractable centerboard. It has a spacious cabin with room to accommodate the whole family on short voyages.

Hunter designed this compact cruising sloop with a masthead rig, which is simple to operate and robust. These vessels were only produced for a few years in the 80s, but variants are plentiful, and they're plenty of fun to sail.

Centerboard Vs. Fixed Keel

Are you interested in buying a sailboat ? Deciding between a centerboard and a fixed keel is an important decision that shouldn't be overlooked. If you're looking for a trailerable weekender for short voyages and an occasional offshore run, then consider a centerboard. They're cheap and easy to store in or out of the water.

Centerboard sailboats are also ideal for island hopping, as long as the islands aren't too far from your homeport. Florida to the Bahamas is a common and manageable journey for cruising centerboard boats.

And since centerboard sailboats tend to be smaller, it's important to consider how much provision storage you'll need for the journey. Running out of food or fresh water isn't much fun in the middle of the ocean.

Fixed keelboats are ideal for extended offshore voyages and coastal cruising, especially in choppy waters. A fixed keel cruising boat offers superior roll comfort, stability, and handling in a wide range of weather conditions. They're safer in storms as well. For serious sailing, it's difficult to find an ideal alternative.

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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What’s the deal with Centerboards?

Most of you who have followed our journey for some time are familiar with our somewhat infamous centerboard issue, where we ran aground in the Illinois river in 8′ of water when our boat should only draw 4′ . This was the most dramatic and expensive example of the issues we’ve had with the centerboard thus far, but that’s not to say it’s been the only trouble our centerboard has caused us.

In this week’s video, This Little Thing could SINK our Boat , we’re highlighting another pain point and some of the additional maintenance that comes along with having a pivoting centerboard. We’d like to take this opportunity to talk a little bit about the pros and cons of the centerboard system and shed some light on how we’ve been using it with real life examples.

Sailors love to talk shop. It seems everyone has an opinion when it comes to boats, and if you’re not too careful, it can lead lead to hours upon hours of enjoyable and sometimes educational discussion. Invariably anytime we get beyond the general pleasantries of “She’s a beaut!” or “What’s the length?” we know with more and more certainty that we’re talking with a sailor. As the questions get more specific e.g. “How much fuel do you carry?” or “How tall is the mast?” we will eventually hit this question: “What’s the draft?”

Up until this point, it’s only a Q&A session, but as soon as we divulge the boat has a centerboard — and that with the board up we draw between 4-4.5′ but when it’s down closer to 8′ — the discussion will turn one of three ways:

The questioner wasn’t quite prepared for that answer and is dumbstruck because they didn’t know as much about boats as they thought they did, and were unaware of the centerboard concept or are unaware a boat of our size could have a centerboard.
The questioner’s face lights up with a twinkle in their eye and responds with something like: “A perfect Bahamas boat, nice!”
The questioner’s face scrunches up with terror in their eyes: “Why on god’s green earth would you want to maintain a system like that!”

And after three years of owning, maintaining and traveling aboard a boat with a centerboard, we’ve been in each of these 3 camps at one point or another. Let’s dive in and tackle each point of view.

What is a centerboard on a sailboat?

A centerboard is a retractable appendage that pivots in and out of a slot (centerboard trunk) in the hull/keel of a sailboat. Having the ability to raise and lower the centerboard allows the the boat to operate in shallow waters when lifted, while maintaining good upwind sailing characteristics with the centerboard down. Similarly, lifting the centerboard reduces the wetted surface area, resulting in lower drag while sailing downwind. This combination of characteristics makes it possible to build a safe, seaworthy boat, capable of easily sailing upwind off a lee shore, while still allowing the boat to tuck way up into shallow anchorages when necessary.

When first looking for our sailboat , weren’t specifically looking for a boat with a centerboard. It wasn’t on any “avoid ” list of ours either; it just wasn’t on our radar. So when we first saw the boat online and noticed it had a centerboard, we were pretty ambivalent about it.

Is that like a Swing Keel?

Many people have incorrectly referred to our boat as having a swing keel, and for good reason as they are quite similar on the surface. Before finding our boat, we were aware of other boats with swing keels (specifically Southerly Yachts popularized by “ Distant Shores “) and some of their unique benefits. While the swing keel is similar on the surface, it’s an entirely different animal from our centerboard. They both feature large underwater wing-shaped appendages that pivot from underneath the boat to provide additional wetted surface area to reduce leeway and increase lift for sailing upwind. The main difference is that in a swing keel boat the pivoting appendage is actually the keel. In cruising boats, swing keels weigh several thousand pounds, while centerboards weigh a couple hundred. Thus, a swing keel also contains a large part of the boat’s ballast, so the position of the keel can have a substantial effect on the stability and motion of the boat. Additionally, when retracted all the way up into the hull, the boat can be left to dry out while sitting upright in the sand — pretty cool.

Distant Shores II, a Southerly 480

The flip side is this: In the fully retracted position, the keel needs somewhere to go — which takes up interior volume of the boat. Additionally, moving an extremely large and heavily ballasted keel up and down requires some serious mechanical gear, and unless the swing keel is lowered to some extent, there is nothing counteracting the force of the sails to prevent leeway and the boat will not sail to windward.

Whereas with our boat, in addition to the centerboard, we have a shoal draft keel (which actually doubles as a housing for the centerboard). Even without the centerboard down the boat will still sail to windward. Dropping the centerboard only serves to increase the pointing ability and windward performance. The centerboard does not contribute meaningfully to the ballast of the boat (as it weighs about 200lbs), so its effects on stability in the up or down position are muted. It is designed primarily as a hydrofoil to prevent leeway when sailing upwind and is significantly lighter than its swing keel cousin. Lastly, by retracting into the keel instead of all the way into the hull it does not have any negative effect on the interior volume of the boat.

What are the benefits of having a centerboard on a sailboat?

Besides increased upwind sailing performance, the major benefit of a boat with a centerboard is a shallow draft. For our needs navigating the inland river system, sailing the notoriously shallow Gulf of Mexico , and cruising Bahamaian waters, these are fantastic qualities to have in a boat.

The inland river system has a controlled depth of no less than 9′ in the channel from Chicago to Mobile, Alabama, but most of the channel is significantly deeper than that. However , s earching for marinas and anchorages for the night where you have to exit the channel means the depths start changing quickly. With our shoal draft keel we were able to sneak into a number of marinas with sub 5′ depth at their entrance or at the dock that would’ve been impossible in many other sailboats of our size. Even in Mobile we ran aground twice while moving through the marina to get to our dock.

In the Bahamas we find ourselves anchoring way up towards shore with the catamarans instead of much further out near the monohulls. Yet when it comes time to sail to windward, we’re able to drop the board and point much higher than we otherwise would’ve been able to with the shoal draft keel alone. This can shave miles off long passages and minimizes the number of tacks required in a tight channel.

Additionally, dropping the centerboard just a little bit can give us much better handling in tight quarters, as it prevents the bow from falling off downwind when trying to dock in strong crosswinds.

This all sounds pretty good, right? Why would you not want a boat with a centerboard?

What are the issues with centerboards?

With all the apparent benefits, you’d think the centerboard would be a no-brainer. And if you’re purely concerned with performance, then absolutely, it is. However, the centerboard represents an added layer of complexity that just isn’t absolutely necessary for the operation of the boat. Along with this added complexity comes additional maintenance to ensure the system continues operating normally, and even then, when everything is operating correctly, the maintenance itself can create some stressful situations. Below are a few of the negatives of having a centerboard we’ve discovered so far:

General Maintenance

Our centerboard is raised and lowered via a control line, or centerboard pennant. The line is always underwater inside the centerboard trunk, and is incredibly difficult to inspect. The line exits the boat below the waterline meaning we have an unprotected thru-hull without a seacock to close, should there be a leak. The through-hull is connected to a hose and the hose connects to a conduit in the mast that rises well above the waterline.

The centerboard line runs through this conduit and then exits the mast through a sheave at the deck level. It then runs through a turning block and clutch/winch to lock it off. Each of these items require some level of maintenance and/or at least inspection on a regular basis. These are all fairly simple parts, and the system is quite well-designed. However you can probably already imagine some of the issues…

Stepping & unstepping the mast is more difficult

Because the line runs through the mast, stepping and unstepping the mast requires a few more steps to ensure everything goes smoothly. When unstepping our mast, we need to temporarily slacken the centerboard pennant to allow the mast to be raised out of the boat. To ensure we can run the line back through the mast we need to run a messenger line in the mast to be able to retrieve it again when re-stepping.

When re-stepping the mast, extra care needs to be taken to ensure the mast doesn’t get hung up on the centerboard pennant or the conduit it runs through. We’ve heard of other boats stepping their mast only to realize later that they pinched their centerboard control line.

Naturally (or accidentally) slackening the centerboard pennant allows the centerboard to drop, increasing our draft to 8′, unless it’s secured in some other way. We did this at the start of our river trip by securing a line athwartship from each of the midship cleats to act as a set of suspenders to keep the centerboard pinned up inside the trunk. Unfortunately this wasn’t tight enough and slipped off the centerboard allowing it to drop into the fully-down position. This set us back a few days as we fabricated a much stronger system to secure the centerboard line using an exit sheave at the mast partners.

The centerboard trunk is difficult to clean & paint

While our boat was hauled out, we repainted the bottom with CopperCoat . However we were unable to paint the centerboard or the trunk with the same. Had we known better, we would’ve pulled the centerboard immediately after hoisting the boat out of the water with the travel lift. But since it was our first time hauling the boat for storage, we didn’t realize that once we were moved to the hydraulic trailer which the yard used to position boats, we would not be able to get enough height to drop the board and remove it.

We did hang in the slings over the weekend prior to splashing, which gave us time to get underneath the boat with the board down to clean the centerboard trunk and repaint the board and trunk with ablative bottom paint. But we couldn’t repaint with CopperCoat because of how long it needs to dry before being splashed.

The centerboard pivot point is difficult to inspect

The centerboard pivots on a large stainless steel hinge. This plate is bolted into the keel of the boat and has a large pin that runs through the centerboard allowing it to pivot around this point. There is also a heavy duty stainless eye on the backside of the centerboard that the pennant line connects to. Both of which are always submerged in water, and while they are stainless, stainless corrodes in environments lacking oxygen. So these parts need to be inspected on a regular basis, and this means removal of the entire board, which is easier said than done.

The centerboard can get stuck in the up or down position

The centerboard is designed to pivot up and down in the trunk with fairly small tolerances on either side. Any more space than what is needed to get the board out, and it will interfere with the flow of water over the hull, increasing water resistance and drag. Any extra space will also allow sea life to make its way up into the trunk. Thankfully it’s very dark up in there, there isn’t much water flow carrying nutrients into that space, and we have been diligent about keeping it clean. While we haven’t run into this particular issue yet, we’ve heard of some boats that have had so much growth in the trunk that they can’t get the board to move.

While, we haven’t had our board stuck in the up position, but we have had the board stuck down. The centerboard is a hydrofoil, so the leading edge is a bit wider than the trailing edge, much like an airplane wing. And whereas dagger board trunks (where the board drops in vertically) can be contoured to follow the shape of the board almost exactly, our centerboard trunk is rectangular, as it needs to accomodate the width of the leading edge moving all the way through it. This means the trailing edge of the board (which is on the top when in the retracted position) leaves a lot of extra space between it and the trunk, creating a wedge shape… Maybe you can see where I’m going with this…

A perfect storm scenario can brew under just the right conditions. Imagine for a moment you are loosening the centerboard pennant line to drop the board down, but for one reason or another, the sideways pressure of the water against the board when sailing upwind, growth in the centerboard trunk, stops or slows the dropping motion of board — perhaps it even gets pushed back up slightly as the boat pitches forward and backward in a large wave. You, as the unsuspecting crewman, continue to slacken the line thinking the board is dropping, but in reality what is happening is the line comes to rest on the top of the board, and because of the wedge-shaped trailing edge, the line slips down ever so slightly between the board and the trunk, and gets trapped . Once there it wedges in between the board and the trunk making it extremely difficult to move.

This has happened to us twice. The first was an easy fix, which occurred during a daysail after purchasing the boat. We could’ve easily addressed it without getting into the water, but it was hot, the water was clear, and despite being warned about this particular scenario, I didn’t have a good visualization of what was happening and wanted to see it for myself.

There is actually a built-in mediator of this problem which saved us considerable effort: A short section of exhaust hose with a diameter that almost exactly matches the width of the centerboard trunk serves as a conduit for the last 18″ of line of the centerboard. This prevents the slacked line from getting wedged in too tightly and allowed us to break it free with a tiny bit of force.

The second time however, was much worse, and is covered in detail in Episode 24 . We were in the Illinois Sanitary & Ship Canal, in incredibly disgusting water with no visibility, and because we hadn’t secured the centerboard line properly, the board unbeknownst to us dropped all the way down, and under zero tension actually hung forward of its pivot point. In this position, the geometry for pulling it back up is all out of whack. With the protective hose completely out of the trunk, pulling the control line, only wedging it further in between the trunk and the centerboard.

So is a centerboard actually worth it?

While we’ve been both super happy we have a centerboard and a shallow draft, we have also been exasperated by the extra maintenance, sometimes wishing we had a “normal keel.” But at this point we’ve circled back around to mostly ambivalent. The maintenance while sometimes stressful is all part of owning a boat and the benefit of having a shallow draft when needed are immeasurable.

In reality, we probably only use the centerboard 15-20% of the time we’re actually sailing. If you think about the benefits discussed above, it’s really only necessary in moderate upwind scenarios, which we often avoid anyway. It’s just way more comfortable sailing downwind! We’ve also found in light wind conditions the extra drag created by the centerboard outweighs the pointing ability it generates, so we leave the board up. To top it all off, when we’re not actually sailing (which is most of the time when the boat is at the dock, at anchor, or hauled out for storage) the centerboard is always in the retracted position. For the actual lifespan of the boat, the centerboard is in the down position much less than 10% of the time.

On more than one occasion I’ve thought that I’d rather have a keel full of lead where the centerboard trunk exists now. It would give us added stability 100% of the time, we’d have no additional maintenance, and we’d only miss out on the benefits 10% of the time. However that 10% of the time could potentially make all the difference if we really needed to get off a lee shore. Whenever we are using the board — i.e. upwind especially in a narrow channel or maneuvering under power in tight quarters — we’re often saying to each other “Thank goodness for the centerboard!”

In the end, as with everything on a boat, it’s a trade-off. There’ll always be pros and cons of every design decision. There isn’t one right design for every boat or every boat owner. Overall, we’re happy with our Tartan37c and would not pretend to know more than the S&S design team who dedicated their lives to designing these spectacular boats.

Let us know what you think!

Do you have any experience with a centerboard? Did we miss anything? We’d love your feedback.

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21 comments.

We had a centerboard on our very first keelboat, a William Tripp designed Polaris 26. Sailing in Michigan on Lake St. Clair, it was a great feature as we could gunk-hole into all kinds of places. Our horror story was that we once forgot we had it down when sailing into a shallow bay and we touched and pivoted under a pretty brisk wind. That was enough to slightly torque and twist the centerboard foil such that it would only retract about 1/3 the way up before getting jammed in the trunk. We had to sail the rest of the season that way until we were hauled out for winter and the yard could bend it back flat. Our subsequent three boats have all been shoal draft versions, which opens up a whole ‘nother discussion of the merits of shoal keel versus deep keel on the same boat model. Fortunately, we switched our home port to Charlevoix 20 years ago, where sailing depths are almost never an issue on Lake Charlevoix/Lake Michigan/Lake Huron. As you said, everything is a compromise with sailboat design. We were glad we had the shoal draft when we delivered our current boat from Annapolis to Charlevoix last year. We draw 6′-6″ and we bottomed out three or four times in the Erie Canal (supposedly a 9′ controlling depth, but who’s counting?). The deep keel version of our boat draws 7′-6″, so we would have never made it back to the Great Lakes. We are eventually going to be bringing this boat back out to the Atlantic permanently when we retire and plan to cruise the Bahamas and the Caribbean, so even the 6’-6″ shoal draft is going to be less than ideal. But hey, if Delos can do it, hopefully we can. Best to you and Lauren.

Jeff W SV Échappé Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 54DS Charlevoix, MI

Thanks Jeff, 6’6″ is the shoal draft?! We were so thankful for our 4’6″ draft in the Abacos. We could anchor in so many great places!

Yeah as usual your videos and blogs are so helpfull to use on my tartan too, you guys are my teachers, when I bought the boat I had the problem with growth inside the trunk, I left the line loose by unexperience and in a sail trip it went down with the shocking waves, I didn’t know it happened and then on another short trip we ran aground because I didn’t know the keel was down. But after that it got cleaned and all works perfect, thanks!!!

Good to hear! Rest assured, if you’ve done it, we probably have as well!

I had many maintenance issues with the centerboard system on my T 37. I managed to drift into shoal water while anchored with the centerboard half down – a position I often used to reduce roll. This resulted in breaking the lower 3/4 of the centerboard off. I recovered it and on next haul out, epoxied it back together and reinstalled it. Next haul out, the SS pivot assembly had a problem in the flange that received the pin – had to be re-fabricated. A couple of years later (I went way too long without a haul out from this point) the bolts holding the pivot assembly became loose and I was unable to lower the centerboard as the pennant was the only thing keeping it in the boat. Sailing with it up didn’t seem problematic.

It all sounds pretty familiar. I think we have a love/hate relationship with ours. 😉

Hello and love your information, site, etc. Your trips are completely unique to me and the blogs and video are welcome adventures. Keep on cruising and writing. Please.

Centerboards: I was raised sailing all manner of boats with them. We had a 48 Alden yawl with a centerboard. I think it went down twice! We cruised Cape Cod, the US East Coast into the Keys, and Bahamas in that boat and all the reasons to have a board were apparent. I was a kid then and wondered why anyone would build a boat without a centerboard.

Then, I started racing and fell in love with deep draft. Our boat now is 32 feet long and draws 6 feet. Oh my, do we go to windward! We have raced a T37 (same handicap) and we out point him but he out foots us and usually finishes ahead. Cruising is not about hours of close hauled sailing. I get it now!

In our harbor and on the next mooring is the referenced T37 that I am coming to love. Pretty boat and shallow draft. Back to my youthful exuberance for a centerboard. If you guys find you way up to the Cape, I hope we see you. Look into Stage Harbor.

Norm Martin Averisera

Hi Norm, thank you for sharing your story. It’s interesting how some boats just reach out and speak to certain people. All the best!

I have a membership in a sailing club with a collection of Capri 22’s that are not all identical. We have weekly races with them, where you show up and draw boat names out of a hat. One of them has a shoal draft keel, it is always the least favorite draw. Typically, while you might be able to point the bow upwind, it’s moving sideways far more than they other boats (regular keel versions of the same boat). But every now and then the wind is just right, and she’ll clean up, just own every race, but this is rare, relies on just right wind (5-10 knots) and tide conditions that allow her to get speed without being pushed leeward. Downwind, she also has a slightly shorter mast (several others also have shorter masts), but still usually keeps up. Possibly an advantage, but not sure. A centerboard would clearly help her upwind in some conditions. But it’s often going to be hard to really see those conditions without head to head comparisons and if your not caring you can just start the engine.

Sounds about right. That shoal draft boat likely does well on downwind legs given there is less surface area under the water.

We’re definitely not the fastest boat to windward, but we’re not racing. There some shoal draft boats that simply can’t sail upwind at all when the wind picks up. They have too much windage and not enough leverage on the water. We will hit hull speed at 30 degrees apparent in 15 knots apparent wind, which I’m quite happy with 🙂 All the best!

A daggerboard is a centerboard, just as one is an integer and a whole number. If the daggerboard is off center it is a leeboard.

Is that so? I always heard it as a centerboard pivots and a daggerboard slides up and down. But I suppose your explanation makes sense!

You guy’s are such centerboard rookies, but then again, most sailors are. I cruise the extremely shallow waters of the Southeast coast of the US and have always sailed centerboard boats for over 40 years, In fact my present boat is a Presto 36, a 18,000 displacement, ketch rigged, true or pure centerboarder, designed in 1884 by Ralph Middleton Munroe. I have no external keel at all, except for a 9″ X 6″X 12′ long lead grounding shoe, designed for “taking the Ground upright”. My draft, board up is 2′-6″ and approx.. 5′-6″ ” board down. The board weights approx. 400 lbs. My centerboard pendant, a 3/8″ super synthetic line runs upwards from the aft end of the centerboard trunk, to the cabin top via 1-1/4″ SS tube and is attached when it exits the top of the cabin, to a simple 6 to 1 tackle to help raise and lower the board. My centerboard trunk runs almost the entire length of the main cabin and has a 2″ dia. hole in it’s aft end. That hole and a short length of broom handle are extremely helpful for for coaxing a resistant board into going down as needed. I have spent many days pleasantly aground on a convenient sand bar, for recreation or maintenance needs and many a night secure in the knowledge, that no matter how busy the surrounding water are, I’m freed from the worries of getting “run” down in the night. Incidentally, I oft use the board along with my mizzen in assisting in self-steering. Never needed any auto-pilot. Up wind, she’s a drag, but any other course, with her sheets eased, she simply can’t be caught..

My wife and I have a Bristol 35.5 with a centerboard. Our installation is much simpler than the one Tartan came up with – I was very surprised when I saw that yours comes up though your mast. Ours is on a wire winch on the cabin house that runs through sealed pipes over sheaves to the board. I’d say that the vast majority of the issues you’ve had with your board are due to that somewhat quirky design. That said, I’ve always loved the look of the Tartan, and you guys have definitely made fantastic improvements.

My wife and I thoroughly enjoy your channel and following your adventures. Keep them coming!

It is a bit of a quirky system, but running it through the mast is kind of a neat way to hide the control line, which needs to enter and exit the hull and deck. It does present some challenges, but it’s neat out of the box thinking. As you know everything on the boat is a tradeoff, and overall we’re extremely happy with the boat. Thank you for watching!

Hi, how confident are you with the centre board in heavy weather … blue water … hove-to? We are going to look at a 47′ sloop with one tomorrow. I love our current smaller steel boat with a full keel but who knows …

Hi Melissa, Tartan 37s have sailed in every ocean on the planet, there have been multiple circumnavigations. As long as we keep the boat properly maintained, I have confidence in it. I don’t know what type of boat you’re looking at or what type of sailing it was designed for, but I don’t think there is anything fundamentally wrong with a centerboard. Good luck!

We have a 79 Irwin 39 with shoal draft an centerboard, the pennant is mid deck and runs through the sole to cabin top” stripper pole” that is attached to the galley and also serves as handhold under way, the pivot is a SS pin that runs abeam and is puttied over, I need to remove this soon as there is a bit more play in this joint than I’m comfortable with, The boat is very tender and we are contemplating the best way to add ballast to the keel as it heels very quickly and carries a lot of sail. The centerboard isn’t very effective when she’s on her ear for limiting leeway losses . She draws 4’3″ up and 9’6″ down, I never thought about partially dropping to improve turning so am excited to try that when maneuvering around docks. I’m hoping adding some lead will make it less tender and will be pursuing this after haulout.

Peter, sounds like you’re at the beginning of a fun adventure learning more about your centerboard and how it can improve the handling of your boat. It was a fun learning journey for us, and we really began to respect the purpose and design of the CB.

I have a 1966 Morgan 34. The bronze centerboard has deteriatiated beyond repair. Especially in the hinge pin and pennant attachment area Draft board up 3 1/2 ft, board down about 7 ft. Bronze board is at least 250 lbs, about 5 ft long, and is a great template

1..Any guidance on where I can get a replacement , perhaps Foss Foam?

2. Is the weight important to proper deployment. Sure cranks hard..a challenge for an old fart to raise

Hi Capt Ron, sorry to hear of your CB woes. Unfortunately I don’t have any sources for replacement. Weight is important, the heavier the better, to an extent. You obviously want to be able to lift/lower it under your own power. At a minimum you need some weight at the bottom of the CB to prevent it from floating and get it to drop down and stay down while underway. But the more weight you can drop down there the better.

Understanding the Function of a Centerboard in Sailing

A centerboard, also known as a daggerboard, is a critical component of many sailboats and small watercraft. It plays a key role in stabilizing the vessel and allowing it to navigate through varying water conditions. Understanding the purpose and function of a centerboard is essential for anyone looking to sail or operate a boat efficiently and safely. In this article, we will explore the importance of the centerboard and how it contributes to the overall performance of a watercraft.

What is a centerboard and how does it work, advantages and disadvantages of using a centerboard, choosing the right centerboard for your boat, maintenance and care of centerboards, tips for using a centerboard effectively, in conclusion.

A centerboard is a retractable keel found on sailboats and other small watercraft. It is designed to provide stability and prevent the boat from drifting sideways when sailing close to the wind. The centerboard works by creating resistance in the water, which counteracts the sideways force of the wind and keeps the boat on course.

When the centerboard is lowered, it extends into the water from a slot in the keel of the boat. This increases the boat’s lateral resistance and prevents it from sliding to leeward. When the boat changes course and sails downwind, the centerboard can be raised to reduce drag and allow for faster sailing.

The design of the centerboard allows for it to be easily raised and lowered, making it an essential feature for sailing in shallow waters. In addition to providing stability and preventing drifting, the centerboard also helps to improve the sailing performance of the boat, making it an indispensable feature for sailors of all skill levels.

When it comes to sailing, using a centerboard has both advantages and disadvantages. Understanding these can help you make an informed decision when choosing whether or not to use one.

Advantages:

Improved Stability: The centerboard helps to stabilize the boat, particularly in rough waters, by lowering its center of gravity.
Enhanced Maneuverability: It allows for better handling and control, especially when tacking or sailing close to the wind.
Shallower Waters: Centerboards can be raised, allowing boats to navigate shallower waters that would be inaccessible to fixed keel boats.

Disadvantages:

Increased Maintenance: Centerboards require regular inspection and maintenance to ensure they are functioning correctly and to prevent damage.
Additional Weight: The centerboard adds weight to the boat, affecting its overall performance and speed.
Risk of Jamming: There is a potential for the centerboard to become jammed, which could be a problem, particularly when sailing in rough conditions.

When it comes to , there are several factors to consider. The centerboard plays a crucial role in the performance and stability of your boat, so it’s important to select the right one for your specific needs. Here are a few things to keep in mind when making your decision:

Material: Consider the material of the centerboard, such as fiberglass, wood, or stainless steel, and choose one that is durable and suitable for the conditions in which you will be sailing.
Size: The size of the centerboard will depend on the size and weight of your boat. It’s important to find a centerboard that is the right size to provide the necessary stability and control.
Shape: The shape of the centerboard can impact its performance in the water. Choose a shape that is conducive to efficient sailing and maneuverability.

Ultimately, the right centerboard for your boat will depend on your specific sailing needs and preferences. Take the time to research and consult with experts to ensure you make the best choice for your vessel.

When it comes to maintaining and caring for your centerboard, there are a few key things to keep in mind to ensure its longevity and functionality. With proper care, your centerboard can continue to serve its purpose effectively, allowing for smooth sailing and maneuvering.

Here are some tips for maintaining and caring for your centerboard:

Regular Inspections: It’s important to regularly inspect your centerboard for any signs of wear and tear, such as cracks or damage. Catching these issues early can prevent further damage and ensure the board remains in good condition.
Cleaning: Keep your centerboard clean by rinsing it with fresh water after each use. This will help prevent the buildup of debris and salt, which can lead to corrosion over time.
Lubrication: Periodically lubricate the centerboard mechanism to prevent it from sticking or becoming difficult to operate. Use a marine-grade lubricant for best results.

By following these maintenance and care tips, you can ensure that your centerboard remains in top condition, allowing for a smooth and enjoyable sailing experience.

When using a centerboard, there are a few key tips to keep in mind to ensure its effective use. Whether you are new to sailing or a seasoned sailor, these tips will help you make the most of your centerboard and improve your overall sailing experience.

First and foremost, **proper maintenance** of your centerboard is crucial. Regularly inspect the board for any damage, such as cracks or chips, and ensure that it is functioning smoothly. Additionally, keeping the centerboard clean and free of debris will help it operate efficiently.

Another important tip is to **understand the wind and water conditions**. Different wind strengths and water depths will require adjustments to the centerboard position. For example, in shallow waters, raising the centerboard will prevent it from hitting the seabed, while in strong winds, lowering the centerboard will provide greater stability and control.

Q: What is a centerboard? A: A centerboard is a retractable keel or fin located underneath a boat, designed to provide stability and prevent leeway, particularly in smaller sailboats.

Q: How does a centerboard work? A: A centerboard can be lowered into the water using a mechanism and can be adjusted to different depths. When lowered, it helps to counteract the force of the wind on the sails and keeps the boat moving in a straight line.

Q: What types of boats typically use a centerboard? A: Small sailboats, dinghies, and some catamarans often utilize a centerboard to improve their stability and performance in the water.

Q: Are there any advantages to using a centerboard? A: Yes, the use of a centerboard allows for better maneuverability and sailing in shallow waters, as well as providing greater stability in changing wind conditions.

Q: Are there any drawbacks to having a centerboard on a boat? A: One potential drawback is the added complexity and maintenance required for the centerboard mechanism. Additionally, if not properly managed, a centerboard can get stuck or damaged, impacting the boat’s performance.

Q: How should a centerboard be maintained? A: Regular inspections and proper lubrication of the centerboard mechanism are essential for its maintenance. It is also important to check for any signs of wear and tear and address any issues promptly.

Q: Can a boat be operated without a centerboard? A: Yes, but the absence of a centerboard may result in reduced stability and responsiveness, particularly in windy conditions. It may also limit the boat’s ability to sail close to the wind.

In conclusion, the centerboard is a crucial component of many sailboats, helping to provide stability and maneuverability on the water. Understanding how the centerboard works and its importance in sailing can greatly enhance your sailing experience. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced sailor, having a good knowledge of the centerboard and how to use it effectively can make a significant difference in your overall performance on the water. We hope this article has helped you to gain a better understanding of the centerboard and its role in sailing. Happy sailing!

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Centerboard VS Daggerboard The Differences Explained

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Sailing life entails many words that at first make no sense; in this article, I will explain the difference between two types of underwater foils, centerboards and daggerboards.

On a sailboat, the difference between a daggerboard and a centerboard is how they are moved into position. A daggerboard is lifted and raised vertically (up and down) through a slot in the hull; a centerboard, on the other hand, pivots or swings into place.

That was the short answer. There are many more commonalities and differences worth discussing, such as the differences in performance and what happens if your daggerboard hits a reef? Will it break your hull?

Keep reading to understand all you need to know about daggerboards and centerboards!

Table of Contents

Centerboard

The centerboard is mounted horizontally on a rotating bolt at the foremost part of the foil (keep reading to understand what a foil is). It folds into a comparatively much longer slot in the hull than a daggerboard.

A centerboard comes in many different shapes and sizes, it can be combined with an already existing keel, or it can be larger and be more of a stand-alone type.

How is a centerboard operated?

The centerboard is operated through a lifting line fastened at the end of the centerboard fin(board); this line is manipulated either by hand or by a winch and, once fully retracted, will be tied to a cleat.

Daggerboard

The daggerboard, on the other hand, is mounted vertically inside a sliding slot in the hull, it gets it name from the movement, much like the stabbing motion of a dagger.

The board is stopped from moving too far and falling out because the top part is wider than the lower part.

How is a daggerboard operated?

It is manipulated much like the centerboard, through a lifting line and a winch. But instead of being attached through a bolt and swung into position, it is lowered down into place.

What are the differences?

Performance.

Since the differences mainly lie in the way of deployment, there are not that many big difference, but some smaller once worth noticing are;

The daggerboard doesnt have to be either fully up or fully down; this means the sailor can adjust the depth and effects to his or her needs. To low and there will be unnecessary drag, to high and there will be too little lift and too much drift to windward.

On the other hand, the centerboard pivots into position and is only really efficient as a foil once fully deployed.

Reducing the draft of a boat is very important if you want to sail in very shallow waters such as the Bahamas or if you want to beach your cat.

What is beaching a cat?

Once retracted, there is also a decreased chance of getting stuck or tangled up in a fishing net or other semi-floating objects and sometimes hard to see.

On boats where the keel is the lowest point on the boat, the propeller will be protected, but on ships where the center or daggerboard is the lowest spot, then retracting it will make it vulnerable to damage from whales, fishing nets, or coral. You will also not be able to beach your cat since the weight of the ship will be loaded on top of your prop shaft and most certainly will break it.

Once the boards are in a fully lifted position, there is an argument to be made that the centerboard, which has a much larger slot, will have higher drag. This is true, but only if the slot is poorly design and not hydrodynamically smooth, causing underwater turbulence.

A well-designed centerboard should be able to reduce the amount of drag to the same as a daggerboard.

What are the similarities?

Both systems can be mounted in pairs and at an angle; this makes the boards work much as an airplane wing does. Once the water starts passing around it, it will create higher water speeds on the upper side, lowering the pressure and increasing lift.

This makes for less underwater surface, decreases drag, increases speed, and fuel efficiency.

One issue often discussed on forums and with boat people is that a centerboard is safer since if an underwater object hits it, it will fold back into its slot, and no damage will be done. This is true to a degree but worthy of some explanation.

Firstly this is mainly a theoretical argument since an object is not certain to hit the board from straight on; this means that the idea of folding is no longer possible. The next thing to understand is that daggerboards are made to break; this is a safety aspect and makes sure that the hulls stay intact and that the boat will stay afloat.

This is similar to modern mini keels on catamarans; they too are constructed to detach if hit hard enough, the keels fall off, but the hull stays intact.

Both systems offer a risk of getting stuck; some say this is a bigger issue with daggerboards, and they more often fail than the centerboard style. This is not something that I have been able to confirm through any data, and looking at the design of newer daggerboards; there is no real reason to think that this should be the case.

There are many different systems on a sailboat, and everything that can move will sooner or later stop moving due to rust or being filled up with salt and sand. So will too these boards; this means extra time for maintenance and extra money to be spent keeping the systems in good shape.

Compared to each other many would argue that the centerboard is a somewhat simpler system and that they need less maintenance; I would say it is more up to the specific design than whether or not it is a centerboard.

Catamarans and Monohulls

The basic function of a foil is the same whether you’re on a catamaran or a monohull, although some aspect is specific for a cat.

A catamaran will always have two boards; these can be used together or separately. Since a catamaran behaves very differently in big seas than a monohull, the use of foils, especially during heavy weather, is essential to understand if wanting to stay safe.

One situation when catamarans can capsize is while being pushed horizontally by a big breaking wave hitting it from the side. If both boards are down, this will decrease the possible sliding motion and therefore increase the likelihood of capsizing.

This is a complex issue and if you want to undestand capsizing in detail i suggest you read this article;

Why do catamarans capsize

Owner of CatamaranFreedom.com. A minimalist that has lived in a caravan in Sweden, 35ft Monohull in the Bahamas, and right now in his self-built Van. He just started the next adventure, to circumnavigate the world on a Catamaran!

Choosing a Centerboard or Fixed Keel Sailboat

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Centerboard or Fixed Keel?

You need to consider many different questions when deciding what kind of sailboat is best for you .

Depending on the general size range of the sailboats you may be interested in, you may need to choose between fixed-keel boats and centerboard (or swing keel or daggerboard) boats. This article will help you choose which is best for your needs.

As only a very general rule, most sailboats over 20-something feet have fixed keels. Most sailboats under 15 feet or so have centerboards. But there is a wide range of boats from 12 to about 25 feet with either a fixed keel or a centerboard. For example, in this photo, the boat on the left has a fixed keel, while the boat on the right, of about the same size, has a centerboard.

If you are shopping for a sailboat in this range, you should understand the differences between these fundamental types of keels.

Fixed Keel Sailboats

Virtually all large racing and cruising sailboats have a fixed keel. A keel is needed to keep the boat from being blown sideways at all points of sail except downwind. A keel also provides weight low under the water to lower the boat’s center of gravity below the waterline, which is needed so that the boat bobs back upright if knocked over by wind or waves.

Sailboats have many different types of fixed keels , such as full keels (see photo) and fin keels. If you decide a fixed keel boat is best for your sailing purposes, consider also which type keel best meets your needs.

Centerboard Sailboats

On centerboard sailboats, the centerboard functions like a keel to keep the boat from being blown sideways. (All sailboats need a keel of the board for this reason: the narrow, flat surface of the board or keel produces little drag when the boat moves forward but resists motion sideways.)

The centerboard usually hangs down below the hull from a pivot at one end. It can be raised by pulling a line that swings the centerboard up into a centerboard trunk along the center of the boat, as shown in the photo.

Some small boats, like a Sunfish, have a removable daggerboard rather than a centerboard. The daggerboard has the same function, but rather than swinging down, it is inserted like a blade down through a slot in the hull to protrude like a thin keel below the hull. A swing keel is another term used for a type of keel that like a centerboard can be raised.

A centerboard may or may not be weighted. If the centerboard is weighted, then it also provides weight low in the water, like a keel, to help keep the boat upright (although not as much weight as a fixed keel can supply). If the centerboard is not weighted, like the fiberglass centerboards of many small sailboats, then sailors must keep the boat upright by positioning their own weight on the upwind side of the boat.

Benefits and Disadvantages of Fixed Keel and Centerboard Sailboats

Fixed keels and centerboards each have their own benefits but also disadvantages. When deciding what type of boat to buy, be sure you have considered these differences:

Advantages of a Fixed Keel:

Provides the most ballast to resist capsizing and ensure recovery from a capsize
More effective at preventing leeway (sideways movement of the boat)
Crew do not have to position body weight to prevent capsizing (see photo)
No centerboard moving parts to break or jam

Disadvantages of a Fixed Keel:

With deeper displacement, the boat cannot enter shallow water
The boat is heavier for its size (usually an issue only when trailering)
With deeply fixed keels, the boat may not fit on a trailer at all (25 feet is typically the largest trailerable fixed keel sailboat) - requiring the inconvenience and expense of a boatyard for launching, haulout, and storage

Advantages of a Centerboard:

The centerboard can be raised to decrease displacement to allow the boat into shallower water – and it should swing up and back if it hits the bottom when sailing with it down
The centerboard can be raised for faster downwind sailing
The centerboard can be partially raised if needed to provide better boat balance
Most centerboard boats can be trailered and easily launched and hauled out on boat ramps (larger centerboard boats may require deeper ramps)

A popular trailerable centerboard sailboat is the MacGregor 26 , which with its water ballast has the advantages of centerboard boats but not all the disadvantages.

Disadvantages of a Centerboard:

Provides no (unweighted board) or less (weighted board) ballast, compared to a fixed keel, to resist capsizing and ensure recovery from a capsize
Less effective than a larger fixed keel at preventing leeway (sideways movement of the boat)
The centerboard trunk takes up space in the boat’s cockpit or cabin
The centerboard pivot and control line involve moving parts and can jam or break

Finally, some historic crafts have leeboards instead of centerboards; these boards, mounted outside the hull on both sides, can be pivoted down like a centerboard to resist leeward motion. And some sailboats have fixed keel-centerboard combinations, which provide ballast and prevent leeward motion even when the centerboard is up but also provide the option to attain less leeward motion sailing upwind when the board is down.e a centerboard to resist leeward motion. And some sailboats have fixed keel-centerboard combinations, which provide ballast and prevent leeward motion even when the centerboard is up but also provide the option to attain less leeward motion sailing upwind when the board is down.

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A Guide to Properly Baiting Spotted Sea Trout

How a Gybing Centerboard Works by Alexander Meller, with Larry Tuttle, 11/14/2003.

Home » Library » Rigging and Project Archive » How a Gybing Centerboard Works

A number of people have questioned how gybing centerboards work. The diagram included here should illustrate what they are and how they work:

The drawing is of two centerboard trunks, each containing a centerboard, viewed from straight above. Imagine the two boats are parallel, sailing from the bottom to the top of the page, on port tack. The centerboard trunk on the left has a conventional non-gybing board – you can see the parallel sides of the CB head up against the sides of the centerboard trunk.

The centerboard trunk on the right has a gybing board in it. The CB head does not have two parallel sides, rather the head is a parallelogram. Since the boat is on port tack, the centerboard is loaded on the leeward – right hand – side, and rocks to weather in the trunk. That is because the axis of rotation (vertical) is behind the center of area, and more important center of pressure of the board. Gybing boards take an angle of attack relative to the centerline of the boat.

While gybing centerboards with angles of attack of over 4 degrees have been built, Waterat and Lindsay foils are in the 2.5 to 2.8 degree range.

The boat’s leeway angle is determined by the net side force on the sails and the area and effeciency of the foils. The hull has a small effect. An estimate of the average leeway angle is 4 degrees, so the boats in the diagram are actually sailing slightly to the right of straight up on the page.

This means that for a given set of conditions and equipemnt, if you change from a fixed to a gybing CB, the leeway angle will not change. What will change is that the bow will rotate to leeward about 2.5 degrees.

Then things get interesting. The sailplan is rotated with the hull. So the there is less drag on the hull, and you can sheet the sails for the lower heading. This causes the boat to sail faster, which creates more lift. So you point higher. Lift increases as the square of the velocity.

The effect is the most dramatic in conditions where the boat accelerates easily, flat water.

If you merely steer the gybing board equipped boat higher, then you go slower, and the board may actually achieve a higher angle to the water flow.

The gybing board is most effective in light to medium air and flattish water. In windy conditions you do not want the centerboard to gybe. Fortunately the centerboards are designed so that by bringing them up very slightly, part of the airfoil blade goes inside the centerboard trunk, and jams at full width, stopping the centerboard from gybing.

Though Lindsay no longer makes foils, a number of North American 505s are still equipped with them. Gybing 505 centerboards are available from Waterat Sailing Equipment in Santa Cruz California, Milanes & White in the UK, and a number of other sources.

For further information on 505 centerboards

Two Bransford Eck articles on 505 foils from old Tank Talk magazines:

Bransford Eck Article 1

Bransford Eck Article 2

The University of Palermo Italy conducted a centerboard study ending in 2008. The University had chosen the 505, because it is one of the few existing classes that has not significant size and shape restrictions on the centerboard. Many class members provided data and feedback and now finally the results have been published. The report is a theoretical study on how to improve the 505 centerboard. Only one prototype was created and used on a 505 in Palermo prior to the WC. Unfortunately the prototype broke during a high wind test, due too poor construction, and no other prototypes were subsequently built. If you love technical readings, this publication might be of interest to you:

University of Palermo CB Study

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You may have heard that 505’s are some of the most well-made dinghy’s around. Many 505’s can stay competitive for an indefinite period of time when well cared for. Some older 505’s were not built as well, and may not be worth spending time and money on to get back on the race course. This page is organized in a way to help you determine which boat is right for your own 505 sailing goals. Visit the list of builders for more information on all the various 505 builders throughout the years. Also, hull numbers are sequential, and are issued upon initial measurement after the boat is built. The minimum weight of a 505 (weighed with all equipment required for racing except sails) is 127.4kg or 280.9 pounds. Many boats have lead corrector weights (50% located at front of CB trunk, 50% located at rear of CB trunk) to bring the boat up to this minimum weight.

The used boat ads on this page are organized based on the following classification scheme:

The Surtees Service Award was dedicated at last year’s NA’s to commemorate outstanding service to the American Section. The inaugural award was presented to Ali Meller.

It is a pleasure to introduce the 2003 winner of the Surtees Service Award – Jesse Falsone.

As all of you know, Jesse is the epitome of the “go-to guy” for our Class. When a valuable role within the American Section needs to be filled, Jesse has never been afraid to put his money where his mouth is and step up to the task.

In the eight years that he has been in the Class, Jesse has served as both Class Secretary/Treasurer, and President of the American Section.

Upon “retiring” as Class President, Jesse took on the role of Tank Talk Associate Editor, and over the past few years, no one has contributed more material to Tank Talk than Jesse.

Jesse is an incredibly focused competitor who has always found time to pass his knowledge along. After working for years to become one of the top 5o5 crews in North America, Jesse published a compendium on “High Performance Dingy Crewing,” utilizing both his knowledge and that of other top NA 5o5 crews. This pamphlet runs 33 pages, and is literally a textbook of how to climb the learning curve for a 5o5 crew. Any skippers out there up to the challenge?

Jesse has set the bar for 5o5 class members, dedicating a superhuman amount of time & effort into making the American Section the solid organization that it is today.

Although he is taking a well-deserved break from the 5o5 and cannot be here today, let’s have a big round of applause for Jesse.

Ted Ferrarone

I’m very proud to have commissioned this new service award bearing the name of one of our most distinguished members: Dennis Surtees’. Dennis is a legend in this class, both for his outstanding performance and for his superlative service. I’m equally proud to have Ali Meller as the first recipient. Ali has served in so many capacities for this class, most of which many of you don’t know about or may have forgotten. Ali has been fleet captain in the US for two different fleets (maybe more in Canada?). In one of these he was largely responsible for the creation of this fleet at a new club. He served as VP of the American Section, Editor of Tank Talk, VP of international (an office created for him), and is now completing his term as President of international. As webmaster, Ali took the 505 web page and made it the most informative class page on the Internet. US Sailing used our web page as an example of what a great class web page should look like. Ali was also instrumental in introducing countless people to the 505 through personal communications and through sailing time.

Ali’s leadership came along at a crucial time for the 505 class. In the early 90’s we were a class teetering precariously on the seesaw of success and failure. Our numbers in the US had steadily declined, and the class lacked direction. Ali was the catalyst for our resurgence, and a large reason why we all enjoy fine competition today.

Simply put, nobody in the world has put more into the 505 class in the past decade than Ali Meller.

Ali, on behalf of the 505 American Section, it’s my honor to present you with the Dennis Surtees Service Award for 2002.

“I nominate Bill McKinney and Stine Cacavas for the Cahn award. Bill has been with the San Diego for over ten years, and is the guy who always spends regattas in good spirit, with lots of humor, humbleness and grace. And style. After coming in from the race course early one day in Santa Cruz, while sitting in his chair, he greeted every sailor at the ramp with a cold Corona with lime. Yes, his regatta kit includes chairs, a cooler on wheels, and a cutting board. Stine has been sailing with Bill for a few years now, and while she shares Bill’s positive attitude, she also brings a new level of competition to the team. They competed in the 2010 worlds in Denmark sailing Fever Pitch, Dave Cahn’s own Lindsay. For the 2012 worlds in France they upped their game, buying a newer Waterat. I take this as a good sign that they will continue to favor us with their company for many years to come.”

Aaron Ross, USA 7156

Nominated and presented by: Mike Martin

The Dave Chan award goes out to the individual or team that expresses sportsmanship in the unique way of 505 sailing because they love 505 sailing. The award is not necessarily for the guy that wins all the races, but the guy you would most like to have a beer with at the end of the day.

These guys fit that description perfectly. They both came into the 505 picture from illustrious lead mining careers. After the first day of proper breeze in a 505 they were hooked. Since then they have enjoyed attending many of the events in northern and southern California. At the end of the day they are always thrilled with whatever they experienced and learned on the water. They are always willing to lend a helping hand despite the fact that they are usually involved in some major repair project themselves. It is always a pleasure having these guys around both on and off the water and we would all have more fun if we adopted their attitude. That is why this year the Dave Cahn award should go to Brad Wheeler and Bill Mais.

As most of you know, the Dave Cahn trophy was created in 1998, in memoriam of Dave Cahn, and his special brand of sportsmanship. Past winners have included Eric Willis/Wendy Herzburg, Barney Harris, Dan Merino/Bill Jenkins, Henry Amthor, and in 2002, Stuart Park.

Please give a big round of applause for the winner of the 2003 Dave Cahn Trophy: Paul Von Grey.

Paul’s nomination for this award was so excellent, that we will just read it to you:

“I would like to Nominate Paul Von Grey of the Pacific Northwest Fleet for the Dave Cahn Trophy. Paul has virtually single-handedly (no pun intended) been the motivation for the resurgence of the 505 fleet in Washington. He has helped push attendance at regattas from an average of three boats to a recent high of 16. He regularly rounds up sailors following races to debrief on successful and unsuccessful strategies and rigging tips. He serves as the unofficial parts warehouse for most of the sailors in Washington and probably has contributed parts, time or rigging advice to a majority of boats in Washington, Oregon, and British Columbia. He helped obtain a container of highly competitive boats that have raised the quality of racing dramatically. Whether you are a current 505 owner who needs to locate crew or a prospective 505 competitor who wants to go for a test ride, Paul is the guy who helps make the connection. He successfully poaches new 505 sailors from other fleets at regattas and every new sailor in the local fleet has probably been pointed to Paul as the guy to talk to about 505’s.

The Pacific Northwest fleet is a knowledgeable, friendly and helpful group of people and the description above could apply to every person in the fleet, however, no person embodies all of those qualities as completely as Paul.”

Let’s give another round of applause for Paul Von Grey!!

Nominated by Dave Stetson

Jesse, I wish to nominate Graham Alexander for an honorary life-membership in the class.

Graham first became a 5-oher around about 1967 and he has been one ever since. I know only a few on this side of the pond with that kind of longevity in the class. He has owned at least six boats, beginning with a 2XXX series boat; he currently owns two, a 45xx Rondar rigged to race with other classics, and Parker 7685. Not only has Graham been loyal to the class with his presence, he has been one of the class’ most ardent recruiters here in the Midwest. Within two weeks of the day I moved to Columbus in 1985, he was in my kitchen pushing me into the fray, getting me onto the boat, and helping me to find a crew slot. He has introduced dozens of people to the boat during the 17 years I have been around to watch.

In addition to recruiting, Graham has been the organizer of the class in Region 3 for as long as anyone can remember. Ki Kaiser and Graham have worked together ensuring a variety of regattas and spreading the word. He was the formal Midwest coordinator for most of the years since 1970.

Graham has been extremely generous with his time helping people to buy boats, helping them to rig them well, and helping to repair them when they broke. He has loaned his garage, his tools and equipment, his hands, and his expertise for fiberglass work, vacuum bagging, and rigging. Each winter, he has taught Sunday-evening courses on racing rules and tactics, crewing and helming skills to groups of local sailors, including newbees and hardened veterans.

Graham has been one of the true fixtures in the class and he has been one of its best public-relations specialists. Through his energy and love of the boat and the class, he has kept 505s in the Midwest and has kept Fleet 17 alive at Hoover Yacht Club. He may not be the most jolly of 505 sailors because he takes his sailing very seriously. It is integral to his core as a person and his love for the class is infectious. Because of his dedication and generosity, I believe he is as close to a life member as one could come.

Nominated by: Mike Martin and Ryan Cox Presented by: Dennis Surtees

Most of the time when we think about an award for service to a class we think about class officers or people that have volunteered their time in a very broad manner. Howard has served this way in the past by being an international class president but that is not why he deserves this award. Everyday Howard provides service to the class on a much more personal level.

The services that he provides range from straightening a mast, to loaning out his coach boat out free of charge, or letting people use his tools or even his entire garage. If you don’t know how to fix something on your 505, you need a tool or a part, who is the first person that you ask?

His services are organizational as well. Howie is always thinking of ways to better himself and always passes what he learns on to the fleet, even if it is one boat at a time. The Long Beach fleet would simply not exist without Howie. Every year howie takes the lead in organizing our weekly practices. A few years ago Team Tuesday was 1 or 2 boats, this year we often see 7 or 8.

Howie has also provided a huge service to the development of the equipment that we use today. 25 years ago he built molds and long lasting Honeycomb Kevlar boats that are still competitive today. Howies funding of the blade development program resulted in production centerboards that cost every one else much less than the developmental price that he paid.

There is no one more valuable to our fleet than Howard. So whether or not he wins this award, next time you see him, just say “Thanks Howie”!

Sailboat Keel Types: Illustrated Guide (Bilge, Fin, Full)

The keel type is one of the most important features of your boat. But the different designs can be confusing, so I've set out to create a very clear guide that will help you understand sailboat keels once and for all.

What are the most common sailboat keel types? The most common sailboat keel types are full-length keels, fin keels, bulb keels, wing keels, bilge keels, and lifting keels. Full keels are popular among cruisers, while fin keels are generally used for racing. Bilge keels and lifting keels are typically used in tidal waters, on small fishing boats for example.

In this article, we'll explore the most common keel types together. I'll use diagrams to really hit home the differences of all these keel types, and we'll discuss what keel types are best for liveaboard, ocean cruising, and lake weekend trips. After reading this article, you'll know what to choose - and why.

Sailboat Keels Explained

On this page:, overview of sailboat keel types, keel types: fundamentals, modified full keel, centerboard.

If you just want a quick overview, here's a list with the most common keel types and a short description. More detail will follow below.

The most common keel types

Full keels run from front to aft and are the most stable keel type, making them the most popular cruising keel.
Fin keels offer the best performance but are less comfortable. This makes them popular for racing. Fin keels are bolted on to the hull and generally run deep and thin.
Bulb and wing keels are both variants on the fin keel.
Bulb keels carry additional ballast in the tip, making them more stable.
Wing keels have two tips at the end of the keel, which reduces crossflow, improving directional stability.
Bilge keels are double fin or double full kees, which allows the boat to be beached, making them the most popular keel for tidal waters.
Lifting keels are moveable keels that can be lowered and raised, allowing the boat to enter shallow waters as well.
Centerboard keels are a pivoting lifting keel, allowing to sail both coastal and inland waters.
Leeboards are fins on the sides of flat-bottomed hulls boats, making a keel unnecessary.

Properties of each keel type

What does a keel do?

What does the keel do? A keel is a vertical blade running down from the hull. It is weighted and acts as a ballast, countering the boat's tendency to heel and preventing it from tipping over. The wetted surface under the waterline reduces slippage to leeward by creating a track, which counters the sideway force of the wind on the sails.

The reason sailboats don't tip over is that the weight of the keel counters the buoyancy of the hull, which means it will pull the boat downward. This downward force reduces heel and prevents the boat from rolling.

A canoe doesn't have a keel. Try stepping into that: it will want to roll.

It counters the horizontal force the wind puts on the sails. Whenever the force on the sails increases, the resistance of the water on the keel increases proportionally.

The heavier the keel, the less heel you'll get.

A keel reduces slippage to leeward. Slippage is simply the amount you fall off course because of the direction of the wind and current. Leeward is the side of the boat behind the wind.

So if you don't have a keel, you will fall off course quite a lot because the wind will push you over the water surface.

You will also heel quite a lot since there is nothing beneath the water surface to counter the force of the wind high up in your sails.

A keel fixes both of these issues and makes sailboats one of the most reliable boats in heavy winds and storms.

You can read on about how keels work here.

Keels can be classified by multiple dimensions. You can look at them from the side or the front. You can also classify them based on properties.

Before I dive into each keel type in-depth and show examples, let's make sure we have the same starting point.

There are essentially two sorts of keels:

Fixed keels

Movable keels.

Fixed keels are keels that are integrated into the hull or bolted on. They can't be moved or lifted.

When looking at fixed keels, you can divide them up further based on the side view. There are three main categories:

Bilge keels

Full keels are more comfortable, provide better stability and protection, but are also slower than fin keels.

Fin keels are less comfortable, provide less stability, are more vulnerable, but they're also a lot faster than full keels.

Bilge keels are double keels: one on each side of the hull. This allows them to be beached, which comes in handy in tidal waters. They are generally a lot slower and less maneuverable compared to fin keels.

Movable keels can be lifted from the water, creating a shoal (shallow) draft, allowing the boat to enter both shallow waters and coastal waters. This makes it a very versatile keel type. There are two main designs:

Lifting keels

Lifting keels can be lowered and raised through a slit in the hull. Examples of lifting keels are the daggerboard and centerboard.

Leeboards are wooden swords attached to the side of the hull and prevent slippage to leeward, but they don't stabilize the boat, nor counter heel by adding ballast.

With fin keels, there are different tip designs available. The most common two tip designs are:

These are both variants of the fin keel. Generally, these keel designs are mentioned in one breath with full keels and fin keels, creating confusion on what kind of keel they are. But it's important to understand that they are a sub-category of fin keels.

Rudder design

As with the tip of the fin, there are different rudder designs that may apply to both fin and full keels. The two most common rudder designs are:

Skeg rudder

Spade rudder.

A skeg is a structural part of the keel in front of the rudder that protects the rudder. The keel encompasses the rudder, preventing any rogue ropes, weeds, or rocks from damaging the rudder.

A spade rudder is an unprotected rudder: it doesn't have any structural protection from the keel design. It is simply attached to the hull. This design is very common.

Alright, we understand the big picture. Let's dive into more detail for each keel type and discuss the pros and cons.

Fixed keel Good for cruising and liveaboards Comfortable

What is a full keel? A full keel runs from front to aft for at least 50% of the hull and is fully integrated into the hull. It has the largest wetted surface of any keel type, and it is also the heaviest. This results in directional stability and reduced heeling, providing the most comfortable ride, but also the slowest.

The wetted surface simply means the amount of water contact area. With such a large wetted surface, it decreases slippage to leeward the most of all keel types, while it counters heeling the most as well.

The full keel is the most comfortable and stable keel type available. However, comfort comes at a price. It delivers the worst performance due to this large wetted area. It is the slowest of the keel types, and it has the worst windward performance.

This makes full keels particularly great for longtime cruisers or liveaboards who prefer comfort over speed, but less ideal for daysailers who need to navigate in and out of slips regularly.

Since it runs for at least 50% of the hull, it doesn't need to run as deep as a fin keel, resulting in a more shoal draft.

Heavier keels result in increased displacement, so a full keel boat will need a larger sail area to compensate for its weight.

For a more detailed discussion on full keel advantages, I recommend reading William's excellent article 5 Surprising Advantages of a Full Keel Sailboat here.

Example sailboats with a full keel:

Nicholson 22
Island Packet 380
Beneteau Oceanis 411 Clipper
Beneteau First 50
Jeanneau Sun Shine 38
Dufour 455 Grand Large

There are a lot of great cruising boats with full keel designs , some of them considered classics.

Full Keel with skeg rudder

Full keels with a skeg rudder design have a protected rudder, thanks to putting a structural part of the keel directly in front of the rudder. This helps with fending off any hazards to the rudder, like floating pieces of rope, rocks, or garbage, and protects it in case of running aground. The skeg design ensures the rudder is nearly impossible to break off.

Fixed keel Good for cruising and liveaboards Faster than a regular full keel

What is a modified full keel? A modified full keel is a full keel with a cutout at the front, reducing the wetted surface slightly, which increases performance without sacrificing too much comfort and stability. After the full keel, it has the best directional stability and the least amount of heel.

The modified full keel is popular among (bluewater) cruisers, thanks to its increased handling and performance. Most modified full keels have a skeg rudder, ensuring it is well-protected.

The slightly reduced weight and wetted surface improve windward performance quite a lot, but it is still one of the most stable keel designs out there.

Example sailboats with a modified full keel:

Hallberg-Rassy HR 40
Dufour Arpege 30
Beneteau Oceanis Clipper 281
Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 37.2

Fixed keel Good for racing Fast

What is a fin keel? A fin keel is a long, weighted blade attached to the bottom of the hull. It is lighter, faster, and more maneuverable than a full keel, but also more vulnerable. The increased distance between ballast and sails provides a lever, reducing the need for a large wetted surface or additional ballast.

Fin keels are generally bolted onto the hull and run deeper and thinner than a full keel. They are also lighter. This helps increasing performance (a lot), making fin keels a lot faster in all situations.

There are some major disadvantages to fin keels, however. Fin keels are a lot less comfortable than full keels and allow for more heel and a less solid track, so less directional stability. Fin keels are also a lot more vulnerable than full keels. They can break off when running aground, or get damaged.

They are very popular among racers and perform better when maneuvering in tight spots, like getting in and out of slips.

Example sailboats with a fin keel:

Catalina 30
Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 36.2

Fin keel with skeg rudder

Fin keels with a skeg rudder use a small structural part in front of the rudder to protect it. This design is mostly integrated into the hull, making it less vulnerable, and a great compromise between speed and safety.

Fin keel with spade rudder

Fin keels with a spade rudder have a completely exposed rudder, and typically a fin that is simply bolted on. The keel isn't integrated into the hull, making it more vulnerable and less comfortable.

Fin keel variant Good for cruising Less crossflow

What is a wing keel? A wing keel is a fin keel with a horizontal foil at the tip, which is wing-shaped and generally weighted. Its shape reduces crossflow, improving directional stability, and its ballast decreases heel, resulting in a more comfortable ride. The addition of a wingtip allows for a shorter fin, reducing draft.

Wing keels are good for cruising since this design improves directional stability compared to a regular fin keel or a bulb keel.

We'll discuss the wing keel's advantages and disadvantages in more detail in this article.

Fin keel variant Good for cruising Stability

What is a bulb keel? A bulb keel is a high-aspect-ratio fin keel with additional ballast at the end, which generally has a bulb or teardrop shape. This ballast improves stability and utilizes the distance between force and counterforce as a lever. This design reduces the need for a deep fin, resulting in a shoal draft.

By placing the weight at the largest possible distance from the force on the sails, you need relatively little extra weight for the same reduction in heel, making bulb keels very effective for cruising.

This design reduces the wetted area while increasing the weight of the keel just slightly, which increases sailing comfort big time.

Example sailboats with a bulb keel:

Bavaria B/One
Beneteau First 24

Fixed keel Good for racing Can be beached

What is a bilge keel? A bilge keel is a twin keel which uses double fins, allowing the boat to be beached and rest on its keel upright. Bilge keels have double the wetted surface, which increases comfort and directional stability while decreasing heel. Modern bilge keels often provide decent windward performance, thanks to better design.

The bilge keel does sacrifice speed compared to the fin keel but doesn't necessarily offer worse performance overall. Older designs performed considerably worse than other keels and were especially slow.

Bilge keels have some major advantages over full keels and fin keels. The most important is that the boat can be beached, making it a popular design in tidal waters. Bilge keels are especially common along the British coastline, where fishermen keep their boats in tidal harbors.

Another major advantage is that the boat can be stored resting on its keels, making dry storage and maintenance a lot easier.

Of course, there are many more pros and cons to the bilge keel , which we go into here.

Example sailboats with a bilge keel:

Dufour Dynamique 62
Hunter Duette
Patagonia Patago 39
Macwester 27

Lifting keel Good for daysailers Versatile

What is a centerboard? A centerboard is a type of retractable keel that rests on a hinge and can be lowered through a slot in the hull. It folds out like a pocket knife and allows you to increase or reduce the draft of the boat. Centerboards are mostly used on small fishing boats.

The centerboard is a very versatile keel type, allowing you to have both a very shoal draft for inland waters, as well as steadying the boat and reducing heel for larger bodies of water, or even oceans.

I've sailed a Cornish Crabber with a centerboard for a week, and while we stayed inland, having the option to increase the keel depth really came in handy when crossing the IJsselmeer (a former sea in The Netherlands).

There's more to the center

Olaf Roethele

https://www.theyachtmarket.com/en/new-boats/cornish-crabbers/adventure-17/218/

My name is Olaf and I am the owner of a Cornish Crabber 17 Adventure boat.

I would like to ask you if you can imagine to install on this boat a Torqeedo 2.0 Pod motor? Therefore i guess a modification of the keel/skeg is necessary ?!

Best regards from Uruguay,

You completely missed the hybrid planing/water-ballast keel of the Macgregor range

Thanks a lot for this explanation

Roger Bannon

Very well written article which provides an excellent guide for us small wooden boat builders. Thanks.

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Centerboard Sailboat: The Ultimate Guide for Smooth Sailing

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 18, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

Short answer centerboard sailboat:

A centerboard sailboat is a type of sailing vessel that includes a retractable fin-like appendage called a centerboard. Centerboards provide stability and help prevent lateral drift when sailing upwind. They can be raised in shallow waters or when the boat is not under sail, and lowered for enhanced stability while underway.

Introduction to Centerboard Sailboats: Exploring the Basics and Benefits

Sailing has captivated humans for centuries, offering a unique combination of adventure, skill, and mastery of nature. If you’re considering delving into the world of sailing or if you’re simply curious about different types of sailboats, centerboard sailboats are worth exploring. In this blog post, we will provide a detailed introduction to centerboard sailboats by discussing the basics and exploring their numerous benefits.

First things first – what exactly is a centerboard sailboat? In essence, a centerboard is a retractable keel that enables sailors to adjust their boat’s stability and performance based on various sailing conditions. Unlike regular keels which are fixed in place, centerboards can be raised or lowered at will, allowing sailors to navigate shallow waters with ease. By altering the draft (the depth that extends below the waterline), sailors can optimize their speed and maneuverability depending on factors such as wind direction or water depth.

One notable advantage of centerboard sailboats is their versatility. Whether you enjoy leisurely coastal cruising or long-distance ocean passages, these boats offer adaptability rarely found in other types of vessels. When cruising in deep waters where extra stability and speed are desired, the centerboard can be lowered fully for optimal performance. On the other hand, when navigating shallow waters such as remote anchorages or coastal areas with hidden obstacles, raising the centerboard ensures peace of mind by preventing damage to the keel.

Moreover, these boats excel in sailing upwind due to their ability to reduce leeway – sideway drift caused by wind pushing against the hull. By lowering the centerboard partially or completely while tacking into the wind, sailors can minimize leeway and maintain a more efficient course towards their destination.

Centerboard sailboats also boast superior maneuverability compared to fixed-keel vessels. In tight spots such as crowded marinas or narrow channels, raising the centerboard allows for a reduced turning radius and smoother navigation. This added maneuverability opens up opportunities to explore hidden coves and picturesque spots that might otherwise be inaccessible with a larger fixed-keel boat.

Aside from their practical advantages, centerboard sailboats also offer a unique sailing experience. Adjusting the draft by raising or lowering the centerboard demands a certain finesse and understanding of how wind and water interact with the boat. This constant interaction between sailor and vessel creates an engaging dynamic that keeps even seasoned sailors on their toes, making each sailing trip an exciting adventure filled with challenges and rewards.

In conclusion, exploring the world of sailing would be incomplete without considering the wonders of centerboard sailboats. Their retractable keel provides versatility, adaptability, and enhanced performance – attributes that make them ideal choices for both novice sailors embarking on coastal journeys and experienced sailors seeking new challenges. The ability to navigate shallow waters effortlessly, optimize upwind sailing performance, enhance maneuverability in tight spots, and experience the thrill of managing draft adjustments all contribute to the undeniable appeal of these remarkable vessels.

So whether you’re yearning for tranquil coastal explorations or dreaming of conquering challenging ocean passages, investing in a centerboard sailboat is undoubtedly a choice that will enrich your sailing endeavors while broadening your horizons in ways you never thought possible!

How Does a Centerboard Sailboat Work? A Step-by-Step Guide

Title: Unraveling the Mechanics of a Centerboard Sailboat: A Comprehensive Step-by-Step Guide

Introduction: Sailing is synonymous with freedom and adventure, and knowing how different sailing boats work can enhance our appreciation for this timeless activity. In this guide, we delve into the intriguing mechanics of centerboard sailboats. So, buckle up your life jackets and prepare to set sail on a journey through the inner workings of these marvelous vessels.

Step 1: Understanding the Basics The fundamental principle behind a centerboard sailboat is its ability to utilize a retractable keel-like structure called the centerboard. Unlike fixed keels present in traditional sailboats, centerboards are adjustable in depth, making them versatile for various water conditions. The centerboard serves two primary purposes: providing lateral resistance against wind pushing against sails and counteracting leeway or sideways drift caused by crosswinds.

Step 2: Analyzing Components To grasp how a centerboard sailboat operates, it’s crucial to familiarize ourselves with its vital components. These include the hull (or body), mast, boom (horizontal spar at the bottom of the mainsail), rudder, sails, and of course, the star player – the adjustable centerboard.

Step 3: Preparation Stage Before embarking on any sailing expedition with a centerboard boat, preparations must be made. This involves selecting appropriate sails based on wind conditions and attaching them securely to masts and booms. Additionally, checking all rigging elements such as ropes, shrouds, halyards ensures optimal functionality during navigation.

Step 4: Setting Sail As you hoist those vibrant sails aloft while feeling the exhilarating breeze fill them up; it’s essential to visualize how forces interact and propel your vessel forward. When wind encounters sails at an angle known as “close-hauled,” it creates lift akin to an airplane wing that propels the boat forward. Simultaneously, the sailboat’s hull exerts an opposing force called drag against the water.

Step 5: Balancing Forces with the Centerboard To prevent your centerboard sailboat from drifting sideways due to crosswinds, adjusting the centerboard depth is crucial. By partially extending or retracting it into a trunk located in the center of the boat’s hull, lateral resistance against leeway is maximized. Shallower depths allow for reduced drag while sailing upwind, enabling higher speeds. Conversely, deeper settings enhance stability when running downwind or across waves.

Step 6: Steering and Maneuvering While sails generate forward propulsion, steering and maneuvering your vessel require a well-functioning rudder system. The rudder acts as a vertical fin positioned at the stern (rear) of your boat and allows you to control its direction by changing its angle relative to water flow. Together with the centerboard’s settings and sail trim adjustments, efficient steering ensures optimal performance throughout diverse wind and water conditions.

Conclusion: The art of sailing becomes a truly immersive experience once we comprehend how various components work together within a centerboard sailboat’s mechanism. From harnessing wind power through maneuverable sails to balancing forces using an adjustable centerboard and executing intricate maneuvers with precision steering—each step seamlessly connects us with nature’s elements on our exciting seafaring adventures. So grab hold of that wheel, align your sails just right, and let your newfound understanding unleash endless possibilities on the open waters!

Choosing the Right Type of Centerboard Sailboat for Your Needs

Sailing has always been a captivating and exhilarating sport, offering a unique blend of adventure and tranquility. Whether you are an experienced sailor or just starting out, one crucial decision you need to make is choosing the right type of sailboat for your needs. One popular choice among sailors is a centerboard sailboat, which offers maneuverability, versatility, and efficiency on the water. In this blog post, we will delve into the details of how to pick the perfect centerboard sailboat that aligns with your requirements.

First and foremost, understanding the concept of a centerboard sailboat is crucial. Unlike fixed keel boats, centerboards provide greater flexibility by allowing the keel-like plate (the centerboard) to be raised or lowered as needed. This adjustability proves beneficial in shallow waters where navigation might otherwise be restricted. Therefore, if you frequently sail in areas with fluctuating water depths or explore coastal regions with shifting tides, a centerboard sailboat should be at the top of your list.

Size matters when it comes to selecting the ideal centerboard sailboat as well. The size of your boat directly affects its performance and handling capabilities on the water. Larger vessels tend to offer better stability and space for storage but require more crew members to handle them efficiently. On the other hand, smaller boats are easier to handle solo but may lack spacious accommodations for longer journeys or larger groups.

Next up is hull construction material: fiberglass or wood? Fiberglass boats are widely preferred due to their durability, lower maintenance requirements, higher resistance to osmosis (blistering), and ease of cleaning. Additionally, fiberglass hulls offer excellent balance between strength and weight while promoting smooth sailing through enhanced aerodynamics. However, traditionalists still appreciate wooden hulls for their classic beauty and unique aesthetic charm – if nostalgia strikes you firmly in this regard, investing in a well-maintained wooden centerboard sailboat might be just the fit for you.

One crucial factor that often goes unnoticed is the efficiency and convenience of the rigging system. The rigging on a sailboat needs to be user-friendly and easily manageable, ensuring hassle-free sailing experiences. This includes evaluating features like single-handed reefing mechanisms, winch accessibility, and overall ergonomics. Remember, a smooth sailing experience largely depends on how effectively you can manipulate your boat’s sails while simultaneously maneuvering through changing wind conditions.

Lastly, always consider your budget when choosing the right centerboard sailboat. It’s essential to strike a balance between your desires and financial limitations. While a brand-new state-of-the-art sailboat might seem alluring, there are also excellent used options available at more economical prices. Don’t overlook the possibility of finding a gem within your budget that fulfills all your requirements – there’s always something out there waiting to be discovered!

In conclusion, selecting the right type of centerboard sailboat demands careful consideration of various factors such as its adjustability in shallow waters, size, hull construction material preferences (fiberglass or wood), rigging system efficiency, and personal budget constraints. By taking these aspects into account and prioritizing your sailing needs accordingly, you’ll undoubtedly find yourself captaining an exceptional vessel that perfectly suits your adventurous spirit on the open seas!

Common FAQs about Centerboard Sailboats Answered!

If you’re new to the world of sailing or considering investing in a centerboard sailboat, you may have some questions. In this blog post, we aim to answer the most common FAQs about centerboard sailboats, providing you with informative and witty explanations. So let’s dive right in!

1. What is a centerboard sailboat? A centerboard sailboat is a type of sailboat that features a retractable keel called a centerboard. Unlike fixed keel boats, which have a stationary keel, centerboards can be raised or lowered depending on the depth of the water. This allows sailors to navigate in shallow waters without running aground.

2. What are the advantages of using a centerboard sailboat? One major advantage is versatility – thanks to their retractable keels, centerboard sailboats can explore shallow areas that are inaccessible to fixed keel boats. This opens up an entire world of exploration possibilities, from hidden coves and creeks to tranquil estuaries. Additionally, the ability to raise the centerboard allows for easier trailering and storing.

3. Do centerboards affect sailing performance? The design of a centerboard sailboat ensures optimal performance both upwind and downwind. When deployed, the downward force provided by the lowered centerboard counteracts sideways drift when sailing close-hauled (close to the wind). This improves stability and prevents excessive leeway. On downwind runs or reaching courses (when at an angle across or away from the wind), raising the centerboard reduces drag and frees up speed.

4. Are there different types of centerboards? Yes! While most traditional designs feature wooden or fiberglass boards that slide vertically into a trunk inside the boat’s hull, other modern designs incorporate daggerboards instead. Daggerboards can pivot horizontally as well as vertically, enabling greater control over lift and improved maneuverability.

5. How do I raise and lower the centerboard? Raising and lowering the centerboard is typically done manually using a winch or a dedicated handle located near the cockpit. Centerboards are usually connected to ropes or cables that run through sheaves, allowing for smooth up and down movement.

6. Are centerboard sailboats suitable for beginners? Absolutely! Centerboard sailboats are often favored by beginner sailors due to their maneuverability and forgiving nature. The ability to explore shallow waters without fear of running aground reduces anxiety while learning. Additionally, their versatility makes them great for more experienced sailors looking for new sailing challenges.

7. Can you beach a centerboard sailboat? Yes! One of the great features of centerboard sailboats is their ability to beached on sandy or muddy shores when the keel is fully retracted. This allows you to easily step off onto dry land during low tides or for leisurely picnics.

8. Are there any downsides to using a centerboard sailboat? One potential downside is slightly reduced pointing ability (the boat’s ability to head into the wind) compared to fixed keel boats, especially in strong winds or rough conditions. However, this can be mitigated by optimizing the design, properly balancing sails, and honing your sailing skills.

In conclusion, centerboard sailboats offer unparalleled versatility and exciting opportunities for both beginners and experienced sailors alike. Their retractable keels allow access to shallow waters while still providing excellent performance on various points of sail. So whether you’re seeking adventure in unexplored bays or looking for an accessible way into the world of sailing, consider going with a centerboard sailboat – it’s truly an all-in-one package!

Mastering the Art of Sailing a Centerboard Boat: Tips and Tricks

Introduction:

Sailing a centerboard boat can be an exhilarating and rewarding experience for any sailor. However, mastering the art of sailing these unique vessels requires a combination of skill, knowledge, and practice. In this blog post, we will delve into some tips and tricks that will help you become a master in sailing a centerboard boat.

Understanding the basic principles:

Before venturing out onto the water, it is essential to understand the basic principles behind sailing a centerboard boat. These vessels rely on their retractable or adjustable keel-like appendage called a centerboard to provide stability and maneuverability. The position of the centerboard affects the boat’s balance, directionality, and speed. By comprehending how these elements interplay with wind forces, you can significantly enhance your sailing abilities.

1. Perfecting your sail trim:

One crucial aspect of sailing any boat is achieving optimal sail trim – finding just the right relationship between sail shape and wind conditions. When it comes to centerboard boats, nailing sail trim becomes even more critical due to their heightened sensitivity to subtle adjustments.

To achieve ideal sail trim on a centerboard boat:

– Pay close attention to your mainsail luff tension: Adjusting it appropriately allows you to control power delivery. – Fine-tune your jib/genoa sheets: Experiment with different sheet tensions to optimize your pointing ability and overall performance. – Master the art of shaping your sails using cunningham controls (for mainsails) or halyard tension (for headsails). – Constantly adjust for changing wind conditions: Small tweaks in sail trim can make significant differences in optimizing speed and handling capabilities.

2. Balancing act – controlling heel angle:

Maintaining proper heel angle plays a vital role in maximizing both speed and safety while sailing a centerboard boat. Without sufficient heel, these boats may not exhibit their full potential due to increased drag caused by excessive wetted surface area.

On the other hand, excessive heel can lead to instability and even capsize. Here are some tips for achieving the ideal heel angle:

– Adjust crew weight: Position your crew appropriately – leaning in or out depending on wind conditions and boat responsiveness. – Proper sail depowering techniques: Master techniques such as vang tension adjustment, backstay control, and traveler positioning to manage power and prevent excessive heeling. – Be mindful of weight distribution: Distribute weight throughout the boat evenly during upwind sailing, shifting it aft during downwind runs to maintain a balanced heel angle. – Learn from experience: Monitor the boat’s behavior closely during different sailing conditions and make adjustments accordingly.

3. Taming the centerboard:

As an integral part of the boat’s stability system, taming the centerboard is crucial in mastering its art of sailing. Understanding how to effectively use your centerboard will significantly enhance your performance:

– Adjusting board position: Experiment with raising or lowering your centerboard to optimize both pointing ability and speed. Lowering it too much can create unnecessary drag while raising it excessively may compromise stability. – Anticipating tacks and gybes: Raise your centerboard just before executing these maneuvers to prevent unwanted lateral resistance that hampers smooth transitions. – Perfecting balance: The position of the centerboard affects lateral forces acting on the boat. Adjust it according to wind strength and direction to maintain optimal balance.

Conclusion:

Mastering the art of sailing a centerboard boat requires a combination of technical knowledge, intuition, and practice. By perfecting sail trim, managing heel angles proficiently, and effectively utilizing your centerboard, you can unlock these vessels’ full potential.

Remember that becoming adept at sailing any type of sailboat takes time and patience. With commitment to improving your skills through careful observation, experimentation, and continuous learning from experienced sailors – whether through formal instruction or peer-to-peer coaching – you’ll be well on your way to becoming a proficient centerboard boat sailor. So, go out there, stay curious, and enjoy the thrill of sailing!

Maintaining Your Centerboard Sailboat: Essential Care and Maintenance Guidelines

If you are a proud owner of a centerboard sailboat, you know the joy that comes with gliding through the water propelled only by the wind. However, to ensure that your sailing adventures continue to be smooth and worry-free, it’s important to give proper care and maintenance to your vessel.

Here, we will provide you with comprehensive guidelines on how to maintain your centerboard sailboat, ensuring its longevity and optimum performance while also showcasing our wit and cleverness along the way!

1. Understand Your Centerboard: To embark on a successful maintenance journey, it’s crucial to familiarize yourself with your centerboard. Different sailboats have different centerboard designs, so take some time to study yours closely. This knowledge will help you grasp essential maintenance procedures better.

2. Regular Inspection is Key: Just like overall boat maintenance, inspecting your centerboard should become a habit. Check for any signs of wear or damage such as cracks, peeling paint or corrosion. A witty word of advice: Give your centerboard some TLC regularly; it’ll appreciate it just like a good sailor appreciates their favorite sea shanty!

3. Cleanliness Matters: Keep your centerboard clean from dirt and debris by using mild soap and water or an appropriate cleaning agent that won’t harm its surface. A clever tip here: Use a toothbrush dipped in soapy water for intricate areas that might require extra attention – just don’t confuse it with your onboard dental hygiene kit!

4. Lubricate Wisely: Proper lubrication ensures smooth operation of your centerboard mechanism. Apply marine-grade lubricant to all moving parts such as hinges or pivots but avoid excessive use as it can attract dirt instead – nobody likes dirty jokes! Remember: A well-lubricated boat sails smoothly; just like sailors glide effortlessly across calm waters.

5. Protect from the Elements: Your centerboard is exposed to various weather conditions, and it’s essential to provide proper protection. Apply a high-quality marine paint or coating to prevent corrosion and deterioration. And remember, while protecting your centerboard, don’t forget your own sunblock – no one wants a witty sailor with sunburn!

6. Check Your Centerboard Trunk: Inspect the area where your centerboard is housed, known as the trunk. Ensure there are no leaks or excessive water accumulation inside that could cause damage or affect its performance. A clever approach: Treat your boat’s trunk like you would treat your own – keep it dry and stable!

7. Seek Professional Assistance: When in doubt about any repair or maintenance procedure for your centerboard sailboat, consult professionals who can offer expert advice and assistance. Just like any good crew member relies on their captain’s expertise during challenging times, entrust your vessel to skilled hands.

8. Follow Manufacturer Recommendations: Lastly, always refer to the sailboat manufacturer’s guidelines for specific care instructions tailored to your vessel model. The witty twist here: Ignoring these recommendations is like setting sail without checking the wind direction – you may end up tacking against stormy seas!

In conclusion, maintaining a centerboard sailboat is vital for optimal performance and long-lasting enjoyment of sailing adventures. By understanding how it works and following these guidelines whilst sprinkling in some wit and cleverness along the way (because what sailor doesn’t appreciate humor?), you’ll ensure smooth sailing experiences year after year!

We Never Underestimate Your Dreams

Helm balance – center of effort, lateral resistance, centerboard, mast rake.

Often when reading about sailboats, one encounters criticism with respect the excessive weather helm as a negative characteristic of a vessel’s sailing performance. With a little research, weather helm is revealed as a tendency of the sailboat to turn windward necessitating a constant and opposite application of pressure on the tiller or wheel. Then opens a whole science related to helm balance. Properly designed cruising sailboats exhibit a slight weather helm. The alternatives are as bad as excessive weather helm. Neutral helms do not provide feedback to the captain while lee helm vessels can accidentally jibe, a dangerous maneuver, or get knocked down by nasty and unexpected puff. Let’s take a look at the ways to balance the helm which include mast location, bow sprites, reefing, mast rake, centerboards, weight distribution, and heeling.

Background Before starting this discussion, we need to understand more deeply the cause behind an unbalanced helm in terms of a vessel’s center of effort and center of lateral resistance. The center of effort (CE) is in simple terms the geometric center of the sail plan while the center of lateral resistance (CLR) is the geometric center of the underbody. Weight, volume, and forces play roles too, and these two locations are constantly changing. A good way to estimate the locations is to loft paper cut-outs of the sailplan and underbody below the waterline and then balance these separately on pins. The balancing points are the estimated center points. Imagine the CLR as the pivot point for the vessel and the CE as the driving force location acting on the sail plan. If the CE leads the CLR, a sailboat has lee helm; if the CLR leads the CE, she has weather helm.

To make it more confusing, yacht designers normally talk about CE in terms of leading CLR, i.e. lead percentage, which would result in lee helm. Off the design board all vessels appear to have lee helm instead of the slight weather helm which is optimal. How do we rectify practice and theory? Well, it turns out that while underway, the CLR moves forward a considerable amount relative to the CE. Therefore, the lee helm designed vessel ends up in practice with weather helm.

Ways to Balance the Helm Below are sections that describe common producers to balance the helm. Some relate to difficult and permanent modifications while others are temporary changes done while underway. The first listings of mast location, bowsprits, reefing, and mast rake change the CE while centerboards, weight distribution, and heeling longitudinally move the CLR.

Mast Location : Traditionally the primary cause of excessive weather helm was too far aft mast locations. In the CCA and IOR days large J-dimensions were the rage. The large foretriangle pushed the mast location, sail area, and therefore CE far aft of the CLR. The wind would catch the tail end of the vessel and pivot her about the CLR into the wind. For example, the Valiant 40 has too much weather helm. On the V40 pilothouse versions, Perry moved the mast forward to balance the helm.
Bowsprits : Similarly a bowsprit is added to many designs that have too much weather helm. Then the headstay is secured to the bowsprit which enlarges the headsail area moving the CE forward. To further balance the helm on the V40, Perry designed the V42 which has the same underbody with a two foot bowsprit. Another example is the Corbin 39. Some recent yachts have extendable bowsprits that tie into the bow chock such as the Jeanneau SO 39i. This provides a way to balance the helm with out installing a permanent sprite. It is handy for a beam reach with a gennaker offsetting weather helm as needed and providing clear air.
Reefing : Reefing the main or furling the jib as well as the opposite of putting up storm jibs, etcetera are versatile ways to move any which way the CE. This ability is the reason why ketch and schooner rigs came into vogue and why double headsail sloops are the primary offshore cruising vessel of the day. For instance by furling the main, the CE adjusts forward; by furling the jib, the CE moves aft. The trend towards simpler rigs dependent on large furling mains has meant that the common way to handle weather helm due to high winds is by reefing the main appropriately.
Mast Rake : The highest in modern performance such as the deep bulb keeled Farr 40’s excessively rake their masts to maximize directionality and speed. Any kind of helm imbalance causes the captain to compensate by angling the rudder. This angling is like a break slowing the down the vessel. When sailing upwind, Farr 40’s rake their mast aft which moves the CE aft. They seek to minimize any tendency to fall off, i.e. lee helm. They can point extremely high up to 25 degrees and make more direct progress. Offwind the crew can rake the mast forward to move the CE forward and minimize weather helm. By raking the mast, racers effectively balance the helm without changing sails.
Centerboards : Why does a centerboard allow a yacht to point higher? One reason is that by lowering a centerboard you move the CLR forward and reduce lee helm, i.e. the tendency of the vessel to fall off. Imagine the board swinging down and forward. The forward action shifts the longitudinal area (and weight) of the hull forward. Clearly the balancing point, CLR, must be further forward to compensate for the shift in area and weight forward. This change minimizes lee helm and leads to higher pointing.
Weight Distribution : The Tayana 37 design is notorious for wicked weather helm. Part of the issue is a water tank secured in the bow. This foreward distribution of weight moves the CLR forward, far forward of the CE. Owners remove this tank to restore rig balance. Similarly you can move around cruising weight or on a smaller vessel crew to adjust the helm balance. Weight moved foreward increases weather helm while too much weight aft leads to a sailboat squatting and having lee helm.
Heeling : Heeling changes the underwater hull shape and the CLR. Heeling leeward causes the CLR to move aft, and the vessel to turn into the wind. Reducing heeling reduces weather helm. On smaller vessels like Lasers crew can hike out to balance the helm.

Conclusion I covered the ways to balance your helm whether via moving the CE due to mast location, adding a bowsprit, reefing, or raking the mast; or moving the CLR by lowering a centerboard, moving weight longitudinally, or increasing/decreasing heel. A sailboat’s center of effort and center of lateral resistance are two characteristics that affect helm balance. Yacht design has many other calculations such as the center of buoyancy, center of flotation, fineness coefficient, prismatic coefficient, comfort ratio, and capsize screening formula. All these combine to determine the sailing performance of a yacht. Please feel free to comment below on your experiences and advice with respect to helm balance.

9 Replies to “Helm Balance – Center of Effort, Lateral Resistance, Centerboard, Mast Rake”

Gday mate. Not sure if youre still active on this post but just wondering if there is an ideal % of Lead to LWL? I am doing a design exercise on my yacht which has Lee helm and wont tack (experimental build) and just wondering if there is an ideal % that you know of? Can e-mail me at [email protected] . Cheers mate.

Craig: Sounds like a cool project. Please try the below article by Ted Brewer in Good Old Boat which gives more guidance about lead percentage. Regards, Richard

http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_services/articles/Helm_balance.php * A rough estimate of the percent of lead necessary can be obtained by starting with a figure of 14-15 percent and adding 1 percent for each characteristic of the boat that falls into the Lengthening column and subtracting 1 percent for each characteristic in the Shortening column in the table above. This is not a very scientific rule to live by, but the whole issue of helm balance and proper lead really comes down to intelligent guesswork based on previous experience. There is no sure way to pin it down any closer than that.*

Jordan Yacht and Ship Company Royale Palm Yacht Basin 629 Northeast Third Street, Dania Beach, Florida 33004 Tel: 954.522.8650 • Fax: 954.736.1648 Cell: +1.954.296.2687 • Email: [email protected]

Please visit our website: http://www.jordanyachts.com

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Sailboat Reviews

New J/95 Centerboard Sailboat is Fit for Shallow Water

J/boats new shoalsailer redraws the playing field for fast daysailers..

Given the grief that poor centerboard designs from the 1970s have caused sailers over the years, we were surprised to learn that J/Boats-known for its measured approach to the boat business (don’t let that radical backslash fool you)-put a centerboard in its new J/95.

Yes, swing-keel centerboards, those bronze, steel, or fiberglass foils that hinge from the keel like the blade on a Swiss army knife, are making a comeback. This is great news for shoalwater sailers who, for lack of other options, have tolerated decades-old centerboarders and the many ailments that plague them-corroded lifting cables, pulverized turning sheaves, and a thunk, thunk, thunk in the centerboard trunk. Fortunately for them, advances in materials and design have yielded a whole new breed of centerboarder. The J/95, it is safe to say, is not your fathers Irwin 38.

The last time centerboards were all the rage, through the 1950s and into the 1960s, it was because Northeast sailors didnt want to leave their good crystal at home when they raced off to Bermuda. In the Cruising Club of Americas (CCA) quest for a rating rule that favored velvet and walnut interiors, centerboarders gained a significant edge, and few boats took advantage of rule loopholes as well as the legendary Sparkman & Stephens-designed Finisterre. The boat achieved myth-like status in 1960, when owner and skipper Carleton Mitchell won the Newport to Bermuda race for an unprecedented third consecutive time.

When Mitchell died in 2007 at the age of 96, he was rightly hailed as a sailing legend. A one-time underwear salesman who married into a fortune, he served as a Navy combat photographer in World War II before pursuing in earnest a lifelong passion for sailing. In the decades after the war, he earned renown not only for his seamanship but also for his talent as a magazine writer, author, and photographer. The museum at Mystic Seaport in Connecticut holds his large collection of manuscripts and more than 20,000 of his photographs.

Today, Mitchell and Finisterre stand as icons from a golden era, doomed to an eternal afterlife in new boat marketing literature. But when J/Boats alluded to Carleton Mitchell and Finisterre in brochures for the J/95, we wanted a bottle of whatever theyre putting in the company watercooler. Except for a hinged keel and an inclination to float, the two boats are as alike as Neil Simons Felix and Oscar.

Introduced last year, the balsa-core J/95 is a lightweight, 30-foot daysailer with a plumb bow, twin-rudders, a sleek hull form, and a Spartan interior. Launched in 1954, 38-foot Finisterre is a double-planked heavy displacement racer-cruiser with a spoon bow, yawl rig, and almost swanky accommodations (the last three are all convenient CCA rule-beaters).

The reference to Finisterre is smart promotional shtick. The name offers J/Boats-and it is hardly the only company that has drafted on Finisterres fame-an instant connection to the sailors it seeks to entice with the J/95.

Like Morris, Sabre, Friendship, and the other makers of high-end trophy daysailers we reviewed in the January 2009 issue, the J/95 is aimed at recession-proof sailors who share Mitchells aesthetic tastes and passion for sailing. But unlike previous entries in this market, the J/95 sails in four feet of water and offers, in many ways, a saner approach to what dealers are calling “right-sizing.” (No salesman worth his salt would utter the more accurate word, “downsizing,” to a potential buyer of these boats.)

End of an era

The J/95 is the brainchild of Rod Johnstone, a man whose fairy-tale success is well known to longtime PS readers. Back in 1976, Johnstone built a fast little boat called Ragtime in his garage in Connecticut. It promptly trounced the local racers, who started asking Johnstone for their own.

At the time, Johnstone was an ad salesman for Soundings magazine and turned to his client Everett Pearson of TPI Inc. to produce the boat as the J/24. (The J is for Johnstone, the slash, were convinced, is meant to torment copy editors.) J/24s started rolling off the production line at TPI in February 1977. Bob Johnstone, the family marketing ace, left AMF Alcort (makers of the Sunfish) to join Rod as a partner, and crank up the boat sales to unprecedented numbers. Still in production, the J/24 remains one of the most popular sailboats in the world.

The mission for the J/95 is one of those hyphen-rich, have-your-cake-and-eat-it-too quests. Rod Johnstone wanted a wind-in-your-hair, but easy-to-sail weekender that catered to the huge population of sailors who must contend with depths of four feet our less. Being competitive in club or Performance Handicap Racing Fleet (PHRF), and, of course, a fantastically popular one-design class were also part of the dream.

“We wanted to make this a boat people would want sail, sail right up the river or creek, right up to their dock, sail in light winds, sail in 20 knots,” says Johnstone. “In my view, if you want to turn on the engine, this boat is a failure.”

When held up against the current crop of J/Boats, the J/95 is probably closest to the J/105, a popular one-design class boat launched in 1992. Both boats have similar deck layouts, and both feature a low cabintop and gentle sheer that give them good-looking profiles.

Although the J/105s deeper fin keel gives it a performance edge, Johnstone says that in brisk conditions, the J/95, with 2,250 pounds of lead ballast, can stay with the J/105 in a heavy-weather beat. Johnstones explanation for this sheds some light on why many CCA-rule boats remain popular as cruisers.

While the long bulb keel that is the norm in todays racing boats offers superior lift, it can create a pendulum-like pitch and roll and in a seaway. The J/95, with the center of ballast closer to the flotation plane, resists this tendency, making for a more efficient-and more comfortable-ride.

Of course, any of the J/95s gains during a rough beat are soon relinquished to the J/105s longer waterline on a downwind leg, but the point is made.

Compared to contemporary production shoal-draft boats, the J/95 has a key design advantage: twin rudders angled outward at 15 degrees. This means at least one rudder is always immersed, giving the boat predictable tracking, even when heeled. As pointed out in our February 2009 report on hull design, trying to steer the beamy Open Class-inspired hulls with a single shallow rudder can be maddening. In the most extreme cases, a modest puff of 16 knots sends the boat rounding up sharply to windward.

The price for the J/95s shallower draft is ultimate stability. According to J/Boats, the boat has a limit of positive stability of 126, well within the minimum of 120 recommended for offshore racing and fine for daysailing. The 200-pound centerboard doesn’t lock down, but should the board kick up in a grounding or crash downward a 160-degree capsize, it will connect with the soft lead keel and cause no harm to the hull. J/Boats said such an event would not damage the hull. (With our insurance premiums being what the are, we did not test this feature.)

Deck Layout

J/Boats has had plenty of practice pondering deck layouts on race boats, and those same details translate well to any good daysailer. As Johnstone points out, the features that bring efficiency on the race course-broad sidedecks, ergonomic cockpit layout, plenty of mechanical advantage-are equally kind to a titanium knees and hips.

“It just makes me sad to see people I know-friends, no less!-going out and getting power boats because they feel that they can’t sail anymore,” Johnstone grumbles. “And then they realize, too late sometimes, that they have to put up with all that noise.”

New J/95 Centerboard Sailboat is Fit for Shallow Water

During the design phase, there was some discussion over tiller versus wheel. J/purists might clamor for a tiller, especially those bent on racing, but at what price? Cockpit space would suffer. Comfort and convenience, too.

The 44-inch Edson wheel fits nicely into the wide T-shaped aft section. Two angled chocks provide footing on a heel, and we found the windward rail to be a comfortable spot on a close reach. The transom is open, and the boat we sailed had an optional removable transom-seat locker. Even with the seat-locker in place, theres room behind the wheel.

The cockpit seats arent long enough for snoozing, and an extra inch of back support would be nice, but all in all, the cockpit caters well to crew comfort under way. The seats inside edges are angled upward slightly to anchor the tush, and the seat lockers offer ample space for sail and gear storage. The broad flat coaming is as comfortable a perch as the cockpit seats themselves. Owners can opt for either a full length toerail or one that ends forward of the cockpit. Teak is an option, but one of the appeals of the boat is its ease of maintenance.

The Harken sail controls are geared for minimal effort. The mainsheet (5:1-ratio with a 10:1-ratio fine-tuning adjustment), rides in front of the steering binnacle on an easily-trimmed traveler (4:1-ratio). A Hall Spars Quick Vang (5:1 ratio) handles boom tension.

The jibsheets lead to two 40.2STA two-speed self-tailing winches. The helmsman can easily trim the mainsheet from the windward rail, while the jib sheet winches are placed so that the trimmer can comfortably face forward. Casually seated on the coaming just in front of the wheel, the single-hander can tweak both the main and jib sheets.

The standard working jib is a roller-furling 105 that tacks easily through the foretriangle and leads to a jib track inside the shrouds. We kept the leads pinned just aft of the shrouds during the test sail and saw no need to change them. For PHRF racing, a second track is installed to handle the 150 genoa. (The boats PHRF rating is about 109.)

A Harken 32.2 two-speed self-tailing winch and a gang of three Spinlock rope clutches on the port side of the companionway tame the halyards and the centerboard. We didnt need the winch (or anti-inflammatories) to raise the centerboard, as the 5:1-ratio block and tackle gave plenty of mechanical advantage.

Passage fore and aft is wide and clear of obstructions, with stainless-steel handrails on the coachroof adding security. Eight-inch stainless steel cleats and a modest anchor locker round out the very functional deck layout.

Interior and Systems

With the J/95s emphasis on nice lines and a functional deck layout, its no surprise that the accommodations get the short shrift. Though its billed as a weekender, we call it a daysailer.

For boat camping, the layout takes care of the bare essentials. Two settee berths in the main cabin offer room to recline, but headroom, even when sitting, is tight. A Raritan head (served by a 14-gallon holding tank) shares space with a V-berth forward. A forward hatch and two ports keep the cabin aired out.

There is no nav station or galley, not even a stove, although hull No. 1 was equipped with AC shorepower and a microwave oven. A 48-quart cooler or a portable 12-volt Waeco fridge ( PS , May 2007) tucks aft of the port settee. An optional Group 27 house battery will keep the fridge running for a long day without charging.

Optional water tankage is in a 20-gallon bladder that feeds a pressure pump in the head and a cockpit shower. Fuel is in a 15-gallon tank beneath the port cockpit locker. PS generally prefers aluminum tanks for this purpose, but for a tank this small, a baffled polyethylene tank is a tolerable substitute.

The two-cylinder 14-horsepower Yanmar with a saildrive and Flex-O-Fold prop sits beneath slide-out companionway steps. Access is good except for servicing the water and primary fuel filters, when you need to make an awkward reach through a bulkhead cutout. J/Boats says it has worked closely with Yanmar to insure that the saildrive is protected from any galvanic corrosion. Regardless, engine zincs bear watching.

Now for the downers: Like some other Open Class imitators (Beneteau First 10R comes to mind), J/Boats hasn’t yet sorted out how to drain the boats shallow bilge without a sponge. The narrowest electric pump doesn’t fit into the tight squeeze in the sump. It sits on a riser pad, which means the last three inches of water make for an inviting frog pond.

To complicate matters, the hose on our test boats manual pump wheezed at a leaky hose union, rendering the pump useless. A leaky union-or any union at all-in an emergency bilge hose is not the sort of thing wed expect from J/Boats. (The local J/Boat dealer assured us this problem would be fixed immediately.)

We also took issue with the bilges drainage system. A single limber hole less than 3/4-inch in diameter separates the back section of the hull from the main bilge sump. Should a cockpit locker open in a knockdown and seawater flood the aft compartment, most of the water wouldnt reach the pumps until it flowed through that thimble-sized limber hole. In our view, the boat should either have freer flowing limber holes or a pump to serve each large compartment.

Finally, J/Boats was asleep at the wheel when they addressed the emergency tiller on our test boat. There was no dedicated place to stow the tiller, and the deck key used to install it was found in the cabin below, instead of with the tiller. Installed, the rudder worked fine, much better than others weve ranted about.

Performance

We test sailed hull No. 10 in the Gulf of Mexico off of Naples, Fla. The boat was equipped with racing cut Doyle Technora sails: a partially battened mainsail and a roller-furling 105 genoa. A 680-square-foot asymmetrical spinnaker can fly from the retractable bowsprit, but with squalls to the east and just two people on board, this spinnaker stayed in the forepeak.

True wind was from the east at 6-8 knots with gusts to about 17 knots when the rain came. Seas were 1-2 feet.

Under power at 2,800 RPM, the boat averaged 6 knots and at 3,250 RPM 7 knots. At wide open throttle in flat water, it held 7.4 knots. Handling under power with the twin rudders was excellent. With the centerboard up or down, the J/95 easily spun in its own length. Not only is this an advantage when docking, but should a crew member fall overboard, a well-drilled crew should be able to execute a near-perfect Quick Stop maneuver (see January 2010 issue).

On a close reach in about 8 knots of breeze, the boat averaged 5.3 knots and tacked through 92 degrees, including any leeway, with the board up. With the board down in about 12-14 knots of breeze, the boat averaged 6.3 knots and gained about 2 degrees to windward on each tack.

J/Boats advertises upwind speeds of 6.5 knots and tacking angles of less than 90 degrees with the board up, and angles better than 85 degrees with the board down. Based on the test boats performance, this is well within reach of a well-sailed, well-tuned boat. The fastest average speed under sail came when a squall brought about 15 knots of wind on the beam. With the true wind at 120 degrees, the boat marched off at 7.2 knots, taking the strongest gusts in stride.

In terms of handling and balance, the J/95 sailed exceptionally well, holding a groove better than many larger boats weve tested. Johnstone attributes the reliable helm control to the twin rudder design. Many good CCA-era boats, Johnston points out, ran into trouble when the wind piped up.

“On some of the old boats, and on many shoal-draft boats today, when the boat heels over, there just isn’t enough rudder in the water for it to do its job,” says Johnstone. “The twin rudders are key to making this design work.”

Board up or board down, the boat handled gusts extremely well, never once heeling excessively or fighting to round up. Close hauled and reaching, the boat balanced superbly, and even with the wind aft of the beam and the sails trimmed for speed, the helm delivered finger-tip control.

Although we could point the boat slightly higher with the 200-pound centerboard lowered, the most noticeable effect of lowering the board was a stiffer ride and a reduced angle of heel.

Given the anemic state of the new sailboat market, J/Boats initially expected to sell one J/95 a month until buyers hopped off the fence. Nine months into production, the company was on hull No. 18, and interest in the boat doesn’t show any sign of waning soon.

Its success can be partly attributed to the J/Boat name and the southward migration of aging Boomers, who are settling into retirement homes on the shallow estuaries of Florida and the Carolinas. No question, if you are a shallow-water sailor looking for a high-performance daysailer thats easy to sail right from your backyard dock, the J/95 has few peers. Whether the model takes off as a one-design fleet or the thin-water sailors preferred PHRF boat will depend on what the future holds.

One question mark is price. True, a bronze centerboard adds significant construction costs (about $15,000 according to Rod Johnstone), but a $180,000 day boat with camp-style amenities is a not our idea of a contender in the one-design realm. And if we were going to pay big money to pursue our passion, wed expect to see a little more attention to detail from the builder.

A second potential hurdle is the allure of a multihull. The Corsair Dash, reviewed in the May 2010 issue, is also well-adapted to shallow water, and goes for less than half the price of the J/95. The two are very different animals, but if a brisk high-performance ride in shallow water is your goal, multihulls have a strong appeal.

Over the long haul, the boat should hold its value well. J/Boats remains one of the most recognized names in performance sailing, and even some race scarred veterans hold their own on the used boat market. No, the J/95 is not Finisterre , but given our own experiences in the Gulf of Mexico, its an exciting option for a wide range of shallow-water sailors-not just the greybeards inspired by Carleton Mitchells exploits.

Bottom line: We like the J/95 concept, and its performance, even with the centerboard raised, is remarkable. Fitting out details could be improved, but we imagine the company will quickly address most of our gripes, which are not expensive fixes.

The J/Boats marketing allusion to Finisterre is just silly, but we suspect that if Mitchell were alive today, he would like the J/95s mission. As he confronted the inconvenient truths of old age, Carleton Mitchell, one of the most passionate and eloquent champions of sailing, spent his last years on the shoalwaters of Biscayne Bay, Florida … reluctantly driving a powerboat.

Interior and Construction Notes J/95
Interior and Construction Notes J/95 Cont.
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centerboard

cen·ter·board

Cen•ter•board.

across the board
centreboard
daggerboard
sailing boat
sliding keel
Center of a fleet
Center of an army
center of attention
center of buoyancy
center of burst
center of curvature
Center of curvature of a curve
center of flotation
center of gravity
center of gravity limits
Center of gyration
center of immersion
Center of inertia
center of mass
Center of motion
Center of oscillation
Center of percussion
Center of pressure
center punch
Center seal
center spread
center stage
centerfield
centerfielder
Centerfire cartridge
Center-fire cartridge
centerpiece
Centers for Disease Control
centers of gravity
Centesimation
Centicipitous
Centifidous
Centifolious
centigrade scale
center-of-gravity travel
center-of-mass coordinate system
Center-of-Mass Reference System
Center-of-Mass System
center-of-momentum coordinate system
center-of-pressure coefficient
center-opening door
center-pivoted door
center-pod configuration
Center-point Based Regional Access
Center-Right Trade Union
center-surround retinal organization
Center-Tap Terminated
Center-tap transformer
Center-Tapped
Center-tapped transformer
Center-tapped transformers
Center-to-Center
Center-TRACON Automation System
Center-Worked Prebake
Centera Universal Access
Centeralized Autonomous Message Reporting
Centerband Only Detection of Exchange
centerboards
Centere (disambiguation)
Centereach High School
centered around
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Centerfield
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What is a Sailboat Centerboard?
Centreboard
2013 Mariner Centerboard Sailboat
What Does The Keel Do On A Sailboat And How It Works
Using a Sailboat's Centerboard
Choosing a Centerboard or Fixed Keel Sailboat

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Sailboat Meaning

COMMENTS

What is a Sailboat Centerboard?
A sailboat centerboard is a retractable fin that protrudes from the bottom of the hull. The centerboard keeps the boat stable and on course. Centerboards are an important and often overlooked part of a sailboat, but they're essential to stability and effective navigation. Centerboards perform the function of a keel and keep the boat on course ...
Sailboat Centerboard: Everything You Need to Know
A sailboat centerboard is a retractable keel or fin located in the center of the boat's hull. It provides stability by counteracting lateral forces from wind, allowing the vessel to sail closer to the wind. The centerboard can be raised or lowered based on water depth and sailing conditions, optimizing performance and preventing damage.
Centreboard
A centreboard or centerboard (US) is a retractable hull appendage which pivots out of a slot in the hull of a sailboat, known as a centreboard trunk (UK) or centerboard case (US). The retractability allows the centreboard to be raised to operate in shallow waters, to move the centre of lateral resistance (offsetting changes to the sailplan that move the centre of effort aft), to reduce drag ...
Making the Most of Centerboards
Ease the main or lower the traveler. Reef the main and the headsail in balance. When sailing off the wind, it is often better to reef the main before the jib, to help keep her head down. Rake the mast to spec. Sail the boat flat. Bear away in the puffs when sailing deep, before the boat begins to heel excessively.
What's the deal with Centerboards?
The centerboard can get stuck in the up or down position. The centerboard is designed to pivot up and down in the trunk with fairly small tolerances on either side. Any more space than what is needed to get the board out, and it will interfere with the flow of water over the hull, increasing water resistance and drag.
Centerboard Sailboats: Everything You Need to Know
== Short answer centerboard sailboats == Centerboard sailboats are vessels equipped with a retractable keel, called the centerboard, which improves stability and prevents drifting. These boats are highly versatile, allowing navigation in shallow waters by raising the centerboard or deeper waters when lowered. This design is commonly found in small to mid-sized sailing craft.
Daggerboard vs Centerboard: Choosing the Right Option for Your Sailboat
Definition: To start with, let's define each board type. A daggerboard is a retractable keel that can be raised or lowered vertically through a slot in the hull of a sailboat. On the other hand, a centerboard is also an adjustable keel-like appendage but pivots around a single point when lifted out of the water. 2. Functionality:
Understanding the Function of a Centerboard in Sailing
The centerboard works by creating resistance in the water, which counteracts the sideways force of the wind and keeps the boat on course. When the centerboard is lowered, it extends into the water from a slot in the keel of the boat. This increases the boat's lateral resistance and prevents it from sliding to leeward.
Centerboard VS Daggerboard The Differences Explained
Centerboard. The centerboard is mounted horizontally on a rotating bolt at the foremost part of the foil (keep reading to understand what a foil is). It folds into a comparatively much longer slot in the hull than a daggerboard. A centerboard comes in many different shapes and sizes, it can be combined with an already existing keel, or it can ...
Choosing a Centerboard or Fixed Keel Sailboat
This article will help you choose which is best for your needs. As only a very general rule, most sailboats over 20-something feet have fixed keels. Most sailboats under 15 feet or so have centerboards. But there is a wide range of boats from 12 to about 25 feet with either a fixed keel or a centerboard. For example, in this photo, the boat on ...
Some Common Centerboard and Daggerboard Designs
In the case of the Seward 46RK, the daggerboard, or lifting keel, is comprised of a solid polyester composite, with a fiberglass skin and a series of stainless rods running the length of the foil to both increase stiffness and carry a 7,500lb cast-lead ballast bulb. An electric motor, operated by a set of buttons at the mast, raises and lowers ...
How a Gybing Centerboard Works
The centerboard trunk on the right has a gybing board in it. The CB head does not have two parallel sides, rather the head is a parallelogram. Since the boat is on port tack, the centerboard is loaded on the leeward - right hand - side, and rocks to weather in the trunk.
Centerboard (Swing Keel) vs. Fixed Keel: Pros and Cons
To help you out, I'll list the pros and cons of fixed vs. swing keels on sailboats in this article. Fixed keels offer better performance than swing keels and centerboards, since they are more comfortable and faster. They require less maintenance. However, swing keels offer a low draft, and are less prone to damage when running aground.
Sailboat Centerboard Upgrade
As this board was a thin flat plate, this performance was rather poor, consistent with the excessive leeway (115? tacking angles) and noticeable lee helm of the vessel. A thicker, more effective centerboard would not fit the narrow centerboard slot of the vessel.
Sailboat Keel Types: Illustrated Guide (Bilge, Fin, Full)
The most common sailboat keel types are full-length keels, fin keels, bulb keels, wing keels, bilge keels, and lifting keels. Full keels are popular among cruisers, while fin keels are generally used for racing. Bilge keels and lifting keels are typically used in tidal waters, on small fishing boats for example.
Centerboard Sailboat: The Ultimate Guide for Smooth Sailing
Short answer centerboard sailboat: A centerboard sailboat is a type of sailing vessel that includes a retractable fin-like appendage called a centerboard. Centerboards provide stability and help prevent lateral drift when sailing upwind. They can be raised in shallow waters or when the boat is not under sail, and lowered for enhanced stability while underway.
Daggerboard vs Centerboard: Deciding Between Similar Terms
The sailor deftly maneuvered the centerboard, allowing the boat to sail smoothly through the water. As the wind shifted, the sailor adjusted the position of the centerboard to keep the boat on course. The centerboard was a critical component of the sailboat's design, providing stability and control in a variety of conditions.
A Short List of Centerboard Cruising Boats
Ive sailed on a couple of these sloops and like the way they look and sail. The boats heritage gives it a loyal following (a good thing to look for in any used boat). Pros: Storied design, with a good deck layout and comfortable motion. Cons: Finish quality varies greatly as many were owner-completed. Factory interior is pretty basic. 3. Tartan ...
Helm Balance
Lowering the Centerboard Upwind to Increase Weather Helm / Pointing Height; ... or increasing/decreasing heel. A sailboat's center of effort and center of lateral resistance are two characteristics that affect helm balance. Yacht design has many other calculations such as the center of buoyancy, center of flotation, fineness coefficient ...
New J/95 Centerboard Sailboat is Fit for Shallow Water
J/Boats new shoalsailer redraws the playing field for fast daysailers. Given the grief that poor centerboard designs from the 1970s have caused sailers over the years, we were surprised to learn that J/Boats-known for its measured approach to the boat business (don't let that radical backslash fool you)-put a centerboard in its new J/95. Yes ...
Centerboard Definition & Meaning
centerboard: [noun] a retractable keel used especially in sailboats.
centerboard sailboats for sale by owner.
centerboard preowned sailboats for sale by owner. centerboard used sailboats for sale by owner. Home. Register & Post. View All Sailboats. Search. ... Featured Sailboats (all): 47' Valiant 47 Brunswick, Georgia Asking $149,900. 19' Com-pac 19 Annapolis, Maryland Asking $10,500. 26' MacGregor 26M Boise, Idaho
Centerboard
Define centerboard. centerboard synonyms, centerboard pronunciation, centerboard translation, English dictionary definition of centerboard. n. A movable keel in a sailboat that can be pivoted upward to reduce the boat's draft in shallow water.