hand line fishing sailboat

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Handline Fishing Tips for Offshore Sailors

Vegetarian boaters should read no further - this isn't for you.

But handline fishing is a skill that all other cruising sailors should acquaint themselves with.

Don't be put off by the word 'handline' - you don't have to hold it all the time. Just wait until a hooked fish announces its predicament, then haul it in.

We're not talking about sport fishing here - sailboat fishing is all about catching fish to eat.

And there's more good news...

You won't need any expensive rods and reels.

Handline fishing gear is simple, robust and inexpensive.

Once you've tasted your first handline-caught fish - whether caught while sailing offshore or at anchor - I'm pretty sure you'll agree that the investment was cheap indeed.

A Handline Fishing Rig for Sailing Offshore

Here's the basic gear, a simple handline fishing rig for trolling offshore...

Just 100 feet (30m) of 300lb main line, a snap swivel and a further 20 feet (7m) of 300lb leader attached to a skirted trolling lure.

You won't be able to tie secure knots in this heavy line; only crimped connections will hold under load.

Note that the trolling weight on the main line is optional - only use it if the lure skips along the surface and refuses to submerge. For best results the lure should 'swim' a few feet below the surface, but should break the surface every few seconds before submerging again.

Look for the bubble trail streaming out from the lure. This is the sign of a good, fish-catching lure as it's this that creates 'noise' in the water and attracts the fish to your lure.

Whatever type of trolling lure you use for handline fishing, remember to check it now and again to remove any flotsam it may have picked up, redeploy it and await the arrival of Neptune's bounty.

Use a Snubber Line for Handline Fishing

Artwork by Andrew Simpson

This is an essential addition to any trolling handline. The 'snubber' is the bungee cord; it acts as a shock absorber and will prevent the fish from tearing itself free of the hook when it first realises it's in a spot of bother. It also lets you know when you've got a fish. If it's fully extended, get pulling!

The eBook that contains everything you need to know about catching fish from a sailboat!

If you're serious about catching fish while underway, then you really should take a look at it.

Considering its true value, you'll be absolutely amazed at its price! In a nice way, of course...

Take a look at 'Secrets of Sailboat Fishing' Here!

Ocean fish are fast, powerful creatures and in their struggle to get free they will use every ounce of their considerable energy. So, a few safety rules when handline fishing:~

• Always use tough gloves when hauling in the fish and never, ever take a loop of line around your hand;
• When hauling in a fish, be careful not to step into the loops of line that will accumulate in the cockpit. OK, the fish on the end of the line may not be enormous but the one that grabs it just might be!
• Always have a sharp knife to hand, just in case;
• A large, hugely agitated freshly caught fish leaping around in the cockpit is at its most dangerous. Place a wet towel over it to calm it down, and pour some strong alcohol (not your best malt whisky - the cheapest firewater will do the trick) in its gills to accelerate its passing;
• Wait until the fish is dead before attempting to unhook it.

Double Your Chances!

Why not use two trolling handlines, one from each quarter? Make one around 100 feet long (30m) and the second one a little longer, say 120 feet (35m) and use a different type of lure. As soon as you get a strike on one, bring the other one in, as two fish on at once will almost certainly lead to a major tangle - and no fish at all.

The longer line should be on the leeward side, which will help to space them apart.

What will My Handline Fishing Rig Catch?

In warm ocean zones these handline fishing rigs will catch the fish that hunt their prey close to the surface - tuna, wahoo, dorado, kingfish, barracuda, mackerel, jacks etc.

And having caught your fish, you'll need to know  how to kill it humanely, clean it and prepare it for cooking.

Ideally, your catch will be around the size of the kingfish shown here, but now and again you may hook one of the oceans' great billfish, a sailfish or a marlin for example.

The odds are that you won't get it to the boat - nor would you want to, I'm guessing. But if you do, please unhook it and release it if you can, or cut the line close to the mouth of the fish and let it swim free if you can't.

Are you serious about putting together a robust handline for offshore trolling?

Do you want to know exactly what to buy, where to buy it online and how much to pay for it?

If so, take a look at Assembling Your Offshore Trolling Handline .

They're just too magnificent a creature to kill, and they're not the best tasting fish in the sea.

Although these huge fish will take a small lure, they're more likely to ignore it than they would a large one.

So unless you want to do battle with an ocean gamefish, it's a good idea when sailboat fishing to use lures that don't exceed 8 inches (200mm) or so in overall length.

Top Tip #1 - Try a Teaser!

Fish get very excited when they detect a shoal of baitfish splashing around on the surface. You can replicate this activity by towing a splashy object a few feet in front of your lure. A half-filled plastic bottle works well, as does a net bag full of wine bottle corks.

If you're using two trolling handlines, one from each quarter, tie the teaser line to the backstay and make sure that all the splashing takes place a few feet ahead of the lure that's closest to the boat. This deception is probably the most effective way of getting fish to take an interest in your lures.

Top Tip #2 - Rig Up a Daisy Chain!

And you can also create more noise with a daisy chain.

A low-cost version can be made up by positioning a few plastic squid skirts along the leader at around 3 foot intervals, each one separated from the other by an overhand knot (or better, a crimp) and a bead.

Only the lure at the end of the line sports a hook; the others are merely decoys.

But what are the  best saltwater trolling lures  for sailboat fishing?

Next ~ My Very Fishy Story...

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Sailboat Fishing Guide: How to Fish from a Sailboat

Fishing tackle and equipment, fishing techniques and the lures to bring, where to fish while sailboat fishing, we've caught one, now what.

To rent, or to bring your own?

Bring your own gear, shimano tld-30iia reel .

Other equipment for fishing off a sailboat

Trolling from a sailboat for bluewater sportfish

Casting for mahi-mahi or tuna on the surface

• Birds or a disturbed water surface. This usually means the birds and fish are attacking a bait ball. Go join in on the action! They are in a frenzy and will eat anything.
• Mahi-mahi love to hang around weed lines or other floating debris. It is said they don't like the sun very much. Get close to investigate - you can often see them in clear water.

Bottom dropping for reef fish species

Jigging for bottom fish.

How to fillet your fish

• Tuna (yellowfin or blackfin)

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Making a hand line for offshore fishing

Most voyaging sailors fish for food rather than sport. Given that fact, the question arises as to what type of fishing setup to use.

With all the rigging on most sailboats, it is usually difficult to maneuver rods and reels when a fish is hooked, to say nothing of the fact that on split-rigged yachts, the rods get in the way of the mizzen booms and sheets. In my opinion, a hand-line is the way to go, but some voyagers aren’t quite sure how to rig one for easy use and stowage. I’d like to offer a description of a hand-line used on many Pacific Islands. I don’t know why it is called a Polynesian hand-line. It does make use of surgical tubing, such as is used in the hand-held spear termed a "Hawaiian sling."

This hand-line is simple to make, easy to stow, and very effective in catching fish. To construct it one will need a length of surgical tubing (found in most fish or dive shops), some heavy nylon cord (I prefer something with around 450-pound breaking strength), waxed marlin (or dental floss), heavy monofilament leader, a heavy-duty swivel, two snaps, lures for the waters one will be sailing in, and a piece of stiff wire like a coat hanger or some stainless-steel seizing wire.

Any hand-line requires some sort of snubbing device to prevent the fighting fish from breaking the line. Most of the time, the extra line that hangs between the ends of the snubbing device will tend to catch on anything that protrudes around the boat. The secret to this hand-line is the way in which the extra fish line is held within the surgical tubing that is used as a snubbing device.

The surgical tubing should be the largest diameter one can find, and anywhere from 1.5 to three feet in length. This tubing will do the work of fighting the fish, as well as preventing the rest of the rig from being broken. Sunlight and salt water combine to rot surgical tubing, so I always keep about 10 feet or more in my tackle box to make new lines as necessary. To make the rig last longer, rinse it well with fresh water after use, and stow away in the freezer if room allows.

Once the tubing has been cut, insert the wire through the center of the tubing and tape the heavy nylon cord to the end of the wire. This will facilitate "fishing" the cord through the tubing. Fishing the wire through the tubing is the most difficult part of the entire procedure. Once the cord is through the tubing, tie a bight in one end of the cord so that it can be attached to a cleat or fixture on deck. Tie an overhand knot about a foot or so from the bight, and work a half inch of the end of the surgical tubing over the knot. Wrap some of the waxed thread tightly around the tubing so that the knot cannot slip out. I have found that half a dozen tight wraps around the tubing, followed by a few half hitches, does the job.

Drop the bight of the line over a cleat on deck or on the dock, and take the untied end of the surgical tubing in hand. Hold the tubing tightly enough so that it won’t snap out of one’s grasp, but loosely enough to allow the tubing to slide over the cord. Pull the tubing out as far as possible, then tighten one’s grip to hold the cord in place and walk the tubing back to its original length. This will cause the cord to bunch up neatly inside the tubing. The tubing can stretch as necessary when fighting the fish, and the cord will remain inside, rather than forming an unsightly loop on the outside that will only get in the way and catch on something.

When the tubing is back to its original length, pull about an inch of cord back out of the tubing and tie another overhand knot as close to the end of the tubing as possible. Stretch the tubing out one more time, this time pulling the end over the knot, and secure it in place with more waxed thread.

The cord should be cut to the proper length and then be secured to a swivel. I use about 10 feet of heavy monofilament line at the end of the swivel (something with a breaking strength of around 150 pounds). I do this for several reasons. In the first place, I am fishing for meat rather than sport; I’m not trying to set records catching heavy fish on light tackle. Secondly, the heavier line is easier on the hands when one is trying to gaff the fish and get it aboard.

Some sailors like to use all monofilament, being of the opinion that at slower speeds the fish can see nylon line; but 10 feet of monofilament seems to serve the same purpose. Also, I tend to use a short leader between the lure and the mono-filament line because I can’t always get to a pair of gloves when I get a strike, and I don’t want to have my hands cut up with a light leader.

Lures will differ depending on what the local fish like to eat. Even that will vary depending on water temperature, food available, etc. Professional fishing skippers change lures regularly. They will also gut the first fish they catch to see what the fish have been eating. In my case, I have found two lures that work exceptionally well on hand-lines. One is a small flying fish that’s made in Japan, and the second is a gray or brown rubber squid with a light weight in the head. Many fishermen in the Hawaiian waters swear by feather lures, but the other two types have served me well for mahi-mahi, wahoo, jack, yellow-fin tuna and Allison tuna.

Since it is hard to work a large fish when constrained by the rigging of a sailing yacht, I like to use smaller lures. There is always a chance that a large fish will take it, but one will usually end up with something in the 15- to 20-pound range, certainly large enough to provide a few good meals for the crew.

The length of the overall hand-line rig will vary, but I have found that a lure working about one and a half boat lengths aft works well.

Affix the bight of the rig to a convenient cleat, usually near the lifeline gate where the helmsman can keep an eye on it. Then coil up the surgical tubing and one or two feet of line. Wrap a rubber band around this coil using a slip knot, and hook the bight of the rubber band into the life-line gate hook. This gives a good indication of when a fish strikes. It also tends to set the lure better.

If one is running fast downwind, it may be desirable to slow down slightly to prevent the speed from tearing the lure out of the fishes mouth. In any event, it is easier to land the fish if one allows the surgical tubing to do its job and fight the fish until it is near exhaustion. It then becomes easier to gaff the fish. Even then, don’t try to pull a large fish out of the water with the lure alone. Unless it is dead, a fish will begin struggling mightily when its head comes out of the water, and it may shake lose. Instead, work the fish close to the hull and gaff it using a short gaff.

J.R. Williams is an airline pilot who lives in Carson City, Nev., who has voyaged extensively in the central Pacific.

By Ocean Navigator

Home » Blog » Sail » Sailboat fishing: expert tips on fishing from a sailboat

Sailboat fishing: expert tips on fishing from a sailboat

By Author Guest Post

Posted on Last updated: November 20, 2023

Many sailors don’t realize that sailboat fishing is really quite simple and can be a sustainable (and delicious!) way to supplement their diets.

This article explains how to fish from your sailboat (and dingy) and is an edited extract from The Hunter & The Gatherer, a cookbook and provisioning guide by Catherine Lawson and David Bristow.

Catherine and David are long-time, liveaboard sailors and are currently cruising with their 10-year-old daughter on their 40ft cat, Wild One . 

If the idea of harvesting your own seafood appeals to you, we recommend checking out their book The Hunter & The Gatherer, published by Exploring Eden Media . For every copy sold, one tree is planted! Check it out or order your copy here .

If you needed any more motivation to give sailboat fishing a try, Catherine and David have included a kickass recipe for Fijian Queenfish Kokoda (a conconut, lime, and chile infused ceviche) at the end of this post.

Waterborne is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Fishing from the back of your sailboat or yacht

Our boat Wild One really pulls its weight when we sail, and it’s a rare (or rough) day on the water when we don’t have at least one hand line out.

We regularly (fingers crossed) catch all kinds of tuna and mackerel, giant trevally, and maybe a mahi mahi (dolphinfish or dorado) or a wahoo this way.

I tend to keep the lines out longer than Catherine, but as long as we wind them in before sunset, we can usually avoid snaring sharks and the delicate mission of getting them off the line without harm.

Fishing tackle and equipment

On long, leisurely sails, we’ll often detour across sandy shoals or pinnacles where large pelagics (and the seabirds that give them away) tend to hunt.

We use large hand lines secured to the stern rails with bungy loops to take the shock load when a large pelagic bites down. Ours are wrapped with overpowered 350-500 pound mono to prevent big fish from snapping the lines.

I add a heavy-duty swivel, and trolling lures are crimped on for strength and to make the system more streamlined. I never tie knots, and we rarely lose a fish and never a lure (although they do get retired after too many bites).

My favorite lures are Halco’s deep diving, red-and-white ‘Qantas’ lures, but when big pelagics are around, I swap the standard treble hooks out for large singles.

There are a few reasons I choose hand lines over boat rods.

1. Hand lines are dirt cheap and available everywhere (we often beach comb them off the high tide mark).

2. They have no moving parts to break and are very quick to wind in when retrieving a catch, although you do need a bit of strength to wrangle in big fish.

Being on a catamaran, we can run out two lines without them fouling each other. But we do run them at different distances (one 25 meters, the other 40 meters) and with lures that swim at different depths.

Catching fish by boat is by no means a certainty, but it increases our chances of reaching an anchorage with protein ready to cook.

Dispatching your fish

I can’t stress enough how important it is to kill your catch swiftly and humanely, even when underway.

If the sailing conditions become too hectic to deal with a potential catch, I feel it’s better to pull the lines in rather than catch a fish that I can’t treat properly and respectfully.

There are lots of ways to bring large pelagics on board when underway, but here’s what I do aboard Wild One .

Once gaffed and safely on board, dispatch your catch humanely and swiftly by spiking its brain.

The brain is located in the middle of the fish’s head, just behind the eye, and you will know when you’ve hit it because your fish will spasm briefly, its fins will flare for a moment, and then the fish will then go limp.

Cleaning and fileting

To bleed the fish, lay it flat and cut behind the gills with your knife facing toward the fish’s head.

Slice from top to bottom until you see blood flow, then repeat on the other side.

Submerge or rinse the fish well in salt water, or if conditions permit, drag it by its tail for a minute or two to flush and clean it ready for filleting.

Slice off your fillets (don’t wet the fish again if you can help it), and place them in a large colander over a bowl (covered with a beeswax wrap or similar) to drain and rest in the fridge.

This resting helps drain the lactic acid that builds up in large, fighting pelagic fish. I usually drain fillets overnight, and whatever doesn’t get eaten while it’s fresh is bagged, labeled, and frozen.

Some sailors abhor the idea of sending fresh fish to the freezer, but when we’re cruising, especially in remote sailing grounds, fish provide an essential source of protein, and nothing is wasted.

Those species that are prolific and sustainably caught, prepared with respect, and fully utilized to reduce wastage, can help to feed you and your family when stores are a distant memory, and on all those days when the fish aren’t biting.

Shore Fishing

Boat life can get busy, but when I do have some downtime, you’ll find me holding the end of a rod while nursing something cold at day’s end.

When we jump into the dinghy to explore a new anchorage or to head ashore, I’ll always run a few lines out in the hope of snaring a fish before we hit the beach. If we have to use our fuel, we may as well turn every dinghy run into a fishing expedition.

When trolling in the tender along reefs, sand troughs, or mangrove-fringed shorelines, I use a scaled-down version of the hand reels on board or cast an overhead bait caster rod with smaller hard body lures or soft plastics.

This rod combo is extremely accurate when trying to land a lure into a tight location, or when chasing those ever-elusive barramundis, mangrove jack, and delicious varieties of cod.

These fighters demand patience and are all excellent eating, but if things don’t go your way, the mangroves are also great places to gather a feed of oysters at low tide.

In northern Australia, queenfish and trevally are regularly caught while dinghy trolling over sandbars, off river mouths, over inshore reefs, and sometimes by rod while standing on a beach with a beer.

Spearing reef fish

We spend a lot of time cruising in the tropics where coral reefs, and the trout, snapper, jobfish, and trevally they nurture, are generally abundant.

Anytime we can get in the water is an adventure, and while we are exploring a new reef, spearfishing provides a selective way to get dinner on board.

With a long enough breath-hold and plenty of patience, spearfishing can provide us with a meal in a manner that’s sustainable and respectful to the reefs.

This is really what got me into spearfishing because I can consciously choose a fish that is of suitable size and abundant in the places we drop anchor without harming any other fish in the process.

It’s also a great skill to learn, provides an excellent workout, and is one of the most authentic ways to take a fish.

I use a Rob Allen 1200 Sniper rail gun with dual bands and a 7mm carbon steel shaft. I find that the shaft stays true and is more accurate than other guns I’ve owned.

EDITOR’s Note: Some reef fish contain a toxin that causes a food-borne illness known as Ciguatera . It causes gastrointestinal and neurological symptoms and in very rare cases can be fatal. For this reason, many cruisers avoid eating reef fish altogether.

When you have to buy fish

Sometimes the fish just aren’t biting, and the reef fish are too skittish and too small to be speared. When we face a dry spell, we revert to our vegetarian ways, tucking into tempeh, beans, eggs, and lentils.

There’s always the option of buying fish as we go, from passing fishermen who visit our anchorages or in local markets where the daily catch comes with few food miles.

But bigger centers and supermarkets challenge conscious consumers who want to know just how sustainable their dinner really is. It can be difficult (and sometimes impossible) to know where and how a fish has been caught and whether a particular species is abundant in the location where it was taken.

These questions matter. 85% of global fish stocks are fully or over-exploited, depleted, or in recovery from exploitation . Thanks to our collective, growing hunger for seafood, all ocean ecosystems, including by-catch populations, are in peril.

The bulk of the guilt can be levied at large-scale fishing operations – trawlers, longliners, and gillnetters. But even at local levels, the stripping of coral reefs and continuing use of dynamite (blast) fishing has a devastating, irreversible impact.

When a blast went off in eastern Indonesia’s Kei Islands in late 2022, we thought our rigging had snapped and the mast was coming down.

We rushed out on deck, puzzled and perplexed, only to see a boatload of fishermen working with hand nets to scoop up fish. This desperate means to a meal is short-sighted at best, and the heartbreaking destruction of the reef and its minute and complex ecosystems will haunt these island populations for decades to come.

Fish farms or ‘sea ranches’ don’t always provide a better alternative and can be incredibly wasteful. Take, for example, Australia’s southern bluefin tuna.

This critically endangered species is caught from the wild and fattened in feedlots off the South Australian coast, primarily for export to foreign markets.

The Australian Marine Conservation Society (AMCS) reports that it takes up to 12 kilograms of wild-caught fish to grow one kilogram of southern bluefin tuna .

The maths just doesn’t add up, and wild-caught fish stocks used as tuna food are jeopardized further by the release of pollution from aquaculture farms back into the sea via uneaten fishmeal, antibiotics, and concentrated fish waste .

The good news is that you can wade through the confusion by downloading the Sustainable Seafood Guide app or check your choices at goodfish.org.au . In the USA, download the Seafood Watch Consumer Guide for a list of best buys wherever you live.

Recipe from The Hunter & The Gatherer

Queenfish kokoda.

Love it or hate it, raw fish gets a lot of people excited. When you land a beautiful fish (and it doesn’t have to be tuna), or someone gifts you a couple of fresh fillets after a day at sea, ceviche is a tasty, no-fuss way to get any meal started.

This Fijian-style ceviche, known as kokoda, balances out the raw fish perfectly and packs it with flavor.

To add crunch (and stretch the dish), stir through chopped tomato, cucumber, and fresh capsicum before serving, and dish it up in coconut shells, clams or, lettuce cups. Otherwise, savor it in its virgin state, slowly.

Ingredients

• 500g (1lb) queenfish (or any firm white fish)
• 1/4 tsp sea salt
• 2 finely chopped spring onions (scallion)(or 1/2 red onion or 4-5 shallots)
• 1/3 cup finely chopped coriander (cilantro) and mint
• 1 fresh red chili, finely chopped(or 1 tsp dried crushed chili)
• 1/3 cup coconut milk
• cracked black pepper
• extra fresh coriander sprigs to serve
• Optional: add 1 roughly chopped tomato, 1 small cucumber (diced), and ½ small capsicum (bell pepper), chopped

Instructions

• Trim and rinse the fish, pat dry, and cut into small cubes.
• Place in a mixing bowl and squeeze over 1 ½ limes.
• Season with salt, and toss to combine.
• Refrigerate for 2-3 hours until the fish turns opaque.
• When ready to eat, drain the fish, add the spring onion, chopped herbs, chilli, coconut milk, a generous pinch of black pepper, and any extra vegetables, and stir well.
• Serve with lime wedges and extra coriander sprigs.

Safety note: Citrus juice does not kill bacteria or parasites that may be in the fish. Always choose either commercially-frozen fish or high-quality sushi-grade fresh fish for ceviche. Avoid cod, swordfish, monkfish, and all freshwater fish as they are highly parasitic. When in doubt ask an experienced local angler or fisherman.

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10 Top Sailboat Fishing Tips for Offshore Sailors

As an offshore sailor and a saltwater angler, sailboat fishing is my passion. For any sailor on a long offshore passage, the ability to pull a few protein packed, omega 3 rich fish from the sea is a rather useful skill. So here I'll ignore the fishing-for-sport element and concentrate instead on fishing-for-food.

The other good news is that the fishing gear required is inexpensive - just a simple trolling line and a few lures.

In fact, the market value of your first decent-sized fish is likely to exceed your investment in the fishing equipment used to catch it - not that you'll want to sell it, of course. You'll want to eat it and catch more, which presumably is why you're here.

So if it's that easy, why do some yachtsmen tell you that sailboat fishing is a waste of time?

Well, it's because they haven't read the small print. So here's the small print...

Sailboat Fishing Tip #1 ~ Use a Snubber

First, let's think about what happens if you don't use a snubber on your offshore trolling handline . So, you're sailing along nicely when a tuna hits your lure. Instantly realising he's made a serious error of judgement, the tuna sets off lickety split in the other direction. Bang! Probably a broken line and no lure - definitely no tuna!

But with a snubber there's no bang, just a satisfying booiiing as it does its thing, taking all the shock load out of the tuna's instinctive reaction and alerting your crew to the tug of war to come. A vital part of any trolling handline, is the snubber.

It's made up from a length of bungee cord - essentially a large elastic band between the handline and the boat. Alternatively, if you've got one handy, an old bicycle tyre inner tube will do the job just fine.

The safety line, made up from a length of 8mm nylon line (or similar) is attached to a cleat or some other strong-point on the boat. Make sure the loop in it is long enough for the snubber to fully extend, but not so long that the snubber can be stressed beyond its yield point.

Sailboat Fishing Tip #2 ~ Be Invisible

Not you or your boat, just the business end of your handline.

Up until quite recently I used a 5m (16ft) long nylon monofilament leader at the end of my trolling line, and very happy with it I was too.

After all, it was cheap and seemed to work.

Then I discovered fluorocarbon fishing line , a sort of hi-tech monofilament line.

It's thinner, stronger than mono, and best of all it's invisible!

Underwater that is, a trick resulting from fluorocarbon line having almost the same refractive index as water.

I'm absolutely, 100 percent, hand-on-heart sure that it's brought more good fish to Alacazam's galley than would otherwise have been the case.

Sailboat Fishing Tip #3 ~ The Right Type of Lure

Most of the fish that you're likely to catch will be looking upwards, hoping to spot their prey silhouetted against the sunlit surface. So this is where your lure should be, close to the surface, and it's no bad thing if it leaps out now and again like a flying fish in escape mode.

A cheap and cheerful Bulb Head Squid should get results here, but a slightly more expensive skirted trolling lure may well get better results, particularly if it leaves astern a fish-attracting bubble train, as it pops and fizzes down the face of a following sea.

But what about when you're sailing on the wind and a following sea is but the stuff of dreams? Here a lure that leaps out of the sea will not be so effective, the wave train and the motion of the boat causing it to crash through wave crests, rather than slaloming down the front face of the waves. You need a lure that will get down deeper, below all the unpleasantness on the surface.

There are several ways of achieving this. One is to rig a trolling weight on your main line - not on the leader - to take the same lure down deeper.

If that still doesn't work, you could replace the trolling weight with a planer - and, if your hull speed is not more than 3 knots or so you could replace the lure with a stainless steel trolling spoon. These lures are particularly robust and should have a place in all sailboater's fishing kits

Or you could forget about weights and planers altogether and use a deep diving plug.

Yup, they are more pricey but they really do what it says on the box - 6 knots with the right deep-diver (like the Rapala X-Rap Magnum shown here) will get you down 15 to 30 feet.

These deep-diving trolling plugs are characterised by the long, broad beak at the head of the lure. The greater its surface area, and the closer it's angled to the horizontal the deeper it will dive.

In the other extreme where the wind is light, the sea almost flat and the boat just ambling slowly along, a topwater lure - like the Williamson 'Jet Popper' - is well worth a try.

Sailboat Fishing Tip #4 ~ Use a Bird Teaser

But only if you're off the wind and using a skirted lure of the type that swims along close to the surface. So what's a bird teaser ? It's a decoy lure which you should attach at the end of your trolling line and ahead of your leader. The leader should be shorter now, around 3m (10ft) or so.

The bird is buoyant and skips smartly along astern, splashing noisily around ahead of the lure. The little winglets on either side of it shoot out an arc of spray either side increasing the area of disturbance on the surface.

To really maximise the effect of one of these, rig it ahead of a daisy chain like the Boone Bird/Daisy Chain Rig shown here.

Any predator within, er, earshot, will wonder what all the fuss is about, and is likely to amble over and take a look. What he'll see is an unsuspecting prey - your lure - in hot pursuit of a shoal of baitfish. The rest, as they say, will soon be history.

Sailboat Fishing Tip #5 ~ Double Your Chances!

Are you serious about putting together a robust handline for offshore trolling?

Do you want to know exactly what to buy, where to buy it online and how much to pay for it?

If so, take a look at  Assembling Your Offshore Trolling Handline .

An easy way to do this is to play the numbers game. Use two trolling lines, one from each quarter.

To reduce the risk of them tangling together (note my use of the word reduce, not avoid), make the windward one shorter than the leeward one. Your boat's leeway will help keep them apart - more so if you clip the leeward one to a higher point such as the backstay, or the stern gantry if you've got one.

If you've only got one bird, use it on the shorter of the two trolling lines. Multihull owners could easily find somewhere to add a couple more handlines to help feed the multitudinous crew.

Sailboat Fishing Tip #6 ~ Killing It Kindly

It's often said in sailboat fishing circles, that to avoid making a crimson mess in your cockpit, you should leave your hooked fish attached and tow it astern until it drowns. The two obvious reasons for not doing this are:

• It's unnecessarily cruel - the fish deserves better than this
• If the fish is too large for your culinary requirements, you should release it unharmed and return the beast from whence it came
• A shark may get to it before you do

And there's another reason. When the fish is fighting for its life, lactic acid accumulates in the fish's muscles - it's flesh - which will taint the taste. The longer and harder it has to fight, the greater the accumulation will be, and the greater the taste will be affected.

My advice? Get it aboard as soon as you can - using a gaff - and kill it quickly and humanely. Not by beating it to death with a heavy blunt instrument - that will end in tears, most probably yours. Just pour some strong alcohol down its gills. Not your finest malt of course - a splash of the rot-gut firewater you give only to your most persistent guests will be fine. This will cause brain death very quickly and it will leave this world in a spirit of great contentment.

Sailboat Fishing Tip #7 ~ Don't Miss the Point!

Check the point before each use and touch it up with a Hook File as necessary.

The technique is to stroke the file towards the bend of the hook - not towards the point. Use the file on the two flats to ensure that the flats converge in a razor edge and a sharp point. After a few strokes, try the following thumbnail test...

Drag the point of the hook lightly over your thumbnail. If it tends to dig in, leaving a white scratch, it's sharp. If it doesn't, it isn't.

Do it correctly and it'll soon be 'up to scratch'!

Sailboat Fishing Tip #8 ~ Be Safe!

• It's not just shark that have an impressive set of dental equipment. Barracuda do too, and wahoo have smaller but razor-sharp teeth that can do you serious damage;
• Don't try to unhook a large fish when it's leaping about the cockpit in a most unruly fashion. Wait until it calms down - a dark wet cloth placed over it may help. Another tip that seems to calm the fish, is to place it on the cockpit sole where its tail isn't touching anything. I've no idea why this works - maybe it tickles...
• Always, but always, wear heavy protective gloves when hauling in a fish by hand, and take care not to step in any coils of line that you've recovered;
• Always have a sharp knife to hand, just in case you need to cut yourself free. If that perilous situation arises, you won't have time to go looking for one!
• With all the action going on at the stern, don't neglect your legal obligation to keep a good lookout at all times.

Sailboat Fishing Tip #9 ~ Making the Right Connections

Forget about even the best fishing knots in lines of the diameters we're talking about here - you'd never be able to pull them up tight. Crimped connections to hooks and swivels are your only option.

Use only top quality hooks and swivels by well-known manufacturers. Forged bronzed mild-steel hooks and ball-bearing swivels are what you need.

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Handline Fishing Guide: Tips, Techniques, Gear & More

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Handline fishing is a simple but highly effective way of catching a wide variety of fish. While it’s often overlooked by rod and reel fishermen, fishing with a hand line enables you to catch the same fish with an absolute minimum amount of gear.

This minimalism makes handlining a great option for traveling, backcountry trips, or any time you need to pack light. All you need to get started is a decent length of line, hooks, sinkers, and some form of hand reel.

Due to the low cost of materials, and the potential for fantastic results, handline fishing is one of the best ways to introduce first-timers and kids to fishing. It also provides a real tactile feeling as you fight the fish – making the fight far more intense.

What is Handline Fishing?

Handline fishing – also called handlining – is a method of fishing using a simple handheld line with one or more baited hooks or lures attached to the end of the line. The line is often spooled around a round or oval-shaped object like a large diameter wood branch or a hand reel (sometimes called Cuban yo-yo’s). When a fish takes your bait or lure, you simply haul it in by hand!

Handlines can be used to catch a variety of fish – in both fresh and saltwater. They work well for shore, jetty, as well as boat fishing, and are versatile enough to use with different techniques.

In saltwater, hand lines are often used to catch squid and bottom-feeding fish, although they can also be used to target larger pelagic fish. Using heavy-duty handlines to catch larger pelagics like tuna, kingfish, dorado , and mackerel on the surface can be one of the most exhilarating ways to land these offshore bruisers!

In freshwater, hand lines are used to catch everything from panfish to walleye to catfish. Trolling, drifting, and casting are all viable options when fishing with a handline, while jigging is especially popular.

Wherever you prefer to fish, fishing with a handline will provide much greater sensitivity than traditional rod and reel fishing. You’ll be able to feel the slightest nibble on the end of your line, which translates into more successful hookups and more fish in your boat or fishing cooler .

Handline Fishing Techniques

Handline fishing techniques vary widely depending on your target species and location.

Both braid and heavy mono can be used to rig a handline, and circle or J-hooks work well for most applications. Sinkers are used with most handlines, as they’re generally more popular for bottom fishing that surface fishing. Adding more weight will also allow you to cast further.

When you set up your hand reel, wrap a layer of electrical tape around the hand reel spool before you spool your line onto it. This will help keep your line from sliding around on the reel. Leaders are also used with most handlines, as they’ll help you avoid tangles and excess twisting of your mainline.

Casting a handline is pretty straightforward, but if you’ve never done it before it’ll require a little practice.

For maximum casting distance, you’ll want to use a swinging lasso-style cast. Let out a couple of feet of line, making sure your leader and swivel are completely off the hand reel. Next, grab the line in your dominant hand about 6 inches from your lure or bait and swing your hook in a circle to build up some momentum. Keep your other thumb on the mainline as you do this to prevent any line from coming loose.

As you release your lure, use your other hand to face your hand reel in the same direction as your line. This will allow the line to come off the spool freely.

If you want to perform a shorter cast, you can follow a similar process but simply toss your lure in the water rather than lassoing-launching it.

Check out this in-depth video for a hands-on look at casting with a hand reel.

Jigging with a handline is one of the most effective techniques using this simple fishing setup. Firstly, you’ll want to make sure you use enough weight to get your line down to the right depth. Luckily, the increased sensitivity of a handline means you’ll be able to feel when your weight has touched the bottom.

Then, just as you would with a rod and reel, you’ll want to give several firm jerks on the line, as you slowly reel in the line. The increased sensitivity of a handline also means you’ll be able to detect subtle nibbles and bites that might go unnoticed with a normal rod, which should increase your hookup ratio.

Reeling in Fish

When you’ve got a fish on the end of your line, you’ll need to fight it a little differently than you would with a typical rod and reel. This is particularly true when you’ve hooked a larger fish.

Hand reels don’t provide much give, so you’ll need to be cautious not to let a fish snap your line. This can make landing a larger fish with a handline challenging, but highly rewarding. As rods provide a certain level of flex, and reels provide drag, you’ll need to create similar effects using just your hand reel.

To prevent line breaking, you can increase drag on the line by putting pressure on the inside of the hand reel spool with your hand. You can also hold the hand reel against your body, which will act like a makeshift drag system. If a fish is running hard, you can also let your hand reel free spool by facing the reel in the same direction as your line.

Handline Fishing Gear

One of the great things about handline fishing is how little gear you need to start catching fish. All you need to get started is a hook, line, and some form of compact hand reel. This makes it great for fishing on the go, as well as survival fishing scenarios.

If you’re looking to catch bait like pinfish , croakers, or houndfish , then a handline rigged up with a sabiki rig can be highly effective.

A word about gloves:  Many newcomers to handline fishing assume they’ll need a pair of heavy-duty gloves to avoid thrashing their hands. In my experience, this is unnecessary for regular handline fishing. Yes, you can use gloves if you like, but once you get used to handling you’ll be able to manipulate your line and hand reel without the need for gloves. Heavy-duty gloves also dampen the tactile feel you get from handling, negating one of its greatest advantages.

If you’re planning on using a handline to go after larger offshore species (yes people do this!), then you’ll need a more heavy-duty setup. As mentioned previously, handlines don’t have much give to them, which means you’ll need to add some form of shock absorber to your line when you’re trolling for large species. If a tuna, dorado, or other large species snatches your hook, they have enough strength to snap your line plus they’ll sense the drag right away and spit out your bait!

Shock absorbers used for handling are referred to as snubbers and are usually made from a length of strong bungee cord attached between the handline and your boat. Check out the BNR Tackle Alabacore Handline for a length of tuna handline with a built-in snubber.

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What Is Handline Fishing? Everything You Need To Know

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One of the most basic but challenging ways to catch fish is with a handline. While fishing with a conventional rod and reel set up, drag, gearing in the reel, and rod action are all working to help you tire out the fish and get it on board. Handlining has none of those advantages and it gives you the ability to feel the raw power of these incredible sportfish.

What is Handline Fishing?

In its simplest form handlining is fishing by hand using only line, bait, and hooks to help you catch fish. Other than noodling or spearfishing, this is one of the most basic and traditional styles of fishing that has been used around the world. The low tech tackle used for handling makes traveling with your gear easy while still allowing anglers to catch almost everything normally caught with a rod and reel.

Advantages of Handline Fishing

Handlining uses simple tackle which makes it cheap and easy to maintain or fix. Similarly, because the gear is so basic the upfront cost is significantly less. A less obvious advantage is that handlining can be done while traveling to and from fishing spots without slowing down or letting out miles of line.

With a fishing rod, the line is held higher making trolling lures skip and dive between waves which is made worse with a bending rod that flings the lure around even more. Trolling the line in hand lets lures skip along the surface more easily because of the lower line angle and lack of spring in the line.

With conventional trolling when a fish bites and starts taking out line the captain usually slows the boat down or stops altogether, but with a handline that’s not necessary. Offshore handline setups usually use 200-300 lb test fishing line which means most fish will not break off. This means that you can still fight and land fish by hand without slowing down which means only one person needs to watch the line.

What Can I Catch While Handlining?

Handline gear can be set up to catch a surprisingly large variety of fish from sunfish at the lake to tuna on the rigs. Handlining gear can be adjusted just like conventional tackle where heavier and lighter tackle is used depending on the target species. While mahi mahi, snapper, and tuna are all attainable, a grander marlin is probably out of the question. Without the advantages that rods and reels offer, what is possible is limited by skill and the strength of your tackle. Smaller marlin might be manageable but catching exceptionally large fish that outweigh the capabilities of your tackle will likely get away.

Where is Handline Fishing Popular?

Fishing with a handline is still popular in many countries around the world thanks to its simplicity and low entry cost. While I have personally seen handlining in use from Costa Rica to Hong Kong, you can get in on the action with one of our fishing trips in St. Barts .

Joey Butrus

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- Exploring the Underwater World

Hand Line Fishing- A Connection to Nature and Skill

11/18/2023 by Saad Ahmed Leave a Comment

Hand line fishing relies on your hands, skill, and a deep connection to the water. Fishermen use their instincts and expertise to catch big fish without modern equipment. Hand-line fishing requires patience, finesse, and a unique understanding of fish behavior, making it an enticing challenge for those seeking a different approach to fishing. If you’re ready to embrace this tradition or want to elevate your fishing game with a new test of skill, hand-line fishing might be your next great adventure.

Hand Line Fishing- A Beginner’s Guide

Hand line fishing is a traditional and simple way to fish. It’s great for beginners and gives a direct connection between you and the fish. You only need a line, hook , sinker, and your hands. It requires control and finesse as you feel the fish pulling on the line. This method encourages a deeper understanding and appreciation for fishing.

Hand-line fishing is versatile. You can do it from shore or a boat, in saltwater or freshwater. It’s good for beginners to learn basic fishing skills and feel connected to nature. Mastering this technique can make you feel accomplished as you improve your instincts and skills.

What is Hand Line Fishing?

Handline fishing, also called handlining, is an old way of fishing using a basic fishing line held in the hands to catch fish. This traditional form of fishing needs minimal equipment, making it an easy and sustainable way to fish. Unlike modern methods with reels and rods, handlining depends on the fisherman’s talent and skill to control the line and lure underwater.

Handline fishing is different because it creates a close connection between the angler and the fish. Anglers can feel the fish moving through the line and need to rely on their senses to notice when the fish bite and quickly react. This hands-on method makes the sport feel more real and helps anglers connect with nature. Handlining also allows for better movement in small or unstable spaces, which is good for fishing from small boats or kayaks.

How to Do Hand Line Fishing?

Throughout the ages, hand-line fishing has remained a widely embraced and efficient method for catching fish. Requiring minimal equipment, it can be practiced from various locations such as the shore, a boat, or even a bridge. To start hand line fishing, you’ll need a basic setup consisting of a fishing line, hook, sinker, and bait. The key to success lies in mastering the art of casting and reeling in your catch using just your hands. Once you’ve located a promising spot with good water depth and plenty of underwater structure, it’s time to drop your baited hook into the water and wait for the fish to bite.

As an angler using this traditional method, understanding the movement and behavior of fish becomes crucial. By paying close attention to subtle tugs or movements on the line, you’ll be able to detect when a fish has taken interest in your bait. 

Handlining offers an intimate connection between the angler and their prey, as there are no rods or reels to intervene in this battle of strength between man and fish. With focus and patience, anyone can master the art of handlining and experience the thrill of landing that prized catch with nothing but their own hands.

The Benefits of Hand Line Fishing

Hand line fishing, often overlooked in favor of traditional rod and reel methods, offers a slew of unique benefits that are worth exploring. Firstly, handlining provides a more intimate connection between the angler and the fish, as it requires hands-on engagement with the catch from start to finish. This method also allows for more precise control over bait presentation and retrieval speed, increasing the likelihood of enticing a strike. Furthermore, this technique promotes a heightened sense of awareness and responsiveness to the surrounding marine environment, as anglers must rely on their instincts and tactile feedback to detect bites and successfully land their catch.

Moreover, handlining is an excellent option for those seeking a simpler yet equally rewarding angling experience. Without the complexity of conventional fishing gear, this method offers portability and convenience without sacrificing the excitement of hooking into an aggressive fish. Additionally, handlining can be practiced in various environments, including off-piers, rocky shorelines, or boats – making it an adaptable technique suitable for different aquatic landscapes. In essence, by embracing hand-line fishing techniques, anglers can unlock a world of immersive experiences that connect them more intimately with nature while reaping its bountiful rewards.

The Best Setup for Hand Line Fishing

Hand line fishing is a traditional and simple way to fish. To start, get a strong and reliable hand line reel made of good materials like stainless steel or aluminum. It should work smoothly and be easy to hold for long periods. Use a good monofilament or braided fishing line that is strong enough for big fish but flexible enough for different places.

To improve your hand line fishing:

• Choose strong and sharp hooks that match your target fish.
• Attach them securely to the line at the right distance from the sinker.
• Use fresh bait to attract more fish, and try different types based on local advice or research.
• Use sinkers that are the right size based on water depth and current conditions to keep control and attract fish.

Choosing the Right Location

Choosing the right spot for hand line fishing is important for a good time. It’s key to know if there are fish in the area and to understand the water conditions like depth and temperature. Research and local knowledge can help find the best spots for catching lots of fish.

When selecting a location for handlining, it’s crucial to consider accessibility. Opting for a spot with easy access and ample room for casting and maneuvering can enhance the fishing experience. Additionally, taking into account factors such as safety, amenities, and regulations at each site can contribute to a successful fishing trip. Environmental impact is also important to ponder. Choosing locations that support marine life not only preserves nature but also enriches the fishing adventure.

Tips for Successful Hand Line Fishing

Hand line fishing is an age-old technique that offers a primal and deeply satisfying connection to the water. To achieve success in hand line fishing, it’s crucial to choose the right location. Look for areas with underwater structures, such as reefs, rocks, and drop-offs, as these are prime spots for fish congregations. Additionally, paying attention to the tide and current can significantly impact your success. Understanding how these factors influence fish behavior will help you increase your catch rate.

Another essential tip for successful handlining is to use high-quality equipment. Invest in a durable hand-line reel with a smooth drag and a comfortable grip. Remember to match your tackle to the type of fish you’re targeting – lighter gear for small species like panfish and heavier gear for larger game fish. Lastly, be patient and observant; mastering the art of feeling subtle bites and understanding when to set the hook takes time but is crucial for successful hand-line fishing.

Safety Precautions to Consider

Using protective gear.

When engaging in hand line fishing, it’s crucial to prioritize safety precautions to ensure a smooth and secure fishing experience. One fundamental aspect to consider is the use of protective gear, such as gloves, to shield your hands from potential injury when handling the fishing line. Additionally, being mindful of your surroundings and keeping a safe distance from others while casting or reeling can prevent accidents and injuries.

Understanding the Water Conditions

Another essential safety measure is understanding the water conditions and being prepared for unexpected changes in weather. It’s vital to stay informed about currents, tides, and any potential hazards in the area where you’re fishing. Moreover, having proper knowledge of emergency procedures and carrying a first aid kit can help mitigate any unforeseen circumstances that may arise during hand-line fishing adventures. 

Wearing PFD

When hand-line fishing, it’s important to wear the right gear for safety. It includes wearing a personal flotation device (PFD) or life jacket to stay afloat if something goes wrong. It’s important to choose footwear with excellent grip to avoid sliding on wet surfaces.

Maintaining Proper Distance

Another crucial aspect is maintaining proper distance from other anglers or boats in crowded fishing spots. This helps prevent entanglement of lines and reduces the chances of collisions or accidents. Additionally, being aware of your surroundings and avoiding areas with strong currents, submerged rocks, or dangerous wildlife can greatly contribute to a safe fishing experience.

By prioritizing safety precautions, anglers can enjoy their hand-line fishing pursuits with peace of mind while minimizing risks and ensuring a safe outing for themselves and fellow enthusiasts.

Cleaning and Maintaining Your Gear

Proper care and upkeep of your hand line fishing equipment is vital for its durability and top-notch functionality. It’s imperative to thoroughly rinse all gear with fresh water after each use to eliminate any sea salt, sand, or debris that may lead to corrosion or harm. The reel and line require special focus, as they are especially prone to wear and tear.

Additionally, regular maintenance of your hand line fishing gear includes checking for any signs of rust, fraying, or weak spots in the line. Inspect the hooks, swivels, and leaders for any damage or dullness that might affect their effectiveness. Taking the time to clean and inspect your gear not only extends its lifespan but also ensures you’re ready for a successful fishing adventure every time.

Remember that proper storage is just as important as cleaning. Keep your gear in a dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent deterioration. By incorporating these simple yet vital practices into your routine, you can enjoy many more fruitful hand-line fishing trips while taking excellent care of your valuable equipment.

Hand-line fishing connects people to nature and the traditional way of fishing. It allows anglers to rely on their skills and instincts instead of complex gear. Handlining promotes resourcefulness, patience, and the ability to feel the water and anticipate fish movements without relying on technology. 

It also provides a meditative escape from modern life, fostering a deeper appreciation for the environment and a sense of environmental responsibility. Ultimately, choosing hand line fishing as a preferred method encourages a deeper connection to nature. Not only enjoy a more pure and authentic experience but also make a small yet impactful contribution towards sustainable angling practices.

Q. What kind of fish can be caught using hand-line fishing?

A. Handlining is a great way to catch many different fish, including snapper and grouper.

2. Can handlining be done in freshwater?

A. Handlining can be done in both saltwater and freshwater environments, depending on the type of fish being targeted.

Q. How is handlining different from traditional rod and reel fishing?

 A. Handlining involves holding the fishing line directly in the hands, providing a more direct connection to the fish compared to using a rod and reel.

Q. Are there specific techniques for handlining that need to be learned?

 A. There are specialized techniques for handlining, such as controlling the tension on the line and setting the hook without the use of a rod.

Q. What type of bait or lures are commonly used for handlining?

 A. Common baits used for handlining include live bait such as shrimp or squid, as well as artificial lures designed for this technique.

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How To Catch Walleye: Mastering The Art Of Handlining

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In pursuit of a tasty native fish that thrives in snag-infested waters, Great Lakes anglers created a rod-free form of trolling for dinner.

April and May are prime months for employing the distinctive handline technique for catching Detroit River ­walleye. (Photo: Per Verdonk)

The Detroit River flows 28 miles from Lake St. Clair to Lake Erie, supplying about 90% of the water in the smallest Great Lake. The relatively narrow river (half-mile wide on average), with its deep trough and powerful current, serves as the conduit for the outflow from the upper Great Lakes that attracts pre-spawn walleye by the millions each spring. Motor City anglers learned long ago there's nothing conventional about hooking these popular gamefish that some folks consider the inland sea's best-tasting catch.

Each spring, in boats large and small, fishermen flock to the waterway separating Ontario and Michigan, dodging oceangoing freighters and battling changing currents to drop baits into the structure 35 to 50 feet below. Their offerings must negotiate an underwater gauntlet of humps, caves, and more than a few motor vehicles that have been deep-sixed over the decades. Old-time anglers claim that migrating walleye dodge the river's current by holding deep, often hiding behind abandoned railroad boxcars, cars, and trucks ditched in the depths, as well as boulders and scour-holes. As counterintuitive as it seems, walleye anglers actually seek out such snag-infested waters to lure their quarry into a strike.

How We Got Here

More than a century ago, the nagging snagging problem prompted some resourceful anglers to adopt a more hands-on approach. Literally. They realized the drop-offs, snags, and other walleye-holding structures hindered traditional trolling methods with conventional rods, reels, and lines, so they improvised. The result has become known as "handlining," a tactic developed by Detroit-area anglers targeting walleyes that hug the bottom as they negotiate the flow.

"In the Detroit River in the spring, you'll see more boats sprouting handline reels than traditional fishing rods by two to one," says veteran walleye angler and handline advocate Gary "Bo" Bowman of Westland, Michigan. "When the water's muddy and moving, handlining is hands-down the most productive method for catching walleye."

Pioneers of the fishing method pirated parts from hand-cranked Victrola phonograph players to assemble spring-loaded reels capable of handling the weights and wire line the slow-trolling technique required. These anglers clamped the reels on the gunwales of their fishing boats, paying out the cable, working the baits by hand, and hoisting in their catch hand over fist.

Since those early days, the specialized tackle and technique have morphed into a rod-free method now practiced by spring walleye anglers in the larger river systems throughout the Upper Midwest. But nowhere is handlining as common as on the river that drains lakes Huron and St. Clair, and no time more often than the months of March through May.

Warning: Veteran handliners, some of whom have missing digits to prove their point, warn new handliners against succumbing to the temptation to wrap wire around their fingers or hands while fishing. They also recommend wearing gloves or rubber or leather guards on the fingers of their fishing hands to absorb the wear and tear that even the plastic-coated cable can impart to unprotected fingers.

Keep It Reel

The heart of the handline system is the single-action level-wind reel design with a spring-loaded spool built to hold — and automatically retrieve — at least 200 feet of 60-pound test that is braided and coated seven-strand wire. The reel is mounted amidships on the gunwale of the boat, usually in pairs, one to a side. The reels come with mounting hardware to clamp them to the gunwale or handrail, drop into a rod holder base, or slip into a track affixed atop the gunwale. This allows the reels to be removed when the technique isn't being used.

At one time, there were several manufacturers offering handline reels, all based in Michigan. Today the market is dominated by two: the Kachman model made by Riviera Trolling Systems of Port Austin, and the A&S model made by A&S Manufacturing in Ecorse.

The Kachman reel, made from Lexan and stainless steel, is 6.5 inches in diameter, about 3 inches thick, has a capacity of 200 feet of 60-pound-test braided wire, and weighs about 3 pounds with the mounting hardware. The A&S reel, built from aluminum and steel, is similar in size with a 300-foot capacity. It weighs about 6 pounds, including the included C-clamp. The reels' release tension and clutch functions are fully adjustable and preset for common fishing conditions. This allows them to pay out wire to the pull of a 1-pound weight, and to retrieve wire when that tension is relieved by the angler. Both reels have a dedicated following among hardcore handliners and retail for about $250 to $300 spooled with wire and including mounting hardware. You can often find new and vintage handline reels on eBay for half that.

The shank is a 4- to 5-foot wire line that connects the main wire line at one end with a 1-1/4 pound lead weight at the other. Spaced at roughly one-foot intervals along the wire shank are two to four clevis-type clips that leaders are attached to using snap swivels. The leaders are made from monofilament or fluorocarbon, typically ranging from 20 to 40 feet.

Most anglers run two leaders on each shank, with the upper leader measuring twice as long as the lower. The lower leader is usually attached to the first clevis, about 14 inches above the weight, which is made from lead molded around a brass wire that extends a few inches from the bottom. This setup allows both the lures to run within 6 to 8 inches of the bottom, the current forcing the upper rig with the longer leader down deep and behind the lower, shorter rig. A lure, usually straight-running-stick-bait types like an original Rapala-style or a spoon is attached to each leader using a snap.

Beauty In The Eye Of The Beholder

Photo: Getty Images/LaSalle-Photo

The walleye is a freshwater fish in the perch family that is a popular and commonly stocked game fish. Walleye are long and thin, primarily gold and olive in color, with a white or yellowish belly. The back is crossed with five or more black bands. They have two dorsal fins — one spiny, one soft-rayed. The walleye's mouth is large with sharp teeth, and it has low-light vision that helps it find prey at night. Walleye grow to about 3 feet and weigh up to 10 to 20 pounds.

Native to Canada, the Great Lakes, the Missouri River basin, and the upper Mississippi River basin, they've been introduced throughout the Western and Northeastern U.S. They prefer the cool, deep, quiet waters of rivers, lakes, and reservoirs. Walleye are mostly nocturnal and during the day are often found under the cover of tree roots, logs, and aquatic plants. At night, they travel to shallower waters.

This fish's diet depends on what's available, which usually includes small fish such as minnows, yellow perch, large invertebrates, and aquatic insects. Walleye spawn in the spring or early summer over gravel or rocks in rivers or shallow reefs in lakes, where there is enough of a current to clear away sediment and aerate the eggs. Females can deposit more than 100,000 eggs, which hatch in about two weeks and live up to 10 years or more.

— National Wildlife Federation

How It's Done

Other than installing the reel, there's little else rigging-wise that must be done to adapt a boat for handlining. A kicker motor or drag bags may be required to run the boat at the 1- to 1.5-mph speeds needed to properly employ the technique. And because the tactic involves zigzagging at 45-degree angles into the current, some anglers put a ring-style prop guard on the lower unit to keep the wire line from fouling the prop at the turns. Serious handliners also prefer fishfinders with large screens that can be monitored from seating positions farther aft than the traditional helm fishing position. Some actually mount the displays farther back in the cockpit to make them easier to see from the seats near the stern, where the handlining is performed.

Cruising into a current running 5 mph or more, the operator strives to maintain a speed-over-ground of 1 to 1.5 mph in a zigzag pattern. The angler controls and steers the tiller-operated kicker by hand while seated to the rear of the cockpit, either on a pedestal chair or on the rear casting platform with feet on the floor, monitoring the sonar for fish and the cover walleyes seek on the bottom anywhere from 10 to 50 feet below. When it's time to fish, the angler drops the weight over the side, which draws wire from the reel that's mounted forward along the top of the gunwale. He clips his prerigged leaders to the clasps along the shank.

Combining the pull of the weight and the forward progress of the boat, the angler allows the reel to pay out wire, which is running across his fingers held over the side of the boat, until he feels the weight touch the bottom. At that point, the angler determines just how much wire he needs to have out to allow the weight to tick the bottom when he drops his fishing arm back, yet pull it up and off bottom when he swings his arm forward. Keeping one hand overboard suspending the wire with two or more fingers, the other hand on tiller and both eyes glued to the fishfinder to monitor the bottom conditions he is approaching, the handliner works his way slowly up-current.

Maintaining such intimate contact with the bottom allows the handliner to instantly react to the changing bottom conditions, scouring fish-holding holes by dropping back to allow the lures to plunge deeper, or swinging his arm — and the rig — forward, to hop over obstructions or work atop humps. Slack line between the angler and the reel is automatically taken up by the spring-loaded reel, which free-spools extra wire when needed to go deeper but is not capable of reeling in the weighted wire on its own.

Walleye strikes are announced by sudden jerking and shaking on the wire, which is felt across the fisherman's fingers. At that point, the handliner forgoes the traditional hook-set of the wire (which with the zero-stretch wire might rip the lure from the mouth of the fish) and begins the steady hand-over-hand retrieve as the spring-loaded reel automatically retrieves the excess wire until the walleye is in the boat.

Handlining Equipment Sources

• A&S Reels: A&S Reel & Tackle, (313) 928-1667; [email protected]
• Kachman Reels and Mounts: Riviera Trolling Systems (989) 738-5700
• Reel Mounts: Bert's Custom Tackle : (800) 367-3726
• Ring-Style Prop Guards: Mac's Troll Prop Saver , (888) 658-4700

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Dan Armitage

Contributing Editor, BoatUS Magazine

A full-time travel and outdoors writer based in Ohio, Dan is in his 20th season hosting the popular syndicated radio show Buckeye Sportsman. He gets around on a pontoon boat and an Aquasport center-console, which he uses for all his DIY editorial projects and fishing features. A USCG Captain (Master 50-ton), he’s a popular speaker at boat and sport shows.

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Bluewater Sailing Techniques Part 12: Fishing from your boat

• August 13, 2015

Fishing from your boat is one of the many fun activities while long-distance cruising. Dan Bower's advice on catching a fish for your supper is the last in our series of Bluewater Sailing Techniques

Photo: Tor Johnson

Now there are as many fishing ‘golden rules’, guaranteed methods and fishy tales as there are fishermen. There are also some excellent books dedicated to the subject – these are rather large – so there is a lot to say. This is what works for us; it’s simple and we rarely go hungry.

Choosing your gear

There is a lot out there, racks of rods, reels and shelves of shiny, colourful lures of all shapes and sizes. The best thing is to seek advice from the shop and find out what works for the area you’re fishing in and what fish you’re looking to catch.

You don’t need a rod and reel set-up to land a fish, but it does make your life easier, and the bigger and stronger the equipment, the more it will cost, but the less work it will be to bring one in and the more ‘strikes’ you will land successfully.

On many of my early transatlantic deliveries our fishing kit consisted of some line and an empty 2lt water bottle to wrap it around. With this budget and easy-stow system we landed some fairly sizeable catch, but it required thick gloves, a bit of a fight and all three crewmembers pulling the line. We also lost a few, together with line and lures.

If you’re going for hand line, then it’s the thicker the better, without the clutch lessening the snatch, a bigger line is less likely to snap – it’s also much easier on the hands when pulling it in.

Aboard Skyelark we have a simple, short rod – Penn Tuna Stick with 345 GTI reel and 60lb line – mounted on a stanchion and tend to favour the squid-style surface lures in various colours as bait.

Before setting off on an ocean crossing we encourage our crewmembers to go off in search of their own favourite lucky lure and so we acquire an eclectic selection with all the bubble-blowers, rattlers and teasers that the salesman proffered, and to be fair most do quite well.

Blues, pinks, reds and whites are probably the winners in the tropics.

Line length

After selecting the lure and tying it on, it then comes down to line length, and you want the lure to be just beyond the effects of your wake. We usually go for around four boat lengths (60m), but the faster you are travelling the more line should go out. The boat’s wake causes a disturbance and intrigues the fish, they come up to take a look and, always peckish, they go for the lure.

If it’s too close to the boat the wake will hide it and too far out you may get fewer strikes. A good rule of thumb is 10x the boat speed to give metres – eg 5 knots = 50m, 6 knots = 60m.

We experiment by counting the number of passes of the line guide, as it’s hard to judge how far back a semi-sinking lure is. If you’re using a reel then you can set the break so it only lets out line when a fish strikes. If you’re not using a reel then you need something to take the ‘snatch’ – in this way the line doesn’t snap and the hook becomes more firmly embedded. A small piece of bungy works well.

Reeling it in

It’s called fishing, not catching . . . but hopefully before too long you will get a strike signalled by a satisfying clicking and the line running away. The first thing is to increase the drag (clutch) on the reel. You don’t want to stop the line going out completely as a strong fish will snap it, but you want to increase the drag to tire it out.

You can play the drag to exhaust the fish; however, the more you let out, the more you bring in, but it’s easier to bring in if it’s tired, hence the balance.

It’s also useful to slow the boat down at this stage – consider bearing away or furling the headsail. To wind in, set the drag on the reel so that the line will wind in, but not so tight that the fish can’t take some more if it is feeling particularly energetic.

Once the fish is surfing on the surface, you can make good progress; if it gains purchase and dives deep, the work will become slow. Be patient and if necessary allow out more line.

Getting your catch on board

Once you have the fish close to the boat, it’s time to consider how to get it aboard as quickly and cleanly as possible. It’s worth noting that under sport fishing rules ‘leader in hand’ counts as a catch so once you’re here, it’s as good as caught technically so even if it gets away it’s a victory.

The surest way of landing the fish is to gaff it. A gaff is a big sharp hook on a stick and allows you to hook into the meat before the fish is out of the water. Failing this, you can pull it up onto a sugar scoop or under a guardrail – but be mindful that during this stage a final flurry of rapid thrashing can set your meal free. A gaff is a good investment.

We once caught a beautiful white marlin, which was swimming beside the boat. Neither I nor my able mate was keen on the idea of simply hoiking a monstrous thrashing fish onto the deck and would have been quite happy to let it free, but surrounded by eager clients we had to try something.

The first attempt was to pass a loop of line over the fish and tighten it over its tail – the plan was to get a firm hold and pull one at each end. This wasn’t a success and neither was our hastily put together homemade gaff – the fish in this case jumped the hook and got away unharmed. After blogging our woes, a new gaff arrived for Christmas and the next marlin was landed.

Killing it!

Now comes the rather grisly bit: the fish does have to die, but how best to do it? Whacking it with something heavy – a winch handle is usually the instrument of choice – can be slow, bloody, inhumane and result in some chips in the glassfibre.

Our favoured method is to hold the fish head first in a bucket of water and cut into the gills with a sharp knife. This way the fish will pump its blood out into the bucket: no mess, no drama and it is better for the meat.

Another option is to inebriate it with hard spirits, straight into the gills, or knife in the back of the head/spinal column. Whatever method you use, it needs to be quick – this is kinder to the fish and better for the meat.

Fish supper

Next prepare for cooking. With a small oven-sized fish we would favour keeping it whole, so first it needs to be gutted – we do this in a bucket. For bigger fish this is not practical; even just cutting through the spine can require a cleaver and a mallet.

For these we fillet the fish there and then, running a sharp filleting knife down each side of the bone and removing the flesh. The fish doesn’t need to be gutted, and the head and carcass can be thrown back as part of the food chain. Watch how we do this in our online video.

Where to fish

We generally deploy a line whenever on passage, either across an ocean or just between islands. We don’t fish near reefs or in passes because of the distraction and the risk of ciguatera poisoning (see below). The best times are dawn and dusk, but there is no hard rule; you can strike any time.

We don’t fish at night for the practical reason of dealing with a catch in the dark, so our line goes out just before dawn and in after sunset – you have to be in it to win it!

A note on ciguatera poisoning

Ciguatera is a toxin that can accumulate in fish that feed off the algae on coral reefs (or eat the fish that do) and while it’s harmless to the fish it can be very unpleasant for humans. Although rarely fatal, symptoms occur within three to five hours, but can develop and worsen over four or five days and can last for weeks, months and even for years!

Tingling and numbness around the nose and mouth, vomiting, diarrhoea, aching joints and muscle pain, weak pulse, feeling cold and weak, shocks and burning sensations are all possible – and medical attention should be sought.

The toxin is generally limited to reef fish and their predators, so is more relevant to spear fishing or trolling around the reefs. The bigger the fish, the more likely that the toxin levels will be high – they have eaten a lot of little fish – so keeping to smaller fish lessens the risk. However, the toxin levels can also build up in humans before becoming dangerous, so if you regularly consume reef fish, you are at risk.

Usually anything caught offshore is not affected and pelagic fish are safe (tuna, mahi mahi, marlin, wahoo). The only sure way is to abstain from eating reef fish, but you’re fairly safe if you take advice – local fishermen will know. Ask them what is safe from which areas (this can change from reef to reef). Groupers, jacks, barracuda and the moray eel are particularly predatory fish and are the most at risk, so should be avoided.

Our approach aboard Skyelark is to eat anything caught offshore and we prefer to buy any reef fish from fishermen or eat them in a restaurant where the chances are you should be OK.

Do’s and don’ts

√ Do experiment with different coloured lures.

√ Do slow the boat down to help reel it in.

√ Do throw a line out when on passage.

√ Do buy the best rod and reel your budget allows.

√ Do take care with the hook as you bring the fish on board. One crewmember on an ARC yacht needed surgery to remove a fish hook from his arm.

√ Do seek advice from local sailors about what works for them.

x Don’t take any risks with eating a fish that may have ciguatera.

x Don’t be afraid to cut the line if you end up with a fish much larger than you are happy to try to land.

x Don’t try to pull a fish in on a handline without slowing the boat right down and wearing gloves.

x Don’t Don’t troll around reefs or passes if you’re not sure about ciguatera .

• Reels can take a lot of punishment and it is worth buying some spare parts if you are away on a long trip.
• A gaff is a really useful piece of kit for getting the fish on board – it can be a big struggle without one.
• Two hours after sunrise or before sunset is the best time to fish.
• Make sure you have attached a swivel and leader before the lure.
• Use line thick enough and strong enough for the fish you hope to catch.
• Try making your own lures out of rubber gloves.
• Rig flying fish for bait.

There is a ciguatera test kit – see www.cigua.com

Baked fish (mahi mahi)

1 oven-sized whole mahi mahi, or fillets

2 onions, sliced

Garlic cloves to taste.

Splash of lemon juice or white wine

Cover fillets or stuff whole fish with onions, lemons and garlic, place in tin foil, splash over wine and bake for 20mins or until cooked. Serve with a bit of butter and sides.

Dan and Em Bower

Dan and Em Bower, both in their thirties, are lifelong sailors. Six years ago they bought Skyelark of London , a Skye 51 by American designer Rob Ladd, built in Taiwan in 1986, and have been sailing and chartering her ever since, making some 12 transatlantic crossings and covering around 60,000 miles.

See videos for all the parts here

12-part series in association with pantaenius. look out for our next series on catamaran sailing techniques.

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• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Fishing Rigs for Sailors

The low-cost, space-saving yo-yo hand reel is the most basic, efficient fishing gear you can find-its essentially a handline modernized with a molded plastic reel wrapped with monofilament.

Every cruising boat should carry at least one fishing rod and reel for fooling around and catching dinner, but carrying a proper trolling rig can create a storage problem on board. Enter the simple yo-yo: Pre-rigged for trolling, it is a compact, cost-effective, and efficient tool for the cruising sailor; a whole stack takes up less room than a typical tacklebox. The wide, deep spool allows for the line, inline sinker, leader, and lure to be stowed, ready for use, right on the yo-yo.

The 6-inch-inside-diameter yo-yo is best for handlining and typically comes pre-loaded with 300 feet of 40-pound test monofilament, a 1-ounce sinker, and a hook; the 8-inch yo-yo is typically sold empty and is better suited to a trolling setup.

Rigging the Yo-Yo

A broad ridge on the inside of the yo-yo allows a good grip for playing and landing any fish you can manage with one hand. (For most, however, a rod and reel is still easier to use; casting is simpler, its easier to feel the bite, and playing the fish is more dependable.)

To set up a yo-yo, secure 150 to 200 feet of 80- to 100-pound test line to the spool with a mono knot such as a clinch knot. If youre fishing for mid-depth gamefish, add a 2- to 8-ounce inline sinker with a swivel; vary the weight when youre trolling multiple rigs at the same time. Follow that with a 20-foot leader of 80- to 100-pound test and a lure of your choice. Local knowledge rules, but yellow hose eels, large Rapala trolling plugs, high-speed chrome spoons, and parachute jigs with soft baits are all popular, depending on the target fish. Size the lures according to what you can actually catch and eat.

Attach the yo-yo to the stern rail with a sling of one-eighth-inch double-braid and a carabiner. Make a small loop in the monofilament about 2 feet from the yo-yo, and place it in the flatline clip or outrigger clip (this creates a cleaner release than clipping straight line), removing the tension from the yo-yo and allowing it to hang down; when a fish bites, the clip releases, the yo-yo lifts up and back as it pulls taut against the tether, striking the stern rail and sounding the fish-on alarm.

Trolling speeds vary from 3 to 4 knots to 4 to 7 knots. For pelagic fish such as tuna and mahi-mahi, skip the weights, switch to feather jigs and kona clones, vary the line lengths, and troll at 6 to 10 knots. Though you can certainly troll with the engine on, we seem luckier under sail-or perhaps we just don’t care as much when we strike out.

To land the fish, slow down but do not stop; maintaining a minimum of 3 knots keeps the slack out of the line, preventing the fish from throwing the hook. It also helps reduce tangles by keeping everything straight. To reel in, simply wind the line back on the spool with a figure-8 motion of the arm and wrist, just as you would wind in a kite. The reel does the work and you should only touch the line to guide it and to feel the fish. If you hope to fight a large fish-and these can mange some big fish-donning sailing gloves may be a good idea.

Aboard our PDQ 32 catamaran, the typical trolling setup includes four yo-yos-two about 3 feet in from each stern corner, and two on stubby outriggers. When casually trolling, we often set just two on the corners.

To use the yo-yo, simply bait up and lower the line over the stern. If youre fishing from the beach or a tender, you can cast by letting out about 3 feet of line, then pinching the line against the yo-yos side with your thumb, and whirling the bait and sinker over your head like a slingshot. Face the low edge of the spool in the direction of the cast, and the line will whirl off, just as it does on an open-faced spinning reel.

Yo-Yo Products

For the average sailor, any Cuban-style yo-yo will likely suffice (just look for a good finger ridge and smooth molding), but we like the Challenge-brand plastic hand reels ($4, www.amazon.com ). The larger size is better suited to 80- to 100-pound monofilament and has room to store an attached sinker and lure.

We also prefer Cannons Unistacker downrigger release clip. Weve tried many brands, and they all work fine, but we Recommend Cannon ( www.cannondownriggers.com ) as weve found them to be very reliable, easily adjustable, and the best value ($15/set of two).

For outrigger release clips, we Recommend the Tigress brand. These allow the trolling line to release from the outrigger, indicating a hit. The Tigress clips ($25 for a pair, www.westmarine.com ) are reliable and a good value.

Bottom line: A lot of fun for little bitty money, yo-yos are compact enough for day sailors, yet durable enough for world sailors. For the casual angler, stick with the 6-inch diameter sizes. We Recommend Canon, Tigress, and Challenge gear for setting up your yo-yo rig.

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