model yacht sail making

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Making Sails for Model Ships

December 3, 2017

On my Model Shipways Bluenose build , I debated whether or not to make the sails.  Many (most?) ship models do not include full sails.  The Model Shipways kit was designed with sails, and includes the sail cloth as part of the kit.  The inclusion of sails was actually one of the factors that led me to select this kit for my second build.

With the booms and gaffs rigged and installed, I would basically be finished with the build if I omit the sails.  The remaining rigging is all attached to sails, so I’d leave it off if I didn’t include sails.  However, the sails really do add something to the model, especially for a schooner like this.

So, I decided to make sails.  I’ve never made sails before, so this will be a learning experience.  Here’s how I ended up doing it…

Choosing How Sails are Displayed

An important decision to make before you start is how you’ll be displaying sails.  There are three different ways you can go:

• For Display

(I made those last two names up).

Furled sails are sails that are lowered.  Many modelers choose to do furled sails on their ships.  The advantage is that the sails don’t cover everything up and make a model look like a bunch of cloth.  When doing furled sails, you typically don’t make the full sail, instead making smaller version.  The sail is put in place, but is bunched up and tied to the appropriate boom or gaff.

Realistic sails try to show the sails rigged and set as they would be while the ship is actually at sea.  Ships adjusted their sails depending on the situation.  In most cases, some sails would be raised while others would be lowered.  Some sails might be set off to one side.  Realistic sails would try to show the ship in some kind of ‘real’ sailing state.

Making sails simply ‘for display’ is what I’m doing.  I’m making all the sails, and installing them all in their raised state.  I’m not going to set any sails off to the sides – everything is just going to be installed straight and even.  You’d probably never see a ship at sea actually set like this, but I think it works well for a model.

When to Make Sails

From what I can tell, the general practice is to make the sails  before rigging and installing the booms and gaffs.  Several of the sails need to be laced onto the booms and gaffs, and that is nearly impossible to do directly on the ship.

The standard process seems to be:

• Build the booms and gaffs.
• Make the sails based on the plans.
• Attach sails to the booms and gaffs as appropriate.
• Install and rig the booms and gaffs.
• Add the additional rigging for each sail.

I’m not confident that all my booms and gaffs are 100% accurately sized, and I suspect that the dimensions of my sails might need to be adjusted to fit my particular ship.  So, I intentionally put off making sails until I had installed all the booms and gaffs.

Once I had everything installed on the ship, I could make templates for the sails that take into account both the plans and the size/shape of my actual build.

Of course, this means that I had a bunch of rigging for the booms and gaffs that would need to be un-done so the booms and gaffs could be removed.  That was fine with me, because I had avoided the use of glue when securing the rigging.  Everything was either tied off (easy to un-tie), or attached with a hook or shackle (easy to remove).

So, my process is:

• Build the booms and gaffs .
• Install and rig the booms and gaffs .
• Make the sails based on the actual layout of my ship.
• De-rig the booms and gaffs, and remove them from the ship.
• Re-install the booms and gaffs, and their rigging.

For me, this approach (while more work) has several advantages:

• Initially, I’m able to focus on getting the booms and gaffs properly installed and rigged, without the sails getting in the way.
• I can start with sail templates based on the plans, and adjust as necessary to fit the exact size/shape of my ship.
• Once sails are ready to install, I can quickly get them rigged without spending any time on the other rigging for the booms and gaffs, since those runs are already done and just need to be re-tied/attached.

Paper Templates

Making the actual sails starts with making paper templates.  Some of the sails were too big to use normal paper, so I picked up a roll of white craft paper.

For each sail, I took a piece of paper and laid it over the plans.  I marked the corners of the sail, then used a ruler to draw lines between the marks, giving me the outline of the sail.  Some sails have curves that I had to hand-draw.

Once the shape was laid out on the paper, I cut the paper to shape.

A paper template for the jib sail.

Next I positioned the paper template on the actual ship in the correct spot.  I took note of anything that didn’t fit just right, and adjusted the template as necessary.  Some sails needed to be made slightly smaller, while some had to be made slightly larger.

To help me visualize the sail, I also marked where the hems on the edges will go, along with any other key elements of the sail.  For the edge hems, I’ll be folding the fabric over and sewing it.  I’ll be shooting for a 1/16″ hem, so I used that size for the markings on the template.

The actual sails on the ship were made from strips of cloth, not one big piece.  To simulate this, I’ll just be sewing lines onto the cloth.  For some of the sails, I went ahead and marked these lines on the template since they need to be oriented correctly according to the plans.

The main and fore sails also have  reef bands , which run horizontally along the lower portion of the sail.  These were marked as well.

Preparing the Sail Cloth

Once I was satisfied with the template, I got out the sail cloth.  Model Shipways includes sail cloth with the kit.  This cloth is a medium weight cotton cloth in an off-white color.  The kit includes enough to make all the sails, assuming you get everything right on the first try.  I knew that wasn’t going to work, so I ordered two more packages of sail cloth from them.  It was relatively inexpensive – about $7 for each package of cloth.

Sails on a ship were rarely bright white.  I’ve seen that many modelers will dye their sail cloth to get a desired shade.  There are many tricks for this, like dipping the material in coffee.  I felt that the off-white color of the Model Shipways cloth was fine, so I didn’t dye my cloth.

If you’re wanting to use other sail cloth, look for something lightweight.  Almost all fabric is going to be too thick and out of scale, so just do the best you can.  I actually used some fabric from a local hobby store for a few ‘test runs’, and learned a few things.  Look for fabric with a tight knit, so the fabric doesn’t start to come apart as you cut it.  Also look for something without too much stretch, as stretchy fabric can distort the shape of the sails as you sew them.

Ideally, you want to wash, dry, and iron the sail cloth before you start.  Most fabric will shrink a little during this process, so you want this out of the way before you start cutting things to size.  Doing this will also release any wrinkles in the fabric.  (I was too excited to get started, and didn’t do this.)

Once you’ve got your fabric ready and your template sized, you’re ready to cut some fabric.

I used a fabric marker to do all the markings on the fabric.  I picked this up at a local hobby store in the sewing section for a couple dollars.  This marker uses special ink that disappears as it evaporates.  This means I can draw all over the fabric, and within a few hours the ink is gone.  I found this to give much better results than using a pencil and trying to erase markings.

The paper template is used to mark up the fabric being used for the sail.

A note on marking fabric…since I’m going to be folding over the edges of the sail to create hems, one side of the sail is going to look better than the other.  Often, you pick a ‘display side’ of the ship, and put ugly stuff (like the worse sail side) so it isn’t visible from the display side.  I found that with the way I was marking, folding, and sewing the cloth, I wanted the markings on the display side.  Making sure I marked the display side ensured that I as I worked I ended up with all the ugly stuff on the back.

First the outline of the sail is marked on the fabric.  Be sure to leave extra space on all sides outside of the sail.

A second outline is made 1/16″  outside of the first outline.  This is the hem that I want to end up with on the finished sail.

A third outline is made 1/2″  outside of the second outline.  This one doesn’t have to be perfect…this is just a guide for cutting the fabric.

You can also mark the reef lines and strips at this point if desired.  I typically didn’t mark the strips, since I was able to position those accurately using my sewing machine.

The fabric is trimmed, leaving excess material around the edges.

Once everything is marked, I cut the fabric along the outer-most outline.  I used a rotary cutter (like a pizza cutter), which gave much better results than scissors.

To make sails you have to do a lot of sewing.  I have no experience sewing.  Doing all this by hand with a needle and thread was not practical, so I bought a cheap little ‘hobby’ sewing machine.  That machine was junk, and broke within the first 20 minutes.  Since I’m hoping to keep this hobby going for a few decades, I decided to go ahead and invest in a real sewing machine.

At my local hobby store, the staff helped me select a good quality machine.  I got it for under $200.  The advantages of a real machine include:

• It won’t jam.
• Variable speeds.
• Selectable stitch length and width (critical for trying to get the stitching remotely close to ‘scale’).
• Many different computer-controlled stitch types, so you can do more than just a simple straight stitch.  This would end up making the reef bands much better.

It took me a few hours to get the hang of using the machine, but my skill level increased quickly.  While I certainly couldn’t sew a shirt or a pair of pants, by the second or third sail I was flying along like a pro.

Since you’ll be sewing, you’ll need thread.  There are three main considerations with the thread.

First is the color.  This is a matter of personal preference.  I’ve seen some models where the stitching on the sails was very high-contrast (dark brown thread on white cloth).  I’ve also seen some where the thread was the same color as the cloth.  I felt like the stitching shouldn’t stand out  too much , and I wanted to rely on the texture of the thread to define the lines rather than the color.  So, I went with a ‘natural’ color thread that ended up being really close to the color of the cloth.

The second consideration is the thread material.  A hobby store will likely have hundreds of different kinds of thread.  There are synthetic materials and natural materials.  I went with a cotton thread.  Why?  No really good reason except that all my rigging lines are cotton and the sail cloth is cotton, so it seemed like a good idea.

The final consideration is quantity.  I have no idea how to predict the amount of thread that will be needed (there may be some ‘trick’ to it that the pros know).  Initially I bought one spool of the thread.  That only made two sails.  When I went back to by more, they were out of that exact thread, so I had to order more online.  That caused a week delay in making sails.  Obviously you wan the thread to be the same on all the sails, so buy a lot of  the same thread up front.  Thread is cheap, and it is better to have some leftover than to run out.

Sewing the Edges

On to sewing.

The first step is to sew the hems on the edges.  I start with the longest edge first, then do the opposite edge, continuing on until all edges are sewn.  The cloth is folded over at the first outline (the line that defines the actual edge of the sail) and pinned into place.  The 1/16″ line that indicates the edge of the hem should be inside the sail.  Since the cloth was cut 1/2″ past that line (on that third outline), there is some extra material here that makes pinning easier.  I’ll cut that off later.

The edges are folded over to create a hem and pinned in place.

The hem is sewn on the edge.

The cloth then goes into the machine and gets stitched up.  I used the machine’s reverse feature to double-stitch the first couple stitches to secure the thread, then just ran a straight stitch down the edge, staying between the edge of the sail and the 1/16″ hem marking.  I used a small stitch length so things weren’t  too out of scale.

My machine lets me set the position of the needle, allowing me to get really close to the edge.

Once the stitch was complete, the extra thread was clipped off.  I used a pair of sharp scissors to carefully cut off the extra cloth along the 1/16″ hem line.

A completed edge hem, about 1/16″ wide.

This was repeated for each edge.

Two edges meet in a corner.

Adding ‘Strips’

To simulate the strips of material, some modelers simply draw lines on the cloth.  I decided to run a stitch for each strip instead.  It is more work, but it goes pretty fast

The ‘strips’ of sail sail cloth are simulated with stitches.  Each sail has a unique strip layout shown on the plans.

The width of the strips is indicated on the plans, as well as the layout of the strips.  It turned out that the width of the strips matched with space between the needle on my sewing machine and the edge of the ‘foot’.  So I didn’t need to mark the strips on the fabric – I just positioned the fabric under the foot and ran the material through the machine.

Reef Bands and Points

The large lower sails (main sail and fore sail) have  reef bands .  These are horizontal bands across the sails.  My sewing machine has a setting that creates a stitch that looks like a ladder (or railroad tracks?).  I adjusted the stitch length and width to get the desired size, then ran this stitch across the sail to create the reef bands.

I ran this right  over the strip lines.  This is easier than doing the reef bands first and trying to start/stop the strip lines at the bands, and you can’t really tell the difference.

Reef bands were sewn in using a different stitch pattern on my machine.

At each point where a strip line crosses the reef band, there is a short rope that goes through the sail.  These ropes were used to secure the sail when it was lowered and bundled up.  I cut a bunch of 1″ long pieces of 0.008″ tan rigging line and punched them through at the appropriate spots.  I used a small bit of fabric glue on each side to keep these ropes flat against the sail instead of sticking out.

Corner Attachment Points

The sails typically have rigging lines attached to the corners of the sails.  This means you need something in each corner to attach a rigging line to.  From my research, it looks like most sails had a rope that ran around the outside edge of the sail, and that rope would form an eye at the sail corners to create the attachment points.

I decided not to add this rope.  I wasn’t confident I could make it look good, and I thought the tan line would stand out too much.

So, I simply sewed brass rings (made from wire) into each corner.  This was done manually with a needle and thread.

Anchor points in the corners were made from brass wire and sewn in.

Finishing Up

Once everything is sewn and I’m happy with the results, there are a few final steps.

I do a final pass to trim anything that looks bad (edges of hems, loose threads, etc.).

After all my disappearing fabric markings have evaporated and disappeared, I iron the sail to flatten it out and remove any remaining wrinkles.

Finally, I use some fabric glue along any exposed fabric edges (like the hems) to keep them from fraying.  I also use a little fabric glue on the ends of stitches to ensure they don’t come loose.

Then the sail is ready to install!

A few completed sails on the ship.

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I have rearranged the information into separate web pages.  The one page was getting too large was slow to load and difficult then to navigate.  Hopefully by dividing the information into separate areas navigation will be easier.

There are many resources which offer all sorts of assistance to the beginner model sail maker.  I have used as many as I could find including the following and would like to share some of my findings.  I'm sure some will find fault with my ideas and I am only too happy to receive feedback.  E-mail me on [email protected]

Lester Gilbert's one metre site

Larry Robinson's book on 'How To' make sails advertised in Radio Yacht Supplies Australia ; Radio Sailing Shop

While not specifically for models this program the ' SailCut CAD ' program allows plotting of panels etc for sails.  Its discussions and examples are very useful.  This is a free download but does require some computer knowledge to set up

An excellent article by Paul Bogataj on " How do sails work " - essential reading!

In all of this literature there appears to be two common themes

1. To achieve a truly efficient sail it must be constructed with separate panels with built in shape or curvature.

2. Some means has to be used to hold the edges of the panels to the correct shape while joining them.

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• Masting, rigging and sails

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Your best sail cloth and technique

By steven sturgis March 11, 2015 in Masting, rigging and sails

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Steven sturgis.

Hi every one. I have been looking for the best sail cloth for my Flying Fish build. I would like to get a lot of suggestions that I can look at. Please include where the cloth can be bought.  Do you change the color with dyes? do you age the cloth some how? How do you add detail to the sails? All sail makers are welcome to post their designs I know a lot of you don't put on sail because it covers the rigging so anyone that does would be a great asset to the topic. Looking forward to seeing your tricks and designs. 

sail techniques     http://modelshipworl...-and-technique/

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Click on the Nautical Research Guild Home Page straight up to the top of the page, then, click on Ship Modeling Resources, then, click on Ship Modeling Database of Articles, Then click Rigging and Sails, then click the pdf "Making and forming sails for your model."

I could have pasted the direct link, but thought it better for you to see everything that was available here on MSW.

You can go to a Joanne's or any yard goods store and buy Egyptian cotton, almost silk like.  Coffee and/or tea make good stains, very controllable.

I'm certain there will be other suggestions to follow....

• tasmanian and LFrankCPA

Thank you twintrow. I did look at that but some one needs to go back and up date the links. About 80% don't work any more. I was going for full rigged full sails. Can you do that in paper? 1/8 scale

Im sure this is old hat to the expert modelers but passing on that knowledge is needed by the next generation of builders

• JerseyCity Frankie

I make sails for models in scale 1:75 with seams of the cloths sewing marked with single thread ( courtesy of Admiral ). For models in scale 1:100 I use computer printing of cloths lines and reef bands on thermal transferring paper for ironing on to sails fabric . Sails leech, head and foot ropes are fixed in its place with use of textile adhesive .

Material for sails I prefer is old bed linen many, many times washed .

Work step by step

1.Make paper stencil for each sail and check it’s dimensions on your model.

2.With soft pencil transfer all lines in to fabric – add stripe 5-7 mm around

sail edges.

3.Make all necessary lines on fabric using sewing machine and thin thread with light brown or beige color.

For sails with thermal transferring of line any sewing is not necessary.

Cut of sail shape.

4. Fold the edges stripe to reverse side of sail and apply textile adhesive

5. Put sail on flat surface protected against glue adhesion ( wax paper )

and fix it with pins and nails for forming clews.

Using textile adhesive attach thread around sail and form clews and cringles as necessary.

After adhesive excess removal from sail surface and final ironing your sail is ready.

Foto 1-10 Sail making Step by Step

Foto 11 HMS Speedy   - printed sails

Foto 12 HMS Warrior - printed sails

Foto 13 Patern for printing sails for S/S Savannah

• Canute , thibaultron , Krelis and 9 others

I wouldn't use paper.  If you don't want to use cloth, use silkspan from a hobby shop that deals with the RC guys/gals.  It comes in various weights and you'd probably need to acquire small amounts of several sizes to find which one works best for you.

• Elia and Canute

Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build:                                                                                              Past Builds:   La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans  - ON HOLD            Tri ton Cross-Section    

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Good stuff.

I have seen some members using silkspan and modelspan. Any thought on this material. I'm not familiar with  thermal transferring paper. can you elaborate. How do you use  textile adhesive with out making a mess? Is it diluted in any way?

The adhesive is not diluted ,   unwanted stains of adhesive on sails can be easily removed by scraping .

Thanks for outlining the step by step process you use.  In my opinion, the thermal transfer is brilliant.  I have been hesitating to start my sails for quite a while because I don't want to sew the seam lines (I think they would look too bulky) and I don't trust myself to be able to draw them evenly using pencil.  You have certainly given me something to think about!  I imagine transfer will be more durable than pencil - another plus for the technique.

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Future build - MS Flying Fish

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Guest Tim I.

Good stuff. I have seen some members using silkspan and modelspan. Any thought on this material. I'm not familiar with thermal transferring paper. can you elaborate. How do you use  textile adhesive with out making a mess? Is it diluted in any way?

Silk span is easy to work with. PVA glue works well and any glue that moves outside what you are trying to glue will dry clear. Also Rubber Cement works well, if applied sparingly. Here are some sails I have done using silk span. Nothing to write home about, but my first attempts at sail making.

I use strips of silk span to simulate seams and sail detail and work them up in layers. You can also add bolt ropes and reef points to add more detail. I did not go into a lot of detail with these, rather kept them simple to work on my technique. Also if you use PVA a good idea is to press the sails between some parchment paper and heavy books while drying to prevent buckling or bubbling of the thin strips of silk span.

I hope this helps.

I like the look of the silkspan and the layering of the cloth details. What weight silkspan do you use?

Not quite sure on the weight. I just bought what my local hobby store has. This Silk Span in my pictures is the "SGM White".

Hope this helps,

A question about silkspan.  Can it achieve the draped and folded look of clewed up sails? Or will it be too stiff?  I want to show my ship in the process of reducing to battle sail.

Laissez le bon temps rouler !  

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build :  Amerigo Vespucci

Just saw this while looking for a source for Sig Silkspan, source of quote is the Stuntbarn an RC Forum:

"Title: Silk Span Covering

Post by: ericrule on October 22, 2012, 12:10:29 PM I just got off the telephone with Sig Mfg where they informed me that they will no longer have silk span available. At the present time they have only OO (Light) in stock and when that is gone they will no longer be able to obtain it.

According to the person I spoke to the company that supplied the silk span is out of business and they can not find any other supplier. Mike is searching for a new source but it does not look like he is having any luck."

So not sure if real or not....?  But if true silkspan may not be around loong??

Just saw this while looking for a source for Sig Silkspan, source of quote is the Stuntbarn an RC Forum:   "Title: Silk Span Covering Post by: ericrule on October 22, 2012, 12:10:29 PM I just got off the telephone with Sig Mfg where they informed me that they will no longer have silk span available. At the present time they have only OO (Light) in stock and when that is gone they will no longer be able to obtain it. According to the person I spoke to the company that supplied the silk span is out of business and they can not find any other supplier. Mike is searching for a new source but it does not look like he is having any luck."   So not sure if real or not....?  But if true silkspan may not be around loong?? Tom

That is what my local hobby store told me as well. That is why I bought out everything they had, for stock.

Oh noooooooooooooooooooooooooo !!!!! Say it ain't so.

Thank you all this is good stuff. I hope I can still get silk span I would like to try it out.

Landlubber Mike

Is there a difference between silk span and model span?  I have a roll of model span, but haven't tried using it yet.

Current Wooden builds:   Amati/Victory Pegasus   MS Charles W. Morgan    Euromodel La Renommèe   

Plastic builds:     SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48    Five Star Yaeyama 1/700    Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama    Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700   Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32    Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72    IJN Notoro 1/700    Akitsu Maru 1/700

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On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab  Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

I believe its just a different brand butt lets let the experts handle that question.

For what it's worth I got a big roll of model span last year from CornwallModelBoats.

Steven, if you're interested in furled sails, I shared my techniques that I used on my Badger in a separate thread:

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3944-landlubber-mikes-technique-for-furled-sails/

• 2 months later...

jablackwell

Those looking for SilkSpan can still find it at the Guillow model airplane homepage. It can be found under the spare parts section. Each model plane has a spare parts assortment, and the wing covering is an option for most. 

U.S. Brig Syren - 1803 - Model Shipways - First PoB Build

Sopwith Camel F.1 - 1916 - Model Airways - Not a Ship! , Completed

Kate Cory - 1856 - Model Shipways - Second Build, completed

Sultana - 1767 - Model Shipways - First shipbuild, completed

There's more on using SilkSpan for sails  in a new booklet by SeaWatchBooks, or as a new chapter in a new edition of Swan IV.

• EricWilliamMarshall

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series    http://trafalgar.tv

• 1 month later...

Jolley Roger

For what it's worth I got a big roll of model span last year from CornwallModelBoats.   Steven, if you're interested in furled sails, I shared my techniques that I used on my Badger in a separate thread:   http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3944-landlubber-mikes-technique-for-furled-sails/

Can you recall under what product name CMB was selling the model span?

I've been unable to find it on their site.

Samuel Pepys notes in his diary on 19 July 1667: "the Dutch fleets being in so many places, that Sir W. Batten at table cried,  By God , says he, I think the Devil shits Dutchmen."

I can't find it on the website either.  I'm fairly certain it was under building materials or something and listed as Modelspan.  I looked at the packaging, and it had the Mantua name/emblem on it, but I don't see it under the Mantua fittings.  Maybe email them and ask?

Thanks Mike, i'll send them a mail.

 I am a passionate advocate of including sails on models so I am pleased you are making the decision to include them on your model.

I had a look at your Victory build log, those sails looks fantastic!

I think I will follow your method when I get to that part on my build.

Richard Griffith

Bluejacket Shipcrafters ran out of silkspan recently but they substituted model span which to me is the same material.  I used it to added furled sails to Le Superbe.  I am a very happy customer of BJ, not an employee.  

• Canute , Landlubber Mike and MrBlueJacket

I'm just using old worn bed sheets for my 1/100 scale HMS Victory. Check out my build log which is really not much at all about building the kit and mostly focussing on how I am making the sails. I bet if you searched through all my comments on MSW you would find 1/2 of all my posts are having to do with sails or rigging. I am a passionate advocate of including sails on models so I am pleased you are making the decision to include them on your model. I don't think the thickness of the material is that big a deal as long as the texture of the weave is fine enough not to draw attention to itself. Many very convincing ship model sails have actually been carved out of wood.  My build log goes into a lot of detail on these points but I will just set them out here again: Don't use pure white sails, this will look too stark and in fact actual sails were cream colored or very light grey.(staining with coffee is super easy and very effective) Don't sew the boltropes on, no matter how fine a thread you use, it will look out of scale. Just glue them on. Do include sail construction details like reef bands and reinforcing patches, these give a good texture and are realistic. Look at all the photos you can find of reproduction ships that resemble your ship and try to duplicate that look.

JCFrankie, thanks so much for your detailed log on your sail techniques.  I went with furled sails on my Badger, but was planning on doing a mixture of furled and unfurled on my Pegasus and future builds.  Your results are fantastic, and I will certainly bookmark your log for when I get to that point!  I experimented with tissue and a few other materials as well, but ended up with cloth as well.  

Once again, a big thank you!

• 3 years later...

Hi I am making sails for a large pond yacht which will of course become very wet ,  if I chose a material that becomes too wet and heavy that will cause problems, 

what is the best material to use

for a large expanse of sail. 

My pond yacht is 5ft long not inc

bow sprit. 

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Model Yachting: A Comprehensive Guide to the Hobby

• By - Kyle Hilson
• Posted on November 13, 2023 November 14, 2023
• Posted in RC Boats

Model yachting is a fascinating hobby or sport that involves building miniature versions of sailing yachts that can be sailed on water. It is a popular pastime enjoyed by people of all ages, and it is a great way to improve one’s patience, attention to detail and enjoyment of nature. Model yachting has a long and rich history, having begun as a hobby for wealthy yacht owners who wanted to recreate their vessels in miniature form. Over time, it has evolved into an organized sport, with national and international competitions held regularly. The boats used in model yachting come in different types such as radio-controlled, free-sailing, and pond yachts each having unique characteristics that make them ideal for different situations. With its history, different types of boats are used, and competitions it has to offer, model yachting is truly a fascinating and engaging hobby for all enthusiasts. In this article, we will dive into the different aspects of model yachting to give you a better understanding of what this sport is all about.

The History of Model Yachting

Model yachting has a long and rich history that dates back to the 1840s when wealthy yacht owners created miniature versions of their boats to be sailed on ponds and lakes. Since then, model yachting has come a long way, with its own subcultures, clubs, and competitions. Here are some key events and figures in the history of model yachting :

• In 1876, model yachting was introduced to the United States through the New York Yacht Club .
• The National Model Sailing Association (NMSA) was established in 1901 and became the governing body for model yachting in the US.
• The first world championships in model yachting were held in England in 1920.

Over the years, model yachting continued to evolve, with new materials and technologies allowing for even more intricate and realistic models. Today, there are many different types of model yachts available, ranging from simple wooden boats to high-tech carbon fiber creations. If you’re interested in learning more about the history of model yachting , there are many resources available, including websites, books, and magazines. Some popular websites for model yachting enthusiasts include Model Yachting Magazine and the American Model Yachting Association .

What is the history of racing yachts?

Racing yachts have been around for centuries but the modern era of yacht racing began in the mid-19th century with the creation of regattas and yacht clubs. The America’s Cup, first held in 1851, is one of the oldest and most prestigious yacht races in the world. In the 20th century, advances in technology led to the development of faster and more efficient racing yachts. Today, yacht racing is a popular sport, with many competitions held around the world.

For more information about yacht racing, you can visit the websites of the International Sailing Federation (ISAF), World Sailing, and the Royal Yacht Association (RYA). Yacht racing enthusiasts can find a wide variety of products, from sailing gear to yacht equipment, on websites such as West Marine and Sailrite.

How to Get Started in Model Yachting

If you’re interested in trying model yachting for the first time, here are some steps you can take to get started:

• Research different types of model yachts: There are many different types of model yachts available, each with its own unique features and characteristics. Research different types of boats and their advantages and disadvantages to decide which one is right for you.
• Join a local club: Joining a local model yachting club is a great way to connect with other enthusiasts, learn about the sport and practice your skills.
• Find a body of water: You’ll need a pond, lake, or small bay to sail your model yacht. Ensure it’s a safe location and has good access.
• Get the right equipment: You’ll need a model yacht kit, radio control equipment, batteries and more. Take the time to get good equipment to prevent scale effect over time.
• Practice, Practice, Practice: Learning to sail a model yacht takes time and patience. Keep practicing to improve your skills.

Moreover, model yachting can also have a creative, DIY aspect too. Some people enjoy building every part of their boats from scratch, while others enjoy customizing commercially available models with their own unique touches. A table displaying the different types and features of available model yachts can be a good way to showcase this information.

How do I start working on a yacht?

To start working on a yacht, you can follow the below steps:

• Get necessary training and certifications, such as STCW Basic Safety Training, ENG1 medical certificate, and a sailing license.
• Network and connect with people in the industry, attend job fairs and conferences.
• Consider joining a crew agency, such as Crew4Yachts, YPI Crew, or DieselCrew.
• Search for job postings on yacht-specific job websites, such as Yachting Pages or Yotspot.

It’s essential to have relevant experience in the yachting industry and a willingness to work hard. With persistence and dedication, you can begin your career on a yacht.

Types of Model Yachting Boats

Model yachts come in different shapes and sizes, making them suitable for different levels of experience, budgets, and preferences. Here are some popular types of model yachting boats :

• Radios Control, or RC boats: Ideal for those who prefer precision, remote control or competitive sailing, these boats can be maneuvered with precision steering and speed control through specialized remote control units or employing the usage of mobile applications.
• Free Sailing Boats: Although this type of model yacht has limited control over the yacht’s trajectory, these boats are perfect for casual sailing and less organized competitions. They typically use a built-in sail and do not rely on radio control.
• Pond Yachts: Pond yacht’s roots date back to the sailboat models collectors and enthusiasts of the 19th century. These newly available from companies like vintage model company’s pond yachts come equipped with high-end details, advanced manufacturing techniques, and optional upgrades, making them both stunning and practical.

Regardless of the type of model yacht you choose, investing in a good quality boat that suits your skill level and sailing preference is key. There are several online resources and stores you can use, such as model yacht online shops, specialized forums and websites, like amya.org .

Model yachting competitions have become increasingly popular and organized over the years, attracting enthusiasts from around the world who compete for titles and medals. Here are some of the different types of model yachting competitions:

• Club Events: These are typically small, casual events held by local clubs, where participants can practice their sailing skills and get to know other enthusiasts in their area.
• Regional Competitions: Held throughout the year, regional competitions gather competitors from clubs within a specific region or state. These events often spark long-lasting friendships and rivalries, making them a great opportunity to see how well you stand next to others outside of your demographic.
• National and International Events: These are the biggest and most prestigious model yachting events, drawing competitors from all over the world. They typically take place over multiple days and involve a variety of competitions and social events.

To compete in these events, it is important to follow the specific rules and guidelines of each competition. Registration is required and can come at a steep price tag. There are also specialized websites such as modelyachting.org and various model yachting magazines like Model Yachting Magazine and Yachts & Yachting offering coverage of competitions and general information about the sport.

What is competitive yachting?

Competitive yachting, also known as yacht racing, involves sailing boats of different classes in a race against each other to determine the fastest vessel and crew. Yacht racing can take place in open seas, lakes or rivers and can range from a casual contest to a highly competitive international event.

Types of yacht racing categories may include:

• Inshore racing
• Offshore racing
• Match racing
• Cruising racing

There are several international organizations that govern yacht racing, including World Sailing, International Maxi Association and Offshore Racing Congress.

For those interested in getting involved in competitive yachting, there are several resources available, including:

• Yacht racing clubs
• Online forums and communities
• Training courses and schools

Additionally, there are several websites that provide information on upcoming yacht races, yacht racing news and results, and resources for yacht owners and crew members, including Sail World, Yachting World, and Sailing Anarchy.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Model Yachting

Model yachting is a fun and rewarding hobby, but it does come with its own sets of advantages and disadvantages.

• Improves Patience: Building and sailing a model yacht involves a lot of patience and attention to detail, helping you become more focused and disciplined.
• Embraces Nature: Model yachting takes place on water, providing a great opportunity to spend time outdoors and enjoy the beauty of nature.
• Friendly Competition: Competitions offer a chance to meet other enthusiasts and participate in friendly competitions that can help improve your skills.
• Provides a Sense of Accomplishment: Successfully building and sailing a model yacht can provide a great sense of achievement and satisfaction.
• Time-Consuming: The construction of a model yacht can take up a significant amount of time, depending on the size of the yacht and level of detail put into it.
• Equipment Challenges: Model yachting equipment can be expensive and needs to be well-maintained in order to work correctly, that requires long-term financial and time commitments.
• Weather Restrictions: Inclement weather can affect sailing conditions, limiting the amount of time you can spend on the water.
• Seasonal Hobby: Model yachting is a seasonal hobby for most people, as cold temperatures and frozen bodies of water can make it impossible to sail during the winter months.

In the end, the choice of whether or not to pursue model yachting depends largely on personal interests and the amount of time and money one is willing to commit. Nonetheless, it’s an excellent and satisfying sport/hobby that is well worth considering for those who love challenges and being close to nature.

What is the benefit of yachting?

There are numerous benefits of yachting, including:

• Relaxation: Yachting provides an escape from the stresses of everyday life and can be a peaceful way to unwind and recharge.
• Adventure: Exploring new destinations and discovering hidden coves and beaches can be an exciting and adventurous experience.
• Socialization: Yachting can be a great way to connect with others who share your passion for the water and boating.
• Health and Wellness: Yachting offers opportunities for exercise such as swimming, snorkeling and paddleboarding, which can promote physical and mental wellbeing.
• Nature Appreciation: Yachting allows for a unique perspective to appreciate the beauty of nature such as marine life and stunning sunsets.

If you are interested in taking up yachting, there are many websites and products available that can help you get started. Some popular resources include:

• Boatsetter: A platform for renting or chartering a yacht with a network of over 14,000 yachts worldwide.
• YachtWorld: A global resource for buying and selling yachts with over 100,000 listings.
• Cruising World: A magazine focused on yachting and cruising lifestyle that provides information on destinations, boats, gear and more.

In conclusion, model yachting is an exciting sport/hobby that combines your interest in recreation, art, and the outdoors. With a rich history and a variety of boats and competitions on offer; building and sailing a model yacht can be a great way for people of all ages to enjoy time in the great outdoors, learning new skills and meeting like-minded individuals. While it does require time, patience, and passion, the end result is a beautiful and functional model yacht that gives complete satisfaction and builds self-confidence.

Whether you’re looking for a peaceful and relaxing hobby or one that challenges your competitive spirit, model yachting covers it all. With a little bit of research, joining local clubs or attending competitions could be your first step towards the world of model navigation. Investing in high-quality equipment, building a model yacht from scratch, and sailing it on water can provide a lifetime of enjoyment, personal satisfaction, and memories that would last a lifetime. So why wait? Start sailing your way to a fun and fulfilling hobby today!

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Eyelets - small - 100/pack

Product code: 078

Eyelets - small - 100/pack. Sail eyelets, nickel plated brass, 1.5 mm ID, 2.0 mm OD, 3.5 mm flange OD, 3.3 mm overall length, 3.0 mm under flange, 100/pack.

Clench using eyelet punch, ref. 090 . Look in the tools section.

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Washers - small - 100/pack

Product code: 079

Washers - small- 100/pack, nickel plated brass, 2.2 mm ID, 4.8 mm OD. Use with sail eyelet ref. 078-030 . Use one per eyelet. 100/pack

Eyelets - medium - 100/pack

Product code: 080

Eyelets - medium - 100/pack. Sail eyelets, nickel plated brass, 3.2 mm ID, 3.8 mm OD, 5.5 mm flange OD, 3.3 mm long, 100/pack.

Clench using eyelet punch, ref. 091 . Look under tools.

Washers - medium - 100/pack

Product code: 081

Tamping tool - for medium washers

Product code: 081-TOOL

Punch - for small eyelets.

Product code: 090

Punch - for small sail eyelets, ref. 078-030.

Use with eyelets, ref. 078-030 , and washers, ref. 079 .

Punch - for medium eyelets

Product code: 091

Making Model Yacht Sails - Larry Robinson's method of building in shape

Product code: BK-38

Tapered battens - 65 - 10 sets/pack

Product code: BSET-65

Tapered battens - IOM, thin - 10 sets/pack

Product code: BSET-THIN-IOM

Deck patch material - 0.1 m^2

Product code: DP-MAT-0.1

140 g/metre², black self adhesive Dacron, for cutting your own marks, 315 x 315 mm, 0.1 m2.

Deck patch material - 0.5 m^2

Product code: DP-MAT-0.5

140 g/metre2, self adhesive Dacron, also suitable for sail reinforcement, 1370 x 375 mm, 0.5m2.

OTHER SIZES to suit your cutter are possible - contact the SAILSetc office for prices.

Set of deck patches for SAILSetc boat

Product code: DP-SET-65

Mylar film - 35 micron - 320 mm x 10 metre roll

Product code: FILM-035

Mylar film - 35 micron - 320 mm x 10 metre roll, translucent. 52 grams per square metre. Suitable for sails on 65 Class, Footy and similar. Suggested use: No 1 suit and No 2 headsails. Use 50 micron for No 2 mainsails and lower sails.

Mylar film - 50 micron - 500 mm x 10 metre roll

Product code: FILM-050

Mylar film - 50 micron - 500 mm x 10 metre roll, translucent. 72 grams per square metre. Suitable for No 1 sails on IOM, M, 10R and similar.

Mylar film - 75 micron - 625 mm x 10 metre roll

Product code: FILM-075

Mylar film - 75 micron - 625 mm x 10 metre roll, translucent. 108 grams per square metre. Suitable for No 2 and lower sails on IOM, M, 10R and similar.

Headboards - M, 6M & 10R class - 10/pack

Product code: HB-10

Hook and loop - self adhesive twin Velcro - 25 mm

Product code: HL-25

Discs - 20 mm Ø self adhesive discs x 50

Product code: S-DISC

Discs - 20 mm Ø, sets of 50 self adhesive white Dacron discs.

Sail reinforcement/repair material, for repairs and reinforcement of sails especially over the end of battens, at the luff where eyelets will be added, and at the tack and head of foresails/mainsails over the ends of the luff tape.

Sail reinforcement - self adhesive discs & strips

Product code: S-REIN

Self adhesive discs & strips - sail reinforcement/repair material in a handy sheet. For repairs and reinforcement of sails - and also useful to keep in your tool box for use on hull and rigging.

Deck patch material tape - 25 mm wide. Self adhesive.

Product code: TDP-25

Choose from dark blue, blue, white, yellow, pink, orange, red.

Mylar tape - 50 metre rolls - various widths

Product code: TM

Mylar tape - 50 metre rolls - various widths. Ultra-thin, transparent, self adhesive, 50 micron, for sail edge and seam reinforcement. 50 metre roll.

Use 2 and 4 mm wide for leech tapes of sails for very small, medium and large boats. Use 10 and 12 mm wide for luff tapes for small and medium boats. Use 12 and 20 mm wide for adding reinforcement to panel seams.

Luff tape - 18 mm wide

Product code: TP-18

Luff tape - 18 mm wide. Icarex Polyester headsail luff tape, 18 mm wide. Choice of lengths and colours.

Apply using double sided tape ref. TS-06 .

Luff tape - 18, 30 or 40 mm - white

Product code: TP-WHITE

Luff tape - 18, 30 or 40 mm. Polyester headsail luff tape, 18, 30 or 40 mm wide. White only. For coloured tapes please see ref. TP-20 .

The wider tapes are useful for forming the luff of pocket luff mainsails.

Apply using doubled sided tape ref. TS-06 .

Double sided tape - 6 mm x 100 metre roll

Product code: TS-06

Double sided tape - 6 mm x 100 metre roll. Double sided self adhesive tape for sail seams and luff tapes. Per 100 metre/roll.

This super thin double sided tape is only 50 microns thick including both thicknesses of adhesive. This makes it the best product for use with the thicknesses of sail film that are used on rc yachts. Double sided tapes available from sail maker suppliers and from other sources are typically twice or more times thicker.

Double sided tape - 10 mm x 100 metre roll

Product code: TS-10

Double sided tape - 10 mm x 100 metre roll. Double sided self adhesive tape for sail seams and luff tapes.

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Constructing a Sail Control Arm

Article by TMY Editorial Staff. Photos by John Stoudt.

Sail arm layout.

This is an efficient, strong sail control arm for R/C sailboats. It is an assembly of an aluminum arm and a servo horn that comes with the servo you intend to use as your sail control servo. There are many usable servos available today. Make sure the one you select to use has sufficient torque for the size of the boat.

• Band saw (metal cutting)
• Electric drill: hand drill or drill press
• 1-in band sander or metal cutting file
• Drill bits: 5/64-in, 3/32-in, and 3/8-in
• Countersink
• Center punch
• Circle template
• Sanding board, foam sanding block, and Scotch Brite sanding pad
• 1/8-in aluminum bar stock long enough for your sail arm. The width depends on the width of your sail control arm.
• Double-sided servo horn (comes with the servo. See Photo 1)
• The shaft diameter and the spline count are different on every manufacturer’s servos so make sure you choose the correct servo horn.
• Two 2-56 ½-in stainless steel flat head machine screws
• Two 2-56 stainless steel nuts

You must first calculate the length of your sail arm. See John Henderson’s article Setting Up Swing-Arm Sail Controls that can be found at: https://usvmyg.org/setting-up-swing-arm-sail-controls/ .

Making the sail control arm

• Cut a piece of aluminum about one inch longer than the lengths you have calculated using John’s article.
• Lay out the arm similar to the one in the illustration using the arm lengths you calculated and the servo screw head diameter.
• Begin the layout by drawing the centerline.
• Mark the location of the pivot point with a center punch (servo shaft center). This will be somewhere near the center of the arm on the centerline.
• Measure out in each direction for the mainsail arm side and the jib arm side.
• Mark each of those locations with a center punch.
• Using a circle template, draw a 3/8-in diameter circle at each end with the center point as the center of the circle.
• Measure the diameter of the head of the servo screw that holds the horn unto the servo. (If the screw head diameter is ¼ in, then the hole should be ⅜ in to allow 1/16 in of clearance around the screw head.)
• Using a circle template, draw a circle ½ in larger than the hole necessary for the servo screw to clear the hole. (If the servo screw hole is ⅜ in, then draw the circle ⅞ inch in diameter.)
• Draw tangents (four) with a straight edge from the outside edges of the small circles to the outside edges of the large inner circle.
• You now have your sail control arm ready to cut out.
• Carefully cut it out on a band saw just outside of the perimeter lines.
• Using a 1-in band sander or file, sand the edges straight.
• Sand the long edges on a sanding board to get them smooth and straight.
• Smooth the edges and round the corners with a foam sanding block.
• Drill a 5/32-in hole in each end of the arm.
• Put a very slight chamfer on these holes using a small countersink or drill bit. This helps to reduce fraying of the sheet lines.
• Drill the servo screw hole that you determined in Step 8 in the pivot location. Debur the edges of the hole with a larger drill bit.
• Now clamp the servo horn in place over the large hole so the servo horn aligns with the centerline of the sail control arm. Make sure that the two holes are concentric. (See Photo 2).
• Drill a 3/32-inch hole at each end hole of the servo horn through the aluminum arm.
• Debur these holes.
• Countersink the bottom side of each drilled hole on the servo horn to receive the head of the 2-56 machine screw.
• Clean up the faces of the arm using the Scotch Brite pad.
• Bolt the servo horn to the aluminum arm by passing the 2-56 x ½-inch machine screws up from the bottom and attaching the nuts from the top. If there is too much screw sticking up, you can cut off the excess and dress the ends.

Photo 1: Assorted servo horns.

Photo 2: Servo horn and sail arm holes aligned prior to drilling.

Photo 3: The finished sail control arm from below.

Servo Horns

The servo horns come in various sizes and are shown in Photo 1. Note that the large servo horn has protrusions that stick up and will need to be removed. Do this by filing or sanding. We have found that a sanding board works the best. This is necessary for the aluminum arm to sit flat on the servo horn.

1/16-in versus 1/8-in Aluminum

Aluminum sail arms have been made with 1/16-in and 1/8-inch stock. The 1/16-in arms flex during normal use. A 1/8-in aluminum arm will be twice as heavy but will not flex. The weight differential is insignificant; the thicker aluminum is a better option and resists flexing even with larger servos.

Reducing Wear on the Sheets

If you would like a sail control arm with less friction on the sheets, make the holes in the end of the aluminum arm 1/8-inch. Then follow the process explained in Steven LaBrenz’s article, “ Addressing Sail Arm Friction “, in this issue. The porcelain paint applied to the ends of the sail arm significantly reduces the wear on the sheets.