sailboat rudder construction

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Boat Maintenance

Building a Faster Rudder

Boost performance with a bit of fairing and better balanced helm..

We’re cruisers not racers. We like sailing efficiently, but we’re more concerned with safety and good handling than squeezing out the last fraction of a knot. Heck, we’ve got a dinghy on davits, placemats under our dishes, and a print library on the shelf. So why worry about perfection below the waterline?

The reason is handling. A boat with poorly trimmed sails and a crudely finished rudder will miss tacks and roll like a drunkard downwind when the waves are up. On the other hand, a rudder that is properly tuned will agilely swing the boat through tacks even in rough weather, and provide secure steering that helps prevents broaching when things get rolly. The difference in maximum available turning force between a smooth, properly fitted rudder and the same rudder with a rough finish and poor fit can be as much as 50% in some circumstances, and those are circumstances when you need it the most. It’s not about speed, it’s about control.

It Must Be Smooth

Smooth is fast. That’s obvious. But it makes an even bigger difference with steering. Like sails, only half of rudder force comes from water deflected by the front side of the blade. The rest results from water being pulled around the backside as attached flow. How well that flow stays attached is related to the shape of the blade, which we can’t easily change, and to the surface finish of the blade, which we can.

Remember the school experiment, where you place a spoon in a stream of water and watched how the water would cling to the backside of the spoon? Now, try the experiment again as a grown-up, but with a different set of materials.

Try this with a piece of wood that is smooth and one that is very rough; the water will cling to the smooth surface at a greater angle than the rough surface. Try piece of smooth fiberglass or gelcoat; the water will cling even better because the surface is smoother. Try a silicone rubber spatula from the kitchen. Strangely, even though the surface is quite smooth, the water doesn’t cling well at all. We’ll come back to that.

Investigators have explored this in a practical way, dragging rudders through the water in long test tanks (US Navy) and behind powerboats.

If we are trying to climb to windward, it’s nice to get as much lift out of the rudder as practical, before drag becomes too great or before it begins to stall with normal steering adjustments. If the boat has an efficient keel and the leeway angle is only a few degrees, the rudder can beneficially operate at a 4-6 degree angle. The total angle of attack for the rudder will be less than 10 degrees, drag will be low, and pointing will benefit from the added lift. If the boat is a higher leeway design—shoal draft keels and cruising catamarans come to mind—then the rudder angle must stay relatively low to avoid the total angle (leeway + rudder angle) of the rudder from exceeding 10 degrees. That said, boats with truly inefficient keels but large rudders (catamarans have two—they both count if it is not a hull-flying design) can sometimes benefit from total angles slightly greater than 10 degrees—they need lift anywhere they can get it.

How can you monitor the rudder angle? If the boat is tiller steered, the tiller will be about 0.6 inches off center for every degree or rudder angle, for every 3 feet of tiller length. In other words, the 36-inch tiller should not be more than about 2 inches off the center line. If the boat is wheel steered, next time the boat is out of the water, measure the rudder angle with the wheel hard over. Count the number of turns of the wheel it takes to move the rudder from centered to rudder hard over, and measure the wheel diameter. Mark the top of the rim of the wheel when the boat is traveling straight, preferably coasting without current and no sails or engine to create leeway.

The rim of the wheel will move (diameter x 3.146 x number of turns)/(degrees rudder angle at hard over) for each degree of rudder angle. Keep this in the range of 2-6 degrees when hard on the wind, as appropriate to your boat. It will typically be on the order of 4-10 inches at the steering wheel rim. A ring of tape at 6 degrees can help.

How do we minimize rudder angle while maintaining a straight course? Trimming the jib in little tighter or letting the mainsheet or traveler out a little will reduce pressure on the rudder and reduce the angle. Some boats actually sail to weather faster and higher, and with better rudder angles, by lowering the traveler a few inches below the center line.

On the other hand, tightening the mainsheet and bringing the traveler up, even slightly above the center line on some boats, will increase the pressure and lift.

Much depends on the course, the sails set, the rig, the position of the keel, the wind, and the sea state. Ultimately, some combination of small adjustments should bring the rudder angle into the appropriate range. Too much rudder angle and you are just fighting yourself.

Turn this rudder just 10 degrees and the end plate is lost, reducing the amount of lift generated.

This rudder might as well be transom hung, the way that the end cap just disappears.

Stern-hung rudders, and spade rudders with large gaps between the hull and the top of the rudder will lose their lift at the “tip” of the blade near the surface.

Surface roughness affects the lift from the rudder in two ways. A rougher surface has slightly lower lift through the entire range of angles, the result of a turbulent boundary layer instead of smooth flow over the entire surface. More dramatically, rougher blades stall at lower angles and stall more completely. The difference between a faired rudder with a polished finish and a rudder carrying a 10-year accumulation of rolled-on antifouling paint can be as much is 35 percent (see “Rudder Savvy to Boost Boat Performance,” above).

What can we do? If your rudder is a lift up type, don’t use bottom paint. Fair the blade within an inch of its life and lay on a gloss topside paint as smoothly as possible, sanding between coats. If you use a brush, stroke the brush parallel to the waterline, not along the length of the blade.

Which is faster, a gloss finish or one that has been dulled with 1000 grit sandpaper? Opinions go both ways, and we believe it may depend on the exact nature of the paint, which leads to the question, “Should we wax the blade?” The answer is a resounding, no.

Wax is a hydrophobic (readily beads water), like the silicone rubber spatula you tested, and as a result, water doesn’t always cling as well. Thus, whether the paint should be deglossed or not depends on the chemistry of the paint, but in all cases the final sanding should be 1000 grit or finer.

If the rudder stays in the water, antifouling paint is required. Sand the prior coat perfectly smooth. There should be no evidence of chips, runners, or any irregularity at all. Using a mohair roller, lay the paint on thin, and apply multiple coats to withstand the scrubbing you will give your rudder from time to time.

Even if you use soft paint on the rest of the boat, consider hard paint for the rudder. Sure, it will build up and you will have to sand it off periodically, but the rudder is small and no part of your boat is more critical to good handling. Take the time to maintain it as a perfect airfoil.

Close the Gap

Ever notice the little winglets on the tips of certain airplanes? As we know, those are intended to reduce losses off the tip of the wing. The alternatives are slightly longer wings or slightly lower efficiency. At the fuselage end of the wing, of course, there is no such loss because the fuselage serves as an end plate. The same is true with your rudder.

There’s not much you can do about losses from the tip; making the rudder longer will increase the chance of grounding and increase stress on the rudder, rudder shaft, and bearings. Designers have experimented with winglets, but they the catch weeds and the up-and-down motion of the transom makes them inefficient. However, we can improve the end plate effect of the hull by minimizing the gap between the hull and the rudder.

In principle it should be a close fit, but in practice the gap is most often wide enough to catch a rope. Just how much efficiency is lost by gap of a few inches? The answer is quite a lot. A gap of just an inch can reduce lift by as much as 10-20 percent, depending on the size and shape of the rudder and the speed. A gap of 1-2 mm is quite efficient, but normal flexing of the rudder shaft may lead to rubbing.

If the gap is tight, the slightest bend from impact with a submerged log can cause jamming and loss of steering, though in my experience once the impact is sufficient to bend the shaft, a small difference in clearance is unlikely to make much difference; the shaft will bend until the rudder strikes the hull. Just how tight is practical depends on the type of construction, fitting accuracy, and how conservative the designer was in their engineering.

Carbon shafts, tubular shafts, and rudders with skegs flex less, while solid shafts generally flex more, all things being equal. Normally a clearance of about 1/4-inch per foot of rudder cord is practical, and performance-oriented boats often aim for much less. If you can reach your fingers through, that’s way too much. Hopefully the hull is relatively flat above the rudder so that the gap does not increase too much with rudder angle.

Practical Sailor’s technical editor Drew Frye is the author of the books Keeping a Cruising Book for Peanuts and Rigging Modern Anchors. He blogs at his website, sail delmarva.blogspot.com .

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How to Build a Sailboat Rudder From Scratch

Introduction: How to Build a Sailboat Rudder From Scratch

This particular rudder is built off of the original rudder for a ~20' Bayliner Buccaneer sailboat. The original had cracked and rotted pretty badly. The owner of the sailboat cut the top of the rudder off and made a wooden 'boot' to cap the rudder. However, it wasn't water sealed with fiberglass, and over time more and more moisture got in until it became so flimsy that it wasn't reliable. While this instructable is specifically for this Bayliner sailboat with a tiller-style rudder, the instructions should be general enough for you to modify it to work for many sailboats. With that said, there are many many nuances to fiberglass/composite marine construction, so this type of build will require more research beyond what is covered here.

Step 1: Previous Rudder

In these photos you can see the extent of the damage. The rudder was foam-core/fiberglass sandwich. Think of it as a Big Mac; the three buns of the Big Mac were layers of fiberglass, and the meat was the foam (the yellow stuff). The only difference was that the buns would have all been connected and fully enclose the meat. First, I cut apart the rudder along its perimeter with an oscillating saw, so that I could use the pieces as templates for the build. In the fifth image you are seeing a piece of balsa (I think) at the edge of the rudder where the mounting hardware was located so as to provide compressive stability for the tightened hardware. In the last image, if you look at the top of the image you can see where the previous owner had chopped off the top of the rudder. There was a rudimentary wooden cap on that, so you can see how easy it would have been for water to get in.

Step 2: Rebuild

Because of the difficulty of rebuilding the rudder the same way, I chose to use two sheets of 3/4" solid plywood. While this increased the overall weight of the rudder, it ensured maximum strength and stability. There is a good reason that I chose to do it in two pieces: I wanted to be able to sand the exterior faces of the rudder in order to get a tapered surface, and by doing it in two pieces allowed me to have the piece be level on one side. In the first image below, you can see the old pieces of the rudder all stripped of foam next to the new plywood pieces. In the background you can see the middle fiberglass 'bun' of the whole kit 'n caboodle. I scraped away all of the foam because I had originally wanted to save the exterior pieces and reuse them, but the Big Mac style construction made it more difficult to reuse them. Simply place the old pieces on your sheet of plywood, trace, then cut out with a jigsaw. If for some reason, you only have one template to work with, and you are using two pieces of ply that will later get glued together, be sure to flip the template over before tracing, so you have mirrored pieces. The customer asked for a little more material at the top of the rudder, as you will see in the last images of the Instructable. It ended up making it look a little strange, however.

Step 3: Sanding

Unfortunately, I only took one image of the sanding process, shown below. As I mentioned, it is good to sand the two pieces separately, although this picture is of the two already glued together. A handy trick is to imagine your surface and the lines of ply as the lines on a topography map. The curved edge of the rudder closest to us in the image is the narrowest edge, from the little notch all the way down the side to the very bottom of the rudder. This is because it is the edge of the rudder that points forward when it is on the boat. I started by using a disc sander, but it was too slow, so I switched to a grinder. The grinder worked well, but it was a bit too fast, so if you decide to use one, be very judicious in your use of it, otherwise you will end up with big divots.

Step 4: Fiberglass Layup

As I already alluded, there are many many variations to fiberglass construction. For this project I used chopped strand mat (which you can see in the first image), and a woven fiberglass cloth on top of that, with vinylester resin. Later on in the project I switched to West Systems Epoxy 105 and 205, because it was on hand. This type of layup requires you to use both the mat and the cloth in one process. The general idea is that you cut your mat to about the same size as your rudder, pour your resin on top, spread it and around, then immediately lay on the cloth (that you have also already cut to size), and the resin underneath should be enough to saturate the cloth. Often, however, it wasn't, and I had to mix more up really quick and pour it on top of the cloth to get it fully saturated. This is where you will need to conduct more research on mixing ratios of resin, temperature, amount per surface area, etc. Generally, I was able to get about 30 minutes of working time out of each batch. In the back is a finned roller that you use after you mix and start pouring the resin to remove the air bubbles from under the chopped strand mat and to spread the resin around. After a while the roller gets all gummed up, and I ended up using just my gloved hand to push out the bubbles, and I found that a simple plastic spreader worked best for spreading. Don't worry about the stuff that hangs over the sides. Originally I wanted to have it fold over and seal the edges at the same time, but this was near impossible, as we will see soon, and I just let it hang and harden from any of the spilled over resin. I dealt with it later with a lot of sanding.

Step 5: First Layer and Sanding

The order I used was as follows: Glass one side of the rudder, let cure. Cut off excess edge stuff and rough sand/grind. Glass other side of rudder, let cure. Cut off excess, sand until flush. Glass edges based upon which were generally 'up' when clamped in a mostly horizontal way (images 4 and 5). Glass the remaining edges. Sand the nasty edges until flush. The first image is after the glass on the faces have cured, showing the excess. The third image was after sanding the excess from the faces. The following images were taken doing first layers of the edges, after the faces.

Step 6: Additional Layers and Difficult Spots

I don't remember exactly how many layers went on total, because after sanding where necessary, sometimes more wood gets exposed, and all that's required is a simple patch. The first image is after fully sanded face and edge layers. There are some really difficult spots that you need to pay attention to. Generally, corners are the spots you need to look out for. It's like trying to wrap a piece of paper over a 3D form without letting any edges lift. They will tend to lift up one end of your saturated cloth and allow air to get right in there, which means you'll have to sand that air bubble out and re-do it later. The very bottom tip of the rudder was one of them. Although the second picture is after I had drilled the holes for the hardware, it's useful to see the method for tackling those difficult spots. Visibile at the tip of the rudder is a bit of blue painter's tape. For that spot and others, which I will mention later, I basically taped the heck out of it, making a small well, and poured in enough resin to cover it. You can also see in this picture, how it has started to get thick/bulky. That's normal as layers build, you just need to sand it down flush later. Sometimes the tape gets sealed in there, so I just left it in.

Step 7: Notes of Caution

If, after a good amount of sanding, your rudder has patches of white at the surface and you can feel a clothy texture when you run your fingers over them, it means the cloth did not get fully saturated and means the surface is not fully sealed. When this happens, it is sufficient to mix up a new batch of epoxy/resin, and spread it over the surface(s) without the need for another layer of cloth. The entire surface is sealed when all of it feels smooth/looks glossy and hard, although some spots may still be bumpy. After you think you've sealed the whole rudder and you go to sand it smooth, you may uncover more white patches or air bubbles. It's extremely frustrating to think you're almost done and find another one of those, but it pays off to patch them properly. If there are some air bubbles or pockets that just don't seem to patch up and keeps reappearing after you sand this product is really helpful: http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html. It's a putty-like marine epoxy, so it serves the same purpose as regular epoxy, but it is much more workable and can be packed into a hole to completely seal it. The is the best product for repairs of deep scratches or small punctures in a fiberglass surface. The notch at the top of the first image was one spot that I taped significantly in order seal every spot with epoxy. This is the point where I switched to epoxy from resin, as I had run out. The purple is the natural color of the epoxy after it hardens.

Step 8: Hardware Holes

This step is extremely important and tricky. If, by chance, you have the previous hardware which mounts the rudder to the transom of the boat, great. Use them as guides as you don't want to make your rudder thicker than the original and not fit into the hardware. If you don't have previous hardware and your boat needs a very specific bracket, go buy it early so you can make sure to construct your rudder to fit into those, otherwise, just buy some to suit. Use this tutorial to help you get the holes right: http://www.boat-project.com/tutorials/drill.htm. Basically, you need to drill your holes bigger (1.5x, I think. The tutorial with specify this.) than the hardware needs. You then fill the hole with epoxy and let cure. Then you drill your holes again with a bit sized for your hardware. After painting, get some sealant (specified in the tutorial) and coat the bolts, holes and the inside face of the bracket immediately before placing them on the rudder. It's really important to drill your holes square through the rudder. If you don't, you'll find when putting the bolts through, that they won't meet with the bracket holes. If you're slightly off (like I was), you can just enlarge the hole at the problem end. If you're really off, you'll have to sand the paint away, drill the new hole, fill with epoxy again, re drill, then paint.

Step 9: Painting

Painting a boat or any underwater surface is another realm that has a large amount of nuance, specificity, and also varying opinions. It is still a bit unclear to me, but the most ideal situation is to find a marine paint that actually bonds with your fiberglass/epoxy surface. Interlux makes really good products and they have tutorials on which paints to buy and how to apply them: http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/default.aspx. Before painting, you must 'cut' the surface (a light sanding), so there is surface for the paint to bond to, and you will need to remove any oils or chemicals that are on the surface with acetone or a similar product. The paint will usually specify a total thickness of paint required to be considered sealed, and will allow you to calculate the number of coats from the average thickness per coat. Next use a top-side paint (I think we used an auto-body paint) to cover the surfaces above the waterline to make it look nice. Lastly, apply a bottom paint (also called anti-fouling paint) below the waterline of the rudder. Bottom paints, especially, vary greatly by geographical location, type of water, EPA legal restrictions, etc. Their purpose is to prevent organisms from attaching to the submerged surfaces, so naturally, they will contain certain chemicals and/or metals. Copper is a common ingredient in anti-fouling paint, as it slowly leeches from the paint, preventing any organisms from attaching permanently.

Step 10: The End!

Attach the hardware and tiller, and you're ready to put it on the boat!!! (That's my pops holding the rudder.)

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How to Build Rudders & Centerboards

by Captain James R. Watson

When the centerboard of my Searunner trimaran broke in the middle of a windy race around the Black Hole, the question I kept asking was “Why now, after working fine all of this time, and when we were leading the race?”

“Guess it just wore out” was my excuse to myself. This centerboard was built of laminated layers of plywood, resulting in a thickness of 2″. It was then covered with two layers of 6-oz woven fiberglass fabric. It was a deep and wide board with a lot of area, and like any rudder or centerboard on a boat that is sailed hard, it was exposed to a fair amount of stress.

The answer to “Why now – while leading the race?” could have been fate. But there is a more scientific answer. Extensive laboratory testing at Gougeon Brothers, Inc. defines why the centerboard failed. Understanding why can help us design and construct components that will perform more efficiently and last much longer.

The plywood centerboard did, in fact, wear out – or more accurately – it failed from rolling shear fatigue. Fatigue cracks in a material result from repeated (cyclic) stress. Fatigue is a reality of all structures and materials and eventually culminates in structural failure. Repeated loading and unloading or even worse, loading one way and then the other (reverse axial), rapidly reduces a material’s physical integrity and accelerates degradation. The higher the load is as a percentage of the material’s ultimate strength, the more rapid is the deterioration.

Some materials have a greater fatigue life than others. Ounce per ounce, wood is capable of operating at a much higher percentage of its ultimate stress level than most other materials. That is why such wonderfully efficient structures can be built with wood. However, plywood is not a good choice for cantilevered structures such as rudder blades and centerboards. This is because plywood is susceptible to rolling shear, shearing forces that roll the structural fibers across the grain. Plywood’s unidirectional wood fibers are laid in alternating layers, approximately half of them are oriented 90 degrees to the axis of the loads. Like a bundle of soda straws, which resist bending moments quite well one way, they simply lack cross-grain strength laterally and can roll against one another and fail under relatively low stress, especially in a cyclic environment. Therefore, when anticipated loads are primarily unidirectional, it is ideal to use a material with good unidirectional strength. Since only half of the plywood’s wood fiber is used to advantage, a plywood rudder blade or centerboard going from tack to tack (reverse axial loads) will fatigue much more rapidly than one built as described in this article.

If you were to look at the end of the board, say a fish’s view of a centerboard or rudder blade, you’d view its cross-section. A section that has a faired airfoil shape is preferred over one that is flat with parallel sides. This is because the airfoil shape produces lift when moving through the water, thereby counteracting the sideward forces exerted by the sail rig. A flat section produces less lift and at a great expense of drag, slowing the boat and making it more difficult to steer.

“Turn every other ripping end-for-end to neutralize the effects of any grain that does not run exactly parallel to the blank, and to reduce tendencies to twist. Rotate the rippings 90 degrees to expose the vertical grain and to permit easier shaping with a plane.

The selection of a proper camber and section can be a subject of great theoretical debate. One can become intimidated with technical terms such as thickness distribution, Reynolds number, boundary layer, and so on. These terms do relate to the subject, however, for the builder/sailor whose boat floats forlornly in need of a rudder blade the following will do just fine. In fact, the best designers and builders will be hard-pressed to do better.

An excellent choice for most craft is a realistically accurate and fair NACA (National Advisory Committee for Aeronautics) 0012 airfoil, where maximum board thickness is 12% of the fore/aft length (chord length). Maximum thickness is located about 30% of the chord length measured from the leading edge (see sketch). The dimensions used to establish a specific shape (called offsets) are given in the appendix of Abbott & Doenhoff’s The Theory of Wing Sections. You’ll also find further information in my article How to loft Airfoil Sections.

From offsets make a good drawing of half the section on transfer paper.

Western red cedar and redwood are good choices of wood to use for rudder blades and centerboards for boats up to 25 feet. Both of these woods bond very well are generally clear and straight-grained, have good dimensional stability, are easily worked and affordable. Cedar is just a little heavier than the foams used for rudders, is much stiffer, and has far greater shear strength values. On larger craft, a higher-density material like African mahogany is a better choice. Oak is not a good choice.

Buy flat-grained 2’x6″s or 2’x8″s, and then rip them to the designed board thickness. Turn every other ripping end-for-end to neutralize the effects of any grain that does not run exactly parallel to the blank, and to reduce tendencies to warp or twist (see sketch). Rotating the rippings 90 degrees to expose vertical grain will permit easier shaping with a plane. The last trick is to rip the end pieces of the nose and tail in half. Bonding with a couple of layers of glass tape between keeps the fine edge of the tail from splitting too easily and offers a precise centerline.

Bond the ripping with a slurry of epoxy and 404 High-Density filler. Plastic strips prevent inadvertent bonding to leveled sawhorses (see sketch). With both sawhorses leveled, you’re positive no twist exists in the laminated blank. Bar clamps should be snugged until excess glue squeezes from the joints. Over tightening only stresses joints and tends to squeeze all the adhesive from them. When the laminate is cured, a light planing to clean the surfaces is all that is needed before shaping begins.

Centerboards and rudder blades are often overlooked components that are vital to a boat’s performance.

First, tack the 1/8″-thick plywood template that describes the cross-section shape to the blank’s ends. This is sawn from the impression made when traced with the transfer paper you originally drew it on. The key to producing an accurate and symmetrical board is maintaining a systematic removal of material from one side, then from the other. To do this, mark the shape to be removed, stick to straight-line shapes (see sketch). Use a smoothing plane to remove the wood.

After planing to the guidelines on one side, flip the blank over and plane the same shape on the other side. The procedure is similar to producing a round shape from a square by first forming an octagon, and then flattening the resulting eight corners to produce a 16-sided shape and refining that until very minute flat surfaces exist. Fifty-grit sandpaper bonded with 3M brand feathering disc adhesive to a 1/2″-thick by 11’x4.5″-wide plywood sanding block is a good tool to use for fairing this out.

Now you should decide if the board needs reinforcement. Your board requires reinforcement if the chord thickness is at or below 4% of the unsupported span. The unsupported span of a daggerboard or centerboard is that measurement from where it exits the hull, to its tip when fully lowered. The unsupported span of the rudder blade is the distance from the rudder case to the tip. If it is a non-retracting blade, measure from the waterline to the tip. So, if the board extends 48″ below the bottom of the hull and is 2″ thick, .04″, it should be reinforced for strength and stiffness.

If the board needs reinforcement, graphite fibers are a good choice as the strain-to-failure values of wood and graphite fiber are quite similar, hence they enhance each other’s performance. The high-modulus qualities of the graphite fibers provide stiffness. The addition of graphite will efficiently increase stiffness and ultimate strength. Don’t be intimidated by the high-tech qualities of graphite fibers, they are easy to work with.

The amount of reinforcement needed is usually figured at 10% chord thickness. Using the same board for our example, the board is 2″ thick, then 10% equals .20″ total reinforcement, .10″ per side. Graphite fiber tows are .01″ thick, so 10 tows per side should give the necessary reinforcement to do the job.

The graphite fibers will be laid into a channel routed into the shaped centerboard.

The graphite fibers will be laid into a channel that is routed into the shaped board (see sketch). The specific depth of the channel is determined by the above rule. Make the channel a little deeper than what’s required (1/16″) so you won’t be sanding the graphite fibers.

The profile of the channel is similar on all boards. The centerline of the channel is usually located at the point of maximum chord thickness (about 30% from the leading edge). The widest point of the channel is where the board exits the hull when completely lowered. The channel width at this point should be about 16% of chord length. Toward the ends of the board, the width of the channel narrows by about one-third that of the widest dimension. Keeping this in mind, more graphite can be laid in that area, a little above and more below that point that exits the hull. Maintain a consistent channel depth throughout.

Take a one-inch-square stick to serve as a router guide. It’s best to bevel the edge of the channel to reduce stress concentration. A rabbet plane serves best for this task. A layer of 6-oz fiberglass cloth is laid in the channel first (this serves as an interface between the wood and graphite fiber), followed by the schedule of graphite. You can complete the entire bonding operation for a side in one session. Try to do the other side the next day. Finally, fair the reinforcement area with WEST SYSTEM brand epoxy and a low-density filler.

A layer of 6-oz woven-glass fabric should then be bonded to the faired board to improve the cross-grain strength and abrasion resistance. The radius of the leading edge should be about a 1% radius of the chord length, and may not permit the fiberglass fabric to lie flat around the radius. In that event, cut a strip of woven glass fabric on the bias (which will lie around a tighter radius) and bond it around the leading edge.

It is better to leave the trailing edge slightly squared rather than razor-sharp. This will cause less drag and the centerboard will be less vulnerable to damage. Flatten the trailing edge to 1/16 or 1/8 of an inch on small boards, and closer to 1/4 of an inch on larger boards.

Any board, no matter how stiff, will deflect. To prevent the axle hole that the centerboard pivots on from binding when deflection occurs, make the hole somewhat larger than the pin diameter. The perimeter of the axle hole should be thoroughly protected with fiberglass, as exposed end grain can absorb moisture.

To prevent the axle hole from binding when deflection occurs, make the hole a little larger than the pin diameter.

Abrasion of the axle against the axle hole dictates that you should bond fiberglass into the hole’s perimeter. To do that, wrap fiberglass tape around a waxed (use auto paste wax) metal rod that is about 10 to 15% larger in diameter than the actual axle pin. The hole should be heavily chamfered on each side, so when the wet layup is placed in the hole and the nuts tightened, the fiberglass is pressed by the large washers into the chamfers on both sides of the board (see sketch). The same procedure may be used on retractable rudder blades, but the tolerance between axle hole diameter and the diameter of the axle pin should be closer.

You can bond control lines for centerboards and rudders-in-place by wetting a slightly oversized hole (about 1.5″ to 2″ deep) with epoxy/404 High-Density filler mixture. It helps to mark the hole’s depth on the rope with vinyl electricians tape to serve as a guide. Then, after soaking that end of the rope to be bonded in epoxy for a minute or so, shove it in the full depth of the hole.

Centerboards and rudder blades are often overlooked components that are of vital importance to a boat’s performance. Built correctly, they will reliably operate with the efficiency of a fish’s fin, and you should note a measurable improvement in the quality of pointing and steering of your windship.

References:

1. Jozset Bodig, Ph.D., Benjamin A Jayne Ph.D., Mechanics of Wood and Wood Composites 2. Johnston, Ken, Some Thoughts on Rudder Sections , Multihulls Magazine (Jan/Feb 1980) 3. Eck Bransford, Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About 505 Fins 4. Lindsay, Mark, Centerboards and Rudders , Yacht Racing/Cruising Magazine (April 1981) 5. Abbott and Doenhoff, Theory of Wing Sections, Dover Publications, Inc. New York (1959) 6. Captain James R. Watson, How to Loft Airfoil Sections , Epoxyworks 1 (Fall 1992)

Paddle Board

What Is a Sailboat Rudder? An Overview of Its Function and Design

Sailboats have been used for thousands of years to traverse water. They have undergone many changes and improvements over the years, and one of the essential components of a sailboat is the rudder.

Quick Facts

Understanding the sailboat rudder.

The rudder is a vital component of a sailboat that plays a crucial role in steering and maneuvering the vessel. The rudder works by changing the direction of the water flow around it, which moves the boat in the opposite direction. Without a rudder, it would be impossible to navigate a sailboat effectively, especially in different water and wind conditions.

Components of a Sailboat Rudder

A sailboat rudder comprises several components, each with a unique function that contributes to the rudder’s overall effectiveness. The stock is the main vertical shaft that connects the rudder blade to the boat’s helm. It is usually made of stainless steel or aluminum alloy and is designed to withstand the forces exerted on the rudder during navigation.

The blade is the flat portion of the rudder that faces the water current and directs the water flow in the opposite direction to steer the boat. The blade is typically made of fiberglass-reinforced plastic or aluminum alloy and is designed to be lightweight and durable. Pintles and gudgeons are the two connections between the rudder and stern that allow for easy installation and removal of the rudder. Pintles are the vertical metal pins that fit into the gudgeons, which are the horizontal metal brackets attached to the boat’s stern.

Different Types of Rudders

There are several types of rudders used in sailboats, each with its advantages and disadvantages. Transom-mounted rudders are the most common type of rudder, and they are mounted on the stern of the boat. Skeg-mounted rudders are attached to a fixed fin called a skeg, which provides additional stability to the rudder.

Keel-mounted rudders are attached to the boat’s keel, which is the central structural element that runs along the bottom of the hull. Spade rudders are free-standing rudders that are not attached to any part of the boat and are commonly used in racing sailboats. The type of rudder used depends on the boat’s size, design, and intended use.

Materials Used in Rudder Construction

Rudders can be made from various materials, each with its advantages and disadvantages. Wooden rudders are the traditional choice and are still used in some sailboats today. However, they are relatively heavy and require regular maintenance to prevent rot and decay.

Aluminum alloy rudders are lightweight and durable, making them an excellent choice for racing sailboats. Stainless steel rudders are also durable but are heavier than aluminum alloy rudders. Fiberglass-reinforced plastic rudders are the most common type of rudder used today, as they are lightweight, durable, and require minimal maintenance.

The sailboat rudder is an essential component that plays a crucial role in steering and maneuvering a sailboat. Understanding the different types of rudders, their components, and the materials used in their construction can help sailors choose the right rudder for their boat and navigate more effectively in different water and wind conditions.

The Function of a Sailboat Rudder

Steering and maneuvering.

The primary function of a sailboat rudder is to steer and maneuver the boat. The rudder’s blade directing the flow of water in a specific direction allows for the steering of the boat as the blade changes direction. Sailors can use the rudder to turn the boat in any direction they choose, allowing them to navigate through narrow channels or around obstacles in the water. It is essential to note that the rudder works in conjunction with the sails to control the boat’s direction and speed.

Balancing the Sailboat

The balance of the sailboat is critical to ensure safe maneuvering, and the rudder plays a crucial role in achieving this. A balanced rudder helps in keeping the boat steady, reducing drag, and preventing unwanted turning. Sailors can adjust the rudder’s angle to keep the boat balanced and on course, especially in rough water conditions. A well-balanced rudder also helps to reduce the risk of capsizing or losing control of the boat .

Rudder Effectiveness in Different Conditions

Rudder effectiveness varies depending on the boat’s size, weight, and water and wind conditions. A larger boat may require a bigger rudder for proper maneuvering, while a smaller boat can work with a smaller rudder. Sailors must also consider the water and wind conditions when choosing the right rudder for their boat. In calm waters, a smaller rudder may be sufficient, but in rough water, a larger rudder may be necessary to maintain control of the boat. Additionally, the rudder’s effectiveness can be affected by the boat’s speed, with higher speeds requiring more significant rudders to maintain control.

It is also important to note that the rudder’s effectiveness can be impacted by external factors such as weeds or debris in the water. These factors can reduce the rudder’s ability to steer the boat and require sailors to make adjustments to maintain control. Additionally, the rudder’s effectiveness can be impacted by the sailor’s skill level, with more experienced sailors able to make more precise adjustments to the rudder to control the boat’s direction and speed.

Design Considerations for Sailboat Rudders

Sailboat rudders are an essential component of a boat’s steering and maneuvering system. A well-designed rudder can make all the difference in a boat’s performance , especially in challenging weather conditions. In this article, we will explore some of the key design considerations for sailboat rudders.

Rudder Size and Shape

The size and shape of a rudder play a crucial role in determining its effectiveness in steering and maneuvering a boat. A larger rudder provides more leverage and maneuverability, allowing the boat to turn more sharply. However, a larger rudder may also produce more drag, which can slow down the boat’s speed.

The shape of the rudder is also important. A well-designed rudder should be streamlined to reduce drag and turbulence. The thickness of the rudder should be carefully considered to ensure that it is strong enough to withstand the forces exerted on it while remaining lightweight.

Rudder Placement and Configuration

The placement of the rudder on the boat can significantly affect its performance. A rudder that is too far forward can cause the boat to become unstable, while a rudder that is too far aft can make it difficult to steer. The location of the rudder must also take into account factors such as the propeller’s placement and the boat’s shape.

The configuration of the rudder can also determine its effectiveness and balance. A single rudder is the most common configuration, but some boats have twin rudders to provide more steering control. The angle of the rudder blade can also be adjusted to optimize its performance.

Hydrodynamic and Aerodynamic Factors

The design of a rudder must take into consideration the hydrodynamic and aerodynamic factors affecting the boat’s performance. Hydrodynamic factors include water flow, pressure, and turbulence, which can significantly affect the rudder’s performance. The shape and placement of the rudder must be carefully designed to minimize these effects.

Aerodynamic factors consider the wind and air resistance’s impact on the boat’s performance. The rudder’s size and shape must be designed to minimize the wind’s effect on the boat while providing sufficient steering control.

The design of a sailboat rudder is a complex process that requires careful consideration of many factors. The size and shape of the rudder, its placement on the boat, and its configuration must be optimized to provide effective steering and maneuverability. By taking into account the hydrodynamic and aerodynamic factors affecting the boat’s performance, a well-designed rudder can significantly improve a sailboat’s overall performance.

Rudder Maintenance and Repair

The rudder is a crucial component of any sailboat, providing steering and control. As such, it’s essential to keep it in good working order through regular maintenance and inspections.

Inspecting Your Rudder

Regular inspection of the rudder is essential to ensure its continued performance and longevity. A thorough inspection includes checking for cracks, wear and tear, and loose components such as hinges, pins, and screws. It’s also important to check the rudder’s alignment and ensure it moves smoothly and without any obstructions.

During your inspection, be sure to check for signs of corrosion, particularly on metal components. Corrosion can weaken the rudder and cause it to fail, so regular cleaning and maintenance are essential to prevent this.

If you notice any issues during your inspection, it’s important to address them promptly. Small cracks or damage can often be repaired, but if the damage is extensive, it may be necessary to replace the rudder entirely.

Common Rudder Issues and Solutions

One common issue with rudders is corrosion, particularly on metal components. Regular cleaning and maintenance help prevent corrosion and ensure the rudder’s longevity. If you do notice signs of corrosion, it’s important to address it promptly to prevent further damage.

Another common issue is damage to the blade or stock. This can be caused by impact with debris or other boats, or simply wear and tear over time. If the damage is minor, it may be possible to repair the rudder. However, if the damage is extensive or compromises the rudder’s structural integrity, it may be necessary to replace it entirely.

Loose components such as hinges, pins, and screws can also cause issues with the rudder. These should be checked regularly and tightened or replaced as needed.

When to Replace or Upgrade Your Rudder

Sailboat rudders can last for many years, but at some point, replacement or upgrade may be necessary. This includes upgrading to a newer design or larger rudder to improve the boat’s performance or replacing a damaged or worn-out rudder that is beyond repair.

If you’re considering upgrading your rudder, it’s important to consult with a professional to ensure that the new rudder is compatible with your boat and will provide the desired performance improvements.

Regular maintenance and inspections are essential to ensure the continued performance and longevity of your sailboat’s rudder. By staying on top of any issues and addressing them promptly, you can ensure that your rudder will continue to provide reliable steering and control for many years to come.

A sailboat’s rudder is a crucial component that helps steer and maneuver the boat safely. The size, shape, placement, and construction materials must all be taken into consideration when designing or replacing a rudder. Regular maintenance and inspection help ensure its continued performance and longevity.

Rudder FAQS

How does a sailboat rudder work.

A sailboat rudder works by changing the direction of the water flow past the boat’s hull, which in turn changes the direction of the boat. The rudder is attached to the stern of the boat and can be turned left or right. When the rudder is turned, it creates a force that pushes the stern in the opposite direction and turns the bow towards the direction the rudder is turned. This is how a rudder steers a boat.

What is a rudder and its purpose?

A rudder is a flat piece, usually made of metal or wood, attached to the stern of a vessel such as a boat or ship. The main purpose of the rudder is to control the direction of the vessel. It does this by deflecting water flow, creating a force that turns the vessel. Without a rudder, steering a vessel would be significantly more challenging.

Can you steer a sailboat without a rudder?

Steering a sailboat without a rudder is challenging but not impossible. Sailors can use the sails and the keel to influence the direction of the boat. By trimming the sails and shifting weight, it’s possible to cause the boat to turn. However, this is a difficult technique that requires a deep understanding of sailing dynamics and is usually considered a last resort if the rudder fails.

What controls the rudder on a sailboat?

The rudder on a sailboat is typically controlled by a steering mechanism, like a tiller or a wheel. The tiller is a lever that is directly connected to the top of the rudder post. Pushing the tiller to one side causes the rudder to turn to the opposite side. On larger boats, a wheel is often used. The wheel is connected to the rudder through a series of cables, pulleys, or hydraulic systems, which turn the rudder as the wheel is turned.

How do you steer a sailboat with a rudder?

To steer a sailboat with a rudder, you use the tiller or wheel. If your sailboat has a tiller, you’ll push it in the opposite direction of where you want to go – pushing the tiller to the right will turn the boat to the left and vice versa. If your sailboat has a wheel, it operates like a car steering wheel – turning it to the right steers the boat to the right and turning it to the left steers the boat to the left.

How do you steer a sailboat against the wind?

Steering a sailboat against the wind, also known as tacking, involves a maneuver where the bow of the boat is turned through the wind. Initially, the sails are let out, and then the boat is steered so that the wind comes from the opposite side. As the boat turns, the sails are rapidly pulled in and filled with wind from the new direction. This maneuver allows the boat to zigzag its way upwind, a technique known as “beating.” It requires skill and understanding of sailing dynamics to execute effectively.

John is an experienced journalist and veteran boater. He heads up the content team at BoatingBeast and aims to share his many years experience of the marine world with our readers.

What to Do If Your Boat Engine Won’t Start? Common Problems & How to Fix Them

How to launch a boat by yourself: complete beginner’s guide, how to surf: complete beginner’s guide to get you started.

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New Rudders

Replacement Sailboat Rudders and Centerboards

Rudder Construction

IMAGE ONE: Tape flanges and wax mold. IMAGE TWO: Spray the mold surface with gelcoat.

Foss Foam Products of Florida, Inc. still blends its own 20 pound per cubic foot high density closed cell polyurethane foam. Foss Foam is the ideal product for manufacturing sailboat rudders.

Start by choosing a suitable rudder board section. In the example the NACA 4412 section was chosen. The rudder cord is 260mm. Because of this small chord only one stringer is used. If the chord is more as 300 mm a second stringer must be used at 2/3 of the chord. To begin, draw the section to scale and determine the angle for the jig flanks. The plywood planking must just touch the leading edge as shown.

Determine the length of the rudder. This will be the length of the jig. In this case the jig is 1470 mm long. The flanks are spaced 300mm from each other, so you will need 6 flanks. Make them from plywood or particle board. For dimensions see jig drawing upper left. Build the jig base according to the drawing 3. Build it up on a strong base. Again we used particle board.

The dimensions of the jig corner pieces and inner wood pieces are only examples. But use strong and straight lumber. Cut out the sides of the rudder. Use good quality 4 mm plywood. For dimensions see drawing 2. Scarf the trailing edge as shown in the drawing. Each side must be 1,5 mm thick at the end. This can best be done with an electric planer.

Mark the position of the stringer(s). Chamfer the corners of the stringer. Use good quality Spruce for this part. Mark the position of the stringers on the outside of the panels (center). Drill 2 mm pilot holes. About 200 mm apart. Glue the stringers to one side. Check for correct distance in relation to the leading edge. Fasten with small nails. Remove the nails after curing. Apply epoxy to what will be the inside of the rudder panels. Stick the two panels, at which will be the leading edge, with heavy plastic tape together. Place the panels in the jig and push them to the sides of the flanges

Use the inner pieces of the flanges as wedges. Before applying plastic tape around the corners of the wedges. Close the front and back end of the panels at the leading edge with plastic tape. Mark the height for the epoxy mix. Make a mix of epoxy, micro spheres and fused silica. Place the jig level in both axes. Fill in the epoxy mix (see picture 3). Any spilled epoxy has to be removed. Watch for correct height (15 mm).

Let the epoxy mix properly cure. Prepare 25 x 25 mm lumber as long as the rudder to close the trailing edge. Close the rudder with clamps and the lumber in between (see picture 4 and 5) and check for a good fit. Do this as a dry run. Open the rudder again and correct if necessary. Prepare two UD carbon strips ( 400 gr/m2 ). Wide 50 mm, as long as the rudder. (See picture 4) Apply epoxy glue to the gluing surfaces leading edge stringer(s) and to the sides that the UD carbon strips have to be glued to. Apply epoxy to the carbon strip. Now partly close the dagger board. Place the carbon strips as shown in the drawing 2. Watch that these are bonded also to the sides. Eventually you have to close the sides a bit more.

When you are sure the carbon strips are in the right position, apply epoxy glue to the trailing edge area and close the dagger board with the lumber and clamps (see pictures 4 and 5).

Screw the stringer(s) down. Use the pilot holes to do so. Let cure properly. Remove the clamps and lumber. Remove the rudder from the jig. Remove the plastic tape on the leading edge. Trim the leading edge. Round off the trailing edge to the correct radius. Remove all screws and nails. Close the lower and upper part of the rudder with a 8 mm plywood piece. Close it on the inside! Fill all nicks, dents and screw holes with epoxy putty. Apply 2 layers of 220 grams/m2 glass cloth. Fill the glass structure with thin epoxy putty and sand down to a smooth surface without sanding in the glass fiber. Apply primer and paint.

Finish the rudder otherwise according to the original drawing. We use this system for building rudders and boards for catamarans form 5,5 m onwards for more as 22 years. All builders found this way the simplest to build. No customer reported any failure over all the years. The load on lee boards is very high. Use the next thicker section as the designer specified. The boards will be anyway lighter as on the plans.

Bernd Kohler ikarus342000.com

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OffShore Sailboats

High quality yachts for bluewater sailing, rudder design and construction.

The rudder of a boat is one of the most important components in determining how a boat feels, as it is the primary means of control for the helmsman. A rudder that is poorly designed can contribute to many uncomfortable and sometimes even dangerous sailing characteristics. An unbalanced rudder can contribute to excessive weather or lee helm when sailing heeled over, as well as require significant force to alter or stay on course. Without the correct aspect ratio and foil shape, the rudder can stall in tight maneuvers and loose steerage at lower speeds. We have taken great care in designing a rudder that is balanced, has the right aspect ratio and is easy to maintain.

The issue with composite rudders with metal stocks, the most common rudder design, is that over time they will leak and get water ingress in the foam core. This will slowly pulverize the core material and result in a rudder shell that will easily break due to the lack of support. The second issue is that if a rudder stock breaks, the boat will flood and potentially sink. This is why we have gone a different route than what most “traditional” sailboats are equipped with.

The rudder of the Offshore 42 is not a new concept, but the design is unusual on a standard production boat. It is a kick-up rudder which consists of a composite blade, pivoting over an aluminum pin that is housed in an aluminum rudder cassette that is fully above the water and transom hung in a V-shaped recess. The rudder placement allows a wind vane to be used and the recess limits the rudder angle to prevent damage caused by too large of a tiller angle. The kick-up function reduces chances of damage when maneuvering in shallow waters or if the rudder hits something at sea.

By structurally separating the rudder blade from the metal steering mechanism, the water ingress issue is fully resolved. Also, the bending moment on the rudder stock is eliminated as there is no rudder stock. Instead, the loads are spread out over a larger area of the rudder structure and therefore less prone to breaking or fatigue.

In addition to the safety advantages, there are also practical benefits to this design. If need be, the propeller shaft can be pulled while the boat is in the water. The rudder blade can be changed out mid-ocean, pretty much regardless of the weather conditions. The structure is very plain and simple, even in the most remote parts of the world, it would be possible to build a new rudder out of scrap material that fits the transom. This is exactly the spirit of the Offshore 42!

The rudder blade is designed so that it is partially under the hull, forward of the axis of rotation. This creates a balanced rudder and reduces the required force to steer, to virtually none. The feel of the rudder can be easily changed by adjusting the vertical angle of the rudder blade, if desired.

FIBERGLASS BOATBUILDING: Rudder Construction

SOONER OR LATER owners of fiberglass sailboats become interested in how the rudders on their boats are constructed. Usually this happens after an owner notices there is water dribbling out of a boat’s rudder long after it has been hauled out of the water. In the early days of fiberglass boatbuilding, when most sailboats had full keels and attached rudders, many rudders were still made of wood. These were constructed in the traditional fashion and consisted of a row of planks, often mahogany, joined end to end, usually with internal drift pins that were fastened to the rudderstock. You never had to worry about these rudders getting all full of water, but you did sometimes have to worry about the planks coming loose.

Since the late 1960s, almost all fiberglass boats have been built with fiberglass rudders. Not all glass rudders are created equal, but most are built on the same basic principle. Most commonly, the spine of the structure is a metal rudderstock (also sometimes called a rudderpost) off of which sprouts a lateral armature that supports the rudder blade. Traditionally, this armature is welded to the rudderstock and consists of a series of lateral rods or bars, or perhaps a simple flat plate. More recently, foil-shaped fins similar to those seen in the frames of airplane wings have become more common. This skeletal structure is embedded in a high-density closed-cell plastic foam core, which is sheathed in a thin fiberglass skin. This composite foam-core construction is relatively light with neutral buoyancy, which significantly improves the feel of a sailboat’s helm while sailing.

Interior rudder structures

The key variable is the material from which the rudderstock and its armature are manufactured. If metal is used, the best choice is probably silicon bronze, but this is rarely seen anymore. Sometimes aluminum or even titanium are used to save weight, but the most common choice is stainless steel. We like to think of stainless steel as an “ideal” corrosion-proof metal, but this is really only true in limited circumstances. It does resist corrosion well when routinely exposed to oxygen, but is subject to pitting corrosion when trapped in a deoxygenated environment, which is just what you’ll find inside a fiberglass-skinned rudder once its foam core is saturated with water.

Such saturation, unfortunately, is common in any rudder with a metal stock. The joint where the stock enters the rudder blade is apt to leak sooner or later, because the three different materials involved–fiberglass, metal, and plastic foam–all contract and expand at different rates as the ambient temperature changes. No matter how well the joint is sealed when the rudder is first constructed, small gaps through which water can intrude are inevitably created. Knowledgeable boatowners take this for granted. They assume their rudder cores are constantly absorbing water and so drill holes in the bottom of their rudder blades every time they haul their boats in order to let the moisture drain out. (A better alternative, obviously, would be for builders to install drain plugs in the first place.)

Another problem with stainless steel in rudders has to do with its welding characteristics. When stainless steel is welded, the carbon and chromium in it mix to form chromium carbide. This creates two sub-alloys–chromium carbide and chromium-depleted steel–that are different enough in their composition to form a corrosive galvanic couple within the weld. Insert this galvanically compromised weld inside a moist oxygen-depleted foam-cored rudder, and it is much more likely the rudder’s stainless-steel armature will corrode and fail. A stainless-steel rudderstock is also apt to suffer from crevice corrosion inside the shaft seal in the bearing where it exits the hull, as this is another area where water is trapped and becomes stagnant and deoxygenated.

All these problems can be ameliorated if the stainless steel inside a rudder is high-quality 316-L alloy. This variant resists pitting corrosion much more readily than its lesser 302- and 304-alloy cousins. It also has a lower carbon content (thus the L designation) and is less compromised when welded. Unfortunately, there is no easy way to distinguish between alloys. Silicon bronze, by comparison, is virtually corrosion proof under the same circumstances, unless it is coupled directly to steel or aluminum.

Rudderstocks can also be fabricated from a composite laminate such as fiberglass or carbon fiber. The great advantage of a laminate stock is that the stock and the skin of the rudder blade can be the same material, which means the joint where the stock enters the blade can be permanently sealed. Also, the rudderstock can be bonded directly to the interior surface of the skin, thus eliminating the need for interior armature to resist twisting loads as the rudder turns back and forth.

Laminated rudderstocks generally must be wider than metal stocks in order to resist the transverse loads imposed on them. This means the rudder blade must also be wider, which tends to degrade the rudder’s hydrodynamic form. One way around this is to flatten the sides of the stock into a trapezoid shape. This not only creates a narrower cross-section, but also presents a much larger surface area for bonding the stock to the skin of the rudder blade. Note, however, that a trapezoid stock needs bearing rounds installed where the stock passes through its rudder bearings in order for the rudder to turn properly.

Metal vs. laminate rudderstocks

In practice, unfortunately, fiberglass rudderstocks have not performed well. Some mass-production builders have embraced them, because they are cheaper and lighter than stainless-steel stocks, but there have been several incidents where fiberglass stocks have failed in moderate sailing conditions. Builders, as a result, are now more wary of them.

Carbon fiber is another story. Carbon rudderstocks have proven much more reliable, as carbon is much stiffer and stronger. It is also much lighter. An all-carbon rudder (i.e., a carbon stock bonded to carbon skins wrapped around high-density foam) weighs less than half as much as a conventional foam-filled glass rudder with a stainless-steel stock and armature, but also costs two to three times more. Carbon rudders therefore are normally seen only on race boats and high-quality cruising boats.

A carbon-fiber rudderstock

Another important thing to consider, of course, is the manner in which a rudder is attached to its hull. The more a rudder is supported by a hull or skeg, the greater its inherent strength. Unfortunately, the weakest structure, the high-performance spade rudder (see photo up top), is also the most popular. Here all the transverse load, which can be quite large, is carried by the rudderstock where it enters the hull. The hull itself should be reinforced at this point. The top of the stock should also be well supported. On some boats the deck does this job; on others some below-deck structure, such as a transverse beam or shelf, holds the top of the rudderstock in place. Any such structure should be bonded to the hull as strongly as possible.

CHEEKI RAFIKI: Hull Found Again, Post Mortem

FIBERGLASS BOATBUILDING: Deck Hardware

Charlie – Do people really drill holes in the bottom of the rudder to drain water? Is this a good idea? I just hauled my boat today and noticed a 1.5″ crack in the fiberglass laminate skin at the top of the ruuder near the post. Should I drain the rudder, or just grind and fill with epoxy? Or? In any case, thanks for the timely blog post.

Hi Kevin: Yes, people do really drill holes to drain their rudders each year and patch them before they launch again. Your rudder must have water in it, given that crack. Drain it before you do your repairs… or before it freezes! charlie

Professional BoatBuilder Magazine

The rudimentaries of rudders.

By Steve D'Antonio , Jul 12, 2018

Even stoutly constructed rudders are vulnerable to deterioration over time, especially when mild steel or high-carbon-stainless steel is buried in composite foil sections, which inevitably become saturated with seawater.

Like other systems and gear aboard cruising and commercial vessels, rudders have terms to identify their parts and functions. When measuring a rudder, the span and chord are the vertical height and fore-and-aft width, respectively, while the top of portion closest to the hull is referred to as the root , and the bottom is called the tip . Another term frequently used when discussing rudder design, particularly for sailing vessels, is aspect ratio —simply the square of the rudder’s span divided by the rudder’s area. As a rule of thumb, longer, narrower rudders are more efficient than short, wide rudders, and the aspect ratio describes precisely this relationship. Thus, rudders on high-performance sailing vessels are said to have a high-aspect ratio. Walking around a boatyard one day and measuring a few cruising sailboat rudders, I came up with aspect ratios of between 1.7 and 2.1, while one high-performance sailing vessel’s rudder came in at 3.5. The 20-knot semi-displacement lobster yacht’s rudder I measured yielded an even 2.0 aspect ratio, which is considered respectable for this application.

More identifiable rudder components include the stock ; web or armature ; rudderport or log ; stuffing box or compression tube ; bearing ; gudgeon ; and pintle . Not every rudder has all these components.

Rudderstocks

The rudderstock is essentially a shaft or tube that protrudes from the top and sometimes the bottom, depending upon type, of many rudder designs. Because this component provides the primary connection between the rudder’s blade (the flat section that imparts the steering force) and the vessel’s steering system, its design, construction, and material are consequential.

Most stocks are made of stainless steel, bronze, or aluminum, while some are carbon fiber, and they may be solid or hollow. Stainless steel is by far the most common, but it has a penchant for crevice corrosion when exposed to oxygen-depleted water. Insidiously, corrosion nearly always occurs in places where it cannot easily be seen—such as inside many composite (fiberglass and core material) rudder blades and beneath flax-type stuffing-box packing (the problem is exacerbated when the vessel is used infrequently).

This all-stainless rudderstock and webbing is well crafted and ready to be covered with its composite shell.

Of the stainless steel alloys, some resist this corrosion better than others. Stainless-steel rudderstocks should be manufactured with strong, highly corrosion-resistant proprietary shafting alloys such as A22. The next best choice is 316L stainless steel, which also resists crevice corrosion well. Critically important is the L suffix, meaning “low carbon,” a requirement if it is to be welded, as nearly every rudderstock must be, to the support within composite rudders, or to all-metallic plate-steel rudders. Failure to source low-carbon stainless steel for the stock or the web leads to weld decay, sometimes referred to as carbide precipitation, where the region around the weld loses its resistance to corrosion and rusts when exposed to water.

Aluminum rudderstocks are nearly always tubular. Common on aluminum vessels to reduce the likelihood of galvanic corrosion, aluminum stocks are also relatively common on fiber reinforced plastic (FRP) vessels, particularly large ones. Rudder blades, particularly on aluminum vessels, are often fabricated from aluminum. Of the various aluminum alloys, only a few possess the necessary corrosion-resistance and strength necessary for use as rudderstocks. Of these, the 6000 series, and 6082 in particular—an alloy of aluminum, manganese, and silicon—are popular for this application.

Because aluminum, like stainless steel, suffers from corrosion, it should not be used as stock or web material in composite rudders. Referred to as poultice corrosion, it occurs when aluminum is exposed to oxygen-depleted water. Because oxygen is what allows aluminum to form its tough, corrosion-resistant oxide coating, the metal should never be allowed to remain wet and starved of air as it would be inside a composite rudder blade after water makes its way in around the stock and pintle.

Rudderstock material can corrode in way of the oxygen-starved environment around the packing in a stuffing box.

Bronze, a once popular rudderstock material, is no longer common in today’s production vessels. Although strong and exceptionally corrosion resistant (immune to crevice corrosion), bronze is not easily welded to attach to a rudder’s internal structural webbing, and has thus been supplanted by stainless alloys. Bronze rudderstocks, particularly those that have seen many sea miles, are also known for wearing, or hourglassing, within stuffing boxes, where the flax rides against the stock. If a bronze stock rudder is chronically leaky, disassemble the stuffing box and check for excessive wear. The same is true for stainless and aluminum stocks: chronic leakage is often an indication of corrosion at the packing. Finally, because of their galvanic incompatibility, neither bronze nor copper alloys should be used aboard aluminum vessels for rudderstocks or any other rudder or stuffing box components.

Mild-steel webbing welded to a stainless-steel rudderstock is a recipe for eventual corrosion and failure.

The webbing, or internal metallic support system, in most composite rudders must be strong enough to carry the loads of service and be made of the appropriate material. At one time, many rudders were built using stainless-steel stocks and ordinary, rust-prone mild or carbon-steel webbing. Inadvisably, some still are. The union between a stainless stock and FRP rudder blade is tenuous at best (the two materials expand and contract at different rates) and stainless steel’s slippery surface makes adhesion to the laminate resin a short-lived affair. Once water enters the gap between these two materials, it will reach the webbing and associated welds. Thus, all the materials within this structure must be as corrosion- and water-resistant as possible, and the core material must be closed-cell—often foam—and nonhygroscopic.

This destroyed foam-core and stainless-steel rudder reveals the conventional construction of such appendages.

Additionally, where possible, the stock should consist of a single section of solid or tubular material; i.e., it should not be sleeved, reduced, or otherwise modified or welded unless done so in an exceptionally robust manner. The webbing must be welded to the stock, but the structure of the stock should not rely on a weld that would experience cyclical, torsional loading.

The webbing in the form of a plate or grid should be welded to the stock with ample horizontal gussets (small wedges welded where the stock and webbing interface), which will reinforce welds 90° to the primary web attachment.

Whether the rudder is spade (supported only at the top) or skeg hung (supported at the top and the bottom), the stock must pass through and be supported by the hull. This is usually accomplished by a component known as a rudder log, or port. In its simplest form it’s a tube or pipe through which the stock passes. Nearly all logs incorporate two other components—a bearing and a stuffing box. The bearing may be as simple as a bronze or nonmetallic bushing or tube inside of which the stock turns; or it may be as complex as a self-aligning roller-bearing carrier that absorbs rudder deflection and prevents binding.

This rudder log is leaking, corroded, and poorly supported, with washers compressing into the backing plate and gelcoat cracking off.

The log transfers tremendous loads and must be exceptionally strong and well bonded to the hull. Fiberglass vessels should rely on a well-tabbed-in purpose-made tube (its filaments are wound and crisscrossed and thus quite strong) that is supported with a series of vertical gussets that distribute the load to the hull’s surrounding structure. On some spade rudder installations, particularly where the log is not, or could not, be long enough, an additional bearing is used at the top of the stock, above the quadrant, where it is supported by the vessel’s deck.

On metal boats the design is similar but with a metal tube welded in place, supported by substantial gussets. For vessels with skeg-hung rudders, the strength of the rudder log is still important. However, because the loads are not imparted by a cantilevered structure, logs used in these applications may be less substantially supported.

Stuffing Box

Unless the rudder log’s upper terminus is well above the waterline or on the weather deck, it is typically equipped with a stuffing box similar to those used for propeller shafts. But unlike a shaft stuffing box, the rudder’s stuffing box shouldn’t leak much, if any, seawater. Because the rudder turns slowly, friction and heat are not a problem. Packing (i.e., waxed-flax packing like that in traditional stuffing boxes) can typically be tight enough to stem all leakage, and lubricating it with heavy water-resistant grease will reduce friction and leakage.

Stuffing boxes that are above the waterline while the vessel is at rest, such as those on many sailboats, are often the most chronically leaky, because the packing tends to dry out and contract. To avoid this, liberally apply grease to the packing material itself; this requires partial disassembly of the stuffing box. Alternatively, a galvanically compatible (316 stainless or Monel for bronze stuffing boxes) grease fitting may be installed and periodically pumped with grease to keep the packing lubricated.

Rudder Bearings

Well-engineered rudder bearings support and lubricate the rudderstock.

Rudder bearings range from the basic rudderstock turning inside a bronze log, to the sophisticated aluminum, stainless, or nonmetallic roller bearings installed in a self-aligning carrier. For most cruising vessels, the choice of bearing is not as important as knowing which type of bearing is in use and its strengths, weaknesses, and maintenance needs. The simple shaft that turns inside a bronze log is durable and reliable but more friction-prone than roller bearings. If lubrication access or a grease fitting is available, it should be pumped with grease periodically, although most rudders rely solely on seawater for lubrication, which is perfectly acceptable.

This synthetic upper bearing worked fine in cool temperatures, but when it heated up in the sun, the material expanded and caused binding in system.

Nonmetallic sleeve and roller bearings, often made of ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE), require no maintenance, are extremely slippery, and will not absorb water, an essential attribute for nonmetallic bearings. Delrin and nylon, for instance, will absorb water, expand, and lead to rudder binding. On several high-performance sailing vessels, I’ve had to replace nylon or similar bearings with UHMWPE to restore the steering to its proper specification and effort level.

Propeller Removal

Shaft removal should be possible with the rudder in place. This conventional skeg-hung rudder has a hole to facilitate shaft removal when the rudder is swung hard to port or starboard.

Whether a rudder is a spade or skeg-hung design, it’s important to determine how it will affect the removal of the propeller or the propeller shaft. Is there enough clearance between the shaft’s trailing end and the leading edge of the rudder to allow the propeller to be removed or to use a propeller removal tool? Can the shaft be slid out without removing the rudder? Some rudders are equipped with shaft-removal holes, while others are installed slightly offset from the centerline; or the rudder’s leading edge has an indentation to allow the shaft to be removed. The propeller should be removable without having to unship the rudder. The dimensional rule of thumb calls for clearance of at least the prop’s hub length between the aft end of the shaft and the leading edge of the rudder.

Rudder Stops

The rudder’s movement should be unimpeded as it swings approximately 35° in either direction, making no contact with hull or propeller. Just as important as the rudder travel is how its movement is checked. Other than for the smallest runabouts with jacketed cables, all inboard rudders should rely on hydraulic cylinders to check rudder travel (provided they are designed to do so, and most are) or be equipped with robust stops. Stops must be integral to the hull, supported by substantial tabbing or a welded and through-bolted structure for fiberglass vessels, or by welded angle and shelves for metallic hulls.

About the Author: For many years a full-service yard manager, Steve now works with boatbuilders and owners and others in the industry as Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting. He is an ABYC-certified Master Technician, and sits on that organization’s Hull and Piping Project Technical Committee. He’s also the technical editor of Professional BoatBuilder .

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Sailboat Rudders

Sailboat Rudders

The primary purpose of sailboat rudders is of course to give the helmsman the ability to steer the boat, but a well-designed one will also provide hydrodynamic lift to windward, in the same manner as does the keel.

Placing sailboat rudders into distinct categories is fairly straight forward - they're either:

Outboard or inboard rudders, which can be
Unbalanced, balanced or semi-balanced, and be
Keel-hung, skeg-hung, transom-hung or spade rudders.

Take a stroll around any fair-sized boatyard during the lay-up season and you'll see examples of most of them...

Inboard & Outboard Sailboat Rudders

If the rudderstock passes through the underside of a boat's hull, it's an inboard rudder. Conversely, if it doesn't, it's an outboard rudder.

Most outboard rudders are turned by a tiller as there's no rudderstock to which a wheel-steering quadrant can be mounted.

The two rudders shown below are quite different examples of outboard rudders.

Fig 1 shows an example of a keel-hung outboard rudder that is seldom seen on today's cruising boats.

Outboard rudders like the one in Fig 2 can be easily removed for service or repair with the vessel afloat. You might struggle with trying to do that with the 'barn door' of a rudder in Fig 1 though!

Examples of inboard rudders can be seen in Figs 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 & 9.

Unbalanced Rudders

This unbalanced rudder is supported by a full-length skeg.

It is unbalanced because the entirety of the rudder is aft of its axis, the axis being on the centreline of the rudderstock.

When turned, the full force of the water flowing past the skeg acts on one side of the rudder - a fact that will be very much apparent to the helmsman, particularly on a tiller-steered boat.

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How To Make A Rudder For A Sailboat?

REPAIRS AND MAINTENANCE

Sailboats are propelled through the water by wind power, and a rudder accomplishes steering. It is a flat piece of wood or metal that hangs in the water and is fastened to the back of the boat. A tiller connected to the rudder controls its side-to-side movement.

A crucial skill that releases your sailboat’s full potential is making a rudder. Start by carefully choosing the right materials, such as wood or fiberglass, based on your preferences and financial constraints.

Next, meticulously design the rudder’s shape to ensure optimal hydrodynamics. With precision, cut the materials according to your design, shaping them into the perfect rudder. But that’s not all; we have more valuable steps ahead to enhance your rudder’s performance.

Ready to take control of your sailboat like a seasoned captain? Let’s delve into the detailed process of making your very own rudder, turning your sailing dreams into reality!

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What Materials Do You Need to Make a Rudder?

The following supplies are necessary to launch this ship if you’re prepared to learn the technique of building sailboat rudders. Let’s take a step-by-step look at how to create this nautical beauty and then give you the lowdown on what you’ll need.

Perfect Wood

When choosing the right wood for your sailboat rudder, durability and water resistance are key. Two types of wood are excellent choices: marine-grade plywood and hardwoods like oak or mahogany.

Marine-grade plywood boasts superior resistance to water and decay, making it an ideal option for exposed marine environments. On the other hand, hardwoods bring a touch of elegance and strength to your rudder, but they may require additional waterproofing measures.

Plywood Thickness – Striking the Right Balance

The thickness of the plywood used for your rudder is a crucial consideration. While thicker plywood tends to be more durable, it can also add unnecessary weight to your sailboat.

In general, a thickness of ¾-inch plywood strikes the appropriate mix between strength and weight, ensuring that your rudder stays functional and maneuverable.

Your sailboat’s size and weight will determine whether you can use somewhat thinner plywood without compromising strength.

Get yourself a trusty jigsaw, a powerful drill, and a router. Oh, and don’t forget some sturdy clamps because you’re going to need them to hold things together while the magic happens.

Glue it All Together:

Time to get sticky! You’re going to need some marine-grade epoxy or a heavy-duty adhesive to bond those plywood layers together. Trust me; you want to go heavy on that glue – no room for gaps in this masterpiece!

Gudgeons and Hinges:

Now, we can’t forget the rudder’s backbone – the gudgeons and hinges. Look for some stainless steel gudgeons, my friends. They’re tough, they’re reliable, and they can handle the rough waters like a champ.

Pivot Bolts:

Ah, yes, the pivot bolts. Get yourself some stainless steel bolts because you want them to hold up against the salty sea spray. You don’t want those rusty bolts seizing up when you’re out on the water, do you?

The Sturdy Tiller:

Don’t forget about the tiller! Craft it from solid wood, and ensure it’s long enough to give you proper steering control. You want to feel that connection with your rudder, am I right?

Eye Bolts and Cleats:

We need some eye bolts and cleats to keep things in place. These little guys will make your life much easier when raising and lowering the rudder. Just the way we like it: simple and effective.

How Do You Design and Shape the Rudder Blade?

Now that we have gathered our materials, it’s time to delve into the art of designing and shaping the sailboat rudder blade. A well-crafted rudder not only ensures smooth steering but also enhances the overall performance of your vessel.

The Art of Rudder Blade Design

Designing your rudder blade is akin to crafting a work of art. The key considerations are the blade’s size, shape, and foil design. First, determine the ideal size of the blade based on the dimensions of your sailboat. A larger sailboat will require a proportionately larger rudder blade to ensure effective steering control.

Next, the shape of the rudder blade plays a crucial role in its hydrodynamics. A balanced and streamlined shape will reduce drag and enable smooth maneuvering. Many sailors opt for a symmetrical foil design, similar to an airplane wing, which ensures equal pressure on both sides of the blade for optimal performance.

Shaping the Rudder Blade – From Plywood to Foil

Now, let’s roll up our sleeves and bring our rudder blade design to life! Start by tracing your desired shape onto the plywood using a template or drawing your unique design. Precision is key here, as even small deviations can impact the rudder’s functionality.

With the outline in place, carefully cut the plywood along the traced lines using a sharp saw. For the finest precision, a jigsaw or bandsaw is ideal. As you make each cut, envision the graceful motion of the blade gliding through the water, guided by your craftsmanship.

Perfecting the Foil Shape – Hydrodynamics at Play

Ah, the magic of hydrodynamics! Now that we have the basic shape of the rudder blade let’s fine-tune it to achieve the perfect foil shape. The foil shape, similar to an airplane wing, generates lift and minimizes drag as the water flows past it.

For a symmetrical foil shape, gently taper the front and back edges of the blade to create a graceful curve. Imagine the water caressing these contours, guiding your sailboat effortlessly across the waves.

Remember, precision is paramount in achieving an efficient foil shape. Use a sander to smooth the edges, refining the curves and angles until you achieve hydrodynamic perfection. Remember that even subtle adjustments can significantly affect your sailboat’s performance.

How to Assemble the Rudder Gudgeons and Hinges?

We’ll now get started on the rudder assembly process and learn how to put the hinges and gudgeons—two crucial parts—together. These essential components not only guarantee the correct operation of your sailboat’s rudder, but they also offer the flexibility required for easy navigation.

Understanding the Role of Rudder Gudgeons

Gudgeons and Pintles : Rudder gudgeons are small metal brackets or plates attached to the transom of your sailboat. They serve as the pivot point for your rudder, allowing it to swing smoothly. Corresponding to the gudgeons are pintles, which are mounted on the rudder’s sides and fit into the gudgeons to form the hinge mechanism.
Material Matters: Rudder gudgeons are typically made from marine-grade stainless steel or other corrosion-resistant materials. The robustness of these components ensures their longevity in the harsh marine environment.

Assembling the Rudder Gudgeons and Hinges

With a clear understanding of the gudgeons’ role, it’s time to assemble these vital components:

Preparing the Transom: Begin by positioning the rudder gudgeons on the transom’s surface. Ensure that they are aligned and centered to create a stable hinge point for your rudder.
Marking and Drilling: Using the gudgeons as guides, mark the spots for the screw holes on the transom. Carefully drill pilot holes to avoid any splitting or damage to the wood.
Mounting the Gudgeons: With the pilot holes in place, attach the rudder gudgeons firmly to the transom using stainless steel screws. Ensure a snug fit to maintain stability during rudder operation.
Fitting the Rudder: With the gudgeons securely mounted, position your rudder with pintles in place. Ensure that the pintles fit smoothly into the gudgeons, allowing for easy movement.
Securing the Rudder: After testing the movement of the rudder, secure it in place with retaining pins or bolts. This prevents the rudder from accidentally dislodging during your sailing adventures.

Fine-Tuning the Hinge Mechanism

To achieve flawless rudder movement, fine-tuning the hinge mechanism is crucial:

Lubrication: Applying marine-grade lubricant to the gudgeons and pintles enhances the smoothness of the hinge action, reducing friction and ensuring easy steering.
Eliminating Play: Check for any unwanted play or wobbling in the rudder movement. Adjust the gudgeons or pintles if needed to achieve a snug fit without excess movement.

What’s the Process of Making the Tiller?

Ahoy, shipbuilders! As we continue our voyage into sailboat construction, it’s time to focus on the essential tiller – the steering companion of our rudder. Making the perfect tiller ensures smooth navigation and precise control. So, let’s set our sights on the art of tiller craftsmanship!

Selecting the Perfect Tiller Material

Before we set our hands to work, let’s consider the materials for your tiller:

Wood: Wooden tillers are a popular choice, offering a classic and traditional look. Hardwoods like oak, teak, or mahogany are excellent options due to their strength and resistance to water damage.
Composites: For a modern touch, composites like fiberglass or carbon fiber provide a lightweight and durable alternative.
Length Matters: Choose a tiller length that allows for easy maneuvering while providing enough leverage for precise steering control.

Crafting the Tiller Handle

Shaping the Handle: Start with a rectangular piece of wood or composite and shape it into a comfortable grip. Rounding the edges and creating ergonomic contours enhances handling and reduces hand fatigue.
Pivoting Mechanism: If you desire a tiller that pivots for ease of navigation, consider attaching a pivot bolt to the tiller handle’s base. This allows the tiller to lift easily when needed.

Reinforcing the Tiller for Strength

Multiple Layers: If using wood, glue multiple layers of plywood together to achieve the desired thickness. This ensures your tiller can withstand the forces of steering.
Bolt or Eye Loops: Strengthen the pivot point by inserting a bolt or eye loop through the tiller handle. This provides a secure connection to the rudder mechanism.
Tapering the Tiller: Taper the tiller towards the rudder end, reducing its width for a sleek and aesthetically pleasing look.

Finishing Touches

Varnishing: Apply marine-grade varnish to protect the tiller from water damage and give it a glossy finish.
Grip Enhancement: Consider adding a non-slip grip surface, such as rubber or leather, to the tiller handle for improved control in wet conditions.
Customization: Add a personal touch by carving your sailboat’s name or a unique design onto the tiller.

How to Install the Rudder on the Sailboat?

As we approach the final leg of our sailboat construction, it’s time to install the rudder – the heart and soul of our steering mechanism. A well-executed rudder installation ensures smooth sailing and ultimate control.

Choosing the Right Rudder Location

Before we dive into the installation, let’s consider the ideal location for your rudder:

Transom Position: The transom, or the rear part of the boat, is the most common location for rudder installation. Ensure that the rudder gudgeons are aligned with the pintles on the rudder blade for a secure and stable fit.
Clear Path: Make sure there is enough clearance around the rudder to allow for smooth movement without any obstructions.
Balance and Control: Position the rudder in a way that provides optimal balance to your sailboat and allows for effortless control during navigation.

Mounting the Rudder Gudgeons

Precise Measurements: Use a level and measuring tape to ensure the gudgeons are mounted at the correct height and alignment on the transom.
Marking and Drilling: Carefully mark the spots for the screw holes and drill pilot holes to prevent any damage to the transom.
Securing the Gudgeons: Attach the rudder gudgeons firmly to the transom using stainless steel screws. Double-check their alignment to ensure a proper hinge mechanism.

Fitting the Rudder in Place

Pintle Alignment: Carefully insert the pintles on the rudder blade into the gudgeons on the transom. Ensure a smooth and snug fit to allow for effortless rudder movement.
Testing the Rudder: Move the rudder back and forth to test its range of motion. Verify that it swings smoothly and without any binding or resistance.
Securing the Rudder: Once satisfied with the rudder’s movement, secure it in place by inserting retaining pins or bolts through the pintles and gudgeons.

Waterproofing and Final Checks

Before setting sail, let’s take some additional steps to protect your rudder and ensure a safe voyage:

Waterproofing: Apply marine-grade sealant or epoxy to the areas around the gudgeons and pintles to prevent water from seeping into the transom.
Quality Checks: Perform a thorough inspection of the rudder installation, checking for any loose fittings or potential points of concern.
Rudder Lines : If your rudder design includes lines for raising and lowering, make sure they are properly attached and secured to the tiller and rudder.

How Does a Rudder Work on a Sailboat?

A sailboat rudder is a vertical, blade-like appendage mounted either on the transom (the flat surface of the stern) or under the boat. It operates by deflecting water flow: when the helmsman turns the rudder, the water strikes it with increased force on one side and decreased force on the other.

The rudder moves toward lower pressure, causing the boat to turn. During turns, the boat pivots around a point close to its middle, changing direction as the stern and bow move in opposite directions.

A tiller, a wooden or aluminum pole affixed to the top of the rudder on smaller sailboats, is often used to control the rudder. Hydraulic, steam or electrical machinery turns the rudder on larger vessels.

Why Is the Rudder So Important?

The rudder is crucial for steering and changing the direction of a sailboat. It is mounted at the stern and controlled by the helm or tiller. When the helmsman turns the wheel or tiller, the rudder moves to either side, which turns the boat’s bow left or right.

This directional control is essential for navigating the water, avoiding obstacles, and maintaining stability during sailing. A functional rudder ensures safe and efficient maneuvering of the sailboat, making it an indispensable component of any sailing vessel.

What Are the Different Types of Rudders for Sailboats?

There are four types of rudders for sailboats: Full Rudder, outboard Rudder, Spade Rudder, and Skeg-Mounted Rudder.

Full Keel Rudders:

Some sailboats boast a full keel rudder, which extends along the entire length of the boat’s bottom. These rudders offer stability and protection, making them ideal for rough waters. Back in the day, many cruising boats rocked the full keel, but times have changed, and modern sailors tend to favor speedier fin keels.

Spade Rudders:

Spade rudders are like the cool cats of the sailing world, often found on center-console boats. They’re separate from the keel and turn easily, thanks to water flow rushing against both fore and aft edges. Less wet area means they’re fast and perfect for modern sailboat designs.

Skeg-Mounted Rudders:

If safety and performance are your jam, the skeg rudder is your go-to choice. Popular on current production boats, the skeg rudder combines the best of both worlds. It’s modern, stable, and performs like a champ.

Outboard Rudders:

These rudders are the real deal when it comes to simplicity. They can be unbalanced, balanced, or semi-balanced, and their location behind the hull determines whether they’re inboard or outboard.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Is the Best Material for the Rudder?

A boat’s rudder is a steering device. To withstand the power of the water, it is typically composed of sturdy and rigid material like metal. The best material for a rudder depends on where it will be used. If it is used in salt water, it must resist corrosion. When used in freshwater, it must be resistant to sunlight degradation.

What Type of Bearing Holds a Rudder?

Two bearings commonly hold a rudder in place: roller and journal. Roller bearings are composed of small cylindrical rollers arranged perpendicular to the axis of the shaft. On the other hand, journal bearings consist of a smooth inner surface on which the shaft rotates.

Do Motor Boats Have Rudders?

Rudders are a feature of motor boats used to steer the vessel. It is attached to the back of the boat and regulates the direction.

What Happens If the Rudder Is Too Big?

When the rudder is overly large, the boat may veer off course. The rudder is what steers the boat; thus, if it is excessively large, it could be challenging to manage the boat’s direction. A boat might become slower if its rudder is excessively large and causes drag.

How Much Is a New Rudder?

The kind, size, and material all affect the price of a new rudder. A sailboat’s rudder can usually range between $200 and $500 for small sailboats and between $800 and $2,000 for bigger vessels. It’s best to consult with a marine supplier or boatyard for precise pricing.

Congratulations, skilled shipwrights! You’ve navigated the intricate waters of sailboat rudder construction with finesse. From selecting the right materials to crafting the perfect foil shape, you’ve honed your craftsmanship like seasoned sailors. With the rudder securely mounted and tested, your sailboat is ready to embrace the vast horizon.

As you set sail on new adventures, may your well-crafted rudder be your faithful companion, steering you toward endless nautical wonders. Embrace the sea’s call and embark on a journey filled with the wind’s whispers and the thrill of the open ocean. Smooth sailing awaits you! Bon voyage!

Jack K. Pride

Jack K. Pride is an accomplished author and a prominent figure in the boating community. With a passion for boats and a deep understanding of the maritime industry, he has been sharing his expertise through his compelling articles on OutedWeb.com.

Known for his insightful and informative writing style, Jack's articles provide valuable insights, tips, and knowledge to boat enthusiasts worldwide. His dedication to the subject matter and commitment to delivering high-quality content makes him a trusted voice in the boating world.

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Rudder Construction

Discussion in ' Sailboats ' started by James Sullivan , Feb 28, 2022 .

construction

James Sullivan New Member

My Tartan 30 is in need of a new rudder. Being that a replacement could run up to $2000, I am inspired to build my own. By the looks of my first run of research I am equipped with all necessary tools and have my friends welding shop to build my stainless steel plate and rod assembly. I am starting this thread to post updates of my build and also start a dialogue with any of you who might have done the same. Any and all advice, criticism, etc is appreciated. Thanks, wish me luck. James

DogCavalry Senior Member

Welcome James. I know there are many threads from people who have made rudders. I'm not in that number. Good luck. I'll check in regularly.

DogCavalry said: ↑ Welcome James. I know there are many threads from people who have made rudders. I'm not in that number. Good luck. I'll check in regularly. Click to expand...

Tops Senior Member

Hello James, Will you be re-using anything from the old one? Making a mold off the old rudder? I always get a kick out of Andy at Boatworks Today: https://www.boatworkstoday.com/videos/rebuilding-a-foam-cored-rudder-part-1/

Unfortunately Tops, I'm afraid the old blade is in the drink. If I had it I would run a mold for sure. As of right now, I'm going to build from scratch. Instead of trying to perfectly replicate the original rudder, I plan to go with a simple foil design and put an emphasis on simplicity and effectivity. It does not have to look perfect, but it does have to work. Taking measurements and setting dimensions tomorrow. By the way, Andy is the best.

Looking forward to your build thread. My eyes light up at most anything with a foil... PS: Do you have the hinge hardware that hangs off the skeg or is that part of the replacement process too? Tartan 30 rudder https://www.flickr.com/photos/radicalcy/16349819082/

sailhand Senior Member

If its a balanced rudder post dimensions and get someone to draw it for you then source the nearest cnc machine and get them to mill it for you, quickest and easiest way to do the job. Make the core from your preferred material and once milled the rest of the process is fairly simple. Determine where the rudder stock is and cut the blank rudder to fit it rejoin all pieces fair and glass. Make sure to fit flag to rudder stock to prevent stock spinning inside rudder. Glass and fair the outside. If so desired remove a few inches from rudder tip and after glassing rudder reattach tip with less glass and maybe softer material to be sacrificial and lessen damage to rudder in case of grounding.

Rudder longer than keel - too risky?

Rudder restoration

50 ft. Kaufman skeg and rudder

Weather Helm on IOR Ranger 37 - Rudder Modifications?

Design principle of triangular rudder planform

Cavalier 26, Rudder

Auxilary rudder

canting rudder ?

Waszp rudder box & tiller

Building a balanced spade rudder

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Statement of the Russian

Statement of the Russian section of the IWA in relation to events in Khimki

We, militants of the Confederation of Revolutionary Anarcho-syndicalists (Section of the International Workers Association in Russia) are in full solidarity with the residents of Khimki and with environmental community, who protest against the barbaric destruction of the forest Khimki during the construction of railroad route. We consider for intolerable that the city authorities are using gang of neo-Nazi thugs to fight the defenders of the forest.

Recognizing the validity and fairness of civil resistance, we warn at the same time against any attempts to translate an just public outrage in the nationalist channel. In this regard, we are appalled that in the recent protests in front of Khimki Administration, some persons acting on behalf of the "anti-fascists" and "anarchists", chanted chauvinistic slogans in support of the "Russian" forest, unfurled banners, deliberately written in Church Slavonic fonts, and called the current power "occupational", like German Nazis in 1941. We are confident that our environment does not belong to any individual "people" or "ethnicity", but is the common heritage of mankind and the key to its survival. Calls to protect "Russian" forest from certain alien invaders (as implied, "non-Russian") only fueled the nationalist sentiments and are completely unacceptable in the mouths of people who consider themselves "anti-fascists" and, moreover, anarchists!

We are outraged by the attempts of people, borrowing nationalistic slogans, to use for self-promouting the name of Stanislav Markelov who was a convinced antinatsionalist. We remember that in the pages of the “Red Book of Antifa" Stanislaw called leftists to abandon patriotic phrases. Attempts to invoke his name in the course of action under nationalist slogans are not allowed.

DEATH TO NATIONALISM!

OUT THE NATIONALISTS FROM SOCIAL MOVEMENTS!

NO WAR BETWEEN PEOPLES - NO PEACE BETWEEN CLASSES!

REPRESSIONS IN MOSCOW In the

REPRESSIONS IN MOSCOW

In the morning on July 29, libertarian antifascist Alexey Gaskarov was arrested on the street by people in civilian clothes and taken to an unknown destination. As it turned out they were employees of the so called “Anti-Extremist Center" of police. They broke most of the rules, which are described in the Law. That night at his apartment was searched without a warrant or any other providing paper, there was no inventory of the property and witnesses.

Alexey is known in social amnd libertarian circles of Moscow and is opposed to violence and pogrom-style actions. He was never seen in the nationalist speeches. Therefore, it is clear that imposing on him the blame for the attack on the building of Khimki administration, during which slogans of national-patriotic nature were shot, the authorities try now to discredit the independent social movement.

Alexey is charged under "hooliganism". On July 31 the process began, and Alexey can obtain until 7 years of prison!

We encourage to disseminate this information and to protest.

Freedom for Alexey Gaskarov!

Quote: chanted chauvinistic

chanted chauvinistic slogans in support of the "Russian" forest, unfurled banners, deliberately written in Church Slavonic fonts

Look, I agree that it is most important to discuss if "save Russian forest" is a chauvinistic slogan, or if Church Slavonic fonts are politically correct from point of view of anarchist political theory, but this is perhaps not the most appropriate moment.

But thanks for sharing with us the position of the mighty international, I am sure it entertained many in this board.

BTW, anyone know where I may download anarcho-syndicalistically correct fonts, or ensure that my current fonts are not fascist?

The question about slogans is

The question about slogans is a question about action. Moreover, there was a cry "Beat the jews" ("Bey zhidow"). One can listen it in you tube film about action.

So, I propose don`t glorify this action and instead to help to anarchist comrade Gaskarov which is now in process against him (in false relation with the case). We will inform about address for send protest e-letters and faxes

A propos: plese

A propos: plese anarcho-syndicalist fonts :))

http://aragon.cnt-ait.es/wp-content/libertariaCNT.ttf

Quote: Moreover, there was a

Moreover, there was a cry "Beat the jews" ("Bey zhidow"). One can listen it in you tube film about action.

In which moment of the film? Tell me minute and seconds.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqQFtJMBPbc&feature=related

Quote: http://www.youtube.com

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqQFtJMBPbc&feature=related 3.37/3.38

I think the shout is very unclear, it is by one person (perhaps random idiot from the city) and only once. If it was "bey jidov", I am rather sure he would have been beaten up if he did it other time and more clearly.

At this time 3.37/3.38 the

At this time 3.37/3.38 the man, running behind the camera, shouts "Mercedes", it's rhyme to the slogan "russkiy les" (russian forest), maybe because this man didn't like the slogan or it's joke. Russian is my mother-tongue, I didn't hear any "bey jidov" and other fucking slogans on this video! Many people dislike this slogan, I mean "russian forest", though it was an irony to nazi scum's chant. It's just an attempt to show nazi, that they haven't anything, we just want to take back what they stole, the name of nation couldn't be a part of nazi "culture"! it's what it is all about! I can't understand you, why are you against us, why do you want to put us down? Try to understand at first, and when - write such things!

Many people hear about

Many people hear about "zhidy" and your tentatives are false. Of course, it was not cleare prononced. Of course, it was neither "official" slogan not position of majority of demonstrants. The question is another: by many antifa in Russia patriotism is tolerable.

In my opinion, such jokes are impossible! Moreover in Russia.

And an other question: you can imagine German antifa crying "Save GERMAN forest" and writing slogans with Gothic font? ))

>Many people hear about

>Many people hear about "zhidy" who are that people? Where you can hear "zhidy"?? I DON'T HEAR, for the life of me! You know, you act like fucking nazi scum, who write, that they see there like people throw up arms in "zeig heil", while people throw up fists! What do you want??

>patriotism is tolerable. Not for me, not for my friens. Yes it's problem, that there are "public-spirited" antifa, but it's our problem, and we fight with it, like with nazism. Don't draw an analogy between Germany and Russia, everyone knows that it's not the same!

>such jokes are impossible! Do you mean "mercedes" is impossible? Well, you are just dull beggar then!

Actually, I also heard

Actually, I also heard "Mercedes" but I could not figure out why someone would shout that, so I thought "bey jidov" would also be possible. But now I think "mercedes" is a more likely explanation, just as a joke from someone who thought it rhymes with "russkiy les".

Khimki city court left in

Khimki city court left in custody the both suspects of the attack on the city administration, Maxim Solopov and Alexey Gaskarov. They were remanded for two months.

Source: http://www.gazeta.ru/news/lenta/2010/08/03/n_1529159.shtml

(through https://avtonom.org/en/node/12897)

Previous articles on topic, including autotranslations on articles on falsifications of the remand court: https://avtonom.org/en/khimki

Yet there is no information on to which remand prison they are sent and if they will be allowed mail or not.

there is a facebook support

there is a facebook support group here:

http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=123233894390151

Foristaruso is a person who

Foristaruso is a person who is far from real activity of russian anarchists and antifa. The slogan about russian forest is strange and wrong in my opinion. But nobody have right to call "nationalists" 500 antifa and anarchists JUST becouse one groop of people use that rong slogan. Foristaruso is callin "nationalist" everyone who disagree with him.

admin - flaming removed +1

admin - flaming removed

http://www.themoscowtimes.co

http://www.themoscowtimes.com/news/article/khimki-battle-stirs-press-freedom-fears/412036.html

Khimki Battle Stirs Press Freedom Fears

10 August 2010

By Alexander Bratersky

An ongoing tussle over the Khimki forest is raising fears that media freedoms are in jeopardy, with the police pressuring journalists into collaborating or revealing their sources of information, media freedom activists said Monday.

In the most recent incident, investigators on Monday removed Alexander Litoi, a reporter for the liberal Novaya Gazeta daily, from a train in the Moscow region to question him about a July 28 attack on the Khimki City Hall building.

The City Hall building was pelted with stones and smoke grenades by 90 to 300 attackers who protested what they called unlawful destruction of the Khimki forest, slated for a partial demolition to make way for an $8 billion highway despite protests from environmentalists.

Litoi said the police wanted him to disclose information about members of an anti-fascist movement that took responsibility for the City Hall attack, Ekho Moskvy radio reported. He said he was not present during the attack.

Last week, police officers visited the offices of several newspapers, including Kommersant, asking staff for information about the attack.

The requests amount to an attempt to disclose journalists' sources, which can only be revealed on court orders — something that investigators did not obtain, said Andrei Rikhter, a media professor at Moscow State University's school of journalism.

Police investigators have also visited the headquarters of the Svobodnya Pressa online daily, asking for photos of the City Hall attackers.

Several reporters from Komsomolskaya Pravda and Moskovsky Komsomolets have been summoned for questioning, and police officers have also visited the home of the Gazeta.ru reporter Grigory Tumanov.

“These are attempts to discredit reporters,” Rikhter said, adding that the law does not offer the media sufficient protection from police abuse.

“The media law doesn't ban [police] from conducting searches in offices of media outlets and summoning reporters for questioning,” he said.

Moscow and Moscow region police spokespeople provided no comment on the media freedom allegations Monday. A Khimki police officer who spoke on condition of anonymity told The Moscow Times that police were only acting on request of civil authorities in the case. He did not elaborate.

The relatively independent print media has become a source of irritation for the authorities after television, the No. 1 source of news for most of the population, was placed under firm state control in the early 2000s, said Boris Timoshenko, a researcher at the Glasnost Defense Foundation.

He said the Khimki attack has served as a source of embarrassment for the police because the police had failed to react fast enough to make any arrests.

“They are looking for scapegoats,” he said.

Two suspects have been charged in connection with the attack and face up to seven years in prison. The two deny involvement and claim that they were targeted for being prominent figures in the anti-fascist movement.

Some media experts said the police have grown more bold in going after journalists after State Duma Speaker Boris Gryzlov, who chairs the ruling United Russia party, attacked two newspapers for critical articles following the March 29 suicide bombings in the Moscow metro that killed 40 people.

Gryzlov claimed that articles in Vedomosti and Moskovsky Komsomolets about Chechen warlord Doku Umarov, who claimed responsibility for the bombings, showed that the newspapers “might have been connected with terrorist activity.”

Both newspapers filed defamation suits against Gryzlov, but lost.

Solidarity action with the

Solidarity action with the defenders of the Khimki forest in Tel Aviv

Today, the 13th of August there was a picket of solidarity with detained on trumped-up case Russian anti-fascists - Alexey Gaskarov and Maxim Solopov. About 30 demonstrators protested against terror of the Russian government and its cooperation with the Nazis, they also demanded the immediate release of political prisoners and to take action against those responsible for beating defenders of Khimki forests, including the cops.

During the meeting, Putin was personally summoned to a straight up fight by one of the participators , who promised to "beat the Russian imperialism." Some time later, Revolutionary Confederation of Anarcho-Syndicalists (RKAS) hanged a statement about the events in Khimki, as well as an invitation to free market to be held in the heart of Tel Aviv next Friday.

RKAS - Israel and the Committee for Workers' International organised the picket. Performance was organised by 4ert

(source and photos: https://avtonom.org/en/node/12992)

Are there any updates?

It is no way we may translate

It is no way we may translate all news to English and post here.

Currently the most often updated English forum is the facebook group: http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=123233894390151

You may also get an idea what is going on from autotranslations in avtonom.org:

http://www.avtonom.org/en/khimki

Below article from the

Below article from the independent about yesterday's protest in Moscow.

it is important to note, that organisers let to the podium a speaker, appealing for solidarity with Alexey and Maksim, and also a large banner and fundraising for anarchist and anti-fascist prisoners (check photos from avtonom as well: http://www.avtonom.org/node/13072)

http://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/europe/rockstar-critic-takes-new-swipe-at-putin-2059366.html

Rock-star critic takes new swipe at Putin

By Shaun Walker in Moscow

Yuri Shevchuk

Yuri Shevchuk: the Russian rock singer performed at the Moscow protest rally

* Photos enlarge

Latest news - Medvedev

Latest news - Medvedev ordered to halt construction. Below NY TImes article

Halting the construction is for sure good news for the forest, but it may mean that our prisoners are forgotten now (before this, pretty much all of the Khimki movement was solidly supporting arrested anti-fascists, although not necessary all of them accepted the attack against administrative building of Khimki 28th of July).

Kremlin Relents, for Now, to Foes of Highway By MICHAEL SCHWIRTZ Published: August 26, 2010 MOSCOW ‹ For years, environmentalists have risked arrests and sometimes beatings by the police and masked plainclothes thugs in their efforts to halt the construction of a highway linking Moscow to St. Petersburg that they say would destroy the Khimki Forest, one of the few remaining in the Moscow region. Enlarge This Image Pool photo by Mikhail Klimentyev

U2 frontman Bono, left, talks with Russian President Dmitry Medvedev about opposition to a controversial highway project.

Typically in Russia, such efforts lead to little but holding cells or worse for proponents of a cause. But supporters of the Khimki Forest were handed a surprising victory on Thursday when President Dmitri A. Medvedev reacted to the public outcry. He postponed construction of the highway. ³Given the number of appeals, I have made a decision,² Mr. Medvedev said in a message on his video blog. ³I order the government to halt the implementation of the decision to build this highway and conduct further civic and expert discussions.²

He added, ³These have already been conducted, but taking into account heightened resonance this issue has had in society, I do not see anything wrong with returning to these discussions.²

The triumph came not a moment too soon for environmentalists and their supporters. Workers had already begun to clear sections of the forest this summer and had planned to resume in October.

³This has flabbergasted us. It was completely unexpected,² said Sergei Ageyev, a member of the environmental group leading the opposition to the highway. ³It is simply a stunning victory for civil society.²

The decision does not definitively halt construction, but was nevertheless surprising given the strong-arm tactics employed against opponents. During protests in the forest this summer, gangs of masked men attacked environmentalists, beating several. The police have detained others.

Mikhail Beketov, an investigative journalist and outspoken opponent of the highway, was savagely attacked by unidentified men in November 2008 and is now severely brain damaged.

At issue is the fate of a 2,500-acre oak forest, north of Moscow in the town of Khimki. Vladimir V. Putin, the current prime minister and Mr. Medvedev¹s mentor, signed an order for the construction of a new highway traversing the forest when he was still president.

Top officials in the federal government and the powerful governor of the Moscow region have backed the idea as the simplest and most cost effective way to strengthen transportation links between Moscow and St. Petersburg, Russia¹s two largest cities.

Few dispute the need. Currently, the trip by car is a treacherous 430-mile drive on a potholed road populated with aggressive truck drivers and bribe-seeking traffic police officers. The journey can take 10 hours or more.

Environmentalists have called for building the new highway close to the existing road, which runs through an industrial zone. Building the highway through the forest, they say, would disrupt the ecological balance of Moscow, which depends on a shrinking belt of green space around it to help filter air pollution.

³This forest is our air,² Yevgenia Chirikova, the leader of a protest movement, said in an interview at a recent demonstration. ³If this highway goes through the Khimki Forest, a hole will be punched in the protective ring.²

This summer¹s 100-degree temperatures, along with the huge wildfires that blanketed Moscow and the surrounding region with noxious smoke, seem to have persuaded officials to look anew at the arguments of environmentalists, especially since their calls to save the forest seem to have resonated with many residents of this city and beyond.

More than 2,000 people gathered in central Moscow for a protest against the construction plans last weekend, an exceptionally large turnout here. And last month, hundreds of people raided the Khimki mayor¹s office, throwing rocks and smoke bombs in retaliation for earlier attacks on environmentalists defending the forest.

Environmentalists might also have gained a little help from Bono, the U2 frontman. He was in Moscow for a concert on Wednesday, and, after a meeting with Mr. Medvedev, the Interfax news agency reported, offered the Khimki Forest protectors his support.

Moscow anti-fascist

Moscow anti-fascist hospitalised with a brain injury following a torture by police

26th of August, three plain-clothed officers detained anti-fasict Nikita Nikolaevich Chernobaev in Moscow suburb of Ramenskoye, born 1991. According to lawyer and human rights activist Mikhail Trepashkin.,Nikita was taken to local premises of Ministry of Interior, where an employee of the security service FSB, began to demand from him a confession for his participation to an action at the administrative building of the city of Khimki July 28, 2010.

During his first interrogation he succeeded to make a phone call to his mother, saying that he was not allowed legal counsel and that he will sign anything police demands. The mother asked: "Are they beating you up?". Nikita answered: "Yes." Chernobaev was only released at 1 AM 27th of August , after having signed a "confession" and an agreement on further cooperation.

After leaving the police station, mother called an ambulance. Nikita told that they demanded him to sign a confession about having been in Khimki and witnessed some people having participated to the action, and when he refused, they beat him to the head and other parts of the body, dressed head bag and blocked the air for breathing.

After such torture, he signed everything without reading it. After release, he had visible traces from the handcuffs on his hands, traces from suffocation around his neck and a black eye.

Paramedics brought Chernobaev to a hospital where doctors reported traces of torture ito the local police station. They recorded a statement. After that, the same three officers who beat Chernobaev attempted to pick up Nikita from the hospital. For security reasons, he was transferred to a hospital in Moscow However, this step does not guarantee him a calm treatment.

According to Trepashkin, these three police officers first declared to Chernobaev that they are from the criminal investigation, and during interrogation they claimed to be from the FSB,. They flatly refused to give their names.

Please call to number +7-496-46-342-10, and ask names of the people who tortured him. It is with this phone they called mother of Nikita and tried to find out to which hospital Chernobaev was moved.

Anarchist Black Cross of Moscow P.O. Box 13 109028 Moscow Russia abc-msk AA riseup DD net http://www.avtonom.org/abc http://www.myspace.com/abcmsc

We are now also in facebook - please like both of our pages if you have an account!

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Anarchist-Black-Cross-of-Moscow/144050225617540 (in English) http://www.facebook.com/pages/Anarhiceskij-Cernyj-Krest-Moskva/146337378727567 (in Russian)

(source: http://avtonom.org/en/node/13141)

To magidd: Oh yes ))) We in

Oh yes ))) We in the KRAS are very very far from REAL activity. So far that 2 comrades from our organization made strikes in their workplaces in May. May be mister MagiDD made it too?

The "wrong" (only wrong??) slogan was used not by "a group" but by organizators.

For example, I call nationalist you which wrote about "jewish mafia regime" in Ukraine in 1919?

Global action day

Global action day 2.0

November 12–15, 2010: New International Days of Action We Demand that the Russian Authorities Close the Khimki Case and Drop All Charges against Alexei Gaskarov and Maxim Solopov

In late October 2010, Russian social activists Alexei Gaskarov and Maxim Solopov were released from police custody on their own recognizance by the Khimki Municipal Court. They had been arrested a day after a protest in defense of the Khimki Forest on July 28, 2010. Now they are free pending trial, but the criminal case against them has not been closed. They have been formally charged with disorderly conduct, and if convicted, they could be sentenced to up to seven years in prison. The dates of their trials have not been set, but meanwhile prosecutors are demanding that Alexei and Maxim be returned to police custody. Aside from Alexei and Maxim, there are two other people who have been charged in the case, and prosecutors might bring charges against even more people in the very new future. Since Alexei and Maxim were arrested in late July, police investigators have been stubbornly fabricating arrest protocols, evidence, and eyewitness testimony and using force to extract statements from the hundreds of people they have hunted down and detained. What will happen to all these thick case files filled with fabrications? They will form the basis of the prosecution’s case in court. And so the fact that Alexei and Maxim have now been released from jail is not the end of the battle but a signal that we must continue to act decisively on their behalf. We will not allow the authorities to cover up the illegal destruction of the forest and the persecution of its defenders with the soiled robes of counterfeit justice. We will force the authorities to close the Khimki Case and drop charges against all activists!

Why do the Russian authorities insist on turning activists into criminals and demanding prison sentences for them? For the same reason that they have either not launched or halted investigations into the near-fatal beating of journalist Mikhail Beketov, the murder of newspaper worker Sergei Protazanov, and the numerous attacks on Khimki residents. The policemen who beat up environmentalists defending the forest and arrested people participating in legal pickets have not been punished. The police investigators who tortured witnesses in the Khimki Case have not been punished. Can we expect fair trials for Alexei and Maxim when we have witnessed lawlessness and injustice so many times? Khimki judges have on numerous occasions shown all of us that we cannot count on their respect for the law and common sense. We demand that the case be closed!

The protest action that took place in Khimki on July 28, 2010, was a response to the lawlessness and violence perpetrated against local residents, journalists, and activists. It was a highly emotional response to the fact that all previous protests had not just been ignored by the authorities but had been cruelly suppressed. As a result of this protest, the Russian authorities began heeding the voice of the forest’s defenders. The campaign to defend the forest caught this gust of hot July wind and continued to act using other means. The authorities must end their persecution of the people who took part in this protest and the forest defenders. All charges against Alexei Gaskarov, Maxim Solopov, and other activists must be dropped.

What You Can Do

1. During the international days of action on November 12–15, 2010, hold eye-catching protest actions in your cities at official political and cultural events organized by the Russian authorities as well as outside Russian Federation embassies and consulates. Demand to meet with official Russian representatives and give them your petitions. Any Russian company, product or event can be a successful occasion for your protests.

2. Send faxes to the Khimki Municipal Court (+7-495-572-8314), the Moscow Region Prosecutor’s Office (+7-495-621-5006) and the President of the Russian Federation (+7-495-606-2464), demanding that the case be closed and all charges against Alexei Gaskarov, Maxim Solopov, and other activists dropped.

3. Continue to send letters to such international organizations as the Council of Europe, the European Parliament, and the UN, asking them to investigate the abuses by Russian authorities and intervene in the case. You can find contact information for these organizations here.

4. Work to get articles published in your local and national media that will inform the broader public about the case of the Khimki hostages and the new threats to civil liberties and the rule of law in Russia. Invite neighbors, friends, and colleagues to your solidarity actions in support of Alexei and Maxim, and ask them to join you in demanding that this fabricated criminal case be closed.

Send information about your solidarity actions as well as copies of letters, faxes, and media publications to our e-mail address: [email protected]

Translations to German, Spanish and French languages are available at http://www.khimkibattle.org, wait for more to come.

(through http://avtonom.org/en/node/13937)

BTW I find it interesting,

BTW I find it interesting, how in international scale, libertarian communist spectrum has been rather passive around this issue, although Gaskarov positions himself explicitly as a libertarian communist (he is a member of Autonomous Action).

Looking at the list of solidarity actions organised around previous action days (http://khimkibattle.org/?p=1036&lang=en), we see that actions abroad are mostly organised by groups like climate activists, social forum spectrum NGO's, trotskists (!) and antifa without clear political orientation.

Could be that libertarian communism around the globe is pretty much a bubble, no matter how fancy libcom.org, and besides IWA and small networked platformist groups, no any libertarian communist movement really exists. BTW IWA was an exception in terms of solidarity, they did wrote a letter to Khimki town prosecutor which made a difference: KRAS published the absurd reply IWA secretariat received and this was small news with overall impact to the campaign.

In general of course sectarian position KRAS picked (support to Gaskarov but not to Solopov) means that they have nobody to work with on this in Russia, and no surprise if that letter writing will be both the first and last efforts from IWA, no matter how pompous declarations KRAS made in September about "getting an international campaign organised"

I get a picture is that libertarian communists in libcom are whining about action in Khimki 28th of July no being pacifist enough, whereas apparently this is not a problem for trotskists, NGOists and other reformists. Although of course opinions of individual syndicalist pacifists in libcom are maybe not reflect main reasons behind the general social anarchist passivity around this issue.

I`m fully desagree wiyh this.

I`m fully desagree wiyh this. The position of KRAS is not sectarian but logical. I don`t think that we as anarchist must make campaigns for authoritarians because we aren`t masochists and we understand very well what they will make against us after his victory. It is very known from history. If any anarchists want to repeat old mistakes - so please without us.

As anarchists, we are against all repressions and prisons. But we make campaigns for people only which is not ennemy od\f anarchism. And we don`t support patriots.

The position of KRAS is shared by comrades from IWA. French CNT-AIT comrades signed also the declaration of KRAS about Khimki: http://www.ainfos.ca/fr/ainfos09058.html

The comrades from Polish ZSP also support this position as I know.

The Secretariat of IWA and the Spanish CNT sent message in support for Gascarov and not for both. The message from Spain and the idiotic answer from Russian juge to this (Gascarov will be in prison until his guiltylessness will be proved) helped much in making public reaction in the case and in the further liberation. It is confirmed from the people of general campaign made for both prisoners.

So thank you very much to all anarchists / anarcho-syndicalists which made protest campaign for comrade Gascarov after our appeal.

personally speaking, i think

personally speaking, i think it was not publically clear what the KRAS position was. i may be wrong (feel free to correct me) but the fact that KRAS supports only one of the two came to my ears only on personal basis. on the other hand, i wouldn't be so strong against support of both, cos i think under other circumastances it could prove ineffective to separate the case (in terms of getting the guys out of jail). and it would be interesting to know Gaskarov's view on this.

oh, and the argument that "what will they do when they come to power", well, i see no connection with this and the case. or is the stalinist guy now about to come to power and wipe out all the anarchists? i am definitely for the historical comparisons and lessons to be taken, but come on, try to keep them in the contexts cos out of context they sound as some dogma one rather laughs at than takes seriously...

To MT: Maxim is not a

To MT: Maxim is not a Stalinist, but he does consider himself as patriot. Alexey is one of his best friends.

To Foristaruso:

Nous sommes atterrés que dans les récentes protestations devant l'administration de Khimki, certaines personnes agissants au nom des "antifascistes" et des "anarchistes", aient lancé des slogans chauvins en défense de la forêt "russe", qu'ils aient déployé des banderoles délibérément écrites en caractères traditionnels slavoniques ("vieux russe", caractéristiques de l'Eglise orthodoxe), et qu'ils aient caractérisé le pouvoir actuel de "puissance occupante", comme on le disait des nazis allemands en 1941. MORT AU NATIONALISME ! NATIONALISTES HORS DES MOUVEMENTS SOCIAUX !

Nice that you have found Polish and French allies in your struggle against politically incorrect fonts (for those libcom readers who missed the story back in August, you may recap here: http://libcom.org/forums/news/anarchists-antifascists-attack-local-adminstration-building-29072010), it is about a time to purge social movements from incorrect fonts, having Maxim in prison would definitely be a necessary first step. I wonder where are other sections of the international - have they been infiltrated by supporters of incorrect fonts?

Moscow anarchists on electoral corruption demonstration

Belo Monte dam protest

The Dongling Lead and Zinc Smelting factory that poisoned hundreds.

China pollution protesters storm lead smelter

Russians protest against corrupt Putin

Indian police brutalise peaceful anti-nuclear protesters

Ukrainians, Russians and Europeans against Putin's war

Mayak-Khimki Mayak Residential complex-Moscow Oblast-Construction Project Profile

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The “Mayak-Khimki Mayak Residential complex-Moscow Oblast-Construction Project Profile” contains information on the scope of the project including project overview and location. The profile also details project ownership and funding, gives a full project description, as well as information on contracts, tendering and key project contacts.

The “Mayak-Khimki Mayak Residential complex-Moscow Oblast-Construction Project Profile” is part of Timetric’s database of 25,000+ construction projects. Our database includes a 10+ year archive of completed projects, full coverage of all global projects with a value greater than $50 million and key contact details for project managers, owners, consultants, contractors and bidders.

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Russian Entites Profiles

Russian Company OOO "FORUM"

Brief profile.

active Commercial

Facts to Consider

The manager is also a CEO in 5 organizations.

There are 2 more firms at this address.

The founder of the organization has changed.

A significant amount of the taxes paid (83.6 mln. RUB.).

The company has been in business for 17 years.

show 1 more positive fact

Complete Profile

1. General Information
2. Registration in the Russian Federation
3. Company's Activities
4. Legal Address
5. Owners, Founders of the Entity
6. OOO "FORUM" CEO
7. Entities Founded by Company
8. Number of Employees
9. Company Finance
10. Entities related to OOO "FORUM"
11. Timeline of key events
12. Latest Changes in the Unified State Register of Legal Entities (USRLE)

General Information

Full name of the organization: OBSHCHESTVO S OGRANICHENNOI OTVETSTVENNOSTIU "FORUM"

TIN: 7703600646 (region of TIN receipt – Moscow)

KPP: 504701001

PSRN: 1067746829292

Location: 141435, Moscow Oblast, Khimki, mkr. Novogorsk, ul. Olimpiiskaia, str. 15, pomeshch. 8

Line of business: Buying and selling of own real estate (OKVED code 68.10)

Organization status: Commercial, active

Form of incorporation: Limited liability companies (code 12300 according to OKOPF)

Registration in the Russian Federation

The tax authority where the legal entity is registered: Mezhraionnaia inspektsiia Federalnoi nalogovoi sluzhby №13 po Moskovskoi oblasti (inspection code – 5047). The tax authority before 12/27/2018 – Inspektsiia Federalnoi nalogovoi sluzhby № 3 po g. Moskve (code 7703).

Registration with the Pension Fund: registration number 060050046716 dated 9 January 2019.

Registration with the Social Insurance Fund: registration number 771702571277191 dated 1 September 2018.

Company's Activities

The main activity of the organization is Buying and selling of own real estate (OKVED code 68.10).

Before 10/21/2019, the main activity of the organization was listed as Wholesale of non-food consumer goods (OKVED code 46.4).

Additionally, the organization listed the following activities:

Legal Address

OOO "FORUM" is registered at 141435, Moscow Oblast, Khimki, mkr. Novogorsk, ul. Olimpiiskaia, str. 15, pomeshch. 8. ( show on a map )

On 12/27/2018 the organization moved its legal address from another region, the previous address was: .

The following organizations are also registered at this address:

OOO "TSENTR FEKHTOVANIIA IM"
OOO "MEREZHI"

Owners, Founders of the Entity

The founders of OOO "FORUM" are

The former founder was:

OOO "FORUM" CEO

The head of the organization (a person who has the right to act on behalf of a legal entity without a power of attorney) since 27 June 2019 is general manager Malyshko Vadim Olegovich (TIN: 771403348290).

Malyshko Vadim Olegovich is the head of 5 more organizations

ASSOTSIATSIIA "RAZVITIE, INNOVATSII, TEKHNOLOGII"
AO "KHIMKI GRUPP"

According to the to the tax service criteria, this is a sign of a mass director.

Also Malyshko Vadim Olegovich is a founder of 4 organizations:

OOO "ZEMELNYE TEKHNOLOGII"
OOO "BRISKLI"

Previously the organization was managed by (general manager from 07/19/2006 until 06/27/2019 * ).

Entities Founded by Company

Currently OOO "FORUM" is listed as a founder in:

Previously the organization was listed as a founder in:

Number of Employees

In 2022, the average number of employees of OOO "FORUM" was 7 people. This is 1 people more than in 2021.

Company Finance

The Authorized capital of OOO "FORUM" is 10 thousand RUB. This is the minimum authorized capital for organizations established in the form of a LTD.

In 2022, the organization received the revenue of 429 million RUB, which is 29.2 million RUB, or by 7.3 %, more than a year ago.

As of December 31, 2022, the organization's total assets were 992 million RUB This is 145 million RUB (by 12.7 %) less than a year earlier.

The net assets of OOO "FORUM" as of 12/31/2022 totaled 262 million RUB.

The OOO "FORUM"’s operation in 2022 resulted in the profit of 115 million RUB. This is by 38.8 % more than in 2021.

The organization is not subject to special taxation regimes (operates under a common regime).

The organization is listed in the small businesses registry. In accordance with the legislation of the Russian Federation, organizations with the annual revenue of up to 800 mln RUB and up to 100 employees fall into the small business category.

Information about the taxes and fees paid by the organization for 2022

The organization had no tax arrears as of 11/10/2023.

The organisation is listed in the register of recipients of state support:

Entities related to OOO "FORUM"

Based on the data from the Unified State Register of Legal Entities, the following legal entities and people are directly or indirectly related to the organization.

Timeline of key events

The legal address changed from to Moscow Oblast, Khimki, mkr. Novogorsk, ul. Olimpiiskaia, str. 15, pomeshch. 8 .
The tax authority where the legal entity is registered was changed to Mezhraionnaia inspektsiia Federalnoi nalogovoi sluzhby №13 po Moskovskoi oblasti (earlier it was Inspektsiia Federalnoi nalogovoi sluzhby № 3 po g. Moskve ).

Latest Changes in the Unified State Register of Legal Entities (USRLE)

08/07/2023 . Submission of information on the issuance or replacement of documents proving the identity of a citizen of the Russian Federation on the territory of the Russian Federation.
03/28/2023 . State registration of changes made to the constituent documents of a legal entity related to changes in information about a legal entity contained in the Unified State Register of Legal Entities, based on an application.
08/18/2021 . State registration of changes made to the constituent documents of a legal entity related to changes in information about a legal entity contained in the Unified State Register of Legal Entities, based on an application.
10/21/2019 . Change of information about a legal entity contained in the Unified State Register of Legal Entities.
06/27/2019 . Change of information about a legal entity contained in the Unified State Register of Legal Entities.
02/20/2019 . Entering information about registration in the Pension Fund of the Russian Federation.
02/01/2019 . Change of information about a legal entity contained in the Unified State Register of Legal Entities.
01/10/2019 . Entering information about registration in the Pension Fund of the Russian Federation.
12/27/2018 . Entering information about accounting with the tax authority.
10/04/2018 . Entering information about registration in the FSS RF.

* The date of change in the Unified State Register of Legal Entities is shown (may be different from the actual date).

The data presented on this page have been obtained from official sources: the Unified State Register of Legal Entities (USRLE), the State Information Resource for Financial Statements, the website of the Federal Tax Service (FTS), the Ministry of Finance and the Federal State Statistics Service.

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IMAGES

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Rudder Design and Construction
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COMMENTS

Building a Faster Rudder
In other words, the 36-inch tiller should not be more than about 2 inches off the center line. If the boat is wheel steered, next time the boat is out of the water, measure the rudder angle with the wheel hard over. Count the number of turns of the wheel it takes to move the rudder from centered to rudder hard over, and measure the wheel diameter.
How to Build a Sailboat Rudder From Scratch
Glass one side of the rudder, let cure. Cut off excess edge stuff and rough sand/grind. Glass other side of rudder, let cure. Cut off excess, sand until flush. Glass edges based upon which were generally 'up' when clamped in a mostly horizontal way (images 4 and 5). Glass the remaining edges.
How to Build Rudders & Centerboards
This entry was posted in Boat Construction, Boat Mods and tagged #1, Captain James R. Watson, centerboard, Epoxyworks #1, Fall 1992, rudder on March 29, 2014 by ewadmin. Post navigation ← Durable Edges for Centerboards & Flip Up Rudders How to Loft Airfoil Sections →
What Is a Sailboat Rudder? An Overview of Its Function and Design
Materials Used in Rudder Construction: Wood, aluminum alloy, stainless steel, and fiberglass-reinforced plastic. Rudder Effectiveness: Influenced by the boat's size, weight, speed, water and wind conditions, and the sailor's skill level. ... Sailboat rudders can last for many years, but at some point, replacement or upgrade may be necessary
Making a Sailboat Rudder for an Offshore Yacht
With the rudder stock fabricated, we began the construction of the rudder core. It was made up from half inch (12mm) marine ply sheets, cut to shape and incorporating cut-outs for the tangs, screwed and glued together. The rudder and skeg was built up as a single unit at this stage.
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Know Your Rudder. After hull integrity, rudder integrity is the most vital component of a seaworthy vessel, yet most sailors pay more attention to LED lighting or smartphone apps than they do to their boat's rudder. Before you shrug off rudder failure as a remote concern, consider that the incidence of mid-ocean rudder failures is close to 1 ...
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Rudder Construction. IMAGE ONE: Tape flanges and wax mold. IMAGE TWO: Spray the mold surface with gelcoat. IMAGE THREE: Lay-up material, one layer of 3/4 oz mat and two layers of 1808 unidirectional roving. Laminate three layers of 2 oz mat in the bottom radius. IMAGE FOUR: Trim excess laminate. Scrape and wax flange.
Duckworks Magazine
Close the lower and upper part of the rudder with a 8 mm plywood piece. Close it on the inside! Fill all nicks, dents and screw holes with epoxy putty. Apply 2 layers of 220 grams/m2 glass cloth. Fill the glass structure with thin epoxy putty and sand down to a smooth surface without sanding in the glass fiber.
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The rudder of a boat is one of the most important components in determining how a boat feels, as it is the primary means of control for the helmsman. A rudder that is poorly designed can contribute to many uncomfortable and sometimes even dangerous sailing characteristics. An unbalanced rudder can contribute to excessive weather or lee helm when sailing…
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This skeletal structure is embedded in a high-density closed-cell plastic foam core, which is sheathed in a thin fiberglass skin. This composite foam-core construction is relatively light with neutral buoyancy, which significantly improves the feel of a sailboat's helm while sailing. Interior rudder structures.
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Know-How: Rigging Emergency Rudders
The SOS Rudder before being deployed (left); Windpilot's SOS Rudder (right) features rugged construction. Another requirement for any good emergency rudder system is that it be easily deployed. ... and designed and built many emergency/backup rudders. His own boat is the Merit 25, Twilight Zone, which he sailed round trip to Kauai and back in ...
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2005 4:28 am. Sailboat: MacGregor 26M. Location: Upper Dublin,PA, USA: 2005M 50hp.Honda4strk.,1979 Phantom Sport Sailboat, 9'Achilles 6HP Merc 4strk. Re: Rudder Construction. by NiceAft » Tue Dec 28, 2021 3:33 am. The rudders on both the X and the M are hollow. The hole is a drain hole.
How To Make A Rudder For A Sailboat
The kind, size, and material all affect the price of a new rudder. A sailboat's rudder can usually range between $200 and $500 for small sailboats and between $800 and $2,000 for bigger vessels. It's best to consult with a marine supplier or boatyard for precise pricing. Final Say. Congratulations, skilled shipwrights! You've navigated ...
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My Tartan 30 is in need of a new rudder. Being that a replacement could run up to $2000, I am inspired to build my own. ... Boat Design Net. Home Boat Design Forums > Design > Sailboats > Rudder Construction. Discussion in 'Sailboats' started by James Sullivan, Feb 28, 2022. Tags: build; construction; diy; rudder; tartan 30; Joined: Feb 2022 ...
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Statement of the Russian section of the IWA in relation to events in Khimki . We, militants of the Confederation of Revolutionary Anarcho-syndicalists (Section of the International Workers Association in Russia) are in full solidarity with the residents of Khimki and with environmental community, who protest against the barbaric destruction of the forest Khimki during the construction of ...
Mayak-Khimki Mayak Residential complex-Moscow Oblast-Construction
The "Mayak-Khimki Mayak Residential complex-Moscow Oblast-Construction Project Profile" contains information on the scope of the project including project overview and location. The profile also details project ownership and funding, gives a full project description, as well as information on contracts, tendering and key project contacts. The "Mayak-Khimki Mayak Residential complex ...
OOO "FORUM": owners, founders, management, details (TIN ...
Full name of the organization: OBSHCHESTVO S OGRANICHENNOI OTVETSTVENNOSTIU "FORUM" TIN: 7703600646 (region of TIN receipt - Moscow) KPP: 504701001 PSRN: 1067746829292 Location: 141435, Moscow Oblast, Khimki, mkr. Novogorsk, ul. Olimpiiskaia, str. 15, pomeshch. 8. Line of business: Buying and selling of own real estate (OKVED code 68.10) Organization status: Commercial, active