sailboat toe rail covers

Winter Covers

• Canvas Remake
• Testimonials

Our Original Boom-Tent Sailboat Winter Cover

As one of the premiere designers of the Boom Tent Sailboat Winter Cover we have spent a great deal of time upgrading and perfecting our present-day product. We protect your sailboat, its precious wood toe rail, and the Awlgrip / Painted Hull, or teak decks from the elements be it tropical UV damage to harsh snow & ice accumulation and wind. Protect your investment with a custom made winter cover.

About our Sailboat Winter Covers

In brief, Leon Canvas Inc is designed for mast-up winter storage. It can either cover your sailboat down from the boom to inside the toe rail OR over the toe rail by 6-8 inches. Based on your geographic location and how you winter your boat (in water or on land) we have the perfect solution for you.

We use nothing but the best and toughest materials. We use "Top Gun" fabric, a marine-grade polyester woven fabric with a rubberized finish. This fabric is entirely water resistant but our cover design is NOT air-tight so the shrink-wrap-moldy-swamp-effect come spring-time is not an issue.

For ease of installation, this cover comes in 3 sections. The forward section gets securely tied to the bow and terminates at the mast creating the perfect pitch for liquids to sheer right off. The "Mid-Section" has a mast collar not unlike a main sail cover. This middle section extends to and terminates somewhere mid-boom where the zippers align with your life line gates for easy access port and starboard. Additionally, in the third and aft section, we provide a stern access zipper from topping lift to transom for easy aft entry. Whether you just cover your boat to inside the toe rail or over, we have collared cutouts for all your boat's shrouds, and stays. Every cover is a custom-made cover and we will work with you to accommodate your boat's variances be it davits, radar poles or ladders etc.

The Seamless Sailor

Self-reliant sewing for sailors.

Cap It – Teak Cap Rail Covers

After you spend a lot of time or a lot of money on teak cap rail brightwork — sanding, varnishing wood — you want to show them off as they shine in the sun.  Folks come by the dock admiring your shiny cap rails and “oh and ah”.  But wait.  You’ve just invested your time or money to get them that bright and shiny.  How long do you want them to stay that way?  A good while, right?  Sun with its UV threat will have its way with your teak.  You might consider canvas covers, at least while the boat is not in use at the dock.  We saw these cap rail covers in a Charleston marina.  Pretty nice, huh?

Notice that Magnolia doesn’t have these covers – yet.

A few references that might be of help:

— In a Sailrite forum question Matt Grant suggests when making  cap rail covers to use a top piece and two side pieces for fitting around the curves of the boat.

— Sailboat Owners forum has some detail on how one sailor made toe rail covers (a bit more like a handrail cover).

“We cut fabric strips wide enough plus 1 and 1/2″ to cover the toe rail. Plus 1″ will also work but seems more difficult to manage as will be described later. For long toe rails, join strips together with a 1/2″ seam and top sew. On each end, fold 1/2″ and then a length about 1/2 of the finished cover, and stitch. Mark a line 3/4′ inch from each edge. Lay webbing inside the line (3/4″ of fabric exposed) and stitch the center side webbing, 1/8″ from the edge. Fold the exposed 3/4″ of the fabric under the webbing and stitch 1/8″ from the outside edge. Folding under 1/2” is doable but more difficult. Seam tape could be used. However, seam tape seems to gum-up the needle, so to avoid long runs with seam tape, press the folded-under fabric with a roller and staple with a pliers-like stapler. Be sure to remove the staples. For the ends of the toe rail cover, fold each end inside out, stitch between the webbing 45 degrees across the end. Cover can be secured via snaps, line, Velcro or a combination. We used a Yosemite bowlines on line, no snaps which seems to hold OK except in high wind. We’re near the boat and adjust after high wind. Here is a brief slide show. http://s742.photobucket.com/albums/x…view=slideshow ”

– Bristol Rose nbog describing their cap rail cover project – http://bristolrose.blogspot.com/2007/12/handrail-covers.html

— Brightwork The Art of Finishing Wood by Rebecca Wittman a book about boat wood work mentions the important of canvas covers for maintaining the finished wood work.

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CREST ALUMINUM PRODUCTS CO, INC

Marine toe rail & t-track.

#2807-24   Slotted Toe Rail

Slotted Toe Rail Track is the ideal toe rail configuration with continuous slots along its entire length. This removes unnecessary weight and provides multiple locations for block attachments. This is the exact replacement (Old Merriman® #7440) for many sailboats built during the 70's and 80's and perfect for new production and custom one-offs. Available in Black Hard Coat and 30 minute Velo Anodized finishes to provide a long- lasting finish.

• Fasteners: 5/16" Flat Head
• Hole Spacing: 4" O.C.
• Alloy: 6061-T6
• Slots: 1.25" Long x .625" High
• Weight:  .959 lbs/ft 
• Length:  24'-0"
• Finish: Clear Velo and Black Hard Coat Anodize

#2817   1 1/4" T Rail track

1¼ T Rail Track was developed by Crest to provide an adjustable location for outboard genoa and spinnaker blocks and to match up with the 2807 Toe Rail . It offers consistent and finished appearance to the shear line. Precise Track adjustment holes are spaced every 4". Available in Black Hard Coat and 30 Minute Velo Clear Anodized to provide a long- lasting durable finish.

• Fasteners:  1/4" Flat Head
• Length:  19'-10"
• Weight:  .974 lbs/ft 

#2815    1" Genoa / T Track

1” Aluminum T Track has a curved base to accomodate mounting on spars and to provide a positive area for sealant. Genoa car adjustment holes are spaced every 4" for maximum control. Available in 30 Minute Clear Velo Anodize and Black Hard Coat Anodize. Stock lengths 2'- 14'. Special Lengths Available

• Length:  2' - 14'
• Weight:  .326 lbs/ft 
• Finish:  30 Min Clear Velo and Black Hard Coat Anodize

#2814    1.25" Genoa / T Track

1¼” Aluminum T Track has a curved base to accomodate mounting on spars and to provide a positive area for sealant. Genoa car adjustment holes are spaced every 4" for maximum control. Available in 30 Minute Clear Velo Anodize and Black Hard Coat Anodize. Stock lengths 2'- 14'. Special Lengths Available.

#2814   1" &  1.25" T Track End Stops

1" and 1¼” End Stops are made of Delrin and are available in both Black and Grey. End Caps finish off a track installation and prevent cars from sliding off the track, and fair the end of the track to help prevent line fouling.

• Fasteners:  1/4"- 5/16" Flat Head 
• Hole Spacing:  -
• Alloy: Delrin Plastic
• Weight:  .50 oz
• Finish:  Black or Grey

#2837    Tartan 41 Slotted Toe Rail

New-Old Product.  A Brand New die to produce the same toe rail used on many older big boats such as the T-41 and others. An exact replacement for the Tartan 41’s produced in the 70s-80’s. .440” Square Mounting holes are spaced 5.0” on center and are .75” OC in from outboard end. Rail has .875” x 2.00” oval slots with a .4375 radius also on 5.0” centers. This is a big rail and measures just over 2” in height from the deck. Black Hard Coat Anodized provides a long- lasting finish.

• Fasteners:  .44" Carriage Bolt
• Hole Spacing: 5" O.C.
• Slots: .875 x 2.00" .437" radius
• Length:  20'-0"
• Weight:  28.04 lbs/pc
• Finish:  Black Hard Coat Anodize

#2818HC-20    Old Style C&C Aft Toe Rail

An exact replacement for most of the Canadian built C & C's of the 70's and 80's Mounting holes are spaced 4.0” on center. Rail has 6.75” x 1.57” oval slots on 3.50” centers. Lengths are all 20'-0" as per the original design. Black Hard Coat Anodized provides a long- lasting finish.

• Fasteners:  .310" Flat Head
• Slots: 3.50" O.C.
• Weight:  14.84 lbs/pc

#2818HC-155    Old Style C&C Fwd Toe Rail

Exactly the same as 2818HC Aft rail with the exception of the slot spacing which is 10½" on center and the lengths are 15'-6" as per the original design.

• Slots: 10.50" O.C.
• Length:  15'-6"
• Weight:  11.50 lbs/pc

#2819CL-24    Hunter Marine Toe Rail

This  is a direct replacement for many of the Hunter Marine toerails found on boats produced during the 80's. Available in 24'-0" lengths only at the present time.  Hole spacing is 6" on center.

• Hole Spacing: 6" O.C.
• Weight:  27.15 lbs/pc
• Finish:  Clear Anodize

#2820CL-24    Hunter Marine "Legend Series" Toe Rail

This is a direct replacement for many of the Hunter Marine Legend Series toe rails found on boats produced during the 80's. Available in 24'-0" lengths only at the present time.  Hole spacing is 6" on center.

• Fasteners:  ¼" Round Square Neck Bolt
• Slots: 6" O.C.
• Weight:  27.6 lbs/pc

#2821HC-24    Hunter 37 Slotted Toe Rail

Another exact replacement for the earlier Hunter Sailboats.  This toe rail was standard on the Hunter 37 and others built during the 70’s and early 80's. Available in 24'-0" lengths with mounting hole spacing 6" on center, and 1.25” x .625” slots on 6” centers.

• Weight:  28.36 lbs/pc

#2816HC-28    Olson 30/ Olson 911  Toe Rail

This is another exact replacement for toe rail used on the George Olson designed Olson 25, 29, 30, 911’s and the Santa Cruz 27.  In keeping with the boat’s ultra-light design, this is an extremely light weight rail with 3/8” x 1¼” slots spaced on 2” centers.  Unlike the original slots, which were punched out and rough, all of our slots are milled with a smooth radius at the edges to prevent chafe.  Just as the original; mounting holes are not pre-drilled, allowing an exact match to existing holes on the boat, or off-setting the holes and starting fresh.  A small groove located along the top inboard area serves as a “locator” when drilling into the section.

• Fasteners:  N/A
• Hole Spacing: None
• Slots: 2" O.C.
• Length:  28'-4"
• Weight:  13.0 lbs/pc

#2822HC-24    Cape North Slotted Toe Rail

Exact replacement for toe rail installed on the Ted Brewer designed Cape North 43’s  built in the 1970’s and other yachts from that time period.  This rail is designed for a deck camber of approx 10° and measures 2½” above the deck.  This is a heavy toe rail with .250” vertical wall thickness and a .515” “bulb” at the top.

• Fasteners:  5/16" Flat Head
• Hole Spacing: 3" O.C.
• Slots: 5" O.C.
• Weight:  36.0 lbs/pc
• Finish:  Class I Black Hardcoat Anodize

#2823CL-19    Wauquiez Pretorien 35

An exact replacement for toe rail installed on the Wauquiez Pretorien line of sailboats.  This rail is designed with a 2.519” concave radius under the base and measures 2.122” above the deck, but has no outer flange as many of the other toe rails do.  This is also a heavy toe rail with .229” vertical wall thickness and a substantial “bulb” at the top. Available in Clear Anodize Finish only.

• Hole Spacing:  112mm O.C.
• Slots: 4.409" O.C.
• Length:  6m
• Weight:  30 lbs/pc
• Finish:  60 Min Velo Clear Anodize

#2828CL-24    O'Day 40 Toe Rail

An exact replacement for the combination toe rail/ rub rail installed on the O'Day 40 as well as the O'Day 39.  The toe rail features a base that is 1.55" wide with a vertical leg measuring 1.367" above the deck.  Slots are spaced 7.875" on center with mounting holes spaced 3.9375" on center.  The outside flange overlaps the hull .606" and mates with the lower rub rail portion.  The lower rub rail measures 1.77" in overall height and is not pre-drilled allowing for an exact match to existing holes or allowing you to offset existing holes and start fresh. This toe rail is available in clear anodize only.

• Hole Spacing:  3.9375" O.C.
• Slots: 7.892" O.C.
• Weight:  17.68 lbs/pc
• Finish:  30 Min Velo Clear Anodize

#2829CL-30    Bavaria 51 Toe Rail

An exact replacement for toe rail installed on the Bavaria 51 line of sailboats.  Available in 29'-6" lengths with mounting hole spacing 2.905" on center, and 2.43” x .786” slots on 11.62” centers.

• Hole Spacing:  2.905" O.C.
• Slots: 11.62" O.C.
• Length:  29'-6"
• Weight:  31.92 lbs/pc

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Toe-tally Worth It – Toe Rail Replacement

Posted by Marissa Neely | Hull & Structure , Projects

Replacing leaky toerails with beautiful bulwarks was an intensive but rewarding job.

D espite her many attributes, our 1979 Cheoy Lee 41,  Avocet , for a time was living up to the epithet “Cheoy Leaky,” and when my husband, Chris, and I realized that the toerail was a significant source for many of those leaks, we knew we had to come up with a solution. We put a Band-Aid on by applying a bead of Teak Decking Systems caulking on the seam where the toerail met the deck and hull. That mitigated the problem for a couple of years until we had the time, money, and plan to convert our leaky toerails to lovely bulwarks.

Back in the 1970s when  Avocet  was built, the Cheoy Lee Shipyard in Hong Kong was known for its strong fiberglass construction. To make the hull-to-deck joint on which the toerail would reside, Cheoy Lee glassed in a shelf where the deck would sit in and on the hull. As the deck was dropped into place, builders applied a generous amount of sealant in the joint, then fiberglassed the two pieces from the inside.

Externally, the joint was not glassed over—a labor-intensive and expensive additional step. The quicker, tried-and-true approach was to construct a toerail and through-bolt it on top of the joint; on  Avocet , the 41-foot-long, 1¼-inch by 4-inch toerail was bent into place and drilled every 12 inches down through the wood, the deck, and the hull shelf before finally being bolted in place.

And in that final step—bolting—lay the rub. Cheoy Lee was also known for using poor-quality stainless steel, and the galvanically corroded stainless bolts and bronze nuts that connected the toerail to the deck compromised the otherwise solid structural integrity, in addition to being prone to leaking. When we removed what was left of 180-plus bolts, many of them crumbled in our hands, making it clear where the water had found voids to creep below.

Faced with the choice of repairing the damage and installing a new toerail or considering a completely new option, we opted for the latter and began looking into designing and installing a bulwark.

What’s the difference between a toerail and a bulwark? In the most basic way explained to us by various boat designers, a toerail is a piece of wood, aluminum, or fiberglass that usually does not exceed more than 3 inches tall and is bolted every few inches through the deck. Anything bigger, which typically is bolted to the stanchions for support, is called a bulwark.

Because whatever we chose would be integral to the hull-to-deck joint, we considered sailor and author John Kretschmer ’s advice on the matter, noting that the ideal hull-to-deck joint for a bluewater boat “does not rely on bolts, screws, rivets, or adhesive for strength or watertightness. The joint is heavily glassed on the inside, the entire way around the boat, and solid stainless steel rods [are used] for mounting stanchions [that] are recessed into the bulwark thus eliminating potential leaks so common when stanchion bases are through-bolted.”

Choosing the bulwark option would give us that sought-for seamless hull-to-deck joint, which would reinforce the interior glass as well as reconcile the damage and voids left by the old bolt holes. Unlike a toerail, we could drill far fewer holes to fasten the bulwark bases and stanchions, further limiting potential for leaks—and we wouldn’t use the dissimilar metals (stainless steel bolts and bronze nuts) as the builder had, so corrosion would be much less likely.

Inspired by a blog called Far Reach Voyages, in which the boat owners created and installed bulwarks on their Cape Dory 36 using a Lyle Hess Bristol Channel Cutter blueprint, we developed our design to incorporate a 6-inch-tall wooden bulwark that would sit about 1½ inches off the deck.

Chris concluded that the best way to mount the bulwark was by fastening it to a series of stainless steel L-brackets installed along the deck. Using this design, we could keep our existing stanchion bases by incorporating them into the L-brackets, making the brackets’ horizontal surface just slightly larger than the stanchion bases. When the time came to bolt the brackets to the deck, these bolts would first go through the stanchion bases, which would sit directly on top of the brackets’ horizontal surface. This would mechanically join each bracket and stanchion base without requiring us to weld them together, which would have been costly.

After running our bulwark plan by boatwrights, engineers, and local fabricators, we concluded that our design idea was sound, and we got to work. We planned to make the toerail-to-bulwark conversion part of a series of projects that included repainting the topsides and deck.

We did as much prep work in our slip as we could before our haulout. We removed the toerail by drilling out what was left of the corroded through bolts. We used a crowbar to pry the teak up from the hull-to-deck joint, though in some places where it had been sealed with 5200, we Sawzalled the pieces out.

We used an angle grinder with a flap disk to remove any remaining old caulking. Once the joint was clean(ish), Chris measured 3 inches down from the deck and marked a dot every few feet. Using a 15-foot batten we found in the boatyard, he laid the batten along the dots and then then hot-glued it to the hull. This would act as a guiding edge for the router, which he fitted with a 1/2-inch-wide straight bit.

With it, he removed a 3-inch-wide, ¼-inch-deep band of fiberglass along the outer edge of the deck and top edge of the hull. This created a bed for the two layers of 6-inch 1708 fiberglass cloth we would lay in to seal the exterior edges of the hull-to-deck joint beneath.

We did one last round of sanding with 60-grit before rounding the sharp edge where the deck met the hull, using a ½-inch roundover bit in the router. This would allow the glass to adhere better, as fiberglass does not like to conform to hard bends. Since we had anticipated laying up two layers of glass, we rounded this edge deeply enough for the glass to be inlaid with room on top for fairing compound.

With the surface prepped, we were finally ready to glass. Using a nifty worktable we had set up, I cut the glass and wet it out using a fin roller and squeegee before passing it off to Chris. This method preserved our epoxy supply and increased our efficiency. We started with the smaller area of the transom, then expanded our work to the starboard and then port sides.

Chris first applied a thin layer of US Composites medium epoxy hardener to the working surface. Working in 6-foot sections gave him just enough time to lay the fiberglass and work each piece into the edge with a fin roller to remove all the air bubbles, then be ready for the next layer as soon as I was done wetting it out. We continued this method for all 88 feet over the course of two days, taking three hours per side.

Twenty-four hours after the glass had set, we lightly sanded using 80-grit on the orbital sander to remove the amine blush and any high spots before we began applying fairing compound. Using US Composites fairing filler and epoxy, we applied three rounds of fairing compound, sanding with our Flexisander long board with 80-grit between each application to ensure a smooth surface. Then, we rolled on a two-part epoxy barrier coat that we used on not only the bottom but the topsides as well, since as a cruising boat, the entire hull is subjected to being constantly wet and rolling in the swell.

We used the barrier coat as blister protection as well as for its ultra-high-build primer characteristics that filled the small cracks, low spots, pinholes, and things we couldn’t see with the naked eye while fairing. This showed us where we needed to sand, fill, and fair more before continuing on to the Awlgrip primer for the topsides paint job.

Slowly,  Avocet  began to look a bit less derelict, with the grey barrier paint hiding her once-fairing-compound-pink hull-to-deck joint and various splotches revealing hull imperfections. Chris rolled the Awlgrip primer, and two days later,  Avocet  was completely off-white and only had to be sanded one more time before being ready for the final topcoat.

The Supports

First, though, we had to prepare for the installation of the bulwark supports. We had purchased nine 24-by-4-by-¼-inch-thick 316L stainless steel bars, which we then cut in half (it was cheaper to buy them at twice the length than to buy them at the actual length needed). After cutting them into 12-inch sections, Chris used an angle grinder with a 150-grit floppy disk to remove the matte finish left over from being cold-rolled in the manufacturing process.

Next, we had to measure the degree for each L-bracket to be bent. Each was slightly different due to the deck’s curvature. To obtain precise measurements, we used two straight pieces of timber about 16 inches long, placed one on the deck and one along the hull, and then measured the bisecting point. This measurement would ensure that the bulwark would be following the sheer line of the hull itself.

Then, we sent the measurements and the bases to a Southern California fabricator, Garhauer Marine, where a hydraulic press bent all 16 bases quickly and effortlessly. This sounds so much easier than it actually was, since dialing in the degrees on a 1/4-inch piece of stainless steel all comes down to the skill of the operator. Luckily, Doug Garhauer had over one million “hits” with this press, so we knew our metal was in experienced hands.

While Garhauer had the L-brackets, Chris used a brass L-bracket template made from a prototype to recess the bulwark bases down into the deck. This way, they would sit flush when mounted with the stanchion base on top, giving a more “factory” appearance. Chris placed the template at every stanchion base location as a guide and used a router to cut the 1/4-inch-deep pockets into the deck. Once this process of cutting holes in our so carefully faired deck was finished, we could complete the topside painting.

With the custom-shaped bases in hand, the next step was drilling out the holes to attach the stanchion bases. This also sounds easier than it was; for one thing, the stanchion bases had different hole patterns, so we would need to custom drill each one. Doug Garhauer had educated Chris on the proper technique for drilling through hard and thick material such as our stainless steel. It all comes down to using the proper tools—but not everyone can keep a drill press onboard! With Doug’s advice and our wonderful friend letting us borrow his drill press, Chris was able to drill the bases, as well as the four holes in each vertical where the bulwark boards would attach.

Finally, it was time to attach the L-brackets and stanchions to the deck. We placed the stanchion bases on top of the bracket bases with a healthy amount of butyl tape between them, then placed more butyl tape on the bottom of the brackets to seal the area between the deck and the base. We through-bolted the bases using 2½-inch-long 316 stainless steel 5/16 machine screws. Finally, we added a bead of Sikaflex to entirely fill the remaining 1/8-inch gap between the bases and the recessed deck edge.

The Bulwarks

The wood we used to construct our bulwarks was a hot topic aboard for weeks. We wanted to use teak again, but our wallets did not agree, so we researched alternative rot-resistant hardwoods. There were many great options like white oak, purple heart, black acacia, and mahogany, but we finally settled on cumaru, also known as Brazilian teak.

We ordered 100 feet of 20-foot-long, 6 x 1-inch boards from Advantage Lumber. On this part of the project, COVID became a factor when the supplier ran out of 6-inch boards, and we had to opt for 51/2-inch. At this point, we had already completed the L-bracket fabrication and drilling; this would mean that the verticals of the L-brackets would stand slightly proud of the tops of the bulwark boards. Not ideal, but it had taken months already just to get the 51/2-inch boards, so we decided to live with it.

While waiting for the wood to arrive, Chris studied scarf joints to choose the best method to join three sections of wood into a single 42-foot board. He settled on a mechanically fastened, plated scarf joint that would be 32 inches long. Hours went into mathematical equations sketched out on his signature yellow legal pad to ensure the cuts would be precise, since we only had one shot at getting this right, or else we would have to order new wood—and who knew how long that would take to be delivered? Once he transferred the sketches to the wood, Chris used an accurate combo square, circular saw, Japanese hand saw, sharp chisels, assorted drill bits, 316 stainless hardware, and marine glue to construct the bulwark plank.

With the help of our friends, we carefully maneuvered the heavy, long, and bendy plank to the L-brackets, where I was quick to secure them with C-clamps. With the bulwark now dry-fitted into place, we stood back and admired how nicely this project had come together. We were thrilled to learn that we would not have to steam the wood to conform to the boat’s shape, which was ultimately a relief despite our elaborate plan to create a steam bag using a thick plastic bag and a turkey fryer for steam.

Sixty-four 316 stainless steel fasteners later, we had bulwarks! The wood completed  Avocet ’s newly improved look, adding a hint of timeless design to her somewhat more modern construct, as well as an admiring nod to one of Chris’ favorite designers, Lyle Hess.

The final pieces were the hawse holes that would replace our prior fairleads, which we felt did not do the overall hull design justice. After Chris sanded, polished, and inset them into the bulwarks, the cast-bronze additions sparkled, beautifully complementing the wood and the boat’s overall look.

When the last hawse hole was in place, we broke free of the docklines that had seemingly weighed us down like shackles and made a mad dash to the Channel Islands so we could enjoy our boat the way she was intended. The water splashed on deck, washing overboard immediately under the bulwark through the slim gap. It was perfect. The bulwark’s height made it easy to safely store jerry cans, fenders, lines, and even the dinghy without the deck looking cluttered.

About The Author

Marissa Neely

Chris and Marissa Neely have been living aboard and upgrading their 1979 Cheoy Lee 41, Avocet, since 2018. Primarily they sail in and around Southern California’s Channel Islands. Follow them at svavocet.com, on other social platforms at @svavocet, and on their YouTube channel called Sailing Avocet.

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Repair of Teak Toe Rail

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My 35 year old teak toe rails are worn down and cracked. Don't have the time or money to remove and replace, and they still work and I believe can be renovated to provide another 35 years service. Thoughts are to use epoxy to fill all cracks, and voids, and maybe try to "build up" any worn areas, then varnish. No way I am trying to get back to original, but just trying to get more life out of what I have. Any comments as to how this might work? Regards  

I wouldn't rely on my advice, but that's basically what I'd do.  

Epoxy will break down under the UV rays eventually. Varnish offers some UV protection but is a bit of a maintenance nightmare, IMHO. For more maintenance free toe rails I'd consider painting them after patching with a good marine paint. Color of your choice...  

Given Caleb's comment, if you decide to go the epoxy route, you might find this interesting: Epoxy test results from six epoxy types  

I'd epoxy repair, then paint.  

Sounds like epoxy then paint would be best. FYI, I have and plan to use MAS epoxy and they do also sell a "teak wood flour" that I plan to use with the epoxy as a filler. Thanks for input.  

How big are these areas? Epoxy is brittle. Filling small cracks might be OK but larger voids could be problematic. Also, make sure it's a thin epoxy that will soak well into the surrounding teak and bond with it. I like epoxypoducts.com Tons of good info on what their different products can do plus some good tech support. Plus prices are way lower than others and just as good or better. Every one of theirs is amine free, no blush.  

Some of the teak rail has cracks running down the length of the rail that would be no more than 1/16" inch wide. some voids are maybe 1/2 inch diameter. There are a vew areas where the teak has been worn down to the screw that used to be counter sunk and plugged. This is an area where I might try to build up the railing, although I might have a bonding problem and will probably not be able to build back the full 1/2 inch, but maybe at least cover the screw heads.  

Why epoxy before painting? Since you are not encapsulating the teak epoxy is probably unnecessary and darn hard to fair. Fill with a good flexible, paintable, filler. Then prime and paint. But the exposed heads may leak, epoxied or not.  

I have done this type of repair, although on a smaller scale. Epoxy will be more durable than wood filler, toe rails get a lot of abuse. Adding wood flour will give it more substance, and make it much easyer to work with. The slight cracks will have to be enlarged to get filled, large areas to be built up will need a form built to retain the epoxy (wood strips or stiff cardboard covered in plastic wrap will work). As noted above epoxy is not UV stable so varnish or paint will be needed. The filled areas will have no grain, so even if you can match the color varnish will have an irregular look. I have used MAS and System 3 epoxy with good results. Another option is to replace it. You mentioned that is not your plan, but salvaging metal toe rails from another ruined boat might be pretty low cost. Labor wise it might be a break even proposition as you are looking at a lot of prep work, epoxy sanding and then finishing the rails.  

I'm going to chime in here since I have the same boat Casey. FWIW, we replaced the teak cap rails and varnished them. It was a significant expense (materials alone were probably $1,600) and it was not easy. The rail has enough of a bend in it that you either need to steam bend the beam and the stern, cut them out of a wide piece, before scarfing the pieces to the rest of the rail or do what we ended up doing, which was to create the mid part of the rail in two halves (longitudinally) and then bend each half onto the rail and epoxy them together. I'm glad I didn't take this on personally, as it looked very difficult, but the work came out very nice. The varnish obligation is not insignificant. So with all that out the way, I will say that there are certain boats that will stand out with a nice, varnished cap rail, and the S&S34 is one of them. I rarely take mine out without being approached by strangers to talk about the boat. It is a head turner. I can't say you won't regret going with a varnished cap rail (especially when you are laying on yet another coat of varnish), but it will have a return on your sweat equity. YMMV.  

Plumbean, Good points. I would like to keep the toe rail teak for looks, as you point out, and also for function, as we are barefoot on the boat and I would rather step on a rounded teak toe rail than an aluminum extrusion. Also, the screws holding my toe rail are not visible from the inside of the boat. There is another glass layer that covers both the toe rail fasteners and the deck to hull joint. Therefore, disturbing the fasteners opens up a can of worms. My boat is completely dry inside, even when beating into 35 knots and 10 foot wind chop, rather not do somthing that could change that. I will try the epoxy route first, as I really do not have much to loose, and see how it goes. Maybe in 35 years I will need all new rails.  

casey1999 said: ...Also, the screws holding my toe rail are not visible from the inside of the boat. There is another glass layer that covers both the toe rail fasteners and the deck to hull joint. Therefore, disturbing the fasteners opens up a can of worms. Click to expand...

All told it makes sense to go ahead with the epoxy. I mentioned smaller cracks may have to be enlarged, but I have had some luck using a dental syringe to fill small cracks. You can try different types of wood flour to try to get a close match on larger areas, and from 10 feet or so it may not be very noticable. The best part is you can buy a small amount of material to start and see how it goes. Better wood scrapers can save a lot of time with epoxy, get to it before it fully hardens and you can save a lot of sanding, a stanley surform rasp also works great for rough shaping. Part of my change of heart as it relates to metal rails involve my boat, a Tartan 30, pretty much a slimmed down S&S 34 (S&S 30's were also made, very close to T30 and Yankee 30). I just finished stripping sanding and re-finishing my wood toe rails this afternoon and although I hate the labour it looks great.  

baboon said: Part of my change of heart as it relates to metal rails involve my boat, a Tartan 30, pretty much a slimmed down S&S 34 (S&S 30's were also made, very close to T30 and Yankee 30). I just finished stripping sanding and re-finishing my wood toe rails this afternoon and although I hate the labour it looks great. Click to expand...

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Midship cleat on toe rail?

• Thread starter libraryjeans
• Start date Aug 20, 2021
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Ask A Hunter Owner

libraryjeans

I just purchased a 1991 Hunter 28. For some reason cleats weren’t mounted midship - which makes single handed docking a challenge. There is a sturdy perforated toe rail. How do other owners cope without a mid cleat and/or any suggestions to add something to the toe rail to act as a cleat?  

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your new sailboat!! If it was my sailboat I would install a mid-cleat vs. tieing off from the toe rail using the procedure described in this article: Install Midship Cleats and Dock Like a Pro – The $tingy Sailor (stingysailor.com)  

sail sfbay said: Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your new sailboat!! If it was my sailboat I would install a mid-cleat vs. tieing off from the toe rail using the procedure described in this article: Install Midship Cleats and Dock Like a Pro – The $tingy Sailor (stingysailor.com) Click to expand

Sailfanatic

One drawback of adding a cleat to the deck or rail, is it's going to tend to catch the lazy sheet and mess up tacks at the worst time. If you add a cleat, I'd make it a folding or popup cleat. I wonder what the drawback is to simply insert one end of the dockline as a loop through an opening and over the rail, then run the other end through the loop so the dockline is secured to the rail? While the rail-attached end may be subject to a fraying risk, this line doesn't need to be part of the long term tie-up, but just to complete the docking maneuver.  

Garhauer track cleat that goes on the jib track. Really reasonable price, amazing quality and does what you need and can be moved at the start of your sail easily to accomodate jib car movement.  

twistedskipper

IDK but some of these ideas seem OK for use during temporary docking maneuvers, but maybe not for long term docking. I’m just not sure toe rails and genoa tracks are necessarily intended for full time docking loads.  

twistedskipper said: I’m just not sure toe rails and genoa tracks are necessarily intended for full time docking loads. Click to expand

I have the garhauer track cleat. NEVER had a problem with hanging up lazy sheet. But if it did, it's very simple to un hang it... The cleat sits on the toe rail, directly beneath the life line.... and if you have genoa sheets running outside the life lines it is almost physically impossible.... But wait.... let's say there is an occasion where hanging up may happen. The simply lift the knob and slide the cleat to a less vulnerable position. You can slide the thing to any place along the track you want. How can you go wrong with that, plus the price is right. That said... I am more apt to use the track mounted cleat for spring lines where the load is fore and aft... rather than a breast line or any other type of connection where the load would be side to side. Just my guess, I have no actual documented evidence to verify my though, I'm just visualizing the leverage over a narrow 1-1.25" base in side to side use, opposed to the 4 or 5 inch base in fore and aft.  

C.S. Johnson Folding Toe Rail Cleat - 48-510

Why not just add mid-ship cleats? A previous owner of my O’Day 322 added them. I use a cabin-top winch and permanently mounted dock line with a loop to motor against to hold me tight against my finger pier. Once I an stable and holding in place, I can jump off the boat and throw on the stern, bow and spring lines (also permanently on the dock). Greg  

Different model boat here, but this is what I did to solve our docking issues: Hunter 42 Owner Modifications and Upgrades  

jssailem said: I like midship cleats. Allows me to single hand my docking without any one needing to "Jump" to the dock. I chose to install a foldable cleat. Uses 1/2" dock line. View attachment 197391 View attachment 197390 Click to expand

VT Fitz said: except when I forget to fold one down and stub my toe anyway! Click to expand

heritage said: I have not used one of these but have read good reviews. Should be perfect for single handed docking and they can be folded out of the way. C.S. Johnson Folding Toe Rail Cleat - 48-510 Features: The C.S. Johnson 48-510 Folding Toe Rail Cleat makes a perfect easily movable, mid-ship cleat for spring lines, fenders etc. Applications: Fits Most Aluminum Toe Rails Cleat Folds Out of the Way Fits most symmetric and asymmetri www.defender.com Click to expand

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eastward ho sailboat for sale

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Designed by Eldredge-McInnis and built by Portsmouth Yacht Co., the Eastward Ho is a compact yet roomy sloop designed for family cruising in comfort. She is a proven design which combines traditional elegance with practical accommodations. Nothing has been overlooked to satisfy both the sailor and the cruising enthusiast. Her generous headroom, two berths, full galley, and enclosed head are unique on a boat of this size. Her spacious cockpit affords seats long enough for an afternoon nap or additional overnight guests. Sailing or under power she is lively and responsive with a motion reminiscent of a much larger boat. Her ample beam and sufficient ballast make her very stiff without sacrificing valuable draft.

Attabuoy  is in need of general cleaning inside and out and some cosmetic work. The keel will need some minor fiberglass work. The sails are like new. The engine turns over, but has not been operated for a number of years. Take a look and you will fall in love!

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Hull color - white

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Keel - internal lead

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eastward ho 24 for sale

• eastward ho 24

1976 CE Ryder Eastward Ho 24 sailboat for sale in Connecticut

Ce ryder eastward ho 24.

Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co., Rhode Island, USA, this stout pocket cruiser is a solid full-keel sailing vessel. Omoo has had a lot...

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1976 PORTSMOUTH Eastward Ho

Neptune, New Jersey

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Model Eastward Ho

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1976 PORTSMOUTH Eastward Ho All of the prep work has been done and she's just about ready for paint. This is a great opportunity for someone looking to customize an Eastward Ho their way and do it cheap!   Seller has all parts to complete this project. Also available separately is the completely rebuilt 14HP Volvo MD7A Diesel engine, ready to be placed in the boat.  Top to Bottom rebuild was performed by world renowned Monmouth Marine Engines of Brielle NJ. $3000 Invested.

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• Sailboat Guide

Eastward HO 24

Eastward HO 24 is a 23 ′ 7 ″ / 7.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Walter McInnis and built by C. E. Ryder starting in 1975.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Originally designed for wood contruction. The hulls of the later, FG version were built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co. Diesel power was available as an option.

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Eastward ho 24 preowned sailboats for sale by owner. Eastward ho 24 used sailboats for sale by owner.

Both salon settees turn into two twin beds so can sleep 4 adults. YEAR: 1977 MAKE: Portsmouth Yacht Co MODEL: Eastward Ho CLASS: Sloop, Pocket Cruiser LENGTH: 26' (24' with 2' boomkin) HULL MATERIAL: FIberglass reinforced plastic FUEL TYPE: Diesel. AIR CONDITIONING: Drop in Cruise Air. ALL PHOTOS ARE RECENT.

1978. 31'. 10'. 4.2'. Florida. $12,900. Description: Airyella is a classic New England style sloop - has incredible character, is very distinctive, and is a pleasure to sail. She is perfect for anyone looking for a boat that will sail, and anchor overnight with 1-5 people, comfortably in the bay and the Keys and beyond, at a fantastic price.

1976. 24'. 9'. 4'. Connecticut. $12,000. Description: Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co., Rhode Island, USA, this stout pocket cruiser is a solid full-keel sailing vessel. Omoo has had a lot of updates including new diesel engine (Kubota Beta marine), rebuilt gearbox (2021), new standing and running rigging (2020), new ...

Broker: Designed by Eldredge-McInnis and built by Portsmouth Yacht Co., the Eastward Ho is a compact yet roomy sloop designed for family cruising in comfort. She is a proven design which combines traditional elegance with practical accommodations. Nothing has been overlooked to satisfy both the sailor and the cruising enthusiast.

A boat with a BN of 1.6 or greater is a boat that will be reefed often in offshore cruising. Derek Harvey, "Multihulls for Cruising and Racing", International Marine, Camden, Maine, 1991, states that a BN of 1 is generally accepted as the dividing line between so-called slow and fast multihulls.

Model McInnis. Category Sailboats. Length 31'. Posted Over 1 Month. 1985 #1 Hull McInnis,31 ft., 4.5ft. draft, McInnis Cutter rig Eastward Ho series. 28hp Yanmar diesel, All hardwood Interior, Complete custom finished, In bristol condition. Completely blue water equipt.Leave Message at 772/283-0853. $40000.

Go to Sailing Texas classifieds for current sailboats for sale . Eastward HO 24, 1977 LOA 25'5" LWL 20' Beam 8'8" Draft 3'10" SA 283 sq ft Ballast 3,600 Displacement 7,000 Keel Full Designed by Thomas F. Eldredge/Walter J. Mcinnis and built by the Portsmouth Boat Company (UK).

Used 1978 Eastward Ho 31 for sale is located in Bienville National Forest (Mississippi, United States of America). This vessel was designed and built by the Eastward shipyard in 1978. Key features 1978 Eastward Ho 31: length 9.45 meters. engine: fuel type - diesel. 1978 Eastward Ho 31 refers to classes: sailing yachts , sailboats and sailing ...

Seller's Description. Portsmouth Eastward Ho 24, 1978 sailboat for sale I am selling my 1978 Portsmouth Eastward Ho 24 for $12,500. The boat is in Alamitos Bay (Seal Beach, CA / Long Beach, CA) where the buyer may assume the slip at $320 a month. Very nice location, across the street from the new 2nd and PCH outdoor mall.

Go to Sailing Texas classifieds for current sailboats for sale Eastward Ho, 24 ft., 1975 No. 55, 1975. Highly regarded Eldridge/McGinnis cruising design- Full keel, 4 ft. draft. ... The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more. Formula. D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³ ...

Seller's Description. 1980 Portsmouth Yacht Co Eastward Ho 31. She is a classic designed in 1959, built in 1980. Similar to the Sea Sprite 33 that Robin Graham sailed around the world. Custom interior Volvo Penta MD2B 25hp Nice thick teak toe rail Electric Windlass Auto Helm Updated hardware above deck Updated rigging Bimini, dodger frames ...

Search eastward ho 24 prices - more than 1 listings - Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co., Rhode Island, USA, this stout pocket cruiser is a solid full-keel sailing vessel. ... 1976 CE Ryder Eastward Ho 24 sailboat for sale in Connecticut. Ce Ryder eastward ho 24 . Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth ...

Boat Trader currently has 3 Eastward boats for sale, including 1 new vessels and 2 used boats listed by both private sellers and professional yacht brokers and boat dealerships mainly in United States. The oldest model listed is a contemporary boat built in 2018 and the newest model year of 2021.

Join Date: Aug 2018. Posts: 3. Eastward Ho 31 Sailboat. Cutter Rig. Eldredge McInnis design, built in RI by C. Ryder Yachts. Roller furling jib. Jib boom & roller for twin furlers. Re-built Volvo Penta 30hp with spare engine & transmission. Bimini & dodger.

35.5' Endeavour E35 Presently on the hard for winter storage at Morgans Marina, New Jersey Asking $35,000

2015 Malibu Wakesetter 22 VLX. Battle Creek, MI. $40,000. 2008 Hydra-Sports 2200 CC. Sarasota, FL. $26,500. 2 new and used Portsmouth Eastward Ho boats for sale at smartmarineguide.com.

First S-400 bltn, Elektrostal, Moscow.

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Advertisement. Eastward HO 24 is a 23′ 7″ / 7.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Walter McInnis and built by C. E. Ryder starting in 1975.