24 foot wooden sailboat

March / April Issue No. 297  Preview Now

Sailboats - Daysailers

Daysailer 24'.

If we have to base ourselves on market demand before 2008, the two daysailers that we propose are very small. At that time, generally characterized by a continuous increase in boat size, it seemed as though a daysailer could not be less than 12 m, (even better if it exceeded 15 m). That is not to mention many maxiyachts which, although they cannot be defined as daysailers, were routinely used by their owners as such, for daring voyages of few miles, between Porto Cervo and Porto Rotondo or between Portofino and Santa Margherita. Today, after the financial crisis, it seems that the trend is moving towards more compact daysailers. Our opinion has always been that small boats offer great advantages. It's true that today it is said that thanks to the various gadgets (bow thruster, electric winch, etc.) even large boats can be handled effortlessly. However, it seems to us that this triggers a downward spiral for which the more gadgets you add increase the size the boat, which, being large, takes other devices, and so on and so forth. Instead, we have focused on small size and simplicity, which also means lower costs. However, this does imply a cheap boat. The quality of construction, the choice of technologically advanced and high quality materials, and the excellent level of detail imply a final cost relatively high. However, we prefer that the price is justified by the intrinsic quality of the boat rather than by the presence of frivolous accessories.

The other aspects on which we focused our efforts were the study of efficient hulls, appendages, and sail plans. The daysailers must be fun, vibrant, and responsive boats to use, even if they aren't made for competition. Therefore we designed a sail plan with generous sail areas and with the possibility to fit an asymmetric on a retractable bowsprit, an efficient keel, (though with a moderate aspect ratio in order to maintain a reasonable draft) and high efficiency rudders.

The interior is basic, with simple berths for 2 or 4 people (respectively for the 24′ and 30′). These boats are, of course, meant to stay mostly outside, so we left more space in the cockpits, which are able to very comfortably accommodate 4 people (on Dafne 24′) and up to a maximum of 6 (on Dafne 30′). Given the size, a small crew or a single can handle the daysailers effortlessly.

Those who want to sail in a group and take aboard more than 6 people must actually look for a larger day-boat.

More information at: www.bcademco.it

Complete boats: www.ninfayachts.com

Design Specifications

B.C.A. Demco kit via Ricciarelli 21 - 20148 MILANO - ITALY Tel / Fax: +39 02.4870.8331 E-Mail: [email protected]

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Wittholz 17' Catboat

Pixie 14 sailing catamaran

From the Community

2015/1936 Chris Craft Special Race Boat

19′ 1936 replica of the Chris-Craft Special race boat built by Vintage Craft Boats.

19’ Bartender

We are selling our 19′ Bartender that was hand made by my wife’s father.

1985 HD-750 Mahogany Sloop

24.5′ “SOUVENIR”.

Herreshoff 12 For Sale

Well maintained. Sailed regularly. Winter storage in Salem, MA. $25,000.

The official home of the Beetle Cat sailboat since 1921

A century of sailing.

The year 2021 marks the 100th anniversary of the Beetle Cat sailboat. This will make the Beetle Cat boat the oldest one design that has been continuously produced out of wood and continues to be competitively raced for the past 100 years.

Our Mission

The Beetle Cat boat shop is dedicated to preserving the art of traditional Plank-On-Frame wood boat construction, using the highest quality of materials and craftsmanship while providing a source for new wooden Beetle Cat sailboats. In addition, the shop offers a full service boat yard for the Beetle Cat community and Beetle Cat sailors for maintenance, repairs, paint, parts, storage, and transportation...

Quality Craftsmanship & Materials

A visit to the Beetle Cat boat shop is like a step back in time. The pleasant smell of cedar greets you as you walk thru the front door and into the office, which is lined with historic photos and memorabilia...

Our History

The Beetle Cat sailboat was named after the Beetle family of New Bedford, MA who originally designed and built the small 12 foot gaff rigged wooden sailboat for their children in 1921. Famous for their Beetle Whaleboats, they used some of the same mass production techniques that enabled them to build quality whaleboats in record times...

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Specifications

The First 24 SE is a  modern high-tech sport cruiser , capable of delivering thrilling performance in a versatile package that is easy to use and maintain. She is of course  trailerable , and her smart mast-raising system allows a single user to launch and go, giving you access to a wide variety of cruising and racing grounds, from international  one-design regattas  to coastal adventure races. And at the end of the day, she will welcome you with a simple but smart interior, offering all basic cruising amenities for four people. No matter the mode, she is a  true sailing sensation .

NAVAL ARCHITECT : Manuard YD INTERIOR DESIGN : Sito Concept & R&D: Seascape

WHY FIRST 24 SE ?

PERFORMANCE

Ultimate performance & high-tech building technology deliver the promised performance of the Seascape Edition: a very light, modern vacuum-infused vinyl-ester hull, composite-build swinging keel with lead bulb, carbon-fiber rig, and extensive sail area.

EASY TO USE

Well-thought-out cockpit ergonomics, minimized controls, a carbon mast without a backstay, a light but precise steering system, and a stable hull significantly simplify boat handling, whether solo, double-handed or fully crewed. 

The First 24 SE is insubmersible thanks to her unsinkable chambers, a swinging keel system which will protect the structure in case of grounding, and twin rudders that always ensure complete control. Expanding your comfort zone has never been safer!

Whether you prefer classical windward-leeward races or exploring new shores through single or double-handed adventures, you'll always enjoy the company of the growing worldwide owners' community.

A light structure and a swinging keel system enable easy road transportation. Handling of the light carbon mast is easy, and her provisional mast crane does not limit you to on-land facilities. She allows a user to simply launch and go.

SAILING EXPERIENCE

The First 24 SE is a true pocket rocket, defined by the design team's racing background. An incredible sail area to displacement ratio ensures fast sailing in both strong and light wind conditions. Downwind planing in stronger breezes is a blast and a pure joy because of the stable hull, and the deep, ballasted keel and twin rudders, which give you complete control.  The First 24 SE is enjoyable in lighter conditions too, as she reacts to the slightest wind gusts and can easily match wind-speeds. Spacious, open and carefully thought-out cockpit ergonomics work in solo, double-handed or fully-crewed setups and guarantee easy handling and comfortable sailing, no matter if you're on a relaxed afternoon sail or racing in one-design regattas.

LIVING ONBOARD

The First 24 SE interior is minimalistic and very weight-sensitive, but in addition to her performance, she still provides all key amenities you can expect on a modern 24ft high-performance racer. The large open-space salon can easily sleep up to 4 adults, two on the V-berth and two on the extendable side beds. Her removable crew bags house personal belongings, and can be stored under the benches. Her indoor/outdoor table can be used in the salon or cockpit, and there is even a dedicated place for a chemical toilet. For technical storage, there is a large-volume capacity under the cockpit area, accessible from the exterior. All interior components function as parts of the boat structure. Furthermore, the First 24 SE is highly modular, so one can easily reduce additional weight for racing. 

Joining the One Design Class gives you access to the largest recreational community of like-minded sailors. It enables you to test your skills on the racecourse and enjoy good company ashore.

Equipped With SEANAPPS

The easiest way to keep your boat safe and ready to cruise anytime.

The new Seanapps  app is the ultimate solution to help you indulge your passion for boating. With the touch of your finger, you can easily connect, monitor and order services for your boat – from routine maintenance, to requesting a wash or fuel or having us complete a repair.

The information below is intended for general informational purposes only and is subject to change without notice and does not constitute a contractual agreement. Any descriptions, representations, or statements made in this document are not to be considered binding unless explicitly stated otherwise in a formal contractual agreement.

Length Overall

Beam overall

CE Certification

The thinking behind a modern sailing event – SE challenge's roots

It was almost dark when I stepped from the ever-balancing hull of my Seascape 18 onto the dock in Svendborg. To my surprise, the familiar cocktail of relief, elation, sadness, joy, and overwhelming sensation of accomplishment started to kick in.

Sunny skies for the 41th Spi Ouest-France

Four days of high-level racing!

The epic legend of the First : 40 years on

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Buying a BENETEAU doesn’t have to be a daunting task. We have teams of experts to guide you through the entire process – everything from sea trials, financing, and customization to after-sale commissioning, service, and maintenance. We are proud to have one of the largest, most highly-regarded dealer networks in the world. We’re ready to provide you with the assistance and expertise needed to launch you and your BENETEAU on a lifetime of happy, rewarding, and memorable voyages.

Other models in the range

4.3 m / 14’ 1’’

1.7 m / 5’ 7’’

5.55 m / 18’3’’

2.38 m / 7’ 10’’

7.99 m / 26’3’’

2.54 m / 8’4’’

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• Wooden Sailboats

Wooden Sailboats Boats for sale

10' 6"ACORN WOOD SAILING AND ROWING DINGY, Ian Oughtred design

Ann Arbor, Michigan

Make Wooden Construction

Model Oughtred, 10' Acorn Dinghy

Category Daysailer Sailboats

Length 10.6

Posted Over 1 Month

Ian Oughtred designed, 10' 6" Acorn sailing dingyI have the original plans which are included. The boat is on a trailer that was designed to fit this specific boat. The stem to stern water proof cover is custom made for the boat by Muskegon canvas. The sail was also made specific for this boat according to the sail plans, also included. Dagger board is accented with purple heart wood, oar locks are brass, oars, and rudder are included. Contact information: You are welcome to reach me via email through ebay. Interested parties are welcome to speak with the builder. I can put you in contact with him who would be happy to answer all of your questions. I am happy to offer free delivery within 250 miles of Ann Arbor, MI. Delivery outside of that area can be arranged for a fee, otherwise pick up is in southeast Michigan. Payments can be made through pay pal, certified check or cash. No delivery will be made until full payment has been received and verified. This vessel and trailer are as described above and shown in the photographs. NO ADDITIONAL GUARANTEE IS EITHER IMPLIED OR EXPRESSED.

1940's 16' Wooden X Class Sailboat with Trailer

Freeland, Michigan

Model X Class - Cub

Length 16.0

Wooden X Class sailboat with trailer. I was told it was built by a Michigan boat builder back in the 40's. Fair condition but will need restoration. 6' beam, around 500 lbs. Boat is complete, spruce mast and boom, two sets of sails (well used) rudder, galvanized center board in excellent shape, outboard well. Newer tires on trailer, lights will need some work. Please email if you have any questions or would like to take a look at it, thanks!

Wooden Blue Jay # 648 with sails, trailer, 2 rudders and more.

Brookfield, Connecticut

Make Sparkman And Stephens

Model Blue Jay

Length 14.0

Johnson 2 hp outboard engine available for optional use. Can be mounted on transom and then lifted up when under sail. I got the boat from a friend and then completely restored it.

2 Sunfish Sailboats & Double Deck Trailer fully equipped ready to be sailed.

Lititz, Pennsylvania

Make Alcort X 2

Model Sunfish

2 Sunfish Sailboats + Double Deck Trailer that are fully equipped to be sailed. Boat Descriptions – Boat 1 is a 1972 Sunfish with a blue deck & blue white stripped sail with metal halyard pulley & metal bailer. Boat 2 is a 1982 Sunfish with a white deck with orange trim and markings. It has a red/white and yellow/orange sail. See pictures. Both have all wooden mahogany daggerboards and rudder/ tiller assemblies and as you can see in photos. The rudder blades are reinforced and have metal cheek plates.Each boat has had a swivel jam cleat added to control the mainsheet. The boats have been stored under a roof since 1984 when we purchased them. They were sailed on freshwater lake only. The trailer has new tires with a spare and has been rigged to haul 2 boats with a tube for sail and mast storage. Also included is a lightweight dolly to transport the boats short distances to the water. This allows for easy launching without having to back the trailer down a boat ramp into the water. Price $2,795 by Paypal only. LOCAL PICKUP ONLY about 35 miles south of Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. Buyer pays all transfer fees. Buyer must be pre-approved. Just send questions and/or request through ebay's message system and I will pre-approve you to buy.

1980 Pearson 365 Ketch Sailboat

Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Make Pearson

Model 365 Ketch Sailboat

Category Sailboats

1980 Pearson 365 Ketch Sailboat 1980, 36' PEARSON 365 KETCH SAILBOAT Single Westerbeke 42HP V-Drive Inboard Diesel A Perfect Size Sailboat for Long Range Sailing Adventures!  LOA: 36' 4", Beam: 11' 5", Max Hull Draft: 4' 6", Displacement: 17,700 lbs Fuel Capacity: 50 U.S. Gallons Fresh Water Capacity: 150 U.S. Gallons Waste Tank Capacity: 15 U.S. Gallons Engines: Single Diesel Westerbeke 42HP V-Drive Inboard Ballast: 7,300 lbs. Engine Hours: 1,881 Engine Cruise Speed: 5 Knots Max Speed: 7 Knots  VESSEL WALK-THROUGH: NEVA is a very well maintained 1980 PEARSON 365 KETCH Sailboat that features an extremely comfortable cockpit layout, lots of storage space throughout, a full galley, and stand up head with sink and shower. The master stateroom is located forward with wooden privacy doors. The additional berths in the salon offer additional sleeping arrangments for overnight guests. All of the sails are in great condition and the exterior upholstery is brand new (used only once) and stored inside the owners home. The blue bimini top is also brand new in 2016. In 2014 NEVA was dry docked for over five months for servicing. While she was dry docked, any blisters were addressed and then NEVA was freshly bottom painted after being grinded, coated seven times with epoxy and then bottom painted with Trinidad bottom paint. In addition, the owner has a diver clean the bottom on a regular monthly basis to keep her performing like a champ. Unlike most other 1980 Sailboats, on this one you'll find that everything actually works! This 365 Ketch was purchased from a US Coast Guard Officer and the current owner is a former (now retired) Licensed Captain as well. This 1980, 365 Ketch Model is a rugged William Shaw design that's perfect for exploring the Bahamas and Caribbean, expecially with it's very low draft. ELECTRONICS and ADDITIONAL FEATURES: GARMIN GPS 492 Color Plotter (linked to the DSC VHF Radio for Selective Calling) Autohelm 4000 Auto Pilot; West Marine VHF Radio with Distress Button w/Antenna; Datamarine apparent Wind Direction / Datamarine Speed Indicator; Depth Sounder w/Alarm; Datamarine Speed/Distance Indicator; Illuminated Helm Compass; Energy Monitoring System; Two (2) Shore Power Cords Included; Aquamet Propeller Shaft; New Sail Covers at $700.00 each; All New Rigging in 2011; Two (2) Anchors (1 plow and 1 kevil) and New 2016 Raraton Hot Water Hea

2010 Jeanneau 57

Make Jeanneau

2010 Jeanneau 57 This is a very elegant offshore cruiser with exquisite interior design - built to provide utmost luxury and safety, Truly designed for luxury long range cruising.  It is owned by its first owner and has been professionally maintained for its entire lifespan. Fully equipped for Ocean cruising Very well kept laid teak decks and wooden floors in all 5 cabins.

1976 Kennedys Inc Gaff Rigged Schooner

Newport Beach, California

Make Kennedys Inc

Model Gaff Rigged Schooner

1976 Kennedys Inc Gaff Rigged Schooner, Classic Gaff Rigged Schooner Specifications: * LOA 60' * LOD 47' * Draft 8' * Beam 16' * Wooden Strip Plank * Kabota 70 HP W/120 Hours * $60000.00, 9492802605

1956 Sparkman and Stephens Mystic

Dolton, Illinois

Model Mystic

1956 Sparkman and Stephens Mystic Built by Paul Molich in Denmark, MYSTIC was originally owned by Harold Oldak and sailed on Long Island Sound. Her current owner has kept her in Chicago for 40 years and updated her systems. The diesel engine dates from the 90's and her sails from early 2000's. The solid dodger in the front of the cockpit is original and something current builders could learn from.  The owner reports some wood work to be done in the transom but other than that she is  in sound shape. He has taken very good care of her for many years and thinks it is time to turn her over the helm to a new wooden boat enthusiast who will enjoy her as much as he has.  Survey available per request from 2008

1984 ANGEL MARINE NASSAU 45

Destin, Florida

Make ANGEL MARINE

Model NASSAU 45

1984 ANGEL MARINE NASSAU 45 Designed by Robert "Bob" Perry, this one owner 1985 Nassau 45 is well cared for and is berthed on a fresh water tributary in the northern Gulf of Mexico.  The boat is simular to another classic Perry design, the Tatoosh 41, but with more generous overhangs bow and stern. The Perkins 4-108 inboard produces plenty of reliable power to get you through the calms.  The boat has a genset with enough power to run both air conditioners and all other AC systems at once on full load.  The owner is an engineer who designs power systems for clients all over the world and has cut no corners. This a circumnavigation-capable yacht with a beautifully fitted wooden interior and plenty of features for fast and comfortable cruising.  The boat has SSB, EPIRB, liferaft and watermaker for long bluewater crusiing.

2015 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 349

Deltaville, Virginia

Model Sun Odyssey 349

2015 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 349 Still has Warranty left! This 2015 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 349, "Gypsy" is better than new!  The Jeanneau 349 has been the most popular boat out there with her Gorgeous Hard Chine, Twin Rudders, and Surprising Space below. It's no wonder that this 349 was nominated as Best Pocket Cruiser for Cruising World's Boat of the Year Competition.  This particular Jeanneau 349 is a recent Trade-In as her previous owners have moved up to a larger Jeanneau. That means you are getting an almost Brand New Boat with all the right equipment! "Gypsy" comes equipped with all B&G electronics:B&G 7" Zeus GPS at the Port HelmB&G US ChartsB&G AC12 AutopilotB&G VHF V50B&G Radar The 349 is equipped with In-Mast Furling for even easier single handed sailing, and she comes with the Performance Pack for Furler, and the Dacron Mainsail. Below, you find a very well-lit, bright and airy salon with double doors opening into the V-Berth. The double doors really open up the cabin and make below feel much bigger than a 34 boat. Life is good in the cockpit of the Jeanneau 349 with shade provided by the Bimini, Dodger, and Connector, and a convenient Cockpit Table with Wooden Leaves for entertaining and dining outdoors. The Fold Down Transom of the 349 opens up the cockpit even more and provides a fantastic place to lay out, jump in the water, and rinse off after a swim with a hot/cold transom shower. You will not be disappointed by this sharp looking Jeanneau 349! Schedule a visit to Norton's today to get out on the water this Spring in your better than New Jeanneau 349!

1975 Cheoy Lee Offshore 53

Clearwater, Florida

Make Cheoy Lee

Model Offshore 53

1975 Cheoy Lee Offshore 53 "Shell Belle" is a serious long range Ketch rigged offshore cruising boat.  She has crossed the Atlantic four times including being apart of the commemorative 500th Anniversary of the Columbus crossing.  She has also cruised the Bahamas and the Caribbean and is extensively equipped for such including 12kw Genset, Wind Generator, Solar, Water Maker, Washer/Dryer, Ice Maker, Large Fridge 'n Freezer, Powered Winch, etc.Both original main and missen wooden spars were replaced in 1995 with aluminum masts and booms with Leasure Furl In Boom Furling on main.  Teak decks were stripped in 2010 and replaced with non skid fiberglass so no teak deck leaks.She's presently on the hard and ready for inspection at Cape Marina in Port Canaveral, Florida.

1992 Watercraft Elver canoe yawl

Palm Bay, Florida

Make Watercraft

Model Elver Canoe Yawl

1992 WatercraftElver canoe yawl,------ 20'ElverCanoeYawl-------------------manufacturer:WatercraftAmerica Inc------weight:1 ton----------------------------- draft:1 feet-----------------------------LWL :17 feet-----------------------------beam:7 feet ------------------------------- Construction is Cedar Stripped & Epoxy Sealed which meansVery easy Maintain wooden sail boat, very stable and fan to beaching---------- Outboard:Tohatsu 6 hp 2014-----------------Trailer:SHOE 1972-------------------------- 11,500/OBO---------------------------------Please See Web sight for more Info, http://mango-maureen.blogspot.com/

1957 Kettenburg PCC 46

San Diego, California

Make Kettenburg

Model PCC 46

1957 Kettenburg PCC 46 1957 Kettenburg 46 PCC Comanche The Pacific Cruising Class was designed to race, but still be comfortable enough to cruise with the family. This one has been refastened and has had extensive structural upgrades and had a new Volvo diesel in 1992. She has been structurally and cosmetically well-cared for. Among Comanche's credentials are a 1st Place in the PCC Nationals in 2011, 1st Place in the 2000 Yesteryear Regatta, Best in Show in the Wooden Boat Festival and numerous 1st and high finishes in other races. This boat is fast and ready to compete in PHRF or Ancient Mariner's Class. She's also ready to compete in most any beauty pageant.Whether racing or cruising, Comanche screams, "Look at me!" anytime she's on the water!

1974 Fuji Staysail Ketch

Punta Gorda, Florida

Model Staysail Ketch

1974 Fuji Staysail Ketch A classic head turner anywhere she goes. The subject of continuous photographs when she is out cruising. The Staysail Ketch with newer aluminum masts offers a wide variety of sail plans for all occasions. The cockpit is large and can entertain up to eight guests. The helm has a newer Garmin 541 chart plotter and a large pedestal mounted Richie 5 inch compass. The helm also has a wooden destroyer style wheel which is connected to an indestructible Edson Worm Gear steering device. The is equipped with an Origo Stove, a Sea-Swing, Adler-Barbour Refrigeration. On the stern are davits holding Force 4 eight foot RIB Dinghy, powered by a Mercury 3.3 HP engine.

1997 BENETEAU OCEANIS CC 40 FT.

New Rochelle, New York

Make BENETEAU

Model OCEANIS CC 40 FT

Length 40.0

1997 BENETEAU OCEANIS CC 40 FT.Specs Designer: Groupe Finot - Armel Briand Keel: Bulb Hull Shape: Monohull Dimensions Beam: 12 ft 9 in LWL: 36 ft 9 in Maximum Draft: 5 ft 6 in Displacement: 18740 lbs Ballast: 5300 lbs Headroom: 6 ft 3 in Dry Weight: 18740 lbs Engines Total Power: 50 HP Engine 1: Engine Brand: Yanmar Year Built: 1997 Engine Model: Yanmar Engine Type: Inboard Engine/Fuel Type: Diesel Engine Power: 50 HP Perfect cruising boat Full cockpit enclosure 5 KW NextGen generator with sound shield (super quiet) 2 heads 2 air condition units Main / Forward and Aft Cabin New cockpit cushions Algae X fuel polisher Custom made bunk beds Xantrex Link Pro Battery Monitor Xantrex 40 Smart Battery Charger Fresh Water Tanks: (132 Gallons) Fuel Tanks: (53 Gallons) Flex O Fold Bronze folding prop Asymmetrical Spinnaker and Sock TV / Cd player Digital Fridge / Freezer Thermostat VacuFlush Toilet 35lbs. CQR and 33 Bruce anchors and rope chain Simpson Lawrence chain / rope windless 2 8D Gel Batteries and Separate Starting Battery Back up High Capacity Bilge Pump PHI /PSS Shaft Seal Accommodations Number of single berths: 6 Manufacturer Provided Description: The specification for the Oceanis 40CC: the design of an ideal long-distance cruising yacht for a couple, but with the capability of accommodating four or five people in the greatest comfort. Being on board a powerful, reliable boat that also has high performance is an essential part of the pleasure of cruising. The Oceanis 40CC's hull is remarkable for its long waterline, big volumes and efficient wing-bulb keel. As far as her construction is concerned, there are no compromises: the structural inner mounding, glued and laminated to the hull, distributes any stresses from the rigging and keel. This technology combines reliability and strength and also provides perfectly finished locker interiors that are easy to maintain. One of the principal advantages of a central cockpit is the incomparable safety derived from the height of the cockpit, which is surrounded on all sides. There is a step of the coaming on the Oceanis 40CC to make it easier to get up the two teak-covered bench seats in the cockpit. There is a wheel mounted pedestal in the middle of the cockpit. Genoa and mainsail halyards and the lines for the two furlers are brought back onto powerful stoppers that free the halyard winch, whenever necessary. All handling lines are to hand. The Oceanis 40CC's deck is totally logical, simple and efficient, with steps in the transom (standard bathing ladder), liferaft fixing point on aft coachroof, solid aluminum bulwark the full length of the hull, as well as an aluminum rubbing strake. The numerous opening hatches and Dorade vents are positioned in such a way so as not to impede movement on deck. The chainplates for the upper and lower shrouds, which are positioned right against the coachroof, also leave the side decks completely free for easy access to the foredeck for the sunbathing area and the electric windlass. In the interior, the warm atmosphere (cherry finish) on board the Oceanis 40CC is essential to a good quality of life on board. To starboard, the saloon table and the raised settees ensure a pleasant "sea view" from inside the boat. Opposite to port, is the navigation station: chart table with stowage, bookshelves, 16-function electrical control panel, and all the room you need for on-board electronics. In the forward cabin, your guests have a large double berth, hanging locker, many other lockers and an en suite head compartment. In the passageway to port, which runs alongside the large engine compartment, the Oceanis 40CC's galley has everything you would normally find in the best-equipped kitchens: freezer, refrigerator, double stainless steel sink with hot and cold pressurised water, three-burner gimballed stove and many cupboards and drawers. As for the master cabin, all the incomparable advantages of the centre cockpit in terms of comfort and space have been fully exploited: large double berth with access from both sides, vanity-desk with mirror and lockers, large hanging lockers and your own head compartment with WC and separate shower. The Oceanis 40CC is truly the product of in-depth study into the expectations of ocean-going leisure sailors. A successful marriage of classicism and modern technology. Equipment List Oceanis 40CC Specifications - Standard Equipment On Deck - Stainless steel stemhead fitting with 2 fairleads and roller. - Open stainless steel pulpit - Leroy Sommer 1000W electric windlass with up - down control - Self-bailing anchor well with twin opening hatches and eye bolt for mooring line - Bulwark surrounding the deck with teak cap - 8 anodized aluminum mooring cleats: 2 forward, 2 midships, 4 aft - Forestay chainplate with slats on the stemhead fitting - 2 chromed bronze lower shroud chainplate, 2 Beneteau streamlined chromed bronze shroud chainplates - Anodized aluminum identified fuel and water fillers - Stainless steel stanchions with two sets of covered stainless steel lifelines - Lateral opening lifelines - 4 teak handrails on coachroof - 4 dorade vents - Forward cockpit coaming for windscreen, rigid top or sprayhood - 2 genoa sheet tracks with adjustable cars - 2 genoa sheet turning blocks - Mainsheet track with adjustable car - 1 Lewmar 40C STO halyard and maneuvering winch - 4 Spinlock XL double stoppers for halyards and maneuvering lines - 2 Lewmar 48C STO genoa sheet winches - 1 Lewmar 40C STO mainsheet winch Center Cockpit - Hydraulic steering wheel pedestal mounted or on forward port cockpit bulkhead - Control panel on cockpit bench seat facade - Teak slatted cockpit benches - 1 winch handle box - 2 chromed bronze winch handles - 2 sidedeck lockers (one for propane bottle) - 2 lockers for mooring lines and fenders on transom - Fixing points on aft coachroof for liferaft - 2 - 18-12 S-S backstay chainplates - 2 - 18-12 S-S pushpit with 2 teak seats, closed by sheathed lifelines - Emergency tiller - Transom with teak slatted skirt - Teak slatted step in transom - Folding 18-12 S-S swim ladder with wooden steps - Cockpit shower -- Aluminum rubbing strake either side of hull Spars - Rigging - Keel stepped mast and anodized aluminum boom - Mast with main furling system - 2 sets of spreaders angled aft 10 degrees - Spinnaker pole - Partner fitting with articulated blocks for returning halyards to cockpit Standing Rigging - Stainless steel rigging: upper shrouds, lower shrouds, 2 backstays - Twin groove forestay with Profurl genoa furler - Lateral rigging with discontinuous rigging to first set of spreaders Running Rigging - 1 main halyard, 1 genoa halyard - 1 mainsheet with blocks, 2 genoa sheets - 1 maneuvering line for genoa furler - 1 line for furling main, 1 line for unfurling main - 1 boom halyard - Sails - Furling Dacron main - Furling Dacron genoa with UV protection strip Interior Accommodation - Cherry interior Companionway - 15 mm Altuglass sliding hatch - Twin wooden companionway doors - 2 cherry wood stained handrails - 4 molded wooden steps with anti-skid strip, on polyester engine cover - Hanging locker to starboard of companionway Salon Starboard - Nav. station - Chart table with chart stowage and molded wood fiddle - Bookshelves - Lockers - 12V, 16 functions hinged electrical panel - Hinged panel for onboard electronics - Large tool drawer - Drawers - Seat - Opening 15" x 8" porthole in coaming with curtain - Halogen lamp with independent switch - Red watch light Salon Area - Settee - Lockers along hull sides - Wood hull lining - Reading lights - Fixed 6'7" x 8" porthole with curtain - Vent To Starboard - Raised deck salon for panoramic visibility - Shaped settee with cushions with 5.5" thick, medium density foam and backrests - Salon table with stainless steel base - Lockers and cupboards along hull sides - Wood hull lining - Lockers underneath settee - Halogen lighting with independent switch - Fixed porthole 6'3" x 10" with curtain - Opening Plexiglas panel in coachroof 23" X 23" with curtain - Padded deckhead lining - Bookcase - bar Galley in Port Gangway - Antium work surface with molded wood fiddle - Twin rectangular S-S sinks - Chopping board over sink - Hot - cold water mixer tap - Foot pump for icebox discharge - Trash bin - 3 sliding vegetable baskets - S-S oven with 3 burner gimbaled stove and S-S protection bar - Cutlery drawer - 2 cupboards to port, lockers along the side of hull - Top loading 2 compartment freezer - fridge,with 12V evaporator - 2 opening portholes 15" x 8" in coaming with curtains - Lighting by halogen lamps with independent switches and fluorescent tube - Dust box Aft Owner's Cabin - Central double bed 6'7" x 4'11", 4.7" thick mattress - 2 symmetrical hanging lockers - Stowage space - lockers along side of hull to port and starboard - Lockers - Step either side of the bed for easy access - Vanity - desk with mirror - Wood hull lining - Padded deckhead lining - 2 opening portholes 15" x 8" in coaming with curtains - 1 opening porthole 15" x 8" in transom with curtain - 1 opening porthole in aft coaming 27" x 8" with curtain - 2 dorade type vents - Lighting from halogen lights with independent switches and reading lights Aft Owner's Cabin Head - Compartment molded in one piece to be waterproof and easy to clean - Marine toilet with polyester lid - Bathroom accessories - S-S wash basin with hot - cold water mixer tap - Mirror - Cupboards - lockers - Stall shower with hot - cold water mixer tap - Electric pump for used water - 2 opening portholes in coaming 15" x 8" - Halogen lamp with fluorescent tube Forward Owner's Cabin - 6'3" x 4'7" double bed, 4.7" thick mattress - Drawer and lockers beneath bed - Hanging locker - Wood hull lining - Padded deckhead lining - 1 opening porthole in coaming (23" x 18") with curtain - 1 opening porthole in coaming (13" x 7") with curtain - Halogen lamps with independent switches and reading lights - 1 dressing table with mirror and shelves Forward Head Compartment - One piece molded compartment for waterproofing and easy maintenance - Marine toilet with polyester lid - Bathroom accessories - Wash basin with hot - cold mixer tap - Shower - Mirror, cupboard - Electric pump for discharge of water - Opening porthole in coaming 23" x 18" - Fluorescent tube lighting Engine Compartment - Engine 50 hp diesel - Single lever engine control - Engine chassis integral with hull liner - Engine control panel in cockpit - Engine compartment insulated by lead foam - Space for generator in engine compartment - 53 gal. fuel tank - Fuel - water filter on fuel circuit - Stainless steel shaft protected by skeg - Triple bladed prop Electrical Circuit - 12V Electrical circuit - 2 - 125 amp batteries for service with circuit breaker - 1 - 95 amp engine battery with circuit breaker - 110V-220V 45 amp H battery charger - 12V 16 function Electrical panel with 12V plug - Options conduits - Overhead halogen lighting, reading lights and fluorescent tubes - Cockpit lighting - Navigation lights - Masthead light - Deck spot - 110V-220V shore power plug (specify when ordering) - Electrical panel 110V-220V (specify when ordering) - 4 - 110V-220V sockets (specify when ordering) Water Circuit - Manual bilge pump - Electric bilge pump - 132 gal. fresh water capacity in 2 rigid tanks with hull liner - Valves for tank selection - 11 gal. water heater run off engine and shore power - Pressurized fresh water unit with compression tank - 2 electric discharge pumps for showers Propane Circuit - Box for propane bottles (2 bottles) in side lockers with air vent (conforming to US regulations) - Circuit breaker Miscellaneous - Certificate of Individual Bureau Veritas approval - Maintenance kit - Owner's manual - Owner's briefcase. Oceanis 40CC Optional Equipment - Teak interior - Teak decks - Forward cockpit steering position - Lewmar electric 30EST maneuvering winch - Polyester coachroof dodger - Fixed davits - Engine driven refrigerator - Ardic heating with 3 outlets - Gennaker - Gennaker gear SAILBOAT IS LOCATED IN NEW ROCHELLE NY SAILBOAT IS ON LAND FOR WINTER STORAGE BUT IT CAN BE PUT IN THE WATER FOR POTENTIAL BUYER......

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Step-By-Step Guide: How to Build a Wooden Sailboat – Complete DIY Tutorial

Alex Morgan

Building a wooden sailboat is a rewarding and fulfilling endeavor that allows you to create your own vessel for sailing adventures. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a woodworking enthusiast, constructing a wooden sailboat requires careful planning, attention to detail, and a love for craftsmanship. This comprehensive guide will take you through the step-by-step process of building a wooden sailboat, from choosing the right design and gathering the necessary materials to assembling the framework, building the deck and cabin, and installing the sails and rigging. We will also discuss the finishing touches and regular maintenance required to keep your wooden sailboat in optimal condition for years of enjoyment on the water. Let’s dive into the world of wooden sailboat construction and embark on this exciting journey together.

Key takeaways:

Key takeaway:

• Choosing the right design and plans is crucial: Research different sailboat designs and select suitable plans based on your skill level to ensure a successful project.
• Gather the necessary materials and tools: Pay attention to wood selection and preparation, as well as acquiring the tools and equipment needed for building your wooden sailboat.
• Attention to detail in the construction process is important: Prepare and assemble the framework carefully, focusing on lofting, laying out the keel, constructing the ribs, and the hull structure to ensure a sturdy and reliable sailboat.

Choosing the Right Design and Plans

When it comes to building a wooden sailboat, one of the crucial steps is choosing the right design and plans. In this section, we’ll take a deep dive into the world of sailboat designs and explore the vast array of options available. From researching different sailboat designs to selecting plans that match your skill level, we’ll guide you through the exciting process of bringing your wooden sailboat dream to life. So, hop aboard and let’s set sail on this exhilarating journey of craftsmanship and adventure.

Researching Different Sailboat Designs

When conducting research on sailboat designs, it is important to take into account a variety of factors in order to select the most suitable design. One of the primary considerations is whether you prefer a monohull or a multihull sailboat. Monohulls are more commonly found and offer superior performance when sailing upwind, whereas multihulls provide both stability and speed.

Another aspect to consider is your level of sailing experience. If you are a beginner, it is advisable to seek out designs that are easier to handle and forgiving. On the other hand, experienced sailors may gravitate towards performance-oriented designs that are ideal for racing or long-distance cruising.

It is crucial to think about how you intend to use the sailboat. Are you looking for a day sailer , a cruiser , or a racing boat ? Each design comes with its own set of distinctive features and characteristics.

Determining the appropriate size of the sailboat is another crucial step, which should be based on the number of people and activities you plan to have on board. You must also decide whether you prefer an open cockpit or an enclosed cabin .

To find the perfect sailboat design that aligns with your sailing goals and preferences, it is imperative to thoroughly research various options and take into consideration all of these factors. By doing so, you will be able to make an informed decision and select the ideal sailboat design.

Selecting Suitable Plans for Your Skill Level

When it comes to building a wooden sailboat, it is crucial to select suitable plans that match your skill level. This is important as it ensures that you have the necessary knowledge and expertise to effectively complete the construction. In order to help you with this, here is a table that outlines the different skill levels and the corresponding plans:

Choosing the right plans for your skill level is essential as it enables you to navigate the construction process smoothly, avoid any complications, and ultimately achieve the desired result. It is crucial to honestly evaluate your woodworking skills and then select plans that align with your abilities. Keep in mind that building a wooden sailboat demands patience , attention to detail , and a willingness to learn and improve your woodworking skills.

As a pro tip, if you are a beginner, it is advisable to start with simpler plans and gradually work your way up to more complex projects. This allows you to gain experience and confidence in your woodworking abilities over time. So always remember to select suitable plans for your skill level and enjoy the process of building your wooden sailboat.

Gathering the Necessary Materials and Tools

When it comes to building a wooden sailboat, gathering the necessary materials and tools is key . In this section, we’ll dive into the exciting world of selecting and preparing the right wood for your sailboat, as well as the essential tools and equipment you’ll need to bring your project to life. So, start sharpening your creativity and let’s sail away into the realm of wooden boat construction!

Wood Selection and Preparation

Incorporating the provided keywords naturally in the provided text:

1. Conduct research on the different types of wood used in boatbuilding, such as mahogany , teak , or oak . This will help you make an informed decision regarding the most suitable wood for your sailboat.

2. Determine the specific requirements of your sailboat design in order to guide your wood selection process. Each design may have different needs and preferences when it comes to the type of wood to be used.

3. Take into consideration the durability and resistance to rot of the wood options available. This is crucial to ensure the longevity and overall quality of your sailboat. Choosing a wood that can withstand exposure to water and other elements is essential.

4. Look for straight , dry , and defect-free wood. This will contribute to the structural integrity of your sailboat. Any defects or irregularities in the wood may compromise its strength and performance.

5. Calculate the amount of wood needed based on the specific design and measurements of your sailboat. This will help you estimate the quantity of wood required for the construction process.

6. Mill or cut the wood into the required dimensions and shapes as outlined in the sailboat design. This step is crucial for achieving the desired structure and appearance of your sailboat.

7. Prior to assembly, it is important to sand the wood surfaces thoroughly. This will remove any rough edges or splinters, ensuring a smooth and safe finish.

8. Apply a protective coating or sealant to the wood in order to prevent water damage. This will help preserve the wood and extend its lifespan .

By following these steps, you can ensure that the wood selected and prepared for your sailboat construction is suitable and of high quality.

Tools and Equipment Needed for the Project

When embarking on the construction of a wooden sailboat, it is crucial to have the appropriate tools and equipment to ensure successful completion.

To accurately measure and obtain precise alignment and dimensions, essential measuring tools such as a tape measure , combination square , and level are indispensable.

For shaping wooden components, cutting tools like a circular saw or table saw , jigsaw , and hand saw are necessary.

Joinery tools, including a chisel set , mallet or hammer , and drill with different-sized bits, are vital for smoothly joining parts together.

To achieve a polished finish, sanding and finishing tools such as sandpaper with varying grits, sanding blocks , and a random orbital sander are crucial.

Additionally, brushes and rollers are required for the application of finishes.

When it comes to safety, it is imperative to prioritize the use of safety goggles , ear protection , a dust mask , and work gloves to ensure personal protection during the construction process.

When selecting tools and equipment, it is essential to invest in high-quality items that are specifically designed for the tasks involved in wooden sailboat building.

By doing so, not only will efficiency be maximized, but the overall quality of the finished boat will also be greatly enhanced.

Preparing and Assembling the Framework

As we delve into the world of building a wooden sailboat, we now find ourselves in the exciting phase of preparing and assembling the framework. In this section, we’ll discover the essential steps that go into setting up the lofting and laying out the keel , as well as the intricacies of constructing the ribs and hull structure. Get ready to immerse yourself in the hands-on process of bringing this magnificent vessel to life!

Setting Up the Lofting and Laying Out the Keel

To properly set up the lofting and lay out the keel for a wooden sailboat, it is important to follow these steps in a systematic manner:

• Firstly, prepare the lofting area by clearing a large, flat space where the plans and measurements will be placed.
• Next, securely attach the keel stock to the lofting platform, making sure it is both level and aligned with the boat’s centerline.
• Using battens, rulers, and pencils, transfer the measurements and lines from the boat plans onto the lofting platform.
• Ensure the accuracy of the waterlines, buttock lines, and other reference lines on the lofting platform by drawing them according to the measurements provided in the boat plans.
• Utilizing the dimensions indicated in the plans, measure and mark the positions of the keel, stem, and transom on the lofting platform.
• Thoroughly examine and adjust all lines and measurements to guarantee their accuracy.
• Identify the locations where any additional frames, bulkheads, or structural elements will connect to the keel, by marking them accordingly.
• Prior to proceeding, double-check all marks and measurements to ensure their accuracy.

The process of setting up the lofting and laying out the keel is an integral step in the construction of a wooden sailboat. It serves as the foundation and reference points for the boat’s overall structure. It is crucial to pay close attention to detail and maintain accuracy throughout the build. By following these steps, you will be on your way to constructing your very own wooden sailboat.

Constructing the Ribs and Hull Structure

When constructing the ribs and hull structure of a wooden sailboat, follow these steps:

– Measure and cut the ribs: Use the plans as a guide to mark and cut the dimensions on the wood. Cut the ribs accurately.

– Attach the ribs to the keel: Position and attach the cut ribs evenly along the keel using marine epoxy and screws.

– Install chines and stringers: Attach the chines to the bottom edge of the boat and install the stringers along the sides for strength.

– Attach the planking: Cut and fit planks to cover the rib and stringer structure, securing them tightly.

– Reinforce the joints: Apply epoxy and fiberglass tape over the joints to strengthen the structure.

– Shape the hull: Use tools to shape and smooth the hull, paying attention to fairing for optimal hydrodynamics.

– Apply a protective finish: Coat the hull and ribs with marine-grade varnish or epoxy for durability.

– Perform a thorough inspection: Check for defects, cracks, or imperfections and make necessary repairs before moving forward.

The process of constructing wooden sailboats has evolved over time, combining traditional techniques with modern materials and tools. Craftsmanship, attention to detail, and an understanding of wood’s properties are still essential in constructing the ribs and hull structure. This blend of artistry and engineering ensures sailboats can withstand the demands of the sea while providing a smooth and enjoyable sailing experience.

Building the Deck and Cabin

Let’s dive into the exciting world of building a wooden sailboat! In this section, we’ll focus on the crucial element of constructing the deck and cabin. Get ready to explore the process of creating the deck framework and adding those essential interior features . From laying the foundation to crafting a cozy cabin space , we’ll uncover the key steps and considerations for bringing your wooden sailboat to life. So, grab your tools and let’s set sail on this exhilarating construction journey !

Creating the Deck Framework

When creating the deck framework for a wooden sailboat, follow these steps:

• Measure and mark the desired deck size and shape on the boat’s frame.
• Cut and shape the wooden planks or panels to match the marked measurements.
• Align the planks or panels horizontally across the frame, ensuring they are straight and evenly spaced.
• Secure the planks or panels to the frame using screws or nails, ensuring tight fastening.
• Add additional support beams or joists underneath the deck for added strength and stability.
• Sand the deck surface to create a smooth and even finish.
• Apply a weather-resistant sealant or paint to protect the deck from moisture and UV damage.
• Install necessary features or fixtures on the deck, such as hatches, cleats or railings.

Pro-tip: Enhance the deck’s strength and durability by adding epoxy or marine adhesive between the joints before securing the planks or panels.

Installing the Cabin and Interior Features

When building a wooden sailboat, it is important to pay attention to every step, including the installation of the cabin and interior features. To install these features, follow the following steps:

1. First, measure and cut the materials for the cabin walls, floor, and ceiling.

2. Next, securely fit the cabin walls in place.

3. Then, attach the floorboards to the cabin base using screws or nails.

4. Align and install the cabin ceiling.

5. If desired, add insulation for extra comfort.

6. Attach interior features such as cabinets, storage compartments, and seating areas.

7. Install windows and hatches to allow for natural light and ventilation.

8. Properly wire the cabin for electricity, ensuring that lights and outlets are installed and functioning.

9. Finish the interior by sanding and applying a protective coat of varnish or paint.

10. Ensure that all installations meet safety standards.

Precision and attention to detail are key when installing the cabin and interior features of a wooden sailboat. By carefully measuring, cutting, and fitting each component, you can ensure a secure fit. It is important to optimize the layout and functionality of the interior features to create a comfortable living space with ample storage. The addition of windows and hatches will enhance comfort and enjoyment by providing natural light and ventilation . If electricity is needed, proper wiring is essential to ensure necessary lighting and power outlets. Finishing the interior with a protective coat of varnish or paint will not only enhance aesthetics but also provide durability.

Remember, the goal is to create a cozy retreat for sailors, so it is important to put in the necessary effort to install the cabin and interior features correctly.

Installing the Sails and Rigging

Set sail with confidence as we dive into the exciting world of installing the sails and rigging for your wooden sailboat. Discover the key considerations in choosing the perfect sails and master the art of setting up and adjusting the rigging. With expert tips and tricks , this section will equip you with the knowledge to navigate the waters with ease and experience the thrill of sailing your wooden masterpiece .

Choosing the Right Sails

When choosing sails for your wooden sailboat, consider the following factors:

– Type of sailing: Determine if you plan to cruise , race , or do both. Different sails are designed for specific purposes.

– Boat size: The size of your sailboat determines the size and number of sails you need. Larger boats require bigger sails , while smaller boats may need fewer and smaller sails .

– Wind conditions: Consider the typical wind conditions in your sailing areas. Different sails perform better in light winds , heavy winds , or various wind conditions.

– Sail material: The material of the sails affects durability and performance. Material choices include Dacron , laminate , and nylon . Each material has different trade-offs between longevity, performance, and cost.

– Reefing options: If you sail in varied or unpredictable wind conditions, choose sails with reefing options. Reefing allows you to adjust the sail area for stronger winds, improving control and safety.

– Manufacturer reputation: Research sail manufacturers for their reputation and reliability. Read reviews, seek recommendations, and consider warranty and customer support.

By considering these factors, you can make an informed decision when choosing sails for your wooden sailboat. Remember, the right sails greatly impact your sailing experience, so take your time and choose wisely.

Setting Up and Adjusting the Rigging

When setting up and adjusting the rigging of a wooden sailboat, it is important to follow these steps to ensure proper and safe rigging.

To start, attach the mast to the deck using a mast step or mast partner for stability and support. This will provide the foundation for the rigging.

Next, secure the standing rigging , which includes the shrouds and stays , to the mast. This will help distribute the forces from the sails and ensure the stability of the mast.

Connect the forestay to the bow of the sailboat. This will keep the mast in line and control the position of the headsail.

To counteract forces from the headsail and maintain rigging tension, attach the backstay to the stern of the boat.

Use turnbuckles or rigging screws to adjust the tension in the standing rigging. This will ensure proper alignment and support of the mast.

Install the running rigging , including halyards and sheets , to control the position and tension of the sails.

Before and during sailing, it is important to regularly check the tension in the rigging to ensure performance and safety.

Make any necessary adjustments to the rigging during sailing in order to optimize the shape of the sails and enhance the performance of the boat.

By following these steps, you will be able to properly set up and adjust the rigging of your wooden sailboat, allowing for safe and enjoyable sailing experiences.

Finishing Touches and Maintenance

When it comes to completing your wooden sailboat and keeping it in top shape, this section has got you covered. We’ll dive into the art of applying exquisite finishes to the hull and deck, giving your sailboat a stunning appearance. And don’t worry, we won’t neglect the nitty-gritty details of regular maintenance and care, ensuring your wooden vessel remains seaworthy for years to come. So, let’s get ready to add those finishing touches and keep your sailboat sailing smoothly !

Applying Finishes to the Hull and Deck

When building a wooden sailboat, applying finishes to the hull and deck is crucial for durability and aesthetic appeal. Here are the steps to follow:

1. Prepare the surfaces: Sand down rough spots, fill in cracks and imperfections, and ensure a smooth and clean surface.

2. Choose the right finish: Consider the type of wood and desired look. Varnish provides a glossy and traditional appearance, while paint offers different colors and styles.

3. Apply the primer: Enhance adherence and create an even surface for the final coat by applying a primer.

4. Apply the finish: Use a brush or roller to apply the chosen finish coat to the hull and deck. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for drying times and application techniques.

5. Allow for drying and curing: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for drying and curing to ensure the finish is fully set and provides maximum protection.

6. Inspect and touch up: After drying, inspect the hull and deck for missed spots or imperfections. Touch up any areas that require additional finish for a seamless and polished look.

By following these steps and applying finishes properly, you can protect and enhance the hull and deck of your wooden sailboat, ensuring it looks beautiful and lasts for many years.

Regular Maintenance and Care for Your Wooden Sailboat

Regular maintenance and care for your wooden sailboat is crucial for its longevity and performance. Here are the steps to follow:

1. Inspect the hull and deck for damage like cracks or rot. Promptly repair any issues to prevent further damage.

2. Clean the boat regularly with mild detergent and freshwater to remove dirt, salt, and grime that can accumulate over time.

3. Apply a protective coating to the hull and deck using marine-grade varnish or paint to prevent water penetration and protect against UV damage.

4. Check the rigging and sails for wear or damage. Replace worn-out lines or rigging components for safe sailing.

5. Inspect wooden components such as the mast, boom, and rudder for rot or decay. Replace or repair as necessary to maintain structural integrity.

6. Keep the interior of the sailboat clean and dry to prevent mold and mildew growth. Use a dehumidifier if needed.

7. Regularly check and maintain the boat’s systems , including electrical, plumbing, and navigation equipment. Address any issues promptly.

8. Store the wooden sailboat in a suitable location, such as a covered boat dock or boatyard, when not in use. Protect it from extreme weather conditions.

Pro-tip: Establish a regular maintenance schedule and keep a detailed record of all maintenance and repairs. This will help you stay organized and ensure your wooden sailboat remains in optimal condition.

Some Facts About How To Build A Wooden Sailboat:

• ✅ Building a wooden sailboat can take approximately 100 hours over a span of 3 months. (Source: Instructables)
• ✅ A wooden sailboat can cost around $1,000 to build. (Source: Instructables)
• ✅ The boat is typically built from 4×8 sheets of plywood and measures 8 feet in length. (Source: Instructables)
• ✅ Various tools such as a pull-saw, table saw, router, sander, and drill are needed for building a wooden sailboat. (Source: Instructables)
• ✅ Fiberglass cloth, epoxy resin, screws, and other materials are used to reinforce and waterproof the wooden sailboat. (Source: Instructables)

Frequently Asked Questions

1. how long does it take to build a wooden sailboat.

Building a wooden sailboat typically takes about 100 hours spread over approximately 3 months.

2. What materials are needed to build a wooden sailboat?

To build a wooden sailboat, you will need 4×8 sheets of plywood, epoxy resin, oak plywood, various tools (such as a pull-saw, table saw, router, etc.), fiberglass cloth, screws, fasteners, and other supplies like glue, clamps, and mixing cups.

3. How much does it cost to build a wooden sailboat?

The estimated cost of building a wooden sailboat is around $1,000, including the materials and tools needed for the project.

4. Can I learn to build a wooden sailboat if I have no prior experience?

Yes, building skills can be learned gradually, and mistakes can be avoided along the way. With patience and guidance from boat building plans, even beginners can successfully build a wooden sailboat.

5. How long is the wooden sailboat described in the reference?

The wooden sailboat described in the reference is an 8-foot long pram, featuring classic lines and made from 4×8 sheets of plywood.

6. Can I launch the wooden sailboat in any body of water?

Yes, the wooden sailboat is designed to be light enough to fit in a small pickup truck or be rolled to a local lake on a dolly, making it suitable for various bodies of water.

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Affordable Sailboats You Can Build at Home

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

September 13, 2023

‍ Key Takeaways

• There are many sailboats that anyone can build from home depending on tastes
• Budget will be the biggest deciding factor on a majority of the process
• Consider kits that come with most of what you need or choose ones that are all-inclusive
• Design complexities and new materials may make the building time process longer
• Plan the best you can ahead of time to save money and your working hours

‍ Buying a sailboat can be expensive, but building your own can save you money. So what are sailboats you can build from home?

Sailboats that you can build from home will likely be a small boat under 20 feet. These could be from many different boat suppliers such as B&B Yachts, Brooks Boat Designs, and Chase Small Craft. Boat plans will vary based on your budget and how much time you have on your hands.

Based on my previous experience, building your own boat will take much longer than if a professional were to do it. You also have to be able to study plans, consider various sailboat designs, and have tons of supplies such as fiberglass tape or fiberglass cloth. On top of that, you will also have to be good with your hands.

Table of contents

‍ Top 10 Affordable Sailboats Anyone Can Build at Home

Building your own pocket cruiser or other styles from boat plans is an impressive feat, as this will need dedicated time and money to assure your boat sails safely. Boat building takes a lot of patience as well, especially since this will not be completed in a fast manner.

Finding boat plans and materials that fit your budget will be key to being able to complete the project. The time it takes to complete these projects will vary on your overall experience and needs. Below are 10 of the most affordable sailboats that you can build in the comfort of your home.

B&B Yachts

B&B Yachts have 14 different boat plans you can choose from to find the boat of your desires. Their shop is located along the Bay River in North Carolina where they construct all of the kits and have a 100 foot dock to show off your project once you complete it.

One popular model to check out is their Core Sound 15, as it is the perfect size for those wanting to build a modest size boat for a handful of people on board. Their website features some videos of completed projects and the plans or kits for purchase.

• 14 different models to choose from plus some dinghies
• Various monohull and multihull options
• Friendly customer service with attractive prices
• Might be too many options for some that are indecisive
• Not ideal for those wanting to have a motor sailer

Brooks Boat Designs

Brooks Boat Designs has a handful of options to consider for your next sailboat building project. They are located in Brookline, Maine and give the option to buy the kits or have them build one from scratch for you. They have plenty of knowledge, so do not be shy to ask about modifications or custom features you are looking for.

Depending on your specifics, they can attempt to accommodate some of their plans to help fit your desired outcome. By checking out their site, you can see many examples of their construction in progress and what the boats will look like when completed.

• Offers a variety of kits
• Plans vary around $50 and up, while materials will obviously add more costs
• Some plans can be rowing boats that can convert to sailboats
• Might take a while to hear back from them, as their contact section is a little outdated
• Their plans may not accommodate a ton of extras for your taste

Chase Small Craft

Chase Small Craft offers a simple process for building boats. Their kits are equipped with everything you need and will help save you time than just buying the materials outright and other parts you could need. This is arguably one of the best bang for buck instances if you want to save time and money searching for pieces to your boat.

They are located in Saco, Maine and will ship everything to your home from there. All the necessary materials are included and all you need are the proper tools and working space.

• All-inclusive kits with what you need
• Tons of knowledge on their site for boat building
• Easy process to order and customize
• Complete kits can range over $20,000 for larger boats
• Kits may take up to eight weeks to ship out

Chesapeake Light Craft

You can expect high-quality boat kits from Chesapeake Light Craft . They feature 18 different sailboat kits that vary from eight to 20 feet in length. This should be more than enough to find one for you if you are newer to boat building.

They also have a wide variety of other kits in addition to the sailboat, in the event that you wanted to order a small kayak or paddleboard in addition to your sailboat. The prices vary considerably when considering a small or larger boat, so check the complete list of options to in order to potentially fit your needs.

• Plenty of sailboat offerings to choose from
• Different beautiful hull form options to consider
• Easy to build and perfect for sailing
• Only has basic materials needed for kit, so you may need to purchase other items
• Has epoxy shipping fee no matter if you pick up item

Dudley Dix Yacht Design

Dudley Dix Yacht Design has an extensive list of plywood and single skin sailing boat options. They have plenty of sail plans and kits to consider depending on your goals. These follow a classic look for sailboats, which are aesthetically pleasing.

If you are wanting one to accommodate a small family, they have more than plenty to look through. The cost is not as bad compared to others, but keep in mind that you may need to throw in your own supplies or specific tools to get the job done.

• Plans start at $30 and range up to $7,500 or more for kits
• More than enough of options to consider
• Affordable variety of sailboat offerings
• Might be too many options for those new to sailing
• Most are wood without the use of aluminum or steel

Farrier Marine

If you are in search of a multihull to build, then Farrier Marine is what you need. They offer a unique folding catamaran that is trailerable and give you the option to build it yourself. This not only makes it an appealing option, but anyone can take this multihull boat wherever they want with ease.

It features a thorough construction guide once you receive all of the materials. These also come with stainless steel fasteners and an aluminum mast for high-quality materials. Pricing will vary since you must request which model type you are considering.

• Ability to build a unique catamaran
• In-depth construction guide to help
• Easily handled and trailerable
• Price may be too high
• Limited offerings since only a few multihull options

Glen-L Marine Designs

Building a boat from Glen-L Marine Designs can save you time and money. They feature an easy system to order and receive the kits, as well as an in-depth guide to building them. This is an appealing option compared to most boat kit sellers.

The beauty about Glen-L is that anyone can build these from scratch, so you do not have to be the best boat builder in the world to get it done. They offer guides and helpful insights from their team to point you in the right direction. Plans vary around $15, while kits can range well over $1,000 depending on boat size.

• Nearly 50 designs to choose from
• Complete guide to help anyone build it
• Plenty of price points depending on size
• Might be overwhelming with the amount of options
• Could take a while to get parts since they are popular

John Welsford Boat Designs

John Welsford Boat Designs invites new and veteran boat builders that want a taste of quality small wooden boats. The boat plans are designed to meet your specifications and are catered to your desires.

There are seven sailboat designs to choose from so you do not feel overwhelmed in the process. However, they do not sell kits all the time, so you would need to have the materials or be on the lookout for the best prices when they are available.

• Seven sailboat plans with different sizes
• Quality boat builder and supporting community
• In-depth knowledge provided to you when you order
• Might be too small of boat size
• Kits are not always available

Iain Oughtred

There are plenty of options on the wooden boat store, but you should narrow down your search for Iain Oughtred’s line of sailboat kits and plans. There are 25 different plans to choose from, which should accommodate most everyone looking to build their own boat.

While they do offer some kits, they do not routinely offer sailboat kits. You would need to purchase all of the materials if you are considering one of their sail plans. Keep this in mind if you are considering, as you would need to hunt down the parts yourself.

• 25 different sailboat plans to look through
• Various sizes to contemplate for you sailing needs
• Prices will vary but are not bad compared to market
• No sailboat kits, only plans
• Newer boat builders might find too many options unappealing

Paul Gartside Boat Builder and Designer

Gartside Boats is a boat builder company based in Long Island, New York that showcases a variety of boats from traditional and newer methods of boat building. Within that variety, they have boat plans meant for six to 50 feet in length.

With an abundance of options, you will need to contact them regarding prices and any customizable options. Kits may vary as well, as they typically design in-house and build for you.

• Experienced boat designer that can accommodate with custom plans
• Many options are trailerable
• Can have plans for up to a 50 foot boat
• You will need to contact them for prices
• Customized options may make process more complicated for new boat builders

How Much Does it Cost to Build a Sailboat at Home?

As you have likely already done so, the math between building your own boat and buying one may be a huge difference. Likewise, you may even enjoy the challenge of taking an older boat that is gutted and restoring with parts from a kit to build one new again.

But how much does it cost exactly to build a boat from the comfort of your own garage or workshop? The prices are going to vary dramatically depending on your situation and material needed to get the job done. In addition, the time that it takes to complete this will also vary.

Sail plans are rather inexpensive if you are aiming to build a small boat. These plans allow you to see the workings of the boat design and what you need to build the boat.

Without these plans, you will not know the exact details of the design and it can cause major issues with the boat’s hull or other areas of the boat. Think of these as the backbone or instructions of the boat’s infancy before being built.

Price Per Square Foot

You should assume to pay anywhere between $300 to $600 per square foot if you are interested in building a boat. Buying a kit outright can be a good way to save time, but oftentimes these do not come with everything you need.

Instead, you should try to source as much of the materials at the best price as possible. Thinking ahead is part of the process and you might be able to score a deal at a lumber yard or hardware store for parts.

Boat Designs Matter

The design of the boat will be much different from one boat to the next, regardless if they are the same size in length. If you are pondering boats that range anywhere between 16 and 20 feet, you should factor in the shape of the hull, any rigging, and various appendages.

Prices tend to increase when there are more complexities within the designs. If you are considering a kit with more details than others, you will also have to pay more for the designs on that as well.

Kits Can Differ

It is important to understand that all kits are not going to be the same. As you gander at sailboat kits online to stitch together, you need to thoroughly look over to see if you have everything you need before buying.

It would also be at your advantage to ask the seller if any additional parts or supplies are needed. This may change your dynamic on the kit buying process and you may pass up one for another if it has everything you need. An all-inclusive kit may cost several hundred, if not thousands, of dollars more to have the convenience of everything in the bundle.

Construction Approaches

Some boat plans may require you to have certain tools to get the job done. This means special saws or planers, which the average person simply does not have.

Purchasing specialty tools might be expensive upfront and hard to find depending on what it is. Your best bet would be to check locally for others trying to sell their tools or consider a boat plan that does not require extensive tools to finish the job.

How Long Does it Take to Build a Sailboat?

An easy to build sailboat could take a while to build from scratch. Many different variances come into play that are difficult to pinpoint for everyone. But how long is that exactly and how will your experience play into this?

A fun project to sail in the wind could take you several months to well over a year depending on the boat plan and how big your boat is going to be. In addition, the materials all need to be accounted for prior to starting in the event a hardware store does not have them in stock.

Time Varies

The time that passes for simple boat designs on small sailing vessels can be done in a few weeks. This is assuming you have everything you need and work non-stop around the clock.

Certain complex situations may make the process long, such as the difficulty of working with some materials. If you are a skilled laborer, it may take you half the time compared to a novice. The amount of time it can take will vary on your availability and skill level.

Planning ahead will undoubtedly offer the most time-saving features. It also helps if you can tackle parts of the project at your own pace.

Complexity of Design

The design of the boat may make the construction process longer. For example, it may take you longer to build a catamaran compared to a similar lengthed monohull.

More complex designs might require more materials, therefore making the process a bit longer to complete. Furthermore, you will also need more experience working with difficult designs and that will affect you more as a newbie.

Be sure to manage your expectations well and do not allow yourself to become too stressed over this fun project. If you can, seek expert boat building advice from a local builder or the company you purchased sail plans through.

Quality Materials

The quality of the materials will matter significantly when building a boat and will greatly affect the time it takes to construct it. Handling fiberglass or carbon fiber might require specialty tools, while wood also demands a certain level of craftsmanship.

If you are not skilled at working with the material at hand, it might affect the quality of the build and you may have to go back to fix mistakes. This will definitely add more time to your project, because mistakes are bound to happen with your first project.

To save time, consider adding the tools and materials throughout the year or as often as your budget allows. You may want to try testing your skills on fiberglass or other materials to get a feel for how to work with it.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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20 Best Small Sailboats for the Weekender

• By Mark Pillsbury
• Updated: August 4, 2021

In order to go cruising, most of us require a sailboat with a head, a galley, and bunks. The boat, likely a 30-footer and more often a 40-footer, will have electronics for navigation and entertainment, refrigeration if the trip is longer than a coastal hop, an engine for light wind, and, depending on our appetites for food and fun, perhaps a genset to power our toys and appliances.

To go sailing , however, all we really need is a hull, mast, rudder, and sail. To experience the pure joy of sheeting in and scooting off across a lake, bay, or even the open ocean, there’s nothing better than a small sailboat – we’re talking sailboats under 25 feet. You can literally reach out and touch the water as it flows past. You instantly feel every puff of breeze and sense every change in trim.

Some of the boats in this list are new designs, others are time-tested models from small sailboat manufacturers, but every one is easy to rig, simple to sail, and looks like a whole lot of fun either for a solo outing on a breezy afternoon or to keep family and friends entertained throughout your entire sailing season. This list is made up of all types of sailboats , and if you’re looking for a list of some of the best small sailboats for beginners, you’ll find exactly that here.

Any one of these popular boats could be labeled as a trailerable sailboat, daysailer, or even a weekender sailboat. And while most would be labeled as a one or two person sailboat, some could comfortably fit three or even four people.

Marblehead 22 Daysailer

If you have an eye for elegant lines and your heart goes pitter-patter over just the right amount of overhang beneath a counter transom, the Marblehead 22 daysailer, designed by Doug Zurn and built by Samoset Boatworks in Boothbay, Maine, will definitely raise your pulse. Traditional-looking above the waterline and modern beneath, the cold-molded hull sports a deep bulb keel and a Hall Spars carbon-fiber mast with a wishbone rig and square-top main. The 11-foot-9-inch cockpit can seat a crowd, and a small cuddy forward will let you stow your friends’ gear for the day. samosetboatworks.com

Catalina 22 Sport

Many a harbor plays host to an active fleet of Catalina 22s, one of the most popular small sailboats over the years, given its basic amenities and retractable keel, which allows it to be easily trailered. Recently, the company introduced the Catalina 22 Sport, an updated design that can compete with the older 22s. The boat features a retractable lead keel; a cabin that can sleep four, with a forward hatch for ventilation; and a fractional rig with a mainsail and a roller-furling jib. Lifelines, a swim ladder, and an engine are options, as are cloth cushions; vinyl cushions are standard. The large cockpit will seat a crowd or let a mom-and-pop crew stretch out and enjoy their sail. It’s clear why the Catalina 22 is one of the best sailboats under 25 feet. catalinayachts.com

With its large, open-transom cockpit and sloop rig, the Hunter 22 makes a comfortable daysailer for family and friends. But with its cuddy cabin, twin bunks, optional electrical system, opening screened ports, and portable toilet, a parent and child or a couple could comfortably slip away for an overnight or weekend. Add in the optional performance package, which includes an asymmetric spinnaker, a pole, and a mainsheet traveler, and you could be off to the races. The boat features a laminated fiberglass hull and deck, molded-in nonskid, and a hydraulic lifting centerboard. Mount a small outboard on the stern bracket, and you’re set to go. marlow-hunter.com

Not sure whether you want to race, cruise or just go out for an afternoon sail? Since 1958, sailors have been having a ball aboard the Uffa Fox/George O’Day-designed Daysailer. Fox, who in the 1950s was on the cutting edge of planning-dinghy design, collaborated with Fall River, Massachusetts boatbuilder O’Day Corp. to build the 16-foot Daysailer, a boat that features a slippery hull and a small cuddy cabin that covers the boat roughly from the mast forward. Thousands of Daysailers were built by various builders, and they can be found used for quite affordable prices. There are active racing fleets around the US, and new Daysailers are still in production today, built by Cape Cod Ship Building. capecodshipbuilding.com

BayRaider from Swallow Boats

Easy to rig and trailer, the BayRaider from England’s Swallow Yachts is a relative newcomer to the small-boat market in the United States. Nearly all of its 19 feet 9 inches is open cockpit, though a spray hood can be added to keep the forward sections dry. The BayRaider is ketch-rigged with a gunter-style mainmast. The topmast and mizzen are both carbon-fiber, which is an option for the mainmast as well. The BayRaider can be sailed with a dry hull in lighter conditions or with 300 pounds of water ballast to increase its stability. With the centerboard and hinged rudder raised, the boat can maneuver in even the thinnest water.

$28,900, (904) 234-8779, swallowyachts.com

Big fun can come in small packages, especially if your vessel of choice happens to be the 12 ½-foot Beetle Cat. Designed by John Beetle and first built in 1921, the wooden shallow draft sailboat is still in production today in Wareham, Massachusetts at the Beetle Boat Shop. With a draft of just 2 feet, the boat is well-suited for shallow bays, but equally at home in open coastal waters. The single gaff-rigged sail provides plenty of power in light air and can be quickly reefed down to handle a blow. In a word, sailing a Beetle Cat is fun. beetlecat.com

West Wight Potter P 19

With berths for four and a workable galley featuring a cooler, a sink, and a stove, West Wight Potter has packed a lot into its 19-foot-long P 19. First launched in 1971, this is a line of boats that’s attracted a true following among trailer-sailors. The P 19′s fully retractable keel means that you can pull up just about anywhere and go exploring. Closed-cell foam fore and aft makes the boat unsinkable, and thanks to its hard chine, the boat is reportedly quite stable under way. westwightpotter.com

NorseBoat 17.5

Designed for rowing and sailing (a motor mount is optional), the Canadian-built NorseBoat 17.5—one of which was spotted by a CW editor making its way through the Northwest Passage with a two-man crew—features an open cockpit, a carbon-fiber mast, and a curved-gaff rig, with an optional furling headsail set on a sprit. The lapstrake hull is fiberglass; the interior is ply and epoxy. The boat comes standard with two rowing stations and one set of 9-foot oars. The boat is designed with positive flotation and offers good load-carrying capacity, which you could put to use if you added the available canvas work and camping tent. NorseBoats offers a smaller sibling, the 12.5, as well; both are available in kit form.

$19,000, (902) 659-2790, norseboat.com

Montgomery 17

Billed as a trailerable pocket cruiser, the Montgomery 17 is a stout-looking sloop designed by Lyle Hess and built out of fiberglass in Ontario, California, by Montgomery Boats. With a keel and centerboard, the boat draws just under 2 feet with the board up and can be easily beached when you’re gunkholing. In the cuddy cabin you’ll find sitting headroom, a pair of bunks, a portable toilet, optional shore and DC power, and an impressive amount of storage space. The deck-stepped mast can be easily raised using a four-part tackle. The builder reports taking his own boat on trips across the Golfo de California and on visits to California’s coastal islands. Montgomery makes 15-foot and 23-foot models, as well. If you’re in search of a small sailboat with a cabin, the Montgomery 17 has to be on your wish list.

With long overhangs and shiny brightwork, the CW Hood 32 is on the larger end of the daysailer spectrum. Designers Chris Hood and Ben Stoddard made a conscious decision to forego a cabin and head in favor of an open cockpit big enough to bring 4 or 5 friends or family out for an afternoon on the water. The CW Hood 32 is sleek and graceful through the water and quick enough to do some racing, but keeps things simple with a self-tacking jib and controls that can be lead back to a single-handed skipper. A top-furling asymmetrical, electric sail drive and Torqeedo outboard are all optional. The CW Hood 32 makes for a great small family sailboat.  cwhoodyachts.com

Sun Cat from Com-Pac

Shallow U.S. East Coast bays and rock-strewn coasts have long been graced by cat boats, whose large, gaff-rigged mainsails proved simple and powerful both on the wind and, better yet, when reaching and running. The 17-foot-4-inch Sun Cat, built by Com-Pac Yachts, updates the classic wooden cat with its fiberglass hull and deck and the easy-to-step Mastender Rigging System, which incorporates a hinged tabernacle to make stepping the mast a one-person job. If you want a personal sailboat ideal for solo sailing, the Sun Can is a great choice. Belowdecks, the twin 6-foot-5-inch berths and many other features and amenities make this cat a willing weekender.

$19,800, (727) 443-4408, com-pacyachts.com

Catalina 16.5

The Catalina 16.5 sits right in the middle of Catalina Yachts’ line of small sailboats, which range from the 12.5 to the 22 Capri and Sport, and it comes in both an easy-to-trailer centerboard model and a shoal-draft fixed-keel configuration. With the fiberglass board up, the 17-foot-2-inch boat draws just 5 inches of water; with the board down, the 4-foot-5-inch draft suggests good windward performance. Hull and deck are hand-laminated fiberglass. The roomy cockpit is self-bailing, and the bow harbors a good-sized storage area with a waterproof hatch. catalinayachts.com

No roundup of best small sailboats (trailerable and fun too) would be complete without a mention of the venerable Hobie 16, which made its debut in Southern California way back in 1969. The company has introduced many other multihulls since, but more than 100,000 of the 16s have been launched, a remarkable figure. The Hobie’s asymmetric fiberglass-and-foam hulls eliminate the need for daggerboards, and with its kick-up rudders, the 16 can be sailed right up to the beach. Its large trampoline offers lots of space to move about or a good place to plant one’s feet when hanging off the double trapezes with a hull flying. The boat comes with a main and a jib; a spinnaker, douse kit, trailer, and beach dolly are optional features. hobiecat.com

Novice sailors or old salts looking for simplicity could both enjoy sailing the Hunter 15. With a fiberglass hull and deck and foam flotation, the boat is sturdily built. The ample freeboard and wide beam provide stability under way, and the heavy-duty rubrail and kick-up rudder mean that you won’t have to worry when the dock looms or the going grows shallow. Both the 15 and its slightly larger 18-foot sibling come standard with roller-furling jibs.

$6,900/$9,500 (boat-show prices for the 15 and 18 includes trailers), (386) 462-3077, marlow-hunter.com

Super Snark

Under various owners, the Snark brand of sailboats, now built by Meyers Boat Co., has been around since the early 1970s. The Super Snark, at 11 feet, is a simple, easily car-topped daysailer that’s fit out with a lateen rig and sail. Billed as unsinkable, the five boats in the company’s line are built with E.P.S. foam, with the external hull and deck vacuum-formed to the core using an A.B.S. polymer. The Super Snark weighs in at 50 pounds, and with a payload capacity of 310 pounds, the boat can carry two.

$970, (800) 247-6275, meyersboat.com

Norseboat 21.5

Built in Canada, the NorseBoat 21.5 is a rugged looking craft that comes in a couple of configurations: one with an open cockpit and small doghouse, and another with a smaller cockpit and cabin that houses a double berth for two adults and optional quarter berths for the kids. Both carry NorseBoat’s distinctive looking carbon fiber gaff-rigged mast with main and jib (a sprit-set drifter is optional), and come with a ballasted stub keel and centerboard. Because of its lightweight design, the boat can be rowed and is easily trailered.

$36,000 (starting), 902-659-2790, norseboat.com

Flying Scot

Talk about time-tested, the 19-foot Flying Scot has been in production since 1957 and remains a popular design today. Sloop rigged, with a conventional spinnaker for downwind work, the boat is an easily sailed family boat as well as a competitive racer, with over 130 racing fleets across the U.S. Its roomy cockpit can seat six to eight, though the boat is often sailed by a pair or solo. Hull and deck are a fiberglass and balsa core sandwich. With the centerboard up, the boat draws only eight inches. Though intended to be a daysailer, owners have rigged boom tents and berths for overnight trips, and one adventurous Scot sailor cruised his along inland waterways from Philadelphia to New Orleans.

Known primarily for its line of racing dinghys, RS Sailing also builds the 16-foot, 4-inch Venture, which it describes as a cruising and training dinghy. The Venture features a large, self-draining cockpit that will accommodate a family or pack of kids. A furling jib and mainsail with slab reefing come standard with the boat; a gennaker and trapeze kit are options, as is an outboard motor mount and transom swim ladder. The deck and hull are laid up in a fiberglass and Coremat sandwich. The Venture’s designed to be both a good performer under sail, but also stable, making it a good boat for those learning the sport.

$14,900, 203-259-7808, rssailing.com

Topper makes a range of mono- and multihull rotomolded boats, but the model that caught one editor’s eye at Strictly Sail Chicago was the Topaz Taz. At 9 feet, 8 inches LOA and weighing in at 88 pounds, the Taz is not going to take the whole crowd out for the day. But, with the optional mainsail and jib package (main alone is for a single child), the Taz can carry two or three kids or an adult and one child, and would make a fun escape pod when tied behind the big boat and towed to some scenic harbor. The hull features Topper’s Trilam construction, a plastic and foam sandwich that creates a boat that’s stiff, light, and durable, and shouldn’t mind being dragged up on the beach when it’s time for a break.

$2,900 (includes main and jib), 410-286-1960, topazsailboats.com

WindRider WRTango

WRTango, a fast, sturdy, 10-foot trimaran that’s easy to sail, is the newest portable craft from WindRider International. It joins a line that includes the WR16 and WR17 trimarans. The Tango features forward-facing seating, foot-pedal steering, and a low center of gravity that mimics the sensation of sitting in a kayak. It weighs 125 pounds (including the outriggers and carbon-fiber mast), is extremely stable, and has single-sheet sail control. The six-inch draft and kick-up rudder make it great for beaching, while the hull and outriggers are made of rotomolded polyethylene, so it can withstand running into docks and being dragged over rocks.

$3,000, 612-338-2170, windrider.com

• More: 21 - 30 ft , Boat Gallery , day sailing , dinghy , Sailboat Reviews , Sailboats , under 20 ft
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How to Build a Wood Sailboat

Introduction: How to Build a Wood Sailboat

I've been wanting to combine my two favorite hobbies - woodworking and sailing for a long time, so I thought I'd build a boat. It's got classic lines and looks so dazzling in the sunshine that people constantly stop me at the boat ramp to ask me about it. There's something unbelievably rewarding about building something like this from scratch. This is definitely a boat that is much better built than bought . Here's how I did it.

The boat takes about 100 hours to build. I did it over 3 months, working a little bit just about every day and full days when my schedule permitted.

It will take about $1,000 in total to build if you buy everything at full retail cost (not including tools you might need to buy), but you can spread that across the length of the project. For example, you only need to buy one $30 sheet of plywood at a time, take it home, draw out the parts (loft) that fit on just that sheet and cut them out. That will take a couple of hours right there. Some boating supply stores (chandleries) might let you setup an account which might give you a discount if you tell them you're building a boat.

All of the skills needed to build a sailboat can be learned slowly, one step at a time. For example, if you've never fiber-glassed plywood before, just practice on a small piece first to get your confidence up. This was my first boat build, so I did a lot of learn as you go . Not only am I going to show you the right way to successfully build your own sailboat, but I'm going to share with you the mistakes I made along the way to hopefully save you from repeating them.

The end result will be a very attractive little 8 foot long pram, that is easily made out of 4x8 sheets of plywood that is light enough to put in the back of a small pickup truck or roll down to the local lake on the optional dolly. Anything longer would require you to either make a scarf joint (which is a bit tricky) or buy longer sheets of plywood (which is considerably more expensive).

What you will need:

Boat building plans

8 panels of 1/4" oak plywood 4'x8'

Pencil, Sharpie, ruler, tape measure, yard stick, etc.

Long flexible straight edge

Box of 1" brad nails

2 gallons of epoxy resin

1 gallon of epoxy hardener - SLOW

1 quart silica thickener

5 quarts wood flour thickener

1" masking tape

Japanese pull-saw

Table saw (helps, but optional)

Round-over router bit

Flush trim router bit

Palm/random orbital sander

220 sanding discs

Combination square

Drill bit set

Drill bit extension

Basic hand tools

Small diameter wire or zip ties

Wire cutter

12 C-clamps - 3"

Mixing cups, mixing sticks, rubber/nitrile gloves

16' x 60" of 6oz fiberglass cloth

2" plastic spreader

Gallon of waterproof glue

Glue roller

Silicone bronze screws

Stainless steel fasteners

Small blocks

Gudgeon & pintle - dinghy size

Patience - large

Elbow grease - large

For more detailed explanations on each step and more specific info/reviews on the materials and parts used, check out my boat build blog: www.Midnight-Maker.com

Step 1: Cutting Out the Parts...

First, you'll need boat building plans. I purchased some very nice ones from a popular boat building website because I had a specific style in mind to build, a "pram". It's a Norwegian design with lots of buoyancy in the bow and building a pointy boat is a little more difficult. There are a bunch of free boat building plans (search "dinghy") online. Also, I wanted my boat parts to fit in a standard (read cheap) 4'x8' sheet of plywood. It also had to be light enough for me to load/unload/move myself. This boat weighs in at about 70 pounds. When on the custom dolly I built, it's very easy to move from the parking lot to the lake.

Next, you'll need to draw out the parts of the boat full-sized onto the plywood (lofting). I actually did this step on hardboard/masonite because I wanted to make templates of all the parts in case I ever wanted to build another one.

This step requires you to be very meticulous. Carefully transfer the measurements (offsets). They may or may not look correct because it's very non-intuitive to look at curved boat parts that are laying flat. Some parts actually bend the opposite way you think they should. To make the curves, I nailed a bunch of 1" brads into the panel and used a long, flexible straight edge (yard stick, etc.) bent to follow the curve, then I traced the curve with pencil/Sharpie. Once I removed the brads, I had perfectly smooth curves. Keep in mind that with the side panels that are symmetrical to both sides of the boat, only draw out one version and cut two stacked sheets at a time. This ensures the boat will not be lop-sided. Make sure to immobilize the two sheets together with screws outside of the boat parts or use double-sided tape/clamps, etc. to keep the parts registered properly.

Using a Japanese pull-saw allows you to control the cuts very carefully and it can follow the graceful curves. They cut on the pull stroke which means they're very easy to control. Make sure you leave a bit of your cut line, meaning cut just outside the line. This allows you a bit of a safety margin and you can always sand to the line to sweeten it up. This is where the elbow grease really kicks in. It takes hours to cut out the hull panels by hand, but it's worth it. I tried cutting the first part out with the jigsaw and it wandered all over the place and quickly cut inside the line before I knew it. Also, a jig saw blade can lean to one side which could mean two panels might not be the exact same shape. Using hand tools is a classic way to do woodworking and is a very gratifying process. With hand tools, things happen slow enough for you to be in total control, whereas power tools can quickly do unexpected damage. With the understanding that you're building a classic boat, using hand tools wherever possible is part of the philosophy.

The plans I bought were in metric and called for 6mm (1/4") and 9mm (3/8") plywood, but I wanted to make everything out of 1/4" plywood so the thicker parts in the plans were glued together with two layers of 1/4" (so at 1/2" they were a bit thicker than designed). I actually liked this because it made the boat feel sturdier and of course it was cheaper that way. The trade-off was that the boat would be a bit heavier.

For any of the parts that need to be doubled-up/laminated (e.g. the transoms), now is a good time to do that. Make sure you use "waterproof" glue instead of "weatherproof" glue like I did...

Spread a thin layer of glue over one of the "bad" sides (plywood usually has a good side and a bad side, glue bad sides together so good sides show on both outside faces), making sure it's completely covered (I used a special glue roller), then carefully place the other half on top. Align all of the edges together, then clamp them in place. Now put heavy things carefully on top to press the parts together. The glue should be dry in about 6 hours.

NOTE: It's considerably easier and safer to do any woodworking processes to the parts before you assemble the boat. This way, you can safely clamp pieces to the work bench and cut out handle holes, etc. Since my boat is a "lapstrake" design, I had to route a rabbet (groove located on the edge) carefully on the bottom edge of each side panel. This creates a shoulder for the parts to sit on, positively locating them while you're stitching the panels together. Likewise, the grab handles in the transoms are much easier to cut out before putting the boat together.

Also keep in mind that any mistake will be considerably more painful the further you are along in the build. For example, if I biff cutting out the grab handle holes while they're just loose pieces rather than when they're a permanent part of the boat, it's much easier to recover - just make another transom. If you had to patch a hole in the boat, it would be difficult and possibly never look perfect. No pressure...

Step 2: Assembling the Hull...

Once you have the bottom and sides cut out, you can start to "stitch and glue" the hull together. This is a technique used usually for smaller boats to be able to pull the hull form together without the need to build a frame or mold (which can take almost as long and as much wood as the boat itself).

I built a gauge stick to make sure my holes were perfectly spaced at 4" at 1/2" in from the plywood edge. It was 1" wide so either edge was the required 1/2" from the centerline. I worked my way down one side of each of each mated seam and drilled all those holes at once while the panels could lay flat on the bench. Make sure to use a backer block to prevent tear out on the back side, even with such a small drill bit.

With one mating panel drilled with a 1/16" drill bit, hold the mating panel in it's relative position. I used some spare twine to wrangle my panels into the proper orientation as I was marking them. Make a pencil mark where the mating hole should be, remove the pre-drilled panel and drill the second set of holes 1/2" in from the edge. This makes sure there's enough strength to hold the boat together.

The first pass on the stitches is just to get the hull together structurally. You can always go back and make the stitches fancier/tighter and tweak the position of the panels.

The stitches go from the inside out. Cut 6" lengths of wire and bend them into long, narrow U's that are the width of the distance between the holes. Stick the ends through the holes and carefully twist the tails together on the outside of the hull, making sure not to damage the plywood. If you're using zip ties, then the holes you drill will need to be bigger and you'll have to start on the outside, go in, turn around, then back out, then "zip".

Make sure your panels' rabbet shoulders are resting securely on the mating panel and carefully tighten all the stitches. For my boat, once I had two panels stitched to the bottom panel on each side, it was time to attach the transoms (ends). Once all of the exterior parts are stitched together, you should have something that looks like a boat. It will be a little rickety at this stage, but that's okay.

NOTE: In the photos I took of my build, you'll notice that the transom doublers (reinforcers) aren't in place. That was because I was following the instruction manual, but I think that was a mistake, so I highly recommend laminating (gluing) the doublers to the transoms before you stitch the boat together.

Step 3: Reinforcing the Hull Joints...

Now that the hull is stitched together, flip it over upside down. You'll be surprised at how stiff it is, considering how difficult it was to wrangle all those panels into position. Be careful, there's lots of poky wire ends sticking out all over the place.

I used a technique called "tabbing", meaning I made small, structural tabs from thickened epoxy that fit between the stitches, then I removed the stitches and made one long, larger fillet to connect the hull panels together.

Make sure your panels are perfectly aligned and tightened. I used a nipper to lop off most of the tails so they wouldn't get in the way, but that left very sharp spikes.

Make sure your boat is square. Take diagonal measurements from corner to corner, make sure the boat parts are parallel to each other, etc. because if there's a twist in your boat, the next step will make it permanent, which will affect the boat's performance.

Now mix up a batch of epoxy and silica thickener according to the manufacturer's directions (meaning each type of epoxy has a different resin to hardener ratio) until it's between the consistency of thick ketchup, but runnier than peanut butter (make sure to mix the 2 parts of epoxy together first very well before adding a thickener). Too thick and it won't fill the void, too thin and it'll run down inside the boat. Both are bad. I used a small syringe to inject the mix into the V intersection between the panels and checked underneath/inside to see if there were any runs.

Once the epoxy has partially set, use a glove wet with denatured alcohol to smooth out the "tabs" so they fit inside the V groove and don't extend above the intersection between the panels. This will give you good practice for the seams that will show on the finished boat. Be careful of the wire spikes.

Repeat this process for every seam on the hull. Let it cure overnight.

Once the tabs have cured, carefully remove the stitches. If the wire seems to be epoxied permanently to the hull, heat the wire with a lighter. That will soften the epoxy enough to pull the wire out. Be careful not to scorch the boat (you don't want a Viking funeral). Now repeat the thickened epoxy process for each overlap, except this time each seam will need to be one long, smooth joint. Let it cure overnight. This goes a long way in making the boat hull structural.

Step 4: ​Fiberglassing the Hull...

Now that you've got a permanent hull shape, it's time to make it waterproof and rugged. Fiberglass and resin over plywood is a tried and true Do It Yourself boat building technique which makes it strong and light.

Mask off the bottom panel and roll out your fiberglass cloth. Smooth the cloth out very carefully so as not to snag or tweak the fibers' orientation. Mix up an unthickened batch of epoxy (it will be the consistency of syrup). Starting at the stern, pour a small puddle of epoxy and spread it out nice and thin. You should be able to squeeze most of the epoxy out of the cloth, leaving only saturated cloth with no dry spots (which will appear white) but the weave should still be showing (meaning no extra epoxy is pooling). You should easily be able to see the wood grain through the cloth now.

Let the epoxy partially cure and using a razor, slice the dry fiberglass cloth away on the taped seam. Then remove the masking tape. Let the epoxy cure overnight.

Flip the hull over and mix up a batch of epoxy that is the consistency of peanut butter. I masked off the joint, but this step is optional, but keep in mind that it will be visible if you plan on finishing the interior bright (varnished wood). It's not as critical if you're painting the interior. With a plastic spreader, carefully make a large radius transition (fillet) between the bottom panel and the first side panel (garboard). Remove the masking tape when the epoxy mixture is partially cured and carefully scrape/wipe any unwanted mixture. It's much easier to remove now than having to sand it all off later. At this point, it's also a good time to fillet the transoms to the sides using 3/4" radius tabs between stitches and 1" finished fillets after you've removed the stitches. Let the fillets cure overnight.

Now, repeat the entire fiberglassing process on the inside. Except instead of just doing the bottom panel, make sure both the bottom and the garboard are fiberglassed. This is basically the waterline of the boat. The fillet should allow the fiberglass cloth to smoothly make the bend between boards. Remove the excess cloth when partially cured and let sit overnight. Some people fiberglass up onto the transom at this stage which will make the boat stronger, but that means you have to have already filleted the transoms to the bottom.

Step 5: Installing Interior Parts...

The bulkheads get stitched in place just like the panels. They will make the already stiff (and much heavier boat) completely structurally sound and push/pull the sides into their final shape. Then make 3/4" "tab" fillets between the stitches to lock them in place, remove the stitches and make long, smooth 1" fillets. The smaller fillets will get covered by the larger fillets. I used two different modified plastic spreaders to do this step. Each spreader was cut with a box knife and filed/sanded into its final shape.

While you're doing the previous steps, if you're in a time crunch, go ahead and build the daggerboard trunk. It's made of numerous parts that are pre-coated with a couple layers of unthickened epoxy, then glued together with silica-thickened epoxy. This makes it strong and waterproof as it will be below the waterline so must be completely waterproof.

The daggerboard trunk is the most important part of the boat, especially if you're making a sailboat version (this boat can easily just be used as a rowboat). Not only does it support the center seat (thwart), but it has to transfer all of the force from the sail to the water and if you run the boat aground, it takes all the shock loading from the daggerboard.

The daggerboard gets filleted into place like everything else. Make sure it's perfectly on the centerline of the boat as that will affect its sailing characteristics.

Next, let's make the daggerboard slot in the center thwart. I set up a straight edge with a spiral upcutting router bit. Make sure to enlarge the slots at the end of the center thwart so that it can fit around the fillets of the center bulkhead. Now is the time to ease the edges of the center thwart because you'll be sitting on it a lot, so it needs to be comfortable. Because it's so thin, I only routed the top edge of the center thwart that shows and just hand sanded the edge underneath (it's very problematic to use a round-over bit on the second side of a thin board). Paint all of the thwarts with three coats of unthickened epoxy, especially the undersides. Once the woodworking is done, the thwart can be epoxied into place with peanut butter (or you can jump to cutting the daggerboard slot in the bottom of the hull). Make sure the thwart fits snugly in place. Drop dollops of peanut butter on the top edges of the center bulkhead and daggerboard case and spread it out evenly (make sure none gets inside the slot to interfere with the daggerboard). Firmly seat the thwart (pun intended) into the goop and weight it down. Let it cure overnight.

While you've making sawdust, cut out the mast hole (partner) in the forward thwart by drilling holes in the four corners (for the square mast we're going to make), then cut out the sides, file it smooth, then round over the top edge with the router.

Any time after the bulkhead thwart fillets have cured, you can seal the airtank chambers. Paint the bottom, sides, inside of the bulkhead and transom up to the level where the thwart will be.

Step 6: Rail & Sailboat Parts...

There are several processes in this boat building instructable that can be done concurrently. While you're waiting for the epoxy on one part to cure, you can be doing woodworking or epoxying another part. This step illustrates that point. While you're waiting for the epoxy on the rub rail (outwale) to cure, you can be fabricating the sailboat accessories (e.g. daggerboard, rudder, tiller, spars, etc.).

In order for the outwale to be thick/strong enough to be effective, you'll need to laminate it in two strips on each side. You can't bend a single piece that thick around the curvature of the hull without either breaking the wood or softening it by steaming it which is a complicated process.

Take a strip that's half the final thickness and a little longer than the boat edge (I made mine a bit beefier), mix up some peanut butter with the colloidal silica and carefully spread it on the inside of the strip. Starting at the stern, clamp it in place, perfectly align it with the top edge of the plywood. Now you have a long, springy lever to bend the wood strip along the compound curve. It dips both vertically (shear), and bows out at the widest part of the boat (beam), then back in toward the bow. At least every foot, clamp it as you go, moving forward. More is better. Toward the bow, the strip will get stiffer as it gets shorter. Once clamped in place, scrape/wipe off all the squeeze-out. It's much easier to remove now than after it hardens. Let it sit overnight. You'll have to repeat this three more times, meaning this step takes four days (if you're using "slow" epoxy hardener).

During those four days that you're dealing with the outwale, you can make major progress on the sailboat parts. They're completely separate from the hull. If you're just making a rowboat, then you can skip making these parts.

The daggerboard and rudder are cut out and laminated. Then a bevel is ground onto the leading and trailing edges to make it slice through the water more efficiently. Then they're covered in layers of epoxy. The mast step is assembled. This has to be very strong because all of the force of the sail is transmitted to the boat through the mast step and the mast is a very long lever arm. The rudder cheek plates and tiller also have to be assembled similarly to the daggerboard case.

NOTE: Whenever there's a hole to be drilled into any part of the boat, you must take additional steps to make sure the water doesn't penetrate and damage the wood. The correct procedure is to drill an over-sized hole, completely fill that hole with epoxy (I usually put a piece of masking tape on the back side to act as a dam), then once the epoxy cures, re-drill in the center of the epoxy plug the correct hole size. That makes each hole in the boat possibly a 2 day process, so plan accordingly. You can also use 5 minute epoxy to knock out a bunch of holes quickly, but be careful, they're not kidding. This stuff gets rock hard very quickly and will permanently glue anything touching. This is exactly how you drill the hole for the pivot point for the rudder/cheek plate assembly. If the pin is 1/4", then drill 1/2" hole and fill that with epoxy. Now the 1/4" hole will fit nicely in the center and be completely waterproof.

Since all the parts need several coats of unthickened epoxy and they just about all have holes in them, I hung them up with some twine and painted them on all sides, one layer at a time, for several days. Make sure the rudder doesn't get too thick to fit inside the cheek plates.

Step 7: Making the Spars...

More sailboat parts you can make while waiting for other parts to cure are the spars, the structural parts that support the sail. The mast is another glue up. I used 3 - 1x3's of hemlock. A relatively soft wood, but with a nice tight grain with no knots. A mast would break at a knot, regardless of how strong the wood is. Using the waterproof glue, align the pieces as perfectly as you can then clamp up the assembly and let dry overnight. Then run it through a table saw to get the final dimensions. Use a router and a round-over bit to ease the edges. Cut to length and sand the sharp corners. It should fit easily, but snugly into the forward thwart.

The boom (bottom of sail) is a little more complicated. Cut out the gooseneck (boom pivot point) by using a hole saw first, making sure to clamp it securely to the workbench, then cut out the profile. This gets attached to another piece of 1x3 hemlock, after it's been cut to length and the edges have been rounded over.

The yard (top of sail) is easy. Just cut to length and round over the edges. Drill and fill any holes in the spars at this time. You'll need at least one hole on each end to lash the sail grommets to.

This time, everything gets covered with several coats of varnish, epoxy is not necessary. The varnish protects the wood from water and UV damage.

The reason we had to make at least the mast at this point is because we'll need it in the next step to establish the location of the mast step.

Step 8: Finishing Up the Interior & Exterior...

Once the outwales are successfully attached, trim them flush with the face of the transom(s). While you're at it, use a flush cut saw (with no sawtooth offset to mar the wood) to trim the sides flush with the transom. This will show you how well your injected silica mix worked earlier. Now you're ready to install the mast step.

The mast step must be precisely located on the floor (sole) of the boat to give the mast the proper angle (rake). This is very important because it directly affects the boat's ability to sail upwind. Using your mast, insert it into the forward thwart (partner) and into the mast step. With the mast at a 3° angle (mostly vertical but with a small, yet noticeable and graceful tilt toward the stern of the boat), trace the location of the mast step. Use a combination square to make sure it's perfectly aligned side to side (athwartship). You can now set the mast aside. Drill and fill holes in the bottom of the boat so that you can securely screw the mast step from the outside of the hull. The mast base must also be epoxied to the sole with peanut butter. After it's screwed into place but before the epoxy cures, make sure to test fit the mast again and verify the rake angle is correct. It would be a little messy at this point if you had to tweak it, but at least you wouldn't have to cut it off.

Now comes the most unpleasant part of the whole build. On your hands and knees, make a 1" radius fillet on the underside of every part in the boat. I didn't worry about making these pretty, just structural and water tight (these create the flotation tanks that keep the boat from sinking if you capsize). Let that cure overnight.

Next is the scariest part of the build, making the slot in the hull for the daggerboard. Using a drill bit extension, from the inside of the boat, reach down through the daggerboard case and drill a hole at each end of the slot through the bottom of the boat (make sure to use a backer board). Drill a couple holes in between, then take a jigsaw and connect the dots. This weakens the hull enough so that the router won't tear out any extra wood. Note, this step can easily be done prior to affixing the center thwart. Using a flush trim/laminate router bit, let the bearing run around the inside of the daggerboard case. This will make the hole in the hull perfectly match the slot. This is important because you don't want a shoulder on the inside for the daggerboard to hit and you don't want to damage the waterproof lining of the case. Last, ease the sharp edge of the daggerboard slot with the router and a small radius round-over bit.

The skeg must be cut to fit the curve of the hull (rocker), then using silicone bronze screws, attach it to the hull using the same drill and fill/peanut butter techniques. Make sure to snap a chalk line on the centerline of the boat for reference. Then make a 1" fillet where it meets the hull which will support the skeg and make it strong. The skeg keeps the boat tracking straight in the water. I optionally used some fiberglass cloth to cover the skeg and overlap onto the bottom to make the entire assembly stronger and more waterproof. The skeg will take the brunt of the abuse when launching, beaching, loading and unloading, etc. I also installed a stainless steel rubstrake on the aft end of the skeg with this in mind. In wooden boat building, silicone bronze screws are often used because they won't corrode when encapsulated like stainless steel screws can.

Install the skids parallel to the skeg. These are solid pieces of hardwood because they will also take a lot of abuse when the boat is sitting on shore, protecting the thin hull from rocks, etc. They get installed the same way as the skeg, although it's a little tough to bend the wood along the rocker. Scrape off the excess peanut butter once they're screwed in place.

I also installed the optional outboard motor pad at this point because I plan to use an electric trolling motor on the back to quietly putter around the lake in the evenings to relax with the family after work.

That should be the last parts that go into making the boat!

Step 9: Finishing the Hull...

Now comes the last dash to the finish line. One of the more tedious steps is that you now have to sand the entire boat. I actually built the entire boat inside, but for the sanding stage, I took her outside. Several hours of sanding all of the fillets nice and smooth. Everything will show in the finished product whether you paint the boat or leave it "bright" (unpainted). If you've been careful about cleaning up the peanut butter as you go, you should be able to sand the boat with mostly 220 grit. Be careful not to sand through the thin veneer of the plywood. After the sanding is done (make sure to use a dust mask), vacuum the entire boat and then wipe it down with a tack cloth to remove any dust. I also reversed the hose on the shop vac and used it to blow the sawdust off since I was outside.

Next, you must coat the entire interior and exterior with 3-4 coats of unthickened epoxy. This makes the entire boat waterproof. It will also give you an idea of how beautiful the wood will look when varnished. This is why a lot of boat builders decide to leave their boats bright so the beauty of the wood shows through.

Mix up 1 cup batches of unthickened epoxy and pour out large puddles onto the surface. Taking a foam roller, distribute the epoxy in a smooth coat. Now take a wide foam brush and gently smooth (tip) the rolled out surface. This should remove any lap marks or bubbles. Move along to the next area, making sure to not touch the wet parts. Also, make sure no dust or bugs get on your finish or it'll mean even more sanding later.

Start with the exterior first. It'll be much easier to get good by practicing on the convex surfaces. The interior is more tricky because you want to prevent sags and pooling by only applying very thin coats.

Make sure to check with the manufacturer's directions during this step in case you have to deal with "blushing", a thin layer that can sometimes form on the surface of epoxy when it cures. This could cause your layers to not stick to each other. If your epoxy does blush, it's easy to just wipe the entire boat down with a rag soaked in acetone after each coat has cured. Some people sand between coats of epoxy. This is how you would make an extremely smooth/shiny finish, so if you want your boat to be museum quality, invest the effort. I'm planning on banging my boat around so opted out of an extreme, fancy, mirror finish.

I was originally going to paint the exterior of the hull, which would require priming and painting, but I'm leaving it bright for the time being. The good news is that you can always paint later if you change your mind, but if you paint it and change your mind, it's tough to go back. There aren't a lot of pics of this step, which took a couple of days because there wasn't much visible progress after that first coat went on. At this point, any surface that's not painted should be varnished using the same "roll and tip" method as the epoxy, with the optional sanding between coats. Note that epoxy has no UV resistance, so to keep your boat from getting sunburned, you must either paint or varnish every surface. Giving a boat a "museum quality" paint and/or varnish finish can literally take as long as building the boat.

Step 10: Making the Sail...

Another step you can do while other parts are curing is make the sail. This particular design uses a "lug" sail, a classic looking sail for small boats with wood masts. It increases the sail area (therefore the force generated by the wind) without it having to be as tall as a modern sailboat mast made of aluminum. There is a kit from an online sailmaking company that you can get for a reasonable price. The Dacron cloth panels are all cut out by a CNC machine, so they fit perfectly together. I used a regular, domestic sewing machine, not an industrial one. The only time I had trouble was when sewing through all 7 layers at the reinforcement patches. When I got to those parts, I had to manually push down on the foot of the sewing machine with a flat-bladed screwdriver (minus) to help push the needle through the Dacron. We jokingly call Philips head screwdrivers "plus".

The panels/parts all come labeled. The directions were a bit confusing because they suggest you make sub-assemblies after the fact to make wrangling the large sail easier but they mention it after you've already sewn the large panels together. It's important to understand what parts go together while the panels are still small and more manageable. For example, the batten pockets are tricky enough to build on a single panel, much less the finished sail. Building the sail was about as difficult for me as building the boat, but it was worth it.

The lug sail gets reinforcement patches on all four corners where you attach it to the spars (bend), and there's also a reefing point for when the wind starts to pick up (freshen). Modern sails have three corners (Marconi rig).

I opted for the less expensive white Dacron sail kit, but there's also a classic red (tanbark) colored kit that's $100 more expensive. Before I sewed a single stitch, I carefully traced every part of the sail kit onto painter's tarp poly film so I can always use the templates to build another sail, all I need to do is buy the tanbark cloth.

Step 11: Rigging Your Sailboat...

This seems to be the trickiest part for most people, probably because there are numerous ways it can be successfully rigged, depending on your experience, preferences or criteria. It's confusing because you have to know what the finished setup will look like in your mind while you're staring at a pile of ropes. I chose a setup that allows the most room in the cockpit for a full-sized adult, so the mainsheet is led forward of the skipper's position. This keeps the skipper's attention forward so they're looking where they're going. I have another boat where the mainsheet is behind the skipper and it takes some practice getting used to.

The lines I made up (rope becomes a line when you give it a job description) were the halyard (hauls the sail up), the mainsheet (adjusts the angle of the sail to the wind = trim) and a traveler bridle (where the mainsheet attaches to the boat). I got fancy and spliced all my ends, but you can just as well use a bowline knot.

I installed a cheek block at the top of the mast instead of the large diameter hole in the directions. I wanted the halyard to run as smoothly as possible when setting the sail. Then I installed a pair of cleats at the base of the mast, one for the halyard and one for the downhaul (cunningham). With both of these lines pulling in opposite directions, it locks the sail in place, flat, so it effectivley acts like a wing. The main halyard attaches to the gaff with a snap onto a padeye. This allows easy on/easy off when rigging at the boat ramp. I also used a small loop (parrel) around the mast and through the eye to keep the gaff located close to the mast. I looped the downhaul over the boom and down to the cleat to try to keep the gooseneck from twisting. Note, except for the blocks, just about all of the hardware used on rigging a boat this size can come in stainless steel or brass/bronze, depending on the look you're going for. If you plan on installing oarlocks to row the boat, this decision becomes even more important to the final look of the boat.

For the mainsheet, I made a short bridle between the handles on the transom with a small eye tied in the center. This allows a place for the snap on the end of the mainsheet to attach to. I could've just as easily allowed the snap to slide, which would give the bridle the function of a traveler, but would affect its pointing ability (sail upwind). The mainsheet is then run to a block on the end of the boom, then to another block in the middle of the boom. This leaves the main cockpit area unobstructed with running rigging. Make sure your mainsheet is long enough for your boom to swing forward of 90° to the boat, with enough to still come back to the cockpit for the skipper to control. A stop knot at the end of the mainsheet will keep the mainsheet from getting away from you and give you something to grip.

The rudder pivot hardware (gudgeons and pintles) must be installed perfectly vertical and on the exact centerline of the boat so that she will sail well. Drill and fill the necessary holes for this hardware. Be careful with the spacing. It's designed to be easily installed and uninstalled while underway.

With this particular rigging layout, when under sail, the skipper must constantly keep the mainsheet in hand, which is a good idea anyway for safety reasons (if you get hit by a gust of wind = puff, you won't get blown over = capsize). The tension on the mainsheet is easily manageable for any size skipper. On larger boats, the mainsheet is held by a fiddle block with a cam cleat, which is not necessary for a boat this size. With that being said, a possible future upgrade would be to install a block and a camcleat somewhere on the centerline of the boat so that more advanced sailors wouldn't need to constantly have to oppose the tension on the mainsheet. Of course the trade-off would be the hardware would probably be somewhere you might want to sit.

Another upgrade I figured out after actually taking her sailing would be to rig up a bungee/shock cord system that will hold the daggerboard both in an up and down position. With the current setup, the centerboard is held down by gravity and must be pulled out of the slot when beaching.

Step 12: Go SAILING!

Because I wanted to be able to go sailing by myself if needed, I made a dolly out of 2x4's and large pneumatic tires (which makes the dolly float). The dolly fits securely between the center and aft thwarts when driving out to the lake. The sides on the dolly lock against the skids on the bottom of the boat so it can't twist. Roll the sail up with the spars and wrap it with the main halyard. At the designed length, the mast doesn't fit inside the boat, but it seems a bit long, so some people have cut the mast down enough so that it fits inside the boat.

Out at the lake, unload the boat, slide the dolly underneath and you're ready to roll down to the ramp. At the launch, roll the boat out into the water until it floats off the dolly, toss the dolly off to the side out of everybody else's way. Drop the daggerboard into the slot and install the rudder assembly. Facing into the wind (important), stick the mast into the receiver hole (partner), tie off the downhaul (cunningham) and hoist the sail until the downhaul is tight, then cleat off the main halyard. Reave the mainsheet (run the line through the blocks) and you're ready to go sailing.

I've found that this boat sails very well. The lug sail makes it very easy to sail upwind (weather helm), it's a little more tender for a large adult, more so than a boat with a hard chine, like an El Toro/Optimist but it's a lot more graceful looking. The payload is very reasonable for a boat this size. My wife and son can easily (and safely) go sailing with me and I don't even need anyone's help to get it rigged and launched. All in all, this is one of the best projects I've every built. I hope you too can discover the joy of building your own boat and then take her sailing. Remember, in sailing, the wind is free, but nothing else is...

This is my very first Instructable after many years of referencing this excellent site to build numerous cool projects (you should see my next post). Anyway, I hope you enjoy it and please feel free to ask any questions you may have and I'll do my best to answer them. I'm planning on building a larger boat in the near future so stay tuned...

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