mystic 30 sailboat review

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Cutter rig sailing tips?

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I have sailed all sorts of rigs in the past - even a junk rig - but have never owned a cutter before - I know each boat is going to handle differently but in general here are the questions: Manageable breeze - main, headsail and staysail raised Wind picks up -roll up staysail more wind - reef main and keep headsail up - maybe rolling in a bit of it more wind - roll up headsail and roll out staysail Both headsails are on a furler - main has 3 reef points Downwind - drop main and have staysail and headsail wing & wing? Sound about right?  

OK, two of the 5 had staysails, one with detachable staysail rig, the other on roller. IMHO the most useful feature is in heavy wind, getting a balanced rig with the center of effort in the middle of the boat by using the staysail and deeply reefed main only. On both boats, you could beat into 30+ true and get a "comfortable" ride. This is the nice thing about these rigs. Both boats would point best on the headsail alone, but it could be a PIA to tack through the slot. The detachable headsail rig solved this problem, at the expense of a lot of foredeck work to set it up when the wind piped up and you didn't want to be on the foredeck. The roller was nice, you could just roll up the big widow shade and roll out the little one. Sometimes I'd even roll the headsail to tack. PIA. Both boats liked to reach with both headsail up. It was also possible to run with the 2 headsail wing on wing. Your boat maybe different, but both sails up was a reaching only config for me. That could be most of your sailing if you live in the right place.  

For a normally balanced sail plan on a cutter, the OP seems reasonable to me. However, I’ve known some to change the sails to have more of a working jib on the staysail and an over sized Genoa as a foresail. Tacking the foresail on a cutter is a PITA, as you have to furl it back almost all the way first. In the modified sailplan case, the staysail is used most of the time, with the big Genoa used for deep downwind or upwind in modest wind speeds. Personally, I think it’s better as designed. Used to sail a buddy’s cutter and he was constantly doing surgery to the sail plan. He eventually sold it. Self inflicted pain.  

cdy said: I have sailed all sorts of rigs in the past - even a junk rig - but have never owned a cutter before - I know each boat is going to handle differently but in general here are the questions: Manageable breeze - main, headsail and staysail raised Wind picks up -roll up staysail more wind - reef main and keep headsail up - maybe rolling in a bit of it more wind - roll up headsail and roll out staysail Both headsails are on a furler - main has 3 reef points Downwind - drop main and have staysail and headsail wing & wing? Sound about right? Click to expand...

My 2¢. It depends... Skme cutters have the Yankee tack at the stem. Tight between that and the inner forestry. Some have a small sprit, gain a little room for the staysail. Some have BIG sprites, lots of room to stay sail. But all of that also changes the balance differently boat to boat. To answer the question you need to know a lot about the boat.  

Our Westsail was pre roller headsails, everything hank on. Had a slightly bigger than stock Staysail and Yankee, and a high cut reacher drifter. The main had three reef points, the first was a shallow reef with the 2nd and 3rd slightly higher than most Westsails. Thought for the main was to use the shallow reef to lessen weather helm and flatten the sail in winds over 10k. That flattening reef turned out to be a waste as after an initial trial period, always went to the 2nd reef and occasionally the 3rd in strong trade winds. In tradewind conditions almost always reefed the main down to the 2nd reef point. Probably did more than half our sailing with a reef in the main. For relative winds less than 10k or so ran with the reacher drifter and full main. on a broad reach could sheet the reacher drifter to the boom and pick up a full knot because of opening the slot. Unfortunately it was useless going much past a close reach pointing up. Wished we had at least a 100% jib to work in conjunction with the staysail for light air beating. In the trades almost always sailed with jib and staysail. The slot between the two head sails made a huge difference in sailing performance. When winds got to be too much to have both headsails up ran under the staysail alone. Unfortunately that would take a 1 knot plus hit on boat speed without the slot between the two headsail. I tried an overlapping Staysail in conjunction with the Yankee. It was good combo for lighter air but the sheet fouled the forward lower shroud as soon as it was eased off. Had the choice of designing a baby stay to replace the forward lowers or give up on the sail. Decided to go cruising instead of changing the rig. In any case, would have the largest staysail that will fit with reef points to double as a storm sail. With roller reefing and Code Zero/Asyms, would go with a around a 100% jib/Yankee. That's a big 100% sail as 'J' on a Westsail is 18' plus. Build that sail with a foam or rope luff so it could be reefed way down to cover a wide range of wind conditions. Ditch the self tacking boom, the staysail sets way better sheeted to the cabin top on all points of sail. Made two deliveries of Westsails with boomed staysails and spent the whole passage swearing at the damn things. Would have a Code Zero or Asym for lighter air reaching conditions. If I knew I was going to be doing a lot trade wind sailing might have a reefable Yankee Jib as you'd certainly get a lot of use out of it. The problem with cruising boats is storage, you just don't have room for a sail for all occasions. The above wardrobe would cover most of your wind conditions and leave you with only two bags of sails to stow.  

We have a cutter rig with a square top main and can bear out Jeff’s experience. Reefing the main to balance the boat is as important as which of the stay sail or head sail or both you are flying. In the end, the wind determines how much sail you want up front before you get overpowered and then you balance the boat. Our experience has been that the benefit of running two headsails when reaching depends on how big the slot is between them. On the Cigale, there is no discernible improvement from running both jib and head sail. However, when running the Gennaker to the sprit, the jib can be used both for de-powering the gennaker as the wind gets up and also providing more power when reaching in the 70 to 90 degrees AWA range at optimum wind speeds (for our configuration 15 knots of true wind). As for tacking and gybing the head sail, we have found that a little patience and timing allows the sail to be blown through the slot. On a rig with a smaller slot, this is probably not possible and rolling to tack would be a PITA unless you had a good electric furler.  

I don’t know. I think we’re all assessing differently what a ‘manageable breeze’ and one that ‘picks up’ really means. I did not perceive picks up to mean enough to require reefing yet. I think the OP had the general idea and will do just fine.  

Minnewaska said: I don't know. I think we're all assessing differently what a 'manageable breeze' and one that 'picks up' really means. I did not perceive picks up to mean enough to require reefing yet. I think the OP had the general idea and will do just fine. Click to expand...

Have had CD30, tayana 37, PSC 34 in past. All cutters. All sailed very differently. T37 had staysail on a boom. Others didn’t. General rule- trim from front to back. Be very careful not to close either of the two slots. Putting a lot of telltales throughout the luff of all three sails helps a lot as any of three can be stalled but look fine at first glance. Also telltales up and down the leach helps. Sometimes you can’t fly both headsails together without closing the slot. Up to a fresh breeze usually better off rolling up the staysail and reefing the yankee and main if necessary. You usually end up reefing the main more than you think necessary. But flat is fast and surprisingly the boat often makes better vmg, points better and digs less of hole reefed down. Periodically take your hand off the tiller or wheel. Cutters do not tolerate an unbalanced rig at all. Use your running backstays. If staysail stay is loaded get more sag in yankee stay resulting in a bad shape. Same in reverse as it’s even easier to get big sag in the staysail stay.The runner prevents pumping but more importantly makes the yankee flatter, moves cord forward and you get less helm. The tayana had a wooden stick so this was important on that boat. Measure your tensions on the standing rigging. If you don’t get this right the boat will never sail well. I currently have a solent rig. No main and double headsails works great. But on the cutters it was more trouble than it was worth. Rather a light air sail and a main like you would do on a masthead sloop is best. Having said all this love the cutter rig. Comes to its glory in heavy air. Never worried about it then. The ability to quickly and easily reef to double or triple reefed main and full or reefed staysail is huge. End up balanced and in control. Line squalls or continuous heavy air no problem. Enjoy  

I know this is an old thread but is still a very good one. We have a Mystic 30 cutter. It has pretty much been my retirement project for nine years now. The boat and rig are as originally designed. I had the rudder changed slightly to a higher aspect and semi balanced shape. She steers with a tiller. We sail her in the protected waters of the Pacific Northwest. In reducing sail we reef the main first. Then maybe take a roll in on the Yankee. Then roll up the Yankee. Then another reef. We don't take her to sea so by this time we have made it back to port. We like the boat and the rig. A different boat with a sloop rig would likely be more efficient but we are happy with what we have. We have owned four sloops in our years of sailing and I think that the cutter is the easiest to reduce sail and keep going. The stay sail alone is very good at keeping the boat safe and steady all by itself when there's something that you want to do. So I really like the staysail. The cutter rig is sort of a "belt and suspenders" set up so the mast is very strongly stayed. That is particularly comforting with the bowsprit and its vulnerable bobstay.  

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New Boat Owner Help

• Thread starter sailormanbigd
• Start date Dec 4, 2020
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

sailormanbigd

Hello all boat owners. I just purchased a 1979 Legnos Mystic 30 cutter! It looks to be in very good shape. I got it for an insane low price! I can't believe it actually. It is my dream boat. I have some questions for the forum, the boat is on the hard in Ipswich, MA. I am in Central Florida. It is the first week in December and cold. I am hoping and praying to be able or allowed to leave the boat where it is next to the previous owners house for the winter. But in case that is not the case I need help finding a mover and a storage location for the boat. I am the reverse of a wealthy man. Does anyone know whom can lift a boat onto a trailer and reblock it in a yard for the winter for a reasonable fee? It is on stands now but I don't know if I will get the stands too? The owner died and the widow is getting rid of the boat. Does anyone know from that area how much money I am looking at here? How do you New Englanders do it every year? It is very close to the coast and it may be that a very near by marina drives the travel lift over to the house and picks it up? I haven't spoke to the widow yet. Any help gratefully appreciated.  

Will Gilmore

Michael Davis

Lovely looking cruising boat unfortunately not in the right part of the world to offer any insight to your questions. Good luck getting her to her new home.  

I would think the same hydraulic trailer that set it there could pick up and bring to you. Or any hydraulic transport trailer  

thanks for the reply Dragonfly! I spoke with the widow briefly and she is not much help? Not sure of any of it as it was her husbands thing. So i guess I will ask the forumites who they recommend for 1: lift and short transport to nearby yard for storage. 2:best budget storage yard near Ipswich, MA 3: best lift and long haul company to bring it south. 4: best budget storage yard closest to New Port Richey, FL-north of Tampa 5: thoughts of having it launched in Ipswich this summer and sailing it south in stages of 2 week trips? My head is swimming. Oh, no I have not seen the vessel in person.  

thank you Mr Davis. I am Patrick Davis  

yes whatfiero1 that was what I thought. But so far widow of owner not helpful. said oh gosh I don't know. Hoping for someone local to Ipswich for suggestions?  

sailormanbigd said: thank you Mr Davis. I am Patrick Davis Click to expand

google says its 1370 miles from door to door?  

Michael Davis said: We have a larger family than I thought!! Click to expand

I love the lines of the bow. Sort of looks like a whale breeching ....sexy boat.  

rgranger said: Sort of looks like a whale breeching ....sexy boat. Click to expand

Many folks in New England store their boats in their yards, and hire a local boat moving outfit to bring the boat home. Some companies are based in marinas, but others are not. Most use an hydraulic trailer, such as a Brownell, and their fees are reasonable. Sorry to say, I am not familiar with the North Shore area of MA, but a Google search should yield several options for you. If you intend to sail/motor the boat south, better to plan on keeping the boat in the North Shore area for at least a season while you outfit her and make any necessary repairs. I have made the trip from the Tampa Bay area to MA in as little as six weeks via the ICW, but that was a hard trip, being out in tough conditions at times. Figure on closer to 2000 miles for that trip. On my return trip, I took two and a half months, and stopped at a lot of cool places, like Charleston, and enjoyed the trip. Congratulations on your new boat. Exciting times ahead!  

sailormanbigd said: best budget storage yard closest to New Port Richey, FL-north of Tampa Click to expand

Best 23 Boat Yards in Ipswich, MA with Reviews - YP.com

Certified Marine Transport

sailormanbigd said: 4: best budget storage yard closest to New Port Richey, FL-north of Tampa Click to expand

lots of good advice, thank you! I just spoke with the widow for 20 mins. She knows a local guy who got the boat in the past and stored in his lot. Andrew. She is attempting to contact him-hard she says. She really wants it out of the yard as she doesn't want to fret about it over the winter and storms and all-a big one on the way she says! uncovered. And she gave me the name of a company who has hauled the boat previously-Jocelyn marine services, and I will contact them, asap. Keep um coming y'all, I have to figure something out, one that won't bleed money preferred! As another caveat, the Volvo MD7A was running 6-7 years ago when put up but I think now is seized. She said Andrew pulled injector and squirted Marvel mystery oil but couldnt pull the other injector. Always something. I knew the engine wasnt working when I bought it. On the possitive side she says there is tons and tons of stuff that goes with the boat, cushions, sails, some new, garmin, gps , chartplotter, anchor, need a truck to haul it all! Also, Andrew drilled a hole in the bottom for drainage, so I have to install a drain plug thingy. Tarpon springs is nice, but they are pricey and snobbish in my opinion. I would settle for a spot in a field if safe from thieves/vandals. Any place closer to me is better than east MA I think? depends on how much a mile they get? Some cheap place around N/S Carolina, Virginia, Georgia, N Florida maybe. Indiantown used to be cheap but I think they raised prices sky high of late? I have heard Green cove springs is reasonable and about 4 hour drive from me. I have high top conversion van with bed for sleeping, so no biggy there. I have outboard and mount if it comes to that but I think it would be evil to mess with such a beautiful wineglass bum! thanks all. we will figure out something I just know it.  

I would even consider launching and anchoring out for free if a safe place exists? How far south you have to go to winter over on the hook?  

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The Mystic 30 is a 33.67ft cutter designed by Peter Legnos and built in fiberglass by LBI (USA) between 1978 and 1982.

24 units have been built..

The Mystic 30 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a good performer. It is reasonably stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is originally small. There is a very short water supply range.

Mystic 30 for sale elsewhere on the web:

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Particulars

Off center harbor's remarks.

We admit to being suckers for the durable, no-nonsense designs of Peter Legnos. The Mystic 30 is a particular favorite, especially given her 6’3” headroom. No small feat to make work in a thirty footer.

Description from Boat's Main Listing

Classic looks in a fiberglass hull with a modern underbody and 6′ 3″ headroom. This is a sweet-sailing Legnos Mystic 30 cutter with a 2002 low-hour 30 HP Volvo diesel, recent electronics, and new headsails. These boats were built in Groton, CT, to a high standard with excellent hardware and joinery. The boat was heavily upgraded in 2002 and 2003 for extended voyaging and then, unfortunately, her owner passed away. She languished in storage for several years. We acquired the boat in late 2012 and gutted much of the old wiring, hoses, and tankage; and replaced them with modern systems, electronics, and proper marine wiring. She has had all her major common faults addressed. Below is a list of the highlights of the boat as well as a complete list of upgrades and repairs. She is currently lying in Mystic, CT. A great coastal cruiser with a big comfortable cockpit, the boat is quick in light air (17.8 SA/D), and only draws 4′ 3.” Mystic 30 specs can be found at: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/mystic-30

2017- New Headsails (North Sails) 2017- Bottom sandblasted and barrier coated w/Interlux Interprotect 2015- Rudder rebuilt on original frame 2013- All new electrical wiring and Garmin NMEA 2000 networked instruments (wind, depth, speed) 2013- Raymarine spx-5 autopilot installed 2003- New standing Rigging; spars awlgripped; hardware upgraded 2002 – Volvo MD 2030D-BT diesel (currently approx. 850 hours)

Complete List of Major Upgrades and Repairs 2019- New Bootstripe; bottom freshly painted w/ 2 coats Pettit Hydrocoat 2018- Throttle and transmission cables replaced 2018- Interior seatbacks replaced w/custom composite cabinets 2017- New headsails (yankee and staysail) by North Sails 2017- Sandblasted, barrier coated w/Interlux Interprotect 2017- Complete rebuild of plywood keel step w/composite material. New white oak compression post 2016- Re-sealed companionway hatch and installed new seals for bronze hatches 2016- New tri-color running light and deck light 2016- New box for house battery bank  2016- New mast wire harness; new VHF antenna and wiring 2015- Fuel lines replaced 2015- Rebuilt rudder w/original skin and frame 2014- New Rule high-capacity bilge pump 2014- New Plastimo Compass 2013- Installed Luke solid-fuel stove (came from a Hinckley) 2013- New electrical wiring 2013- Removed old tanks and installed new hoses 2013- All new batteries 2013- New Garmin Electronics (3 GMI10 networked on NMEA 2000), added wind instruments & GPS 2013- New Raymarine autopilot 2013- New cutlass bearing 2013- New stereo

(Boat was not used from 2008-2012; stored on the hard in Annapolis) 2007 – Charles battery charger 2003 – Spars repainted (Awlgrip), and aluminum mast steps installed 2003 – Standing rigging replaced 2003 – Steering cables replaced 2002 – Engine – Volvo MD 2030D-BT diesel – new in 2002 (transmission, shaft, prop and exhaust replaced at the same time) 2002 – New fuel tank; thru-hulls replaced

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2022 Mystic M4200

• By Pete McDonald
• July 9, 2022

The wind had been blowing for two straight days at last winter’s Miami International Boat Show, and most of the other captains were reluctant to head out beyond the breakwater of the marina. But Ryan Zivitski, the factory captain aboard the Mystic M4200, didn’t hesitate. So, we idled through a no-wake zone into the only channel where we could try to cull the performance numbers. Seeing as it was the only place to run that was even slightly protected, captains of several other boats had the same idea. Once we pointed the bow toward the inlet and dropped the throttles on the quad Mercury Racing 450s, the confused sea state made little difference. The Mystic M4200 felt ridiculously dialed in as we recorded speeds at different rpm all the way past 86 mph.

It’s no secret why the M4200, the flagship of Mystic’s center-console line, could do this. It’s built like the proverbial brick structure that we can’t name in good company. Start with the double-stepped hull that gives this boat a level attitude throughout the rpm range, combined with the reversed chines that improve lift and deflect spray.

The Kevlar-reinforced fiberglass hull is built to withstand the punishing stress that comes with going fast in unfavorable conditions. When it was my turn to take the helm, I was so calm and unruffled cruising along at 4,500 rpm that it felt like a leisurely cruise—until I looked at the recessed multifunction display in the dash and noted we were at 60 mph and still blowing past other boats.

Interior and Accessories

Mystic builds all of its boats custom to the owner’s preferences, but I can attest that our test boat’s layout was steeped in comfort. The boat’s high freeboard allows for safe passage from stem to stern, and the integrated carbon-fiber hardtop is stylish and strong. The aviation-grade plexiglass windshield and the wind dams on each side of the center console keep everyone in the helm seating area protected during high-speed runs. To wit, I was still able to take notes at 86 mph.

How We Tested

• Engines: Quad 450 hp Mercury Racing 450R 
• Drive/Props: Outboard/15″ x 25″ Max 5 Lab 5-blade stainless steel
• Gear Ratio: 1.60:1 Fuel Load: 278 gal. Water on Board: 35 gal. Crew Weight: 380 lb.

High Points 

• Wind dams on both sides of the console deflect the wind away from passengers at high speeds.
• Kevlar-reinforced hull felt extremely solid in turbulent seas.
• Twin rows of plush triple-helm seats kept the crew safe and comfortable underway.

Low Points 

• While the bow seating area does feature stout stainless-steel grab handles at strategic points, we prefer a recessed bow rail to grab onto no matter where you’re sitting.
• The 300-gallon fuel capacity is smaller than some competitors, giving the boat less range.

Toughest Competitor

The Nor-Tech 390 Super Fish ($1,063,193) is another Kevlar-reinforced speedster that can top 80 mph with quad Mercury Racing 450R outboards on the transom.

Pricing and Specs

Speed, efficiency, operation.

Mystic Powerboats – DeLand, Florida; 386-736-2247; mysticpowerboats.com

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• Sailboat Guide

2017 Legnos Mystic 30

• Description

Seller's Description

Classic Legnos style with a modern, fiberglass underbody and 6’ 3” headroom inside! 2002 30 HP Volvo diesel, recent electronics, and new headsails. These boats were built in Groton, CT, to a high standard with excellent hardware and joinery. The boat was heavily upgraded in 2002 and 2003 for extended voyaging and then she languished in storage for several years. A 2012 refit updated to modern systems, electronics, and proper marine wiring. We continue to upgrade and maintain the boat with attention to detail. She has had all her major common faults addressed. Below is a list of the highlights of the boat as well as a complete list of upgrades and repairs. A great coastal cruiser with a big comfortable cockpit, the boat is quick in light air (17.8 SA/D), and only draws 4’ 3.”

Equipment: 2020 New interior cushion covers Companionway and bow hatches recalked and new Cetol finish 2019Deck, cockpit and cabin painted and new nonskid Rebeded bow rail All Interior storage lockers painted with bilgecoat Interior woodwork varnished New sail covers New Hella Marine Nav lights bow and stern Kover Klamp metal frame boat cover

2017- New Headsails (North Sails) 2017- Bottom barrier coated w/Interlux Interprotect 2015- Rudder rebuilt on original frame 2013- All new electrical wiring and Garmin NMEA 2000 networked instruments (wind, depth, speed) 2013- Raymarine spx-5 autopilot installed 2003- New standing Rigging; spars awlgripped; hardware upgraded 2002 - Volvo MD 2030D-BT diesel (currently approx. 950 hours) Complete List of Major Upgrades and Repairs

2019- New Bootstripe; bottom freshly painted w/ 2 coats Pettit Hydrocoat 2018- Throttle and transmission cables replaced 2018- Interior seatbacks replaced w/custom composite cabinets 2017- New headsails (yankee and staysail) by North Sails 2017- Sandblasted, barrier coated w/Interlux Interprotect 2017- Complete rebuild of plywood keel step w/composite material. New white oak compression post 2016- Re-sealed companionway hatch and installed new seals for bronze hatches 2016- New tri-color running light and deck light 2016- New box for house battery bank 2016- New mast wire harness; new VHF antenna and wiring 2015- Fuel lines replaced 2015- Rebuilt rudder w/original skin and frame 2014- New Rule high-capacity bilge pump 2014- New Plastimo Compass 2013- Installed Luke solid-fuel stove (came from a Hinckley) 2013- New electrical wiring 2013- Removed old tanks and installed new hoses 2013- All new batteries 2013- New Garmin Electronics (3 GMI10 networked on NMEA 2000), added wind instruments & GPS 2013- New Raymarine autopilot 2013- New cutlass bearing 2013- New stereo (Boat was not used from 2008-2012; stored on the hard in Annapolis) 2007 Charles battery charger 2003 Spars repainted (Awlgrip), and aluminum mast steps installed 2003 Standing rigging replaced 2003 Steering cables replaced 2002 - Engine Volvo MD 2030D-BT diesel new in 2002 (transmission, shaft, prop and exhaust replaced at the same time) 2002 New fuel tank; thru-hulls replaced

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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