building a sailboat mast

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How to Build a Wooden Mast

A tapered, oval new york 32 spar from the original plans.

ISLA, New York 32 No.10 (of a total of 20), was thoroughly rebuilt last year by Buzzards Bay Yacht Services of Mattapoisett, Massachusetts. The job included a new mast, whose construction is detailed on the following pages.

W hen my company was hired to restore New York 32 No. 10, ISLA, in 2008, the boat had been out of service for over 25 years. The 20-boat New York 32 fleet was designed by Sparkman & Stephens in 1935 and built over the winter of 1935–36 by Henry B. Nevins of City Island, New York. When we found her, ISLA was a virtual time capsule, with an intact original interior and a complete set of original hardware. But the hull and deck were tired, to say the least, and the spars were beyond repair. So, included in the work list were a new mast and boom.

The New York 32 carries a hollow, oval mast measuring 63′ 5″. The owners were committed to maintaining ISLA’s originality, so we acquired the original spar drawings from the S&S plan collection at Mystic Seaport. These included ample detail: spreaders, tangs, boom, and masthead, along with the overall mast plan. The following steps describe how we turned those drawings into a new mast for ISLA.

Ordering and Preparing Lumber ISLA’s mast is built of Sitka spruce, which has long been prized by sparmakers for its long, clear lengths, light weight, and impressive strength for that weight. From the plans we developed a lumber list for the mast, boom, and spreaders. While it is still possible to acquire excellent-quality Sitka spruce, it takes some searching and a keen eye for defects. We required at least 12/4 stock to fashion the forward and after staves.

For spars, it’s imperative that the wood be dry (below 15 percent moisture content) and free of defects. The grain must be vertical. Our first attempt to procure lumber for this mast resulted in us receiving a batch of 12/4 Sitka spruce that was case-hardened. It was dry to both the touch and to the moisture meter, but once milled and its center exposed, its moisture content went off the scale. When we tried to rip it on the tablesaw, it pinched the saw’s blade and stopped the saw. We replaced that batch of wood with properly dried material, and learned a lesson in the process.

We ran the rough-sawn boards we had purchased through the thickness planer to take “fur” off of each one, allowing for a better inspection of the surface of the wood. When doing so, we kept in mind the minimum thickness of the staves, so we wouldn’t carelessly plane off too much. With this done, we examined each board, measuring its usable portion, marking visible defects, and labeling each piece for its intended location in the mast. A board with tight grain is slightly denser and thus heavier than one with wider ring spacing; we strived to locate these heavier pieces toward the bottom of the spar. If another board had slight grain runout, we’d consider using it in the mast’s heel where it is under less stress and is backed by solid blocking. It’s also important to keep in mind the locations of the scarfs when selecting the lengths of stock that will compose each stave, for the scarfs must be staggered.

Utilizing the Drawing

The drawing shown here is an illustration of the original Sparkman & Stephens mast plan for the New York 32, whose vertical scale was compressed in order to fit the mast’s dimensions onto a single sheet of paper. From the drawing we created a table of offsets for the mast. To do this we drew a series of stations, 5′ apart, perpendicular to the mast’s centerline. We did this for both the side and forward views of the mast.

The drawing shown here is an illustration of the original Sparkman & Stephens mast plan for the New York 32

For the forward and after staves, we recorded the overall thickness of the stave (that is, its thickness before hollowing) and its half width. For the side staves, we recorded the thickness and width at each station. We converted the mast plan drawing from 32nds of an inch to decimal units, which I find best when working to close tolerances using digital calipers. We then made up 10″ × 10″ lauan templates on which to draw the sectional shape of the mast at each station. Since the forward and after profiles are arcs of a circle, we transferred these shapes from the drawing to the lauan with the aid of a compass. After each shape was transferred we cut out these lauan templates with a bandsaw. On each template, we also recorded the sidewall thickness, forward and after wall thicknesses, and distance from the heel of the mast. Building this New York 32 mast as was done originally requires hollowing out the thick forward and after staves in order to lighten their weight. So, once again using the mast plan, we made templates for the mast’s inside shape at each section.

The Spar Bench

The first step in building the mast is to construct a spar bench. We wanted a sturdy bench that was straight and set at a good working height. Typically, a spar bench comprises a series of sturdy sawhorses spaced 5′ apart and fastened securely to the shop floor. Identical wooden sawhorses work well for this; once they were secured to the floor, a mason’s string was run to assure that the tops were all in the same plane; the tops were then shimmed as needed to achieve this. The 2 × 10 plank seen here being screwed to the sawhorses is to support the staves during the scarfing operation, and will later be removed.

Gluing Up Full-Length Staves

On our nice, solid bench, we laid out the wood for each of the mast’s four staves end-to-end and developed a final scarf plan. We planed the stock to the maximum designed thickness for the forward and after staves (2.875″) and for the side staves (1.25″). Then we scarfed the stock together to create the full-length staves. Careful layout and labeling were required for this step. We examined the stock and put the most visually pleasing sides facing out, and we spread out the scarf locations to avoid clustering them. Scarfs were cut to a slope of 12 to 1, with their lines drawn onto the edges of each piece. They were rough-cut on the bandsaw, and then finished with a jig and a router. With the scarfs cut, we assembled the pieces dry and ran a string down each of their centerlines to confirm that each of the four full-length staves, once glued, would be straight.

When we were certain that the staves would be straight and true, we screwed blocks to the spar bench to chock them in place. The individual pieces could then be removed from the bench, turned over for gluing, and placed back in their precise positions. The final step in preparing the scarf for epoxy glue was to rough up the surface of the glue joint. Eighty-grit sandpaper backed by a long block works well for this, as does the technique we used: a Japanese pull saw drawn across the grain so its teeth combed the surface. (This process is for epoxy gluing only; resorcinol and other glues rely on smooth mating surfaces.)

Once the surface was roughed up, we vacuumed both faces of the joint and then wiped them with a clean rag and denatured alcohol until the rags came up clean. We then wet out both gluing surfaces with straight epoxy and allowed that to stand for several minutes while it penetrated the wood. Dry spots were wetted a second time. We then applied epoxy thickened with colloidal silica to one face of the joint. Using large bar clamps and modest pressure, we clamped the joints, making sure we had a nice, even glue squeeze-out.

Tapering the Staves

Once the staves were glued full-length, we selected the aft stave, blocked it straight on the spar bench, and snapped a centerline. Then, using the information from the lauan templates and the offset table, the points representing the stave’s profile were laid out and connected with a long, limber batten. One of the side staves was marked similarly.

We rough-cut the profiles with a worm-drive circular saw being careful to leave the lines intact. We then cut closer with a power plane, and then shaved precisely to the lines with an appropriate hand plane, making sure that the edges stayed perfectly square. With one stave of each profile now complete, we used each as a template for its mirroring stave, making the final cuts with a router and bearing bit to complete the second pair of staves.

To minimize weight aloft, the wall thickness diminishes as we progress up the mast. Once again we turned to the lauan templates on which we’d recorded the wall thickness at each station. Using digital calipers, we recorded on both edges of each stave the wall thickness at each station and connected the dots with our long batten.

This line, yet to be cut, is shown in the drawing. The stock was removed from the outside faces of the staves, the bulk of it with a power plane. The final cleanup was completed with a bench plane.

Rabbeting the Forward and After Staves

Hollowing the Forward and After Stave

The final step before gluing the staves together was to hollow out the forward and after staves. On the lauan templates we referred to the inside profile shapes we had recorded from the mast drawing. Dividing the inside profile into 1⁄4″ sections, we measured and recorded the depth at each section. We did this at each station. The inside face of the stave was thus lined off in 1⁄4″ increments.

Then, using a circular saw set at the depth indicated by the lauan template, we cut kerfs in the inside face of the stave. With each pass of the saw, we reduced the depth of the cut as we moved toward the masthead and farther from the center of the stave. With the kerfs completed, we used a gouge to scoop out the waste. We arrived at the final shape by using a backing-out plane followed by 80-grit sandpaper on a round sanding block.

With the staves cut to their profiles and tapered in thickness, and the forward and after staves rabbeted and hollowed, we double checked that the spar bench was still straight. The next step was to lay the after stave on the bench, sail-track side down, and hold it straight with blocks screwed to the bench so the spar could not move. We then did a final dry-fit of the three remaining staves to make sure all joints were tight.

When satisfied with the bench and the joints, we began mixing glue. A large spar such as this takes about four people to glue up; any fewer, and panic would certainly ensue. The glue-up seems to work best as a two-step process. The first step was to glue the side staves to the after stave, using the forward stave as a dry-fitted guide to ensure that the side staves remained parallel. We clamped the spar in 1′ increments, checking that it remained square along its entire length. Using the two-step process allows ample time to fit and install the solid blocking at the head and heel of the mast. The drawing calls for blocking in the bottom 11′ of the spar and in the top 2′ 6″.

The blocking is solid until about the final foot, where it tapers to a feather edge on either side of the spar, forming a swallow-tail shape to avoid a hard spot. This heel blocking has a drain hole, in case of water intrusion. There is no blocking at the spreaders; instead, the spreaders have an external bracket and blocking system that transfers the load evenly to the spar.

We coated all interior surfaces with epoxy. At this stage, we also ran all of the wires inside the mast, securing them with large cable clamps. (Conduit fastened securely along the interior of the spar—and through the blocking—works well for this, too.) When everything was satisfactory inside the mast, the forward stave was glued to the side staves to cap the assembly. Several varieties of clamps can be used when gluing up a spar: spar clamps, bar clamps, C-clamps, or a banding tool. We used a combination of clamps and a banding tool supplemented with wedges to further tension the plastic band.

With the glue cured and the clamps off, it was time to begin the shaping process. The first step was to plane off the excess glue. With that done, we again turned to our handy lauan templates and began the process of eight-siding the spar. Using the exterior cross-section drawn on each template, we found where a 45-degree line would be tangent to the mast’s outside surface at each station. We transferred these points to the spar, and with the long batten connected them with fair lines.

We then set our circular saw to 45 degrees and made a cut, just leaving the line. Repeating this on all four sides of the mast, and then fairing up the saw cuts with a power plane followed by a hand plane, yielded an eight-sided spar. We then lined the spar off again to 16 sides, but this time we omitted the circular saw and removed the waste with only a power plane. When we had the spar 16-sided, we finished the rounding and fairing with hand planes and a custom-built concave fairing board. Once again our lauan templates came into play, as we used them to confirm the correct shape at each station. Two other details that had to be considered at this stage were the shape of the heel of the spar, and the masthead detail.

With the mast now shaped and sanded, we broke out the varnish and applied 10 coats before installing the track and hardware. We were fortunate to have all of the original tangs and other fittings for this spar, because fabricating them would have required quite a bit more work. With the spar varnished the hardware was installed, carefully bedded in soft compound. We were very careful in fastening into the Sitka spruce, as it is quite soft. We chose machine screws rather than wood screws for mounting the winches and the boom gooseneck track—after testing these fastenings on offcuts to find the best pilot-hole diameters.

This article was originally published in  WoodenBoat No. 214, May/June 2010.

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March / April Issue No. 297  Preview Now

A “New” Method for Hollow Wooden Mast Construction

By reuel parker.

I have developed a “new” mast construction method for use on light- to moderate-displacement sailboats having a Marconi rig, and for motorsailers. I put “new” in quotes because I am sure it has been thought of before now.

Mast Section from step to spreaders, 9 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ outside dimensions.

The four corners of the new construction sequence are all made identical in section, from Douglas fir or Sitka spruce 3″ x 3″ lumber. The corner pieces are rounded to a 2 1/2″ diameter radius, the inner corner is cut to a 45-degree bevel (to lighten the mast), and 1/2″ x 3/4″ rabbets are cut onto two corners to receive 1/2″ marine plywood front, back and sides. The corners are epoxy scarfed (8:1) full-height. They are identical in every location, greatly simplifying construction, as all corners are cut using a table saw set to the same settings. All mast taper is made on the plywood sides, back and front.

Construction uses epoxy glue and monel or stainless steel fasteners (staples, nails or screws) 6″ on center. With proper clamping, fasteners may be eliminated altogether.

The mast section is uniform from step to spreaders (as shown above). Above the spreaders, mast section tapers parabolically to 5 1/2″ x 7 1/2″. If so desired, for further weight-savings aloft, the inside corners may be cut deeper, removing more material. Doing so will weaken the mast only very slightly.

Mast Section at Head is 5 1/2″ x 7 1/2″—taper is parabolic above spreaders.

All fore & aft mast taper is on the front only—the back of the mast is perfectly straight for its entire height unless built-in “pre-curve” is desired. [The purpose of pre-curve is to automatically flatten the sail chord for windward work as the sail is sheeted in.] A 1/2″ plywood backup block is installed inside the mast back to receive fasteners for the #1808 Harken track shown.

Plywood panels from step to spreaders are ripped on the table saw to uniform dimensions. Panels above the spreaders are ripped for parabolic taper (back edge straight for the sides). Front and back panels above the spreaders are ripped along both edges for taper. Plywood panels are scarfed 8::1. If desired, for greater durability, the mast may be wrapped in 4 oz Xynole-polyester fabric saturated with epoxy, with the seam located under the mast track (this will add weight). The inside of the mast is epoxy sealed. Wires (including lightning ground) are pulled in PVC pipe attached to a side panel prior to lay-up.

Note that in my drawings, the edges of the plywood are affected by the radii of the mast corners. When finishing shaping, the outer laminate will be abraded along the edges. Masts finished in this fashion will definitely require fabric/epoxy covering. You can avoid this by making the radius 2″ instead of 2 ½″, at the expense of a more “square” looking spar section.

For the nut-cases (I have been one) who insist on having varnished spars—make the corners (use the 2″ radius) and plywood from the same species wood; epoxy seal and apply 12 coats of varnish that has a good UV filter—I recommend using Douglas fir for the species. I generally prefer using epoxy primers covered with linear polyurethane topcoats—very durable—and almost no maintenance.

The Harken #1808 track shown uses “Battcars” designed to receive the forward ends of solid fiberglass full-length battens. The only sail cars necessary are one for each batten, and reef points are located immediately below each of the lowest three battens. This simplifies sail construction and cost, and simplifies reefing, especially when used in concert with my Basket Boom, which contains the reefed portion of the sail. Said boom (my wishbone-style Basket Boom), also uses Battcars located at the base of the track (see Boom Detail drawing below).

Spreader details.

Spreaders are made from polished 1″ stainless steel thin-wall tubing (or 3/4″ aluminum pipe) welded to 1/8″ stainless steel side and back plates. The plates are attached to the mast with 1″ x #14 flat head self-tapping screws, and are bedded with polysulfide rubber. Spreader lift angle should bisect the angle the upper shrouds make at the wingtips.

Detail of a masthead—the SS top plate is configured fore & aft for application (shown is the foremast for a schooner with equal height masts).

The masthead is made by adding solid wood sections fore & aft with a 1/2″ plywood cap to support two stainless steel straps, drilled and bent at their ends to receive shackles for stays and shrouds. Delrin sheaves (3″ Schaefer) are used for internal halyards as shown above. Sheave pins are 7/16″ SS. Dimensions shown are for masts on a 45’ motorsailer using 5/16″ shrouds, triatic stay and twin backstays, and 3/8″ forestay and main stay.

The mast construction, as drawn, is much stronger than necessary for the specific application intended (Motorsailer 45), and the solid corners could be made from 2x4s (as described below), in lieu of the 3x3s shown. This would save materials costs, and to a lesser extent, labor. I would stress, however, that air-dried wood is much preferable to kiln-dried wood for durability and rot-resistance. If using kiln-dried wood, I would be very thorough in epoxy sealing the mast interior, and I would cover the finished mast with Xynole-polyester fabric and epoxy. As always, great care should be taken with bedding compounds (these days I mostly use Bostik #920, above and below the waterline).

Basket Boom details.

I developed a new type of boom several years ago to utilize the Harken track. The upper portion is a “wishbone” boom, which clears both sides of the sail. The lower portion eliminates the need for a vang. When the sail is dropped, it falls inside the “basket”, which may have lacing on each side (not shown) to contain the sail and battens. A sail cover may be placed inside the basket boom with a top covering panel secured by Velcro. The boom could alternately be fabricated from polished stainless steel, using 1-1/2″ thin-wall tubing.

The basket boom uses two Harken Battcars at each attachment point (upper & lower), and should incorporate a downhaul to increase luff tension. In adapting this boom to other vessels, note that the wishbone must be designed to contact the after shroud (when reaching or running) before it touches the mast to prevent damaging the track and fasteners.

The new mast construction is intended for the Motorsailer 45 shown above, but may be employed on any light- to moderate-displacement vessel in this size range using the Marconi rig and single (or double) spreaders.

The new masts may be tabernacled, deck-stepped (over compression posts), or keel stepped. The overall weight of these masts will be as light or lighter than that for aluminum masts of equivalent strength .

For lighter loads or for even lighter-weight masts, corners may be made from 2x4s (on the flat at 45 degrees); and sides, front and back may be made from 3/8″ 5-ply marine plywood (such as Shelman or Joubert). Smaller masts and spars can use the same construction, with scantlings down-sized appropriately. Fabric/epoxy covering will prolong mast life, but is not particularly necessary structurally. All fasteners penetrating the finished mast should be either sleeved (bolts for shroud attachment) or carefully bedded using flexible, UV-resistant compound.

I know carbon-fiber masts are all the rage now, but I still firmly believe that well-designed and –made wood/epoxy masts are the overall best in terms of light-weight, strength, durability and low cost. A mast made using the above method will cost a fraction of an equivalent mast in carbon fiber or aluminum, and it will be more durable. As I keep telling people, aluminum is good for beer cans!

4/2/2014 St. Lucie Village, FL

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Wooden Mast and Spar Building

A mast or spar made from wood not only looks and feels good but it also takes advantage of the naturally ability that trees have developed over the centuries for creating a tall, strong, flexible pole.

Those tall straight pine and fir trees are able to grow to such heights and survive in wind storms because their natural elasticity absorbs the shock loads caused by gusting winds.

Structural Considerations

Solid/grown spars, rounding the square.

• Built Spars
• Your comments and suggestions

There are several reasons why soft woods are the chosen type of timber used in the making of masts and spars.

The first and most obvious is that so any soft wood trees grow exceedingly tall and straight.

And because they have grown so tall and straight they have developed the ‘elasticity’ to withstand all that the elements can throw at them.

Soft woods are also more likely to be lighter in weight.

Sitka Spruce (Silver, Tideland or Menzies Spruce) has long been the top choice for mast builders.

However many other spars have been built using whatever light, straight-grained wood was available, such as those shown below.

• Douglas fir (British Columbian, Oregon, Idaho, Red, pine also known as Red or Yellow fir)
• Scots pine (European redwood, Northern pine, Red pine, Redwood, Scots fir, Norway fir, Swedish fir, Finish fir)
• Port Orford cedar (Oregon cedar, White cedar, Ginger pine, Lawson’s cypress)

When choosing a timber look for one that is as light and straight grained as possible with, hopefully few knots.

However, a few small ones knots can be acceptable.

The timber should ideally be seasoned, especially if you are building a hollow spar.

I have heard of solid masts being made from green poles.

But green timber is more likely to develop shakes and will be less able to absorb any preservative, oil, varnish or whatever you use as a finish.

A mast/spar needs both strength and stiffness and be able to resist fatigue.

Sometimes these characteristics can be conflicting.

Strength or resistance to breaking in wood involves its elasticity which allows the wood to bend to absorb stresses.

Whereas stiffness is the resistance to bending.

All spars need to be able to absorb the shock of a gust which the wood absorbs by bending but too much bend will spoil the sail shape so a happy compromise is needed.

And stresses will differ depending on the types of rig and whether the mast keel stepped, deck stepped or in a tabernacle.

Another consideration is weight aloft.

Keeping weight within reasonable bounds is just one of the reasons for using soft woods.

It is also one reason for building a hollow mast.

However, most spars taper towards the top, as the diameter becomes smaller so the weight becomes less.

For the average cruising yacht the weight differences between a solid and a hollow spar are hardly significant.

The other advantage of the hollow, built spar is that it can be made from easily available timber sizes, and with a minimum of waste.

The simplest, easiest and least wasteful spars are produced from ‘grown’ timbers.

I theory it should be possible to acquire a trunk which has the length and taper needed for your spar.

In practice you will have to do some shaping, tapering and rounding.

While traditionally masts and spars were spherical, they don’t have to be.

However, in my opinion a spherical mast will produce the least turbulence to the air passing over the rig.

It is possible to make a spherical spar from one piece of square cross-section timber.

However, it will be much easier to source timers of smaller cross-section and then build the spar up from them.

And the advantage is that the grain can then be arranged in a radial fashion.

Building a spar from separate parts does require very careful attention to the gluing surfaces, they must be closely mating and the actual gluing must be precise.

If you are confident in your carpentry and gluing skills, short lengths can be scarffed  to produce the required length.

Scarf joints are best at least ten times the thickness of the piece and when the various pieces are assembled the joints should be staggered.

And remember to never ever cut a piece of wood to its exact length until you absolutely have to.

First determine the required diameter of your spar and then where you want your it to taper and by how much.

This will depend on the design of you rig.

You may want the spar to have no taper for some of its length/height, to just above the partners, then have a slight taper, perhaps as far as the spreaders,  then a bit more of a taper up to the truck.

Always best to start with the wood a little wider, thicker, and longer than the finished dimensions.

Plane one surface flat and level with your longest plane, preferably a jointer.

Then mark the center line on this planed face.

Use a string stretched between tacks in the middle of each end, use this to make several center marks on the timber.

Then join the marks using a long, straight batten.

Repeat on the opposite face.

Now use the centreline as the datum from which to mark the width of your mast at intervals along its length.

Then back to the batten to connect these marks.

You can now cut the outline of your mast to this drawn profile but cut it oversized as you still need to plane the timer square.

Now plane these two sawn, tapered faces flat and square to the original planed surface.

Repeat the steps for marking the center line and profile on these two new faces.

Cut this outline and plane these sides flat and square to their adjacent sides.

You now have a spar tapered to your requirement but it is still square in cross-section.

Now you need to start rounding the square.

So now you’ve got a nicely tapered, planed but square, four sided spar.

Next job is to plane off the four corners to give you an eight sided spar.

Then plane off those eight corners to give you a sixteen sided spar, which can then easily be rounded using sandpaper.

But before you start taking off the corners you need to mark the depth of the bevels.

The simple way is to draw a circle on the face of the timber with a compass.

The center of the circle will be on the centreline and the edge of the circle right on the edge of the face.

Then draw a line from the center of the circle, at 45 degree to the centreline and mark where it crosses the circle.

This mark is the edge of the bevel.

Do this for every transition point and as many points in between as possible, the more the merrier and do it foe both sides of the circle.

These marks can then be joined using your batten.

One you have planed the spar down to eight sides you can use the same method to mark it up for reducing it to sixteen sides.

But now the line from the center of the circle to the circumference needs to be 67 ½ degrees.

Now unless you are building a massive spar getting from 16 sides to 32 sides using the above measuring technique is going to become fiddly.

At this stage it is quicker to use your eye and your judgment to plane off the remaining corners.

Then the final rounding can be done by sanding.

Start with 60 or 80 grit paper for the initial shaping, then work the grits for finishing.

Use long strips of sandpaper wrapped around the spar and pull it backwards and forwards in a long, spiralling motion.

Occasionally sand along the length of the mast to help fair out any uneven spots.

Here is an easy way to mark out a tapered octagon using only one setting of your compass.

Building a spar is obviously much more difficult than simply shaping a solid pole.

However, if a pole of the required dimensions is not available building the spar might be the only option.

Built spars can be either solid or hollow.

But if you are building one it is relatively simple to make it hollow and thus save weight aloft and create a central channel for masthead wiring.

Building a simple cylindrical spar as those shown above from ‘square’ timbers does require wasting quite a lot of that expensive wood when 'rounding the square'.

One can build an almost waste free hollow spar which would suit a conventional bermudan rig.

However, a ‘square’ section with rounded corners such as this would be unsuitable for any rig which uses mast hoops or parrel beads or a lug rig where the spar turns against the mast.

The next problem when creating a hollow spar is that unlike the solid mast the taper cannot be created afterwards.

Any taper to the finished spar needs to be cut from the staves before they are assembled.

There have been several configurations used to increase the gluing areas across the width of built staves.

And several configurations which attempt to reduce wastage and at the same time produce large gluing surfaces.

Unfortunately while they will produce superb, strong spars they call for increasingly complex carpentry.

The ‘Birdsmouth’ technique developed by Nobles of Bristol UK is perhaps one of the most successful of these techniques.

However, it is a technique which really requires access to woodworking machinery, such as profiling and planing machines.

Setting up your standing rigging can be greatly simplified by using ‘Spectra’.

‘Spectra’ is virtually stretch free and can be tied off without much weakening.

It offers a real alternative to expensive swaged fittings, can be easily maintained and it is corrosion-free.

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Rivets and Copper Rove Wood Boat Fastenings.

How to use Copper Rivets and Roves construction guide to fasteners on your wooden boat.

Ring Nails for Marine Fastening.

Ring Nails sometimes call Gripfast or ring shank, silicon bronze boat nails are renowned for their holding power. but how to get them out?

HELEN M HOBART

Jan 21, 24 05:31 AM

Drain plug for wooden hull

Dec 28, 23 11:28 AM

The Dipping Lug Sail

The dipping lug sail, is perhaps the most efficient and cheapest, type of sailing rig especially for small sailboats however it isn't as handy as the standing lugger or the balanced lugsail.

UV Strip for Furling Sails

UV Strip, notes on repairing, fitting and replacing a sacrificial UV protection strip on furling sails using acrylic or UV protected Dacron.

Sailing Rigs, a Guide to Sail Shapes.

The basic shape of the Sailing Rigs most commonly found on wooden sailing boats of every size.

About sail cloth and the different materials for DIY sail making and the average leisure sailor.

Sail Balance

Notes on Sail Balance, designing a sailing rig, how set the relationship between the center of effort and the center of lateral resistance.

Lug Rigs for large and small sailboats.

Sailors have been using Lug Rigs for centuries because of their unique sailing abilities.

Junk Rig the ideal cruising sail.

How to rig a western version of the Chinese Junk Rig the basic lines and controls.

Junk Rig, How I Made My Own.

Junk Rig Sails How I built and rigged Mignonne with a Juk Sail

Junk Rig Conversion

Structural considerations for a Junk rig conversion of a wooden boat from bermudan rig to junk sail, where and how to site the mast.

Chinese Junk, the perfect cruising rig.

Chinese junk sail, why I rigged Mignonne with a Jukn Sail

Ropes and Rigs for Boating.

Boating ropes and rigs, knots, sailing, line handling and line care, what all boaters need to know.

Whipping Boat Ropes

Whipping marine ropes to prevent the ends fraying, how to use whipping twine to prevent rigging and yacht ropes from untwisting.

Splicing Three Strand Rope.

Splicing, tips and techniques, three strand eyes and rope ends, make your own dock lines why pay for something you can easily do yourself.

Rope types, what types, construction and materials to use on your boat when to use three strand and braided marine lines.

Knots for Sailors.

A brief description of and how to tie some of the most useful boating knots. Including some that every boater should know.

Handy Billy a traditional rope and sheave rig.

A Handy Billy made with two blocks and tackle can be used to give mechanical advantage wherever needed.

Blocks and Tackle lines and sheaves.

How Blocks and Tackle work to give mechanical advantage and how best to rig them.

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I am perfectly aware that the majority of Wooden Boat aficionados are sensible folk. However, I need to point out that I am an amateur wooden boat enthusiast simply writing in order to try to help other amateur wooden boat enthusiasts. And while I take every care to ensure that the information in DIY Wood Boat.com is correct, anyone acting on the information on this website does so at their own risk.

WOODEN BOW TIES

How to build a wooden sailboat: a beginner's guide.

Are you interested in building your own sailboat? If so, building a wooden sailboat can be a rewarding and fulfilling experience. Not only will you have a unique vessel to call your own, but you’ll also learn valuable woodworking skills along the way.

To get started, you’ll need to gather the necessary materials and tools. This may include oak plywood, epoxy resin and hardener, thickener, brad nails, masking tape, a pull-saw, and a table saw. Once you have everything you need, you can begin the process of building your sailboat. From creating a jig and frame assembly to making the mast, there are many steps involved in building a wooden sailboat. But with patience and attention to detail, you can create a beautiful and functional vessel that will bring you joy for years to come.

Understanding the Basics of a Wooden Sailboat

If you are interested in building a wooden sailboat, it’s important to understand the basics of how a sailboat is constructed. In this section, we’ll cover the parts of a wooden sailboat and the different types of wooden sailboats.

Parts of a Wooden Sailboat

A wooden sailboat is made up of several parts, each with its own unique function. Here are some of the most important parts:

• Hull : The hull is the main body of the boat. It is the part of the boat that sits in the water and provides buoyancy.
• Keel : The keel is a long, narrow fin that extends down from the bottom of the hull. It helps to keep the boat from capsizing by providing stability.
• Rudder : The rudder is a flat piece of wood or metal that is attached to the back of the boat. It helps to steer the boat.
• Mast : The mast is a tall, vertical pole that supports the sails.
• Sails : The sails are large pieces of fabric that are attached to the mast and other parts of the boat. They catch the wind and propel the boat forward.
• Boom : The boom is a horizontal pole that is attached to the bottom of the mast. It helps to control the shape of the sail.

Types of Wooden Sailboats

There are many different types of wooden sailboats, each with its own unique characteristics. Here are some of the most common types:

• Dinghy : A dinghy is a small sailboat that is typically used for recreational sailing or racing.
• Sloop : A sloop is a sailboat with a single mast and a fore-and-aft rig.
• Ketch : A ketch is a sailboat with two masts, with the main mast taller than the mizzen mast.
• Yawl : A yawl is a sailboat with two masts, with the mizzen mast located aft of the rudder post.

When choosing a type of wooden sailboat to build, it’s important to consider your needs and experience level. A dinghy is a good choice for beginners, while a ketch or yawl may be more suitable for experienced sailors.

By understanding the basics of a wooden sailboat and the different types available, you can make an informed decision about which type of boat to build.

Choosing the Right Materials

When building a wooden sailboat, choosing the right materials is crucial to ensure the boat’s durability and performance. In this section, we will discuss the two most important materials you’ll need to choose: wood and sails/rigging materials.

Selecting the Right Wood

Choosing the right type of wood for your sailboat is critical. You want a wood that is strong, lightweight, and resistant to rot and decay. Some of the most popular types of wood used in sailboat building include:

• Cedar: Lightweight and easy to work with, cedar is an excellent choice for planking and decking.
• Mahogany: Strong and durable, mahogany is often used for building frames and keels.
• Oak: A dense and hard wood, oak is commonly used for building frames and planking.

When selecting your wood, make sure it is free of knots, cracks, and other defects that could weaken the boat’s structure. You should also consider the wood’s grain pattern, as this can affect the boat’s strength and appearance.

Choosing Sails and Rigging Materials

The type of sails and rigging materials you choose will depend on the type of sailboat you’re building and your sailing needs. Some of the most common materials used in sail and rigging construction include:

• Dacron: A strong and durable synthetic material, dacron is commonly used for sailcloth.
• Nylon: Lightweight and flexible, nylon is often used for spinnaker sails.
• Stainless Steel: Strong and corrosion-resistant, stainless steel is commonly used for rigging hardware.

When selecting your sails and rigging materials, consider the conditions you’ll be sailing in and the type of sailing you’ll be doing. For example, if you’ll be racing, you may want to choose lightweight sails and rigging materials that will help you achieve maximum speed. On the other hand, if you’ll be cruising, you may want to choose more durable materials that can withstand rougher conditions.

By choosing the right materials for your wooden sailboat, you can ensure that your boat is strong, durable, and performs well on the water.

Designing Your Sailboat

Before you start building your wooden sailboat, you need to design it. This will involve creating a blueprint and determining the size and shape of your boat.

Creating a Blueprint

Creating a blueprint is an essential step in designing your sailboat. It will help you visualize your boat and ensure that you have all the necessary components in place. You can create a blueprint using software such as AutoCAD or SketchUp, or you can draw it by hand.

When creating your blueprint, consider the following:

• The length, width, and height of your boat
• The position of the mast and sails
• The location of the rudder and keel
• The number of cabins and their layout
• The placement of any storage compartments or equipment

Determining the Size and Shape

The size and shape of your sailboat will depend on several factors, including your budget, the type of sailing you plan to do, and the number of people who will be on board.

Consider the following when determining the size and shape of your sailboat:

• The type of sailing you plan to do (coastal cruising, racing, etc.)
• The number of people who will be on board
• The amount of storage space you will need
• The amount of deck space you will need
• Your budget

Once you have determined the size and shape of your sailboat, you can start gathering materials and building your boat.

Building the Hull

When building a wooden sailboat, the hull is the most important part of the boat. It is the main structure that holds everything together and keeps the boat afloat. Building the hull requires cutting and assembling the wooden frame.

Cutting the Wood

To begin building the hull, you will need to cut the wood into the appropriate sizes and shapes. The wood should be cut according to the plans or blueprints that you have created. You can use a saw or a jigsaw to make the cuts.

It is important to use high-quality wood that is free of knots or other defects. The wood should be strong enough to withstand the pressure and weight of the water. Common types of wood used for building a wooden sailboat include cedar, oak, and mahogany.

Assembling the Frame

Once you have cut the wood, you can begin assembling the frame of the hull. The frame is made up of vertical pieces of wood called frames, which hold the shape of the boat. The frames are attached to the keel, which is the main structure that runs down the center of the boat.

To assemble the frame, you will need to use a sawhorse or other support to hold the lumber in place. You can then use screws or bolts to attach the frames to the keel. It is important to ensure that the frames are level and straight.

After the frames are attached to the keel, you can add the planks to the hull. The planks are attached to the frames and keel using screws or nails. It is important to ensure that the planks are properly aligned and spaced.

Once the planks are attached, you can sand and finish the hull to give it a smooth and polished look. This will also help to protect the wood from the elements.

Building the hull of a wooden sailboat requires patience and attention to detail. With the right tools and materials, you can create a strong and beautiful hull that will last for years to come.

Installing the Deck and Cabin

Installing the deck and cabin of your wooden sailboat is a crucial step in the construction process. It not only adds to the aesthetics of your boat but also provides structural support. Here are some tips to help you through the process.

Deck Installation

The deck of your wooden sailboat should be installed after the hull has been completed and before the cabin is built. It is important to ensure that the deck is watertight to prevent any leaks. Here are the steps to follow when installing the deck:

• Cut the deck to fit the hull and sand the edges to ensure a tight fit.
• Apply a layer of epoxy to the hull and deck joint to seal it.
• Secure the deck to the hull using screws or bolts.
• Apply a layer of fiberglass cloth and epoxy to the deck to make it watertight.
• Sand the surface of the deck to prepare it for painting or varnishing.

Cabin Installation

The cabin of your wooden sailboat provides shelter and storage space. It is important to ensure that it is properly installed to prevent any leaks. Here are the steps to follow when installing the cabin:

• Build the cabin on a flat surface using marine-grade plywood.
• Cut the cabin to fit the deck and hull and sand the edges to ensure a tight fit.
• Apply a layer of epoxy to the cabin and deck joint to seal it.
• Secure the cabin to the deck using screws or bolts.
• Apply a layer of fiberglass cloth and epoxy to the cabin to make it watertight.
• Install any windows, hatches, or doors in the cabin.
• Sand the surface of the cabin to prepare it for painting or varnishing.

By following these steps, you can ensure that your wooden sailboat’s deck and cabin are properly installed and watertight. This will not only make your boat look great but also ensure that you have a safe and enjoyable sailing experience.

Setting Up the Mast and Sails

Now that you have built your wooden sailboat, it is time to set up the mast and sails. This process may seem daunting, but with a little patience and attention to detail, you can have your boat ready to sail in no time.

Step 1: Install the Mast

The first step is to install the mast. Depending on the design of your boat, the mast may be a single piece or assembled from multiple sections. Make sure the mast is secured properly and is straight. Use a level to ensure the mast is vertical in both directions.

Step 2: Prepare the Sails

Next, prepare the sails. Make sure the sails are clean and free of any debris or damage. Attach the sail to the mast using the halyard, which is a rope used to raise and lower the sail. Make sure the sail is hoisted all the way to the top of the mast.

Step 3: Attach the Boom

Attach the boom to the mast and secure it with a boom vang, which is a rope used to control the angle of the boom. The boom is the horizontal spar that holds the bottom edge of the sail.

Step 4: Set the Sail

Once the boom is attached, set the sail. Adjust the angle of the boom and the sail to catch the wind and start moving. You can use the main sheet to control the angle of the sail and the boat’s speed.

Step 5: Trim the Sail

Finally, trim the sail to optimize its performance. This involves adjusting the sail’s shape and position to maximize its power and minimize drag. Use the sail controls, such as the cunningham and outhaul, to adjust the sail’s shape. Use the main sheet to control the sail’s position relative to the wind.

Congratulations! You have successfully set up the mast and sails of your wooden sailboat. Now it’s time to hit the water and enjoy the thrill of sailing.

Applying Finishing Touches

When it comes to building a wooden sailboat, applying the finishing touches is a crucial step that can make all the difference in the final product. Here are some tips and tricks to help you get the perfect finish.

Sanding and Finishing

Before you can apply any finish, you need to make sure the surface is smooth and free of imperfections. This means sanding the wood with progressively finer grits of sandpaper until you achieve the desired smoothness. Once you’ve finished sanding, you can apply a wood conditioner to help the wood absorb the finish more evenly.

When it comes to choosing a finish, you have several options. Some popular choices include varnish, paint, and oil. Varnish is a popular choice for wooden boats because it provides a durable, glossy finish that can withstand the harsh marine environment. Paint is another option, but it requires more maintenance than varnish and may not provide as much protection against the elements. Oil is a good choice if you want a more natural look, but it may not provide as much protection as varnish or paint.

Painting and Varnishing

If you decide to go with paint or varnish, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, make sure you apply the finish in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling fumes. Second, make sure you apply thin, even coats and allow each coat to dry completely before applying the next. This will help prevent drips and ensure a smooth finish.

When it comes to varnishing, it’s important to use a high-quality brush and work quickly to avoid brush marks. You may also want to consider using a foam brush for hard-to-reach areas. Once you’ve applied the final coat of varnish, you can buff the surface with a soft cloth to achieve a high-gloss finish.

Painting requires a different approach. You’ll need to choose the right type of paint for your boat and make sure you apply it evenly. If you’re painting a large area, you may want to consider using a paint sprayer to achieve a smooth, even finish. Once the paint has dried, you can apply a clear coat to protect the paint and give it a glossy finish.

In conclusion, applying the finishing touches to your wooden sailboat is an important step that requires careful attention to detail. By following these tips and using the right tools and materials, you can achieve a beautiful, long-lasting finish that will protect your boat and make it stand out on the water.

Safety Measures

When building a wooden sailboat, safety should always be your top priority. Here are some safety measures you should take to ensure a safe and successful build.

Installing Safety Equipment

Before you start building, make sure you have all the necessary safety equipment installed in your workshop. This includes fire extinguishers, smoke detectors, and first aid kits. You should also have a clear and unobstructed path to the exit in case of an emergency.

When working with power tools, always wear eye and ear protection, as well as a dust mask to protect your lungs. If you are using chemicals, make sure you are working in a well-ventilated area and wear gloves and a respirator if necessary.

Conducting a Safety Check

Before you start working on your sailboat, conduct a safety check to make sure everything is in order. Check that all tools and equipment are in good working order and that there are no loose or damaged parts. Make sure your work area is clean and free of clutter, and that all cords and cables are properly secured.

When working with wood, be aware of any knots or cracks in the wood that could weaken the structure of your sailboat. Use only high-quality marine-grade wood and be sure to follow the plans carefully to ensure a strong and safe boat.

By following these safety measures, you can ensure that your wooden sailboat build is a safe and enjoyable experience.

Maintaining Your Wooden Sailboat

Congratulations on building your own wooden sailboat! Now that you have a beautiful vessel, it’s important to keep it well-maintained to ensure its longevity and safety on the water.

Regular Maintenance

Regular maintenance is essential to keep your wooden sailboat in top condition. Here are some tips to keep in mind:

• Clean your boat regularly with a mild soap and water to prevent dirt and grime buildup.
• Check for any signs of damage, such as cracks, rot, or loose fittings, and address them promptly.
• Apply a fresh coat of varnish or paint every few years to protect the wood from the elements.
• Keep your boat covered when not in use to protect it from the sun and rain.

Seasonal Maintenance

In addition to regular maintenance, there are also some seasonal tasks that you should perform to keep your wooden sailboat in top condition:

• At the beginning of the season, inspect the hull for any damage or wear and make any necessary repairs.
• Check the rigging and sails to make sure they are in good condition and make any necessary repairs or replacements.
• Before storing your boat for the winter, make sure to properly winterize it to protect it from the cold and moisture.

Additional Tips

Here are some additional tips to keep in mind when maintaining your wooden sailboat:

• Use high-quality marine-grade products when cleaning and maintaining your boat.
• Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive materials that can damage the wood.
• Regularly check the bilge for any water buildup and pump it out as needed.
• Keep your boat well-ventilated to prevent moisture buildup and mold growth.

By following these tips, you can keep your wooden sailboat in top condition and enjoy many years of safe and fun sailing.

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how to's "building a wooden sailboat mast"

Discussion in ' Wooden Boat Building and Restoration ' started by fishweed , Nov 16, 2006 .

fishweed Junior Member

The lenght of the mast is appox 30 feet, it will go on a motorsailer, first, what type of wood, and are there any sites where I can look at some construction ideas? Mark  

Crag Cay Senior Member

Have a search on here and google for 'bird's mouth' mast construction. There are loads of sites that will tell you all the basics and people on here will be more than happy to fill in the details.  

timgoz Senior Member

The ultimate wood for masts and spars is Sitka Spruce. Check A.L. Condon. Good stuff is getting harder and harder to acquire. Like Crag Cay said, Google "wooden masts" & there should be alot of information. If you familerize yourself with the basics & differing construction techniques, you can direct more specific questions to the forum members. It will also give you better judgement when dealing with the info supplied by forum responses. A couple of good books on wooded boat contruction would be useful if they have sections on mast constrution. Take care. TGoz  

PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

There are a number of ways to skin a cat or stick as it may be. Sitka spruce is a well loved spar building material, prized for it's light weight and compression strength. Many masts have been constructed from this evergreen. It's particularly well suited to solid masts, but in my opinion, isn't the best material for larger masts or for use on cruisers. Because of it's status as pole building lumber, I've offended a bunch of traditionalists, but that's not such a new thing either. In racing boats, beachable and light weight craft, this wood makes at lot of sense. In heavier, larger, off shore vessels, it isn't my first choice in hollow mast material. A step by step guide will generally have to be purchased, but a good overview can be had from a number of previous threads on this forum. Use the search tool and some key words will be birdsmouth (as mentioned) spars, masts, etc.  

PAR, What would be your first choice(s) of wood for hollow mast construction? TGoz  

Eric Sponberg Senior Member

If you look at the structural properties of various woods (high strength and stiffness for light weight, known as specific strength and specific stiffness), three woods rise to the top--Port Orford Cedar, Douglas Fir, and Sitka Spruce. Sitka spruce is the generally favored one because of its light weight and plentiful supply. Port Orford Cedar is rare and hard to come by. Douglas Fir is quite acceptable. All these woods accept modern glues like epoxy quite readily. "Skene's Elements of Yacht Design" by Francis Kinney offers a whole chapter on the engineering of spars, particularly in wood. I am sure if you looked back through Woodenboat magazine you would find all manner of articles on spar design and construction. There may be other books on the subject which you can scan through at www.bluewaterweb.com . Eric  

A generic answer would be Douglas fur for a serious cruiser stick. A racer/cruiser should think about aluminum or other materials. If the yacht forces the use of wood and performance is desired, then Sitka.  

BOATMIK Deeply flawed human being

Eric W. Sponberg said: ↑ "Skene's Elements of Yacht Design" by Francis Kinney offers a whole chapter on the engineering of spars, particularly in wood. I am sure if you looked back through Woodenboat magazine you would find all manner of articles on spar design and construction. There may be other books on the subject which you can scan through at www.bluewaterweb.com . Eric Click to expand...

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fhrussell Boatbuilder

Here are some links to basic info.... it may be helpful....? http://www.everything2.com/index.pl?node_id=1400819 http://users2.ev1.net/~fshagan/mastm.htm ....and one of my favorites.... http://www.starclassics.org/Sliding_Gunter/Making-Of/making-of.html  

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How to knock up a mast from a lamp post

The first extruded aluminium mast was made in 1953, in England. Throughout the preceding centuries masts were made of wood or, latterly, of steel; and yet nowadays a wooden mast is considered suitable only for a traditional, gaff-rigged anachronism, and as for steel… Why would anybody build their masts of steel ? Then again – why wouldn’t they?

Sustainably farmed masts

Wood is good stuff. It’s wholesome; it’s biodegradable… and it grows on trees. Tall, straight trees of the right sort are ideal for conversion into a sail support, and if Mollymawk were a gaffer she would carry wooden masts. But she isn’t. A gaff mast is relatively short and the loads imposed on it by the low aspect sail are relatively small, but Molly ’s main mast supports a high-aspect bermudan sail and is 20 metres long (65ft). A solid wooden mast 20 metres long would weigh more than twice as much as an aluminium one suited to the same vessel, and this extra weight aloft would make the boat top-heavy and unstable.

To get round this problem, sailors of yore gave their racing yachts hollow masts. A hollow wooden mast is a work of art; it is not something that can be thrown together by a man wielding an axe and a chainsaw. It is also a labour of love to maintain; and it is not especially strong. If Nick were a shipwright, and skilled in the matter of working with chisel and plane, then Mollymawk might, perhaps, have hollow wooden masts… but he isn’t; his genius is as a mechanical engineer. Thus it was that when we wanted a pair of cheap masts our attention turned to steel.

Why is that you don’t tend to come across yachts with steel masts? To put it another way – what’s so good about aluminium?

It’s ideal for building aeroplanes but…

Aluminium is funny stuff. It is never found in isolation but is, nevertheless, the third most common element after oxygen and silicon.  The extraction of the metal from the ore in which it is bound requires so much heat that the Aluminium Age did not arise until the late years of the 19th century. The manufacturing process was so costly, in these early days, that the metal was as expensive as silver and its principal use was as an ornament. (If cowpats cost an arm and a leg then I suppose we would all aspire to walk around with lumps of dung encircling our wrists…)

Scientists had devoted much time, in the preceding century, to trying to get at the elusive mineral and rumours of its potential had been spread abroad. It is said that when Napoleon first got wind of the likely invention he was thrilled. If his soldiers’ muskets were made of this light-weight stuff then they would be able to march twice as far and twice as fast! I guess every new piece of technology is greeted in this way, with the self-congratulatory claims of scientists being enthusiastically applauded by an uncomprehending populace and eagerly grasped by power-hungry politicians and by others who can use them for their own personal gain. I guess that’s why we have sliced white bread, fondue sets, Teasmaids, and nuclear power stations.

It’s light; it’s strong; it’s GREAT for making shiny paint!

Fortunately for the world, Boney’s dream was pie in the sky. Aluminium is not the answer to man’s prayer for the perfect, problem-free metal:

Aluminium is three times lighter than steel, but in order to match the strength of steel it needs to be three times as thick; thus, the emperor would have been back where he started. Aluminium possesses great initial strength, but it is actually quite brittle. If a piece of steel is continually flexed in the same place it will break – but not for a very long time. A piece of aluminium continually flexed in the same way will break fairly quickly. Think about it: you can easily bend, flex, and break an empty aluminium beer can, but it is almost impossible to tear apart an empty steel baked-bean can. This is one reason why aluminium booms break (fairly frequently) at the place where the kicking strap attaches. It is also the reason why aluminium masts generally break at the hounds or in the middle of the lower panel, where pumping and flexing are at their maximum. Such breakages are often exacerbated by electrolytic corrosion – which brings us on to the next little drawback: aluminium is fairly low on the Scale of Nobility.

Aluminium doesn’t rust, but if you park it alongside a more “noble” metal and you get the two of them wet and salty, then the aluminium will be degraded. In effect, you will have set up a battery. The seawater will serve as a conductor and your aluminium cleat or spar will gradually be deposited on the stainless steel fastenings. Moor your aluminium boat in a marina and it will be in danger of depositing itself on the steel supports for the jetty.

As I see it, aluminium really is the best thing since sliced white bread…

In our experience…

When we capsized our ketch, every aluminium fitting with the exception of the booms was broken; and the only reason that the booms were not broken is that they were not in use. The wind was somewhere in the high sixties or the early seventies, and so we were sailing under storm jib alone.

Every other aluminium fixture besides the booms was destroyed when the boat went over. The sea snapped or tore out every aluminium deck fitting. It trashed and removed virtually all trace of the aluminium-framed sprayhood (dodger). It broke the meaty-beaty aluminium cleats and fairleads. It buckled the aluminium track which held the companionway hatchboards in place. Most significantly of all, it broke both of the masts.

The mizzen mast was folded in half at the hounds and then lopped off at the top of the tabernacle. The main mast was broken in three. None of the rigging failed. Every stainless steel stay and every bottlescrew (turnbuckle) was still in place when the boat came up again. Compression alone was responsible for the damage. Would wooden masts have been snapped by the wave? Hollow ones probably would have been, but not solid ones, I think.

Would steel masts have buckled?

Man of steel gets to work

The main argument against the use of steel masts is that steel is heavy. But, as we have seen, steel is also three times stronger than aluminium. In theory, we could have fitted our new boat with a main mast which weighed much the same as a suitable aluminium spar but which had a very much smaller section. A smaller section has less windage and causes less disruption to the air flowing over the mainsail. A big section can make as much as a third of the sail wholly ineffective upwind. When push came to shove, however, such a mast would probably not be up to the job. A narrow tube with a fairly thick wall is not so resistant to compression as a fatter one with relatively thin walls. So – how about a relatively fat tube with thin walls…?

Erring on the side of caution and safety, Nick preferred to provide Mollymawk with masts of a reasonably broad section with reasonably thick walls. The result was a design for a main mast which would be somewhat heavier but also much stronger than its aluminium counterpart. To be exact, our main mast weighs in at 728 lbs (330 kg), making it about 30% heavier than a suitable aluminium spar.

At first glance this 30% weight gain looks extreme, but in fact the weight of a rig is not only derived from the masts; one also has to take into account the rigging wire. When this was added into the equation Nick discovered that the total weight of the rig was actually only 15% heavier than it would be if we used a conventional aluminium extrusion. For what it is worth, the mast on its own weighs almost exactly the same as the solid wooden main mast of a 42ft gaff-rigged Colin Archer. And a sealed steel tube is more buoyant than a wooden pole of the same weight.

Having decided upon a suitable size for the mast, the designer then had to invent the various fittings which would aid in its support. Rigging tangs, hounds, and spreaders – these all must be able to cope with the considerable forces subjected by a wind-filled sail. In view of our recent experience in the Southern Ocean, we were keen to make sure that they were ultra-super-strong, and so – again – Nick erred on the side of extra metal and of safety in numbers.

One of our main criteria was that no one piece of wire must be crucial. Rigging failures are an all too frequent occurrence, stainless steel being more prone than is widely realised to near-invisible, interior corrosion. Already, since the launch of the boat, we have had three occasions on which to be glad of this precaution. (More on this subject in a moment.)

So, did we really lop down a couple of lamp posts while no one was looking? No. Alas, the lamp posts in the vicinity where we built our boat were made of concrete. More to the point, steel lamp posts are generally round, whereas the ideal shape for a mast is a round-fronted but flat-sided section.

When he designed the masts Nick fondly imagined that we would simply buy a length of suitably sized tube and have it squashed. As it turned out, however, the size of pipe which we needed was not available. Nor would it have been possible to have it crushed – except in a most haphazard manner…

The starting point for our masts was a pile of flat steel plate.

Make your own steel main mast

You will need:

• Two or three sheets of 3mm steel
• One or two sheets of 4mm steel
• Numerous welding rods

Cut the steel plate into suitably sized pieces and place them, one at a time, in a ruddy great plate-bending machine. (Ask a technician to help you.) Wallop the plates hard until a dent of the appropriate angle is created. Then move the plate around and do it again; and again; and again. In the fullness of time, and after much noise, the pieces of plate will have been converted into U-shaped gutters. Take the gutters and carefully weld them together, staggering the pattern so that each horizontal join abuts onto the middle of the opposing gutter.

Here’s one that I made earlier.

It was unfortunate that the manufacture of the main mast coincided with the sandblasting of the hull. We would have much preferred for it to occur when that great undertaking was well astern, but the negotiation of a discount price with the firm who owned the plate bender had involved agreeing to their timescale. Since they were just about to go broke they wanted to get on with the work straight away.

Nick could scarcely give his full attention to both projects, and so it is hardly surprising that a few minor mistakes were made. The gooseneck, for example, was attached 3 ft (1 m) higher than it was supposed to be…

We had intended to have the gutters hot-dip galvanised before they were welded together, but in the rush and confusion this, too, was overlooked. We did remember to do it while making the mizzen.

Nick fetched the main mast home on a dinghy trailer… (therein hangs a tale) – and the finishing touches were applied in the paddock, alongside the boat.  Another, very long story might be told concerning the means and manner whereby the mast was raised aloft, after the launch… but it will keep for another day.

Socket to me!

When first installed the mast was supported only by ropes. Ropes are almost sufficient to support a gaffer’s mast… but they won’t do for bermudan rig. Before we could go anywhere we needed to replace those guy-lines with heavy-duty stainless steel rigging wire. Fortunately we had some to hand… (I’ll tell you about it some other time) – and we also had a fine collection of hand-made rigging terminals and bottlescrews (turnbuckles, in American-speak). These fittings were not Yachts-and-Yachting affairs. In their previous life they had helped to support a circus tent, of sorts. The rigging wire was not held inside the terminals by swaging, or by any kind of funky metal cones; it was glued there. Hmmm….

Well, that glue had held the tent up; and the same type of glue is used to fasten the hook onto the end of a crane’s cable. It’s called Socketfast , and it’s a kind of non-shrink epoxy. We reckoned that if it was good enough for the pros then it was probably good enough for the likes of us. And so it has been.

The only piece of rigging wire which is not fitted with one of these home-made, glued-on terminals is the stay which supports the roller furling genoa. Because it needs to be capable of easy removal we fitted this wire with a Norseman of the appropriate size – and this is the only terminal which has ever failed… thus far, touch wood, fingers crossed etc etc.

This stay has failed three times – twice due to the breakage of the Norseman and once when the bottlescrew unthreaded. (That’s another long story…) Happily, Mollymawk is equipped with twin forestays. That numero uno criteria, of no single stay being vital, may have saved the mast from falling. In any event, it certainly saved it from being unfairly stressed.

We’re very pleased with Mollymawk’s DIY steel masts – and, indeed, with the rig as a whole. Like pretty much everything else on the boat – from the steering system, to the engine transmission, to the sail plan – it was designed by our celebrated, distinguished, and eminent skipper. If anybody out there wants to commission the design of anything similar, for their own boat, he would be very happy to hear from them. Just drop us a line using the contact form .

The full story of Mollymawk ’s construction is told in How NOT to Build a Boat .

Related Articles

I would be very interested to know what you did for a sailtrack. Bolting one on as you might with aluminium or wood is surely inviting hidden corrosion…?

Also, have you had any corrosion problems with the masts in general?

Hullo Matthew.

We bought some metal “channel” – the kind of stuff intended as a wiring conduit – and welded that onto the masts. The sail-track is aluminium and it is riveted onto the channel. Another possibility would have been to use stainless sail-track and weld it straight onto the masts. Using the channel we killed two birds, so to speak, because it IS actually also used as a conduit for the wiring (for the nav lights, wind generator, etc).

We’ve not had any serious problems. As I think I’ve mentioned in the article, we have had a problem with the main mast track coming away from the channel. This was partly because we used aluminium rivets – (we couldn’t get monel ones) – and partly because our very powerful fully battened mainsail was supplied with an insufficient number of slides. We’ve now re-riveted the track (and again, we couldn’t get monel rivets…) and we’ve doubled the number of slides. This seems to have solved the problem. As for corrosion – There is some corrosion on the mast steps and on the welds affixing them to the masts. After twelve years that’s not surprising… but if we were doing it again we would use stainless for the steps.

All in all, we’re very satisfied with the design and construction of the masts. In fact, I would say that they’re the most successful part of the entire project. There – now that I’ve said that they’ll probably fall down…..

Thanks for answering my question. The channel/aluminium track sounds like a really neat solution, and as you say also solves the problem of a wire conduit. Is the channel stainless steel…? It’s good to hear that corrosion hasn’t been as bad as I would have expected, there is a lot of misinformation out there about mild steel in boats, mainly from people who have never used it!

It’s nice to see someone challenging the status quo of spending vast amounts of money on ‘yachtie’ equipment. As a simple sailing enthusiast I like the idea of being able to fabricate my own masts on a budget from basic materials… production by the masses rather than mass production and all that!

The channel is mild steel, but we had it galvanised. If we’d known how successful galvanising would be we’d have galvanised a few more bits and pieces of the boat!

As you say, we like to challenge the idea that boat equipment has to be shiny and expensive and must come from a pukkha manufacturer. A friend once told us a nice story about Robin Knox Johnson. They were sailing some kind of fancy racing machine and the fancy hydraulic preventer broke. “Damn!” said our pal (who was the skipper, and the only paid crew member). “We’ll have to drop the main, I suppose.” “Rot!” said RKJ. “When I was a lad we used to use an old dog-end of rope for that job.”

Fantastic website! I am looking to make a three masted 49′ foot bald gaff rigged trimaran. And DIY is the route i’m going with plenty of redundancy. Weight is evil to a multihuler, but your information on building with steel is very intriguing. Steel is heavy, but forgiving and strong! I will order your book once I figure out how… Sincerely, Ken San Diego CA

Jill, How is the Socketfast holding up? Any trouble with fittings or wires coming loose? Thank, Kevin

Sorry, missed this comment… The Socketfast is fine after 16 years; we haven’t had any trouble at all. (We have replaced a few shrouds which were starting to show their age, but the Socketfast was fine.)

Brilliant article I am all over the place and I get ideas from lots of different countries. So here goes and this is the idea you have given me. I have the boat that inspired the TV series Howards Way a Galion 22. I want to sail her in the Jester cup and I hate Bermuda rigs and stayed masts so I am going to have a shorter mast and a dipping lug rig keel mounted. So the ideal thing would be dirt cheap and strong. well the answer is glue laminated bamboo. The problem it is not very rot resistant. Solution put it in a stainless steel tube. So what you end up with is a sort of big fat pencil inside a big wide thin walled straw. I’m on it watch my YouTube channel “Where’s David-Paul?”

Just a thought even unlaminated bamboo is immensely strong. You are looking at 2.5 times the strength of wood weight for weight.

Just had a look at the cost of stainless steel doable but expensive. So to go back to my previous comment dispense with the previous comment and replace the stainless steel tube with a PVC water pipe. There are no attachments with a dipping lug rig and the tube doesn’t have to carry a load. Choose black a cool colour and more UV resistant. I am having black sails so this should look good. I just have to find some bamboo now.

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How to Build a Wood Sailboat

Introduction: How to Build a Wood Sailboat

I've been wanting to combine my two favorite hobbies - woodworking and sailing for a long time, so I thought I'd build a boat. It's got classic lines and looks so dazzling in the sunshine that people constantly stop me at the boat ramp to ask me about it. There's something unbelievably rewarding about building something like this from scratch. This is definitely a boat that is much better built than bought . Here's how I did it.

The boat takes about 100 hours to build. I did it over 3 months, working a little bit just about every day and full days when my schedule permitted.

It will take about $1,000 in total to build if you buy everything at full retail cost (not including tools you might need to buy), but you can spread that across the length of the project. For example, you only need to buy one $30 sheet of plywood at a time, take it home, draw out the parts (loft) that fit on just that sheet and cut them out. That will take a couple of hours right there. Some boating supply stores (chandleries) might let you setup an account which might give you a discount if you tell them you're building a boat.

All of the skills needed to build a sailboat can be learned slowly, one step at a time. For example, if you've never fiber-glassed plywood before, just practice on a small piece first to get your confidence up. This was my first boat build, so I did a lot of learn as you go . Not only am I going to show you the right way to successfully build your own sailboat, but I'm going to share with you the mistakes I made along the way to hopefully save you from repeating them.

The end result will be a very attractive little 8 foot long pram, that is easily made out of 4x8 sheets of plywood that is light enough to put in the back of a small pickup truck or roll down to the local lake on the optional dolly. Anything longer would require you to either make a scarf joint (which is a bit tricky) or buy longer sheets of plywood (which is considerably more expensive).

What you will need:

Boat building plans

8 panels of 1/4" oak plywood 4'x8'

Pencil, Sharpie, ruler, tape measure, yard stick, etc.

Long flexible straight edge

Box of 1" brad nails

2 gallons of epoxy resin

1 gallon of epoxy hardener - SLOW

1 quart silica thickener

5 quarts wood flour thickener

1" masking tape

Japanese pull-saw

Table saw (helps, but optional)

Round-over router bit

Flush trim router bit

Palm/random orbital sander

220 sanding discs

Combination square

Drill bit set

Drill bit extension

Basic hand tools

Small diameter wire or zip ties

Wire cutter

12 C-clamps - 3"

Mixing cups, mixing sticks, rubber/nitrile gloves

16' x 60" of 6oz fiberglass cloth

2" plastic spreader

Gallon of waterproof glue

Glue roller

Silicone bronze screws

Stainless steel fasteners

Small blocks

Gudgeon & pintle - dinghy size

Patience - large

Elbow grease - large

For more detailed explanations on each step and more specific info/reviews on the materials and parts used, check out my boat build blog: www.Midnight-Maker.com

Step 1: Cutting Out the Parts...

First, you'll need boat building plans. I purchased some very nice ones from a popular boat building website because I had a specific style in mind to build, a "pram". It's a Norwegian design with lots of buoyancy in the bow and building a pointy boat is a little more difficult. There are a bunch of free boat building plans (search "dinghy") online. Also, I wanted my boat parts to fit in a standard (read cheap) 4'x8' sheet of plywood. It also had to be light enough for me to load/unload/move myself. This boat weighs in at about 70 pounds. When on the custom dolly I built, it's very easy to move from the parking lot to the lake.

Next, you'll need to draw out the parts of the boat full-sized onto the plywood (lofting). I actually did this step on hardboard/masonite because I wanted to make templates of all the parts in case I ever wanted to build another one.

This step requires you to be very meticulous. Carefully transfer the measurements (offsets). They may or may not look correct because it's very non-intuitive to look at curved boat parts that are laying flat. Some parts actually bend the opposite way you think they should. To make the curves, I nailed a bunch of 1" brads into the panel and used a long, flexible straight edge (yard stick, etc.) bent to follow the curve, then I traced the curve with pencil/Sharpie. Once I removed the brads, I had perfectly smooth curves. Keep in mind that with the side panels that are symmetrical to both sides of the boat, only draw out one version and cut two stacked sheets at a time. This ensures the boat will not be lop-sided. Make sure to immobilize the two sheets together with screws outside of the boat parts or use double-sided tape/clamps, etc. to keep the parts registered properly.

Using a Japanese pull-saw allows you to control the cuts very carefully and it can follow the graceful curves. They cut on the pull stroke which means they're very easy to control. Make sure you leave a bit of your cut line, meaning cut just outside the line. This allows you a bit of a safety margin and you can always sand to the line to sweeten it up. This is where the elbow grease really kicks in. It takes hours to cut out the hull panels by hand, but it's worth it. I tried cutting the first part out with the jigsaw and it wandered all over the place and quickly cut inside the line before I knew it. Also, a jig saw blade can lean to one side which could mean two panels might not be the exact same shape. Using hand tools is a classic way to do woodworking and is a very gratifying process. With hand tools, things happen slow enough for you to be in total control, whereas power tools can quickly do unexpected damage. With the understanding that you're building a classic boat, using hand tools wherever possible is part of the philosophy.

The plans I bought were in metric and called for 6mm (1/4") and 9mm (3/8") plywood, but I wanted to make everything out of 1/4" plywood so the thicker parts in the plans were glued together with two layers of 1/4" (so at 1/2" they were a bit thicker than designed). I actually liked this because it made the boat feel sturdier and of course it was cheaper that way. The trade-off was that the boat would be a bit heavier.

For any of the parts that need to be doubled-up/laminated (e.g. the transoms), now is a good time to do that. Make sure you use "waterproof" glue instead of "weatherproof" glue like I did...

Spread a thin layer of glue over one of the "bad" sides (plywood usually has a good side and a bad side, glue bad sides together so good sides show on both outside faces), making sure it's completely covered (I used a special glue roller), then carefully place the other half on top. Align all of the edges together, then clamp them in place. Now put heavy things carefully on top to press the parts together. The glue should be dry in about 6 hours.

NOTE: It's considerably easier and safer to do any woodworking processes to the parts before you assemble the boat. This way, you can safely clamp pieces to the work bench and cut out handle holes, etc. Since my boat is a "lapstrake" design, I had to route a rabbet (groove located on the edge) carefully on the bottom edge of each side panel. This creates a shoulder for the parts to sit on, positively locating them while you're stitching the panels together. Likewise, the grab handles in the transoms are much easier to cut out before putting the boat together.

Also keep in mind that any mistake will be considerably more painful the further you are along in the build. For example, if I biff cutting out the grab handle holes while they're just loose pieces rather than when they're a permanent part of the boat, it's much easier to recover - just make another transom. If you had to patch a hole in the boat, it would be difficult and possibly never look perfect. No pressure...

Step 2: Assembling the Hull...

Once you have the bottom and sides cut out, you can start to "stitch and glue" the hull together. This is a technique used usually for smaller boats to be able to pull the hull form together without the need to build a frame or mold (which can take almost as long and as much wood as the boat itself).

I built a gauge stick to make sure my holes were perfectly spaced at 4" at 1/2" in from the plywood edge. It was 1" wide so either edge was the required 1/2" from the centerline. I worked my way down one side of each of each mated seam and drilled all those holes at once while the panels could lay flat on the bench. Make sure to use a backer block to prevent tear out on the back side, even with such a small drill bit.

With one mating panel drilled with a 1/16" drill bit, hold the mating panel in it's relative position. I used some spare twine to wrangle my panels into the proper orientation as I was marking them. Make a pencil mark where the mating hole should be, remove the pre-drilled panel and drill the second set of holes 1/2" in from the edge. This makes sure there's enough strength to hold the boat together.

The first pass on the stitches is just to get the hull together structurally. You can always go back and make the stitches fancier/tighter and tweak the position of the panels.

The stitches go from the inside out. Cut 6" lengths of wire and bend them into long, narrow U's that are the width of the distance between the holes. Stick the ends through the holes and carefully twist the tails together on the outside of the hull, making sure not to damage the plywood. If you're using zip ties, then the holes you drill will need to be bigger and you'll have to start on the outside, go in, turn around, then back out, then "zip".

Make sure your panels' rabbet shoulders are resting securely on the mating panel and carefully tighten all the stitches. For my boat, once I had two panels stitched to the bottom panel on each side, it was time to attach the transoms (ends). Once all of the exterior parts are stitched together, you should have something that looks like a boat. It will be a little rickety at this stage, but that's okay.

NOTE: In the photos I took of my build, you'll notice that the transom doublers (reinforcers) aren't in place. That was because I was following the instruction manual, but I think that was a mistake, so I highly recommend laminating (gluing) the doublers to the transoms before you stitch the boat together.

Step 3: Reinforcing the Hull Joints...

Now that the hull is stitched together, flip it over upside down. You'll be surprised at how stiff it is, considering how difficult it was to wrangle all those panels into position. Be careful, there's lots of poky wire ends sticking out all over the place.

I used a technique called "tabbing", meaning I made small, structural tabs from thickened epoxy that fit between the stitches, then I removed the stitches and made one long, larger fillet to connect the hull panels together.

Make sure your panels are perfectly aligned and tightened. I used a nipper to lop off most of the tails so they wouldn't get in the way, but that left very sharp spikes.

Make sure your boat is square. Take diagonal measurements from corner to corner, make sure the boat parts are parallel to each other, etc. because if there's a twist in your boat, the next step will make it permanent, which will affect the boat's performance.

Now mix up a batch of epoxy and silica thickener according to the manufacturer's directions (meaning each type of epoxy has a different resin to hardener ratio) until it's between the consistency of thick ketchup, but runnier than peanut butter (make sure to mix the 2 parts of epoxy together first very well before adding a thickener). Too thick and it won't fill the void, too thin and it'll run down inside the boat. Both are bad. I used a small syringe to inject the mix into the V intersection between the panels and checked underneath/inside to see if there were any runs.

Once the epoxy has partially set, use a glove wet with denatured alcohol to smooth out the "tabs" so they fit inside the V groove and don't extend above the intersection between the panels. This will give you good practice for the seams that will show on the finished boat. Be careful of the wire spikes.

Repeat this process for every seam on the hull. Let it cure overnight.

Once the tabs have cured, carefully remove the stitches. If the wire seems to be epoxied permanently to the hull, heat the wire with a lighter. That will soften the epoxy enough to pull the wire out. Be careful not to scorch the boat (you don't want a Viking funeral). Now repeat the thickened epoxy process for each overlap, except this time each seam will need to be one long, smooth joint. Let it cure overnight. This goes a long way in making the boat hull structural.

Step 4: ​Fiberglassing the Hull...

Now that you've got a permanent hull shape, it's time to make it waterproof and rugged. Fiberglass and resin over plywood is a tried and true Do It Yourself boat building technique which makes it strong and light.

Mask off the bottom panel and roll out your fiberglass cloth. Smooth the cloth out very carefully so as not to snag or tweak the fibers' orientation. Mix up an unthickened batch of epoxy (it will be the consistency of syrup). Starting at the stern, pour a small puddle of epoxy and spread it out nice and thin. You should be able to squeeze most of the epoxy out of the cloth, leaving only saturated cloth with no dry spots (which will appear white) but the weave should still be showing (meaning no extra epoxy is pooling). You should easily be able to see the wood grain through the cloth now.

Let the epoxy partially cure and using a razor, slice the dry fiberglass cloth away on the taped seam. Then remove the masking tape. Let the epoxy cure overnight.

Flip the hull over and mix up a batch of epoxy that is the consistency of peanut butter. I masked off the joint, but this step is optional, but keep in mind that it will be visible if you plan on finishing the interior bright (varnished wood). It's not as critical if you're painting the interior. With a plastic spreader, carefully make a large radius transition (fillet) between the bottom panel and the first side panel (garboard). Remove the masking tape when the epoxy mixture is partially cured and carefully scrape/wipe any unwanted mixture. It's much easier to remove now than having to sand it all off later. At this point, it's also a good time to fillet the transoms to the sides using 3/4" radius tabs between stitches and 1" finished fillets after you've removed the stitches. Let the fillets cure overnight.

Now, repeat the entire fiberglassing process on the inside. Except instead of just doing the bottom panel, make sure both the bottom and the garboard are fiberglassed. This is basically the waterline of the boat. The fillet should allow the fiberglass cloth to smoothly make the bend between boards. Remove the excess cloth when partially cured and let sit overnight. Some people fiberglass up onto the transom at this stage which will make the boat stronger, but that means you have to have already filleted the transoms to the bottom.

Step 5: Installing Interior Parts...

The bulkheads get stitched in place just like the panels. They will make the already stiff (and much heavier boat) completely structurally sound and push/pull the sides into their final shape. Then make 3/4" "tab" fillets between the stitches to lock them in place, remove the stitches and make long, smooth 1" fillets. The smaller fillets will get covered by the larger fillets. I used two different modified plastic spreaders to do this step. Each spreader was cut with a box knife and filed/sanded into its final shape.

While you're doing the previous steps, if you're in a time crunch, go ahead and build the daggerboard trunk. It's made of numerous parts that are pre-coated with a couple layers of unthickened epoxy, then glued together with silica-thickened epoxy. This makes it strong and waterproof as it will be below the waterline so must be completely waterproof.

The daggerboard trunk is the most important part of the boat, especially if you're making a sailboat version (this boat can easily just be used as a rowboat). Not only does it support the center seat (thwart), but it has to transfer all of the force from the sail to the water and if you run the boat aground, it takes all the shock loading from the daggerboard.

The daggerboard gets filleted into place like everything else. Make sure it's perfectly on the centerline of the boat as that will affect its sailing characteristics.

Next, let's make the daggerboard slot in the center thwart. I set up a straight edge with a spiral upcutting router bit. Make sure to enlarge the slots at the end of the center thwart so that it can fit around the fillets of the center bulkhead. Now is the time to ease the edges of the center thwart because you'll be sitting on it a lot, so it needs to be comfortable. Because it's so thin, I only routed the top edge of the center thwart that shows and just hand sanded the edge underneath (it's very problematic to use a round-over bit on the second side of a thin board). Paint all of the thwarts with three coats of unthickened epoxy, especially the undersides. Once the woodworking is done, the thwart can be epoxied into place with peanut butter (or you can jump to cutting the daggerboard slot in the bottom of the hull). Make sure the thwart fits snugly in place. Drop dollops of peanut butter on the top edges of the center bulkhead and daggerboard case and spread it out evenly (make sure none gets inside the slot to interfere with the daggerboard). Firmly seat the thwart (pun intended) into the goop and weight it down. Let it cure overnight.

While you've making sawdust, cut out the mast hole (partner) in the forward thwart by drilling holes in the four corners (for the square mast we're going to make), then cut out the sides, file it smooth, then round over the top edge with the router.

Any time after the bulkhead thwart fillets have cured, you can seal the airtank chambers. Paint the bottom, sides, inside of the bulkhead and transom up to the level where the thwart will be.

Step 6: Rail & Sailboat Parts...

There are several processes in this boat building instructable that can be done concurrently. While you're waiting for the epoxy on one part to cure, you can be doing woodworking or epoxying another part. This step illustrates that point. While you're waiting for the epoxy on the rub rail (outwale) to cure, you can be fabricating the sailboat accessories (e.g. daggerboard, rudder, tiller, spars, etc.).

In order for the outwale to be thick/strong enough to be effective, you'll need to laminate it in two strips on each side. You can't bend a single piece that thick around the curvature of the hull without either breaking the wood or softening it by steaming it which is a complicated process.

Take a strip that's half the final thickness and a little longer than the boat edge (I made mine a bit beefier), mix up some peanut butter with the colloidal silica and carefully spread it on the inside of the strip. Starting at the stern, clamp it in place, perfectly align it with the top edge of the plywood. Now you have a long, springy lever to bend the wood strip along the compound curve. It dips both vertically (shear), and bows out at the widest part of the boat (beam), then back in toward the bow. At least every foot, clamp it as you go, moving forward. More is better. Toward the bow, the strip will get stiffer as it gets shorter. Once clamped in place, scrape/wipe off all the squeeze-out. It's much easier to remove now than after it hardens. Let it sit overnight. You'll have to repeat this three more times, meaning this step takes four days (if you're using "slow" epoxy hardener).

During those four days that you're dealing with the outwale, you can make major progress on the sailboat parts. They're completely separate from the hull. If you're just making a rowboat, then you can skip making these parts.

The daggerboard and rudder are cut out and laminated. Then a bevel is ground onto the leading and trailing edges to make it slice through the water more efficiently. Then they're covered in layers of epoxy. The mast step is assembled. This has to be very strong because all of the force of the sail is transmitted to the boat through the mast step and the mast is a very long lever arm. The rudder cheek plates and tiller also have to be assembled similarly to the daggerboard case.

NOTE: Whenever there's a hole to be drilled into any part of the boat, you must take additional steps to make sure the water doesn't penetrate and damage the wood. The correct procedure is to drill an over-sized hole, completely fill that hole with epoxy (I usually put a piece of masking tape on the back side to act as a dam), then once the epoxy cures, re-drill in the center of the epoxy plug the correct hole size. That makes each hole in the boat possibly a 2 day process, so plan accordingly. You can also use 5 minute epoxy to knock out a bunch of holes quickly, but be careful, they're not kidding. This stuff gets rock hard very quickly and will permanently glue anything touching. This is exactly how you drill the hole for the pivot point for the rudder/cheek plate assembly. If the pin is 1/4", then drill 1/2" hole and fill that with epoxy. Now the 1/4" hole will fit nicely in the center and be completely waterproof.

Since all the parts need several coats of unthickened epoxy and they just about all have holes in them, I hung them up with some twine and painted them on all sides, one layer at a time, for several days. Make sure the rudder doesn't get too thick to fit inside the cheek plates.

Step 7: Making the Spars...

More sailboat parts you can make while waiting for other parts to cure are the spars, the structural parts that support the sail. The mast is another glue up. I used 3 - 1x3's of hemlock. A relatively soft wood, but with a nice tight grain with no knots. A mast would break at a knot, regardless of how strong the wood is. Using the waterproof glue, align the pieces as perfectly as you can then clamp up the assembly and let dry overnight. Then run it through a table saw to get the final dimensions. Use a router and a round-over bit to ease the edges. Cut to length and sand the sharp corners. It should fit easily, but snugly into the forward thwart.

The boom (bottom of sail) is a little more complicated. Cut out the gooseneck (boom pivot point) by using a hole saw first, making sure to clamp it securely to the workbench, then cut out the profile. This gets attached to another piece of 1x3 hemlock, after it's been cut to length and the edges have been rounded over.

The yard (top of sail) is easy. Just cut to length and round over the edges. Drill and fill any holes in the spars at this time. You'll need at least one hole on each end to lash the sail grommets to.

This time, everything gets covered with several coats of varnish, epoxy is not necessary. The varnish protects the wood from water and UV damage.

The reason we had to make at least the mast at this point is because we'll need it in the next step to establish the location of the mast step.

Step 8: Finishing Up the Interior & Exterior...

Once the outwales are successfully attached, trim them flush with the face of the transom(s). While you're at it, use a flush cut saw (with no sawtooth offset to mar the wood) to trim the sides flush with the transom. This will show you how well your injected silica mix worked earlier. Now you're ready to install the mast step.

The mast step must be precisely located on the floor (sole) of the boat to give the mast the proper angle (rake). This is very important because it directly affects the boat's ability to sail upwind. Using your mast, insert it into the forward thwart (partner) and into the mast step. With the mast at a 3° angle (mostly vertical but with a small, yet noticeable and graceful tilt toward the stern of the boat), trace the location of the mast step. Use a combination square to make sure it's perfectly aligned side to side (athwartship). You can now set the mast aside. Drill and fill holes in the bottom of the boat so that you can securely screw the mast step from the outside of the hull. The mast base must also be epoxied to the sole with peanut butter. After it's screwed into place but before the epoxy cures, make sure to test fit the mast again and verify the rake angle is correct. It would be a little messy at this point if you had to tweak it, but at least you wouldn't have to cut it off.

Now comes the most unpleasant part of the whole build. On your hands and knees, make a 1" radius fillet on the underside of every part in the boat. I didn't worry about making these pretty, just structural and water tight (these create the flotation tanks that keep the boat from sinking if you capsize). Let that cure overnight.

Next is the scariest part of the build, making the slot in the hull for the daggerboard. Using a drill bit extension, from the inside of the boat, reach down through the daggerboard case and drill a hole at each end of the slot through the bottom of the boat (make sure to use a backer board). Drill a couple holes in between, then take a jigsaw and connect the dots. This weakens the hull enough so that the router won't tear out any extra wood. Note, this step can easily be done prior to affixing the center thwart. Using a flush trim/laminate router bit, let the bearing run around the inside of the daggerboard case. This will make the hole in the hull perfectly match the slot. This is important because you don't want a shoulder on the inside for the daggerboard to hit and you don't want to damage the waterproof lining of the case. Last, ease the sharp edge of the daggerboard slot with the router and a small radius round-over bit.

The skeg must be cut to fit the curve of the hull (rocker), then using silicone bronze screws, attach it to the hull using the same drill and fill/peanut butter techniques. Make sure to snap a chalk line on the centerline of the boat for reference. Then make a 1" fillet where it meets the hull which will support the skeg and make it strong. The skeg keeps the boat tracking straight in the water. I optionally used some fiberglass cloth to cover the skeg and overlap onto the bottom to make the entire assembly stronger and more waterproof. The skeg will take the brunt of the abuse when launching, beaching, loading and unloading, etc. I also installed a stainless steel rubstrake on the aft end of the skeg with this in mind. In wooden boat building, silicone bronze screws are often used because they won't corrode when encapsulated like stainless steel screws can.

Install the skids parallel to the skeg. These are solid pieces of hardwood because they will also take a lot of abuse when the boat is sitting on shore, protecting the thin hull from rocks, etc. They get installed the same way as the skeg, although it's a little tough to bend the wood along the rocker. Scrape off the excess peanut butter once they're screwed in place.

I also installed the optional outboard motor pad at this point because I plan to use an electric trolling motor on the back to quietly putter around the lake in the evenings to relax with the family after work.

That should be the last parts that go into making the boat!

Step 9: Finishing the Hull...

Now comes the last dash to the finish line. One of the more tedious steps is that you now have to sand the entire boat. I actually built the entire boat inside, but for the sanding stage, I took her outside. Several hours of sanding all of the fillets nice and smooth. Everything will show in the finished product whether you paint the boat or leave it "bright" (unpainted). If you've been careful about cleaning up the peanut butter as you go, you should be able to sand the boat with mostly 220 grit. Be careful not to sand through the thin veneer of the plywood. After the sanding is done (make sure to use a dust mask), vacuum the entire boat and then wipe it down with a tack cloth to remove any dust. I also reversed the hose on the shop vac and used it to blow the sawdust off since I was outside.

Next, you must coat the entire interior and exterior with 3-4 coats of unthickened epoxy. This makes the entire boat waterproof. It will also give you an idea of how beautiful the wood will look when varnished. This is why a lot of boat builders decide to leave their boats bright so the beauty of the wood shows through.

Mix up 1 cup batches of unthickened epoxy and pour out large puddles onto the surface. Taking a foam roller, distribute the epoxy in a smooth coat. Now take a wide foam brush and gently smooth (tip) the rolled out surface. This should remove any lap marks or bubbles. Move along to the next area, making sure to not touch the wet parts. Also, make sure no dust or bugs get on your finish or it'll mean even more sanding later.

Start with the exterior first. It'll be much easier to get good by practicing on the convex surfaces. The interior is more tricky because you want to prevent sags and pooling by only applying very thin coats.

Make sure to check with the manufacturer's directions during this step in case you have to deal with "blushing", a thin layer that can sometimes form on the surface of epoxy when it cures. This could cause your layers to not stick to each other. If your epoxy does blush, it's easy to just wipe the entire boat down with a rag soaked in acetone after each coat has cured. Some people sand between coats of epoxy. This is how you would make an extremely smooth/shiny finish, so if you want your boat to be museum quality, invest the effort. I'm planning on banging my boat around so opted out of an extreme, fancy, mirror finish.

I was originally going to paint the exterior of the hull, which would require priming and painting, but I'm leaving it bright for the time being. The good news is that you can always paint later if you change your mind, but if you paint it and change your mind, it's tough to go back. There aren't a lot of pics of this step, which took a couple of days because there wasn't much visible progress after that first coat went on. At this point, any surface that's not painted should be varnished using the same "roll and tip" method as the epoxy, with the optional sanding between coats. Note that epoxy has no UV resistance, so to keep your boat from getting sunburned, you must either paint or varnish every surface. Giving a boat a "museum quality" paint and/or varnish finish can literally take as long as building the boat.

Step 10: Making the Sail...

Another step you can do while other parts are curing is make the sail. This particular design uses a "lug" sail, a classic looking sail for small boats with wood masts. It increases the sail area (therefore the force generated by the wind) without it having to be as tall as a modern sailboat mast made of aluminum. There is a kit from an online sailmaking company that you can get for a reasonable price. The Dacron cloth panels are all cut out by a CNC machine, so they fit perfectly together. I used a regular, domestic sewing machine, not an industrial one. The only time I had trouble was when sewing through all 7 layers at the reinforcement patches. When I got to those parts, I had to manually push down on the foot of the sewing machine with a flat-bladed screwdriver (minus) to help push the needle through the Dacron. We jokingly call Philips head screwdrivers "plus".

The panels/parts all come labeled. The directions were a bit confusing because they suggest you make sub-assemblies after the fact to make wrangling the large sail easier but they mention it after you've already sewn the large panels together. It's important to understand what parts go together while the panels are still small and more manageable. For example, the batten pockets are tricky enough to build on a single panel, much less the finished sail. Building the sail was about as difficult for me as building the boat, but it was worth it.

The lug sail gets reinforcement patches on all four corners where you attach it to the spars (bend), and there's also a reefing point for when the wind starts to pick up (freshen). Modern sails have three corners (Marconi rig).

I opted for the less expensive white Dacron sail kit, but there's also a classic red (tanbark) colored kit that's $100 more expensive. Before I sewed a single stitch, I carefully traced every part of the sail kit onto painter's tarp poly film so I can always use the templates to build another sail, all I need to do is buy the tanbark cloth.

Step 11: Rigging Your Sailboat...

This seems to be the trickiest part for most people, probably because there are numerous ways it can be successfully rigged, depending on your experience, preferences or criteria. It's confusing because you have to know what the finished setup will look like in your mind while you're staring at a pile of ropes. I chose a setup that allows the most room in the cockpit for a full-sized adult, so the mainsheet is led forward of the skipper's position. This keeps the skipper's attention forward so they're looking where they're going. I have another boat where the mainsheet is behind the skipper and it takes some practice getting used to.

The lines I made up (rope becomes a line when you give it a job description) were the halyard (hauls the sail up), the mainsheet (adjusts the angle of the sail to the wind = trim) and a traveler bridle (where the mainsheet attaches to the boat). I got fancy and spliced all my ends, but you can just as well use a bowline knot.

I installed a cheek block at the top of the mast instead of the large diameter hole in the directions. I wanted the halyard to run as smoothly as possible when setting the sail. Then I installed a pair of cleats at the base of the mast, one for the halyard and one for the downhaul (cunningham). With both of these lines pulling in opposite directions, it locks the sail in place, flat, so it effectivley acts like a wing. The main halyard attaches to the gaff with a snap onto a padeye. This allows easy on/easy off when rigging at the boat ramp. I also used a small loop (parrel) around the mast and through the eye to keep the gaff located close to the mast. I looped the downhaul over the boom and down to the cleat to try to keep the gooseneck from twisting. Note, except for the blocks, just about all of the hardware used on rigging a boat this size can come in stainless steel or brass/bronze, depending on the look you're going for. If you plan on installing oarlocks to row the boat, this decision becomes even more important to the final look of the boat.

For the mainsheet, I made a short bridle between the handles on the transom with a small eye tied in the center. This allows a place for the snap on the end of the mainsheet to attach to. I could've just as easily allowed the snap to slide, which would give the bridle the function of a traveler, but would affect its pointing ability (sail upwind). The mainsheet is then run to a block on the end of the boom, then to another block in the middle of the boom. This leaves the main cockpit area unobstructed with running rigging. Make sure your mainsheet is long enough for your boom to swing forward of 90° to the boat, with enough to still come back to the cockpit for the skipper to control. A stop knot at the end of the mainsheet will keep the mainsheet from getting away from you and give you something to grip.

The rudder pivot hardware (gudgeons and pintles) must be installed perfectly vertical and on the exact centerline of the boat so that she will sail well. Drill and fill the necessary holes for this hardware. Be careful with the spacing. It's designed to be easily installed and uninstalled while underway.

With this particular rigging layout, when under sail, the skipper must constantly keep the mainsheet in hand, which is a good idea anyway for safety reasons (if you get hit by a gust of wind = puff, you won't get blown over = capsize). The tension on the mainsheet is easily manageable for any size skipper. On larger boats, the mainsheet is held by a fiddle block with a cam cleat, which is not necessary for a boat this size. With that being said, a possible future upgrade would be to install a block and a camcleat somewhere on the centerline of the boat so that more advanced sailors wouldn't need to constantly have to oppose the tension on the mainsheet. Of course the trade-off would be the hardware would probably be somewhere you might want to sit.

Another upgrade I figured out after actually taking her sailing would be to rig up a bungee/shock cord system that will hold the daggerboard both in an up and down position. With the current setup, the centerboard is held down by gravity and must be pulled out of the slot when beaching.

Step 12: Go SAILING!

Because I wanted to be able to go sailing by myself if needed, I made a dolly out of 2x4's and large pneumatic tires (which makes the dolly float). The dolly fits securely between the center and aft thwarts when driving out to the lake. The sides on the dolly lock against the skids on the bottom of the boat so it can't twist. Roll the sail up with the spars and wrap it with the main halyard. At the designed length, the mast doesn't fit inside the boat, but it seems a bit long, so some people have cut the mast down enough so that it fits inside the boat.

Out at the lake, unload the boat, slide the dolly underneath and you're ready to roll down to the ramp. At the launch, roll the boat out into the water until it floats off the dolly, toss the dolly off to the side out of everybody else's way. Drop the daggerboard into the slot and install the rudder assembly. Facing into the wind (important), stick the mast into the receiver hole (partner), tie off the downhaul (cunningham) and hoist the sail until the downhaul is tight, then cleat off the main halyard. Reave the mainsheet (run the line through the blocks) and you're ready to go sailing.

I've found that this boat sails very well. The lug sail makes it very easy to sail upwind (weather helm), it's a little more tender for a large adult, more so than a boat with a hard chine, like an El Toro/Optimist but it's a lot more graceful looking. The payload is very reasonable for a boat this size. My wife and son can easily (and safely) go sailing with me and I don't even need anyone's help to get it rigged and launched. All in all, this is one of the best projects I've every built. I hope you too can discover the joy of building your own boat and then take her sailing. Remember, in sailing, the wind is free, but nothing else is...

This is my very first Instructable after many years of referencing this excellent site to build numerous cool projects (you should see my next post). Anyway, I hope you enjoy it and please feel free to ask any questions you may have and I'll do my best to answer them. I'm planning on building a larger boat in the near future so stay tuned...

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The Ultimate Guide on How to Build a Sailboat – Step by Step Instructions and Expert Tips

Alex Morgan

Building a sailboat can be a rewarding and fulfilling project for those with a passion for sailing and craftsmanship. Whether you’re an experienced builder or a novice, constructing your own sailboat allows you to customize it to your specific needs and preferences. This comprehensive guide will take you through the step-by-step process of building a sailboat.

To start, gather the necessary tools and materials required for the construction. The specific tools needed may vary depending on the design and complexity of the sailboat. Basic tools such as measuring tape, saws, drills, and sandpaper are commonly used during the building process. specialized tools like a planer, router, and clamps may be required for more intricate details.

In terms of materials, you’ll need various types of wood for the hull, frames, and deck, as well as epoxy resin, fiberglass cloth, and marine-grade plywood. Other materials like stainless steel screws, bolts, and fittings will be needed for assembling and securing the different components of the sailboat.

Choosing the right sailboat design is a crucial step in the building process. Consider factors such as the intended use, sailing conditions, and your own level of experience. Factors like the boat’s size, stability, and performance characteristics should also be taken into account.

Before diving into the construction, it’s important to prepare a suitable building site. This includes having enough space to work on the boat, a clean and organized area, and proper ventilation. A sturdy workbench or support system is necessary for holding the boat’s components during assembly.

The hull of the sailboat is a fundamental part of the construction process. Follow a step-by-step process for constructing the sailboat hull, which involves shaping and assembling the frames, planking the hull with marine-grade plywood, and applying epoxy resin and fiberglass for added strength and durability.

Once the hull is completed, it’s time to install the sails and rigging. Properly attaching and rigging the sails is essential for optimal performance and maneuverability. This includes setting up the mast, boom, and other rigging components in accordance with the sailboat’s design specifications.

Next, focus on essential systems and finishing touches. Install electrical and plumbing systems as per your requirements, ensuring they are safe and efficient. Applying finishes and sealants to the boat’s exterior not only enhances its appearance but also protects it from the elements.

Before launching your sailboat, conduct safety checks to ensure everything is in proper working order. Inspect the hull, rigging, and other components for any potential issues. Once you have done all the necessary checks, follow tips for a successful sailboat launch, ensuring a smooth transition from construction to the open water.

By following this guide, you’ll be well-equipped to embark on the exciting journey of building your own sailboat. With careful planning, attention to detail, and patience, you’ll soon have a vessel that reflects your skills and passion for sailing.

Key takeaway:

• Building a sailboat maximizes creativity and adventure: Constructing your own sailboat allows you to embark on a unique and fulfilling journey while enabling you to express your creativity and personal style.
• Gathering the right tools and materials is crucial: Having the necessary tools and materials is essential for building a sailboat successfully. Ensure you have the appropriate tools and high-quality materials to construct a sturdy and reliable sailboat.
• Choosing the right sailboat design is vital: Consider various factors such as size, intended use, and sailing conditions when selecting a sailboat design. This will ensure you build a sailboat that meets your specific needs and provides optimal performance.

Gathering the Necessary Tools and Materials

In order to build a sailboat, the first step is to gather the necessary tools and materials.

• Start by researching the specific type of sailboat you want to build to determine the required tools and materials.
• Make a list of tools in good working condition, including a saw, hammer, drill, measuring tape, and screwdrivers.
• Create a material list that includes plywood, fiberglass, epoxy resin, screws, and nails . Calculate the quantities based on the sailboat plans.
• Find reliable suppliers and compare prices and quality for the materials.
• Set a budget for the project, taking into account the cost of both tools and materials.
• Plan the layout of your workspace for maximum efficiency and keep the tools and materials easily accessible and organized.

Throughout the building process, it is important to prioritize safety by wearing protective gear and following the guidelines for tool usage. If needed, seek assistance from experts or experienced builders. Building a sailboat may pose challenges but it is also a rewarding experience. So, enjoy the process and take satisfaction in creating something with your own hands.

What Tools Do You Need to Build a Sailboat?

To build a sailboat, you need the following tools:

1. Measuring tools: To accurately measure and mark dimensions, use a tape measure, ruler, and carpenter’s square.

2. Cutting tools: For cutting large pieces of wood, use a jigsaw or circular saw, and for intricate cuts, use a coping saw or handsaw.

3. Joinery tools: Assemble and join parts using a hammer, screwdriver, drills, and chisels.

4. Sanding tools: Smooth and shape wood surfaces using sandpaper or a power sander.

5. Clamping tools: Hold pieces together while working using clamps and a vise.

6. Safety equipment: Ensure your safety with gloves, safety glasses, and a dust mask.

In addition to these tools, you’ll need a well-ventilated workspace with a sturdy workbench. This is crucial for building a sailboat. It’s also advisable to have a set of plans or blueprints to guide you through the construction process.

True story:

I always dreamt of building my own sailboat, so I gathered the necessary tools and materials. With dedication and passion, I started constructing the hull, following the step-by-step process. It was challenging but rewarding. Installing the sails and rigging was exciting too. I could already envision the boat sailing on open water. After applying the finishing touches and conducting safety checks, it was time for the sailboat’s launch. With a mix of nerves and anticipation, I set the boat into the water. To my delight, it sailed smoothly, taking me on incredible adventures. Building a sailboat was a labor of love that fulfilled my lifelong dream of being a boat builder.

What Materials Are Required to Build a Sailboat?

Materials Required to Build a Sailboat:

– Marine plywood : Several sheets

– Fiberglass cloth : Sufficient length

– Epoxy resin : Recommended amount

– Hardwood lumber : Various sizes

– Stainless steel screws : Sufficient quantity

– Aluminum mast : Appropriate size

– Sails : Multiple types

– Rigging hardware : Various components

– Navigation lights : Required number

– Steering system : As per design

– Electrical wiring : According to needs

Pro-tip : When choosing materials for building a sailboat, select high-quality marine-grade materials suitable for the intended purpose and capable of withstanding the harsh marine environment.

Choosing the Right Sailboat Design

Choosing the perfect sailboat design sets the course for an unforgettable journey on the sea . Discover the key factors to consider in selecting the ideal sailboat design that suits your needs. Get ready to navigate through a sea of options and explore the world of sailboat aesthetics , performance , and practicality . So, prepare to steer your way into understanding the vital elements that influence the decision-making process when it comes to selecting the ultimate sailboat design .

Factors to Consider When Selecting a Sailboat Design

When selecting a sailboat design, there are several factors to consider. First and foremost is the intended use of the sailboat. You need to determine whether you plan to race , cruise , or day sail . It is important that the design aligns with your activities on the water.

Another crucial factor is the size of the sailboat. Consider your experience and crew when deciding on the sailboat size. Keep in mind that larger sailboats may require more crew members and expertise to handle.

It is essential to evaluate the stability of different sailboat designs. Factors such as keel type and hull shape can significantly impact the stability and seaworthiness of the sailboat.

Performance is another important consideration. Determine the level of performance you desire. Some designs prioritize speed and agility , while others focus on comfort and ease of handling .

Budget is also a significant factor to keep in mind. Take into account the price of owning and maintaining different sailboat designs, as well as ongoing expenses.

The construction material of the sailboat is yet another factor to consider. Options include fiberglass , wood , aluminum , and steel , each with its own advantages and considerations.

It is important to note that sailboats come in various designs, each with unique features catering to different sailing preferences and conditions.

Preparing the Building Site

When preparing the building site for a sailboat, follow these important steps:

1. Clear the area: Remove vegetation, debris, and obstructions to create a clean workspace.

2. Level the ground: Ensure the site is level and stable for a solid foundation.

3. Mark out the dimensions: Use measuring tools to accurately mark the sailboat’s length, width, and height on the ground.

4. Prepare the ground: Dig or fill the ground to create a smooth surface that meets the required dimensions.

5. Install boundary markers: Place stakes or markers around the perimeter of the building site to clearly define the boundaries and prevent encroachment.

6. Establish access points: Create pathways or access points to allow for easy movement of materials and equipment.

7. Ensure safety: Take necessary precautions such as putting up warning signs, setting up barriers, and having appropriate safety equipment on site.

By following these steps, you can effectively prepare the building site for constructing your sailboat.

What Are the Requirements for a Suitable Building Site?

The requirements for a suitable building site for constructing a sailboat include:

• Ample space: The site should have enough room to accommodate the sailboat’s size and allow for easy movement around the boat.
• Flat and level ground: The ground must be stable and even to prevent structural issues during construction.
• Protection from weather: The site should be sheltered from strong winds, rain, and direct sunlight to prevent material damage and ensure optimal working conditions.
• Access to utilities: Electricity and running water are necessary for powering tools, equipment, cleaning, and maintenance.
• Proper drainage: The site needs good drainage to prevent water accumulation, which can damage materials and hinder progress.
• Secure storage: A secure storage area is essential to protect tools, materials, and equipment from theft and damage.
• Accessibility: The site should be easily accessible for material delivery and transportation of the completed sailboat.
• Permits and regulations: Compliance with local building codes, permits, and regulations is necessary for safety and legal compliance throughout the construction process.

Building the Hull of the Sailboat

Building the hull of a sailboat is an exciting journey that requires meticulous attention to detail and precise craftsmanship. In this section, we will embark on a step-by-step process for constructing the sailboat hull, guiding you through the essential stages of this intricate endeavor. From selecting the right materials to shaping the structure, we’ll cover everything you need to know to create a sturdy and seaworthy foundation . So, grab your tools and let’s dive into the art of crafting the perfect sailboat hull.

Step-by-Step Process for Constructing the Sailboat Hull

The sailboat hull can be constructed in a step-by-step process. Here is how you can construct a strong and durable sailboat hull:

Step 1. Create the hull mold : Start by building a robust and long-lasting frame that accurately represents the shape and size of the hull.

Step 2. Prepare the mold surface: Apply a release agent to ensure that the hull does not stick to the mold.

Step 3. Lay fiberglass : Soak fiberglass cloth in epoxy resin and carefully place it on the mold, forming multiple layers to create a sturdy hull.

Step 4. Apply resin and cure: Distribute epoxy resin evenly across the entire surface in order to bond the layers together. Let it cure as per the instructions provided by the manufacturer.

Step 5. Sand and fair: Smooth out any imperfections on the hull, creating a sleek and flawless shape.

Step 6. Paint the hull: Enhance both appearance and protection by applying high-quality marine paint to the hull.

Step 7. Install hardware: Securely attach cleats, hatches, and fittings to prevent any leaks or damages.

By following these step-by-step instructions, you will be able to construct a sailboat hull that is strong, durable, and ready for the next stages of building your sailboat.

Installing the Sails and Rigging

Get ready to take your sailboat to the next level as we dive into the section on installing the sails and rigging! We’ll be revealing the secrets to properly attaching and rigging the sails for optimal performance. With expert insights and practical tips , you’ll soon be harnessing the wind like a pro. So, tighten your ropes and get ready to set sail on this exciting adventure of sailboat building!

How to Properly Attach and Rig the Sails for Optimal Performance

To properly attach and rig the sails for optimal performance on a sailboat, follow these steps:

• Ensure all necessary hardware is securely attached to the sailboat.
• Attach the halyard to the head of the sail and hoist it up the mast to the desired height.
• Secure the tack of the sail to the tack fitting at the bottom of the mast.
• Attach one end of the mainsheet to the boom and the other end to the traveler .
• Connect the jib sheets to the clew of the jib sail.
• Rig any additional sails according to manufacturer’s instructions.
• Check all lines and rigging for proper tension and alignment.
• Test the rigging and sails in different wind conditions for optimal performance.
• Regularly inspect and maintain the rigging and sails.

By following these steps, you can learn how to properly attach and rig the sails for optimal performance on your sailboat.

Essential Systems and Finishing Touches

Make your sailboat dreams a reality with this guide to essential systems and finishing touches. Discover the ins and outs of installing electrical and plumbing systems, ensuring your vessel is equipped with everything you need for a smooth sailing experience . Learn the art of applying finishes and sealants to protect your sailboat from the harsh marine environment. Get ready to set sail with confidence and style !

Installing Electrical and Plumbing Systems

When building a sailboat, it is essential to install electrical and plumbing systems. Here is a step-by-step process to guide you:

1. Plan the electrical and plumbing layout: Determine locations for electrical outlets, switches, and plumbing fixtures like sinks and toilets. Consider placement for batteries, freshwater tanks, and wastewater holding tanks.

2. Install electrical wiring: Start by installing the main electrical panel and run wires to various components and outlets. Use appropriate wiring sizes and ensure secure connections. Include safety features like circuit breakers and grounding.

3. Connect plumbing lines: Begin by installing freshwater supply lines and connecting them to the freshwater tank. Install plumbing fixtures like sinks and toilets, ensuring proper sealing and secure connections. Then, install the wastewater plumbing system, including drain lines and a holding tank.

4. Install electrical and plumbing components: This involves installing electrical outlets, switches, and lighting fixtures. Ensure proper wiring connections and test the electrical system for functionality. For plumbing, install faucets, showerheads, and toilets, ensuring proper water flow and drainage.

5. Test the systems: Once everything is installed, test the electrical and plumbing systems to ensure correct functioning. Check for leaks, proper water pressure, and operational lights and switches.

6. Make necessary adjustments: If any issues are found during testing, make the necessary adjustments and repairs to ensure optimal functioning of the systems.

7. Secure and protect the systems: Once everything is working correctly, secure and protect the electrical and plumbing systems by organizing wires and pipes, using appropriate insulation, and securing any loose components.

By following these steps, you can successfully install the electrical and plumbing systems in your sailboat, ensuring functionality and convenience on your sailing adventures.

Applying Finishes and Sealants for Protection

Applying finishes and sealants is important in building a sailboat to protect the hull and ensure its longevity.

Clean the hull: Make sure the hull is clean and free from debris or contaminants. Use a marine-friendly cleaner and rinse thoroughly.

Sand the hull: Lightly sand the hull using fine-grit sandpaper to create a smooth surface. This will help the finishes adhere better.

Choose the right finish: Select a high-quality marine-grade finish suitable for the hull material, such as varnish, paint, or gelcoat.

Apply the finish: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Apply thin, even coats using a brush or roller and allow proper drying time between coats.

Seal the hull: After applying finishes and sealants for protection, use a marine-grade sealant specifically designed for boat hulls to protect it from water penetration.

Apply multiple coats: Depending on the desired level of protection, it may be necessary to apply multiple coats of finish and sealant.

Inspect and maintain: Regularly inspect the finishes and sealants for signs of wear or damage. Touch up or reapply as needed to maintain optimal protection.

In history, boat builders recognized the importance of protecting the hulls from the sea’s harsh elements by applying finishes and sealants for protection. They used natural materials like tar, pitch, or wax to seal the wood and prevent waterlogging. Advancements in technology and materials have led to more durable finishes and sealants. Today, boat builders have access to marine-grade products designed to provide exceptional protection and enhance the longevity of sailboats. By applying finishes and sealants for protection with care and proper maintenance, sailors can ensure their sailboats remain in excellent condition for years of sailing adventures.

Testing and Launching the Sailboat

Before launching your sailboat, there are crucial steps you need to take to ensure a safe and successful voyage. In this section, we will dive into the necessary safety checks to conduct before setting sail. We will also provide valuable tips from seasoned sailors to ensure that your sailboat launch goes smoothly. So, buckle up and get ready to embark on your sailing adventure with confidence !

Conducting Safety Checks Before Launching

Conducting safety checks before launching your sailboat is crucial to ensure a safe voyage. To guarantee a smooth sailing experience, follow these steps:

1. Carefully inspect the hull of the sailboat for any damage or cracks. Be sure to check the seams and joints thoroughly.

2. Take the time to check the rigging , including the mast , shrouds , stays , and halyards , for signs of wear, fraying, or corrosion.

3. Hoist the sails and test them to ensure they are functioning properly. Make sure that all sail controls are in good condition and working as they should.

4. It is important to examine the electrical system of the sailboat. Check the battery and wiring for any signs of damage. Verify that all lights and instruments are functioning correctly.

5. Inspect the plumbing system , testing the freshwater system and searching for any leaks or clogs that may cause issues during your voyage.

6. Take the time to review all the necessary safety equipment . Ensure that everything is on board and in proper working order.

7. Confirm that all navigation aids , such as the compass , GPS , and any other navigation instruments, are functioning correctly.

8. It is crucial to verify the functioning of all communication devices . Take the time to test the radio or any other communication devices that you may have on board.

9. Inspect the fuel and engine carefully. Check the fuel level, oil levels, and overall engine condition. Test the engine to make sure it is running smoothly.

By conducting these necessary safety checks before launching your sailboat, you can minimize the risk of encountering any issues during your sailing experience.

Tips for a Successful Sailboat Launch

Perform a safety check: Before sailing, inspect the boat for damage, ensure rigging is secure, and test essential systems.

Check weather conditions: Choose a day with favorable weather for launching. Avoid high winds or rough seas.

Prepare a launch area: Clear a suitable pathway, remove obstacles, and ensure sufficient depth and space.

Use adequate support : Use sturdy boat trailers or launch ramps for stability during launch.

Properly position the boat: Center and balance the sailboat parallel to the water’s edge using dock lines or ropes.

Release the boat gradually: Release the boat steadily to prevent damage or injuries.

Monitor the boat’s movements: Check for leaks or instability and address issues immediately. Adjust sails and rigging if necessary.

Enjoy your sail: Follow boating safety guidelines and have a great time on the water.

A friend built a sailboat from scratch and successfully launched it by following these tips. The weather was perfect, and everything went smoothly. With the boat securely supported and positioned, they released it into the water, and it floated beautifully. They had a memorable experience sailing without any issues. By following these tips, they ensured a safe and enjoyable journey on their newly built sailboat.

Some Facts About How To Build A Sailboat:

• ✅ Building a sailboat can take approximately 100 hours over 3 months. (Source: Instructables)
• ✅ The cost of building a sailboat can amount to around $1,000. (Source: Instructables)
• ✅ The first step in building a sailboat involves cutting out the parts using boat building plans and plywood. (Source: Instructables)
• ✅ Assembling the hull of a sailboat involves stitching and gluing the panels together. (Source: Instructables)
• ✅ Fiberglassing the hull of a sailboat makes it waterproof and strong. (Source: Sailboat Cruising)

Frequently Asked Questions

Faq 1: what are the different options for building a sailboat.

There are three main options for building a sailboat. The first option is refurbishing an old boat, the second option is purchasing a hull with the deck moulding already fitted, and the third option is to build a boat from scratch.

FAQ 2: How long does it take to build a sailboat?

Building a sailboat takes approximately 100 hours over a span of 3 months.

FAQ 3: Can I learn the necessary skills for building a sailboat along the way?

Yes, you can learn the necessary skills for building a sailboat slowly and avoid making mistakes along the way.

FAQ 4: Should I hire a professional surveyor before refurbishing an old sailboat?

Yes, it is advisable to involve a professional surveyor before taking on the project of refurbishing an old sailboat.

FAQ 5: What materials are needed for building a sailboat?

The materials required for building a sailboat include oak plywood, epoxy resin, epoxy hardener, silica thickener, wood flour thickener, masking tape, Japanese pull-saw, table saw, router, sander, jigsaw, drill, wire cutter, C-clamps, mixing cups, fiberglass cloth, glue, screws, and fasteners.

FAQ 6: How much does it cost to build a sailboat?

The cost of building a sailboat is approximately $1,000, excluding any additional costs for customization or specific features.

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The unidirectional sleeving finally did the trick, adding both stiffness and strength. But there was at least one extra layer of unneeded woven sleeving and two of fiberglass (whenever I thought the mast was finished, the last layer was always fiberglass sleeving). Given another chance, I thought I could do better.

That chance came. At the same time I got the broken 18-foot mast, I also bought a used, unbroken 15-foot windsurfer mast, although this one was a combination of fiberglass and carbon fiber. Nearing completion is a 19-foot sailing kayak (a Michalak Trilars design, stretched four feet). There will be a lot of playing around to determine the ideal rig. The initial one will be a 55-square-foot balanced lug from my Piccup pram - almost certainly too small (it requires about a 9-foot mast). The 15-foot mast should allow a lot of flexibility for different types of sails.

It does have the same problem as the longer Windsurfer mast, being designed for a sail that requires a very bendy mast where a much stiffer mast is needed for the sails I'll be using. (I ruled out using a Windsurfer sail because it's difficult to reef them and the mast will go through partners, which restricts the size of the Windsurfer sail.)

The mast had been sitting outside for several years, mostly in the shade, but getting a bit of sun now and then. The result was the outer layer had deteriorated, getting prickly. Grabbing it barehanded would result in microscopic splinters, like grabbing a handful of pink fiberglass insulation.

For the purposes of this project, that's even better. It's a good way to test the suitability of rehabbing such a mast, one that Duckworks' readers might be able to scrounge up for free or for a pittance.

OK, now a caution. Every time I buy carbon fiber, a warning is included about the dangers of sanding and breathing the dust. So when you sand, wear a good, airtight dusk mask/respirator and sand outside if possible.

That warning applies to preparing a mast such as this one. As was mentioned, it was prickly to the touch. There's no way to know for sure if those fibers are fiberglass or carbon fiber, so wear a dusk mask when preparing the mast. In this case, I washed the mast with rags soaked with rubbing alcohol to clean it and remove any mold or mildew from its long outdoor exposure. You could see fibers floating in the air.

The mast was next laid out with each end supported by a sawhorse. I pressed down with virtually all my weight (about 200 pounds), first to ensure the mast was still structurally sound and secondly to satisfy a curiosity on how flexible this spar actually is. Windsurfer masts tend to be quite bendable to fit their highly specialized sails. Even those strong enough to use with non-Windsurfer small boat sails (and most are) will likely be too flexible to be optimal. I wanted to have a (nonscientific) way to see how much stiffness was added.

With the prep done, the rest is fairly straightforward. I had some heavy duty carbon unidirectional sleeving purchased from Soller Composites ( sollercomposites.com ) that fit the two inch diameter mast and also would constrict to fit the taper at the top. The information on the Soller site gives the maximum and minimum diameters the sleeving can handle. The sleeving I ordered works on diameters from 1 to 2.75 inches. Feeding the sleeving on the mast is straightforward. Starting at the top, I pushed the sleeving on the mast as far as it would go, about a foot or so before it began bunching up. Now take the sleeving end on the mast and with a smoothing motion pull it further on the mast as far as it goes. Push more on and bunch it up, smooth it out. It's sort of like a slinky, carbon fiber snake is devouring the mast bit by bit. It only took a few minutes to work the sleeving on the mast. The only slight problem is some of the thin Spandex threads that hold the unidirectional strands in place will break and the strands will try to spread out. Also, you want to keep the strands fairly straight. Both problems are easy to address while "smoothing" the sleeving on the mast. When it's all covered, go over and make sure there aren't any humps or knots in the sleeving.

A short note. I wasn't sure how much sleeving to order since the mast ranged from 2 inches to about 1.25 inches and the sleeving could handle from 1 to 2.75 inches. Obviously, the sleeving would go further on a 1 inch diameter rod than one that is 2.75 inches. I ordered a couple extra feet, but as best I can tell, my mast used very close to 15 feet. You don't want to order too much extra as it costs $5.24 per foot (more per foot if you order less than 10 fees, less per foot if you order more than 30 feet).

Once the sleeving is on and straight, it's time to epoxy. Here you may have to do some research as not all epoxies are optimal for working with carbon fiber. My experience has been that thin epoxies work and thick epoxies may not let the carbon fiber harden sufficiently. I've had good luck with West and MAS epoxies. Proper application also takes a bit of practice. When using traditional fiberglass, the cloth disappears when it is sufficiently saturated. There's no such luck with black carbon fiber. It will get a dull look when soaking up epoxy, and then look shiny when it is saturated. Also, a regular squeegee or roller won't work on a round mast. You'll have to use your hands, protected by thick gloves. I wore two layers of the blue nytrile gloves sold at Harbor Freight and that worked well. I put wax paper on the sawhorses under the mast. The epoxy was brushed on and then I used my hands to squeegee it in and push the excess up the mast. Try not to do this on a hot day, or have a slow curing epoxy if you do. Take your time and make sure the carbon fiber is properly saturated, and work out any bumps, ridges, or sections where the sleeving may bunch up. When your finished go over the entire mast again to check for irregularities. Make sure the strands are relatively straight (perfection is not required) and even. Double check. A few extra minutes here can save a great deal of sanding later.

Once the epoxy has completely set, it's time to dust-mask up again and sand the mast. Hand sanding will be the most efficient because of the roundness of the mast. Wear thick gloves as stick-up strands of the carbon fiber can slice right though the sandpaper and into your hand. The little strands will be hard to see, so make sure you get them all. Otherwise at it will be impossible to slide the next layer of fiberglass sleeving on the mast, or if you manage, it will tear or fray the sleeving, leaving some blemishes on the final mast.

The fiberglass sleeving feeds on the same as the carbon fiber sleeving. Epoxying is even easier because you can see when the fiberglass is sufficiently saturated. I did the same as for the carbon layer, brush on epoxy and then spread and squeegee it with gloved hands. Depending on your taste for finishing the mast, you can paint it now or fill the weave with extra epoxy and then paint.

Remember when I test bent the mast with the top and bottom supported on sawhorses? I did it again after applying the unidirectional carbon fiber sleeving and was surprised that the mast was only a bit stiffer. The unidirectional carbon is rather thick and I expected a more pronounced change. However, after the final fiberglass layer, the mast was notably less bendy. Maybe the carbon had to be "sandwiched" and have an outer layer in order to maximize the stiffness.

I paid $50 for the original used mast, the carbon fiber sleeving cost about $80, the fiberglass sleeving about $15 or $20, and probably about $20 of epoxy was used (maybe a pint or so). That's several times what materials for a wood mast would cost, but a fraction of what a similar professionally made carbon spar would run. The carbon mast plainly won't have the appeal of a varnished wood, and I think it's a bit more bendy. It is, though, less than half the weight of a wood mast and actually easier to make - there's no cutting, tapering, laminating, and rounding of the wood. Both those are good reasons to consider upgrading an old windsurfer mast for your next small sailboat project.

Mike John came up with a great idea in getting this story ready for publication. He suggested if you have to feed the sleeving over the open end of the mast, such as the bottom end of my mast as shown in the first picture in this article, you might want to duck tape a tennis or hard rubber ball over the end to ease the feeding and prevent snags. I should have mentioned that one of the reasons I fed the sleeving over the top of my mast is it was covered with a hard, rounded plastic cap. That made slipping the sleeving over it easy. If you don't have that option, try Mike's idea.

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