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Locally Manufactured with our Highest Standard. Hatches and Ports, Marine Window Repair, Dinghy Davits, Marine Cranes, Hardtops and Arches. Made in North America. Direct from our factory machine shop to your boat.

In business for over 100 years, we manufacture the world's best Cast Hatches and Ports, Dinghy Davits, Marine Cranes, Arches and Hardtops. We also operate North America's most professional Hatch and Port Repair Facility and we have an extensive Parts Catalogue for many different brands. Our beautiful and robust products have provided decades of service for thousands of boat owners.

Founded in Toronto, Canada in 1921 as a foundry machine shop, our expertise in the marine industry is unmatched by the competition. The spirit of innovation was instilled into our business by our Grandfathers and is nurtured in our children. For five generations, we have excelled at crafting exceptional marine products.  Our systems work safely and reliably, that's our guarantee. Our products are based on scientific investigation, real-world use and decades of experience. The results are Davits and Cranes, Hatches and Ports, Arches and Hardtops that perform and look great. We offer boaters the peace of mind that comes from owning well-engineered and expertly crafted marine equipment.

Atkins & Hoyle is the leading North American manufacturer of the highest quality marine products. Our portlights for sailboats, marine boat hatches, boat hardtops, yacht davits, sailboat davits, dinghy hoists and other dinghy lift systems and marine cranes are unmatched in the industry. Our stainless steel radar arch is modular and fully customizable, including being available in lightweight aluminum and becoming a davit arch allowing you to have a custom boat arch.  We also specialize in marine window repair, including marine hatch and portlight repair; providing complete hatch and port refurbishment, supplying parts such as boat window seal replacement, hatch gaskets, acrylic lens replacement and supplying hard to find parts such as support rods, boat window screens and hatch springs.

• Dinghy Cranes
• Dinghy Davits
• Hatches and Ports
• Poles (Starlink, Radar, Wind)
• Custom Hardtops
• Dinghy Chocks and Cradles
• Parts Department
• Frameless Hatches
• Tubing - Aluminum and Stainless

I have an Endeavour 35 sailboat out of production for some time. Its a testament to the quality of the hatches installed in 1983! This year I replaced some of the support hardware. Brian is great and guided me to what I needed to bring the hatches back into shape. Superior quality and customer support. What could be better? Thanks Atkins and Hoyle

I had been searching for a crane for my sport fishing boat for several months, when I came upon Atkins and Hoyle. From the start, Eric and Brian were extremely helpful in selecting the right product for my application. They made suggestions to me, which I did not even think about previously. Needless to say, they made the process of selecting, ordering and final receipt of their products a breeze! Furthermore, the quality of this crane far exceeded my expectations. I also must share that after receipt of the crane, I had installations issues, which they eagerly worked me through and I could not be more pleased. It's amazing when you can buy a product off the internet and the seller doesn't forget about you after the sale is made. You can't go wrong with Atkins and Hoyle. I recommend them highly and without reservation.

Atkins & Hoyle personal were very helpful in determining the model and specifications for 3 sailboat hatches that were at least 30 years old and even had parts/instructions on proper methods of resealing. I was very impressed for such old equipment. Thanks Again.

Outstanding product, used them from Lake Ontario to the Bahamas and back. Well built, great folks to talk to about your needs

What you can find there:

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Atkins & Hoyle is a premier marine hatch and port manufacturer. With over 100 years of experience, we have the skills, tools and necessary expertise to bring your hatches and ports back to like-new condition. Let our experts refurbish your hatches and portlights.

If you have specific questions related to our services and product, here are all relevant answer to many common questions:

Why are Atkins & Hoyle designs different?

When we designed our products, we chose the best possible processes and materials to give you the strongest, lightest, and most easily mounted system.A system which would mount in a range different configurations. Our castings are our secret to sucess, and what sets us apart from ALL others. This design allows us to add strength where required and take out weight where it is not needed. As a fourth generation family business, the techniques we use were handed down generation after generation. Newer companies, and in fact all other system in the world use a bent / welded design; All Stainless will suffer a reduction in corrosion resistance because of welding. These davits cannot come close to the features Atkins & Hoyle has come to know as standard - customizable, durable, stronger, lighter, and more corrosion resistant.  Our castings are 215-R1 Anodized, a process which hardens the surface and coats them with an Electrical Insulator; preventing Electrolysis due to disimilar metals

What does “safe working load” mean?

Our davits our rated to a safe working load that is well below their tested maximum capacity. This means that we test our davits beyond what we ultimately rate them at because we know that there is a lot of extra load when your boat is on the water. Make sure that any davit system that you are considering quotes only a safe working load and is not simply the useless “maximum capacity” that many other davit manufacturers use. Other manufacturers’ tubing is not stronger than ours, not only because the unique way that we produce our products, but in the fact that the wall is reduced during their bending process. Simply put, all other davit manufacturers overrate their products

If I have an angled transom or large swim platform, how do I get the extra reach that I need?

Atkins & Hoyle davits are fully adjustable, allowing you get the most reach that is possible with a davit system. This is accomplished with our innovative spline casting that locks our modular units after a one time adjustment, thus allowing you to tailor suit the height and reach for your particular boat. Our 1900 model can also have added length to the tubes if you require even more reach, up to 12 inches. Our systems also have the ability to hold the davit away from the rail or transom to give the maximum reach that you need.

Why does Atkins & Hoyle use an aluminum-magnesium alloy?

The conditions and forces that we expect our products to go trough demand that we use a super strong, super light alloy that will not corrode in salt water. The best alloy for these specifications is Almag 35, an aluminum-magnesium alloy. This non-ferrous, anti-corrosion metal alloy is perfectly suited to the marine industry because it is lighter stronger than ordinary aluminum. Almag 35 is the lightest, strongest and most corrosion resistant alloy for marine use available today. It provides a 40% elongation, meaning that instead of breaking, the davits are flexible, absorbing shock loads, it has a tensile strength 44000 lb. per square inch and is 20 % lighter than aluminum

What is the best lifting ratio for a davit?

We believe in providing the highest lifting ratio for our davits. All of davits have a MINIMUM 6:1 block and pulley system, most come standard with a 7:1 purchase. Our 750 lb. Model 5000 has a 12:1 system plus a 6.8:1 winch. All of these purchase systems are designed to give a maximum 30 lb. pull on the rope. This provides 100% safety advantage while other manufactures provide optional block systems that exceed the tolerance of their davit systems. This ensures that you have to expend the least amount energy as possible to secure your tender.

There is no rail on my transom; can I still mount rotating davits?

Yes, all of our davit systems can be mounted in a variety of ways. The universal base mount can be fitted to any angle so it can lie flat against your deck or transom in place of a rail mount.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How to repair yacht hatches and windows

• Duncan Kent
• June 8, 2023

Leaky yacht hatches and windows can make life down below miserable. Duncan Kent explains how to ditch those drippy blues forever

Every boat I have ever owned has had at least one leaking window or hatch at some point and, from experience, no amount of temporary bodging has ever succeeded in fixing it for longer than a few days. In the end, the only way is to do it properly. Despite taking longer, there’s nothing better than knowing you’re leak-free when the skies open or a huge greenie comes rolling down the sidedeck.

Yacht window repairs

Scraping and back-filling will only last a short while, especially when the old sealant holding the glass in the frame has deteriorated beyond all recognition. The typical butyl sealant used for sealing glass into frames and frames to the cabin has a working life of around 20 years maximum. The first bit to go is usually the top strip, where the strong rays of the sun break down the butyl into a crumbly, powdered mess.

Adding sealant after a new hatch has been dropped into place and screwed down

No matter how experienced you might be at removing windows and hatches it always turns into a long, tedious job, so make sure you put aside a few days and do them one at a time to avoid having to tape tarps all over the boat.

If you do plan to remove them all at once, do mark all the components of each window and hatch with numbered tape (including any fixings) as it’s very likely they’ll all be a slightly different size or shape, so you don’t want to muddle them up. Also, mark the orientation of each frame so that it goes back in the same way, ensuring the mounting holes will line up.

Windows will be bedded into a frame which, though also sealed to the coachroof/deck at the end, will almost always be mechanically attached to the boat in some way. Although butyl sealant isn’t particularly adhesive, after 25 years you can guarantee it’ll be well stuck to the coachroof, and it’ll be much worse if someone has used an adhesive sealant on them!

The only way to remove them is by sheer hard graft unfortunately – sliding a sharp blade or sharpened paint stripper blade all around the seal (trying not to damage the boat) until enough of the old seal is broken to allow you to pull/push the window out.

Then a similar process has to be carried out on the frame to remove the glass or Perspex, whichever you have. The frame will usually be in two halves, joined by screws or clips with a backing plate, which will need to be cleaned up and resealed before reassembling.

One word of warning: the frames, commonly aluminium, often distort or even spring apart once you’ve removed the joiners, so it’s best to find a way to retain its shape (template or similar) so that it’ll slip easily back into place once you’ve sealed in the window. I’ve seen people make the mistake of sealing the pane into the frame and leaving it to go off before offering it up to the window aperture, only to find it no longer fits and they then have to either disassemble it all or start grinding out the aperture to match.

Once you’ve dismantled the window and hatch you must remove all trace of the old sealant and clean the frame and glass by rubbing alcohol or a similar non-oil-based product. Beware: some plastic panes, polycarbonate (such as Lexan) or acrylic, for instance, can be damaged when they come into contact with certain solvents, acetone or acids. All components must also be bone dry and solvent-free before you reseal them.

There’s a plethora of different types of adhesive and sealant available today but not all are suitable for every job. For instance, some of the well-known Sika brands of adhesive sealant will stick stuff together forever, which might sound great unless you need to change it a few years later and you have to chisel the component out of the GRP boat!

In rough seas any leaks in the windows will become all too apparent. All windows and hatches will need re-bedding sooner or later

Window and hatch glass is usually bedded in using butyl non-adhesive sealant as it will normally be held firmly in place by a frame, which in turn will be fixed to the boat using screws or bolts.

Butyl sealant is a mildly adhesive blend of butyl rubber and polyisobutylene. It is easy to apply and, remaining flexible, allows plenty of room for adjustment when the surfaces are mated together, unlike some quick-setting products.

In effect, it is used to simply create a waterproof, flexible gasket. Available in both cartridge form or as a tape, it is not unlike putty or chewing gum in feel and appearance, and is easier and far less messy than squirting sealant using a pump gun, although the latter is also available for other jobs.

One advantage of butyl is that it’s fairly easy to remove without the risk of surface damage at a later date, should it need redoing. The not-so-good news is it can be susceptible to UV damage, so in the case of some window areas that are regularly in full sun, it isn’t always the best solution.

An alternative product is silicone, which is an elastic, hybrid polymer. It has all the useful attributes of butyl sealant, while being UV and heat resistant too. Like butyl, silicone doesn’t have aggressive adhesive properties, so it’s important to only use it where there is some form of permanent physical support or fixture.

There are three seals for the opening hatch: the glass to the frame, the frame to the boat, and the rubber opening seal

Yacht window materials

Older boats often had tempered glass window and hatch panes, but these have since been widely superseded by lightweight, shatterproof plastic in most modern production yachts. The most common types used are polycarbonate or acrylic, available in a wide range of thicknesses.

One of the downsides of using plastic panes is that the material isn’t always very UV-resistant, particularly on older boats, leading them to craze over or discolour quite badly. There is no ‘cure’ for this unfortunately, you simply have to replace the panes with new.

Polycarbonate is a resin-based thermoplastic, which is so tough (around 250 times the breaking threshold of glass) that certain types are regularly used in the manufacture of bulletproof windows. It can, however, be scratched fairly easily and can discolour or craze over in constant direct sunlight.

The frames and aged sealant are removed, with old sealant carefully scraped off using a sharp chisel.

Acrylic plastic is part of the vinyl polymer family, also known as acrylates, or simply, acrylics. It is cheaper, less brittle and a little more UV-resistant than polycarbonate.

Neither, however, get on well with solvents, petroleum products such as WD40, or harsh cleaning fluids, preferring instead to be cleaned using warm water and mild washing-up liquid.

he screws were initially nipped up just a little over finger tight.

Both materials can be safely cut, drilled or heat formed into a curve with the correct equipment, although it isn’t that easy for a DIY’er. Frankly, though it’ll add a little to the cost, I would recommend having them pre-cut to fit.

Acrylic is more flexible than polycarbonate and therefore easier to form into shallow curves.

Fitting and resealing

If your pane fits into a U-shaped frame you’ll need to put rubber spacers between the frame and edges of the pane to ensure it is central in the frame and not chafing against it. These will remain in the frame. Then you’ll need similar spacers to ensure an even gap between the frame and pane is left on both sides to fill with sealant. Carry out a dry assembly run first to get the correct thickness of rubber spacers.

Sealant tape doesn’t work too well inside a U-shaped frame so it’s best to use a cartridge or putty knife to force the sealant into the gap, removing the side spacers as you go.

The frame itself can then be sealed to the hull using sealant tape. Clean the window surround thoroughly and then apply the tape to the hull, ensuring you lay tape all around each mounting screw hole as well. The frame should then be pushed gently back in place, lining the screw holes up, and then tightening the screws little by little, moving around the frame by opposing screws to ensure an even spread of the sealant. Do not overtighten the frame as the idea is to use the sealant as a gasket, not to squeeze all the sealant out of the sides!

Leave it a few days, if you can, before cleaning up any excess sealant from around the frames and make sure you don’t use cleaning products that are incompatible with the type of sealant you’ve chosen to use.

Yacht hatch repairs

Re-bedding the frame.

With hatches, the most common areas prone to leakage are the rubber gasket or the seal around the glass where it fits into the frame, so unless you know for sure that the base plate is leaking I’d leave it in place undisturbed. If you do need to remove and reseal the base it’s a good idea to put masking tape all around it before removing it.

This will make it easier to align the frame after applying the sealant, plus it will be in exactly the right place to protect the deck from sealant overspill when you come to replace the base frame, greatly facilitating the clean-up afterwards.

Carefully cutting through the old sealant around the window from below using a craft knife

To remove the base, you’ll have to either slide a sharp blade, paint scraper or a cheese wire around the existing sealant after removing any screws or bolts. You might even need to remove a trim piece or peel back the headlining a little if the nuts are concealed.

Butyl tape is the ideal solution for resealing hatch bases, although a liquid sealant will do just as well provided you carefully create a ring around each screw/bolt hole and ensure the bead of sealant is higher than any frame lip to ensure good contact with the glass.

Once the frame is in the correct position tighten up the screws/bolts just until the sealant starts to squeeze out, leaving it to be fully tightened later once it has cured. This prevents all the sealant being squeezed out by over-tightening the screws when the sealant is molten.

Re-bedding the glass

If it’s just the hatch gasket or the glass-to-frame bond that needs replacing then the base and top part of the hatch can usually be separated by unscrewing the hinges or just knocking out the hinge pin (it might need some penetrating fluid applied first).

On some older models hinge removal can be problematic and getting spare parts for things like knuckle hinges is now nigh on impossible. In which case it’s better to bite the bullet and remove the whole unit. Hatches with riser supports and/or manual clamps are usually simple to dismantle, allowing you to take the hatch top to the workbench to remove and replace the glass or acrylic more easily.

Remove the glass or acrylic by first cutting around the edge seal with a sharp knife. Remove as much of the old caulk as possible, which will make removing the glass easier. Prise the glass out carefully using one or more paint scrapers or something similar with a wide blade. Avoid screwdrivers as they can easily crack the glass.

Once removed, clean the frame and glass thoroughly with a solvent such as acetone, before re-bedding it onto butyl tape or sealant. After waiting for the sealant to dry, you need to caulk the remaining gap between the glass and frame. To make it an easy job to clean up afterwards, always run masking tape around both the glass and frame edges, leaving the gap to be caulked clear.

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Boat window repairs and deck hatch refurbishment

Specialising in the renovation of marine windows and deck hatches. also screen conversions and the supply and fitting of new windows. our services include:, refurbishment and re-sealing of most types of boat window., acrylic or toughened glass re-glazing., restoration of sliding windows and hoppers including replacement channels, weather-strips and seals., crazed acrylic panel replacement., new acrylic windows in a wide assortment of tints and thicknesses., we refurbish, repair, and re-glaze most makes of hatches, replacement of acrylic washboards., we can also supply a wide range of fixings, seals and bedding compound..

We offer a complete removal and refitting service. Although we are based in Brundall, Norfolk, distance is not usually a problem. We have many ways to help you, please don't hesitate to contact us at any time. All the relevant details can be found on our contact page . We look forward to hearing from you.

Windows refurbished by Boat Window Repairs

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Boat Refit & Repair

The experienced team at ancasta yacht services will get your yacht back on the water as soon as possible..

Over the years we have managed yacht and boat refit projects for some of the most prestigious yachts and motorboats, as well as high profile race boats and round-the-world fleets. From the initial survey and quote through to project management and quality control, we can look after every aspect of your yacht refit from start to finish.

Our expert and experienced yacht refit and repair team can also undertake GRP and composite boat repair . From collisions and groundings to general wear and tear, we can get your yacht or motorboat back on the water quickly and efficiently.

Teak Decking

Hatches & portlights, interior joinery, composite & gel repairs, matrix & keel repairs, osmosis prevention & repair.

• Insurance Repairs

Yacht Painting & Spraying

Yacht varnishing, jet thrusters, tunnel & retracting thrusters.

• Anchoring systems

Steering Systems

Davits, gangways & passerelles.

From teak deck refurbishment and caulking repairs to low maintenance teak alternatives, our boat builders offer a range of deck repair services including complete traditional or pre-made teak decks.

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Control of light and ventilation is key to cabin temperature, and your comfort below deck. As an Approved Lewmar installation and Service Centre, we offer a comprehensive range of high quality hatches, portlights and shades.

Lewmar - approved gold installer

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From built-in storage solutions and bespoke joinery, to interior redesigns and galley refits, our experienced boatbuilders can help you to transform the interior of your yacht. Our workshops incorporate a 150m2 well equipped woodmill.

Composite repair work requires expert knowledge and skill to ensure a seamless finish. With a dedicated laminating workshop our team can accommodate a wide range of gelcoat work ranging from full structural reconstruction to cosmetic hull and deck work, for both GRP and carbon.

Slamming, grounding, over-stressing a hull in rough conditions, and hard racing can all cause damage to the inner keel matrix. The keel, keel bolts and matrix should be inspected annually to identify possible areas of de-bonding or areas of damage. In the event of damage being identified, as a professional repair yard, we can assist with a structural repair to meet your surveyors specification.

Osmosis is usually identified by the surface of a boat's hull starting to blister; to avoid this occurring you may consider protecting your hull with our anti-osmosis gel shield and epoxy coating. If it's too late for a preventive approach, then we offer an extensive repair treatment.

Yacht Insurance Repairs

With over 45 years experience, undercover storage for yachts up to 80ft with a dedicated paint bay, a large well equipped wood shop, engineering workshop and well stocked stores, we regularly carry out boat repair work on behalf of all major insurance companies.

Approved Insurance Repairers for Pantaenius

We offer a variety of yacht painting services in our dedicated paint bay, from small damage repairs to complete resprays for yachts and motor boats of all sizes. Working with the world’s best marine paint systems, our fully qualified paint application specialists with over 20 years experience offer a high level of expertise and service.

From deck brightwork to a glass finish on a yacht’s superstructure, our varnish specialists will ensure your boat not only looks beautiful but is well protected from the elements too.

Bow and stern thruster systems from Jet Thruster offer an innovative and quiet solution to make docking more comfortable and professional. A flexible system that can be added to the bow and stern with flush composite thro-hull thruster nozzles, and no moving parts under the water line for safety. Suitable for both shallow and deep keeled boats and easy to install. As a Jet Thruster UK Distributor we can offer parts or a full supply and fit option. Please talk to our team about the best solution for you.

Jet Thruster – UK Distributor

Manoeuvring in marina’s can be tricky, but the addition of a bow or stern thruster can compensate for external forces such as wind and current, making docking simple. A range of thruster solutions are available, including tunnel thrusters, retractable thrusters, and custom solutions.

Lewmar - approved gold installer Quick –installation and service agent

Anchoring Solutions

To fully enjoy a peaceful night at anchor you need absolute confidence in your ground tackle. Our team can guide you through the options available from galvanised or stainless anchors and chain options, to the correct windlass and bow roller for your boat, and safety measures such as chain stoppers, cleats and other mooring points.

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Regular maintenance of your steering system is vitally important - from rudder and shaft inspection to the replacement or overhaul of rudder bearings. A general service can correct alignment issues and avoid failure at critical moments. Autopilots are invaluable on long passages, and today have become an integral part of a yacht’s navigation system. Whether you’re looking to upgrade your steering system, or simply replace components such as wheels, pedestals or drives our knowledgeable team can assist.

To enhance your experience onboard, we offer a wide range of davits, gangways and passerelles as an elegant solution for launching tenders and jet skis, or boarding when stern to.

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Ancasta yacht services ltd.

Port Hamble, Satchell Lane, Hamble, Southampton, SO31 4NN

The Port Hamble AYS Office with stunning views overlooks the River Hamble. This is a prime location in the beautiful breathing space between the cities of Southampton, Winchester and Portsmouth.

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Boat Windows, Hatches & Screens

We manufacture boat windows, hatches, screens, washboards, polypropylene tanks, instrument panels, flybridge screens etc. We understand the importance of a rapid response particularly if the vessel is vulnerable to adverse weather or theft. This is why we can usually operate a fast service on request for replacements.

REPLACEMENT BOAT WINDOWS, HATCHES & SCREENS

We stock many variants of marine grade perspex/plexiglas/polycarbonates etc. Clear, tinted, coloured, patterned, mirrored, solvent resistant and unbreakable materials are all available from stock in a wide range of thicknesses varying from 3mm – 20mm.

Our moulding oven is the largest in the area and enables us to produce curved/shaped screens in excess of 3 metres in length. If you are unable to supply the moulding required, Port Synthetics are able to produce tooling for all mouldings.

Below are some of our custom built marine fabrications, for more infomation about the different services we can provide for the marine industry please contact us via our contact us page.

We are currently offering a free of charge templating service Monday-Thursday 9am to 5pm Friday 9am to 2pm Saturday by appointment 10am-12noon We will take a template of your old window / washboard/ or companion way while you wait! Take them back and secure your pride and joy. Either call us on 02392 269788 or use the link below to  book a time.

Replacement Boat Washboard – Before & After

Below you can see an old wooden boat washboard a customer came to us with, and next to it the brand new plastic boat washboard we replaced it with. Lightweight, modern and allowing lots of light inside, this is a great example of the ideal replacement boat washboard – and a very happy customer!

Boat Hatch and Washboard, from the inside and outside

View from inside.

View From Outside

Vandals smashed screen with brick

New screen moulded and refitted

Windows Perspex/acrylic windows are a light and durable alternative to glass. We are able to cut to your specific shapes, from either your existing windows or templates. We can provide drilled & countersunk holes, polish/bevel edges to suit your individual requirements.

Washboards We manufacture 1, 2 & 3 part washboards in Perspex/acrylic, which allows light into your cabin whilst keeping it secure. Using a tint ensures you maintain a level of privacy. Unlike wood, acrylic will not rot or deteriorate.

Hatches Port Synthetics supply new acrylic panels to replace your old crazed/discoloured hatch.

Marine Mirrors New! Synthetic glass, scratch and moisture resistant. 50% lighter than glass, 10 x more impact resistant than glass. No more edge desilvering, easily machined, drilled, jigsawed etc. Cut to shape panels, delivery available. See more info here: https://www.rehau.com/gb-en/fabricators-installers/surfaces/glass-laminate/rauvisio-crystal-mirror

Flybridge Screen Replacement

• We specialise in replacement Flybridge screens and fully understand the frustration of being unable to replace your screens through your boat manufacturer.
• With over 85 years of knowledge in the marine screen industry we are able to offer you a service second to none!
• Our oven forming, tooling and computerised CNC machine routing to shape facilities are ranked among the highest in Europe.

Boat Mirrors - the traditional glass mirror vs our new marine mirrors - see the difference!

If you have any questions about our marine fabrications please contat us at [email protected]

ACRYLIC – Trade names Perspex, Plexiglas, Altuglas etc

Available in

• clear 2mm – 50mm
• tints 3mm – 15mm

Used mainly for windows, hatches, washboards & screens

• 10 year warranty
• 30 times stronger than glass but a fraction of the weight

POLYCARBONATE – Trade names Makrolon, Lexan, Marlon etc

• clear 1mm – 12mm
• tints 3mm, 4mm, 5mm & 6mm

Used mainly for wrap around speedboat screens (3mm/4mm thick), which are able to be cold bent to suit.

In general we do not recommend the use of polycarbonate in a marine environment as the softer surface scratches much easier than that of acrylic. However, in extreme cases where impact strength is paramount, we can supply this material with an abrasion resistant coating, although this is much more expensive option.

Boat Windows – When to Fit a Replacement Window

Taking care of your boat windows (also known as marine windows) is a great way to avoid having to do the boat windows replacement procedure due to disrepair. Having ports or windows in your boat serves a variety of purposes, they add appeal, light, and can increase the value of your boat. Ports are generally smaller than boat windows, with some windows being as large as those found in a home. Regular repair is also recommended especially if your boat spends a significant amount of time in a salt-water environment as this can damage parts of the boat windows themselves, as well as the surrounding parts.

Essential Maintenance of Your Marine Windows

A ll types of boat windows are going to require maintenance and parts will need to be replaced if they become damaged. For example, seals are an important part of the boat windows and are often overlooked; they are designed to help keep moisture out of the boat by forming a tight seal around the window. Salt air can be damaging to the wood, fabrics, fittings and plastics in a boat. To avoid the type of damage that comes from prolonged exposure it is important to check the ports and boat windows for cracked glass  / acrylic panels or damaged seals and fittings.

Do Your Boat windows Have Seals?

M ost boat windows have a seal . In some cases, they will have two, one for between the glass and the window frames and the other for between the frame and the hull of the boat. If there are cracks in either of the seals, the window can be compromised. Even if these cracks do not let in potentially damaging salt air it can cause moisture to build up between the window frame and the hull and can cause mould and mildew to grow. If your boat is wood, it can even cause the wood to rot if there is prolonged exposure.

Keep Them Water Tight

Rubber is one of the common materials that are used to make watertight seals on ports and boat windows. If they are not cared for they can end up drying out and cracking. When this happens, the seals need to be replaced. If a seal has been damaged for an extended period, you may end up needing to replace the entire window. Replacement does not have to be limited to times where you find damage. There are other reasons to consider replacing your boat windows. Boats generally have enclosed cabins, ports and boat windows are one of the easy ways that airflow is provided to cabins.

Reducing Your Costs

Ports and boat windows can be as energy efficient as windows designed for homes. You can purchase windows with double paned or thicker glass, although clear or smoked acrylic panels are often preferred for value and durability. This can help to insulate the cabin from outside changes in temperature. Damage is not the only reason for boat windows to be replaced. Many people consider replacing their marine windows and ports as a way to reduce fuel and energy expenses by insulating the cabin. When your boat windows and ports are in good repair they provide significant benefit to you and your boat. Boat Windows help to protect against outside temperatures, damp creeping in and help to keep the inside protected and provide light and air to the cabin.

In Summary About Boat / Marine Windows

First of all, if you need help, advice or a quote Contact Us Here. Acrylic is a light weight tough material that is often preferred to glass when mariners decide to replace their boat windows. just make sure that you replace your Boat Windows before you develop major problems.

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How to Rotate or Replace a Boat Hatch (And Reasons You Should)

Boat hatches can make or break a boat. However, when considering boat maintenance and appearance, we tend to overlook their functionality. Really, they should be at the top of any old salt or  new boat owner's mind to upgrade or repair.

Why? Well, for several reasons, both practical and cosmetic. 

• A cracked boat hatch with a faded tint cramps your boat's curb appeal.
• A boat hatch that opens in a bad direction limits your deck space.
• A boat hatch with degraded or poorly applied sealant can cause water damage.

With any of these hatch issues, you might need an upgrade. That's why it's time to consider your boat hatches.

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Reasons to Rotate or Replace a Boat Hatch

You don't have to live with the features you're given. There are options for customizing to your needs that are still in the realm of DIY.

However, don't just ditch the hatch because you're scared to replace it. The process is easy for any handy boater, and you'll reap all the benefits of the hatches' ventilation efforts.

For example, is there anything better than lounging in the V-berth, enjoying the breeze and night sky while safe from mosquitos and other buggy creatures? Not that I can tell!

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Broken Boat Hatches Invite Leaks

Serious damage occurs when boat hatches become damaged. When sealant between the hatch and the boat is no longer watertight, water leaks through, sometimes within a solid radius of the hatch itself inside the cabin.

Imagine blasting through waves and having water crash over a deck hatch that isn't watertight. What kind of damage could that do to your boat?

One signal boat hatch that needs replacement or repair is a drop in the boat. If you see this, investigate further so the problem doesn't snowball.

Liveaboarders are around enough to witness a drip, but for casual cruisers, you'll need more proactive testing.

On our boat, we test all hatches and ports at the beginning and end of each season by spraying them with a hose  and nozzle .

This method's great for testing specific joints in the hardware, though it's a two-person job: One person points the hose at a joint and slowly works their way around the hatch. The person is inside the cabin and inspects for leakage.

This simple inspection takes minimal time and could avoid damage in the long run if your hatch does have a problem. Make hatch inspection a part of your preventative boat maintenance each season. If you do come across leakage, get it done sooner rather than later.

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The Boat Hatch Encounters Obstacles

Did you know boat hatches open in more than one direction? In fact, do you know what direction your boat hatches open? Take notice the next time you're on your boat.

When it opens, does it get in the way of objects on deck like solar panels or sail bags?

Just because the hardware setup worked for the boat's previous owner doesn't mean it'll work for you. The best thing is, you don't have to live with it. You can move, rotate or replace your hatch so it isn't in your way anymore.

These annoying obstacles can really add up when boating, so don't be afraid to customize your boat to fit your workflow, especially if you're restoring a boat and replacing parts anyway.

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The Boat Hatch Blocks Wind and Ventilation

Do you find yourself battling against the wind to get the hatches open for a bit of fresh air? If you find your hatches annoying, the best option is double-opening boat hatches , which change directions.

Double-opening boat hatches offer many advantages like minimizing the water splashing into the cabin, but they're excellent at optimizing air ventilation.

When we first got the boat, we had no idea these magical double-opening boat hatches existed until we started looking into replacements. Now, they're certainly on my sailor's wish list!

If you're avoiding spending time and money to find or order custom double-opening hatches to fit your boat, there's another solution to optimize ventilation.

Check out this  Windscoop Ventilator (check price on Amazon) and West Marine's Down-the-Hatch Ventilating Sail  as wind-harnessing alternatives.

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How to Replace Boat Hatches

When both arms on the hatch above my V-berth cracked, I immediately went into "avoid the big expensive project" mode. I kept it shut and wrote it off for another season.

However, upon speaking to other boaters about the issue, they assured me that replacing a boat hatch was as easy as pie. Today, I'm glad to add hatch replacement to the list of surprisingly easy boat DIYs.

The Tools and Parts You'll Need

• Replacement hatch parts
• Marine sealant/caulking
• Screwdriver and the proper screws for your boat
• Wide painters tape (check price on Amazon) to catch excess sealant (You'll be thankful to have this, cleanup will be easier!)
• Garbage bag and tape (or similar) to protect the cabin below the hatch from debris
• Electric sander or a traditional  sanding block (check price on Amazon)
• Paint stirrer, plastic knife, or anything to scrape off excess sealant

Once you have these tools set aside and ready to go, roll up your sleeves and get ready to install your boat hatch.

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Steps for Installing a Boat Hatch

1. Cover the hatch from the cabin interior. This ensures no debris falls into the cabin. You can use something as simple as a garbage bag taped up to the cabin ceiling.

2. Remove hatch arms so that the hatch opens and lays flat on the deck.

3. Unscrew and remove the hatch from the deck. You might have to pry it up with a flat screwdriver, depending on the strength of the caulking.

4. Scrape off old caulking using a chisel or paint scraper.

5. Sand down the surface lightly to completely remove all old caulking.

6. Wipe away all dust or particles and get the frame clean.

7. Inspect for wood rot in wooden decks or frames. Check out this video for visual reference . If you discover rot, further repairs may be necessary. You might need to do some re-framing before you can install a new hatch.

8. Install the boat hatch . Depending on the hatch style, the final installation process will vary (marking screw holes, making new holes, etc.), but here are the basic steps. First, apply the sealant . Next, lay down the hatch and screw it into place. Finally, allow it to dry for the recommended drying time (check the sealant).

Remember the hose trick I mentioned above? Use it! As a last precaution, test the seal with a water hose and make sure nothing's leaking into the cabin below and all is dry.

Installing a boat hatch might seem like an intimidating project, but you could realistically replace several hatches in a day minus repairs of major wood rot or framing. With two people, the project goes even faster.  

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Better Boat Marine Sealant

Check Price on Amazon  - Better Boat's marine sealant forms a flexible and permanent bond that's resistant to UV light, saltwater and weathering. Use it on boats, pool tiles, windshields, aquariums and more.  

Go Beyond the Boat Hatch

Getting rid of a boat hatch entirely and patching a hole takes a bit more effort. However, if you have a boat hatch that hinders you from standing or stretching out on the deck and need to rid yourself of it, there are a few solutions.

You could opt for a boat hatch deck plate lid similar to this Amarine-made Marine Boat Access Hatch & Lid  (check price on Amazon) , which covers and secures the glass.

Alternatively, you could install a low-profile boat hatch like this West Marine Lewmar Low-Profile Hatch .

Better Boat Nozzle

Boat hatches are often overlooked and, in some cases, even neglected. Whether you've purchased a fixer-upper boat like me or have been annoyed with your hatch direction, replacing and rotating a boat hatch is more simple than it appears.

The next time you begin to hear a steady drip inside your cabin, take notice. Your hatch might be trying to tell you something.

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Resealing boat windows – DIY project on a Sadler 32

• Ben Meakins
• March 2, 2016

Stephen Wallace demonstrates how he went about removing, resealing and reinstalling the windows on his 25-year-old Sadler 32

Leaking windows, drips and dampness are not fun on a boat: children complain, ‘other-halves’ become potentially mutinous and life becomes generally unpleasant every time it rains. Dampness pervades, and token attempts to put off the inevitable eventually expire in their effectiveness. Having tried silicone sealant, Captain Tolley’s and other alchemistic remedies, the plain facts become clear: the butyl sealant has irreparably broken down, and it’s time to reseal the windows properly.

Our Sadler 32 is now 25 years old. Having initially tried quick fixes, we found that they may buy you a season or two, but resealing the glass and re-bedding the frame is the only real answer. When we eventually cleaned out the frames prior to resealing the glazing, we found the old butyl to be completely shot, ranging in texture from mainly flexible rubber at the top of the window to hard black and porous Crunchie-bar texture at the bottom.

Good value We’ve now discovered the considerable length of time it takes to remove, disassemble and clean the frames and glass, insert the glazing butyl with sufficient pressure and finish/cure them – all in all, about 10 days. I’d heard good reports about Eagle Boat Windows, so I contacted them for advice on materials and details of how to do the work properly.

(Their alternative service of professional resealing on behalf of owners is extremely time- and cost-effective, enabling you to concentrate on the removal and reinstallation of the windows.) We ordered a kit from Eagle which included glazing primer and 2kg of two-pack butyl glazing sealant, two tubes of Arbomast BR butyl sealant to bed the frames, gloves, rubber chocking for the glass, scourer pads and a small plastic tool – all for just over £80 including p&p, which seemed good value.

Tools for the job

The Eagle Windows kit (gloves and chocking rubber not shown)

The removed windows, and the tools used in their removal

Removing the window frames from the boat

The window frames on our Sadler 32 were very well stuck in with silicone, so our somewhat painful experience removing them may be a great deal less arduous for you if you decide to tackle the same job.

You’ll need a screwdriver, lots of stripping/filler knives with good spring steel (enabling them to bend), sharp Stanley knife blades/similar craft knives, blue (14-day) masking tape and some duct tape.

On the outside of the boat, use blue masking tape to individually mark each frame component and glazing pane with the window number, orientation and whether it’s left or right (ie 6L↑). It seems obvious, but when everything comes apart this is all you’ll have available to ensure accurate reassembly.

The frame components individually marked up with masking tape, which will stick when wet

Our window frame section is a small ‘h’, with the upright of the ‘h’ forming the flange against the boat – this is normally the only part bonding the frame to the boat. Unfortunately ours had been bedded both on the flange and also the ‘reveal’ return into the boat, against internal GRP surround mouldings. To make matters worse, the bedding was silicone rather than butyl sealant, making the frames seemingly impossible to shift.

The ‘h’ section of the window frame

The good news was that the frames were held in by self-tapping screws rather than inter-screws, so as they were removed they went into individually-labelled clean hummus pots, as did later components.

To remove the frame I first carefully cut the silicone sealant internally with sharp blades at the window/GRP frame moulding interface, some areas being too tight to reach at this stage. Then I went around the exterior of the frame edge with both narrow and wide stripping/filler knives, progressively cutting into the silicone. Initially this cut was to a very shallow perimeter depth, but became progressively deeper as I worked around the frame.

Several scrapers were used in tandem and leapfrogged around the frame

The process is basically one of attrition, alternately cutting around the frame from inside and then outside. There comes a point when you can get the stripping knife into a gap and, using a light mallet, can carefully cut all the way through to the frame, progressing all around. Greater speed can be achieved by leapfrogging the most effective filler knives (often narrow and thin-bladed) and leaving several others in their place progressively around the frame perimeter, gently breaking the seal with the hull.

By rigging up a couple of 200mm pieces of duct tape outside the boat in a small loop from hull to window frame I was able to increasingly move the window frame, but avoided a nasty crash when the windows eventually popped out after gently pressing the frame from inside the boat!

A duct tape ‘loop’ saved a resounding crash as the window popped out!

The boat hull can be made watertight by using polythene sheet held in place by duct tape, which is messy to remove, or blue masking tape (which is better) to create temporary glazing. If you’re doing the work at home, take some old dust sheets to wrap the frames in for safe transportation. In terms of time taken, our first batch of three windows on the port side took a day, and a lot of sweat, to remove. The silicone was tenacious, and at times I wondered whether the frames would come out at all. This experience enabled the second batch of three to be removed in about five hours, so overall you could say frame removal is a two-day job. Yours will hopefully come out a lot more easily if they have butyl frame sealant and are not stuck on the ‘reveal’ as ours were.

Top tip It’s very easy to damage the external hull GRP surround to the frame by being overenthusiastic with the filler knives. Use a couple of pieces of masking tape on the knife itself about 2cm back from the blade edge, or mask the hull with tape to act as a sacrificial layer.

Dismantling and cleaning the window frames

Make sure you have screwdrivers, plastic scrapers, gloves, snipe-nosed pliers, blades, a butyl kit, a suitably prepared work surface, hot soapy water, white spirit and a piece of wallpaper to hand!

Before dismantling anything, lay all frames face-down on a piece of wallpaper and stencil around them. Mark the stencil with orientation and window number. Note the difference in width between the stencil line and the frame itself. When you eventually reassemble them you will then have an accurate guide to the original width, enabling any necessary light clamping to realign them while the butyl is fresh, ensuring accurate alignment of screw holes when remounting back onto the hull. This is particularly important for larger frames.

Stencilling the frames with orientation and frame number

For the next stage you’ll need screwdrivers, plastic scrapers, gloves, snipe-nosed pliers, blades, butyl kit and work surface protection. White spirit and meths now became our best friend: they are very effective. White spirit and paraffin will not dissolve cured silicone, but once most of the sealant has been removed with a blade they will soften the remaining residue, making it more susceptible to removal with a blade/plastic scraper.

With the frames now free of the boat, the real work began: cleaning and disassembling them prior to resealing the glazing. Our aim was to ensure all surfaces were clean and free of oil/silicone so that the primer and butyl sealant could bond properly to both frame and glass. Cut into the butyl all around the frame perimeter on both sides with a new Stanley knife blade. The butyl may be very hard, so white spirit can help soften it. Do this several times to full depth so the glass is released from the frame.

Cutting into the old butyl with a sharp blade

Our channelled frames were in two halves held together by fishplates – thin strips of metal located in the bed of the channel held by screws through the frame. These need to be released to get the frame apart. After mounting the frames in a workbench, the fishplate screws need to be removed from at least one side – not necessarily easy as a result of the unholy marriage of stainless steel screws and aluminium frames!

Take care not to damage the anodising, distort the frame or break the glass when clamping, so use an old cloth for protection. Carefully clamping the frame enables you to get real pressure and turning force on the screwdriver without the head jumping. Pre-treatment with penetrating oil and hot water may help to dissolve the salt/oxide build-up and expand the aluminium.

Separating the frame halves which were held together by fishplates

Next we separate the two frame halves. Clamp just one end of the frame, so the other end is free to move. Wrap a piece of strong, thin material (eg polyester) around the end of a preferably rounded filler knife, then insert this between the frame and glass at the end of the frame. Using a mallet, gently knock the two halves apart, taking care not to distort anything.

To clean out the frame channel use an old, long, narrow screwdriver to dig out the old butyl, then plastic scrapers and finally a Scotchbrite pad together with plenty of white spirit. Clean the glass and its edges. As our frame progressively became cleaner I used a combination of washing in hot soapy water, Cif, white spirit and finally meths to ensure a clean surface. I also tried using a chemical that is supposed to dissolve cured silicone, but in my experience it was either totally ineffective or had an effect of about 1 out of 10.

The hull window opening needs to be as clean as the window frames, so I used a variety of tools and several home-made perspex scrapers (which proved invaluable as they didn’t scratch) in conjunction with white spirit and Cif.

Cleaning the glass and edge using hot soapy water, white spirit and Cif

Resealing the glazing into the frames

Starting now with chemically clean frames and windows, it’s time to start reassembling everything. Drawing a quick ‘chocking’ diagram for each frame may well prove invaluable as a reference source

As a dry-run, first reassemble the glass into the frames with the fishplates fixed on one side only, and determine how much channel-chocking rubber is needed by inserting it into the frame channel base around the glass perimeter to provide about 1-2mm of movement of the glass within the frame. This may take several attempts, and is likely to involve either single or double thicknesses of rubber: ensure they are cut generously to hold themselves tightly in place.

Inserting the chocking rubbers into the channel

For the channel-base perimeter chocking rubber, cut the rubber strip into 8-10mm-wide blocks the (tight) width of the channel and about 1cm long, using a caliper depth gauge as a template guide to ensure lengths are accurate. Fit to the frame as necessary. Check against your stencil of the original frame size and make sure any cramping leaves some movement.

Try to ensure the glass is central and clear of the fishplates. I drew a quick ‘chocking’ diagram for each frame, which proved a useful reference when one or two of the earlier frame chocks dropped out during handling before application of the butyl. When satisfied with the fit, do a final assembly by putting some butyl sealant bedding compound onto the cleaned fishplates and mitre joints then screwing together. The frame can be left overnight, then cleaned up with a blade dipped in white spirit.

A fishplate covered in sealant, prior to assembling a frame

For the internal glass face chocking rubber, cut short lengths of rubber about 5mm wide and the depth of the channel less about 4-5mm, so when the glass is inserted it will be supported in its internal vertical face but have sufficient ‘cover’ of butyl glazing sealant. I added the number of chocks per side and spacing to the chocking diagram: a useful guide later when inserting the butyl.

We drew a rubber chocking piece diagram for the glass and frames

Use a small (say ½in) brush to apply primer to the inside and outside faces of the frame/glass interface, then set aside for over 30 minutes (but less than 8 hours) prior to filling the frame with two-pack butyl. This butyl has one black and one white component, in our case 1kg each. The white is like a dryish putty and can be cut easily, but the black component is rubbery and deforms before it cuts. I therefore found it easier to measure these by weight before mixing. Wearing gloves, mix these stiff components in equal quantities by twisting and kneading until the marbling becomes a consistent black colour: no need to rush, it cures in days rather than hours. Lay the frame down with the outside face up and firmly insert the butyl into the frame, using a strong rotating action to maximise pressure until it can be seen filling the bottom channel of the frame. Clean off the excess. Turn the frame over, face down, and carefully press the glass down to create a new void all around the frame into which the internal vertical face chocking rubber is inserted at intervals of roughly 75-125mm. These are pressed in below the frame edge but still support the glass: make sure they don’t rotate by using a flat rather than rounded pushing tool. If you have done the ‘face-up’ butyl filling properly these will bed into the butyl at the bottom of the channel. Now force butyl into this side, working around the frame and taking care not to create voids, then chamfer/radius the edges to lap the frame using any convenient tool or knife (clean-up is done some days later). Turn the frame over and chamfer/radius the face-side butyl. While the butyl is fresh, check the frame dimensions against the stencil of the original frame and cramp if necessary. Set the frames to cure, undisturbed, in a warm place for at least a week before cleaning with a soft cloth and white spirit.

Filling the face side with two-pack butyl, using a strong rotating action

Pressing the glass down created a new void all around the frame

Smoothing a radius into the butyl edges with a knife

The frame was cramped to the original dimensions on the stencil

Bedding the refurbished frames back into the boat Finally, the frames are re-bedded back into the boat hull. We prepared each frame for installation using one-pack butyl sealant, which is essentially non-setting and can be cleaned up easily with white spirit.

First, check the fit of the window and alignment of screw holes in the hull opening: thankfully all our screw holes lined up correctly.

The frames were inserted to check fit and hole alignment

Despite our careful stencilling, some of the hull window openings still needed a couple of mm of easing to enable the frames to fit back in. I therefore made a small tool to hold abrasive sheet from a 10cm block of wood and some old aluminium tile trim, which happened to be the same depth as the frame. Any additional making-good of the opening was also carried out at this stage.

An ‘easing’ tool, about 10cm long, adjusted the hull window aperture

Our windows have a slight curvature, which immediately straightens when you remove the frame from the boat. There is therefore a tendency for the central section to be compressed, squeezing out any sealant and potentially giving rise to future leaks. This didn’t seem an attractive proposition after all the hard work, so to avoid this I decided to incorporate small rubber spacers made of some Firestone EPDM roofing material I had been given. It was just over 1mm thick and was bedded in the same butyl sealant a day in advance of installation. Note that this is a non-standard procedure: however, reading the PBO forum, some other people feel spacers are desirable.

Thin EPDM sheet roofing packers (bedded in butyl) were used to avoid butyl sealant squeeze-out

Each frame was prepared for installation using Arbomast BR (one-pack) butyl sealant. This versatile material is intended for ‘covered’ sealing applications and is essentially non-setting, apart from an external skin which forms to a stiff chewing-gum-like consistency after a day or so. It cleans up easily with white spirit.

Cut the butyl nozzle at 45° and apply a 6mm bead of bedding compound on the inside of the window flange in line with the screw holes, forming a doughnut shape around the screw holes themselves. Use a little more if incorporating spacers.

A 6-7mm sealant bead was applied in line with the screw holes, forming a doughnut shape around the holes themselves

Present the window to the hull the right way up and gently press it against the hull, which will create a ‘witness’ around the perimeter. Remove any initial sealant appearing in screw holes in the frame before the screws are inserted, otherwise a hydraulic build-up of pressure in blind-ended holes or inter-screws can occur. However, you may also wish to put a little sealant around the neck of the screw to ensure an effective seal. Carefully tighten the screws, working around the perimeter of the frame, doing this in rotation several times until only a small gap remains between hull and frame. The butyl should not be squeezed out completely or it will leak. Screws should only be ‘nipped up’, not fully tightened. Leave for a few days to harden, then trim using a scraper and white spirit.

So that’s that job complete. It took longer than expected, but will hopefully mean we’re watertight for another 25 years. Now, let’s see about re-bedding the hatch!

Lessons Learned

1: Window refurbishment is a lengthy and labour-intensive job taking around 10 days (excluding curing time) for six windows: just cleaning the frames took two days.

2: Use a professional resealing company’s services if time is tight; this then enables you to concentrate on removal/reinstallation.

3: The two types of butyl were pleasant but messy to work with – prepare!

4: Your technique will improve as you do more windows, so do the job in a couple of batches.

5: There’s more to this job than meets the eye, but it’s well within the capabilities of a practical boat owner!

Please use the quotation page to receive a quotation for your work.

Hermitage Lane, Barming, Maidstone, Kent

As a boat owner and having worked in the marine industry for many years I know that there is nothing more irritating than a leaky window or hatch.

Help is at hand, contact me with your window or hatch problem and make it go away. I cover a large area in the southeast of England and can visit in Kent, Medway, Sussex, Surrey & Essex also except work worldwide (contact me for details). You can also send me your problematic window or hatch for service in my workshop.

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Replacement Houdini Hatch

• Thread starter yachtorion
• Start date 5 Mar 2017

I've replaced an old Houdini Super 50 on my boat. I put a new Houdini hatch in to make it a simple drop in replacement. Thought I'd mention that the design seems to have changed sometime in the 30+ years between the two. Not unreasonable! The hole needed a little bit of enlarging, and some of the screw holes are in a different place. No big deal, and the new hatch is much nicer. It has better handles and hinges, countersunk screw holes and a much improved stay. Very happy with it! It just isn't a 100% drop in replacement. So something to keep in mind if changing.  

A friend of mine did not take it as well as you when his ' drop in Houdini Replacement ' proved anything but, with a different aperture and different bolt spacing it could hardly be less like a drop in ! Hence I always tell people going for replacement hatches to double check these measurements with the chandlery supplying them and get the people there to actually measure the things themselves, especially if the buyer is some distance away by mail order...  

Interesting. We replaced our Houdini Super 50 in 2010 from the original of around 1988/89 vintage, and it literally was a drop-in - same aperture size and screwholes were in precisely the same place, which we though was pretty good given the 21 year difference. The changes must have happened in the last seven years. I remember Houdini were very friendly and helpful. Details at our blog below under the Refurbishment | Houdini hatch tab if you are interested.  

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Gladys Houdini was replaced with a Gebo from Sea Teach, adeveritsed as "Houdini drop in replacement"... and it did exactly what it said on the tin...  

I learnt many years ago that one thing you can guarantee with a Houdini hatch was that it will leak and every boat I've had that was fitted with one had it replaced at the earliest opportunity with a Gebo from Seateach as per Gladys post, much better hatches and never any leaks.  

langstonelayabout

Scillypete said: I learnt many years ago that one thing you can guarantee with a Houdini hatch was that it will leak and every boat I've had that was fitted with one had it replaced at the earliest opportunity with a Gebo from Seateach as per Gladys post, much better hatches and never any leaks. Click to expand...

It was a ' Houdini direct replacement ' from Seateach which so wound up my chum; that was a lot more than 8 years ago. I don't know if Houdini changed, or the supplier of the replacement jobs did - as other people say, the last thing I'd replace a Houdini with is another hatch anything like it ! I can say my second Lewmar Ocean hatch had different bolt spacings to the previous one, and they were both pukka Lewmar from Seateach, which was annoying of Lewmar to do but at least the hole in the deck was the same.  

Scillypete said: I learnt many years ago that one thing you can guarantee with a Houdini hatch was that it will leak... Click to expand...

Sticking up for Houdini a little bit... The hole enlarging was very minor. Only a couple of mm. On my boat, it was quick and easy with a carbide paint scraper. Drilling the new holes was easy, most still lined up. The old holes are underneath the neoprene tape I used as a seal. I'll poke some filler up into the spare old holes in due course. I poured a lot of water over the top and it seems good for now. I think the improved design is worth the hassle. It's not unreasonable for a project to change over the course of 40 years. The old hatch was leaking in three places. The seal between metal frame and deck - the sealant had crumbled away. The rubber seal between the frame and hatch itself has decayed. It's also leaking between the frame and glass. It's this last leak that's fatal as Houdini consider it non-servicable. I agree all Houdini Hatches leak in the end - I'm not bothered though - the old hatch had lasted 30 years. If this one does the same I'd see it as good value. The hatch is near an oil lamp. I'm more confident in having the glass than the acrylic near a minor heat source. The quality of construction of the new hatch compares well with other brands I've seen.  

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Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, UK

Lewmar Hatch - pre/post refurbishment

Updated: Jan 19, 2023

I thought I'd show how refurbishment can transform an old hatch into a good as new refurbished one. The subjects here are a pair of Lewmar Superhatch Size 50 lids (1982-87), though the same could apply to later Rollstop (1987-92) and Ocean (1992-) models.

These had clearly been leaking through the acrylic/frame seal for some time and had been smothered with both tape and clear silicone in an effort to arrest the leaks, one presumes with limited success. They were thus sticky and dirty....

First job is to remove the handles and hinges. On the Superhatch the latter have straps which are fastened through the acrylic with machine screws and recessed nuts. The nuts are slotted and made from chromed brass so will easily split. Best to use some mole grips around the periphery to avoid this when releasing.

Note how the original sealant is squeezing past the acrylic leaving a bead of stickiness on the inside of the lid. Not pleasant to use in this state.

Next we remove the old closing seal from the lid. As with the other models this clips over the aluminium but can be pulled away once cut.

Then it's a Stanley knife around the seal and pop the acrylic out. This will normally just press out at this stage with a hand. Next we remove the bulk of the remaining sealant prior to a proper clean.

Next is a mechanical clean with a blade and rounded screwdriver. This gets most of the remaining sealant off. Then it's white sprit and a suitable abrasive (but not too abrasive) pad to remove the remaining traces. At this stage it is CRUCIAL that any traces of old sealant are removed as the new Silicone WILL NOT ADHERE to old sealant. This is the point where most DIY jobs fail. CLEAN means NO TRACES. Don't say I didn't tell you!

We now have some clean frames looking as good as new. Though they looked a mess to start with this pair actually cleaned up very well with no obvious mechanical damage.

Next Tim fits the new Closing Seal - We have the Superhatch seal specially manufactured in the UK using our tooling (checked by Lewmar) as Lewmar no longer supply this. This is quite a chunky seal so it does pucka up in the corners. This is normal and pretty much flattens out once the new acrylic is fitted.

Tim then cuts the new Acrylics on the CNC, ready for fitting and sealing. Spoiler Alert - I'm not going to tell you how to do this part! The image to the right shows the new Acrylic (Perspex GREY 9T21 tint) in and sealed prior to cleaning. The protective film is cut away from the edges to get a nice smooth finish at this stage.

Lastly we replace the handles and hinge straps, adding a little sealant under the latter to ensure a lasting seal. We then remove the protective film and clean the whole acrylic prior to replacing the film with new for protection during shipping and fitting.

Finally they are ready for another 30+ years of use with the added benefit of no leaks and a lens you can actually see through! Don't they look fabulous and even the hinges work perfectly!

Last but not least, packed and ready to ship in a custom box...

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