making sailboat cushions

Sewing Your Own Boat Cockpit Cushions

Introduction: Sewing Your Own Boat Cockpit Cushions

When we bought our sailboat, it had yellow on white (or white on yellow, depending on how you look at it) striped cockpit cushions. While the Mrs. loved the bright colors and cheerfulness it added to the cockpit area, the guy who had to constantly clean them (me) due to the high traffic area was less enthusiastic.

Since we were going to doing other canvas projects on the boat, we decided to tie them all in together with a matching color scheme. We decided that Forest Green would be a classic looking color that would stand up to the traffic and not look dingy after only a few days of use.

As with so many other things that I've had to learn to do, I searched on YouTube for a tutorial. Sailors know that Sailrite is a great company that produces excellent videos on how to do all kinds of great projects with their products, and I made the sail for our little wooden sailboat project from one of their kits. Their boat/box cushion video was the inspiration for my project and this Instructable.

I'm entering this Instructable into the "Sew Cool" contest, so please vote for me above! EDIT: Our boat was hit by two hurricanes in two weeks , Irma & Maria, in Puerto Rico. It looks as though our boat has survived, so hopefully our new cockpit cushions will really jazz up the boat. Wish us luck!

Step 1: Making Templates

Before I could figure out how much material to order, I had to make templates, to give me the measurements I needed to plug into Sailrite's fabric calculator.

This was the easiest part of the process. I just bought some thin plastic painter's tarp and taped it down into the area I needed to be covered by the cushion. I made notes like Port/Starboard as needed and which side the zipper was supposed to be installed so it's hidden on the final product.

Using a regular Sharpie marker, I roughly traced out the cushion shape. I sweetened up the lines later with a straight edge as needed. Then I cut out the template, staying well outside the lines. Using a 48" straight edge, I optimized the straight lines and carefully hand drew the rounded corners. If needed, I could have also traced circular objects around the house that had the right radius.

Two of my cushions ended up roughly 64" x 18" and the third was 60" x 18". I plugged that into Sailrite's fabric calculator as shown above, where I selected Cushions -> Box Cushions .

The calculator needed to know a few things to work. First were the dimensions of our cushion, but also how thick of foam I'd be using. I went with 2" thick. Also, the width of the fabric off the spool, which I got from the fabric's product description. In this case, it was 54" (60" is also common). For the matched set of cushions port and starboard, I put in quantity 2 since they're the same size and here are screen shots of what it spit out. It even showed me how to nest the pieces to optimize the use of my fabric!

Then I just added it to my shopping cart...

Step 2: Gathering Materials & Tools

I started out by watching the Sailrite video a couple of times to familiarize myself with the process. Then I watched it again, pausing where I needed to to generate a shopping list. I already had a Brother CS-6000i that I had purchased previously to make the sail for my son's boat, so that was already taken care of.

Here's the shopping list:

• Sunbrella 5446‑0000 Canvas Forest Green 54" Upholstery Fabric (Item # 5446-0000) x 6 yards
• Thread V‑69 Forest Green Polyester UV 4oz (1,350Yds) (Item # 106021) x 1
• Cushion Underlining Black 54" Fabric (Item # 772100) x 3 yards
• YKK® Finished Zipper #10 Black Single Pull (Vislon) (Item # 104830) x 3
• 48" metal rulers x 2
• Dremel VersaTip MultiTool Hot Knife
• Good scissors/shears
• 5/32" Polyurethane Marine Grade Piping/Welting Cord x 50 feet
• Electric Carving Knife
• Piping foot for your sewing machine
• 3M Super 77 Multipurpose Adhesive
• Foam of your choice (DryFast, closed-cell or polyurethane) x enough for your cushion(s)

and any various seam rippers, pins, tape measures, erasable fabric pencils, pencil sharpeners, scissors or piping foot you may need for the project. For a couple of hundred dollars, I was able to get all the materials I needed to make a thousand dollars' worth of cushions.

Now I just had to wait for the goodies to arrive...

Step 3: Cutting Top & Bottom Plates

Sailrite's video has a great table of contents that will take you to the beginning of each step. It was time to cut the plate(s) for the box cushion(s). I was faced with a dilemma here. If I made the top and bottom out of the green fabric, I could flip the cushions over, but that would trap moisture inside. If I made the tops out of the fabric and the bottoms out of mesh, they wouldn't be flippable, but they would breathe and dry out much easier/faster. I went with the mesh option. Regardless, the top and bottom plates are exactly the same size, but NOTE: they're not the same size as your template!

I needed to make my plates 1/4" larger in all directions than my template . That way, when I used a 3/8" seam allowance, my cover would fit nice and snug over the foam.

I traced the enlarged outline around my template on the top plate (fabric), cut it out, then I used that to create an exact copy for my bottom plate (mesh).

I oriented my cuts according to the diagram from the fabric calculator. I was also aware of keeping the right side out if my fabric had a good side and a bad side. The fabric I'm used didn't have a good side, so it was a little bit easier to manage.

For my port/starboard matched set of cushions, there was just a slight difference between the two templates, but since they were made out of clear plastic, I was able to lay one on top of the other and trace out the optimized average of the two. I then used that one template to make both cushions.

The UV resistant fabric is subject to fraying if you just cut it with scissors, so I needed to use a hot knife or soldering tip to cut/melt the fabric. To keep this from ruining my work surface, I placed one metal ruler beneath the cut line and used the second metal ruler on top as a straight edge. I made sure to place the top ruler inside the cut line, so that if the blade slips, it goes out into the spare fabric and not into my top plate area. I discovered that cutting about 1" per minute to make sure the cut is clean without doing any additional melting.

The bottom plate mesh material could be cut with scissors, so I just laid the top plate on the mesh material, traced it out with a fabric pencil and cut it out. The mesh material also does not have a good side. I now had matching top and bottom plates.

Step 4: Making Your Piping/Welting

To determine the width of fabric I needed for my piping, I multiplied the diameter of the piping I bought, times Pi, then added a generous seam allowance. My piping was 5/32", so 5/32" x 3.14 = 1/2" + 5/8 x 2 = 1-3/4" . I then "cut" (using my hot knife) really long strips at that width.

I measured the perimeter of the template. This is the minimum of piping I'd need to wrap around the top seam. I added about 10% for safety. For example, my cushion was about 150" around, so I made up about 165" of piping. Some cushion designs have piping around the top plate and bottom plate (usually cushions you can flip). Since my cushions weren't flippable, I only used piping on the top plate.

With the hot knife, I cut a 1-3/4" wide strip the length I calculated above (or the length of the edge of the fabric I purchased). I would most likely need to splice in a filler strip, so I will cover that later.

Now for some actual sewing in this sewing project... I installed the cording foot on my sewing machine according to the directions. I loaded a bobbin with my color-matched UV resistant thread and threaded my machine. I put my sewing machine on 2.5/5 stitch length. Then, I folded my strip in half, length-wise

If my strip of piping was longer than the perimeter of my cushion template, then I would've started in the center of the back of the cushion. If not, then I still wanted to start in the back, but probably off-center so the splices would still be on the back of the cushion.

I laid the "cut" edge of my piping parallel with the "cut" edge of my top plate, then I stitched them together, "cut" edges out. At this point, I was making a "good" side, so since I was making a matched set of cushions, I made sure they were mirror images of each other at this point. I didn't want to make two "starboard" cushions. Also, the direction I would be feeding the two pieces through the sewing machine might be a factor, so I pinned the pieces together to mock it up and see how it went.

I left about 3" of piping loose to use later for the splice and start stitching. Then, I just followed along the edge and around corners as needed. When I got to a corner, I left the needle buried in the fabric 1/2" from the edge, raised the foot and rotated the cloth as needed (some of my corners were more than 90°), then I lowered the foot and resumed sewing.

To splice the piping, I cut the end of the next piece flat (so the fabric and piping cord were even). Then I cut the original end of the piping so the cord was 2" short of the fabric. I folded the fabric over to form a "taco", then laid the next piece into the "taco" with the cord ends butted up against each other. I sewed across the folded "taco" and continued down the edge of the top plate.

Step 5: Making the Boxing & Zipper Plaque

Next, I needed to make the sides of the cushion (aka the boxing). Assuming this was a four-sided cushion, I'd need to create 3 strips of fabric that would be wide enough for the foam thickness I'd be using and the same length as the corresponding sides of the top plate sides. For the 4th side, which has the zipper installed, the additional stitching in the zipper would tend to shrink the length of the strip a bit along the direction of the stitching. To compensate for this, I measured the zipper side of the newly assembled top plate (the edge with the piping splice) and multiplied by 1.0125 to get the length. In my example, the back of the cushion measured 60.5 x 1.0125 = 61.25". That's how long of a strip I needed to make the zipper plaque.

The other three sides were 16.6", 17" and 55.5" long (my cushions weren't simple rectangles).

NOTE: The above is the technically correct way to do this. I actually made all of my boxing strips 4" too long. This allowed me to cut and stitch the corners perfectly, in situ , while I was stitching the boxing to the top plate.

Now let's talk about how wide to make the strips. For 2" foam, I made boxing for three sides of the cushion by cutting 2.5" strips (thickness of foam plus 1/4" on each side). With the seam allowances of 3/8", this would wrap the fabric tightly around the foam to eliminate wrinkles in the final product.

For the zipper plaque boxing, I measured the width of the zipper I selected (in my case 1.5"), then added 1/4" on each side, then added the width of the zipper. So in my case 2" + 1/2" + 1.5" = 4".

Now with my hot knife, I cut out three strips of boxing of 2.5" x top plate length and set them aside. Then I cut out my zipper plaque boxing at 4" x 61.25".

I folded my zipper plaque boxing in half down its length. I could have even ironed the folded fabric flat to make it behave better. I took my zipper width measurement (1.5") and divided it by 2 to get 0.75". I made a mark 0.75" from the folded side and made a tack stitch (set sewing machine stitch length to 5/5). MAKE SURE TO SET IT BACK TO 2.5/5 WHEN YOU'RE DONE!!!

If I had an edge/seam guide for my sewing machine, now would have been a good time to install it and set it to the 0.75", but the one I bought didn't end up working. No biggie. I made sure I didn't do any reversing/reinforcing of this tack stitch as I'd be removing it later. Now using sharp scissors, I cut along the folded edge, right down the center of the zipper plaque boxing strip.

I opened the flaps so I could just cut and fold them back flat onto the long sides. I could also iron this flat to help it behave. With my sewing machine back at 2.5/5 stitch length, I sewed the short flaps down flat onto the long sides, making sure to reverse/reinforce at the start of my stitches. I established where along the length of my zipper plaque I wanted the actual zipper to start (no need to have the zipper go all the way to the corners of the cushion), so a good 6" - 12" would work to stuff the foam in later. I sewed along the outside edge of the zipper facing to allow the zipper and flaps enough room for the zipper body to slide back and forth. I could cut the zipper to the appropriate length and feed the teeth back into the slider as needed to re-zip the zipper. I made sure to do some reversing/reinforcing when my stitch meets the zipper facing.

I cut off both ends of my zipper facing because they had large stops on them that would interfere with the sewing and also complicate which way the zipper body should be sewn in place. I could always pull the teeth apart and feed the teeth back into the body to fix the zipper later.

When I got ready to add the zipper to the plaque, if I had done my calculations correctly, the zipper should be almost exactly the saw width as the two flaps. This also meant that the center of the teeth should be down the center where my tack stitch was. As I started to stitch over the zipper facing, I needed to lift the foot and slide the zipper facing underneath, then lower the foot. I made sure to do some reversing/reinforcing at the start and end of the zipper. I tried to keep my stitches perfectly parallel along the entire length of the zipper as this will show on the outside of the seat cushion. I kept checking my folds to make sure I had not accidentally stitched across areas I didn't want. Ripping out stitches is a tedious and frustrating process.

I sewed all the way to the end of the zipper, then did some reversing, then continued sewing to the end of the plaque and did some more reversing.

Next I repeated the entire process by flipping the zipper plaque around and sewed down the other edge of the zipper in the same fashion.

Next I installed the zipper slider by pulling a couple of inches of the teeth apart and inserted them into the grooves on each side. I kept in mind I wanted the zipper pull toward the outside of the finished panel. I zipped the slider all the way down to the other end of the zipper, but made sure to stop short of unzipping the far end otherwise I'd have to reinstall the slider all over again.

Next I made two strips to reinforce the ends of the plaque where there's no zipper. My strips were the same width as the zipper (1.5"). I sewed those from the good side, over the previous stitching, to lock them in place.

I was afraid of sewing over the zipper teeth as stated in the instructions, but that has the side effect of allowing your zipper slide to slide out. I fixed that later. I didn't forget to sew across the zipper plaque too to reinforce the patch. I did this by leaving the needle buried, lifted the foot, rotated the plaque 90°, lowered the foot, then reversed and moved forward to give a lot of strength at the end of the zipper. I repeated this for the other end of the zipper plaque.

Now for the payoff! With the seam ripper, I cut all those tack stitches along the good/front side of the zipper (between the cross stitching) to liberate the zipper and the cover flaps. Afterwards, I removed all those pesky cut thread ends to see my nice zipper placket (then I cleaned up with a DustBuster). This was why I set the sewing machine to 5/5 stitch length.

NOTE: I was very careful, to NOT SLICE the flaps/placket or all my work on the zipper plaque boxing would be ruined and I'd have to spend an hour removing the zipper to make another one.

Before proceeding, I hand stitched over the ends of the zipper teeth on both ends to lock the slider in. This way I wouldn't damage the needle in the sewing machine.

Step 6: Sewing the Boxing to the Top Plate

Next, I stitched my zipper plaque and one side of the regular boxing together on one end, about 1/4" from the ends by placing the "good" sides together. I reversed back over it to make it nice and strong. NOTE: This immediately created interior/exterior sides of the boxing strips. I kept this orientation consistent. Please note that from here on out, the zipper plaque boxing will be treated the same as the other strips and should be about the same width after the previous step is complete, so will be referred to as just "boxing".

Technically, the instructions say to stitch all the boxing together to form the perimeter of the cushion. To reduce/eliminate the problems with the corners lining up several feet worth of stitching later, I tried stitching the boxing strips together only when I had stitched the previous boxing section to the top plate. This caused a bit more fiddling with awkward parts while I was cutting and stitching the corners because the top plate was already attached and in the way, but my corners landed exactly where I wanted them to.

I kept in mind that when stitching the boxing to the top plate, I could start from any given corner and go either direction. However, only one direction would probably fit easily through my sewing machine.

As I sewed the boxing to the top plate, I made sure a wrinkle from the top plate didn't accidentally get sucked into my stitches, requiring me to rip out a bunch of stitches.

So I could either sew all the boxing together, then sew that sub-assembly to the top plate or I could use my method where you sew on a boxing panel, then see where you land on the corner, cross-stitch another boxing panel to the end of the previous one in the correct location to land on the corner and proceed. If you choose to use the latter method, make sure to stop your stitches a few inches from the end to give yourself enough room to cross-stitch the corner.

If you have to sew the other direction around the top plate, it's a simple matter of turning the assembly over. For example, I had the top plate on the bottom and put the boxing on top to stitch one panel in the direction easy to fit in the sewing machine. Then from that original corner, I stitched the opposite direction, but I flipped the fabric so the boxing was on the bottom and the top plate was on top. It's easy with the cording foot to slide it along the piping so I only had to worry about the seam allowance on the boxing.

Some corners were pretty difficult to get through the sewing machine, so I just stopped short and hand-stitched the corners.

Step 7: Attaching the Bottom Plate

We're in the home stretch with the sewing part. This step was very similar to attaching the boxing to the top plate. I just had to make sure I:

• Started sewing the bottom plate in the correct orientation so that the good sides were together and in my case the cushion wasn't symmetrical, so I had to make sure the correct faces were sandwiched.
• Oriented the sub-assembly so that I could run it through the sewing machine easily.

Once again, I hand-stitched the corners as needed. I started with matching up my corner of choice and went to town.

Note, there was no piping to act as an edge guide for the sewing machine foot, so I had to keep my 3/8" seam allowance under control manually.

My cording foot was 3/8" wide, so that helped as an edge guide. I made sure the bobbin was fully loaded before sewing the bottom plate to the boxing.

Also, there were more layers for a wrinkle to get caught up in the seam so I had to be careful to manage the spare fabric.

A helpful hint may be to make one entire cushion first, then learn from your mistakes (instead of making them all at the same time). My second cushion turned out MUCH better.

If you can, make sure the end of your bottom plate/boxing seam ends up on a back corner, just in case.

Now for the BIG PAYOFF!!! I t urned the whole thing right-side-out!!! I had to unzip the zipper to do this.

Step 8: Stuff It! With Foam

I now had a very nice looking, if a little hollow-looking, cushion. I made sure I didn't accidentally stitch some areas that I didn't mean to, etc.

I was really tired of sewing at this point, which was good, since I was done. Next, I focused on the foam insert. There are a few different types of foam: DryFast, closed-cell and polyurethane. Everybody will tell you that the poly foam is just a sponge (and they're right), but it's also less than a third the price. Since I went with a mesh bottom plate, I decided to see if I could get away with using poly foam. If it doesn't work out, I can always just replace it with the good stuff and I'm not out much money and very little effort. Our boat is in the Caribbean, so it gets rained on every day, but it's also very warm, so I'm hoping they'll if not dry out, not mold like crazy.

Regardless of what kind of foam you go with, you'll still have to do the following steps based on the dimensions that the foam comes in. My foam came in 24" square pieces, so I used the spray adhesive on the edges to make up one large foam blank large enough for one cushion (sorry no pics, my hands were covered in adhesive).

Once that cured, I took my original template and added 1% to each length (but not less than 1/2"). For example, my long side was 60.5", so 1% of that is 60.5" x 0.01 = 0.6", which is larger than 0.5" so I was fine. I made sure I didn't add this to both sides as it really twists the cushion once you put the cover on (don't ask me how I know this).

I laid my template out on the foam blank and added the 0.6" to one side and the top of the template (so I didn't double up). Then using a Sharpie marker, I traced out the profile of my cushion.

Using my electric kitchen knife (bought specifically for this project), keeping the blades vertical and square to the face of the foam blank, I cut out the profile along the Sharpie marker outline. Once I was happy with the cutout and the edges were nice, smooth and square, I stuffed it all into my newly made cover. This was a bit tricky and probably the most stress my stitches will ever encounter. I've heard that if you spray the foam with silicone, it will slide in easier but I didn't bother with that. The first thing I did was grab the far corners and shove them into place, then finesse the rest of the foam to fit. I made sure to try and align the top corner of the foam to the piping for a nice clean look.

Once I was done wrestling with it for a few minutes, I got the edges and corners all lined up, I zipped her up and voila!

We're going to have to wait for Puerto Rico to recover from the hurricanes enough so I can fly down with the cushions and a bunch of other stuff we need to get our boat set back to rights. You can totally make your own boat cushions, whether its a trailer sailor or an ocean cruiser. Best of luck with your boat cushion project!

Midnight Maker out...

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Creative articles about sewing

Sewing a boat doorstop – embroidery project for sailors, sail away – sewing a boat cushion.

My passion is the Sea, boats and sailing and this is often reflected in my textile work. My father taught me to sail at a young age, I met my husband at a yacht club and in the 1980’s was one of very few women racing on large racing yachts at international level. With my husband we spent a year sailing halfway around the world before we had children. We am now lucky enough to live in a small fishing village on the sea and still have a boat which as I am disabled with multiple sclerosis my wheelchair can go aboard as well!!

Our two sons who are now 30 and 27 years old both decided at a very young age that they loved sailing as well and started racing with us in offshore races across the English Channel. Their bedrooms were full of boats so of course they had to have boat duvet covers and cushions which I could not buy so made with my trusty Bernina sewing machine. This was before embroidery machines and software!

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Andrew, our youngest son drew boats all the time, so I used his drawings as inspiration to create applique designs for duvet covers, and boat shaped cushions. This is an updated design using Bernina Embroidery Software that can be used as a cushion, a doorstop, or as an applique for a duvet cover.

However, if you do not have an embroidery machine just use the PDF pattern pieces and create the design on a sewing machine. You could use rick rack, some cord, or a decorative stitch along the top of the hull, felt circles for the portholes, small sew on anchors are often found in haberdashery. Let your imagination run wild!

If you have embroidery software you could personalise the cushion with a name instead of the numbers on the mainsail.

Embroidery files and instructions for a boat cushion

These are zip files for medium and large cushions in EXP and ART format:

Medium cushion embroidery files

Embroidery files for large cushion

PDF pattern pieces for medium boat cushion or doorstop

PDF pattern large cushion   

PDF instructions Sail Away

Finished size

I created 2 sizes, a medium size which fits into 145 x 240 hoop as every embroidery machine has this hoop, and a large size for the mega, jumbo, and maxi hoop

Medium. The finished size of this design is approximately 35cms high x 23cms wide.

Large.  The finished size is approximately 42 high x 28 wide. It is actually 120 percent of the size of the medium cushion.

The instructions show the medium sized design.

Requirements for medium cushion

For sewing a boat cushion, you will need these materials:

• Hull fabric 15 x 60 cms
• Mainsail 35 x 49 cms
• Jib 35 x 30 cms
• Small pieces of fabric for flag and portholes
• Mast 60 cms of 1.5cm wide ribbon, bias binding, or seam binding.
• Embroidery threads
• Temporary adhesive spray or fabric glue stick if you have them
• Scotch tape or selotape
• Polyester stuffing

Sewing a boat cushion – Instructions

• Print Pattern pieces at actual size. Measure the 4cm square to check size is correct and join pattern pieces for sails together using marks to help. 1 cm seam allowances are included.
• Fold each piece of fabric in half and cut out 2 hulls, 2 mainsails, and 2 jibs. Tip: If using cotton fabric spray well with spray starch before cutting the fabric. This makes cutting accurately easier and gives more support to the fabric when embroidering it.

• Download embroidery files to embroidery machine. Start with Hull embroidery.

• The portholes are embroidered first using an applique technique, (see my previous blogs if this is a new technique for you), then the anchor and finally the hull line. The rope motif line I designed myself.

• Remember to use the reversed hull embroidery design for the second hull piece.

Mainsails and Jibs

• To save stabiliser I embroidered both jibs and both mainsails in one hoop.
• Stitch the first alignment lines and then using the alignment marks on your fabric align the cut sail piece which is then held in place with a tack down line.

• When embroidery is finished fold the bottom piece of the sail back and hold in place with a piece of scotch tape or pin before embroidering the alignment marks for the second sail.

• Unpick all the tack down stitches on all embroidered pieces and tear away any excess stabiliser.

To complete the boat cushion

• Sew Jib and mainsail together and press seams open.

• Press this seam towards the bottom of the boat and topstitch.
• Sew front and back of boat together, leaving an opening at the bottom. Clip corners and curves, as necessary. Use a piece of scotch tape to fold in the flag over the mast to ensure it does not get sewn into the seam!
• Turn right side out and stuff. Hand sew opening shut.

Sewing a boat doorstop

If you wish to make a doorstop sew a small cotton bag, fill with sand, and place inside the boat towards the bottom.

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Sailing Eurybia

Two Humans and a Dog sail Mexico on a Sea Maid Ketch

Easy Salon Cushions for a Boat

September 24, 2018 4 Comments

Salon cushions are at the heart of most cruising boats. Although in warm climates you may spend most of your time in the cockpit the salon is there for you in cooler weather, at night, when underway, and the center of activity within the boat. But for that reason it can be intimidating to take on this central redecorating project. And it does take a fair amount of time. And you want it to last for years. Those are demanding criteria.

Maybe I can help.

Who is this article for?

I have just completed the salon cushions for my third boat. Along the way I learned a few things which is shorthand for I screwed up and figured out how to fix it! So maybe I can save you the screwing up part. I am much like many of you – I started by sewing from patterns and initially the thought of “starting from scratch” was scary. I’ve weeded through many different ways of making cushions but no one scheme was complete. For instance there are a ton of great videos out there but I found that they almost never talk about the kind of issues you will probably find on your sailboat – the “standard” irregularities such as non-rectangular forms. I will help you figure out how to deal with some of these irregularities.

And most self-help articles start with a particular design – how do you decide which type of design? If you are replacing the original cushions on your boat they may exhibit a very sophisticated design requiring shaped foams, buttons, pleating and the like. If you decide you have to have the same level of design, and yet this is your first project, you probably will be happier hiring out the design, or at least you don’t need my less-than-professional help. But after much hand-wringing I decided that my boat needed comfortable, well-made, easy-to-maintain, attractive cushions but that I could go with a modern stream-lined look . Call it Danish modern and it sounds fancier. Here are my decisions on some of the design “features” on my previous boats:

• No Piping. I love piping but it’s time consuming and, particularly for bias-cut takes a lot of material. They also can be bumpy to sleep on. I use piping on my cockpit cushions which are large slabs, (and the piping helps the cushions stay put) but for the salon I needed smaller cushions to make it easier to get into the bins below. Anyone sleeping on these cushions will be spread across several cushions so I’ve skipped the piping. If you don’t have bins below to worry about and so will have the piping around the extreme edges only, go see my article on traditional box cushions with piping . Otherwise stick with me and I’ll show you a faster, easier way.
• No Buttons. Buttons and gathers are obstacles to removable covers. Boats get wet and dirty. Sometimes really really wet. There’s nothing nicer at the end of a nasty wet storm or a tough crossing to get to a laundry machine and wash all those covers. Cutting and resewing the buttons? Not likely to happen on my boat. And yes there are ways to make the buttons easier to deal with, but either way they’re no fun to sleep on. Salons should handle sleeping guests and besides in our boat it’s our sea-berth while crossing oceans. No buttons for me.
• No Shaped foam. Good foam, which is the only kind that lasts, is expensive. I have found some very reasonable prices online but not for foam with neck or knee rolls. If you have a great shop near you that will shape the foam to these shapes, and you really want them, go for it, I’m not your guide on this. However if you just have trapezoids (don’t we all), quarter circles, or curved backs, I can help you with these. They are made from flat foam but can be assembled easily enough.
• Secured backs. I have not found good sources on securing the cushion backs to the bulkheads. Ok, I realize that normal people’s couches and window seats don’t go sailing around at exciting heel angles, but as sailors ours do, and we need to secure them. I’ll show you an easy snap method that you’ll be able to live with. Do your future self a favor and don’t use stick-on velcro, even the really robust kind. It makes a gluey mess eventually. Snaps are cleaner.

To look professional cushions have to fully fill the space they’re in, be plump and full with minimal wrinkles in the material, and be made of excellent materials. The first two criteria I help you with by providing the relative sizes of space, foam, and cover. The third criteria, top notch materials you will provide and I give you some hints on buying good quality foam. So if you want simple if irregular modern cushions without rolls or buttons and want to spend hours not days on each cushion, let me see if I can help.

Getting started and Ordering Foam

The basic design of these cushions is from SailRite. I’m sure if you’re a sailing sewist you know about Sailrite.com. Their “ Easy Box Cushion ” method is the basic idea for the cushions I made – and though they don’t cover irregular cushions it’s a great idea to view this video first so you can see exactly what I’m doing. This is a great video.

Making a Pattern

In the video they are making rectangular cushions so no pattern is required. However if you have any irregularities I encourage you to make patterns for each cushion. SailRite’s patterning material is excellent, but really a roll of brown paper for shipping or crafts is fine. Use one sheet for each area, even if it will end up as multiple cushions. For my L-shaped salon I used two patterns, one for the long run along the hull and a second for the shorter L along the bulkhead. I was very careful to mark where the junction between the cushion runs was.

Ordering Foam

For a fore peak or other extreme shapes you could order the correct shape from a company such as Foam Online or Foam Factory . But most salons are close to rectangular so if you have an electric carving knife you can order rectangular foam, saving a bit of cash, and make the minor edits yourself. On my boat the salon L makes a perfect quarter circle as it turns the corner so this was one irregular cushion that I ordered separately. Everything else was done with rectangles.

• Foam generally has to be ordered in one inch increments, so whatever sizes you determine will be ordered up to the nearest inch.
• Foam will be ordered 1/4″ larger than the pattern in every direction so that it makes a tight fit in the cover.
• Determine the foam thickness from your old cushions, measuring the side panels seam-to-seam and adding a 1/4″ or so. The foam may have squashed a bit so don’t measure it, measure the old cover. I decided that my original 5″ foam seat cushions were not tall enough for the table, so I decided 6″ seats would be more comfortable. This obviously affected the height of the back cushions, so I shortened them to account for that. My back cushions were 3″ thick and I stayed with that.
• Buy the best, longest-lived foam you can – they are more expensive but will retain their shape much longer. Salon seats are used heavily if you live-aboard. Weekend sailors could save money by buying less dense foam. I ordered 16-year HD36 foam for my cushions (see types of foam ) and am very happy with them. The seats are very cushy but don’t bottom out at 6″ and the backs, only 3″, feel even cushier, but still supportive.
• Curves? My salon has a 90 degree turn that is done with a back cushion in a curve, and the seat cushion which is a quarter circle. The quarter circle seat can be ordered normally (a 22×22 quarter circle should be 22.25 x 22.25, or just cheat and order 22×22 and it will be good enough rather than trying to cut 3/4″ off the next largest size). The back however has to be built up of thinner layers so that you don’t end up with buckling foam in front. I built mine up with three 1 inch thick sheets and glued them one by one into the formed shape. The front-most sheet will have the most cut off, but I ordered them all the same rather than trying to guestimate this.

Measure the pattern and add 1/4″ to each side (1/2″ to each dimension), ignoring any cutouts you will do later (such as creating a trapezoid from a nominally rectangular cushion. In the image below the pattern was nominally 36″ x 18″, the foam needs to be 36.5″ x 18.5″, so I ordered 37 “x 19”.

Once the foam is delivered, cut it to the pattern size plus 1/2″ (36.5″ x 22.5″ in the example above) before laying out the bottom and top plates. You will use the foam as your pattern, saving a lot of time measuring and saving yourself measuring errors. Ok, I know you don’t make measuring errors but I do! Also mark the foam so you don’t forget the orientation:

• Mark the top of the cushion (the size you will sit on or lean against) with a clear FRONT indication so you don’t get it backwards. The top plate will cover the Front part of the cushion.
• Also mark the TOP of the cushion which will be the uppermost part of the back cushion and the rear-most part of the seat cushion. This will help in laying out the pieces if you have patterns or nap in your material.

Ordering the material and accessories

You will need the following items (some are optional) to complete this job:

• The foam from above. I have used FoamOnline and Foam Factory .
• A length of continuous zipper (I used #5 YKK) for each cushion, a few inches longer than the widest point of the cushions. Also remember to order one zipper pull for each zipper you plan to make.
• Dacron wrapping for each cushion (needs to cover the foam on all sides). I bought mine from Foam Online at about $5/yd but Sailrite also sells it as Polyester Batting for not much more. You can get cushions with the batting already applied, but since this easy method of making cushions involves using the foam as a pattern for some steps you will need a bare cushion at first.
• Silk wrapping (optional). This is nice stuff that provides some moisture protection to your cushion without making it crinkly feeling. It’s noiseless. If you want to use a shop vac to shrink the cushion for easier insertion silk wrapping makes that possible.
• Webbing (optional) and snaps (optional) for attaching snaps if you wish to hang the cushion backs so they don’t have to be moved when you need to get to bins under the seat cushions. It also keeps them in place while heeling. Either 1″ or 1.5″ webbing works fine and you’ll need a piece the length of each cushion you plan to hang. For the snaps I prefer the snaprite system and you’ll need a complete set of whichever snaps you prefer for every 6 to 8″ of each cushion you want to hang. The base of the snap will screw into the material behind your cushions and the button and socket will fasten to the webbing tape before you sew it on to the back of the cushion.
• Cushion underlining for the back of the cushion.
• The upholstery material for the fronts and sides of the cushions. Use the Sailrite Fabric Calculator to figure out what you need.
• Foam spray glue for gluing foam together (if required) and for applying the batting to the foam.
• Electric knife (optional) for trimming foam.

Sewing it together

Bottom plate.

This pattern requires that the bottom plate be made of cushion underlining or other non-shredding material. This material, at $7 a 54″ wide yard, is most likely less expensive than your upholstery, so will save you some money and make the zipper process MUCH faster. This will be the easiest zipper you’ve ever done! The bottom plate will be cut to the actual size of the pattern – slightly smaller than the foam – so just use the patterns to figure out what you need to order.

Cutting the material is quite simple and error free. Place the cushion down on the underlining with the top of the cushion facing up (you did mark the cushion with a FRONT?). Mark all around the cushion. Remove the cushion and mark 1/4″ inside each of the four sides. Cut on the inner line and mark TOP on the appropriate part of the plate so you’ll know that this is the inside of the bottom plate and where it goes.

Now cut a piece of continuous zipper slightly longer than the length of the longest side of the bottom plate. Make it a few inches longer so that you can trim it to size later. Making sure you are on the inside of the bottom plate  and use seamstick to stick down the zipper. Sew around most of three sides (I always hand turn the wheel as I cross the zipper teeth – saves needles), remembering to stop before you sew that fourth side! Now insert the zipper slide making sure the pull tab is facing down to the material, not up to the zipper tape. Move the tab up past your needle position and finish sewing the fourth side.

Turn the bottom plate over and cut right down the middle of the zipper strip revealing the zipper and zipper pull.

For the cushion backs or any cushion that you want held in place, create a snap strip with webbing and snaps. I like to use the Snap Rite system from SailRite – the rivet tools requires little force and no hammering and is quick and easy. Here are the tools

First make the snap strap. Cut a piece of webbing as long as the longest edge of your cushion. The first and last snaps should be placed about 1.5″ inside the outer edge of the bottom plate. Between these two snaps place snaps every 6 to 8 inches at even intervals (this makes it easier to accurately place the snap base which will be screwed into your bulkheads). The picture above shows the first snap being placed into the webbing.

Next secure the strap to the back of the cushion. Make sure the good, finished side of the bottom plate is showing. You should see the zipper teeth but not the tape where it is sewed on. Place the webbing strip down on the material MAKING SURE THE SNAP BASE IS SHOWING. You do not want to see the snap cap, it needs to be facing the bottom plate material. Sew the end of the snap tape and between each two snaps, leaving room for about three fingers to slide behind the snap for fastening.

The top plate and the edges will be cut in one piece, then you will sew the four corners of the top plate, then attach the bottom plate. Then you’re done!

Lay the roll of material out with the finish side down and the nap (if any) pointing in a known direction. Place the foam face down (so you can’t see the FRONT marking) and with the TOP in the correct position for nap (if any) or pattern (if any). Nap should run from the back of the seat cushion forward or from the top of the back cushion down. Make sure you have enough material to cover the thickness of the cushion on all sides. Mark all around the foam. This is the top plate, exactly the size of the foam, but we still need to add the sides before cutting.

Take the thickness of the foam and subtract 1/4″; e.g. a three inch thick foam will have sides of 2 3/4″; a 6″ foam cushion will have 5 3/4″ sides. Measure out this size all around the edge you marked in the step above. You now have two rectangles drawn on the cloth. Cut out the corners to make a cross-shaped piece. If some of the sides aren’t at 90 degree angles, just make sure they are perpendicular to the side. Another way to think of this is to raise up the foam on its end and draw around it; then repeat for the other three sides. It should end up like this:

Cut out the material in the cross shape.

Sew the four corners together, being sure to reverse at beginning and end of the (very short) seam. Right sides together!

Sew the four sides to the bottom plate (right sides together). Marking the center of each side and seam-sticking the edges together before you sew will keep everything as precise as possible. Use 1/4″ seam stick only as the seam allowance is only 3/8″. If the corners are hard to sew around you can just sew each side together, getting as close to the corners as possible.

Your top and bottom plates are done! If you don’t have any curved areas you can jump ahead to Assembly . But if your salon curves around the L, read on.

Variation for curved cushions

If your salon curves around the corner rather than taking a square turn, you will need to deal with two different curve issues as shown below:

Curved Back Cushion

If you have a curved back cushion where your L or  U shaped settee turns the corner you’ll need to make a few adjustments to this method. First you need to pre-curve the foam. One inch thick layers will do this much better than thicker layers. Cut the first layer to the size of the pattern plus 1/4″ each edge. I sewed the corner one last so that I had finished the other backs and had them in place when I started the final one. I squooshed the first layer in against the curve of the settee. Then I laid the next layer into that curve and marked the size. After removing and cutting it to size (each layer turns out slightly smaller) I spray-glued both pieces and gently pressed the second layer in against the first. I then repeated this for the third layer (and however many you need). The edges of these three glued pieces will be a little messy but nothing that the batting won’t hide.

The top and bottom edges will be made separately from the top plate because they are cut in a curve. Lay the now curved foam onto the wrong side of the cushion material and make a pattern, leaving extra on the ends to attach to the side plates. Make the thickness equal the foam thickness – 1/4″ + 3/8″ seam allowance. So my 3″ cushion required top and bottom curved plates at 3 1/8″ thick. Only add one seam allowance to account for sewing the top plate to this side plate. The curved top and bottom plate will hold the cushion in a good shape without being twisted themselves.

Make the top plate in three pieces so it can more easily take up the slack of the curved inner side. Measure the front face and write down the dimensions. Divide the horizontal distance into three pieces. Add 3/8″ seam allowance to top and bottom of each piece, and to the inner edges of each piece as shown in the image below. Then add standard edge pieces to the outer edge of each of the two edge slices as shown below. Once you have the diagram measured completely, transfer the diagrams to the wrong side of your material, cut the three pieces out and sew together into the top plate.

After the front face is sewn together,  sew the curved top and bottom edge-pieces on, sew the four corners together, then sew the top and bottom plate together as usual.

Variation for circular seat cushions (flat but shaped like part of a circle)

The seat cushion under the curved back cushion described above is a quarter circle shape. Two edges are straight and the third edge is a quarter circle. The top and bottom plates are quarter circles as well. This cushion cover needs to be made in three pieces: the bottom plate, the top plate with two size edges, and the third edge for the curved part. Measure the curved edge and add 6/8″ for the two seam allowances on either end. The width of this rectangle of material will be the foam thickness – 1/4″ + 3/8″ seam allowance. So my 3″ cushion required top and bottom curved plates at 3 1/8″ thick. Only add one seam allowance to account for sewing the top plate to this side plate. Unlike the curved back cushion this plate can be made completely rectangular, but will be sewed to a curved top and bottom plate.

Other than these details this pillow is made the same as the others. I suggest that the zipper extend from corner to corner just under the curved edge – this will be the largest edge you can get.

Prepare the cushion by gluing on the padding. I like to start at the back of the cushion, spray the bottom of the cushion with spray glue, wrap the padding around to the front, and now spray the top of the cushion and gently stretch the padding over it. Leave a little extra to go around the back of the cushion. This ensures that the padding in the front will be nice and smooth and the back won’t matter so much. Make sure there is also a little extra to drape over the edges. Let the foam sit for a couple of minutes so the glue can dry.

Turn the completed cover right-side out and open the back zipper fully. Make sure you know where the top and front of the cushion is with respect to the cover. Grab one corner of the cushion and force it into the cover. Repeat with each corner. Once the four corners are in (this is tough with a 6″ cushion but can be done – be firm!!) then you can smooth and straighten the edges and the padding which might ride up around the edges. Zip and you’re done!

Alternate method. If you bought the silk cushion lining you can cut an overlarge piece (don’t skimp – the overlap is what allows a vacuum to form), drape it over the cushion, insert the vacuum mouth into the edge, secure the lining around the vacuum tube, and turn it on. Gently but firmly press the air out of the cushion to assist the vacuum while keep the tube pressed firmly against the cushion. Then with your third hand insert the cushion into the unzipped cover. Yes, another person is useful. Note that I got some assistance from this method but either my foam was too rigid or my shop vac (on the boat) too weak to really do a good job. Watch the SailRite video at the top of this post to review how to do that.

The cushions are now done and all that is left is to screw snap bases into the surface behind the seat backs and mount the cushion backs.

I hope these instructions helped you make sturdy, beautiful simple cushions for your boat. Please let me know where you might have needed more help or fewer words. May your sewing by relaxed and straight.

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Wow, wish I had something to make cushions for… maybe some day. Your instructions were easy to understand and full of great tips. This really needs to be submitted to a Sailing Magazine. Pretty color too. Good to find a new blog post, I check almost every day.

So great to hear from you! Glad you enjoyed it. If you do some I’d love to see them!

Hello. Thank you so much for making this blog! May I ask if the dimensions adders (1/4″) still hold if one is applying your recommended dacron and silk wrappings?

Yes! Don’t add extra for the dacron, it’s just to help plump out the pillow.

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The Almighty Boat Cushion: A guide to boat cushion fabrication, foam, fabric, fit & style!

You might consider your boat cushions last when it comes to the many things that need attention on a boat. Let’s be honest, comfortable, stylish, well-fitted interior boat cushions are arguably one of the more important aspects of your boat for many reasons.

Aside from giving your boat a clean and attractive aesthetic, having high quality boat seating provides comfort, style and maximum functionality no matter what type of vessel you have. Whether you are buying a boat for the first time or you have owned a boat for many years, having beautiful, comfortable and high functioning seating areas inside and outside your boat adds to your enjoyment. If you plan to go cruising for long periods or just take guests for an evening boat ride, proper boat seating will make everyone’s experience more pleasurable.

Maybe you have a beloved sailboat that came with outdated, smelly ‘70s style cushions that no longer suit your lifestyle. Or possibly you have a sleek, powerboat that has worn fabric and foam from many years of use. Or perhaps you have always wanted a custom lounge cushion on the bow of your boat. Whether you want a full set of new cushions from scratch, or just an update to your existing cushions, here is what you need to know before you start.

Boat Cushion Fabrication, Foam, Fabric, Fit & Style!

If you are replacing or recovering your cushions for the first time, it’s important to understand what options are available to you so you can enjoy your new cushions for years. In order to help sort out all the details, we have provided a comprehensive breakdown of what to consider when choosing marine cushions. We will show you why having an experienced professional fabricate your custom cushions is the best choice, and why it’s good to steer clear of generic store bought cushions.

5 Basic Parts of a Boat Cushion:

A high quality, long lasting cushion should have the following as part of a basic cushion construction:

A High Quality Zipper – This is a must with any type of boat cushion to remove and wash covers. As we all know, boats can be wet, dirty, salty and stinky so having a durable YKK zipper on all cushions for easy removal is of the utmost importance. These plastic zippers won’t corrode like a metal zipper and they are not only durable but also more flexible, making it easier to remove the cover.

Finished Interior Seams – All interior seams should be over-locked or burned so threads don’t unravel when washed. This also makes the process of removing covers and re-stuffing much easier.

Teflon Thread – Having your cushions constructed with Teflon thread will ensure they last. Cushions can get tugged, stretched or lugged around a boat so using utterly indestructible Teflon thread with 100% PTFE fiber provides durability for the heavy use that boat cushions undergo and is UV resistant.

Durable Fabric – see fabric section below.

Foam Inserts – Obviously, this is also an essential part of the construction of a cushion but it merits its own section to help you discover all the options available. A major consideration when fabricating cushions is whether to start from scratch or re-cover existing foam. Both can be great options. Here are some tips if you are not sure.

New Cushion Foam vs. Recover Existing Cushion Foam

New Foam – If your cushions are more than 10-15 years old, it is often worth the investment to get new foam and start fresh. If you are not sure, take a cushion out of its cover and let it air out. If the foam smells musty, has mold or is misshapen and degraded, it’s time to consider complete new cushions. You can always bring your cushion to our shop and we can help assess it with you.

Recover Existing Foam – If the foam is slightly worn but otherwise intact and has its original shape, we say keep it as long as it smells ok to you. We can steam foam to bring back the original shape and wrap it with new batting to make it look as good as new. This option is great if you don’t have the budget for new foam and it will refresh your seating and extend its useful life.

Types of Foam for Boat Cushions

Open Celled Foam – This is the most common type of foam. It comes in varying densities and can be shaped or cut to any size desired. Often boat cushions need bevels or special cut outs to fit perfectly. We have the ability to create any shape you need. Open cell foam comes in any thickness desired and is a great choice for indoor or outdoor applications. It can be very soft or extremely firm depending on the density you choose.*

Closed Cell Foam – This foam is very dense and firm foam that floats. It is best for bow or cockpit cushions. It will not absorb water like open-cell foam and can be used for flotation as a bonus.

Dry Foam – Porous foam that does not absorb water. It is typically one density. Commonly used if your cushions will be exposed to excessive amounts of water or left outdoors.

How to Choose Foam Density

By far the most common type of foam to use for boat cushions is open-celled foam. It offers densities from very soft to extra firm, depending on your preference for sitting, sleeping or even stepping. Outdoor cockpit cushions lend themselves to firmer foam, as often boat owners need to step on them to access various parts of the boat.

But don’t worry, if you can’t choose one density, combine two. If you like a firm base but a little softer top, we can always combine different densities of foam to create the perfect fit and feel. For boat sleeping areas, you can also choose a high quality foam mattress or memory foam pad and have them cut to shape.

Fabric Choices for Marine Cushions

It is easy to be overwhelmed by all the different types of fabrics you can use for boat cushions. We are experts and can guide you through choosing the best option for your needs.

If you are looking to fabricate cockpit cushions, interior salon cushions, helm seats, v-berth cushions or accent pillows, Sunbrella is a widely popular fabric for all of these. It comes in Marine or Upholstery . Other options include high quality marine vinyl , Phifertex mesh, Ultrasuede, or even leather.

Choosing the best type of fabric – Marine Sunbrella is a wonderful option for outdoor or indoor use and holds up to wear and tear even with constant exposure to the elements. It comes in a large array of colors and textures to satisfy most style needs. If you are looking for more vibrant designs or unique patterns, the Upholstery Sunbrella has a gorgeous selection to choose from. We typically recommend Marine Sunbrella for most boat cushions but the upholstery Sunbrella is an option for your boat interior if you want more pattern and color options.

In addition to popular Sunbrella, marine cushions can be made of high quality marine vinyl, Phifertex mesh, faux leather and/or Ultrasuede. All of these can be used for most boat applications but the choice of fabric can depend on the location of the cushions on the boat as well as how you plan to care for the cushions.

Cushion Fabrication Styles

Whether you are a seasoned design expert or a complete cushion novice, this will help you understand all the basic fabrication style options available for any cushions.

Box and Plate – This cushion has a vertical sidewall that is the same height as the thickness of the cushion. They are made by assembling the top and bottom section of the fabric to the sidewall fabric to form a box. The zipper is in the sidewall.

Cascade/Waterfall – This cushion has the fabric cascades over the front of the cushion with two side panels and back zipper. This is the best style for stripes or patterns because the pattern will not be interrupted.

Butterfly/Knife Edged Corner – This style has two pieces of fabric sewn with a center side seam and corners pleated to create boxing. These cushions do not have a sidewall like the boxed edged and are most common for smaller thicknesses of one or two inches.

Single/Double Welted (or piped) – Has one or both sides piped. It can be in contrasting color. The piping can provide some stability, but it is mainly for style and decor.

Upholstered Cushions – A cushion stapled to a backer board and often glued or nailed to furniture or the structure of the boat. Built in boat upholstery can be complex. We are happy to assess your upholstery and determine the best solution for your boat.

Throw Pillow – A small decorative pillow with poly or down fill and a zipper for easy removal. Throw pillows are great for style accents on a boat.

Bolster – A long, typically cylindrical, cushion or pillow that is usually firm for support.

Measuring and Templating for Boat Cushions

In almost all cases, it is best to have our expert staff template and measure your project. This ensures that you get the best fit and will accommodate all possible cutouts, odd shapes or hardware placement. In some cases, if foam is in good shape, it can be copied or recovered but we always prefer to visit your boat so all the details can be taken into account.

Fit, Function and Style Extras for Boat Cushions

Let’s go beyond the basics. Presumably you have style ideas and want no-fuss solutions, however, complicating conditions may exist when making cushions for a boat. All of the following should be considered when designing and fabricating your cushions.

Hardware / Attachments – Cushion hardware is very important. Depending on how you use your boat, you may need attachments to keep your cushions from shifting or moving. Snap pockets or snap tabs allow you to easily attach a custom cushion for a secure fit. Although snaps tend to be a reliable and popular option for interior or exterior boat cushion, we can also use Velcro, Keder track, common sense fasteners or other marine hardware depending on the application. Hardware can corrode so it is best to keep it clean and free of dirt and debris.

Foam Cut Outs / Bevels / Odd Shapes – No boat is straight, symmetrical or square. Templating a boat for new cushions is critical. It allows your cushions to fit and function properly around the nooks and crannies of your salon, v-berth or cockpit. Precise cutting, shaping or beveling of the foam create cushions that custom fit your boat. Boats can also be in need of special wedges, knee rolls or even be upholstered to a backer board that attaches to your boat.

Breathable Underlining – Boats are inherently moist. To combat moisture and mold, have your cushions fabricated with a mesh underlining that helps your cushion breathe. This is especially important for cushions on your boat deck because they are more likely to be exposed to moisture. Because most boat cushions are not reversible, a zipper can be sewn on the mesh bottom for easier removal of the cover.

Batting Wrap on Foam – Batting is often applied over foam to prevent slippage and provide a smooth, soft appearance. The thickness (loft) of batting can range from very thin up to an inch thick. Batting is a great option for any interior cushions like V berth or salon seating to plump up your cushions and add softness . It is not often recommended for cockpit or bow cushions as it can retain moisture if it gets wet.

Hinging – Boats have lots of odd storage areas that can be hard to access. You can create a hinge on any cushion. It can be a mock hinge with velcro for full separation or a static hinge that is sewn into the cushion. Hinging can provide flexibility with your seating arrangement or allow for access to hard to reach areas under or behind a cushion.

Piping / Welting – Piping, also known as welting, is a great way to add a little contrast or pizazz to your cushion. It does not serve any major function beyond style and personal choice. .

Buttons / Tufting – Adding buttons or tufting is a personal style choice and works best for fancy applications. It is often not the best choice for a heavily used cushion.

Striped or Patterned Fabric – Striped or patterned fabric can provide a beautiful look and unique feel to your boat.

Boat Backrests – Cockpit backrests can be recovered just like seat cushions, or we can create new ones that are customized to your needs. Backrests are often a wedge, soft fill or just simple throw pillows.

Why Choose The Canvas Works to Make Your Boat Cushions?

High quality cushions provide comfort, style, and durability. We know the ins and outs of designing, fabricating and installing boat cushions. Whether you have a spacious yacht, compact sailboat or recreational canoe, we are dedicated to providing you with the best options for your vessel. Let us know what you’re looking for.

We can fabricate all of the following for your marine vessel:

• Cockpit and Deck Cushions
• Interior Boat Salon and Dining Seating
• Bow Cushions
• V Berth sleeping cushions
• Bolsters and Throw Pillows
• Boat Backrest Cushions
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Comfortable marine seating means a better on-the-water experience whether you’re fishing, participating in water sports or just unwinding. Our custom cushions for boats offer excellent value on a variety of vessels. By using marine-grade materials and more than half a century of industry experience, we manufacture cushions that provide the right amount of support while fitting your budget. Shop at FoamOrder.com for boat bow cushions, below-deck cushions, seat backs and more that help you enjoy every outing.

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Measure your cushions, select your foam, select a fabric, we’ll do the rest.

Need help with design or measuring? Get Help from our Customer Service experts!

Types of Replacement Boat Seat Cushions

We offer many options to replace or upgrade your sailboat cushions, motorboat cushions and other types of boat cushions. Whether your replacement boat cushions are for the deck or cabin of your boat, choose from our Flotex closed-cell marine seating foam , drainable outdoor foam, economical foam, memory foam or all-natural latex foam. Most foams are available in several densities so you can get a soft cushion, firm cushion or whatever is best for the specific cushion. Then combine them with a beautiful new fabric such as Sunbrella® or waterproof marine vinyl — or send us your own material to use for your boat seat covers.

Affordable Boat Cushions

It’s easy to order marine foam cushions at FoamOrder.com. To get started, select the shape of your cushion, enter the dimensions needed and then select what type of boat cushion foam you need. The most common foam for boat cushions is dry-fast outdoor foam, which is great because it doesn’t absorb water, drains immediately and should last for 10–15 years under normal use. Flotex is a firm yet comfortable closed-cell certified flotation foam. Our EverFlex™ and organic latex boat foam for seats below deck are also high-quality options rated for 15 years. When you reach the screen to select your foam quality and firmness, you can explore more about each foam.

If you have questions or need help, please contact our customer service professionals to help you get the ultimate cushion solution for your boat.

Frequently Asked Boat Cushion Questions

Can i order a hinged boat cushion.

You sure can! At FoamOrder.com, we’ve been helping boat owners create and replace custom cushions for over 20 years. Just let us know how you’d like your hinge and we’ll make sure we get it right. Boat cushions with a hinge make it easy to access storage under V-berths. Contact our customer service team for help if needed.

Simple Fabric Hinge

Quilted Top Hinge

How do I make a custom pattern for my boat cushions?

Most boat cushions will match one of the shapes above and will not require a pattern. However, if your boat requires cushions in a non-standard shape, here are the steps to creating a pattern:

To begin, take a minute and review how your existing boat cushions look. This is your chance to correct any gaps and make improvements. Next, using paper, plastic or fabric to make the pattern, simply cut your pattern to the exact size desired. The more precise the pattern you provide, the more exact-fitting boat cushion we will be able to make. Please mark on your pattern “This side up” and which side(s) should be used for zipper placement and stripe direction. Keep in mind that most large V-berths work best with a zipper wrapping around three sides. Always mark the pattern for zipper placement on the hull side. Finally, if your boat cushions require a bevel, it works best if you provide a pattern for both the top and the bottom of the cushion. You also can write the different sizes of the bevel in each area on the pattern.

For a price quote, use the Pattern Shapes option and enter the largest dimensions (thickness, length and width) from your old boat cushions. As always, our experts in customer service are standing by to answer any questions or help you through the ordering process.

Do you make boat cockpit cushions?

We have over 20 years of experience making custom cockpit cushions for any boat. Just give us the dimensions of your boat cockpit cushions and we’ll cut them to your exact specifications. You can look them up online or in your boat’s manual or trace a pattern for us. Boat cockpit cushions can be made from three types of foam: traditional polyurethane indoor foam, dry-fast (reticulated) outdoor foam or Flotex closed-cell flotation foam. By clicking a shape above and then entering the dimensions, you’ll receive an instant quote.

Can you make boat cushions with beveled edges?

We can add a bevel to your boat cushions to match the contour of your boat. Simply enter the dimensions of the top (larger dimensions) after choosing one of the shapes above and add a comment in the shopping cart specifying the bevel instructions. If your beveled boat cushions are a bit more complicated and require a pattern, read the beveled pattern procedures in the “How do I make a custom pattern...” FAQ above.

Boat Cushion and Mattress Maintenance

Boat interiors are frequently moist. This moisture gets trapped between your cushions or mattress and the boards below. To help avoid problems with mold or mildew, air your mattresses or cushions outside in the sun every couple of days but don’t remove the covers. When you are not using your boat, store your mattresses or cushions vertically in the aisle. For added protection, you can sprinkle anti-fungal powder (found in most drug stores) on the platforms below your mattress or cushions, as well as on the bottom side of the cushions.

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Home > Furniture > Living Room Furniture > How To Make Boat Cushions

How To Make Boat Cushions

Modified: March 16, 2024

Written by: Amelia Brooks

Discover the perfect boat cushions for your living room furniture. Learn how to make them with our easy step-by-step guide. Enhance your comfort and style aboard your boat.

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• Introduction

When it comes to enhancing the comfort and aesthetics of your boat, having the perfect cushions can make all the difference. Whether you’re heading out for a relaxing day on the water or embarking on an adventurous sailing trip, having plush and stylish boat cushions can elevate your overall experience. However, buying pre-made boat cushions can be expensive and may not always perfectly fit the unique dimensions of your boat’s seating area.

The good news is that you can easily make your boat cushions with just a few materials and some basic sewing skills. By following these step-by-step instructions, you’ll be able to create custom boat cushions that not only provide optimal comfort but also match your personal style.

Before we dive into the process, let’s take a look at the materials you’ll need for this project.

Key Takeaways:

• Create custom boat cushions by measuring, choosing durable fabric, cutting foam, sewing covers, and adding finishing touches. Enjoy a personalized and comfortable boating experience with your unique cushions.
• Making boat cushions is a fun and rewarding DIY project. With the right materials and steps, you can craft stylish, weather-resistant cushions that elevate your boat’s comfort and aesthetics.

Read more : How To Recover Boat Cushions

• Materials Needed

Before you begin making your boat cushions, gather the following materials:

• Foam: Choose high-density foam that is suitable for outdoor use. Measure and purchase enough foam to cover the seating area of your boat.
• Fabric: Select a durable, UV-resistant fabric that complements your boat’s interior design. Make sure to choose a fabric that is easy to clean and water-resistant.
• Thread: Use a heavy-duty thread that can withstand the wear and tear of outdoor use.
• Measuring tape: A measuring tape will help you accurately measure the dimensions of your seating area.
• Fabric scissors: Invest in a pair of sharp fabric scissors for precise cutting.
• Sewing machine: While it is possible to sew the cushion covers by hand, a sewing machine will make the process faster and more efficient.
• Zippers or fasteners (optional): If you prefer removable cushion covers, you may need zippers or fasteners to secure the cushions in place.

Now that you have all the necessary materials, let’s move on to the step-by-step process of making your boat cushions .

• Step 1: Measuring

The first step in making boat cushions is to accurately measure the dimensions of your seating area. This will ensure that your cushions fit snugly and provide maximum comfort. Here’s how to do it:

• Clean the seating area: Before taking measurements, make sure the seating area is clean and free from any debris that could affect the accuracy of your measurements.
• Measure the length and width: Use a measuring tape to measure the length and width of the seating area. Take the measurements from the inside edges of the seating area, ensuring that you capture the entire space.
• Account for thickness: If you want your cushions to have a certain thickness, add the desired thickness measurement to your length and width measurements. This will account for the foam that will be added later.
• Measure any angles or curves: If your seating area has any angles or curves, use a flexible measuring tape or string to capture the shape accurately.
• Note the measurements: Write down the measurements in a format that you can easily refer to later. This will help you calculate the amount of foam and fabric needed for your boat cushions.

Remember to double-check your measurements to eliminate any errors before moving on to the next step. Accurate measurements are crucial to ensuring well-fitting boat cushions.

Now that you have measured your seating area, it’s time to move on to choosing the fabric for your boat cushions in Step 2.

• Step 2: Choosing the Fabric

Choosing the right fabric for your boat cushions is essential. Since boat cushions are regularly exposed to sunlight, water, and other outdoor elements, it’s important to select a fabric that is durable, water-resistant, and UV-resistant. Here’s how to choose the perfect fabric:

• Consider the outdoor conditions: Think about the typical weather conditions your boat will be exposed to. If you frequently sail in a sunny or humid area, opt for a fabric that offers excellent UV protection and is resistant to mildew and fading.
• Look for water-resistant properties: To prevent mold and moisture damage, choose a fabric that is specifically designed to repel water. Fabrics with a water-resistant coating or those made from synthetic materials like polyester or acrylic are ideal choices.
• Check durability: Boat cushions are subjected to frequent use, so it’s crucial to choose a fabric that can withstand wear and tear. Look for a fabric with a high abrasion resistance rating to ensure longevity.
• Consider cleaning and maintenance: Boat cushions are prone to spills and stains. Opt for a fabric that is easy to clean and maintain. Look for fabrics that can be wiped clean or are machine washable for convenience.
• Choose a style: Lastly, consider the aesthetic aspects. Select a fabric color and pattern that complements your boat’s interior design and personal style. This is an opportunity to add a touch of personality to your boat cushions.

When you have found the ideal fabric, ensure that you purchase enough material according to your earlier measurements. It’s always better to have extra fabric to account for any mistakes or future repairs.

Now that you have chosen your fabric, let’s move on to the next step: cutting the foam for your boat cushions.

• Step 3: Cutting the Foam

Now that you have your measurements and fabric ready, it’s time to cut the foam for your boat cushions. Follow these steps to ensure accurate and precise cuts:

• Lay out your foam: Find a clean and spacious area where you can lay out your foam. Ensure that the surface is flat to achieve accurate measurements and cuts.
• Transfer measurements: Use a pen or marker to transfer the measurements you took earlier onto the foam. Mark the length and width, making sure to include the desired thickness as well.
• Double-check measurements: Take a moment to double-check your measurements. It’s crucial to ensure accuracy before cutting the foam.
• Use a sharp knife: With a sharp knife or electric foam cutter, carefully cut along the marked lines. Applying even pressure and using smooth, steady motions will result in clean and precise cuts.
• Trim any uneven edges: After cutting the main pieces of foam, check for any uneven edges. Trim them using a foam saw or a serrated knife to achieve a uniform shape.
• Check the fit: Place the cut foam pieces onto the seating area of your boat to check if they fit properly. Trim any excess foam if required to achieve the desired fit.

Remember to exercise caution when handling the foam and cutting tools to prevent any accidents or injuries. Once you have successfully cut the foam, you can proceed to the next step: sewing the cushion covers.

When making boat cushions, use marine-grade fabric and high-density foam to ensure durability and water resistance. Be sure to use UV-resistant thread for stitching to prevent sun damage.

Read also : 13 Best Boat Cushions For 2024

• Step 4: Sewing the Cushion Covers

With the foam cut to size, it’s time to start sewing the cushion covers. This step will involve creating the fabric envelope that will hold the foam in place. Follow these steps to sew the cushion covers:

• Prepare your sewing machine: Set up your sewing machine with a heavy-duty needle suitable for sewing thick fabrics. Thread the machine with a thread that matches the color of your fabric.
• Measure and cut the fabric: Using your earlier measurements, add an extra inch to each side to allow for seam allowances. Measure and cut enough fabric to create a top and bottom cover for each foam piece.
• Pin the fabric: Place the fabric pieces together, right sides facing each other. Pin the edges to secure them in place for sewing.
• Sew the edges: Sew along the pinned edges, leaving one side open. Use a straight stitch and reinforce the corners with backstitches for added strength.
• Trim excess fabric: Once sewn, trim any excess fabric and clip the corners to reduce bulkiness and achieve neat, crisp corners.
• Turn the cover right side out: Carefully turn the cover right side out through the open side, gently pushing out the corners to make them smooth and sharp.
• Repeat for all cushion covers: Repeat these steps for each cushion cover, ensuring consistency in size and sewing techniques.

Once you have completed sewing all the cushion covers, you can move on to the next step: adding zippers or fasteners, if desired.

• Step 5: Adding Zippers or Fasteners

In this step, you have the option to add zippers or fasteners to your boat cushion covers. This will allow you to easily remove and clean the covers or change them out when needed. Follow these steps to add zippers or fasteners:

• Decide on the closure method: Determine whether you want to use zippers, snaps, Velcro, or other types of fasteners to secure your cushion covers.
• Measure and mark the placement: Decide where you want the closure to be located on each cushion cover. Mark the placement with pins or fabric pen.
• Prepare the closure: If you’re using zippers, cut them to the desired length, making sure they are slightly shorter than the width of the cushion cover opening. If you’re using snaps or Velcro, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installation.
• Sew the closure: Attach the zipper or fasteners to the fabric according to your markings. For zippers, sew them in place using a zipper foot attachment on your sewing machine. For snaps or Velcro, stitch them securely onto the fabric.
• Test the closure: Once the closures are attached, test them to ensure they open and close smoothly without any resistance or snags.
• Repeat for all cushion covers: Repeat these steps for each cushion cover that you want to have a closure.

Adding zippers or fasteners to your boat cushion covers will provide convenience and versatility, allowing you to easily maintain and update your cushions as needed. Once you have completed this step, you can move on to attaching the foam to the covers in the next step.

• Step 6: Attaching the Foam to the Covers

With your cushion covers ready, it’s time to attach the foam to the covers to create the final boat cushions. Follow these steps to securely attach the foam:

• Prepare the cushion covers: Open the cushion covers and lay them flat, with the interior side facing up.
• Place the foam inside: Carefully insert the cut foam pieces into their respective cushion covers. Ensure that the foam is centered and fits snugly inside the cover.
• Tuck the corners: Gently tuck the corners of the foam into the corners of the cushion cover to ensure a smooth and tight fit.
• Close the cushion covers: Zip up or fasten the closures of the cushion covers, securing the foam inside.
• Check the fit: Place the cushion onto the seating area of your boat to check the fit. Adjust the foam if needed to achieve the desired comfort and appearance.
• Ensure proper alignment: Double-check that the cushion covers are aligned properly, with any patterns or designs lined up symmetrically.

Attaching the foam to the covers will ensure that the cushions stay in place and maintain their shape during use. Once you have completed this step, you’re almost done! All that’s left is to add any finishing touches in the final step.

• Step 7: Finishing Touches

In the final step, it’s time to add some finishing touches to your boat cushions. These small details can enhance the appearance and functionality of the cushions. Here are some ideas for adding those finishing touches:

• Trimming and piping: If desired, you can add decorative trim or piping to the edges of your cushion covers. This can give your cushions a polished and professional look.
• Embroidery or applique: Consider adding embroidered designs or appliques to personalize your boat cushions. This can be a fun way to showcase your creativity and add a unique touch.
• Non-slip backing: To prevent the cushions from sliding around during boating activities, you can add a non-slip backing to the cushion covers. This will provide extra stability and comfort.
• Cushion ties: If you wish to secure the cushions to the boat seats, you can attach ties or straps to the cushion covers. This will help keep the cushions in place, especially during rough waters.
• Cushion inserts: For added comfort and support, you can insert lightweight foam inserts or batting between the cover and the foam. This will give the cushions a plumper and more luxurious feel.

Consider your preferences and the overall style of your boat when deciding on the finishing touches. Remember that these details are optional but can add a personalized touch and make your boat cushions truly unique.

With the finishing touches complete, take a moment to step back and admire your custom-made boat cushions. Not only do they provide optimum comfort for your boating adventures, but they also reflect your personal style.

Congratulations! You have successfully made your own boat cushions. Now it’s time to sit back, relax, and enjoy the comfort and beauty of your newly crafted cushions while out on the water.

What are you waiting for? Go ahead and start planning your next boating trip, knowing that you have created the perfect cushions to enhance your experience!

Read more : How To Make Cushions

Crafting your own boat cushions is a rewarding endeavor that allows you to create custom, comfortable, and stylish seating for your boat. With a few basic materials, some measurements, and sewing skills, you can transform your boat’s interior into a cozy and inviting space.

In this step-by-step guide, we’ve covered everything you need to know to make your boat cushions. From measuring and choosing the right fabric, to cutting foam and sewing cushion covers, we’ve provided you with the necessary instructions to complete each stage of the process.

By taking the time to select durable, weather-resistant fabric and accurately measuring your seating area, you’ll ensure that your boat cushions fit perfectly and withstand the demands of outdoor use. Adding zippers or fasteners allows for easy maintenance, while finishing touches like trimmings, embroidery, or non-slip backing add a personal touch.

As you embark on your boating adventures, your custom-made boat cushions will not only provide utmost comfort but also showcase your unique style and craftsmanship.

So, don’t hesitate to gather the materials, measure your seating area, choose the perfect fabric, and start sewing. Before you know it, you’ll have beautiful boat cushions that will elevate your boating experience and impress your guests.

Enjoy the process, get creative, and have fun making your boat cushions!

• Frequently Asked Questions about How To Make Boat Cushions

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Making new boat seat cushions

• Thread starter andgott
• Start date Jan 21, 2011

Master Chief Petty Officer

• Jan 21, 2011

Chief Petty Officer

Re: Making new boat seat cushions AWESOME post! I did find some polyester thread in small spool, for heavy wear seams I doubled back over it. It may have been at Jo-ann's. How can I tell if it's polyester thread? Burn it, or melt it? I found some big spools at a thrift store for cheap.  

Re: Making new boat seat cushions I'm not sure with this kind of fabric but on upholstery type fabrics the piping is always cut on a "bias". 45 degree angle, instead of the threads running with & perpendicular, the threads run at a 45 degree angle to the cord or length of the strip you cut for it. Does that make sense? I worked selling reupholstery years ago & that was one of the features. If that's not done the piping will pull apart very quickly.  

Re: Making new boat seat cushions This is a really helpful thread, I've been thinking about getting a commercial machine and doing some upholstry and top work ^^ Thanks for the inspiration  

Woodonglass

Supreme mariner, lieutenant commander.

Re: Making new boat seat cushions Very nice write up!!! If I had more time in my days I would give it a try for my boat after reading that, but for now I have found a lady to do it for me. I definitely think there will be interest in some more write up from you! Good Job!  

usarmyharley

Re: Making new boat seat cushions man this is great i cant wait till this spring to start workin on mine...great write up it would be cool for this to even be a sticky because i know it will help alot of people out on the internet....this spring im sure i will have plenty of questions for you but your directions were really straightforward and to the point so i think ill be able to accomplish it  

Unleadedaddict

andgott said: Thanks. Dave- This can be a great project to get the wife/significant other involved in the boat... I know that often times a boat restore creates a bit of tension in a relationship, especially when we start spending more time/money on the boat than we do on the woman You'll also feel a little less out of place when you're holding your number waiting at the cutting counter at the fabric store with all the old ladies buying their quilt fabric... -Andrew Click to expand...

Petty Officer 1st Class

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Making new boat cushions... vinyl bottom or not?

• Thread starter sbcwolff
• Start date May 8, 2020
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

We had ours done last year and kept the vinyl underside. I think it keeps them from sliding around too.  

I believe the vinyl also helps prevent moisture wicking up into the foam. An alternative would be to insert a vinyl layer between new cover and foam. Maybe the Sailrite folks can give you a more authoritive opinion.  

Cushion Underlining - Sold by the Yard - Sailrite

+1 for vinyl  

Velcro strips also work well to stop sliding. Better, in fact. I've had both.  

When I had new cushion covers made I chose vinyl for ease of cleaning and the shop recommended using a breathable fabric on the underside. It seems like a vinyl coated mesh. I took their advice because it was based on their years of professional experience. That was 2007 and the cushions still look almost new. No problem with them sliding around because, on my boat, the cushions are all irregular shapes that kind of lock themselves in place. No odor either. The cushions are stored in the boat, stood on edge for air circulation, during the winter.  

Capt Robbie

sbcwolff, Staple rug non skid pad to the seat, works well for me, I had my foam warped in plastic before inserting into the fabric. The plasic keeps the foam dry from wet bathing suits, just the cloth gets damp and dries in minutes. I used cloth on both sides so that they are reversible. If I ever do it again I would install zippers on the edge so that they would be easer to wash.  

Capt Robbie said: I had my foam warped in plastic before inserting into the fabric. Click to expand

Using Silk Film to Shrink Foam

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I'm an interior decorator. Here are 10 things I'd never have in my living room.

• As an interior decorator, I value comfort and cohesion when it comes to designing a living room .
• Loose couch cushions can create a frustrating maintenance routine as they need to be rearranged.
• Trade gallery walls for large statement art pieces to avoid overstimulation in your home .

As an interior decorator, there are some items I'd stay away from when designing a living room .

Here are 10 things I'd never have in my living room.

A small rug can detract from the room's cohesion and make it appear smaller.

If the rug in your room is too small, it can seem like all of your furniture is floating around without something to ground each piece. A small rug can also make a room feel cramped since it's essentially at the center of a furniture cluster.

Think of a rug as a place mat rather than a centerpiece for your furniture. Extending beyond the furniture a bit expands the living-room area and makes the room feel more spacious.

As a general rule, choose a rug large enough to measure 6 to 8 inches beyond your sofa on either side and have at least two legs from each furniture item sit comfortably on the rug. 

In my opinion, futons are more functional than comfortable.

Due to their functional, lightweight construction, futons are usually smaller with narrower seats and firmer cushions than regular couches.

Since the living room is one of the most-used spaces in the home, I wouldn't sacrifice comfort or style for the occasional guest. Utilize a futon in the home office or flex space instead.

If you need to double your living room as a guest space, consider buying a more comfortable sleeper sofa that can transform from a couch to a bed instead.

Vertical plastic blinds won't stand the test of time.

Thin, vertical plastic blinds tend to bend and tear easily and the strings and locking gears can be frustrating to operate.

Window treatments are crucial for privacy, light, and temperature control but they can also elevate your interior decor. As an everyday-use item, quality blinds are an investment that can actually add value to your home.

Instead of settling with a plastic vertical version, opt for 2-inch wooden or shutter blinds or light-filtering shades. Adding quality curtains can also help with temperature control and incorporate personality.

I would never let my couch and coffee table become a conference room.

If your living room is littered with paperwork and looming to-do lists, it might be hard to get out of the work mindset and into chill mode, especially if they both take place at your coffee table.

As more people work from home, it's important to create a comfortable work environment while maintaining separation between the workspace and living areas. If space is limited, split the room into separate zones for work and living so that when you clock out, you can move away from the workspace.

For example, you can set up a workstation with a dedicated desk that faces away from the wall and an open shelving unit or a set of drawers that divide the room.

Avoid using just overhead and bright-white lighting.

Solely relying on overhead light fixtures can make your space feel dark and small. Conversely, if the room only has recessed lighting or white bulbs, it can feel too harsh.

To create a relaxing living room , spread the light around with a variety of fixtures at varying heights, control brightness with dimmer switches, and use light bulbs with a warmer color temperature to create an inviting glow.

Exposed wires are an eyesore with a quick fix.

Mounting your TV or installing plug-in wall sconces can elevate the living room but exposed wires create visual clutter and can make a space look unfinished.

If you're unable to run your wires through the wall, installing a cord-concealing track that matches your wall color is a quick and easy option.

But more often than not, I recommend just keeping your electronics off the walls and using the opportunity to invest in a nice TV stand. There are a lot of cable organizer options that are attractive and inexpensive.

Furniture bought for looks probably won't meet my needs for comfort.

A beautiful piece, like a white leather tuxedo couch, can make your living room look like a magazine spread but it may not invite people to get comfortable in your space. 

When investing in furniture, look at your lifestyle and family. For example, if you want guests to lounge in your living room, avoid couches with high-sided armrests and narrow cushion depth 0r rigid accent chairs with wooden arms and firm seats.  

Gallery walls leave me feeling overstimulated and uninspired.

Gallery walls are a scattering of framed posters , small artworks, and family photos typically placed on those huge walls you're not quite sure what to do with. Though it certainly fills the space, a gallery wall can appear as visual clutter if not mindfully curated.

I always recommend keeping small-scale art on table tops and bookshelves and opting for large-scale pieces for the wall to fill the space and make a bolder design statement.

If you love the gallery look, use the same kind of frame for all your pieces and try to incorporate repeating colors and patterns to create the effect that they're all one body of work.

Sectionals with loose back cushions can be frustrating.

Loose back cushions aren't attached to the couch and are often made with removable covers. Though they can be a good selling point for some individuals who want to regularly wash their covers, others will find that they create a frustrating maintenance routine.

When purchasing couches with loose back cushions, consider the weight and density of the cushions and what appeals to you visually. Lightweight cushions will fall down and be easily pushed around the couch so they'll often need to be rearranged. On the other hand, heavy feather cushions will get squished and need regular fluffing.

If you don't want to deal with constant maintenance and fluffing, consider buying a couch with back cushions that are attached to the piece of furniture.

I can't limit myself to the typical 40-by-60-inch throw blankets.

Nothing is more disappointing than cuddling under a fuzzy blanket just to have your toes poke out. Though typical throws are usually about 40 by 60 inches so they won't take up too much space draped over your couch, the size also means you probably won't be able to stretch out underneath.

Instead, find a blanket that's marked as a twin-size or oversized throw blanket. A good throw blanket, especially in a knit fabric, can add a gorgeous cozy texture to your space, fold up tightly, and serve as a versatile piece for you and your overnight guests.

This story was originally published on July 3, 2023, and most recently updated on March 18, 2024.

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The 70+ Best Deals From Amazon's Big Spring Sale (And Across the Internet) This Week

Amazon’s Big Spring Sale kicked off yesterday and lasts through Monday, March 25.

The introduction of yet another Amazon-manufactured sale event sees the online retail giant promising savings on cleaning gear, outdoor essentials, electronics, clothing, and home goods.

But does the sale live up to the hype? We’ve assessed the deals on offer (so far). Most didn’t make the grade, so we dug in to find those that are truly worth the spend.

Below, we’ve rounded up the best deals from Amazon and other retailers offering competing sales, including REI, to find you only the best spring deals on our expert-approved picks.

The best deals on:

Deal spotlight: eufy security video doorbell s220 (battery-powered), deal spotlight: garmin forerunner 255s gps running watch, deal spotlight: paige cindy jeans, lawn and garden, outdoor, camping, and hiking, kitchen and appliance, tech, laptops, and tv, spring clothing and shoes, home and furniture.

Eufy Security Video Doorbell S220 (Battery-Powered) — Our Pick Amazon deal price: $100 ; street price: $180

What we like: Our pick for the best battery-operated smart doorbell camera. Solid performance with exceptional battery life. Sharp 2K image with local or cloud storage options. (Cloud offers 30 days of history for $3 per month or $30 per year, per camera.)

Other things to know: Compatible with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant. Recordings are limited to 60 seconds. Gaps between recordings can last around 8 seconds. Includes Eufy HomeBase. Make sure to clip the on-page coupon to get the deal price.

Read our review of the best smart doorbell camera .

Garmin Forerunner 255S GPS Running Watch — Runner-Up Amazon deal price: $250 ; street price: $350

What we like: One of our runner-up picks for the best GPS running watch. One of the most feature-packed, top-performing models we’ve tested. Accurate distance and route tracking. Solid heart-rate monitoring. Multiband GPS.

Other things to know: Decent battery life (about 14 days), but much shorter than that of our top pick. No touchscreen. Not quite as accurate at tracking road runs as our top pick. One-year warranty. Music-streaming version is also on sale for $50 more.

Read our review of the best GPS running watches .

Paige Cindy Jeans — Top Pick Paige deal price: $164 ; street price: $219

What we like: Our decadently soft and stretchy women's jeans pick. Straight-leg, high-rise style, fitted through the waist and hips. Body-conscious yet totally lounge-able. Testers of different sizes and shapes found these jeans flattering and wildly comfortable.

Other things to know: Stretchier denim tends to (you guessed it) stretch out over time. 28-inch inseam may be too short for some. Destroyed hem isn't for everyone. Run slightly large; we recommend sizing down if between sizes. Use code PAIGEFAMILY2024. Doesn't quite compare to deals we saw over Black Friday, but still a good value.

Read our review of the best women's jeans .

Roborock Q5+ Robot Vacuum — Our Pick Roborock deal price: $370 ; street price: $550

What we like: Our self-emptying robot vacuum pick. Better battery life, app navigation, mapping, and voice command response to Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant than other bots. Large bin. Excels at cleaning hard floors and low- to medium-pile carpets.

Other things to know: Comes with a charging station that empties debris into a disposable bag. Like nearly all bots we tested, it struggles with debris near thresholds and baseboards. A new low price, but not by much. Use coupon code ROBOROCKS.

Read our review of the best robot vacuums .

Roborock Q5 Robot Vacuum — Our Pick Roborock deal price: $210 ; street price: $430

What we like: Our pick for the best robot vacuum. Offers better mapping, easier app navigation, a longer battery life, and more reliable voice commands through Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant than other models we tested. Excels on low and medium-pile carpet and hard floors.

Other things to know: Doesn't come with a self-emptying charging station like the "plus" model. Like almost all bots we tested, struggles with debris near thresholds and baseboards. One-year warranty, but few replacement parts. New low price, but not by much. Use coupon code ROBOROCKS.

Ego ST1511T Power+ 15″ Powerload String Trimmer — Top Pick Lowe’s deal price: $180 ; street price: $220 Amazon deal price: $180 ; street price: $220

What we like: Our top pick for the best string trimmer. Outperformed the other brands’ trimmers in run time and power in testing. Telescoping shaft and handle are easy to adjust and make the tool comfortable to use.

Other things to know: The charger can deliver a full battery in about 40 minutes.

Read our review of the best string trimmers .

Eley 5/8-inch Polyurethane Garden Hose (50 Feet) — Upgrade Pick Eley deal price: $103 ; street price: $122

What we like: Our upgrade garden hose pick. Much lighter, easier to loop, more durable, and resists folding or kinking compared to other options. Large brass fittings at the ends are easy to tighten by hand or wrench. Absolutely hosetastic—the best we’ve ever tested.

Other things to know: Pricey—even when on sale—but if you want a hose that's better in every way and are willing to pay for it, this is the one to get. 10-year warranty. Deal price is for the 50-foot length.

Read our review of the best garden hose and hose reel .

Govee Outdoor String Lights (96 Feet) — Another Good Option Amazon deal price: $65 ; street price: $90

What we like: Another good string light in our guide to the best smart outdoor lighting. Affordably priced and available in a 48-foot set and a 96-foot set. They provide far more special-effects options than our sting light pick.

Other things to know: Very overwhelming app. The strands have fewer bulbs per foot than our string-lights pick, and they don’t feel as sturdy. Frosted bulbs. Deal is for the 96-foot length; be sure to clip the on-page coupon.

Read our review of the best smart outdoor lighting for backyards pathways and more .

Ego LM2135SP Power+ 21″ Select Cut Lawn Mower with extra battery — Runner-Up Lowe’s deal price: $600 with store pickup ; street price: $950 Amazon deal price: $600 ; street price: $950

What we like: Our runner-up pick for the best lawn mower, bundled with an extra Ego battery. Battery-powered self-propelled mower can run for about an hour on a single battery charge. No need for gas, oil checks, or fuel storage, and no noxious emissions. Considerably quieter than gas mowers.

Other things to know: First deal we’ve seen since Black Friday. Minimal maintenance compared with gas models. A little less powerful and shorter run time than our top pick, but additional battery easily makes up for primary battery’s capacity. Extra Ego BA2800T battery has 56-volt, 5 Ah, 280 Wh capacity, usually between $200 and $300 when purchased separately.

Read our review of the best lawn mower .

Thermacell EX90 Mosquito Repellent — Also Great Deal price: $40 with single-use promo code MEMBER24, REI membership required ; street price: $50

What we like: Our more rugged spatial mosquito repellent pick for camping or other outdoor activities. Odorlessly kept a bedroom-size area mosquito-free. Same nine-hour battery life and repellent qualities as our top pick with a more compact design, rubbery grip areas on the sides, a lanyard and carabiner, and a locking lid.

Other things to know: Wind can drastically affect performance. Works only against mosquitos. Takes about 15 minutes to protect an area. On sale for REI members with single-use promo code MEMBER24.

Read our review of the best mosquito-control gear for your patio or yard .

The North Face Wawona 6 Tent (2023) — Upgrade Pick REI deal price: $350 ; street price: $500

What we like: Our upgrade pick camping tent. Dome-style with nearly vertical walls, high ceilings, and a single mudroom-sized vestibule. Straightforward to pitch, and made with sturdy, light materials.

Other things to know: Expensive, but you get value for your money. The Wawona 6’s footprint, or protective groundsheet, is sold separately. We recommend setting up with two people, but one person can manage in about 15 minutes. Limited lifetime warranty. Available in green/gray or orange/tan. Deal ends March 25.

Read our review of the best camping tents .

Cotopaxi Allpa 35L Carry-On Travel Backpack — Our Pick Deal price: $160 with single-use promo code MEMBER24, REI membership required ; street price: $200

What we like: Our pick for the best small carry-on travel backpack for most situations. Easy-to-pack clamshell design and highly adjustable straps. Has handles on all four sides. Protected by a full lifetime warranty and has the build quality to back that up. Made with 1,680-denier ballistic nylon and includes a rain fly.

Other things to know: Minimal amount of administrative organization. We’d love to see a permanent all-nylon alternative to the TPU-lined front panel, which can flake over time. On sale for REI members with single-use promo code MEMBER24.

Read our review of the best carry-on travel backpacks .

Peak Design Travel Backpack 45L — Also Great Deal price: $240 with single-use promo code MEMBER24, REI membership required ; street price: $300

What we like: Our pick for the best large carry-on travel backpack. Features easy accessibility, clever tuck-away straps, and an elegant way of expanding and contracting. It’s adjustable and customizable, and if you spring for the extra cubes and organizers, it’s an almost-perfect system for photographers and gearheads.

Other things to know: Comes with a lifetime warranty. Committing to the entire system of packing and camera cubes adds extra cost to an already expensive bag. On sale for REI members with single-use promo code MEMBER24. Not the absolute best sale we’ve seen.

NiteRider Swift 300 Bike Light — Budget Pick Deal price: $24 with single-use promo code MEMBER24, REI membership required ; street price: $30

What we like: Our headlight budget pick for the best commuter bike light is small and sturdy, with a swiveling strap and decent side visibility. Can emit 300 lumens for up to two hours and flash for 12. Adjusts to fit most sizes and shapes of handlebars.

Other things to know: Not suited to longer or darker routes. Lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects, one-year warranty on its rechargeable battery cells. Already affordable but rarely sees discounts. On sale for REI members with single-use promo code MEMBER24.

Read our review of the best commuter bike lights .

Yeti Tundra Haul Hard Cooler — Our Pick Deal price: $340 with single-use promo code MEMBER24, REI membership required ; street price: $425

What we like: Our pick for the best cooler with wheels. Easy to haul across long distances. Durable wheels. Thick-gauge welded aluminum handle doesn’t strain or bend. Feels similar to wheeling around high-end luggage.

Other things to know: No internal divider. Contents may shuffle a bit when it’s tipped at an angle. Available in five colors. On sale for REI members with single-use promo code MEMBER24.

Read our review of the best coolers .

Blundstone Original 500 Series Boot — Staff Favorite Deal price: $168 with single-use promo code MEMBER24, REI membership required ; street price: $210

What we like: A casual leather boot loved by Wirecutter staff and many others around the world. Pull-on, ankle-high, with an elastic panel. Comfortable, durable rubber sole. Uppers made of extra-thick leather. Ergonomically engineered to reduce fatigue. Can last for years with daily wear.

Other things to know: Exceptionally light for a pair of boots, about 14 ounces per pair. Unisex. Best price and size availability is for the stout brown color. On sale for REI members with single-use promo code MEMBER24.

Read our ode to the Blundstone boots .

Panel Sound USAPA Approved Fiberglass Pickleball Paddles — Staff Favorite Deal price: $20 in select colors ; street price: $35

What we like: A staff-favorite pickleball paddle set. Lightweight and comfortable to hold. Grippy handles and rubbery faces absorb some of the ball’s velocity. Good for beginners.

Other things to know: Set includes two paddles, four indoor balls, a carrying case, and two cooling towels. Deal is for the red paddle set.

Read our review of the best pickleball equipment for playing at home .

Thermos Funtainer Food Jar (10 ounce, 2-pack) — Also Great Amazon deal price: $16 ; street price: $22

What we like: A two-pack of our kids pick for best food thermos. Durable and easy for small hands to open. Never leaked in our tests, and the lid never cracked during drop tests.

Other things to know: 10-ounce container is best for kids (or for a small adult lunch). Doesn't retain heat for as long as our top pick (130 °F after 6 hours, vs 144 °F for our top pick). Best suited for keeping foods hot, not great for keeping foods cold.

Read our review of the best food thermos .

Tramontina Gourmet Tri-Ply Clad 12-Inch Fry Pan — Runner-Up Amazon deal price: $38 ; street price: $50

What we like: Our runner-up pick for the best skillet. Allows moisture to evaporate quickly, browns chicken skin as well as pans costing almost twice the price, and is a comfortable weight with a rounded, ergonomically shaped stick handle. Cooked-on food released easily in our tests.

Other things to know: Has slightly steeper sides than our top pick. Developed some discoloration on the surface and underside that was almost impossible to clean.

Read our review of the best skillet .

Simple Modern Trek Tumbler (40 ounce) — Staff Favorite Amazon deal price: $24 ; street price: $30

What we like: Our favorite high-quality, budget-friendly Stanley tumbler dupe. Performed just as well as its costlier competitors. Kept ice frozen for over 24 hours and stopping leaks with its screw-top lid. Available in over 20 colors and patterns, more than the competition offers.

Other things to know: Most Trek tumblers are dishwasher-safe, though some of the patterned options are hand-wash-only to preserve their design. On sale in a few multi-color options.

Read our review of the best Stanley dupes .

Cuisinart Frozen Yogurt-Ice Cream & Sorbet Maker (ICE-21) — Top Pick Amazon deal price: $56 ; street price: $60

What we like: Our top ice cream maker pick. Made some of the smoothest and most delicious ice cream in our tests. More affordable than a compressor model. Churns ice cream faster than the competition.

Other things to know: Bowl insert must be pre-frozen overnight, which requires planning. Extra freezer bowls, required to make multiple batches in a row, sold separately.

Read our review of the best ice cream maker .

Atlas Coffee Club 2-Bag Subscription — Gift Pick Atlas Coffee Club deal price: $14 ; street price: $28

What we like: A coffee subscription service we recommend in multiple gift guides. Atlas Coffee Club delivers satisfying coffee at a low price, with plenty of customization, and you always have something new to try. Sources beans from countries all over the world. Each bag of coffee includes a postcard with fun facts about the country’s coffee industry.

Other things to know: The subscription is highly customizable. New subscribers can use code WCMARCH50 for 50% off their first two-bag subscription. Matches the best previous pricing we've posted.

Read our review of the best gifts for coffee lovers .

Hamilton Beach Temp Tracker 6 Quart Slow Cooker — Also Great Deal price: $50 for Costco members ; street price: $70

What we like: Our slow cooker pick for longer cook times. Similar to our top pick but offers more precise temperature control. 24-hour timer instead of 14 hours. More built-in slots for a probe thermometer. Settings include high, medium, low, and warm.

Other things to know: Ran a little hotter than our top pick in our tests, and we’re not convinced that everyone needs the extras. Costco membership required. Price includes shipping.

Read our review of the best slow cooker .

Cuisinart CPT-122 2-Slice Compact Plastic Toaster — Top Pick Deal price: $24 ; street price: $30

What we like: Our longtime top pick for the best two-slot toaster. Produced the most evenly browned bread in our testing. Wide range of settings and easy-to-use controls. Wide slots for thick-cut bagels.

Other things to know: Three-year warranty. Available in white. Plastic body and levers don’t look quite as nice as a metal finish. Heating-element wires of modern toasters are subject to corrosion over time.

Read our review of the best toaster .

Gracula Garlic Crusher — Gift Pick Deal price: $15 ; street price: $25

What we like: A Dracula-inspired kitchen gadget recommended in multiple Wirecutter gift guides. Any cooking-inclined classic-horror fan, kid, or year-round Halloween celebrant would “vant” this as a gift. Plop a few cloves into the base (his cape), pop on the top (his head), and twist at the neck to mince.

Other things to know: Make sure to remove chopped garlic quickly—vampires can’t tolerate garlic for long (plus, it’s a nightmare to clean when dried).

Read our review of the best Valentine’s Day gifts under $25 .

YouCopia StoraLid Lid Organizer (Large) — Staff Favorite Deal price: $16 ; street price: $20

What we like: A staff-favorite lid organizer we like for keeping things tidy in the cabinet. Keeps food-storage container lids organized and easily accessible with minimal human effort. Adjustable tabbed dividers for separating lid sizes.

Other things to know: Only as useful as your willingness to use it and organize. Needs large empty space to fit into a cabinet. Deal for the large size, recurring sale price.

Read our review of how this $20 lid organizer has tamed the chaos inside one writer’s kitchen cabinets .

Philips GoZero Sparkling Water Maker — Budget Pick Deal price: $54 ; street price: $64

What we like: Our budget soda maker pick has a sleek and attractive no-frills look. Makes good-tasting seltzer with lively bubbles. Surprisingly good quality for the price.

Other things to know: Assembly can be a pain. CO 2 cylinder is sold separately for around $30. If you have empty cylinders, you can exchange them for a discount.

Read our review of the best soda maker .

YouCopia Storemore Expandable Adjustable Pan and Lid Rack — Our Pick Deal price: $18 ; street price: $30

What we like: A variant of our adjustable bakeware rack pick. We recommend the bakeware rack in several of our articles on kitchen organization; this pan-and-lid rack has a similar design but extends up to 22 inches, and the wire dividers are shaped to account for lid handles. Easy way to organize a variety of kitchen items.

Other things to know: Comes with 10 adjustable dividers. At 13 inches wide without expanding, it’s not as compact as our recommended bakeware rack. Additional and replacement dividers are sold separately by the merchant.

Read our review of the best small-kitchen ideas to create more space .

OXO Brew 8-Cup Coffee Maker — Another Good Option Deal price: $140 ; street price: $180

What we like: A speedy drip coffee maker we like that can make pour-over-quality single servings in addition to full pots. Small footprint and simple design. Brews coffee with well-rounded flavor. Can brew directly into the thermal carafe or a mug.

Other things to know: Lacks auto-brew function, clock, and timer.

Read our review of the best drip coffee maker .

Anker Soundcore Space A40 Earbuds — Top Pick Amazon deal price: $50 ; street price: $80

What we like: Our top pick for best wireless Bluetooth earbuds. Solid sound quality, great battery life, and active noise cancellation. Each earbud can be used independently. Dual-device connectivity. Should fit most ears comfortably.

Other things to know: Does not support voice-activated assistants like Alexa and Siri. IPX4 water-resistance. 18-month warranty. Limited touch controls. This deal lacks the $5 gift card we typically see bundled with these earbuds.

Read our review of the best wireless Bluetooth earbuds .

Nebula Mars 3 Air Portable Mini Projector — Top Pick Amazon deal price: $450 ; street price: $600

What we like: Our top pick for the best portable mini projector. 1080p projector that offers good image brightness and contrast with above-average sound and easy setup. Runs off an internal battery for true portability (up to 3.5 hours of runtime in our tests). Uses the Google TV streaming platform, which is our favorite.

Other things to know: Main downsides include the lack of a USB-C port and the awkwardly designed underside, which limits the tripods and mounts it can attach to. Clip the on-page coupon to get the deal.

Read our review of the best portable mini projector .

Apple MacBook Air (M1, 2020, 8 GB RAM, 256 GB SSD) — Budget Pick (For Now) Walmart deal price: $700 ; street price: $750

What we like: Our soon-to-be-replaced budget pick from our guide to the best MacBooks. Still enough memory and storage for most day-to-day work. Approximately 14-hour battery life. Lightweight with solid construction, a comfortable keyboard, and industry-leading customer support. M1 processor still good enough for everyday tasks, non-power users.

Other things to know: M3 processor is finally out and the M1 is starting to show its age after three years. Still a worthwhile everyday laptop, but we will likely see better deals in the future as M3 adoption becomes more widespread. Comes with 8 GB RAM, 256 GB SSD, 13.3-inch Retina display, one 3.5mm jack, and two Thunderbolt 3 ports. Available in select finishes. $30 below the previous lowest price.

Read our review of the best MacBooks .

Vantrue N4 Dash Cam — Top Pick Vantrue deal price: $175 ; street price: $220

What we like: Our top pick for best dash cam. Crisp, super-high-resolution footage day and night. Front-facing, interior, and rear-facing cameras. 24-hour parked-car monitoring. Compact and relatively unobtrusive. Includes 12-volt car charger.

Other things to know: Performance suffers in temperatures below 14 degrees Fahrenheit. Lacks app connectivity to remotely view and download video. Use code WIREVAN4 for deal from Vantrue. Matches low.

Read our review of the best dash cam .

Apple AirTag Bluetooth Tracker — Our Pick Deal price: $24 ; street price: $29

What we like: Our pick for the best Bluetooth tracker for iOS users leverages Apple’s huge network of devices to find lost goods. Impressively accurate. Replaceable coin battery. If you lose an AirTag (or an item containing or attached to one), you can use the Find My app to see its location or ask Siri to trigger an audible alert.

Other things to know: Doesn’t have any way to ring your phone. No built-in method of attaching to anything. Solid deal for an individual tracker but sales for sets of four typically offer a better price per tracker.

Read our review of the best Bluetooth tracker .

Google Pixel 8 (128 GB, Unlocked) — Top Pick Deal price: $500 ; street price: $620

What we like: Our top pick for the best Android smartphone offers the best version of Android with guaranteed security updates through fall 2030. Has one of the best smartphone cameras we’ve tested. Excellent build quality. Crisp 6.2-inch OLED display and solid wrap-around aluminum frame.

Other things to know: More expensive than previous models. Videos can often look a little grainy but have good color reproduction. Deal is for an unlocked phone with 128 GB of internal storage.

Read our review of the best Android phones .

Soundcore Space One Noise-Cancelling Headphones — Budget Pick Deal price: $80 ; street price: $100

What we like: Our budget pick for the best over-ear noise-cancelling headphones offer impressive noise cancellation and good sound for less than $100. Comfortable and lightweight. 40-hour battery life with ANC on. Offers dual-device connectivity, hear-through mode, and quick-charge feature.

Other things to know: The three noise-reducing microphones can make voices sound compressed and somewhat distant to callers. Sound is customizable via the Soundcore app.

Read our review of the best noise-cancelling headphones .

Garmin Forerunner 255S GPS Running Watch — Runner-Up Deal price: $250 ; street price: $350

Other things to know: Decent battery life (about 14 days), but much shorter than that of our top pick. No touchscreen. Not quite as accurate at tracking road runs as our top pick. One-year warranty.

Garmin Forerunner 255S Music GPS Running Watch — Runner-Up Deal price: $300 ; street price: $380

What we like: Our runner-up pick for the best GPS running watch if listening to music is important for your workouts. Still one of the most feature-packed, top-performing GPS running watches we’ve tested. Includes music streaming and storage capabilities.

Other things to know: Accurate distance and route tracking. Solid heart-rate monitoring. Multiband GPS. Decent battery life, about 14 days. Lacks touchscreen. Much shorter battery life than our top pick. In tracking road runs, it’s not quite as accurate as our top pick. One-year warranty.

Soundcore Motion 300 Bluetooth Speaker — Runner-Up Deal price: $64 ; street price: $80

What we like: Our runner-up pick for the best portable Bluetooth speaker. Good sound quality comparable to that of our top pick but with an emphasis on instruments over vocals. Offers IPX7 waterproofing and had 12 hours of battery life during our tests. USB-C charging.

Other things to know: Larger than our top pick but slimmer. Not as ruggedly built as our top pick. Bluetooth range is shorter than we’d like (60 feet during tests), which is adequate but not impressive these days.

Read our review of the best portable Bluetooth speaker .

Cricut Explore 3 Electronic Cutting Machine — Top Pick Deal price: $250 ; street price: $300

What we like: The top pick in our guide to the best electronic cutting machines from Cricut and Silhouette. Intuitive and easy-to-use software is great for beginners. Superior selection of images and ready-to-make projects.

Other things to know: Faster than other cutting machines but significantly louder. Doesn’t come with a cutting mat and can only cut materials that are 6 inches or longer. Only the second deal we’ve posted on the Explore 3 so far.

Read our review of the best electronic cutting machines .

Mobvoi TicWatch Pro 5 Smartwatch — Our Pick Deal price: $262 ; street price: $350

What we like: Our pick for a long-lasting Android smartwatch. Compact, comfortable design. Runs nearly seven days between recharges. Low-power mode maintains basic functionality for weeks. Dual-layer display. Fast, powerful Snapdragon W5+ Gen 1 processor.

Other things to know: Uses an older version of Wear OS. Phone app is clunky. Amazon Alexa is the only voice-assistant option.

Read our review of the best smartwatch for Android phones .

Brother P-Touch Cube Label Maker — Budget Pick Deal price: $45 ; street price: $60

What we like: Our budget pick for the best label maker. Easy to use. Good for occasional label making. Produces the same high-quality labels and uses the same great design suite as our top pick.

Other things to know: A stripped-down version of our top pick. Lacks automatic cutter and built-in rechargeable battery. Recurring deal price, but rarely drops lower.

Read our review of the best label makers .

Aura Carver Mat Digital Photo Frame — Pick Variant Deal price: $143 ; street price: $180

What we like: A variant of our top digital photo frame pick. Offers easy setup, vivid display, pleasing design, and near-zero pillarboxing. Loading photos and videos remotely is a breeze. Features two frame layers that give the look of a mat picture frame.

Other things to know: The 16:10 aspect ratio isn’t our preferred 4:3. Free Aura app works with iOS and Android phones. Available in black or clay color with white mat.

Read our review of the best digital photo frame .

Smartish Gripmunk with MagSafe for iPhone 15 Case — Our Pick Amazon deal price: $15 ; street price: $20

What we like: Our pick for the best basic phone case for the iPhone 15. A one-piece case made of soft, rubber-like plastic (TPU, or thermoplastic polyurethane), and provides more than adequate coverage and protection. Easy to install but won't stretch out. Affordable but doesn’t feel cheap.

Other things to know: Has been our pick for the best basic iPhone case for years now and continues to maintain that spot, but is a plain case with not much going on. Clip the on-page coupon, select colors on sale. The iPhone 15 Plus, Pro, and Pro Max versions are also on sale in a few colors.

Read our review of the best iPhone cases .

A.L.C. Renzo Pleated Midi Dress — Our Pick Bloomingdale's deal price: $446 ; street price: $595

What we like: Our pick for the ultimate little black cocktail dress. Delicate pleats, a high neck, and exposed shoulders make this a refined choice for an evening out. Breathable polyester felt softer and more luxurious than many silk dresses we tested.

Other things to know: The priciest dress we recommend, but worth the investment. Designed to hit midcalf, but may hit closer to ankle level if under 5-foot-5. Sold in sizes 00 to 14.

Read our review of the best little black dresses .

Sungait Vintage Round Sunglasses (Polarized Lenses, 2-Pack) — Our Pick Amazon deal price: $15 ; street price: $18

What we like: Our cheap round sunglasses pick. Also recommended in gift guides and outdoor guides. Comfortable and sturdy. Complements a variety of face shapes. Keyhole nose bridge. Mini screwdriver provided with purchase. Logo-free and unisex.

Other things to know: Lifetime warranty (rare at this price). Some Sungait pairs sold on Amazon don't have polarized lenses, double-check before buying. Deal is for a 2-pack in select frame colors. Clip on-page coupon to get deal for some colors.

Read our review of the best cheap sunglasses .

Nike Blazer Mid '77 Vintage Sneakers (Men's) — Staff Favorite Nike deal price: $72 ; street price: $105

What we like: A staff favorite alternative to Nike Air Force 1s. Versatile mid-height sneakers with a vintage feel. Sleek, leather upper with suede details. Solid rubber sole provides strong foot support and traction.

Other things to know: Free Nike membership required to use coupon code SPRING and for free shipping. Several colors are on sale, but the tan option offers a wide range of sizes for a neutral color.

Read our review of the Nike sneakers our experts prefer over Air Force Ones .

Nike Air Force 1 '07 Low (Women's) — Our Pick Dick's Sporting Goods deal price: $59 ; street price: $100

What we like: The crisp upper. The bright white. The striking lines. Our streetwear and sneakerhead staple pick in our guide to the best white sneakers. Super comfortable.

Other things to know: Style might seem bulky if you prefer slim shoes. Deal price is for the bronze brown trim. Ships free with Dick's ScoreCard membership (free to join).

Read our review of the best white sneakers .

Universal Standard Next-to-Naked Legging — Our Pick Universal Standard deal price: $15 with code WIRECUTTER, new customers only, limit one per customer ; street price: $96

What we like: Our lightweight leggings pick for layering (or to replace your everyday pants). Soft, stretchy, and comfortable enough to wear all day. Thinner than most pairs we tried. Waistband didn’t pinch and stayed put for all of our testers. Good for lounging about or even working out.

Other things to know: Formerly known as the Core Legging. Sizing conversions don’t follow standard conventions—please refer to on-page chart to ensure you get the correct size. Use code WIRECUTTER (for new customers only). On sale in all sizes, colors, and styles. Limit one per customer.

Read our review of the best leggings .

Crocs Dylan Clog — Gift Pick Amazon deal price: $40 ; street price: $55

What we like: A more sophisticated pair of Crocs we recommend in several of our gift guides. Belies the brand's ugly reputation. Textured to look like full-grain leather. Clean profile with a notably unperforated toe box.

Other things to know: Easy to wash thanks to proprietary resin construction. On sale in select colors in women's and men's sizes.

Read our review of the best gifts for boyfriends (that are great for anyone) .

Tocess Big Claw Clips — Our Pick Deal price: $7 ; street price: $10

What we like: Our pick that’s great for wrangling curly and unruly hair. Stays put even during sleep. Extremely durable and sturdy.

Other things to know: Includes eight clips in multiple colors and two styles. Clips are about 4 inches long and open to 3.54 inches. Made from soft matte plastic.

Read our review of our favorite hair ties, scrunchies, bows, and clips .

Bellroy Tokyo Tote Second Edition — Our Pick Amazon deal price: $89 ; street price: $129

What we like: Our pick for a durable, water-repellent polyester laptop tote bag. Tough yet polished. Transitions perfectly from the coffee shop to the conference room. Thoughtfully designed, with features like internal popout bottle pockets and leakproof zippers.

Other things to know: Fabric shell is abrasive and may make some sweaters and blouses pill. The weave also attracts pet hair like a magnet. Available in black, bronze, and ranger green. Lowest price we've seen so far.

Read our review of the best laptop tote bags .

Bonobos Soft Everyday Tee (add two) — Our Pick Deal price: $50 when you add two to cart ; street price: $70

What we like: Our boxier, more relaxed white T-shirt pick. Extremely soft with some stretch and sturdily constructed. Especially loved by our plus-size testers for quality, fit, and comfort. 100% cotton.

Other things to know: Generous fit may not work for people with smaller frames. Available in a variety of colors and sizes. Choose between crew neck or V-neck and slim or standard cut. Add two to your cart to get the deal price.

Read our review of the best men’s white T-shirts .

What we like: A casual leather boot loved by Wirecutter staff and many others around the world. Pull-on, ankle-high, with an elastic panel. Comfortable, durable rubber sole. Uppers made of extra-thick leather. Ergonomically engineered to reduce fatigue. They can last for years with daily wear.

Etsfmoa Unisex Beanie with Light — Gift Pick Deal price: $13 ; street price: $15

What we like: A combination beanie and headlamp recommended in multiple Wirecutter gift guides. A bright, rechargeable light embedded in a soft, warm hat. Light charges in about two hours via USB port and has three brightness settings. Beanie comes in 24 different colors and patterns.

Other things to know: Great for walking the dog after dark or staying hands-free during house projects (also makes a good Father’s Day gift). The black and gray hats, the typical colors we see on sale, are both down to $13.

Read our review of the best gifts under $25 .

Idegg No Show Socks (Unisex, Six Pairs) — Our Pick Deal price: $12 ; street price: $15

What we like: Our thin and inexpensive no-show socks pick. Made from a lightweight and breathable cotton blend. Terrific value, especially when on sale. Great for wearing with snug-fitting shoes. Won’t slip or bunch.

Other things to know: Thin material doesn’t provide much padding or support. Not as soft and smooth as our other no-show sock picks. Deal is for a medium six-pack combination of black, gray, and whites (add $1 for large).

Read our review of the best no-show socks .

Apotheke Charcoal Candle — Our Pick Bloomingdale's deal price: $33 ; street price: $44

What we like: Our elegant, monochromatic pick for a warm and woodsy scented candle. Notes of charred sandalwood and cedar after a heavy rain. Fragrant but not heavy or overpowering. Sleek matte-black vessel is as stylish as it is adept at hiding soot streaks, fingerprints, and other smudges.

Other things to know: About 70-hour burn time. We wish it came with a lid or dust cover. Jar is reusable, but the company name is printed on the glass, so it’s impossible to remove. Price reflects in-cart. We've seen better deals for the 3-wick size, but this is a solid deal for this size.

Read our review of our favorite scented candles .

Dyson Supersonic Hair Dryer (Refurbished) — Upgrade Pick Walmart deal price: $220 ; street price: $300

What we like: Our longtime upgrade hair dryer pick. Unique design makes for an extraordinarily pleasant user experience. No vibration whatsoever. Simple-to-switch magnetic attachments make styling a breeze. Consistently our favorite hair dryer to use since we first tested it in 2016.

Other things to know: Pricey, and doesn’t make your hair look any different than cheaper options. Available in the select finishes. Manufacturer refurbished. One-year Dyson warranty and 30-day returns.

Read our review of the best hair dryer .

Threshold White Waffle Weave Shower Curtain — Our Pick Target deal price: $20 ; street price: $25

What we like: Our longtime pick for the best classic waffle-weave shower curtain. Simple, timeless, and durable. Easy to clean. Neutral design will complement just about any bathroom.

Other things to know: Available in white or gray. Select store pickup or make a combined order of $35 or more to avoid shipping fees. RedCard holders get free shipping and save an extra 5%.

Read our review of the best shower curtains .

GoYouth 2 in 1 Under Desk Electric Treadmill — Also Great Amazon deal price: $240 ; street price: $340

What we like: Our better-warranty under-desk treadmill pick. Easy to set up. Offers a smooth ride, a deck screen with Bluetooth speaker, and a belt size mirroring that of our top pick. Comes with a one-year warranty, which is substantially better than tour top pick's 90-day warranty.

Other things to know: Walking pad tops out at 3.7 mph. Can only support up to 220 pounds. In our testing, its belt started to fray after just a few weeks of use—damage that isn’t covered by the warranty. The red and blue colors are down to $240 with the clipped on-page coupon.

Read our review of the best under-desk treadmills .

Glocusent LED Neck Reading Light — Top Pick Amazon deal price: $17 ; street price: $22

What we like: Our wearable reading light pick is bright and easy to use, with adjustable arms that angle the light at the page just how we wanted. It never felt heavy or uncomfortable on our necks during testing.

Other things to know: Fewer brightness and temperature settings than our clip-on pick, but removes the need to adjust a traditional clip-on reading light. Deal available with clipped on-page coupon for the gray and purple colors.

Read our review of the best reading light .

Lutron Caséta Wireless In-Wall Smart Dimmer Switch (2-Count Kit) — Another Good Option Amazon deal price: $136 ; street price: $170

What we like: A good smart light dimmer switch if you don’t have great Wi-Fi. Easy-to-use keypad for dimming and powering lights manually. Easy to install. Works reliably with many smart-home devices. A pick when we started this guide, and we will continue to sing its praises.

Other things to know: Includes two switches, required Lutron Caséta Smart Bridge, and two wireless remotes. Uses ClearConnect wireless. Neutral wire required (which may be an issue in homes with old wiring).

Read our review of the best in-wall smart light switch and dimmer .

Sonos Move Speaker (First Gen) — Our Pick Costco deal price: $280 ; street price: $400

What we like: Our pick for a portable smart speaker for your outdoor space. High-quality and wireless. Sounds good. All the benefits of the Sonos system. Supports Airplay 2, Amazon Alexa, and Google Assistant. IP56-rated water resistance. Solid 10-hour battery life.

Other things to know: Audio is notably directional, with a dead spot directly behind it. The charging base is not waterproof. No stereo separation. Sonos released the second generation model last year. Available in black for Costco members.

Read our review of the best smart devices for making the most of your backyard and garden .

Akron Street Mysa Bed (Queen) — Our Pick Akron Street deal price: $1,166 ; street price: $1,295

What we like: Our pick for a no-frills, all-oak modern bed. Supremely simple, clean aesthetic with a low profile. Solid white oak construction. Supported by 15 acacia pine slats. Easy-to-assemble. Built to last. Works especially well with tall mattresses and small bedrooms.

Other things to know: Has 11.5-inch height, with an under-bed clearance of 6.8 inches. No warranty. Price reflects in-cart or use code TOTHETRADE. Standard shipping is free.

Read our review of the best modern bed frames to dress up your bedroom .

Homeasy Fabric Shaver — Our Pick Amazon deal price: $22 ; street price: $25

What we like: Our favorite electric fabric shaver. Features six sharp blades, a wide head, and intuitive controls. Very effective at getting rid of fuzz during our tests. Quiet and comfortable to hold. USB-rechargeable. Other thing to know: Three to six hour battery life on a full charge. Includes two replacement blades. About $2 higher than the lowest sale price we've seen, but still a good value.

Read our review of the best laundry aides to help your clothes look better and last longer .

Winix 5500-2 Air Purifier — Also Great Deal price: $128 ; street price: $150

What we like: An exceptional air purifier with a brutalist (or, if you prefer, minimalist) design. Venerable model with years of proven reliability. Performs similarly to the top-pick Coway Mighty and usually costs less up front.

Other things to know: No display shutoff except in lowest-purification sleep mode. Slightly elevated electrical use and larger visual footprint compared with our top pick.

Read our review of the best air purifier .

Revival Rugs - 25% Off Jute Area Rugs — Our Pick Deal price: $219 ; street price: $290

What we like: Our pick for a natural-fiber rug that comes in several colors. Flexible and finely woven, giving it a more delicate, flat appearance. Feels soft underfoot and barely sheds. Easy to vacuum and lightweight enough to shake out outside.

Other things to know: Best for dining rooms, kitchens, hallways, or layering in living rooms or bedrooms. Spot-clean only, as jute is very susceptible to water and humidity. Use code WCJUTE25 to save 25% on all jute rugs. Deal price is for the 5-by-8-foot size, but pricing varies depending on total cost; no minimum spend.

Read our review of the best area rugs .

Read our review of the best small kitchen ideas to create more space .

Waterpik Aquarius Water Flosser — Runner-Up Deal price: $58 ; street price: $80

What we like: Our runner-up pick for the best water flosser is just as effective as our top pick and comes with a similar three-year warranty. Easy to use and clean. Ten pressure settings, including a “massage” setting that emits pulses of water.

Other things to know: This is a corded model and requires a power outlet during use. Takes up more counter space than our top pick. Recurring deal price; $10 more than the deal we saw during Cyber Week.

Read our review of the best water flossers .

Black+Decker Pet Hair Remover — Staff Favorite Walmart deal price: $10 ; street price: $16

What we like: A lint roller for pet hair recommended by the Wirecutter staff. Reusable and tape-free. Effectively catches stray fur on fabric surfaces. The brush is made of velvet and silicone that grips the fur and traps it in a bin behind the roller. Works great on bedding.

Other things to know: Roll it back and forth on your bedding, couch, or clothing to pick up hair, and press the button to empty it once the bin is full. Opt for store pickup to avoid shipping fees or add to a combined order over $35 for free shipping.

Read our review of the best pet hair removers .

PetKit Eversweet Solo 2 Water Fountain — Upcoming Pick Amazon deal price: $40 ; street price: $50

What we like: An upcoming pick in our guide to the best water fountains for cats and dogs. Only five main parts to keep track of. The easiest fountain to take apart and clean in testing. Wireless pump is nearly silent and has a convenient auto shut-off feature so it doesn’t burn out when the water level gets too low.

Other things to know: Also comes with a companion app, which lets you set up cleaning and refill reminders, but it has a limited feature set.

Read our review of the best water fountain for cats and dogs .

Potaroma Flopping Fish Toy — Gift Pick Deal price: $10 ; street price: $14

What we like: A rechargeable motorized fish toy recommended in our guide to the best gifts for cats (and the humans they tolerate). Built-in motor has a motion sensor; as soon as you touch it, the fish wiggles around. Comes with a little bag of catnip.

Other things to know: A padded fabric toy. Charges via included USB cable. Several fish patterns are on sale for $10.

Read our review of the best gifts for cats .

PetFusion Jumbo Cat Scratcher Lounge — Upgrade Pick Deal price: $68 ; street price: $80

What we like: Our pick for the best cat bed for multicat households, this doubles as a scratcher, too. Both the largest bed we tested and the nicest scratcher we found. Big enough to sleep four cats comfortably. You can flip it over and use the underside when the top side shows wear and tear, prolonging its lifespan.

Other things to know: Large, about 39 by 14 inches. Cardboard may be too densely packed for some cats to comfortably scratch.

Read our review of the best cat beds (according to our cats) .

Editor’s note: The photo at the top of this article may reflect previous deals that are no longer valid and have been removed. Check out our Deals page for more great discounts on Wirecutter’s expert-approved picks.

This article was edited by Janie Campbell and Nathan Burrow.

Meet your guide

Wirecutter Staff