sailboat windlass

Boating Basics Online is reader-supported. When you buy via our links, we may earn a commission at no cost to you. Learn more

The Best Anchor Windlasses for Different Types of Boats

Written by J. Harvey / Fact checked by S. Numbers

The best anchor windlass, simply put, makes any sailor’s life less of a challenge. Once you pair with the most suitable windlass anchor system for your boating setup, it would seem like the perfect marriage. Once it starts hauling and lowering the anchor for you, you just can’t do sailing and fishing the same way without it.

Anyone with back-breakingly heavy anchors should definitely consider an electric windlass for that sole reason. The best ones out there not only save plenty of effort and time but also power. Here are three factors you should not miss when deciding:

• Pulling Power: Concerning a good anchor windlass’s reliability, it should be able to have adequate, if not abundant, pulling power. Windlasses are more powerful than most winches, so they normally win the anchor winch vs windlass battle when it comes to that. Additionally, that’s why you see a hydraulic anchor windlass on larger ships. So, you should make the most out of it.
• A 24 volt anchor windlass is sufficiently powerful for most applications. However, you should really look at the total number of pounds it can handle. The higher that limit, the more powerful.
• Durability: Anything mostly or entirely made of stainless steel or is genuinely marine-grade is guaranteed to last for years and is saltwater-friendly. It has to be adequately waterproof to protect the motor. What’s good is that most of the brands, especially the ones featured here, get this right. If you’re going to settle for a used anchor windlass for sale, never overlook these facts because they dictate the remaining mileage you can get out of them.
• Ease of Installation: Installation, in terms of windlasses, is something you don’t want to mess up as much as possible. After all, who would want to end up with five extra holes in a vessel just because they got the orientation wrong? Horizontal windlasses tend to be easier to install because everything is set up above deck. That being said, it helps to have clear, complete instructions.

It’s safe to say that you’re looking for one yourself. If so, I suggest you read my boat windlass reviews, which expound on my various experiences with the windlasses I’ve tried over the years. I can say the same for other seafarers I’ve gotten to discuss these handy tools with.

• Anchor lock feature
• Vertical, compact design
• 5-year warranty

• Superior power
• Install not too complicated
• Corrosion-resistant

• Built to last
• Consistent performance
• Adequately powerful

Table of Contents

1. Lewmar 6670011108-312 Vertical Windlasses

2. five oceans pacific 1000 anchor windlass, 3. maxwell rc8812v windlass, 4. lewmar 6656811967-303 horizontal windlass, 5. pactrade pdsa0317 electric anchor windlass, 6. lewmar 66910441 windlass, 7. five oceans atlantic 600 anchor windlass, 8. lewmar 6656411108-102 windlass, 9. powerwinch p77727 anchor windlass, 10. five oceans horizontal windlass, 11. maxwell hrcff812v windlass, other factors to consider when choosing an anchor windlass, why is an anchor winch called a windlass, how to install an anchor windlass, how do you use a windlass anchor, how do you maintain the windlass anchor, will a windlass pull rope, top 11 anchor windlass reviews.

A Lewmar creation that fits the high-quality bill, I can’t be more impressed by the fact that it’s saltwater-friendly and extraordinarily space-saving. It performs as expected and comes with a 5-year warranty.

My first introduction to Lewmar was one of their winches. It didn’t take long for me to try out their windlass anchor kit partly because of the performance I got from the winch on my smaller boats, and the fact that I needed support for anchoring on my larger center console. I was instantly hooked by the incredibly polished and solid construction of this bad boy.

That means I don’t have to worry about it getting damaged for a long time, and the 5-year warranty only added to that. And sure enough, I’ve been using this for 7 years and counting, and it still hasn’t shown signs of malfunctioning. I did encounter a few hitches recently like the anchor not pulling up properly, but most of them are because of faulty control that I only needed to replace.

I frequently take my center console to Cape Cod, and I love to do so precisely because this windlass has consistently made anchoring a breeze for me. It’s adequately powerful as it can handle 700 pounds, and I particularly appreciate the anchor lock feature, which keeps my anchor steady when deployed.

The installation is just good, not overly easy, and not too hard. You have to be sure of the cabling. The vertical orientation fits it right in the limited space of the pulpit, and the general design is not without its inherent appeal.

• Stainless steel, rust-resistant, and salt-water friendly construction
• Not that hard to install
• Manually activated free-fall feature

This marine windlass is a paragon of power and durability. Performance-oriented doesn’t even begin to describe the kind of close to automatic, no-nonsense anchoring you get out of this.

I’ve only been using this windlass anchoring system in my Virginia Beach and Lake Erie excursions. I installed it on one of my new cabin cruisers, a 30-foot beauty that I intended to use more for fishing. I reckoned I needed a more powerful windlass that’s equally durable.

Almost immediately, I considered Lewmar and Five Oceans. This 1,000W one stood out to me because of its thicker construction. It’s evidently corrosion-resistant, but given the short time I’ve used it, I can’t confirm this 100% yet.

However, if we’re going to pit power against durability, which is two of its main strengths, I’d choose the former any time. In almost all my fishing trips, I’ve had to deal with loads and loads of seaweed. I mean the kind that gets stuck and adds an extra 200 pounds to the heft. Well, all of that’s just a piece of cake for this monster – no struggle, whatsoever! And it does so consistently.

It’s not that hard to install but you just have to be mindful of the template. Don’t use the arrow as a reference and only stick to the dotted line. I like that, for the price, you get a footswitch included, which can be installed on the bow or console.

• Comes complete and ready to be installed
• Free fall manually activated

A heavy-duty, notably powerful anchor windlass, I like this Maxwell windlass for its versatility when it comes to the different chains that it can accommodate and the fact that you can retrofit it without the need for disassembly.

This is another brand that I have a lot of faith in. It’s my go-to brand if I’m aiming for something to handle any kind of anchor setup I have in place. The fact that it supports a 5/16 chain and ⅝ rope combination highlights its heavy-duty quality. It’s able to handle 500 feet of anchor rode without floundering, and the retrieval is fairly quick.

I’ve taken a 2004 Carver 460 voyager with this windlass to many of my Lake Erie fishing trips. It has only ever given me a great performance in all those times. It’s the kind of windlass that delivers, once you get it properly set up, to the point that relying on it for most of your anchoring becomes automatic.

I’d be lying if I said that I didn’t love the marine-grade stainless steel the moment I laid my eyes on this. I’ve been using mine for more than four years, and it still retains its shine and has no sign of rust damage. You can expect as much from a household brand like this.

The combination of power, durability, and versatility leads to outstanding reliability. I don’t remember any instance this struggled with all the extra seaweed and muck it hauled on board.

• Works well with
• Installation instructions are too concise

This Lewmar horizontal windlass provides a solid option for those with minimal deck space. It has decent pulling power and a free fall feature, while also being space-saving, durable and not hard to install.

I bought this years ago for one of my very first sailboats. It’s a 25-footer that I cruised with on an almost monthly basis. I had plenty of time back then, and this windlass definitely made boating life easy for me and fueled my passion for it more.

I like that the kit it comes in gives you everything you need. I didn’t have to buy separate mounting studs for the installation. It also came with push-button control and a toggle switch for more convenience. Overall, I can say that it’s one of the first user-friendly windlasses I’ve used.

Installation went fairly swiftly because I already have experience installing Lewmar. The brand didn’t pull any punches when lending an extra hand because they even included a template for drilling holes and mounting to accommodate the rode and chain. It took less than an hour, which is quick for most DIY jobs.

Its power is enough for most medium-sized anchors and below. Don’t expect it to compete with higher-end options out there, but don’t underestimate, too. While it did struggle with seaweed on rare occasions, they’re fairly mild issues that got resolved quickly without hiccups. I only needed to do the usual pull-up trick when the anchor snags.

I know that most horizontal windlasses naturally save more space than their vertical counterparts. To me, this one saves even more because of the overall compact design. I like that it manages seawater well, too. My own unit has been splashed with it thousands of times, but it held up well until I had no other choice but to replace it due to its age.

• Complete kit
• User-friendly and adequately powerful
• Saltwater-friendly
• Relatively easy to install
• Space-saving design
• Free fall feature included but needs to be activated manually

This, to me, is a budget-friendly windlass anchor winch for those who like to do solo fishing on a pontoon or any other similar small vessel. It’s made of marine-grade materials, can handle anchors weighing no more than 20 pounds, and is reliable on the whole.

This windlass reminded me more of a winch than a traditional manual windlass. I’d say it fits the windless anchor winch label perfectly with that considered.

I like to do recreational fishing from time to time. In such cases, I prefer to bring a more solo-oriented vessel with a winch for obvious reasons. For that, I often rely on a winch, but the fact that this is advertised as a windlass definitely caught my eye.

Right off the bat, I was expecting it to be more powerful. Well, while it did have sufficient pulling power, it’s not exactly the output of a typical windlass. I’m really more inclined to think it’s a winch, since it’s, more or less, the same in construction and capacity.

That being said, it’s reliable, at best. I often use a grapnel anchor with it, and the good thing is that the lake near my home mainly has a rocky bottom. It does its job without giving me the usual hassles (e.g. free-spooling), and to me, that’s the most important thing.

The rope it comes with is also worth praising for its overall soundness. It kept me steady in all the times I used it. I did inevitably replace it with a monofilament fishing rode, which allowed me to work with a longer line.

• Made of durable, marine-grade materials
• Adequate pulling power for light anchors
• Proven reliability
• Rode can be changed
• Limited to small vessels

Another windlass for small boats that’s made by a recognized brand, this Lewmar creation fits lightweight anchoring purposes . It does the job well and quickly, especially if anchor reeling is the topic. What’s even better is that you can get it for far fewer bucks than others made by this brand.

A friend of mine has this on his 22’ Grady Offshore. I’ve gone fishing on his boat numerous times already to know this little gem of a windlass’s remarkable performance. I particularly like that it’s quick to bring up any anchor, assuming it’s within the weight limit, that you hook up to it.

We like to frequent Lake Erie with his vessel, and for all the extensive time we’ve spent fishing, it still hasn’t shown any signs of significant salt damage. That’s four or more years of regular use, as far as healthy fishing habits are concerned. I credit the entire stainless steel construction of the cover, and my friend echoes the same thoughts.

• Good value for the price
• Highly affordable
• Powerful anchor pulling capability for its size
• Proven durability
• Included rope tends to wind up

If you’re aiming for maximum quality, this windlass is sure to deliver. To me, it’s just as powerful as the other Five Oceans windlass I own and has the same kind of toughness, both of which can be enjoyed for less than a few hundred dollars.

This is one of my first experiences with what can be deemed as a truly high-end windlass. I say that in the highest sense of the term. After all, I’ve yet to own a windlass, other than the one from the same brand, that has this much durability.

It’s been on my 33’ center console for close to eight years, and it hasn’t shown any notable signs of depreciation. There’s zero presence of rust, and I have only been doing minimal maintenance on it through the years. I’ve taken it to numerous saltwater and freshwater fishing trips, and it has only ever given me all the anchoring conveniences I wanted from it.

This kit is slightly cheaper because the windlass, as a whole, is less powerful than the others that it shares a product line with. It’s only 600W compared to the 1,000W found in other windlasses. But, of course, that kind of output is still no pushover compared to windlass products available nowadays.

• Proven to last for years
• Reliable performance
• More budget-friendly option from a high-end brand
• Made entirely of stainless steel
• Costs thrice as much as most windlasses featured here

With an automatic free fall feature and powerful motor, this one fits the bill if you also happen to be working with a relatively larger vessel. It’s brimming with durability, too.

I needed a windlass for my bigger 36’ Sportsman boat, which I and my buddies love to take during our annual and semi-annual get-togethers. I instantly loved its free fall feature since it’s automatic. If you tend to anchor a lot like me and are familiar with the best spots to drop it, you’ll love the unrivaled benefits of this feature.

It’s been with me for close to three years now. As of this writing, it has weathered most of the storms that it faced, which are relatively fewer compared to other vessels I’ve manned. The stainless steel finish is as sleek as it is sturdy, so I have no complaints there whatsoever.

Its performance and power are two of its main strengths, to me. For one, unlike other products I’ve used, it has never given me a rode headache (i.e. the rode ending up in a tangled mess when I pull it up). Secondly, it handles my heavier-weight anchors and the extra load that comes with them without struggling too much.

• Automatic free fall
• Suitable for larger boats and heavier anchors
• Sleek and durable stainless construction
• Prevents rode from piling up
• Crank has to be turned manually at times

This windlass will wow you with its free fall capabilities. Add to that the decent pulling power and the superb durability, and you pretty much get a solid windlass that gets the job done.

Precision and quick free falling when anchoring will always be my thing, and I love that this windlass has always outshone the other ones I’ve owned when it comes to that feature. I use it on my 35’ center console with a 30-pound Danforth anchor. It drops anchor as quickly as it advertises.

Take note that you need a relatively heavy anchor to enjoy speedy and precise anchor drops every time. I’ve tried it out with a 25-pound Danforth, and it’s just not the same. That’s one complaint I have, but I know the exact reason why that’s the case, so it’s still a minor issue.

The pulling power is decent, but it’s to be expected given its capacity. It’s not too strong and not too weak, just enough to raise my heavy anchor every time. What sealed the deal for me was that it never once jammed in all the two years I’ve used it.

I can say the same for the construction and the overall durability. It’s still great, but not too outstanding. I appreciate the inclusion of stainless steel on parts that require the most rust protection.

• Excellent free fall feature
• Decent pulling power and durability
• Has never jammed based on experience
• Affordable option
• Needs a heavy anchor to make the most out of the free fall feature

Five Oceans remains one of my favorite brands precisely because of products like this. It’s generous in power and durability, which equates to better reliability. Design-wise, it’s hard to beat.

I really appreciate the fact that this windlass did not take long for me to install. It only took me less than an hour to set it up on my sportfishing boat, and yes, that already includes the wiring. That’s way less time I spent on other windlass setups without relying on professional help, and I mainly credit the kit it comes in, which gave me everything I needed.

How does it fare when it comes to performance? I placed most of my bets on the motor when I bought it, and I’m glad I did because it’s noticeably powerful. I can’t name plenty of other brands that pack the same amount of punch in pulling power, and I’m talking about handling seaweed-laden 30-pound Danforth anchors with relative ease when I say this.

When it comes to durability, it delivers precisely what I’ve come to expect from this brand. This is one of my newer windlasses made by this brand, but I’m already confident that it will last for years because of the stellar stainless steel used. I just hope I can say the same for the motor.

• Easy to install
• Great for those with minimal locker space for the rode
• Excellent power
• Superb durability
• No free fall feature

It’s hard to not have favorites, especially once you’ve given this windlass a try. It has an automatic free fall feature, marine-grade construction, and an exceptionally powerful motor.

In most cases when Lewmar or other brands fail me, Maxwell almost always manages to save my fishing trips for me. That has been the pattern for me in recent years, and I can safely say that this Maxwell offering can vie for the top spot at any time. For one, it’s got the power and all the features and perks I’m looking for.

I love that you can activate the automatic free fall from the helm. The power-down option is just as good, but if you like to save lots of time like me, this windlass practically does so for you with its free fall option. It has few rivals when it comes to that.

I’ve been using this windlass for a good portion of five years already. It served as a replacement for an old Lewmar on my center console. In all that time, it has never snagged the anchor once, and if it did, it’s more because of my choice of anchoring spot than anything else.

Of course, I can’t forget about the power. It’s the kind that pulls 35-pound anchors without any issue. That, plus the equally commendable toughness of the materials completes the entire thing for me.

Lastly, its install instructions are just as complete. These are the exact reasons why if this ever becomes available with a discount, it’s certainly a good windlass for sale – if not entirely excellent.

• Automatic free fall feature
• Exceptional power and durability
• Excellent and hassle-free control setup
• Uncomplicated installation
• No snags based on first-hand experience
• Plastic chain stripper tends to warp quickly

What, to me as an avid sailor and boater, is the right electric anchor windlass? I usually don’t depart from these factors:

I can’t get enough windlasses with free fall features because they save me a lot of time and effort. I do only use it on lakes whose bottoms I’m already familiar with and make sure that I’m using an anchor with enough heft.

Automatic free fall means you get to activate the feature without having to manually trigger it on the built-in switch attached to the windlass. You need to be able to do it remotely through the helm if you want the best kind of convenience. Manual is also good, but you have to always be near the windlass to activate it.

Locker Space

You want to make sure the windlass you’re using can accommodate the entire rode with regards to the total capacity of your locker space. In most cases, horizontal windlasses take up less space than their vertical counterparts.

Availability of Spare Parts

This one’s often overlooked. If you’re planning to buy an aftermarket windlass anchor system for cheaper prices, you’ll most likely have to buy a separate part to replace a broken one (e.g. a damaged motor or something more specific like the chain stripper). Not all brands offer spare parts nor can they guarantee that supplies will always be available.

The Different Types of Anchor Windlasses

There are only two different types of anchor windlasses. They’re commonly classified based on their orientation, which more or less, affects the anchor windlass operation.

• Horizontal Windlasses

These are preferred because their rodes tend to take up less locker space and are usually easier to install since everything is set up above deck. This means you won’t have to make a hole on your deck to install it.

• Vertical Windlasses

Vertical windlasses are not without their own unique range of benefits. For one, they take up less space on the deck, and there are brands that capitalize on that by making their products more compact. Another benefit is that the chain and rode tend to have a more secure wrap around the gypsy due to the orientation.

Benefits and Drawback of Using an Anchor Windlass

As far as most boaters can tell, an anchor windlass assists you in all your anchoring needs. The way it makes raising the anchor less of a hurdle to overcome each time you go out fishing or cruising on your own underscores its value.

If you have a poor back or any condition that lowers your ability to haul an anchor, a windlass is a must. Overall, it makes fishing on your own always viable and enjoyable.

The most immediate drawback for me and many boaters is the cost. For context, let’s look at one of the most expensive Lofrans windlass products available today. It sells for a whopping $4,250. $1,000, which is the average cost of the windlasses I’ve used over the years, is not exactly cheap as well.

This is often a misconception or mislabeling because both fulfill the same function of raising and lowering the anchor. That’s why some brands label their windlass as a winch and vice versa. A windlass is different from a winch in that it accommodates more rode combinations and a chain, while a winch is fairly limited. The same goes for the power: expect windlasses to be more heavy-duty.

This depends, as I’ve said, on the orientation. Horizontal windlasses often only need to be screwed onto the deck and would therefore require you to drill holes in the right positions. Vertical windlasses have motors that will require you to make room below deck and will therefore need more changes that entail dismantling a portion of your deck.

The procedure step-by-step is an entirely different topic altogether. It’s always best to refer to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you want an actual demonstration, I suggest you watch this video.

Whether you’re controlling the windlass remotely through the helm or on its built-in switch, it’s fairly straightforward. There will be buttons for lowering and raising the anchor. You only need to push down to lower the anchor to your desired depth and push up to raise it.

If there’s a free fall feature, it’s most likely triggered by a specific set of actions that will be instructed to you by the manufacturer. Otherwise, it may be done with a single button push. Once you’ve lowered it to your desired depth, you may use a lanyard or a safety strap to keep the rode or chain locked in place.

Most windlasses are built with durability in mind, so you don’t have to worry too much about maintenance. This is especially true if they’re made of stainless steel. A little polishing and cleaning on a monthly basis will suffice for these kinds of windlasses.

That being said, it won’t hurt to check the motor for any signs of water damage from time to time. Inspect the wiring for anything amiss. Lubricate most of the moving parts to keep the operation smooth. Lastly, don’t forget to check the rode you’re using and make sure it’s still achieving the right amount of tension and hasn’t been damaged before setting sail again.

No. It’s not compatible with rope. Many brands like to label their winch as a windlass, and the former can definitely work with rope. That has probably only led to this confusion.

What can I say about the windlasses I’ve tried and featured here? It’s that you don’t have to pay $2,000 or more just to get one that will make your solo fishing and boating trips a whole lot more convenient. At the end of the day, the best anchor windlass, to me, satisfies that factor while still managing to bring its much-coveted benefit and do so for a long time.

“My intention from the first day establishing Boating Basics Online is to provide as much help as possible for boaters who want to experience a first safe and convenient trip. So feel free to join us and share your beautiful journeys to the sea!”

• BOAT OF THE YEAR
• Newsletters
• Sailboat Reviews
• Boating Safety
• Sailing Totem
• Charter Resources
• Destinations
• Galley Recipes
• Living Aboard
• Sails and Rigging
• Maintenance
• Best Marine Electronics & Technology

Installing an Anchor Windlass

• By Tom Zydler
• Updated: May 9, 2019

When it came time to replace the old and tired vertical windlass on Francis B , our Mason 44, I naturally opted for a horizontal windlass because it would free up space in the anchor locker and its motor would sit up on deck, where it could easily be maintained and repaired if needed (See “Choosing a Windlass,” at the bottom of this article).

Before I could bolt the new Maxwell HRC 10-10 into place, though, I first had to remove the old windlass and prepare the deck where it would sit — simple enough in theory, but as always, there were a few surprises along the way.

The line capstan and the chain wildcat, sometimes called a gypsy, slipped off easily from the drive shaft, revealing six bolts running through the bronze base of the windlass. These passed through the deck and supported the drive motor and gearbox below. The removal of the assembly revealed very severe corrosion around the bolt holes in the gearbox housing. Large washers under the nuts completely covered the problem. To make things worse, the gearbox housing was cast aluminum and the bolts were bronze. These are two metals that should never be mixed in a marine environment. The less noble aluminum will always be the loser.

On deck, the vertical windlass was mounted on a 2-inch-thick wood pad covered by gelcoated fiberglass. The builder put this down using 3M’s 5200. This powerful adhesive can usually be loosened up with a heat gun, which I didn’t want to use on our teak deck. Besides, the heat wouldn’t have penetrated the massive spacer block anyway.

After cutting through the spacer with a Sawzall reciprocating saw, I had to chisel the remains off the deck. The wood inside that base was rotten, which indicated that the backing piece under the deck — also gelcoated fiberglass over wood — likely would have to go too. I went at it with a cutting grinder and found out that the wood inside had turned to wet pulp. I replaced it with a solid chunk of teak glued in place with thickened epoxy.

To prepare the deck for the new windlass, I reamed out the soft balsa core around the original holes for bolts, windlass shaft and chain drop. After drying these areas using fresh air, sunshine and a heat gun set on low, I filled the bolt holes with epoxy. The large chain-drop opening, which would be visible when the new windlass was fitted in place, was filled with a teak plug.

I glued the thin paper template onto stiff cardboard first and then used this to double-check the alignment of the base with the run of the chain coming from the bow roller.

I planned to keep the hole for the shaft of the old windlass open to accommodate the wiring for the new windlass and its above-deck motor, but to protect the exposed balsa core, I sealed the edges with thickened epoxy.

The deck on our Mason has a slight camber, so I sanded the area under the footprint of the new unit as flat as I could.

Then, I used the template supplied with the new windlass as my guide for drilling the necessary bolt holes and a larger hole for the chain to fall into its locker. I glued the thin paper template onto stiff cardboard first and then used this to double-check the alignment of the base with the run of the chain coming from the bow roller.

Five awls helped me mark bolt locations and the center for the chain-drop opening. After that I punched out the full-size bolt holes in the template — more on that in a moment.

The new windlass is attached to the deck by studs threaded into its base. The bolt holes to accommodate them had to be drilled absolutely square — a challenge with a 2-inch-thick, slightly uneven deck. I needed to devise a jig. For this I used a piece of 3-inch-thick hardwood. Now guided by the template I put this wood on a drill press and cut four holes for the bolts. I also drilled a ¼-inch hole for the chain-drop center. My jig was ready.

I immobilized the jig on the deck with an awl through the ¼-inch center hole in the chain drop and checked the alignment with the chain once again. I drilled the first hole following the small prick the awl marked on the deck earlier. I put the bolt in, checked the alignment of the jig yet again and then went on drilling the remaining holes for the studs.

Next, I attached a hole saw to my ½-inch drill and cut out the chain drop. I sealed the raw edges of this opening with epoxy and slipped in a piece of bronze pipe, a bushing of sorts, to protect the balsa and teak from the chain when anchoring. With the studs screwed into the windlass base, I put the supplied gasket on. A little jiggling helped slip the bolts into the holes on deck and the whole windlass settled down easily — to my infinite surprise and relief!

The electric control components from the old windlass were in excellent condition so I left them in place, keeping the new solenoid pack that came with the unit as a spare. The new windlass has a chain wildcat for 10 mm chain, and I was assured it would work with our existing 3/8-inch BBB chain. Perhaps because the links of our hardworking chain were rusting, the windlass worked but with some occasional hiccups. I splurged on a new G4 chain and it fits perfectly. Apparently the G4 is manufactured to much more precise specifications. Our chain wildcat is designed to handle a combination of chain and line spliced directly into the chain links. Because of abrasion, I don’t believe the splice will last very long, so we have never tried hauling the rode in this manner.

Rather than releasing the chain manually and letting it run out, our new Maxwell has the ability to reverse its motor in order to drop the anchor. In the past, I’ve found that to be slow, so that by the time the anchor finds the bottom the boat has drifted far away from the chosen spot. So to me, this feature wasn’t worth the labor and the cost of the extra wire needed to take advantage of it. With that decision made, my work was done.

Tom Zydler and his wife, Nancy, have been frequent Cruising World contributors for over two decades. In recent years, they’ve chased the seasons to the Canadian Maritimes and back on their Mason 44 Francis B.

Windlass Manufacturer Guide

• Ideal Windlass is now owned (and windlasses are serviced) by Schaefer Marine. See idealwindlass.com ; 401-884-2550.
• Italwinch windlasses are imported to the U.S. by Bainbridge International. See bainbridgeintusa.com ; 781-821-2600.
• Lighthouse is a U.S. maker of all stainless-steel horizontal windlasses with under-deck motors, with a wide choice of gypsy/capstan combinations. See lighthouse-mfg-usa.com or [email protected] ; 951-683-5078.
• Lewmar manufactures windlasses in a wide variety of types and sizes. See www.lewmar.com/products ; 203-458-6200.
• Lofrans is an Italian maker of popular models of all types; they are distributed in the U.S. by IMTRA. See imtra.com ; 508-995-7000.
• Maxwell, now owned by Vetus, builds models of all types in New Zealand. See maxwellmarine.com or [email protected] ; 714-689-2900.
• Muir is an Australian company, handled in the U.S. by IMTRA. See imtra.com ; 508-995-7000
• Quick windlasses are made in Italy and distributed in the U.S. by QuickUSA. See quickusastore.com ; 410-636-5991

Choosing A Windlass

When replacing or installing either a manual or powered windlass, you need to factor in the size of your boat and the depth of the water where you’ll likely be anchoring. The larger the vessel and the ­deeper the harbors, the more likely it is that you’ll go the power route. And unless your boat already has a hydraulic system, an electric windlass drawing either 12 or 24 volts is the way to go.

When selecting a windlass, first consider how hard it may have to work. The popular idea that the windlass only has to lift the combined weights of the anchor and the submerged length of chain is dangerously wrong. When the wind begins to blow and the sea builds, the usual tactic of powering forward to ease the load on the chain may not work as expected. The boat moves forward, the chain slacks and, as soon as you slow down or shift the transmission into neutral, the wind catches the bow and throws it sideways. Now the windlass has to pull against the wind and seas, and there is additional friction from the chain dragging across the bow roller. Combined, that’s a lot of extra resistance.

If your windlass is wired with an overload system — and it should be to avoid melting power cables that can ­carry 100 amps or more of current — the electric motor will stall. It will restart when the load eases out. Therefore, when retrieving the anchor rode, work the windlass in lulls when the chain is straight and not bar tight. If there is a sea running, engage the windlass when the bow goes down and stop it when the bow rises.

To get an idea of what size windlass your boat needs, check out the specifications provided by the various manufacturers. These show the maximum pulling power in pounds or kilos, along with the range of boat length and displacement a specific ­windlass can handle. Maximum pull means the load at which the motor stalls. Work load usually is rated at 1/3 of the stall load. Also look at the ­amperage required. This indicates the motor’s size and power, as well the size of the electrical wire that will be required between the windlass and ­battery and breaker. In general, it’s better to have a windlass that’s bigger than what the specifications call for. There are basically two types of windlass: vertical and horizontal. The terms can be confusing because they ­refer to the orientation of the ­axle and not the gypsy or capstan around which the chain or rope rode runs.

On a vertical windlass, a notched chain wildcat, which is also called a gypsy or chain wheel, sits above deck. In a typical installation, the windlass motor is below in the anchor locker. In most cases, the windlass will be mounted on the boat’s centerline. The anchor chain feeds onto the gypsy and is pulled nearly all the way around it before it drops into a pipe or hole that leads it into the anchor locker. A benefit of this design is that nearly the entire gypsy is loaded with chain. This setup works fine with a single anchor rode, but cruisers often carry a spare anchor with a line and chain rode. To handle the additional tackle, a capstan is sometimes mounted above the gypsy.

On a horizontal windlass, the motor is often — though not always — mounted on deck, which is a plus for any boat with limited anchor-locker space. Depending on the model, it is possible to mount a gypsy on either end of the horizontal axle, making it possible to have two anchors and rodes in use at one time, or a gypsy on one side for a chain rode and a capstan on the other for a line rode. With a horizontal windlass, the chain is engaged by the gypsy, makes a 90-degree turn and drops directly into the anchor locker.

The preferable horizontal windlass design is for the on-deck motor to have its own gasketed cover, which makes it very easy to service. By contrast, horizontal and vertical windlasses that have their motors below deck are exposed to the damp environment of the chain locker. Sooner or later water may work its way past seals or down a vertical drive shaft and cause corrosion and electrical problems. This is usually very difficult to detect. For me, the horizontal windlass with an ­above-deck motor is the way to go if you want longevity, ease of operation and easy access for maintenance.

As an added benefit, should the electrical motor seize up, almost all horizontal ­windlasses have an easy-to-use manual backup system, while some vertical windlasses ­require partial dismantling to install a hand crank.

Handling Multiple Rodes

In addition to a primary all-chain or chain-and-line anchor rode, many bluewater cruisers will have a second anchor rode of line with a relatively short length of chain. When not in use, the two rodes are separated in the chain locker by a fore-and-aft ­divider or some other partition. In such a case, some device must lead the chain from the windlass’ wildcat to its own storage space. Using a pipe for this causes the chain to twist as it comes in, so that after a few anchorages it will hockle into an unmanageable mess just when you may need to drop it in a hurry. A flat ramp of some sort, mounted at an angle on top of the divider, solves this problem. Having a capstan on the windlass in addition to the chain gypsy lets the line rode be ­retrieved so it can then be stored in the other anchor locker compartment.

Put a Plug in it

On the Francis B , the chain from the horizontal windlass goes into a hole in the deck that will also let water into the chain locker. Make sure this water runs out of a drain hole or into the main bilge through clean limber holes. For long passages, make a tapered plug from wood or rubber that fits the deck hole. Screw an eyebolt in the bottom of the plug. Then disconnect the chain from the anchor, attach it to the eye and drop the plug into the hole — the weight of the chain will help keep the plug in place. You cannot do this on a vertical windlass because the chain disappears into a naval pipe that feeds it into the anchor locker. A bundle of rags stuffed in the mouth of that chain pipe helps some. On one boat, I used a fistful of something akin to silly putty and that worked reasonably well too.

• More: anchor , Hands-On Sailor , How To , Windlass
• More How To

How to Rig Everything in Your Favor

Is There a Doctor Aboard?

3 Clutch Sails For Peak Performance

It’s Time to Rethink Your Ditch Kit

Cruising the Northwest Passage

Balance 442 “Lasai” Set to Debut

A Legendary Sail

10 Best Sailing Movies of All Time

• Digital Edition
• Customer Service
• Privacy Policy
• Email Newsletters
• Cruising World
• Sailing World
• Salt Water Sportsman
• Sport Fishing
• Wakeboarding

5 Best Anchor Windlass – (Reviews & Buying Guide 2021)

Imagine that you’re in the sea for an entire day—fishing, diving, or just enjoying some quality time alone. You sail to get home after the long and tiring day. When you reach the port, you press a button to drop your anchor and go back home. No time or more energy wasted to pull down your anchor. It’s possible with the right anchor windlass.

Our team at The Marine Mag has done the research, collected useful facts, and has also prepared some  anchor windlass reviews . We want to help you, our readers, on your journey to finding the best products and devices to equip your boat. This post is meant to help you find the  best anchor windlass  for your vessel.

Best Anchor Windlass Comparison Chart

Best anchor windlass (top picks ).

The following reviews are not in a particular order. Check them out and see for yourself the pros and cons of these top-selling anchor windlasses.

1. Lewmar Vertical Windlasses

You can use this product with boats which are up to 35 feet long. The windlass is equipped with a breaker, a rocker switch, a control arm, a clutch wretch, a dual-direction solenoid, an under mounting plate, a mounting gasket, and a cutout template.

In addition to this, if you cannot afford to give the whole amount of money to pay for this product, leasing can be arranged. Doing so, you will provide smaller quantities of money every month for half a year, and this won’t increase the initial price. If you want to benefit from this opportunity, the only requirement is to be approved for an Amazon store card.

• Thanks to this windlass, anchoring is already an easy task.
• Everything necessary for its installation is included.
• Lewmar offers a 5-year warranty.
• The unit of this windlass is made of stainless steel, which is considered to be a durable material.
• This item doesn’t come with foot controls.

2. Lewmar Windlass – Anchr ProSport

Despite its price, this windlass is actually a budget-friendly option because it consumes a small amount of energy. Since the manufacturers are aware that you may not have all the money to pay the product upon purchase, they offer you the opportunity to make equal monthly payments for six months with 0% interest. The only condition to be able to do this is to get an Amazon store card.

Keep in mind that this windlass is suitable for boats that are up to 40 feet long, and its maximum pulling power is 550 lbs. Another advantage of this product is that it comes with everything necessary for its installation – a base gasket, fast mounting studs, an installation wretch, a toggle switch, and a circuit breaker.

• Since this windlass features low power consumption, it is a budget-friendly option.
• For your convenience, you can install this item above the deck.
• A dual-direction power operation characterizes this product.
• Everything needed for installing this windlass comes with it.
• This item doesn’t feature a free-fall, which you can remotely control. In other words, it can be manually operated to free fall.

3. Maxwell Windlass

Another benefit of this product is that its installation is very easy as the item consists only of two parts. Thanks to its special spacer tube, this windlass can be installed through any deck thickness. If you need to disassemble the unit, you can easily do this by using the handle, screwdriver and Allen key provided with the item. This windlass has proven long term durability because of the fact that it is made of stainless steel. You can operate this tool manually if you want it to free fall.

• Thanks to the clear instructions, the installation of this product are very easy.
• The maximum pulling power of this tool is twice one of the similar products.
• You can be sure that this item is going to last for a long time as it is made of durable stainless steel.
• Disassembling the unit is also not a challenge, as you have all the necessary tools for it provided.
• You have to purchase the rope and chain separately, which will add to the initial cost of the product.

4. Five Oceans Horizontal Anchor Windlass

Another advantage of this product is that it is very durable as it is made of stainless steel. This windlass is suitable for boats that are up to 35 feet long. Everything needed for the installation of this item comes with it – a circuit breaker, a solenoid, a rocker switch, and a deck footswitch. Receiving all these tools in the package of the windlass, you will save a lot of money.

Keep in mind that with the horizontal units, the whole windlass remains above the deck. If you follow the given instructions and template, the installation of this unit should take you about an hour.

• This item features a very powerful 600W motor.
• You can use this windlass with three-strands, eight-plate and double-braided ropes.
• The durability of the item is ensured by the fact that it is made of stainless steel.
• Everything needed for the installation of this windlass comes with it.
• This product doesn’t feature a free fall. However, it drops and retrieves very fast.

5. Five Oceans Vertical Anchor Windlass

Thanks to this motor, the Five Oceans product can provide a maximum pulling power of 1450 pounds, and a maximum line speed of 131feet per minute.  You can use this windlass with double-braided, eight-plate, and three-strands ropes. Keep in mind that this item is suitable for boats that are up to 35 feet long.

Like most of the other similar products, this one is also made of stainless steel, which ensures that it is sturdy and durable. Unlike other windlasses, this one has a free-fall feature, and it comes with a helm switch. For your convenience, this windlass comes with a ready mounting template.

• This windlass has a very powerful motor – a 900W one.
• Thanks to the stainless steel it is made of, this product is very durable.
• The Five Oceans windlass features a free-fall mechanism.
• All you need for the installation of this item comes with it.

Horizontal or Vertical Windlass

• Horizontal windlasses are the ones that stay above the deck only. These are suitable for smaller boats, even though they take up more space on deck. These windlasses provide a 90-degree wrap of the locker. Such devices require a minimum of 12 inches fall in order to stack the anchor rode adequately.
• Vertical devices are positioned both on top and below the deck. These provide a 180-degree wrap of the anchor rode and are more stable than horizontal ones. Such windlasses are suitable for larger boats that allow for a fall of a minimum of 18 inches.

To know which one is suitable for your boat, measure the distance from the top anchor locker to the top anchor rode. The result is the ‘fall’ which your boat allows. Based on the number, you can choose which the right type is for you.

Installation

If you go with a horizontal windlass, you shouldn’t have a problem with its installation. The only thing you need to do is drill holes onto your boat so that you can position and bolt it down. On the other hand, if you have to install a vertical one, you will need to make a large enough hole to insert the windlass below the deck.

Furthermore, it also matters whether your device is manual or electric. For the latter, you have to figure out and install the wiring. If you’re not sure of your capabilities, because  electrical windlass installation is complicated , you can always hire a professional to do the job.

Types of Anchor Windlasses

Based on your boat type and size and your budget, you can choose one of three anchor windlasses types:

• Manual devices are the simplest and most affordable ones. As the name suggests, these do not require any wiring or plumbing. These are the most useful for small boats that don’t have much battery power. Using such a device makes anchoring by hand easier than without a windlass. These devices are available with two types – one uses a back and forth motion, and the other a circular one.
• Hydraulic windlasses are the most complicated to install. However, they offer unlimited power, and you don’t have to worry about draining your batteries. They require a hydraulic system within the vessel to power them. These are incredibly efficient and are often used on large yachts and boats.
• Electric windlasses are relatively compact. They are powered by the vessel’s existing electrical system. These devices are probably the most powerful ones, a range of boat types and sizes. Electric windlasses have excellent lifting power, and using one makes anchoring effortless and straightforward. All you do is press a button. However, this type only works when there’s power on the boat. To avoid awkward and unpleasant situations, you may need to install a dedicated battery for the windlass.

How to Choose an Anchor Windlass

Pulling Power

This is the performance of the windlass and is the most crucial factor when choosing a device. To calculate the windlass’ pulling power that will be enough for your boat and anchor, you should:

• Combine the weight of the anchor and its chain or rope. The result is the ground tackle.
• Then, multiply that number three times, and you will receive the maximum strength your windlass must-have.

The calculations are measured in pounds. For example, if your anchor weighs 66 lbs, the chain and rope weigh 126 lbs, the ground tackle is 192 lbs. Multiplying this number by three, and you need a windlass with maximum pull power of 576 lbs.

The second thing to keep in mind is the gypsy. It may be small, but it’s an essential part of the windlass that does an important job. The gypsy is the rotating part of the device, usually designed for the exact size of the chain. So, take a look at each product’s gypsy specifications because your rod type may not be a match. Even though some models may have automatic handling of a rope-chain rode, not all do. However, most products are suitable for a variety of gypsies.

It is vital to match the windlass to the gypsy, and then to the anchor rode because otherwise, you’re risking one of the three to wear out fast.

Anchor Rod Type

This is the other important factor to consider before choosing a windlass. As you may or may not know, there are three types of anchor rods:

• A rope is the most affordable option and is commonly used on small boats only. It is only natural because the rope isn’t as sturdy as a chain, or a combination of both. This type may be more suitable for manual windlasses, which are also for smaller vessels.
• Chain only is perfect for large vessels. Naturally, it is more durable and more expensive. It also makes the anchor heavier, and you need a powerful and sturdy windlass to pull their combined weight.
• Chain and rope is probably the most popular type since it allows for more length. Plus, this type is very powerful at holding the anchor and pulling it. However, there are some ups and downs to this type of anchor rod. You should take a look at our  guide on getting the top anchor ropes and chains for more detailed information. Furthermore, you should maintain your chain and rope combo because it may chafe.

Safety Tips  

Using an anchor windlass isn’t a joke and should be handled with care and diligence. So, we have some safety tips for you.

• Use chain stoppers and chain snubbers. They prevent accidental self-launching of the anchor, which also keeps your windlass safe.
• If such isn’t available, you should make sure that when your anchor is up, and the windlass is not in use, the rope rode is attached to a load-bearing point. That is also a way to prevent the anchor from unexpectedly deploying.
• For electrical devices, always shut off the circuit breaker when you are working on your windlass and when you’re not using it.
• Make sure to tie the rode to a strong point when you’re at anchor.

Common Problems with Anchor Windlasses

These aren’t meant to be considered as disadvantages. We simply want to include all sides of these devices, and the common problems you may encounter using them shouldn’t be left out.

• Sometimes hydraulic windlasses may have a problem with cable wires, which cause a motor failure when you’re trying to weigh down the anchor.
• Bad weather and sea conditions may cause problems for the windlass. That is, flying debris can injure the device. Also, make sure the anchor is retracted or down completely when the sea conditions begin to worsen.
• Another common problem is that chrome windlasses flake off the upper friction of the gypsy. Then, the chain or rope start slipping and are hard to deploy or retract.
• After you replace the windlass, the chain or rope may begin jamming in the new gypsy.

Commonly Asked Questions

Is a Chain Stopper Necessary?

It is good to have one regardless of the type or model of your windlass. Some may not require a chain stopper, if they are powerful enough or if you’re using a strong point to tie your anchor.

Do I Need Any Other Accessories?

It depends on your situation, vessel, anchor rode. Aside from the device, you may also need to purchase: chain stopper, circuit breakers, toggle switch, wires, a news anchor rode, etc. However, if your boat has everything ready and you just need the windlass, you won’t have to invest in additional items. What is more, if you are looking for an anchor as well as a windlass, be sure to check our top boat anchor reviews and buying guide , so you can easily pick the right one for your vessel.

We must end our comprehensive guide here. Now that you’ve reached its end, you are more aware of what the  best anchor windlass  for your boat is. As you see, we at The Marine Mag strive to provide our readers with easy-to-digest information on various marine equipment. We also do our best to deliver up-to-date information, and we also regularly update our  anchor windlass reviews .

So, please, if you found our post useful, say a few nice words in the comments below. Also, if you have some questions or any other kind of feedback that you wish to share with us, feel free to do so. We would greatly appreciate it.

Leave a Comment Cancel reply

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

1-24 of 300 results for "Boat Windlasses"

Lewmar V700 12V Vertical Windlass for 1/4" G4 Chain, Fall Safe Gypsy, Maximum Pull 700 lbs., 316 Stainless Steel Construction, IP67 Rated Housing, for Powerboats and Sailboats 20'-30' - 2020201176

Lewmar Pro Sport 550 12V Windlass for 1/4" G4 Chain, Manual Freefall, Maximum Pull 550 lbs., Port Side Mounted Gypsy, for Boats 20'-30' - 2020201167

Five Oceans Horizontal Windlass Kit, Boat Anchor Windlass Atlantic 600 Watts, 12V DC, Max Limit Pulling Power 1200 Lb, Solenoid, 60A Circuit Breaker, Up/Down Foot Switch and Rocker Switch - FO3930

Lewmar 12V/700-Watt Pro-Series Gypsy with 316 Stainless Steel for Boats 20'-38' with 1/4" G4 Chain, Max Pull 700 lbs. - 2020201157

Five Oceans Horizontal Windlass Kit, Boat Anchor Windlass Atlantic 900 Watts, 12V DC, Max Limit Pulling Power 1650 Lb, Solenoid, 80A Circuit Breaker, Up/Down Foot Switch and Rocker Switch - FO3442

Lewmar Pro Fish 700 Fishing Windlass for 1/4" G4 Chain, Auto Free-Fall System, Maximum Pull 700 lbs., 316 Stainless Steel Construction, for Boats up to 38' - 2020201159

Maxwell RC8 12V Windlass - 1000W 5/16 Chain to 5/8 Rope

Five Oceans Windlass Kit, Boat Anchor Windlass, 12V DC, Includes Solenoid, Circuit Breaker, Up/Down Foot Switch and Rocker Switch, Vertical Series

12V Up to 35 LBS Electric Marine Anchor Winch, Saltwater Boat Anchor Windlass Kit, Heavy Duty Towing Winches for Fishing Boat Pontoon Boat (Black, 35 LBS)

Lewmar Profish 1000 Free Fall Windlass 9/16"LINE 5/16"G4

45 LBS Electric Boat Winch with Wireless Remote, Boat Electric Windlass Anchor Winch Marine, Boat Anchor Winch Trailer Winch for Boats, White

Powerwinch Sport Fishing 450 Freefall Anchor Windlass

2 Pcs Marine Boat Anchor Windlass Winch Foot Compact Switch Up & Down

Powerwinch Class 36' Automatic Helm-Operated Free-Fall Windlass

Pactrade Marine Boat Heavy Duty Covered Plated Brass Windlass Foot Switch 4" Diameter

Powerwinch Freefall Anchor Windlass 41' Class

Anchor Remote Windlass Wireless Switch Boat Sail Trim Controller

Lewmar Guarded Rocker Switch for Controlling Up/Down Function of Boat Anchor Windlasses, 12/24-Volt DC, 5-Amp - 2020201443

Acouto Windlass Deck Foot Switch 2pcs Boat Anchor Windlass Foot Switch Cover Up and Down with Screws

Lewmar Pro-Series 12V/700-Watt Horizontal Windlass Kit for Boats 20'-38' with 1/4" G4 Chain, 7"W x 5-3/4"H x 9-3/4"L, Max Pull 700 lbs. - 2020201174

Five Oceans Boat Anchor Windlass Switch, Controlling Up/Down Function of Boat Anchor Windlasses, Waterproof, 12 Volts, SPDT 3-Terminal Switch, Stainless Steel Plate

Lewmar CHSX Deck Switch with Open Lid for Boat Anchor Windlasses, 12/24-Volt DC, IP67 Rated Water Resistance - 2020204657

Lewmar Pro Series Gypsy RC 5/16" G4 in Chromed Bronze – Replacement Gypsy for Pro-Series 700/1000 and Pro-Fish 700/1000 Windlasses, Made from Chrome Plated Bronze

• Free Shipping by Amazon Get FREE Shipping on eligible orders shipped by Amazon
• Any Department
• Sports & Outdoors
• Sports Apparel & Equipment
• Boating & Sailing
• Boating Equipment
• Boat Docking & Anchoring Products
• Boat Windlasses
• 4 Stars & Up & Up
• 3 Stars & Up & Up
• 2 Stars & Up & Up
• 1 Star & Up & Up
• Five Oceans
• $50 to $100
• $200 & above
• All Discounts
• Small Business
• International Shipping Eligible
• Autoplicity ✅
• Jarboys Outdoors & Marine Supplies -AUTHORIZED
• UnbeatableSale, Inc
• UnbeatableSale Local
• Max n Company LLC
• Prime Marine
• Include Out of Stock
• Amazon Newsletter
• About Amazon
• Accessibility
• Sustainability
• Press Center
• Investor Relations
• Amazon Devices
• Amazon Science
• Start Selling with Amazon
• Sell apps on Amazon
• Supply to Amazon
• Protect & Build Your Brand
• Become an Affiliate
• Become a Delivery Driver
• Start a Package Delivery Business
• Advertise Your Products
• Self-Publish with Us
• Host an Amazon Hub
• › See More Ways to Make Money
• Amazon Visa
• Amazon Store Card
• Amazon Secured Card
• Amazon Business Card
• Shop with Points
• Credit Card Marketplace
• Reload Your Balance
• Amazon Currency Converter
• Your Account
• Your Orders
• Shipping Rates & Policies
• Amazon Prime
• Returns & Replacements
• Manage Your Content and Devices
• Recalls and Product Safety Alerts
• Conditions of Use
• Privacy Notice
• Your Ads Privacy Choices

Of all the equipment on your boat, some things are essential, including the windlass. It’s not that Band of Boats doubts your ability to raise the anchor yourself, but since a windlass makes sailing so much easier for you, why do without it?

1 – What is a windlass? 2 – How do you choose the right windlass for your boat? 3 – Manual or electric windlass? 4 – Horizontal or vertical windlass? 5 – How do you install a windlass?

1. What is a windlass?

The windlass is a big winch with a horizontal or vertical axis, whose purpose is to raise or drop the anchor quickly, easily, and reliably. It is located on the foredeck of the boat, and can be driven by a small motor (electric windlass) or a crank (manual windlass).

The winch is made up of two main components: the gypsy and the head. The gypsy is the notched ring that meshes with the links of the chain to hoist the anchor. It can rotate on a vertical or horizontal axis. The head is the smooth drum that raises the rode (textile part of the anchor). Both are driven by a series of gears that multiply the force. Note that, today, most gypsies perform both functions at the same time.

If it is an electric windlass, a gearmotor is added to the design.

2. How do you choose the right windlass for your boat?

There are several factors to consider when choosing the windlass. First, you need to know the overall length and displacement (light or heavy) of your boat to define the dimensions of the windlass. Once this step has been performed, we advise you to compare the traction power required for your boat to the traction power specified in the technical data sheet of the chosen windlass. The windlass power must obviously be higher.

For safe sailing, the traction capacity of the windlass must not be less than three times the total weight of the anchor line (anchor + chain).

3. Manual or electric windlass?

A manual windlass is lighter and cheaper than an electric windlass. It raises a heavy anchor effortlessly, but slowly. It is perfect for a boat without a battery or electrical charging system. However, if your boat is able to accommodate an electric winch, Band of Boats recommends that you have one.

The electric winch provides convenience and safety. It facilitates anchor manoeuvres by one person, and raises the anchor much more quickly. The quantity of anchor chain is also better controlled. Its only drawback is its high energy consumption, particularly when weighing anchor.

Hydraulic energy can also be used to operate a windlass.

4. Horizontal or vertical windlass?

Whether you choose a horizontal windlass or vertical windlass (capstan) mainly depends on how much space you have on the bridge and in the anchor well.

The available drop height is another important factor. This is the free length between the top of the chain bundle and the underside of the deck (see diagrams). A capstan (vertical windlass) needs at least 40 cm drop height, whilst a (horizontal) windlass only needs 30 cm. It’s up to you to assess your possible installation arrangements.

5. How do you install a windlass?

There are three rules to follow when installing a windlass:

• Make sure the gypsy is properly aligned with the roller
• Allow a distance of at least 1 metre between the two
• Maintain the correct angle of the chain on the windlass

The electrical installation must also be adapted accordingly. Because the windlass consumes a lot of electricity (more than 100 amperes) for very short times, an alternator and battery with appropriately sized wiring must be provided.

Finally, the windlass is controlled using a two-button control unit (up/down). You can choose between a footswitch and a wired or wireless remote control.

Band of Boats hopes you now have a clear understanding of the essential role and specific features of the windlass. Don’t hesitate to share your windlass experiences with the community!

Please verify you are a human

Access to this page has been denied because we believe you are using automation tools to browse the website.

This may happen as a result of the following:

• Javascript is disabled or blocked by an extension (ad blockers for example)
• Your browser does not support cookies

Please make sure that Javascript and cookies are enabled on your browser and that you are not blocking them from loading.

Reference ID: 12501823-e9a0-11ee-8ae1-1599c6cfc0f0

Powered by PerimeterX , Inc.

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• About The Boat
• Gear & Maintenance
• SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Confessions from a windlass sinner

• Add to quote

I always hear the official advice is NOT to use your windlass to move the boat to the anchor when hauling up. Likewise, you're never supposed to allow the windlass to take any load while anchoring, or while anchored. I have a confession: Forgive me fadder, for I have sinned... I do both. I almost always use my windlass to pull my boat up to the anchor when departing. And while anchoring, I feather the clutch to halt the reverse progress, and begin the anchor set. I always use the chain stop before I really start digging the anchor in, but prior to that the clutch is taking some load to set the anchor. Am I going to windlass hell? Seems to me, everyone knows they're not supposed to do these things, but everyone does it ... or is it just me?  

MikeOReilly said: everyone knows they're not supposed to do these things, but everyone does it Click to expand...

We always use the windlass to pull the boat to the anchor, but not with any real load on it. We just take up the catenary in the chain, let the boat move forward as the reestablishment of the catenary pulls it forward, etc, until we are over the anchor. Starts out somewhat slow, but really picks up speed as it goes on, particularly if you get good at the timing. This is easily accomplished in up to 20kt wind (maybe more), and we have a high windage boat. Mark  

colemj said: We always use the windlass to pull the boat to the anchor, but not with any real load on it. We just take up the catenary in the chain, let the boat move forward as the reestablishment of the catenary pulls it forward, etc, until we are over the anchor. Starts out somewhat slow, but really picks up speed as it goes on, particularly if you get good at the timing. This is easily accomplished in up to 20kt wind (maybe more), and we have a high windage boat. Click to expand...

I think the point is, the more strain one puts on their windlass, the more likely to break a deck seal or through deck shaft seal. If one’s motor is directly beneath that inevitable leak, it will die prematurely. I do the preliminary set, in idle reverse, with the windlass taking the load. Once all my scope is out and I know it’s set, I attach the snubber to release strain on the windlass, then back down hard at higher RPMs. Retrieving the anchor is variable. If it’s light air and flat water, I can comfortably pull the chain up entirely with the windlass. Just pausing from time to time, to allow the catenary to pull the boat forward or momentum to catch up, is about all the technique necessary. Those light conditions are infrequent. More likely, we put the boat in idle forward for a few seconds, until the person on the bow starts to retrieve the anchor. This signals that the chain has gone slack and it comes out of gear. Once they stop the windlass, the chain has presumably gone taught again, so back in idle forward and repeat. Oh, forgot to mention, before I even remove the snubber prior to departure, I put the boat in idle reverse to straighten it all out on the sea floor. Otherwise, we may snake all around during retrieval. This also gives the chain a brief opportunity to shed some mud. Finally, there comes a point, where the chain is straight down and the 120lb Rocna is still set. You can hear the windlass struggle. I swear that anchor sets like an helix screw to submission, I love it. Our process is for a hand signals from the bow to identify the length markers, as they come up. This way everyone is aware of when we’re close to having to pull the anchor out of the sea bed. Then when the chain is straight down, the helm is put in idle reverse to pull it out and up comes the rest.  

Minnewaska said: I put the boat in idle reverse to straighten it all out on the sea floor. Click to expand...

Horizontal windlass below deck, so we don't have any worries about deck seals. We don't use the clutch to lower ours, just the reversing motor. It has a fixed speed, so is fine for not piling up the chain as we drift back. If we are moving back too fast or starting to turn sideways, I just toss on the short dyneema snubber with a chain hook I use as a chain stop, then continue on when it is under control again. That snubber/hook is also used to set the anchor before putting on the bridle. Our bridle is two legs of 30' long nylon, so don't transmit a lot of force to the anchor. Mark  

Mine is a manual windlass, horizontal. Deploying just means releasing the clutch. I feather it as it goes out, to make sure it is straight, and doesn't go out too fast. As it's deploying I can gently snug the clutch to keep things straight, and to set the anchor. To fully set and dig in the anchor, I hook the chain using a chain hook that is attached to a well-supported hardpoint forward of the windlass. It's my chainstopper. It's here that I dig the anchor in. I've never tried to attach the snubbers first, and then dig it in. I can't see that working very well since the snubbers are so elastic. With the chain on the hardpoint, I can pull till it's bar-hard, and maintain the pull till I'm satisfied.  

MikeOReilly said: I've never tried to attach the snubbers first, and then dig it in. Click to expand...

Maybe snubber was the wrong term. It is ~12" of dyneema with a chain hook on it attached to a hard point. Basically a chainstopper like you use. Mark  

colemj said: Maybe snubber was the wrong term. It is ~12" of dyneema with a chain hook on it attached to a hard point. Basically a chainstopper like you use. Click to expand...

"Do not use windlass to move boat" is like "Do not dry pets in the microwave" or "Anchor may not function properly while wet". Previous generations were plagued with labels that could not be removed "under penalty of law".  

I've done both for as long as I can remember. With any change in direction on the anchor rode, the direct pressure on the windlass is minimized, so I can't see the harm in calm weather. I pull the catenary out of the chain with the windlass, then wait for the boat to slide forward and repeat. Since I never back down on my anchor, letting the weight of the boat set it, I do not see undue strain on the windlass itself when anchoring. I always use a snub when anchored. But, when it's 03:00, blowing up half a gale, raining seals and dolphins, in an onshore wind because of a squall, we all probably abuse our windlasses, by necessity, and that's where installing the very best windlass one can afford is a great addition to your anchor tackle that doesn't (shouldn't?) go into the drink. So, if you are going to windlass hell, can we share a taxi?  

capta said: But, when it's 03:00, blowing up half a gale, raining seals and dolphins, in an onshore wind because of a squall, we all probably abuse our windlasses Click to expand...

So, it seems I'm in good company. Why then, is it so often repeated, never to use the windlass to bring the boat up to the anchor. It's so often repeated, yet like speeding or a little tax evasion, we all seem to do it anyway. One thing I do is make sure there is no load on the windlass while anchored. I use a double-snubber, each tied independently. This takes the load all the time. The chain is then attached to a reinforced hook forward, so this is a backup should both snubbers fail. And finally, I usually take the chain off the windlass, and put it on a cleat, so if all else fails, the deck cleat takes the load.  

MikeOReilly said: Why then, is it so often repeated, never to use the windlass to bring the boat up to the anchor. It's so often repeated, yet like speeding or a little tax evasion, we all seem to do it anyway. Click to expand...

I think the rule does not apply to a manual windlass.  

The joys of summer-only freshwater cruising with a relatively small boat: My ground tackle is 50 feet of chain with 200 feet of rope. I get to cleat off the anchor rode when the anchor is set, no snubber needed. I abuse the windlass only when hauling up. Also, my windlass is vertical and not electric. Does that mean there's less risk of breaking things when I abuse it? Doesn't matter: I've been operating under that delusion regardless.  

We are serial windlass abusers. We can just NOT get our deification together when it comes to anchoring. Please, no advice. It is fruitless. any explanation would sound like a bus running over an endless row of bodies. So with that prelude, we routinely do every thing you are not supposed to. Drag the boat up the the anchor and then just rip it out. Its a 125lb Mantus so that ain’t for nothing sometimes. The windlass is a Lofrans Falcon. It seems up to the abuse. FWIW, generally dragging the (40,000lb) boat to the anchor is no issue. Sometimes in high wind it would like some motor assist. If I van I will get the momentum going while I shorten scope and coast over the chain “up n down”. That will generally break the anchor out. If not I will take some tension on the chain and wait a minute or two for the anchor to release. When picking the anchor you can hear/feel the load come on the windlass. So my sense is when dragging the boat to the anchor it has less load than when picking the anchor. If the anchor is set hard it can stall the windlass. What gets done right is once the anchor is down with most scope out we back down at 1,000 and then 2,000 RPM. This is done with the chain in a lock, no strain on windlass. I then put on a snubber, 20’ or more of laid nylon, and run out some more chain to take the load off the chain. Then the brake is set. So for the windlass to take the anchor strain the snubber would have to break (happens) and the chain lock would have to fail. All these attachments are heavy duty gear.  

You're not taking the load off the chain...if there is chain from the snubber to the anchor. The entire length of rode is "loaded". The nylon has stretch when loaded and and the chain doesn't.  

To take the load off the chain "lock". "Lock" was he missing word.  

When hauling up to the anchor we use the catenary to pull us forward. I can do this in winds up to around 15 knots (never really measured it). After that, it increasingly helps to use the engine. When pulling up to the anchor, our boat will squirl around a bit if I get it going too fast. Sometimes I have to wait to let the boat swing back in line with the rode. Since I’m up there with my morning coffee (second cup, usually), I just stop cranking, and take a few sips while enjoying the morning views.  

In light winds... as you remove the centenary... the chain will reform it again leading to the boat moving forward... slowly. This is easy peasy with little to no wind and almost impossible with wind. So... I have a remote windlass switch in the cockpit when I can use the throttle and steer as needed. I love the windlass... Maxwell VWC1000. It's not "big" windlass.... but all it is doing is pulling up unloaded chain. Even that can be a decent load.  

Las month there was a boat aground in St Martin reportedly because the snubbed broke and the chain ran out. That kind of shocked me as I have had rhe snubbed break a few times. So here is a question for the crowd. How is your chain stopped to the boat? With a purpose designed chain lock? A chain grabber tied to a cleat? Around the gypsy? Or not at all? Do you use a snuber? Going back to Mike's original question I would think that the long term pull and jerk on the windlass from a unsnubbed chain is likely the greatest abuse you can cause. How do you mitigate that?  

I don’t think I have any pics of my chain stop; it’s not the most pictureque part of the boat, after all😉. Basically, mine is a chain hook, attached to a long shackle, that is hooked to a well-backed and bolted hard point just fore of my windlass. I can flip it on and off pretty easily from my position at the windlass. It holds the chain when I’m backing down to dig in the anchor, so there is no pressure on the windlass. Once the hook is well dug in (we hold reverse at around 2000 rpm for a few minutes) I attached dual nylon snubbers, and then let out more chain as needed. The snubbers are set to take the load, but the hook is reset to act as backup if the snubbers fail. I use dual 3-strand nylon (I think 1”) in a bridle arragement. Each snubber is 40’ long, but I usually only deploy about 20-25’ for normal use. If it’s going to blow hard, I’ll let out more.  

Chain hook on a dyneema strop connected to a cleat. "Snubber" is a 2-leg bridle of 30' 5/8" nylon brait. Both legs of the bridle would need to break before the chain came into play. Chain hook is always on the chain when not deploying/retrieving. Mark  

Our set up is the same as Mark’s. Although, in theory, the thimble splice that holds the chain hook could break, without the two legs failing. Certainly not likely. Conditions that might break our 20mm 8-plait snubber would seem likely to have us on watch. When I read that someone had their chain run out, I thought that meant the bitter end departed the boat. Ours is secured in the chain locker by a short rope. It can be cut, if an emergency warranted leaving the anchor behind. It saved us (the bowman) once, when they lost count if where they were.  

We break our anchor out by bringing in chain until the boat is over the anchor, putting on the chain stop, and driving forward over the anchor. This puts the tip vertically and it comes right out easily. Pulling in only the catenary, the windlass runs free and easy. Pulling on the taut chain, the windlass runs slower and with effort. So there is a qualifiable difference. Mark  

colemj said: We break our anchor out by bringing in chain until the boat is over the anchor, putting on the chain stop, and driving forward over the anchor. This puts the tip vertically and it comes right out easily. Click to expand...

So, my takeaway from all this is that we'll all be having sundowners together in Windlass Hell. Should be fun.  

And yes, I've been a windlass sinner hundreds of times. Not if it's blowing.  

My technique for actually breaking out the anchor is perhaps a little different. Mostly we just pull up to the anchor, such that the rode is vertical, and the anchor is directly below. At that point I use the windlass to break it out, which usually works. If the anchor is so deeply dug in that I can't break it out with the windlass, I make sure the rode is taut, then I lock the gypsy mechanically so the clutch is not taking the force. Then, if there is any wave action in the anchorage, I'll let the bobbing bow work the anchor free. If no waves, I use my foot, or sometimes my whole body weight, to stand on my anchor chain*. This simulates wave action, and begins to lift the anchor shank. I keep the rode taut, recovering any gains, and keep pushing (standing) on the rode. *My rode runs from the bow roller, to the windlass, leaving about 10-15 cm air gap. This is how I'm able to step/stand on the rode to gain some leverage. ADD: I forgot to say ... seems obvious ... we use the engine run overtop of the anchor. This usually works as well. Actually, just the momentum the boat gains from hauling in the rode is usually enough to drive us over the anchor and break it out.  

• ?            
• 173.8K members

Top Contributors this Month

• Vessel Reviews
• Passenger Vessel World
• Offshore World
• Tug and Salvage World
• Maritime Security World
• Specialised Fields
• Marine Projects World
• Small Craft World
• Tanker World
• Dry Cargo World
• Boxship World
• Aquaculture World
• Trawling World
• Longlining World
• Seining World
• Potting World
• Other Fishing Methods
• Regulation & Enforcement
• Feature Weeks
• Classifieds
• Book Reviews

VESSEL REVIEW | Sinichka – Electric commuter boats designed for Russia’s Moskva River

A series of three new electric monohull commuter ferries have already begun operational sailings on the Moskva River in the Russian capital Moscow.

Built by Russian shipyard Emperium, sister vessels Sinichka , Filka , and Presnya – all named after rivers in Moscow – are being operated by the Moscow Department of Transport and Road Infrastructure Development (Moscow Deptrans). They are the first units of a planned fleet of 20 vessels that will serve the capital city and other nearby communities. The new ferry system will be the water transport system to be operated on the Moskva River in 16 years.

Each vessel has a welded aluminium hull, an LOA of 21 metres, a beam of 6.2 metres, a draught of only 1.4 metres, a displacement of 40 tonnes, and capacity for 80 passengers plus two crewmembers. Seating is available for 42 passengers on each ferry, and the main cabins are also fitted with USB charging ports, wifi connectivity, tables, toilets, and space for bicycles and scooters. The cabin layout can be rearranged to allow the operator to adjust the distances between the seats and to install armrests of varying widths.

An open upper deck is also accessible to passengers and is the only area on each ferry where smoking is allowed.

The ferries are all of modular construction with each ferry’s wheelhouse, main cabin, and other structural elements being built as complete, separate components. This enables the ferries to be easily dismantled for transport to anywhere in Russia by rail and then quickly re-assembled within seven days.

The ferries are also ice-capable. Recently completed operational trials on the Moskva showed that the vessels can also easily navigate under mild winter conditions with broken surface ice, though year-round operations are planned for the entire fleet.

The ferries are each fitted with 500kWh lithium iron phosphate battery packs that supply power to two 134kW motors. This configuration can deliver a maximum speed of 11.8 knots, a cruising speed of just under 10 knots, and a range of 150 kilometres.

Emperium said the transfer of rotation of electric motors to the propeller is carried out by direct drive. As a propulsion installation, a pulling rotary propeller-steering column with double screws is used. The installation of double pulling screws, with similar power, allows an operator to increase the efficiency of the propulsion system to deliver a slightly higher speed or to reduce energy consumption. This arrangement also provides the ferries with enhanced manoeuvrability necessary for navigating in close quarters.

The batteries themselves have projected service lives of 10 to 12 years and are fitted with safety features such as built-in fire extinguishers and gas vents. Quick-disconnect features allow the batteries to be easily removed for replacement or maintenance.

Some of our readers have expressed disquiet at our publication of reviews and articles describing new vessels from Russia. We at Baird Maritime can understand and sympathise with those views. However, despite the behaviour of the country’s leaders, we believe that the maritime world needs to learn of the latest developments in vessel design and construction there.

Click here to read other news stories, features, opinion articles, and vessel reviews as part of this month’s Passenger Vessel Week.

Related Posts

Baird Maritime

Tags: Emperium Filka Moscow Moscow Department of Transport and Road Infrastructure Development Moskva River Presnya Russia Sinichka WBW newbuild

• Previous VESSEL REVIEW | Ferry Rokko – Second 194m Ro-Pax for Miyazaki Car Ferry
• Next Brighton man to be charged for illegal abalone haul

Baird Maritime , launched in 1978, is one of the world's premier maritime publishing houses.

The company produces the leading maritime new portal BairdMaritime.com , home of the world famous Work Boat World, Fishing Boat World, Ship World, Ausmarine, and Commercial Mariner sub-sites, and the industry-leading ship brokerage platforms WorkBoatWorld.com and ShipWorld.com .

Contact us: [email protected]

© Copyright - Baird Maritime

• Terms & Conditions
• Advertise with Baird Maritime
• Submit News/Leads

• Bahasa Indonesia
• Slovenščina
• Science & Tech
• Russian Kitchen

Check out Moscow’s NEW electric river trams (PHOTOS)

Water transportation has become another sector for the eco-friendly improvements the Moscow government is implementing. And it means business. On July 15, 2021, on the dock of Moscow’s ‘Zaryadye’ park, mayor Sergey Sobyanin was shown the first model of the upcoming river cruise boat.

The model of the electrical boat with panoramic windows measures 22 meters in length. The river tram - as Muscovites call them - has a passenger capacity of 42, including two disabled seats. The trams will also get cutting edge info panels, USB docking stations, Wi-Fi, spaces for scooters and bicycles, as well as chairs and desks for working on the go. The boats will be available all year round, according to ‘Mosgortrans’, the regional transport agency. 

Passengers will be able to pay with their ‘Troika’ public transport card, credit cards or bank cards. 

The main clientele targeted are people living in Moscow’s river districts - the upcoming trams will shorten their travel time in comparison to buses and other transportation by five times, Mosgortrans stated. 

As the river trams are being rolled out, Moscow docks will also see mini-stations, some of which will also be outfitted with charging docks for speed-charging the boats.  

Moscow is set to announce the start of the tender for construction and supply in September 2021. The first trams are scheduled to launch in June 2022 on two routes - from Kievskaya Station, through Moscow City, into Fili; and from ZIL to Pechatniki. 

“Two full-scale routes will be created in 2022-2023, serviced by 20 river trams and a number of river stations. We’ll continue to develop them further if they prove to be popular with the citizens,” the Moscow mayor said .

If using any of Russia Beyond's content, partly or in full, always provide an active hyperlink to the original material.

to our newsletter!

Get the week's best stories straight to your inbox

• Face it: Moscow Metro to introduce FACIAL payment technology
• What does Moscow smell like?
• Riding Moscow’s train of tomorrow (PHOTOS)

This website uses cookies. Click here to find out more.

THE 10 BEST Moscow Boat Rides & Cruises

Boat rides & cruises in moscow.

• Boat Rentals
• Scuba & Snorkeling
• Fishing Charters & Tours
• Water Sports
• Stand-Up Paddleboarding
• Surfing, Windsurfing & Kitesurfing
• Kayaking & Canoeing
• Waterskiing & Jetskiing
• Parasailing & Paragliding
• River Rafting & Tubing
• Dolphin & Whale Watching
• Speed Boats Tours
• Submarine Tours
• 5.0 of 5 bubbles
• 4.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• 3.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• 2.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• 3rd Transport Ring (TTK)
• District Central (TsAO)
• Garden Ring
• District Northern (SAO)
• Good for Big Groups
• Good for Couples
• Good for a Rainy Day
• Budget-friendly
• Good for Kids
• Hidden Gems
• Honeymoon spot
• Good for Adrenaline Seekers
• Adventurous
• Things to do ranked using Tripadvisor data including reviews, ratings, photos, and popularity.

1. Flotilla Radisson Royal

2. Moscow River Boat Tours

3. Sup-Club

4. Akvanavt Diving Centre

5. Diving Center Crocus City Oceanarium

6. CheapRussia Tours

7. Kite School Kiteclass

8. SUP Center

9. Erwin. Reka

11. Easy Russia Tour Guide

12. Lovely Russia Tours

13. Capital River Boat Tours - Moscow Centre

14. Alfa Centr

15. Diving Club Divers

16. Sup Outdoor

17. MORE MOSCOW

19. Soho Sailing Style

20. Mosparokhodstvo

21. Diving Center Crocodile

22. Dive-Project

24. Kosinskiy Children Marine Club

25. Kayak Moscow

26. DIVECLUB CHE

27. FLOW Moscow

28. Moswake

29. Morskiye Volki

30. S-cruises

What travelers are saying

• CheapRussia Tours
• Easy Russia Tour Guide
• Lovely Russia Tours
• MORE MOSCOW
• Insider Moscow Tours
• Flotilla Radisson Royal
• Moscow River Boat Tours
• Capital River Boat Tours - Moscow Centre
• Diving Center Crocus City Oceanarium

Enter your email address to Subscribe.

• Model Showroom
• Parts & Accessories
• Batteries & Chargers

Traxxas Boat Trailer

Transport your Traxxas boat to the lake in style with this fully detailed scale replica triple-axle trailer. Adjustable bunk brackets accommodate either the Spartan’s deep-V hull or the DCB-M41’s catamaran hull. Elastic tie-downs hold the boat securely to the trailer’s lightweight, full-length aluminum frame. You can even challenge your trailering skills by backing the trailer onto the ramp using your TRX-4 or Traxxas Ford ® Raptor R ™ with the included variable-height hitches.