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Anchor Selection Guide: How to Choose the Best Boat Anchor Type

There are a number of boat anchors available, constructed of different materials, and often with confusing names. This article will discuss the most popular types of boat anchors, how to choose the best anchor for your boat, the most common material types, and also give an overview of different naming conventions.

Quick Anchor Style Summary

Video: Choosing an Anchor Type

Our video below introduces many of the anchor types discussed here, although the article discusses a few more anchor types and provides some useful links.

Quick Summary Boat Anchor Recommendation

For most boaters , a Bruce or Delta is the best balance between price and performance. Both perform similarly and are similarly priced (Narrowly, the Bruce/Claw is our favorite of the three). If you've used a Danforth in the past , and you have had luck with it, choose a Danforth. If you've never used one before and if your setup allows it, choose a Bruce or Delta instead. If you're a blue-water cruiser , choose a CQR, or consider one of the new generation of anchors discussed below.

Boat Anchor Names: Trademarked Names and Generic Names

A special note is needed on the naming of anchors. Many anchors have a trademarked name, such as a Bruce or CQR, and a generic name like Claw or Plow. This is the same as how Xerox is a trademarked name for photocopier and how Aspirin is a trademarked name for pain killer. Trademarks effectively never expire whereas design patents expire after approximately 20-25 years. Therefore, manufacturers are free to clone an anchor design that has an expired patent but cannot use the trademarked name.

Bruce™ Claw Anchor

The Bruce, or Claw, remains one of the most popular anchors among recreational boaters in North America. This is our anchor of choice as well.

The Bruce was developed in the 70s by the Bruce Anchor Group. Once their patent expired in the early 2000s, they stopped production of this anchor but many imitations have come along since.

The Bruce is an excellent all-purpose anchor as it performs well in most sea bottoms including mud, sand, rock, and coral. It has a harder time penetrating harder surfaces, such as clay, and bottoms with heavy grass. The three-claw design sets more easily than other anchors. It also resets easily if it is ever broken loose. On the downside, the Bruce has a lower holding power per pound than other anchors, meaning you’ll usually need a larger anchor than say the Delta/Wing .

Pros: Performs well in most conditions. Sets easily. Cons: Awkward one piece design. Lower holding power per pound. Bottoms: Performs well in most bottoms; Struggles in hard bottoms such as clay, or heavy grass.

CQR™/Plow & Delta™/Wing Anchor

Both the CQR/Plow and the Delta/Wing are a plow style anchor. The most significant difference between these anchors is the fact that the CQR has a hinged design whereas the Delta is a one piece design.

The CQR is one of the oldest styles, dating back to the 30s and to this day, it remains one of the most popular anchors among blue water cruisers. Despite this, it has relatively low holding power and it consistently struggles in independent tests. It’s also rare to find a CQR under 25 lbs lending itself to the saying “There’s no such thing as a small CQR”. Despite these shortcomings, the hinged design makes it more responsive to wind and tide changes as compared to other anchors.

The Delta is arguably the most popular anchor on boats today, and is the standard anchor of choice used by most boat manufacturers. It has a good holding power per pound (about 50% more than the Bruce).

Both the Delta and the CQR perform well in most bottoms, struggling the most in rock.

Pros: Performs well in most conditions. Fits most bow rollers. Cons: Hinged design can make stowage awkward. "No such thing as a small CQR/Plow anchor". Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; struggles in rock.

Danforth™/Fluke Anchor

The Danforth , or Fluke anchor, remains a very popular anchor choice. The Fortress is also a popular Fluke style anchor, different from the Danforth in that it comes apart and it constructed of light-weight, high-strength, aluminum.

The Fluke performs well in mud and sand, potentially the best of any anchor style. The downside is that outside of these bottoms, it is not a good performer. Therefore, it is a mud/sand only anchor, which fortunately is what most bottoms are comprised of.

Whether or not it is used as a primary anchor, a Fluke anchor makes an excellent choice as a secondary or stern anchor.

Pros: Performs well in mud and sand. Stows easily on most bow rollers. Cons: Does not perform well outside of mud/sand. Bottoms : Top performer in mud/sand. Performs poorly in other bottoms.

Spade Anchors

There are several anchors on the market today that feature a sharp fluke and a roll bar. These include the Rocna and Manson Supreme.

Each of these anchors are essentially a variation on a plow style anchor. If you look at the plow portion of these anchors, you can see they are a lot sharper than traditional plows like the Delta/Wing and CQR. Analogous to a knife through butter, these anchors can penetrate the sea bottom a lot easier and deeper than the other anchor styles, hence the name for these anchors: "spade". The roll bar helps orient the anchor upright when setting.

These anchors have performed extremely well in third party tests . The biggest downside to these anchors is that because they are still patented, they can be very expensive. The roll bar along with the elongated fluke can also make storing these anchors on bow rollers difficult.

Pros: Very high holding power for many models. Cons: Difficult to stow on a bow roller. Expense. Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; less effective in rock

Grapnel and Other Small Craft Anchors

A Grapnel anchor is generally used for small boats such as Kayaks, Dinghies, Canoes, etc. It’s also popular with fishermen.They fold up very compactly and are easy to stow. A Grapnel’s holding power comes from hooking onto another object, such as a rock. When it does hook, it can create immense holding power, which can also make retrieving the anchor difficult.

Pros: Great for use as a lunch hook. Folds to allow for compact storage. Cons: Not appropriate for non-temporary anchorage. Bottoms: Rock or other situations when it can hook onto an object.

Mushroom Anchors

Large Mushroom anchors are often used for permanent mooring buoys. As the silt from the sea-bottom builds up over these anchors, it can result in extreme holding power, up to 10 times the holding power of its actual weight. As a mooring buoy, the mushroom anchor is an excellent choice, however, it is not as useful in some temporary anchoring situations. An exception is that smaller versions of these anchors are good for use in small boats for anchoring while fishing or for a lunch stop over silty bottoms where the mushroom can penetrate.

Pros: If large, great for permanent mooring buoys. If small, good for use while fishing or for a lunch stop. Cons: If large, not appropriate for non-permanent moorings. If small, only good in soft bottoms. Bottoms: Silt, soft mud, unpacked sand.

Boat Anchor Material Types

Boat anchors come in a variety of types, the most popular being mild steel, high-tensile steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.

Most of the traditional steel anchors we are accustomed to seeing are likely either mild or high tensile steel. Mild steel and high-tensile steel are nearly indistinguishable from one another appearance wise. However, high tensile steel is 2-3 times stronger than mild steel. This isn't to say that a high-tensile steel boat anchor has 2-3 times the holding power of its mild steel counterpart, but it will nonetheless be stronger.

Both mild steel and high-tensile steel anchors are not corrosion resistant, and therefore need to be galvanized to prevent rust and other corrosion. All steel anchors (except stainless) should be galvanized. Galvanization has a tendency to wear down over time, but an anchor (as well as nearly any other steel product) can be re-galvanized.

Stainless steel is identical to galvanized steel in terms of holding power but differs significantly in appearance. The shiny gloss is essentially the only difference between stainless steel and galvanized steel. Stainless steel is also very corrosion resistant and will resist most rusting over time. You will often see manufacturers describing stainless steel as either 316 Stainless or 304 Stainless. 316 is a different chemical composition than 304 and is more corrosion resistant. It also more expensive.

There are some anchors constructed from high strength aluminum, such as the Fortress. These anchors are extremely lightweight while still offering high holding power. These anchors rely on bottom penetration for most of the holding power, and therefore, if they are not set, they provide little to no holding power.

Published May 08, 2018

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Digital edition

Best anchors: 8 new generation designs suitable for every boat

Rupert Holmes
January 27, 2022

Most boats would benefit from upgrading to a better anchor for a host of reasons. We take a look at 8 of the best anchors on the market right now

Securing your anchor do it is ready to drop could get you out of a tight spot when you can't sail out of trouble. Credit: Theo Stocker

Good ground tackle and understanding how to anchor properly opens up the option to stay overnight in stunning bays and creeks, away from costly marinas and expensive harbour moorings. And picking the best anchors is essential in terms of safety too as you may well need it to hold you off a lee shore in the event of engine failure.

However, unless your boat’s anchor has been upgraded recently, the chances are it’s of a type that will not provide good holding power.

What to look for in a good anchor?

Much has changed in the world of anchors in the past 20 years, which led to classification societies such as Lloyds adding a new Super High Holding Power certification category for these anchors in 2008.

Most of the best anchors exceed the requirements for this by a wide margin.

These advances in anchor technology and different types of anchor mean older boats won’t have been equipped with what we would now consider to be decent ground tackle when they were new.

This is also true for most vessels built in the last 20 years. Until recently the latest generation of anchors was relatively expensive, so were generally only fitted as standard equipment to very high quality yachts.

The various brands of today’s very high holding power anchors share a number of key characteristics that make them more effective than older products.

The best anchors tend to have a concave profile akin to the shape of a shovel. This digs more firmly into the seabed without tending to act like a plough when under load.

Another important aspect to look for in a good anchor is the tip weight, as loading as much weight here as possible is a massive help in enabling it to penetrate weed and other difficult types of sea bed.

Typical new generation anchors have 35-45 per cent of their weight on the tip. Some also have roll bars that prevent the anchor landing on the seabed upside down.

Whatever anchor you choose, beware of cheap unbranded copies. These rarely have the precise geometry needed to maximise holding power. Some are also badly cast and therefore weaker than the original design.

At a glance:

Note: we may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. this doesn’t affect our editorial independence., 7 of the best anchors on the market right now.

Rocna Galvanised Anchor

This was one of the first of the new generation of ultra high holding power anchors and quickly gained much acclaim, despite an initially high price tag.

The Rocna is well engineered and has an excellent reputation for digging in quickly and easily. Once set it then offers excellent holding.

A roll bar is incorporated, but a downside of Rocnas is they do not stow neatly on all bow rollers.

To solve this problem the company developed the Vulcan series, which doesn’t have the roll bar and is shaped to fit on a wider range of bow rollers.

Reasons to buy:

– Good quality anchor

– Excellent holding power

Reasons to avoid:

– It is expensive

– Do not stow neatly on all bow rollers

Specifications:

– Size: 96 x 41 x 39 cm

– Weight: Available in 10kg, 20kg and 25kg

Buy it now on Amazon.co.uk

Buy it now on Amazon.com

Buy a Rocna Vulcan on Amazon.co.uk

Buy a stainless steel Rocna Vulcan on Amazon.com

Lewmar Stainless Steel Epsilon Anchor

Read PBO’s Lewmar Epsilon review

The latest model from this UK company offers the benefits of a new generation anchor at very attractive prices.

It has a winged design with concave flukes to maximise holding power in a variety of sea beds, a ballasted tip that enables it to dig in readily and is self righting, even though the roll bar is optional.

The Epsilon is intended as a direct replacement for Lewmar’s long-running plough style Delta anchor.

Although the Epsilon’s shank is proportionately shorter, the two models share the same basic shank geometry. Therefore, if a Delta fits your bow roller then an Epsilon will also fit.

– Easy to handle

– Designed to fit any bow roller that works for the Delta

– It has a shorter shank

– Size: ‎55 x 35 x 30cm

– Material: stainless steel

– Weight: ‎6.1kg

Buy it now on eBay

Buy it now from Amazon

Buy it now from West Marine (US only)

Fortress FX-11

This aluminium anchor is an older design from more than 30 years ago, but still has a number of advantages that makes it an excellent choice in some circumstances.

It’s biggest feature is very light weight relative to the holding power the anchor provides. This makes it a perfect option for performance catamarans and trimarans, as well as for smaller fast motor boats.

The key downside, however, is that the holding power is achieved through the surface area of the flukes, not the weight of the anchor. This means it’s physically larger than other anchors, although it comes apart like the Spade for easier stowage.

A neat feature is that the angle of the flukes can be varied to suit different types of sea bed.

– Perfect for catamarans and trimarans

– Easy to manoeuvre thanks to its light weight design

– Flukes can be adapted to the type of sea bed

– Larger than other anchors

– Holding power is from the surface area of flukes

– Size: ‎73.66 x 15.24 x 7.62 cm

– Material: aluminium

– Weight: 8 pounds

Spade Anchor S series

This is another popular modern anchor, but with an important difference to other brands.

The hollow shank can be removed to make stowage easier. This makes it an excellent choice for racing yachts and other vessels that don’t permanently keep the anchor on the bow, or for occasional use as a kedge.

There’s no roll bar, but the tip loading is close to 50 per cent of the total weight, which helps it to dig in and set quickly.

The main drawback of the Spade is one of cost – it’s more complex to manufacture than other designs, so the price is relatively high.

– Good option for racing yachts

– The hollow shank can be removed

– No roll bar

– Expensive

– Size: S40 to S160

– Material: galvanised steel

– Weight: 6kg to 55kg

Buy it now from Jimmy Green Marine

Knox Anchors

Professor John Knox spent a great deal of his spare time researching the loads on anchors and rodes.

His work in this area over a period of 20 years contributed a huge amount to our understanding of anchoring and precise causes of anchors dragging or breaking out.

It also led him to develop his own design of anchor that would offer significantly better performance compared to the popular models at the time. It was therefore one of the first of the new generation designs.

The Knox anchor has a patented divided fluke with sharpened edges set at an angle that enables it to dig into the seabed quickly and efficiently.

It’s fitted with a roll bar and, while the shank is made of the highest tensile strength steel available.

– Made of the highest tensile strength steel

– Patented divided fluke with sharpened edges set at an angle to dig into the seabed

– We can’t find any

– Material: highest tensile strength steel

– Weight: 6.5kg to 27kg

Buy it now from Knox Anchors

Stirrup Anchor Bugel Anchor

The Bügel was one of the very first new generation anchors and quickly set a new benchmark in the industry.

It has a flat fluke with lower surface area than later designs, plus a roll bar and a shank made of thick plate.

This makes it a relatively inexpensive anchor, which is undoubtedly a key factor behind its enormous popularity, even though later products offer higher holding power.

– Good value anchor

– It features a rollbar and shank

– Other products offer higher holding power

– Size: 66 x 28cm to 86 x 38cm

– Material: Hot-galvanised steel

– Weight: 9 to 16kg

Buy it now from compass24.com

Manson Supreme Anchor

This was the first anchor to receive Lloyds Super High Holding Power certification when the classification was introduced in 2008.

It’s a fabricated design that uses two layers of steel for the fluke and relies on a roll bar, rather than a ballasted tip, to self-right.

The upper slot in the shank is intended for use in rocky sea beds, or anchoring in coral . The idea is that if the anchor becomes stuck the rode can be slid to the shank end of the slot, enabling the anchor to be retrieved without using a tripping line.

The shape of the anchor is designed to fit all conventional anchor rollers.

– Good for use on a rocky sea bed

– The anchor fits all conventional anchor rollers

– Other products offer innovative designs compared to this classical anchor design

– Size: 18′ – 30′ to 40′ – 45′

– Weight: 7kg to 20kg

Buy it now from Marinesuperstore.com

Ultra Marine Ultra Anchor

Read Yachting Monthly’s Ultra Anchor review

Our sister title Yachting Monthly recently tested the new 12kg Ultra Anchor from Ultra Marine over several nights at anchor.

Editor Theo Stocker said: “I was impressed with how quickly the anchor set.

“While our normal 10kg Bruce anchor can struggle in soft sand and weed, the Ultra anchor buried itself almost completely and refused to drag.

“The Ultra’s performance amply delivers on its maker’s promises as is comparable to other stainless anchors,” he concluded.

– Handmade and hand-polished stainless steel

– Ready to dig in

– Not the cheapest option on this list

– Weight: 5kg to 8kg

7 Best Sailboat Anchors

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

As long as it's the right one, your sailboat anchor is the best insurance you'll ever buy.

The right sailboat anchor will depend on the type and size of your sailboat, your planned area of sailing, and the weather conditions that you expect to encounter. So there are no shortcuts but to choose the best sailboat anchors based on these factors.

Anchoring, at its core, is all about securely fastening your sailboat using the best sailboat anchor so that it doesn't float away when the winds or tides start shifting.

And whether you're planning for a day's fishing trip to your nearest lake or going for an offshore voyage, an anchor is unquestionably essential in ensuring the safety of both you and your sailboat.

A good anchor not only gives you the much-needed peace of mind but gives you the ability to securely anchor your sailboat on a nice bay, grab a quick lunch, or explore the nearby reefs.

More importantly, you'll appreciate the importance of choosing the best sailboat anchor for your boat when you have to ride out a storm.

There are lots of excellent sailboat anchors that are a great fit for your boat. The most important is to understand what makes a high-quality anchor so that you can make an informed choice when buying the best sailboat anchor for you and your vessel. This will depend on things like the size and type of your sailboat, where you want to sail to, and the projected weather and the type of bottom of where you'll be sailing at.

Needless to say, there are a lot of sailboat anchors out there that it can be very confusing. In this article, we'll discuss how to choose the best sailboat anchor for your boat. More importantly, we've done thorough research and review the best sailboat anchors just to make the process of choosing the best sailboat anchor for you as easy as possible.

Table of contents

How to Choose the Best Sailboat Anchor

Choosing the best sailboat anchor on various things such as the type and size of your boat, the type of bottom where you're planning to anchor your boat on, the weather conditions, and many more. For example, anchoring a 24-feet sailing boat on a muddy bottom will not be the same when using the same anchor when anchoring a 49-feet sailboat on a rocky bottom. More importantly, choosing the best sailboat is all about finding the right balance in terms of the size of your boat, the type of the bottom where you're sailing at, the climate conditions, and the amount of time that you're planning to be anchored.

Here is what you need to consider.

The Size of Your Boat

The size of your boat will determine the type of anchor that's appropriate based on its weight and resistance. For example, a claw anchor can be great for boats measuring between 16 feet and 50 feet. In essence, having a bigger boat will require an anchor that is bigger and has more holding power. On the other hand, a smaller anchor with less holding power will be ideal for a smaller boat.

Your Anchoring Time

The holding power of your anchor can be affected by the amount of time you are planning to anchor your boat. If you're planning to anchor your boat for longer periods, it would make a lot of sense to have an anchor with high holding power. Differently, you can go with an anchor with less holding power if you're planning to anchor your boat for a few hours.

The Bottom Type

The shape and sharpness of an anchor will determine how good an anchor can hold your boat in different types of bottoms. For example, claw anchors can struggle in rocks and corals but work perfectly in sand and mud. On the contrary, grapnel types of anchors can work great in rocks but don't work in sand or mud. It all depends on the bottom type of the area you're planning to sail at.

Anchor Material

The type of material used in manufacturing the anchor is of great importance in terms of its functionality, reliability, and durability. Most anchors are galvanized to prevent them from rust and also for a better price. However, stainless steel anchors offer better anchors in terms of quality and aesthetics.

Without further ado, let's jump straight in.

1. Lewmar Galvanized Delta Sailing Anchor

(Best for Larger Boats)

Although several modern types of sailboat anchors have taken the anchor industry by storm, some traditional anchor designs still hold their ground today and the Lewmar Galvanized Delta Sailing Anchor is one of them. It's designed with a single, sharply pointed wedge fluke that has a similar shape to a plow and really gets into the ground. It digs down and holds so secure for larger boats measuring over 21 feet.

This is a superb sailboat anchor that performs exceptionally well on most bottom types save for rocks. You'll love the fact that it holds extremely well in softer bottoms such as sand and mud. This anchor is made from high-grade manganese steel and is galvanized with a protective layer of zinc to prevent it from rusting. It's also more light than most anchors so stowing and transportation shouldn't be a problem.

Having been a hallmark anchor for many years, this anchor guarantees reliability and will hold excellently even in stormy conditions. Launching it is also easy thanks to its ballasted tip and streamlined shank and will set the first time thanks to its self-righting design.

‍ Perfect for larger boats
Very durable
Approved by several National Lifeboat Associations
Comes with a perpetual guarantee against breakage
Easy to launch
Very secure
‍ Quite expensive
Requires tripping line to release it from the seabed
Not great for rocky bottom

2. Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor

(Best for Changing Weather Conditions)

As the best-selling sailboat anchor currently available in the market, it's easy to see why the Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor is the most highly rated anchor by multiple independent reviewers. Built for strength and versatility, this anchor works great with a wide range of boats, which is a very unique feature. Coming in sizes ranging from 9 to 606 pounds, this anchor is so versatile and gives you the option of choosing the right size for your sailboat.

This remains the most dependable anchor in the market, especially in the roughest of conditions. It holds all types of the seabed so fast and has a roll bar that's crucial in ensuring that your boat's weight is not only distributed appropriately but the boat sets at the right angle. Its Vulcan design and sharp tip allow it to snug fit on the bow and to get right into the seabed respectively.

This is an anchor that draws the best features from traditional sailboat anchors such as spade and bagel anchors to become one of the best modern sailboat anchors out there.

‍ Perfect for stormy conditions
Great for all types of seabed
Very versatile and available in a wide range of sizes
Perfect for all types of boats
It has an easy storage design
It's designed by a well-known brand
‍ Very expensive
‍ Its shank is only perfect for bigger flukes

3. Manson Galvanized Supreme Sailing Anchor

(The Fastest Setting and Highest Holding Anchor)

If you're looking to purchase the best sailboat anchor from a well-established brand, look no further than the Manson Galvanized Supreme Sailing Anchor. This anchor has been in the market for the better part of the last two decades and still holds its ground as one of the best sailboat anchors out there. The fact that it is perfect for all types of seabed makes it a great option for sailors who are on a budget.

This sailboat anchor has an indisputable reputation all over the world as the fastest setting and highest holding anchor. This is because it's uniquely designed for extreme holding conditions thanks to its standard bow rollers and a dual operation shank that's designed with the utmost versatility in mind. Whether you're looking to anchor in mud, sand, or rocky areas, this anchor will never disappoint you.

‍ It has an extremely high holding power
It's the fastest setting anchor in the market
It's perfect for all types of seabed including rocky areas
Its safety is guaranteed as it has passed multiple tests
It's very durable
Designed for extreme weather conditions
‍ It's heavy, which can bring difficulties in stowing and transportation
Very expensive

4. Danforth S-600 Standard Sailing Anchor

(Best for Smaller Boats)

At this point, you shouldn't have any doubt that some of the more traditional types of anchors still have a place in the anchor industry today. The Danforth S-600 Standard Sailing Anchor is a traditional fluke anchor that's extremely perfect for smaller boats but can also be used as a secondary anchor for larger boats. Having been developed in the US back in the 1940s, this type of anchor is similar to the modern CQR anchor and doesn't compromise on quality and reliability even in rough weather conditions.

It's lighter than most anchors, so stowing or transporting it shouldn't be a problem. In terms of its holding power, it has an excellent power-to-weight ratio and can hold quite fast in sand and mud. The fact that it is a fluke type of anchor makes it not perfect for coral, rock, or gravel bottoms.

‍ Perfect for smaller boats
It's good for sandy and muddy substrates
Lightweight and compact
Has a holding power of about 600 pounds
Constructed with high-strength galvanized steel
Quite affordable
‍ Not ideal for rock, coral, or gravel substrates
Can only be used as a secondary anchor on larger boats (over 27 feet)
It has moving parts

5. Lewmar Claw Anchor

(Best for All Types of Seabed)

If you're looking for the best sailboat anchor that will serve you perfectly in all types of substrates, the Lewmar Claw Anchor can be an ideal choice. Previously known as the Bruce or Claw type anchor, this anchor has a three-pronged design that enables it to easily set in any bottom. It doesn't matter whether you want to anchor in an area with mud, sand, rock, coral, gravel, or grassy bottom, this anchor will hold its ground.

It can be a great option if you're on a tight budget and want to buy an anchor that doesn't have a complete design while going about its duty quietly. It's so versatile thanks to the fact that it's available in sizes ranging from 4.4 pounds to 44 pounds. What's more; it's made from high-grade steel and it's very durable. If anything, it draws inspiration from the anchors used in securing oil rigs in the North Sea.

‍ Excellent for all types of substrates
It's very versatile
It's durable
It's very affordable
‍ Its odd shape makes it difficult to stow

6. Mantus Galvanized Sailing Anchor

(Perfect for Dense Grassy Bottoms)

The level of functionality that the Mantus Galvanized Sailing Anchor brings to the table is unmatched. This is an anchor that offers unparalleled holding power as it can dig a lot deeper than most anchors out there.

It's strongly built but can come apart to make it a lot easy to store and transport. Its sharp-headed nose gives it maximum penetration power, though it may not hold quite well in low viscosity sea beds. This anchor is highly dependable yet very expensive so it might not be an ideal option if you're on a budget. So if functionality is your top priority when going to an area with dense grassy bottoms, it can be your ideal option.

‍ Very functional and dependable
Perfect for dense grassy bottoms
Easy to store and transport
Made from high-quality steel
Comes with a lifetime warranty against breakage
‍ It has moving parts
It's very expensive

7. Norestar Stainless Steel Delta/Wing Boat Sailing Anchor

(Highest Quality Anchor)

One of the most important things when in the market for a good sailboat anchor is quality. Well, the Norestar doesn't disappoint on this front as it's manufactured using the highest quality stainless steel. This stainless steel is strengthened with micron thick PVD coating that gives it a highly urbane appearance.

Its design is also one of the most popular anchoring systems in the maritime industry today. This is because it offers impeccable security and gives you the peace of mind knowing that your boat is safe at all times.

‍ It is self-launching
Made from the highest quality stainless steel
It sets easily
Perfect for most bottoms
It's lightweight and has no moving parts
‍ Not ideal for bottoms with hard sand
Quite expensive

There you have it; these are the best sailboat anchors in the market. An anchor is one of the most crucial parts of safe sailing. Whether you're looking to moor at the harbor or to explore far-reaching areas in the water, a good anchor is your number safety and insurance while on the water.

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

by this author

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Top Anchors Tested

By John Page Williams
Updated: August 10, 2015

Editor’s Note : Many factors will affect anchor selection. Some are boat related, including an anchor’s ability to stow or be deployed. Others relate to location and bottom composition, such as the anchor’s ability to set and to reset itself during a tide swing. Furthermore, in bottoms of varying composition, the performance of different anchors will vary. Performance will also vary if the components of the anchor rodes are different. This test compares anchor performance in the same location, with the same rode, and in a mud-clay bottom only.

Will the anchor hold? Good question. Your life might depend on your answer. In a constant quest to evaluate anchor-holding power for its own products and the competition, Fortress Marine Anchors set up a rigorous test of 12 comparably sized, premium-brand anchors in typical mud/clay bottom of the Chesapeake Bay at Solomons, Maryland. Brian Sheehan and several other Fortress executives invited a dozen boating journalists to participate and “keep the testing honest” by carefully analyzing the methods and results over four days. Chuck Hawley, former vice president of product testing at West Marine and a videographer, recorded comments on each test (available at fortressanchors.com ). Here’s what we found.

Methodology Testing order of the anchors was random. They ranged in weight from 21 to 46 pounds and were designed for cruising boats in the 35- to 40-foot length overall range. Our platform was the 81-foot research vessel Rachel Carson , owned and operated by the University of Maryland’s Chesapeake Biological Laboratory at Solomons. With its twin 1,205 hp MTU diesels driving Hamilton water jets, 30 hp bow thruster, research-grade GPS (accurate within 0.0003 degrees) position-keeping system and 20 hp hydraulic winch with stainless cable, the big boat proved excellent for anchor testing.

The Fortress staffers and Rachel Carson ‘s skipper, Capt. Mike Hulme, picked out a broad testing area of mud/clay bottom in 26 feet of water. At a specific point ( a datum ), the deck crew placed each anchor overboard, and Hulme set off along a specific compass course ( azimuth ). When the scope reached 5:1, he proceeded another 100 feet and engaged position-keeping, jets and thruster keeping the vessel on station. Then first mate Rob Nilsen wound the anchor back in for 10 minutes (100 feet) with the winch. A tensiometer set into the cable’s run measured the anchor’s resistance (holding power) in pounds, recording it continuously on several linked computers in the vessel’s lab room as the scope fell from 8.8:1 to 5:1. Then Hulme backed over the anchor, and the deck crew retrieved it.

HOW TO BUILD AN ANCHOR RODE

For each pull, we watched the tensiometer plot resistance over time as the winch plowed an anchor through the bottom. Then we crowded around to look at its condition and the bottom material left on it. Chuck Hawley and the videographer recorded a summary after each pull. We writers scribbled notes. Afterward, Hulme returned Rachel Carson precisely to the datum, taking a different azimuth for the next anchor, to keep from plowing the same piece of bottom again and again. During four days, the crew tested each anchor five times.

The test protocol called for discarding fouled anchors in making the final judgment. Fate illustrated the wisdom of this provision on the first pull of the Fortress FX-37, when it broke free on long scope because, as we learned when it got back to the deck, it had picked up an oyster shell thick enough to jam between the flukes and the shank. The next day, another anchor picked up nylon line and a waterlogged stick.

The Right Stuff So what do we take away from all of this research? You need the right anchoring gear and the know-how and experience to safely and securely anchor your boat. Check out these seven essentials.

1. There is no such thing as “set it and forget it” with anchors. As in baseball, where every pitch counts, each anchor set brings its own challenges.

2. Even with all of the data available, anchoring remains a blend of science and seamanship.

3. Always remember: “Any anchor can fail to set the first time on any given day.”

4. Pay close attention to the specific area of bottom where you plan to set your anchor. Learn to read the sonar signatures of mud, sand, shell and combinations of those materials. As a backup, “fly the lead pigeon,” dropping a lead weight with a sticky substance like wax on it to pick up a bottom sample.

5. Think about all of the conditions that could affect the area where you propose to anchor, including depth, shoreline, other boats, “dragging room” and predicted wind.

6. If you, your family and your boat are going to depend on your anchoring systems for everything from a carefree lunch and a good night’s sleep to survival in a major storm, learn all you can about anchoring. There’s a lot of information out there ranging from the Anchoring Information tab on the Fortress website to the classic Chapman Piloting & Seamanship (67th Edition, 2013, $30 to $40 from amazon.com).

7. Finally, go boating. Put in your time on the water; learn from both your experiences and your conversations with other skippers; integrate all of it and put it to work for your boat, your family and yourself.

Results The holding power curves for five pulls of each of the 12 anchors (including two for the Fortress FX-37, set at 32 and 45 degrees) are available for viewing at fortressanchors.com . You’ll note that Mike Hulme and the Fortress crew started at a new datum each day so that the anchors were worked through a fresh area of bottom.

It was impressive to see how much the results could vary from set to set with the same anchor in the same area. Every anchor failed to set initially at least once, and several broke free partway through because of either debris on the bottom or a change in the bottom’s composition.

During 54 pulls, the nine plow-type anchors held more than 1,000 pounds only twice. Their holding power peaked at scopes between 7:1 and 6:1. Several of the plow types showed reassuring consistency, helpful in a storm situation, where there is room to drag a little.

The highest holding power (more than 1,200 pounds) came from the fluke anchors, with the Fortress FX-37 set at 45 degrees (its soft-mud setting), peaking at 2,000 pounds. (At one point when it was in that range, the wake from a passing boat jostled Rachel Carson slightly, and the added force caused the breaker on the winch system to trip.) Note, though, that even that anchor delivered varying performance from pull to pull and within each pull.

TIPS FOR ANCHORING OVERNIGHT

We saw amazing variation in bottom consistency even in the relatively small area where we were working. I spent some time in Rachel Carson ‘s wheelhouse with Hulme, watching bottom signals on a Furuno FCV-585 sounder. The bottom hardness varied from firm clay to super soft, giving value to the protocol of averaging the results in judging each anchor’s performance.

Two Is Better Than One Always carry at least two anchors. Start with a main one whose rated holding power matches your boat’s length, beam and displacement. Add a lighter “lunch hook” for short stays and fishing. Having the lunch hook will also allow you to set both to hold a precise position, if necessary. Oh, and make sure you have a secure storage place aboard for each anchor before you buy it.

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Boat Anchor Selection Guide: Choose the Perfect Type & Size

When you buy a used boat, odds are it will come with an anchor, and with a new boat you'll usually get to choose an anchor for it. What if that old anchor you have on your new-to-you boat doesn't hold so well, or needs replacing? In any of those scenarios, you'll need to pick out a new anchor for your boat. There are more types of anchors that you dreamed of, and they're all different in how they perform in different anchoring conditions. And your anchor will need to be sized for your boat.

The type of anchor you choose depends on the predominant bottom types where you plan to sail, and what fits on your boat. Once you know the type, you get the perfect type and size of anchor from the length and weight of your boat using the manufacturers' recommendations.

Angle of attack provides holding power

The pulling force on an anchor is along the shank, and for an anchor to offer maximum holding power, it's crucial that the bulk of the load from the boat's pull is applied in this direction. If the pull is from the side, the anchor may break out. If the pull is from above the anchor, it definitely will.

Part of the role of the chain in your rode is to keep the rode flat on the bottom to make sure the loads from the boat are horizontal and along the direction of the shank.

Scope & chain provide angle and drag

Your anchor rode and how much scope you let out is as important to your choice of anchor to how well you hold. Chain has its own resistance to being dragged and adds extra holding, and as noted above, it also keeps the forces on the anchor from pulling it out.

The longer the scope, the better the angle of pull on the anchor. With a length of chain, the extra weight adds more holding the bottom, and a rope/chain rode gives extra shock absorption in the catenary of the rode.

You can learn more about how to select and install the right anchor rode by reading our detailed article here.

Orientation of anchors

Most modern anchors have a definite top and bottom, and will not set lying on their backs. These anchors flip and orient their blades down if they land the wrong way or break out. Many anchor designs dig in quickly with the anchor lying on its side, and may have roll bars or weights to keep them in a suitable setting orientation.

Some anchors, like grapnel anchors or the Bulwagga, had a radial symmetry and no true up or down. These don't need to reorient or right themselves. They will catch the bottom no matter how they lie, though not all the blades and hooks will help hold the anchor.

Good anchors will reset unnoticably

All anchors can break out and may get rolled as a boat swings at anchor and wind strength increases. An anchor's ability to reset is important. You don't want to drag long before your anchor sets again. With a good anchor, you won't even be aware it has broken out and reset, as it will happen quickly without your boat seeming to drag at all.

An anchor doesn't care at all about what kind of boat is on the other end of the rode, what it cares about is how much drag force is on the rode. A heavy boat in a light breeze may pull as hard on an anchor as a lighter boat in more wind. It's the force that counts, and you size your anchor by how much force you can expect to land on that anchor and rode.

Boat weight partially determines drag force

Your boat's weight is one of the two sources of drag force on your anchor. Heavier boats will pull more than light boats in the same condition. Many anchor vendors give tables of boat weight ranges which match to the best anchor size.

In wind, boat length is more important

Picture two boats with the same weight - a low-slung classic yacht with little freeboard , but a heavy full keel, and a more modern design with higher freeboard, less ballast, and about ten more feet of length. In windless conditions, they'll pull about the same against the anchor.

But in twenty knots of breeze, the longer boat with more freeboard will have a lot more pull. Here, the boat's length overrides the weight. A doubling of wind speed quadruples the load on the anchor, so this effect becomes more pronounced the higher the wind.

Anchors are made from three primary materials - galvanized steel , stainless steel , and aluminum .

Galvanized steel anchors are cheap

Galvanized anchors are the most common, as they are the least expensive, offer excellent weight, and are very durable and rugged. They can rust over time as the galvanization wears off, but provide the best cost to holding of all anchor construction material. You can re-galvanize an anchor at considerably less cost than replacing the anchor, if the original protection wears off.

Stainless steel anchors are expensive

Stainless steel anchors have similar strength to galvanized steel anchors combined with corrosion resistance. They look beautiful on the bow, but they are quite expensive at 3-5 times the cost of a similar galvanized anchor, and you'll want to pair them with a more expensive stainless chain. While they won't rust, they can get scratched and lose their shiny finish if you use them often. And there is a risk of crevice corrosion if stainless steel sits underwater too long.

Aluminum anchors don't rely on weight

Aluminum anchors are lightweight and strong, but may not have the holding power of heavier anchors of a similar size, and aluminum is not as strong as steel. They are popular with racers, and also for secondary anchors, because they are lighter and easier to handle. Aluminum anchors rely on bottom penetration to set, not weight.

The dozens of anchors available break down into a few general classes. Trying to organize all the choices by function helps you narrow the field to what may work best for you.

Claw anchor

Claw anchors, like the Bruce, have claw style blades to dig in and hold well for most conditions. They may struggle to dig in with a hard mud or clay bottom, but will reset well on other bottoms.

Plow anchor

Plow anchors are generally fixed, like the Delta, or have a hinge like the CQR. The fixed plows do well in everything but rocks, while the hinged CQR doesn't hold quite as well but responds better to the movement of the rode since there is a swivel.

Plow with Roll Bars

Modern designs like the Rocna and Spade incorporate a plow form on the blades, coupled with a roll bar. These have fantastic holding power and set easily. They don't fit as well on some older boats, and are more expensive.

Fluke anchor

The fluke anchors are great in mud and sand, but don't do as well with bottoms they can't penetrate or grass. The Danforth (and its clones) are popular with smaller boats, and the lightweight aluminum Fortress is a favorite with weight conscious ravers.

Fisherman's anchor

The traditional crossbar and hooks anchor is good for rocks. Some break down for storage, which makes them a popular choice for a storm anchor.

Grapnel anchor

Grapnels are fine anchors for dinghies, kayaks, PWCs and other small, light craft but don't do well with higher loads and larger boats.

Mushroom anchor

Small mushroom anchors can hold a small craft like a dinghy or kayak. Many permanent moorings are large mushroom anchors, where they can dig deep into the bottom. But they are not suitable for big boat use.

Other alternatives

This list isn't exhaustive. There is constant innovation in anchor technology, from the Bulwagga to various box anchors, which don't even look much like anchors as we think of them. All have their strengths and weaknesses, so research carefully and try to find someone with real-world experiences with them.

Remember, there is no "right" or perfect anchor, so look at a lot of options to see what fits your boating style.

The basic decisions you have to make about your anchor are the style, size, and material of your anchor. While we can't get into every type of anchor on the market and how it works for every boat, we can give you an overview of the decisions you must make.

What fits on your boat?

If you're adding a new anchor to an existing boat, you may have some natural limitations on what anchors you may choose.

With a bow roller sized for a plow or a nice Danforth bracket installed already, maybe those features limit your choices. You may switch between a CQR and a Delta with that anchor roller, but there's a good chance you can't fit a Rocna's roll bar up there without bending something. You could probably switch a Fortress out for a Danforth in that bracket, but you can not hang a plow from it.

Most anchor manufacturers give dimensional drawings of their products on their websites, so measure and even mock up something to see if it will go. On my boat, I shoved a Manson Supreme where a CQR went, but not without permanently bending a retaining pin. And I mocked the whole thing up in cardboard ahead of time to be sure.

Where will you anchor?

The range of where boat affects what to have in your bow locker. If you're a Chesapeake Bay sailor and you don't leave the bay, something that holds well in mud is a must and may be all you need. But a world cruiser needs something more effective across a range of bottom types.

Give careful thought to the places you’ll want to spend the night on your boat, especially the bottom types you'll find. In the end, you'll likely have more than one anchor, and you want to cover most of the holding types you'll encounter.

Choose your materials based on budget and style

This is a matter of budget and style, mostly. As a cruiser who spends almost every night at anchor, I can't see the sense of spending a fortune on a pretty anchor that spends most of its life hidden. But for some, adding that high gloss show to the bow of a Bristol condition yacht everyone can see most of the time, the aesthetic choice may make more sense.

When I raced, I had a Fortress because it met the requirements to have an anchor, but I ended up spending a couple of nights on it. It was easy to move around, but for vacations I still dragged the 35 lb. CQR out of the shed and put it in the bow locker.

Size your anchor based on boat length and weight

Sizing your anchor is most people's biggest worry. Remember, it's better to have too much anchor instead of not enough. You want to sleep soundly and leave your boat without worrying. If you're hauling your anchor up without a windlass, the extra pounds matter a lot more, but it's better to have extra.

It's not as hard as you think to size your anchor, because every single manufacturer publishes a guide to how to select the right product for your boat. Most of them have tables for boat length and boat weight, and we talked up above about how a boat's weight and windage affect anchor loads.

To size your anchor, follow these steps.

Search the "by length" table for the length of your boat, and note the recommended size.
Search for the weight of your boat, and note the recommended size.
The correct anchor size for your boat is the larger of those two recommendations.

If they give a single number in the table, choose the next number above yours. If they use ranges and your boat is on the edge of a weight or length range, there's no harm in moving to the next size band. Don't move down bands; you don't want to undersize.

For an example, look at this sizing table for Spade Anchors. We've going to pick an anchor for a boat which is 53' long and weighs about 54,000 lbs.

Source: Anchor sizing chart on Spade Anchor USA

You'll see a boat length of 53' puts us at 59ft. and a 55 pound galvanized anchor. But by vessel weight, for 54,000 lbs., the recommended weight is 99 pounds.

So the larger of the two is 99 lbs., so that is the proper weight for this boat.

Most boats should have more than one anchor, so you will go through this process several times. You may need multiple anchors for the different bottom conditions you may come across. If you foul an anchor or lose one, a spare anchor and rode can literally be a lifesaver.

Other reasons for multiple anchors include a lighter anchor for a "lunch hook," though with an electric windlass this isn't much of a concern on bigger boats. You may want a smaller stern anchor in case you need to anchor where you don't want to swing, or it's important to keep your bow facing a direction other than into the wind. And finally, if you plan to cruise far from your home port, you may want a storm anchor.

Any of the anchor types we've discussed will fill many of the above roles, and you can use these tools to evaluate your boat and your plans to make the best choice for each job.

The next step is to select the right ground tackle. Ground tackle consists of everything that connects the anchor to your boat and is used to control the angle of attack, scope, and drag by adding or removing weight to the anchor.

I've written a detailed guide to help you to understand ground tackle in depth , which will help you select the perfect parts yourself.

You may also like, how to measure your anchor chain size (two ways).

Buying new anchor your chain for your boat can be more complex than it sounds. You can't just walk into a marine store and order "A hundred meters of your best." …

How to Select and Install the Right Anchor Rode

How To Mark & Measure Anchor Chain & Rode (3 Ways)

Guide to Anchoring Ground Tackle - parts, checks, deployment

How Much Anchor Chain Should You Let Out When Anchoring?

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Best Sailboat Anchors of 2024

Stopping to explore nearby reefs and grab a quick bite of lunch, sailors often take for granted the safety and security an anchor provides. But if you’ve ever had to ride out a storm—or dragged anchor at night—you’ll soon learn the importance in choosing the best sailboat anchor for your vessel.

To determine how strong your anchor needs to be, we must first understand the differences between old guards versus new generations. Choosing an anchor takes many factors into consideration, some of which tailor to personal sailing habits, your vessel’s size and even the body of water you frequently sail.

While encouraging you to challenge your seafaring skills, we at The Adventure Junkies want beginner sailors and liveaboards to find safe anchorage during rough seas. Below, you’ll find a breakdown of common anchor types and when to use them.

For more of our top sailing gear recommendations, check out the Best Sailboat Winches .

QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST SAILBOAT ANCHORS

Manson Supreme
Manson Boss
Rocna Original
LEWMAR Delta Fast-Set
LEWMAR Bruce-Style Claw
Danforth S-600

SAILBOAT ANCHOR REVIEWS

Check out the latest price on: Amazon

BEST FOR: Sailors who anchor in all seabed types

MATERIAL: Galvanized steel

BOW ROLLER: Yes

PROS: Self-righting roll bar, new generation anchor, sets in hard and grassy seabeds, lifetime warranty

CONS: Less affordable

MANSON SUPREME

BEST FOR: Larger sailboats who sail in all types of seabeds

PROS: Self-righting, new generation anchor, narrow shank with 2 slots for day use and anchor trip

CONS: Less affordable, comparable to Rocna

MANSON BOSS

BEST FOR: Sailors who want their vessel to be both functional and aesthetically pleasing

MATERIAL: High tensile galvanized and stainless steel

PROS: Self-launching curved fixed-shank, strong surface area to hold ratio, adjustable shackle for fixed eye and sliding shank for anchor trip

CONS: Narrow shank, no self-righting roll bar

ROCNA ORIGINAL

BEST FOR: Vessels that frequent strong winds and tide shifts

PROS: New generation, self-righting roll bar design, plow-style wide fluke, sharp chisel, fits most bow rollers

CONS: More expensive than fluke-styles

BEST FOR: Vessels under 40 foot that frequent strong winds and tide shifts

PROS: Corkscrew plow design that digs deep, holds strong in every seabed condition, ballasted tip

CONS: More expensive

BEST FOR: Vessels that sail in marshy areas with grassy sea bottoms

PROS: Good for bow rollers, pivoting hinge shank, quickly resets

CONS: pinches fingers, hard setting in rocky bottoms

LEWMAR DELTA FAST-SET

BEST FOR: Vessels that sail in sand and grass

MATERIAL: Galvanized manganese steel

PROS: Performs well in grass and sand, one piece construction, performs well on bow roller

CONS: Fixed shank underperforms in mud

Check out the latest price on: West Marine

BEST FOR: Sailors who need a fast-setting anchor in mud or sandy seabeds

MATERIAL: Aluminum

PROS: Similar to Danforth, lightweight, easily stored, good hold to weight ratio, fast-setting

CONS: Does not perform well in rocky and grassy seabeds

LEWMAR BRUCE-STYLE CLAW

BEST FOR: Budget-conscious sailors with sailboats larger than 30 feet

MATERIAL: High tensile steel

PROS: No moving parts to break, lighter than plow, holds well to grass seabeds

CONS: Heavier than most anchors, low holding power, not easy to store, drags in storm conditions

DANFORTH S-600

BEST FOR: Smaller sailing vessels who sail in mud and sandy sea bottoms

BOW ROLLER: No

PROS: Good general anchor for smaller vessels, lightweight, easily stowable

CONS: Doesn’t reset well, not compatible for most bow rollers, pinches fingers

COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST SAILBOAT ANCHORS

8 things to consider to find the best sailboat anchor, monohull vs. multihull vessel types.

A beginner sailor might question which anchor is better for their vessel’s hull type. But to be clear–when it comes to choosing an anchor for either monohulls or multihulls (like catamarans), the type of anchor you choose depends more on your vessel’s size and weight. Vessel types are rarely–if ever–a deciding factor.

LAKES VS. COASTAL WATERWAYS

Lakes and rivers do not require the same strength you would need for coastal waters and open seas. But take your sailboat on the Great Lakes, ICW (Intracoastal Waterway) or to brave a transatlantic journey, and you’ll need something more adequate. All anchors listed here are for coastal waterways, but may also be efficient for smaller bodies of water.

CHOOSING THE CORRECT ANCHOR WEIGHT FOR VESSEL LENGTH

To choose the correct anchor weight for your vessel, you need to know your vessel’s weight and length. Always verify the anchor manufacturer’s specifications and suggested vessel length, but know the numbers are typically inflated. I suggest to always bump up to the next size and sail with a heavier anchor than your vessel requires.

CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS

Anchors are forged from a variety of materials; some metals more modern than others. Keep in mind when you purchase that manufacturers may carry anchor styles in a variety of materials.

Aluminum anchors are lightweight by comparison, but come at a cost. Less affordable than steel anchors, they are also not as strong. But sailor prefer them because–when set correctly–they have high holding power.

GALVANIZED STEEL

Galvanized steel is a very strong and inexpensive metal. This material is perfect for sailors who don’t much care how shiny their anchor appears on the bow roller. But although galvanized metal is corrosive, it can wear over some time. Be sure to look for hot-dipped galvanized steel or plan for it to be re-galvanized.

STAINLESS STEEL

If you want your anchor to appear more aesthetically pleasing, stainless steel is the material of choice. Stainless steel is also more resistant to rust and corrosion, but keep in mind it scratches easily and can make anchors more costly.

HIGH TENSILE STEEL

With nearly 3 times the holding power strength as regular steel, making most anchors with high-tensile steel relatively stronger–as long as the anchor sets well.

MANGANESE STEEL

A newer material offered for anchors is manganese steel. Manganese combines the strength of mild steels with high-impact durability for setting repeatedly in rocky seabeds.

SEABED CONDITIONS

Beneath the water’s surface, you can encounter a variety of seabeds. This is one of the most important deciding factors in choosing a sailboat anchor. For liveaboards who find themselves sailing in a variety of seabeds, a plow style anchor or scoop is universal, whereas fluke anchors are perfect for flat sands and muddy bottoms.

ROCKS, REEFS AND CORAL

Rocky seabeds can secure anchors quite well, if not a little too well. Sometimes, sailors find themselves needing to dislodge anchors which become stuck. In these cases, it’s wise to use anchors with slotted shanks, making it easier to release trip lines.

MUD, SAND AND GRASS

Muddy bottoms and sandy seabeds require fluke-style anchors with wide surface areas. And because mud can disguise underlying sediments, it also helps if the anchor can penetrate. Fortress anchors are great for these seabed conditions.

Sandy seabeds grab anchors very well, but challenges arise during shifting tides. Hinged-shank fluke anchors allow pivoting and non-hinged scoop anchors rotate under the sand.

Grass tends to be slippery, making it difficult for certain anchor types to grasp. In these seabeds, heavier anchors outperform engineered designs.

WEATHER CONDITIONS

Even if you have a nightwatch partner, sudden storms overtake vessels and send them off course. If you want to set anchor without the worry, many new generation anchors have been tested in hurricanes and outperformed old guard anchors in extreme weather.

HOW WELL DOES IT SET?

If an anchor lacks a way to position itself, it may not set as optimally as intended. You want to assure the anchor is engineered to self-right itself into position when it falls on the seabed. Anchors can set by using a combination of factors from roll bars to tip ballasts to chiseled fluke styles.

The new generation anchors are designed with roll bars, reacting to flat seabeds by self-righting and rolling itself over. Originally engineered by Rocna , the design has been further adopted by more anchor manufacturers like Manson .

TIP BALLASTS

In place of roll bars, tip ballasts are simply weighted on one end. It will naturally tilt toward the tip ballasts edge, allowing the anchor to set when it’s dragged. Anchors can have both roll bars and tip ballasts.

DOES IT MOVE WITH CURRENT & TIDE CHANGES?

One challenging skill in dropping anchor is, in fact, getting it out again to reset. With some anchors, setting it on the first try is a matter of luck, especially when you’re unsure of your seabed condition. It’s important to be able to quickly reset, or you may find yourself strapping on a wet suit and goggles to retrieve it in frigid waters.

Sailors should always carry two anchor varieties. This way, after reading a sonar signatures to determine your depth and seabed conditions, you can choose which anchor will best hold as well as the scope needed to reach.

HINGED SHANKS

Hinged shank anchors are needed for sailing in waters where there are tidal changes. If the sailboat turns about, a hinged shank can pivot itself without having to be reset. But moving parts pinch so watch those fingers!

FIXED SHANKS

Fixed shank anchors are fine anchors if you aren’t worried about tidal changes and currents. You may also rely on fixed shanks in muddy seabeds if they are also scoop-styles.

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18 Most Popular Sailboat Anchor Types

Being able to anchor out after having arrived in a cozy and isolated bay to enjoy the rest of the day in complete contentedness or simply anchoring right outside a marina to save a bit of time and money is an amazing luxury to have.

To properly set a sailboat anchor, however, requires a good quality, dependable anchor , so knowing the different sailboat anchor types is a must.

Knowing which sailboat anchor type is best for you depends on which conditions you’ll mostly be using your anchor. If you’re like most people, you’ll only need to choose between a few sailboat anchor types, but it’s always good to know about all the options available to you.

That’s exactly why I put together a list of the most popular sailboat anchor types that you’ll want to consider adding to your sailboat the next time you’re out on the water setting anchor.

However, there has been a resurgence in terms of anchor design over the years, so I’ll be distinguishing between the classic and modern sailboat anchor types.

What Makes a Good Anchor

Before we dive into the many different sailboat anchor types, we should quickly cover what makes a good anchor .

Depending on the circumstances, you’ll want one anchor over another. However, there are certain qualities we want in almost all of our anchors before we set out on a sailing adventure.

Fast Dig in Time: It’s important that any anchor you use has the ability to dig into the seabed as fast as possible. The sooner the anchor is attached to the seabed, the earlier your chain will lay out.
Buries Deep into the Seabed: Ensuring your anchor can bury well into the seabed means it’ll be firmly attached to the Earth. The anchor chain does most of the work when keeping your sailboat from moving much, but the anchor’s position must be solid.
Holds a High Load: There are a lot of different sailboats of different sizes. Making sure the anchor you have has a sufficient surface area, flukes, and holding power is of the utmost importance for ensuring a strong holding power.
Maneuvers Well During Tide and Current Shifts: There will be times when the tide, currents, and wind move your sailboat around while anchored out. Being confident your anchor can effectively maneuver under these conditions while staying well enough in place is a very important quality.

Classic Sailboat Anchor Types

Let’s take a look at some of the classic types of anchors used in sailboats.

You’ll most definitely see these anchor types in sailboats all over the world, so it’s a good idea to get accustomed to them and understand their advantages and disadvantages.

Fisherman/Admiralty Anchor

Probably the most common image of a sailboat anchor that’s conjured up in our heads is the traditional Fisherman/Admiralty anchor.

This sailboat anchor type is what we see on many coats of arms or similar symbols and can still be found on sailboats all over the world.

Can be stowed flat.
Holding power in sand, mud, or other loose seabed is good.
Less likely to break due to few moving parts.

Disadvantages

Relatively heavier than other anchors causing difficulty to move them.
Damage to the sailboat can be caused by the anchor’s flukes when being tossed around.
Possibility of the anchor chain getting tied up in the vertical fluke.

CQR/Plough Anchor

The CQR or Plough anchor was developed in 1933 in the UK and has been a very popular sailboat anchor type ever since.

Named CQR because it sounds like the word “secure” when being pronounced, it’s a versatile type of anchor since it can secure a sailboat even when tides and currents change all of a sudden.

Holds very well in soft seabeds such as mud or sand.
Relatively light anchor that still provides a strong holding power.
Digs into the seabed well compared to other sailboat anchor types.
Oddly shaped so stowing can be difficult.
Moving parts can get damaged and can cause injuries to fingers.
Sometimes requires a tripping line to remove from the seabed.
Not ideal for seabed with kelp or hard sand.

Danforth Anchor

The Danforth anchor is a type of anchor for a sailboat that was developed back in the 1940s in the US and specifically designed for WW2 landing craft.

Since then they’ve been used in all kinds of sailboats and are a common sailboat anchor type for those anchoring often in loose seabeds, like sand or mud.

Excellent hold when in the sand, mud, or other loose seabeds.
Relatively light anchor that still provides a strong holding power (similar to the CQR anchor).
Not ideal when anchoring in rocks.

Delta Anchor

Not unlike the design of a CQR/Plough anchor, a Delta anchor is a popular type of anchor for sailboats nowadays.

The main difference between a CQR anchor and a Delta anchor is that a Delta anchor has no moving parts and is thus fixed into one piece. This sailboat anchor’s been around since the 1980s and is a great alternative to a CQR anchor.

No moving parts that pinch your fingers.

Bruce Anchor

Another popular anchor developed in the UK, the Bruce or Claw anchor was developed in the 1970s and has a reputation of being a good type of sailboat anchor in many settings.

This type of anchor doesn’t have any movable parts and has an effective way of realigning itself with changes in the wind and tide.

Digs well into the seabed.
Holds well in soft seabeds such as mud or sand.
Easy to break out when pulling it in.
Difficulty in penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

Grapnel Anchor

A Grapnel anchor is well suited for those looking to anchor in more rocky and coral-filled areas where there’s little seabed around that’s soft.

The great part about having a Grapnel anchor is that it can easily catch quickly by using its hooks to grab on to surrounding objects.

Holds well in hard seabed environments such as rock or coral.
Not ideal for soft seabeds like sand or mud.

Modern Anchor Types

Now that we’ve reviewed the more classical anchor types, let’s dive into the newer generation of sailboat anchor types that you’ll run into more and more as the years progress.

It’s not unlikely that you’ll find one of these newer generation anchors on your sailboat, so let’s see what they’re all about.

Bugel or Wasi Anchor

The Bugel or Wasi anchor was designed in Germany by a man named Rolf Kaczirek and set the stage for a new approach to anchor design around the world.

This anchor has a roll bar attached to a single delta that’s flat and sharply pointed allowing it to penetrate most seabeds it encounters.

Digs into a diverse set of seabeds.
Has a relatively lightweight.
No moving parts.
Relatively inexpensive to purchase.
Roll bar moves weight away from the tip causing potential less digging.
Not ideal for very large sailboats.

Spade Anchor

The Spade anchor is an innovative sailboat anchor type that was designed in France in 1996. It’s an extremely light anchor that has an effective gripping power that’s quite similar to a Delta anchor but instead compacts the floor much better.

The holding power of a Spade anchor is known to be extremely powerful.

Very lightweight.
Digs into the seabed quite well.
Can be disassembled for easy stowing.

Rocna Anchor

One of the most popular types of anchors for sailboats today, the Rocna anchor is a very good choice for an anchor. It was originally designed in New Zealand in 2004 and has since taken the anchor industry by storm.

By combining the best design feature from the Bugel and Spade anchors, it truly has set itself apart. It’s by far the most popular for cruising sailboat worldwide.

Very strong holding power.
Has the ability to dig into almost any seabed.
Excellent surface area.
Difficult to stow sometimes due to the row bar component.

Manson Supreme Anchor

The Manson Supreme anchor was designed in 2003 and has become a popular sailboat anchor in recent years due to it being able to have a very high holding weight and ability to settle fast.

Since it has a dual operation shank, it’s able to effectively dig into all seabed types with ease. It even has the rollbar design that the more modern anchors are known for.

Has been known to be heavy.

Bulwagga Anchor

The Bulwagga anchor not only has a funny-sounding name, but it’s also one of the more uniquely designed anchors in the world. Instead of having the normal three flukes, it has a total of three.

Needless to say, this anchor has been well tested and proven to be a highly effective anchor in many situations.

Has the ability to dig into almost any seabed, especially in weeds, coral, and rocks.
Easy to retrieve back onto the ship.
Difficult to stow sometimes due to having three flukes.

Knox Anchor

The Knox anchor was invented by John Knox in Scottland and has an exceptional holding power similar to the Rocna anchor.

As a matter of fact, this anchor is able to hold 40 times its anchor weight, which is a stunning feat.

Digs well into many types of seabed.
Sometimes difficult when penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

Ultra Anchor

Known as one of the most innovative Spade-designed anchors, the Ultra anchor is rapidly becoming one of the most popular anchor types and is often seen as a replacement for the Bruce anchor.

It’s a rather heavy anchor since it’s made out of stainless steel and has lead inside the tip of its fluke. While not cheap, the Ultra anchor is known to work virtually guaranteed.

Arguably the strongest and most reliable holding power.
Very heavy to carry and retrieve.
Relatively expensive compared to other anchors.

Vulcan Anchor

Similar to the Rocna anchor, the Vulcan anchor is almost a carbon copy of the Rocna anchor minus the fact that it doesn’t have a roll-bar.

The main reason for the creation of the Vulcan anchor was to accommodate sailors who found it difficult to stow the Rocna anchor. This is a fantastic choice for any sailor.

None that could be found.

Manork Anchor

One of the most recent sailboat anchor types designed over the years is the Manork anchors, which were designed in Slovenia by Marko Janjanin in 2017.

It has proven to be an extremely well-designed, well-functioning anchor that can accommodate sailors in many weather and seabed conditions. It’s been heavily tested in strong storms and loose seabeds only to pass with flying colors.

Has a unique fluke design made for strong holding power.
Roll bar moves weight away from the tip causing potentially less digging.

Other Anchor Types

More likely than not, you’ll want to opt for one of the more modern types of anchors for sailboats if you have the opportunity.

However, there are several other anchor types that are effective in different environments that may not be the most common, but are useful when needed.

Mushroom Anchor

The Mushroom anchor was invented by Robert Stevenson and is most commonly used in seabeds that are composed of silt or fine sand.

While it’s not likely that you’ll ever be in such an environment, a Mushroom anchor will ensure that you’re safe to anchor in case you ever are. Since it’s shaped like a mushroom and inverted, the head of the anchor effectively buries itself directly into the sand.

They rely heavily on a suction effect between the seabed and the anchor, therefore the seabed must be relatively fine.

Hydrobubble Anchor

Not unlike the CQR/Plough anchor, a Hydrobubble anchor has a similar design but with a slight twist. It has attached to it a buoyancy tank that allows the anchor to safely float down to the seabed without fluttering around and causing an issue when it lands.

This almost entirely ensures that the anchor is in a good position and securely attached to the seabed. All in all, it’s just like a CQR/Plouch anchor but just better at landing in a good position.

Sand Anchor

There aren’t many anchors out there like a proper Sand anchor, mainly since this type of anchor is attached directly to the shore of a beach.

These types of anchors are designed to give your sailboat a firm attachment to sand on land when necessary. Generally, a spike is either driven or screwed into sand for a temporary amount of time.

It’s important to note, however, that these types of anchors are strictly temporary and should be monitored constantly.

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The 5 Best Sailboat Anchors

A good anchor for a sailboat will help keep a vessel stationary and stable in the water in any weather conditions or marine environment.

There are a number of top anchors for sailing boats that can work on sailboats of both small and large sizes of under 20ft to over 100ft.

The best sailboat anchors are:

Best Overall : Mantus Marine M1 Mantus Anchor
Best For Holding Boat : Lewmar Claw Anchor
Best For Price : Seachoice Utility Anchor
Best For Small Sailboats : Fortress FX-11 Anchor
Best For Large Sailboats : Rocna Galvanized Anchor

These anchors will ensure the sailboat is anchoring properly in any sailing conditions.

Sailboat owners should choose an anchor based on the size and type of their sailboat as well as the type of marine environment their vessel will be located in.

For example, anchoring a sailboat on a sandy surface is different than anchoring a sailboat on a rocky surface and it will require different anchors.

1. M1 Mantus Galvanized Anchor

M1 Mantus Galvanized Anchor Best Overall Anchor

The best overall sailboat anchor is the M1 Mantus anchor manufactured by the brand Mantus Marine in Texas, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best overall anchor because it can dig deep into the seafloor and ensure the sailing vessel will not float away.

The M1 Mantus anchor is constructed of hot-dipped galvanized steel with the shank and shank boot welded from top to bottom.

It is a plow anchor shaped with a sharp triangle-shaped nose, a straight shank and a "U" shaped roll bar bolted to a fluke.

This anchor comes in many different sizes from 8lbs to 175lbs. It comes with 4 American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) certified bolts.

The M1 Mantus anchor is used on seafloor surfaces including sandy, gravel, grassy and muddy sea floors. It is not used on rocky sea floors.

The M1 Mantus can be used in different types of locations including rivers, sea and lakes.

Sailboat sizes of 20ft to 65ft can use the M1 Mantus anchor.

The M1 Mantus anchor is priced between $180 for the smallest 8lb anchor to approximately $3,000 for the largest 175lb anchor at most retailers.

The M1 Mantus anchor works to hold a vessel in position in winds of up to 40 knots, highlighting its great holding power abilities.

The benefits of the M1 Mantus anchor are:

It comes with a great lifetime warranty : The Mantus Marine manufacturer offers a lifetime warranty on this anchor for added peace of mind
It can be disassembled easily for storage : Simple disassembling bolts make it easy for storing this anchor when it is not in use
Multiple size options : With anchor size options from 8lbs to 175lbs, sailboat owners of different vessel sizes, from small sailboats of 20ft to large sailboats of 65ft can use this anchor
It works in multiple marine conditions : This anchor works in multiple marine conditions from calm ocean currents to extremely windy and storm conditions with up to 40 knots of wind speed
High-performance sharp head nose enables easy penetration of the sea floor : The sharp edge nose of this anchor means it penetrates the ocean floor fast and with ease
It is hot dipped galvanized for corrosion prevention : This anchor is hot dipped galvanized giving it extra protection against corrosion and wear from corrosive seawater
It comes with 4 high-quality oversized A.S.T.M. certified bolts : This anchor comes with 4 oversized bolts with a large margin of safety that will help prevent damage

One disadvantage of the M1 Mantus anchor is it is more expensive than other anchors on the market.

M1 Mantas Anchor On Amazon →

M1 Mantas Anchor On eBay →

2. Lewmar Claw Anchor

Lewmar Claw Anchor Best Holding Power Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for its holding power is the Lewmar Claw anchor manufactured by the brand Lewmar in Hampshire, United Kingdom and sold worldwide.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is constructed of high-grade galvanized steel cast in a single piece. This anchor was inspired and designed based on anchors used to secure oil rigs in the North Sea.

The Lewmar Claw anchor comes in sizes from 2.2lbs to 176lbs. It is used on seabed surfaces including sandy, muddy, gravel and grassy ocean floors. It is not used on rocky surfaces.

The Lewmar Claw anchor can be used in different types of marine locations including ocean, lake and river floors.

Sailboat sizes of 12ft to 65ft can use the Lewmar Claw anchor.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is priced between approximately $30 for the smallest 2.2lb anchor to approximately $1,300 for the largest 176lb anchor at most retailers.

The Lewmar Claw anchor can hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 50 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Lewmar Claw anchor are:

It's fast setting : Depending on the sea depth, this anchor can set and begin anchoring a vessel in under 5 minutes
It has great holding power : This anchor can help with anchoring boats in position in extremely harsh weather conditions with winds up to 50 knots
Easy bow roller storable : This anchor can fit and store nicely in most bow roller shapes and styles without any issues
It's a budget-friendly anchor : The Lewmar Claw anchor is one of the cheapest on the market and it should be within most sailboat owner's budget with the most expensive anchor sold at a price of approximately $1,300
It's built with strong & high-quality material : The Lewmar Claw is built with high-quality and heat-treated steel with a galvanized finish

One disadvantage of the Lewmar Claw anchor is it does not come with a lifetime warranty.

Lewmar Claw Anchor On Amazon →

Lewmar Claw Anchor On Walmart →

3. Seachoice Utility Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for the price is the Seachoice Utility anchor manufactured by the brand Seachoice in Florida, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best for the price because it offers the most options for the cheapest price on the market.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is constructed of hot-dipped galvanized steel or PVC-coated steel. It comes in 5 different color options including red, black, white, light blue and grey.

This anchor comes in different sizes from 4.5lbs to 8.5lbs.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is priced at approximately $25 for the smallest 4.5lb anchor to approximately $70 for the larger 8.5lb anchor at most retailers.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is used on different seabed surfaces including gravel, sand, grassy and muddy sea floors. It is not used on rocky seafloors.

The Seachoice anchor can be used in different types of marine locations including the sea, rivers and lakes.

Sailboat sizes of 10ft to 30ft can use the Seachoice Utility anchor.

The Seachoice Utility anchor can hold a sailboat in position and keep it anchored in wind speeds up to 30 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Seachoice Utility anchor are:

It comes with a 1-year warranty : The Seachoice Utility anchor comes with a 1-year manufacturers warranty for added peace of mind
It comes in multiple color options : Sailboat owners can choose from 5 different anchor colors
It's easy to retrieve from the seawater : This anchor comes with a great slip-ring design that makes it easy to retrieve it from the water after use
Sharp anchor fluke design makes penetration easy : The sharp fluke design helps the anchor to easily penetrate the seafloor surface
It is cheap : The Seachoice Utility anchor is the cheapest anchor on the market with the largest anchor priced at approximately $70

Two disadvantages of the Seachoice Utility anchor are the anchor can only be used on smaller sailboats up to 30ft in length and it can not be used on larger sailboats over 30ft and the anchor can not be used on rocky sea floors.

Seachoice Utility Anchor On Amazon →

Seachoice Utility Anchor On Walmart →

4. Fortress FX-11 Anchor

Fortress FX-11 Anchor Best For Small Sailboats

The best sailboat anchor for small sailboats is the Fortress FX-11 anchor manufactured by the brand Fortress Marine Anchors in Florida, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best for small boats because its lightweight aluminum material is capable of holding a sailboat up to 32ft without the anchor being extra heavy.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is constructed of aluminum alloy material and it comes in a size of 7lbs.

It comes with a pivot adjustment which allows an adjustment of the anchor angle between 32° to 45°.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is used on seafloor surfaces including sand, gravel, mud and grassy surfaces. It is not used on rocky seafloor surfaces.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor can be used in different marine locations including lakes, rivers and the sea.

Sailboat sizes of between 28ft to 32ft can use the FX-11 anchor.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is priced at approximately $200 at most retailers.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor works to hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 30 knots without the vessel floating away.

The benefits of the Fortress FX-11 anchor are:

It's rustproof : The light but strong aluminum material is rustproof meaning the anchor will not suffer from rusting caused by the corrosive seawater
It comes with a lifetime parts warranty : The Fortress FX-11 anchor comes with a lifetime parts replacement warranty against damage that might occur to any parts of the anchor
It is easy to store after use : It can be easily disassembled which means it is easy to store onboard the sailboat after using it#
Penetrates the seafloor and sets deeper : The sharp edge d anchor allows it to easily penetrate seafloors and anchor a boat

One disadvantage of the Fortress FX-11 anchor is it can only be used on smaller sailboats between 28ft to 32ft and it cannot be used on larger sailing vessels over 32ft.

Fortress FX-11 On Amazon →

Fortress FX-11 On Walmart →

5. Rocna Galvanized Anchor

Rocna Galvanized Anchor Best For Large Sailboats

The best anchor for larger sailboats is the Rocna galvanized steel anchor manufactured by the brand Rocna in British Columbia, Canada and sold worldwide.

The Rocna anchor is constructed of galvanized steel with solid welding from top to bottom.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor was designed by New Zealand sailor Peter Smith.

The Rocna anchor design comes with a roll-bar to ensure the anchor can penetrate the surface at the best angle and one-third of the anchor's weight is on the fluke tip which also helps with the penetration of the seafloor surface.

The Rocna anchor comes in 14 different sizes from 9lbs to 606lbs.

This fluke anchor is the best for larger sailboats because it offers anchors up to 606lbs which will help with anchoring most larger sailing vessels.

The Rocna anchor can be used on all sea surfaces from gravel, mud, sand, clay, kelp and rocks. It can also be used in marine locations including lakes, rivers and the sea.

Sailboat sizes of 12ft to over 300ft can use the Rocna galvanized steel anchor.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor is priced between approximately $220 for the smallest 9lbs anchor to approximately $12,000 for the largest 606lb anchor.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor can hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 40 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Rocna galvanized anchor are:

It comes with a great lifetime warranty : The Rocna galvanized anchor comes with a lifetime warranty against breakage, manufacturing defects and bending for added peace of mind
It can be used on all sea surfaces : The Rocna galvanized steel anchor can be used on all sea surfaces including gravel, sand, mud and rocky sea floors and it is not limited or restricted to just a few types of surfaces
It sets fast : The sharp edge fluke helps penetrate the sea surface and the anchor sets fast as a result of this design

One disadvantage of the Rocna anchor is it is not the cheapest anchor with the cheapest price at approximately $220.

Rocna Anchor On Amazon →

Top Sailboat Anchors Comparison Table

What to consider when buying a sailboat anchor.

The factors to consider before buying a sailboat anchor are:

Type of material used : The type of material used to create the anchor is an important consideration when buying a sailboat anchor. Most modern anchors are constructed using aluminum steel or galvanized steel
Durability : How long the anchor can last is a factor to consider when buying a sailboat anchor. Modern anchors come with lifetime warranties and they should last for well over 10 years
Size Of The Boat : Identifying the proper anchor size for a boat is not a perfect science but the size of your boat is an extremely important factor to consider when choosing a top sailboat anchor. Typically, the larger the boat size, the bigger the anchor that is required
Price : Price will also play a big role in the sailboat anchor you buy. Anchors come in many different prices for many different budgets

Frequently Asked Questions About The Best Sailboat Anchors

Below are the most common and frequently asked questions about the top sailing vessel anchors.

What Are The Best Sailboat Anchor Brands?

The best sailboat anchor brands are:

Five Oceans Danforth Style
Mantus Marine

Are Top Sailing Boat Anchors Expensive?

No, top sailboat anchors are not expensive with some of the best sailboat anchors priced as little as $25 in some instances.

What Are The Different Types Of Sailboat Anchors Available For Sailboat Owners?

The types of sailboat anchors available are:

Fluke anchors
Plow anchors
Claw anchors
Mushroom anchors
Grapnel anchors

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How to Pick a Boat Anchor: The Guide to Types, Sizes & Weights

October 20, 2023

Lakes can get choppy, and river currents can drag you along when you'd rather stay put. Having the right anchor on your boat is crucial, especially if you're busy staging for a wakeboard or ski ride .

But what type and size of anchor is best for your setup?

Types of Boat Anchors

Let's look at the most popular types of boat anchors, and look at some charts to figure out what size and weight anchor is right for you.

Fluke Anchors

Also known as a Danforth anchor, the fluke anchor is favored by lake and river boat owners for its lightweight design and excellent holding power in soft bottoms.

Fluke anchors have a rotating bar that connects the anchor to the line. Their forward-heavy profile allows the flukes to drive straight down into sand or mud. As line is laid out, the bar swivels into a horizontal position, providing good scope.

Boat Size: 30 feet or less
Best For: Lakes, rivers, mud and sand
Bad For: Rocks, debris, coral, strong currents

Plow Anchors

Also called a delta anchor, the plow anchor is one of the most popular anchors on the boat market. It's simple and effective, capable of providing reliable mooring in all water conditions and most beds.

Plow anchors dig into the surface below and they provide high holding power. They set quickly, which makes them an excellent choice when strong currents and winds could otherwise quickly move your boat.

But plow anchors' large, flat fins can get stuck in debris and large rocks, so it's best to stick to softer bottoms.

Boat Size: 70 feet or less
Best For: Sand, mud, grass bottoms, strong winds
Bad For: Rocky bottoms

Claw Anchors

Also known as a Bruce anchor, the claw anchor is similar to a plow anchor: It sets quickly and digs into soft bottoms, providing good holding power against currents and wind -- though not as well as a plow.

Because claw anchors use smaller pins, they're better suited in gravel and rock, affording a lower risk of catching and getting stuck where a plow anchor might get hung up.

Digger Anchors

The digger anchor excels at providing high holding power in gravel and rocky bottoms, even with strong currents and high wind. It uses a rod that partially rotates, while limiting the angle of the anchor line's scope.

As current and wind pull on the boat, the rod's limited angle pulls on the anchor's claws, pushing them further into the bottom. The digger's thin, long claws work great in virtually all bottom, including gravel and small rocks -- just avoid large debris, as the limited angle of the anchor rod prevents it from being pulled back out of a snag effectively.

Boat Size: 40 feet or less
Best For: Sand, mud, grass, gravel, strong winds
Bad For: Bottoms with large debris

Navy Anchors

The classic, heavy, big navy anchor excels at providing high holding power in all waters and conditions. Its size and shape make it suitable for rocky bottoms and debris fields, as it has little risk of getting snagged.

The only problem with a navy anchor is that its benefits can become problematic for smaller vessels: Because navy anchors are large and heavy, they can be difficult to stow, and they add plenty of weight to the hull.

Boat Size: 20+ feet
Best For: All bottoms, currents, and weather
Bad For: Small, light boats

Mushroom Anchors

The mushroom anchor is made for small vessels in relatively calm waters with soft bottoms. It relies on suction and sinking into sand, dirt, and mud to provide holding power. These anchors are typically found on light, electric motor-powered boats, kayaks, and dingy boats.

Boat Size: 12 feet or less
Best For: Soft bottoms free of rock
Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents, rocky bottoms

River Anchors

Like the mushroom anchor, the river anchor is also intended for small vessels in lakes and rivers -- but with one exception: The river anchor works well in rocky bottoms and beds filled with debris. The wide, flat flukes work best when they can grab hold of objects on the floor. River anchors work well enough in soft bottoms, albeit with less holding power than a mushroom.

Best For: rocky bottoms and debris fields
Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents

Choosing The right Size Anchor

When selecting a boat anchor, it's important to consider the following factors:

The size and weight of your boat will determine the size and weight of the anchor you need. As a general rule, the heavier the boat, the larger and heavier the anchor should be.

Water and Weather

The type of weather and currents you encounter will influence your anchor choice. Different anchors perform better in different conditions, so it's important to choose one that suits your boating environment.

Conditions of Water Bed

The floor your anchor rests upon can vary wildly. Some lakes and rivers have rocky bottoms filled with debris, while others have soft silt or sand. Picking the wrong setup could mean you wind up drifting, or worse, cutting line because your anchor got stuck at the bottom.

Anchor Weight vs. Boat Size Chart

The chart above is a general guideline for selecting the appropriate anchor weight for your boat. Conditions on the water, and the weight of your boat -- regardless of its size -- could mean you need a heavier anchor.

Anchor Chain vs. Rope

When it comes to anchoring, you'd think chain is far superior to rope. But chain really only provides two advantages: It adds holding power, helping to keep your boat moored in one spot in rough water and strong currents, and it resists chafing -- it won't suffer damage from being dragged along debris and rocks.

Chain is heavy, though, so it adds weight to your craft when not being used. This isn't a concern on large, sea-going vessels. But you probably don't want that added weight when you're cruising around on the river or lake, especially when towing a wakeboard, tube, or skis.

Chain also rusts, even with regular maintenance, and it's expensive. Nowadays, synthetic anchor rope is tough and abrasion-resistant, and it withstands water and sunlight incredibly well. It's also lightweight relative to its strength, and it takes up much less space than chain.

The most effective setup combines a bit of chain near the anchor, with rope making up the rest of the line. Just a few feet of chain is needed to ensure your anchor is properly seated. This bit of chain also improves the scope of your line. "Scope?" You, say? Read on.

It's All About Scope

Rope alone will provide as much holding power as chain, so long as your scope is correct. Scope measures the ratio of the length of deployed rope (or chain) to the height from the ocean, lake, or riverbed to the anchor point on the boat.

The minimum effective scope you need to properly moor your vessel with any anchor and line is 5:1. That means if the depth from your boat's topside to the underwater floor is 5 feet, you need 25 feet of rope laid out below. This affords about 75% of the maximum holding power of your anchor and line.

A scope of 10:1, laid perfectly flat on the bed below, provides 100% holding power. Using the same 5 foot depth, you'd need 50 feet of anchor rope or chain laid out for max holding power.

Need a new anchor setup? Check out our boat anchors and anchor lines !

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Boat Anchor Types: A Complete Guide

Table of Contents

To live out your boating dreams, it is important to ensure your safety and ensure that you have the best anchor. Anchors are essential for any boating activity and crucial for any experienced or amateur boater. By mastering the fundamentals of safe anchoring, you will safeguard your boating experiences from any accidents or anxiety. This guide will help you choose your ultimate anchor and provide tips for choosing which boat anchor is right for you. After choosing the anchor that is your right fit, you will be able to have smooth sails ahead and enjoy a stress-free time with friends and family.

Knowing the Ropes

Knowing your whole anchor system will be essential in shopping for an anchor. The anchor system is comprised of the chain, rope, shackle, and deck cleats along with the anchor. Each of these items must deliver the quality, performance, and strength that you need to anchor your boat .

Your Anchor Line: The Anchor Rode

Using a short anchor chain and three-strand nylon line will greatly reduce loads of shocks on your boat and the anchor system. Nylon is very elastic and helps reduce shockwaves or damage to the boat. Avoid anchor rodes that use all chains because they will lack the shock-absorbing qualities of nylon rope when the winds increase. The chain protects the line from chafing on the seabed.

If regularly anchoring in 25-ft of water or less, use 6 ft of chain. In greater depths, use an additional 6 ft for every 25-ft of water depth.

Holding Power

You have to make sure that the anchor you choose will support the boat you are operating and will fit the conditions of the environment you will be boating in. Choosing the right anchor for the type of boat you operate and the type of wind conditions you will be encountering is essential for boating safely. You must be certain that your anchor will be able to hold your boat. Here are three different types of anchors and rules of thumb for the durability of an boat anchor.

Lunch Hook: This anchor should hold a boat in a 15- knot breeze.
Working Anchor: This anchor should hold up to 30-knots of wind.
Storm Anchor: This anchor is for winds up to 42-knots of wind.

It is important to remember that as a general rule, when the wind speed doubles, the holding requirement quadruples. Be mindful of holding power requirements for different wind speeds, and use this information as a rule of thumb!

Know Your Scope

The scope is the length of the anchor line in relation to the distance of your boat’s deck to the bottom of the sea. Understanding scope is critical in anchoring and boating safely. The scope’s ratio should at least be 5:1, length to distance. When the scope increases, the anchor’s horizontal pull will also increase, which can help dig the anchor deeper into the sea bottom. When the scope decreases, the anchor’s pull will become more vertical. This can cause your boat to disturb and dislodge your anchor, especially at the height of a wave or during high tide.

If the scope’s ratio is less than 3:1, you are at risk of giving away a significant amount of control. Remember to set your anchor at a 5:1 initially. Afterward, you may shorten the scope as needed.

Power Setting the Anchor

To ensure that your anchor is thoroughly buried into the sea bottom, it is best to “Power Set” it. When you start setting the anchor into place, begin to lower it slowly into the water. As the anchor begins to descend deeper into the bottom, slowly begin to increase your anchor load with your engine to make sure it is securely buried. Remember that if you back off at any speed, you might not give the anchor a chance to bury itself into the sea bottom and ensure anchoring. You can follow and mimic the force of the wind by using the engine’s thrust to set the anchor to a predetermined load. By matching your boat’s total maximum horsepower and hull type , you can determine to what extent your boat can “Power Set” your anchor.

Anchoring in Soft Mud Bottoms

If you are anchoring in a soft mud bottom, this will greatly reduce your holding power compared to harder soils or sands. If you encounter a problem setting your anchor in this environment, then try setting the anchor at a very short scope at first. This initial scope could be a 2:1 ratio. When the anchor begins to dig in and set, slowly increase the scope to a greater ratio. An example of this could be a 5:1 ratio. Then, try to power set the anchor.

Special “mud palms” can be installed on your anchor, and it is recommended that you permanently install these “mud palms” to set your anchor in any type of bottom.

Retrieving the Anchor

Start by slowly moving the boat into a position that directly hovers over the anchor, pulling in the line as you go. When you are directly above it, shorten the line on a cleat and slowly power backward to pull the anchor out of the bottom. Do not power forward since this will require way more energy and put heavy loads on the anchor and support system.

A Summary of Anchor Types: Choosing the Right Style for You!

Claw anchors.

The Claw Anchor is one of the most popular anchors among boaters in North America. This anchor is a dynamic anchor that performs well in many sea bottoms, including mud, sand, rock, and coral. It has more trouble digging into harder surfaces like clay and dense grass. It has a three-claw design and sets and resets easier than other anchors. On the other hand, it has a lower holding power per pound than other anchors.

The Wing and Plow Anchor

The Wing Anchor is a hinged anchor. The Plow Anchor also has a hinged design, but the greatest difference between the Plow and Wing is that the Wing is a one-piece design. The Plow Anchor is one of the most popular anchors among bluewater cruisers despite having low holding power. However, the hinged design makes it more responsive and durable to environmental elements.

Delta Anchor

This anchor is an excellent choice for anchors that are going to be used repeatedly during stormy conditions. The self-righting design allows it to set quickly and the ballasted tip ensures that it stays in place. The Delta anchor can be said to be the most popular anchors among boats today and is the standard for boat manufacturers . Regardless of whether you want a boat anchor for a sailboat or for a pontoon boat, be sure to choose this one.

The Fluke Anchor

The Fluke Anchor is also a popular choice among boaters. The Fluke Anchor is constructed of lightweight, high-strength aluminum. The Fluke Anchor performs well in mud and sand, perhaps better than any other style. On the other hand, if not in mud or sand, The Fluke Anchor is not the best performer.

The Plow Anchor with Roll Bar

There are several Plow Anchors with roll bars that are essentially variations on the plow style anchor. The Plow Anchors with roll bars are a lot sharper than traditional Plow styles. Since the roll bars create a distinct sharpness, they can penetrate the sea bottom much easier than other anchor styles. The roll bar also helps the anchor orient itself when setting. The only downside is that these anchors can be very expensive and difficult to store.

Grapnel and Small Anchors

The Grapnel Anchor is used for small boats such as Kayaks, Canoes, etc. It is a favorite among fishers and is compact and easy to store. Grapnel’s hook onto another object for holding power yields immense holding power but can create difficulty retrieving the anchor.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom Anchors are often used for mooring buoys permanently because of their extreme holding power that can often hold ten times its actual weight. Silt from the sea bottom builds up over these anchors and results in this extreme holding power. However, this anchor type is not useful in temporary anchoring situations and makes more sense for permanent mooring. The exception is smaller versions of the Mushroom that can be used for small boats and anchoring while fishing.

Anchor Materials

The most common anchor materials are mild steel, high-tensile steel, stainless steel, and aluminum. Most anchors are mild/high-tensile steel. High-tensile steel is about twice as strong as mild steel, but that is not to say that it has a higher holding power, just that it is stronger. These are not corrosion resistant and need to be galvanized to prevent rust. All anchors need to be galvanized and can be pre-galvanized to prevent erosion.

Once you identify your needs and what fits best for you and your boat, you will be able to safely anchor at any desired destination!

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Product Test: Heavyweight Cruising Anchors for Challenging Anchorages

Two roll-bar anchors and one bruce-style anchor face a battery of tests to see which sets the best..

One of a cruising anchors most important traits is its ability to set easily (and reset after a wind shift) in the widest possible variety of bottoms. For those who can carry extra large anchors, holding power, the normal parameter measured by anchor tests, is not as important as setting performance. Once set, an oversized anchor should easily have sufficient holding power. With that in mind, this comparison focuses not on ultimate holding power but the ability of the anchors to set quickly-even in difficult bottoms and with short scope-and to stay set when conditions change. Practical Sailor tested the rollbar-style Manson Supreme and the Rocna as well as the Bruce-inspired Manson Ray claw anchor. Testers looked at each anchors design and measurements, as well as its setting and veering performance on a frozen-sand beach covered with large rocks and on a sand/ mud beach. Practical Sailor encourages readers to weigh these results along with those of previous tests on more typical bottoms before selecting a primary anchor.

****

Photos by Evans Starzinger

One of most significant investments a sailor can make is in ground tackle. This is especially true for cruising sailors, who inevitably find themselves needing a good nights sleep in a less-than-perfect anchorage.

In extreme conditions, the working anchor must not only have good holding power, but set quickly and perform well in a variety of bottom conditions. Most anchor makers will specify a size and weight according to the boats size, but these tend to be optimistic. For serious voyaging, the right size working anchor is generally the biggest one that your boat, equipment, and crew can comfortably handle. At the very least, you should move up one size from what the manufacturer recommends.

Practical Sailor s most recent anchor tests (both in soft mud) were of new anchors in the January 2007 issue and adjustable anchors in the October 2006 issue. These anchors were primarily aimed at boats 40 feet and under. To compare the performance of heavy-weight anchors designed for bigger cruising boats, Practical Sailor turned to regular contributors and cruising veterans Evans Starzinger and Beth Leonard, who both have 85,000-plus bluewater miles-and plenty of experience with poor holding ground-under their belts.

Ashore and aboard their 47-foot Van de Stadt-designed sloop, Hawk , the pair spent several weeks testing three beefy, high-end anchors: the Rocna, the Manson Supreme, and the Manson Ray.

One of a cruising anchors most important traits is its ability to set easily (and reset after a wind shift) in the widest possible variety of bottoms. For those who can carry extra-large anchors, holding power, the normal parameter measured by anchor tests, is not as important as setting performance. Once set, an oversized anchor should easily have sufficient holding power.

With that in mind, this comparison focuses not on ultimate holding power but the ability of the anchors to set quickly-even in difficult bottoms and with short scope-and to stay set when conditions change. (See “How We Tested,” above.)

The evaluation was divided into two parts: beach testing and real-world comparisons in a wide range of holding grounds. This article focuses only on the beach tests, with the final long-term report coming next month in the December 2008 issue.

What We Tested

The field was limited to fixed-shank Bruce-style (claw) and roll-bar anchors from two manufacturers, Rocna Anchors and Manson Anchors. The size was specified at 110 pounds, enough heft to give Leonard and Starzinger plenty of confidence when trying to secure the 30,000-pound displacement hull in the challenging holding grounds of southern Chile.

From Manson, Practical Sailor tested the plow-style Manson Supreme and the Bruce-inspired Manson Ray. Manson makes all of its anchors out of fabricated, high-tensile steel at its New Zealand facilities. The anchors are Lloyds Register of Shipping approved.

Similar to the Rocna, the Supreme was designed to be fast- setting and have a high holding power. Users can attach the rode either to a single hole at the end of the shank, or to a slot running its full length. The slot is meant to make it easier to back the anchor out of rock and coral seabeds. This test featured the 121-pound galvanized Supreme, but its also available in stainless, and comes in a range of weights starting at 5 pounds. Manson recommends the 60-pound Supreme for a boat the size of Hawk .

The Ray is designed as a quick-set anchor-Manson claims it will set in only the length of the anchor itself-for use in sand and mud. It closely resembles the original, highly regarded Bruce, a cast anchor made in Scotland that is no longer available. Although Manson says the Ray “is not ideal for rock,” past experience and testing bear out that Bruce-style anchors are quite versatile and can perform as well as other designs in rocky bottoms.

The Ray is available in galvanized and stainless. The galvanized Ray is fabricated, not cast, allowing for more exact measurements and consistent steel quality, according to Manson. The stainless Ray is made with 316L stainless-steel plate. For a boat Hawk s size, Manson recommended a 55-pound Ray; Practical Sailor tested the 110-pounder.

Rocna Anchors manufactures its anchors in Canada and New Zealand and distributes them worldwide. The hot-dip galvanized Rocna, designed by Kiwi boatbuilder and cruiser Peter Smith, is touted as a fast-setting anchor. The company claims it will typically set within 3 feet.

It has all-steel construction with high-tensile steel in the shank and a small slot for attaching the rode. A stainless version of the anchor will be out this year.

The Rocna comes in a range of weights, starting at 9 pounds. The 28-pound Rocna fared well in our 2006 test (“Soft Mud Anchors $200 and Up,” April 2006). Rocna recommends about an 88-pound anchor for our test boat. The 121-pound Rocna Practical Sailor tested is rated for a 52- to 85-foot boat, depending on displacement.

One drawback to roll-bar anchors like the Supreme and Rocna is that they can be a challenge to stow. On some bow rollers, they simply will not fit. On Hawk s twin bow roller, the roll-bar anchors prevented the use of the adjacent roller, even for simply running an extra line. Stowing them in a hatch or inside the boat can also prove difficult.

Design Analysis

Physical measurements of anchors cannot produce definitive conclusions about anchor performance, but they offer clues to likely performance in different conditions.

Our analysis found that the measurements (tip weight, total weight, blade area, etc.) of the tested anchors suggest that the Rocna and Manson Supreme should provide similar holding power when fully buried in a good bottom. (See Value Guide.)

The Ray could have an edge in setting performance and in holding power in a common type of poor bottom (thin sand over rock/coral). One note of caution is that these measurements apply only to these particular size anchors, and scale effects may change the rank order in smaller anchors.

An anchors tip weight is the percent of the anchors total weight that the tip of the anchor puts on the sea bottom when the anchor is lying on its side. (The

position the anchor normally assumes when it lands on the bottom.) This is viewed as an important factor in determining an anchors setting ability. The Ray has the heaviest tip weight of the three anchors tested.

Blade area is the surface area of the anchor blade when the anchor is completely dug in. This is considered an important factor in determining an anchors holding power. The Rocna has the largest total blade area of those anchors tested.

Tip blade area is the surface area of the first 9 inches of the blade tip. A common poor-holding bottom type has a couple inches of sand or mud over a harder rock or coral surface. According to Starzinger and Leonard, its been their experience that only the first 9 inches or so of the tip will bury in these bottoms-and often only two of the three flukes in a Bruce design-so this measurement is an indication of holding power in this sort of poor anchoring bottom. Of those tested, the Ray has the largest blade area.

Beach Test Findings

All of the anchors Practical Sailor tested are large and of well-regarded design. Previous tests of these anchors conducted by other parties showed that all three will set easily and hold well in good sand or mud bottoms. Practical Sailor wanted to find out how they would perform in more difficult bottom conditions.

In their many years of cruising, Starzinger and Leonard estimate that 70 to 80 percent of the anchorages where they dropped the hook had good bottoms with deep sand or mud, and the remainder posed an anchor-setting or holding challenge (rock, coral, kelp, or too small/crowded/deep for proper scope). Most sailors will encounter these extreme conditions less frequently.

Given how bad the holding conditions were during the Practical Sailor rocky-bottom, long-scope, anchor-setting test (see “How We Tested,” page 35), expected the anchors to have difficulty setting and holding. However, all three performed quite well, setting within 11 to 13 feet and holding 1,000 pounds of load.

The Ray penetrated the rock and started digging into the sand in half the distance of the Rocna and the Supreme: The Ray dug in at 11.7 inches, while the Supreme and Rocna dug in at 31.2 inches and 35.1 inches, respectively. This is consistent with the assumptions made by analyzing the tip-weight measurements.

The Ray also took slightly less distance than the others to set and hold the 1,000-pound load, but the differences were not significant. The Ray did not roll upright, and thus only dug in one side fluke and half the main fluke, but it dug in the deepest and held the 1,000-pound load. The Rocna dug the biggest furrow.

All three of the anchors would have dug in deeper with a greater pulling force, and the holding power of all would easily have exceeded the pulling power of the windlass used in testing (3,500 pounds). A greater load would have rolled the Ray upright. Our short-scope testing (see photo, page 39) also shows that a more upward rode angle will roll the Ray upright.

Testers tried pulling several lighter anchors-an 88-pound Manson Supreme copy, 55- and 45-pound Deltas, and a 45-pound CQR-on this beach, and none dug in. They just skated over the rocks and frozen sand. This reinforced the importance of weight in challenging bottom conditions.

The roll-bar anchors Practical Sailor tested seemed to have difficulty where there were decent size loose rocks over a hard impenetrable rock/coral surface. This was apparent in the first meter of the beach test where the roll-bar anchors hopped among the rocks before the tips managed to penetrate the frozen sand.

The Ray tends to scoop the loose rocks between two of its flukes, pile them up, and then snag a bigger rock. The Rocna and Supreme blade points will skate between the loose rocks, throwing them off to either side, until the anchor can jam on a big rock.

Short Scope

In small, crowded, or deep anchorages, sailors occasionally have to anchor with shorter scope than they would prefer. In these situations, Leonard and Starzinger have used as little as 2:1 scope. To simulate this extreme for the evaluation, we

held a second pull test, this time on a different beach with a much-better-holding gravel and mud, using a 2:1 scope, with and without chain, and with a more upward pulling angle. We were surprised by the results.

Given the loose bottom conditions, we expected all the anchors to dig in easily and quickly. However, in the first pull, with only rope rode and no chain, only the Ray dug in. The Rocna and Supreme skated along the surface. The Rocna did dig a deeper trench than the Supreme, but neither showed any inclination to set.

In the second short-scope pull, we added 6 feet of chain to the rode. The Ray dug in almost immediately, as we had expected, but the Supreme took 6 feet to dig in, and the Rocna continued to drag. We repeated the Rocna pull three times, and it refused to bite each time.

Steve Bambury of Rocna Anchors said these results are not consistent with their experience and the results of other independent tests. He added that these have earned a solid reputation among experienced cruisers such as yacht designer and past Practical Sailor contributor Steve Dashew.

If anchoring with short scope is unavoidable, Rocna recommends, using 3:1 scope to allow the anchor to dig in, then shorten scope as needed once the anchor has properly set.

We can conclude two things from this 2:1 scope test. First, sufficient scope and chain are critical to getting an anchor to set and hold. If you have to set with short scope, its best to do so very slowly and gently to give the anchor tip an opportunity to angle down into the bottom. Second, the Ray performs much better in short-scope conditions than either of the two roll-bar anchors, and produced a set that would have been adequate for anything less than gale conditions.

The Ray, Rocna, and Supreme are all well-made anchors, and all showed good setting ability in difficult bottom conditions in our beach testing. The performances of the Rocna and Supreme were very similar, with the edge going to the Supreme in price and short-scope situations and the Rocna in hard sand and ultimate holding.

The Ray design offers faster and deeper setting in a variety of bad bottom conditions but, based on data from other sources, it has a lower maximum holding power. The Ray does make an excellent general-purpose anchor for serious cruisers likely to encounter such challenging conditions regularly; be sure to select a size that is one or two sizes larger than the equivalent roll-bar anchor. (Note: Based on experience and anecdotal evidence theyve collected, Leonard and Starzinger believe that Bruce-style anchors effectiveness-relative to other styles-may be diminished in sizes under 44 pounds.)

The Ray is quite expensive compared to other Bruce copies, but it is noteworthy as its forged shank construction would have prevented the casting cracks that destroyed Starzinger and Leonards previous 50-kilogram original Bruce.

Based on the measurements and beach testing, our initial-and tentative-recommendations are that the Practical Sailor Best Choice for difficult conditions (bad bottom/short scope) is the Manson Ray. The Supreme gets the Budget Buy nod as its performance was very close to the Rocna, but it is significantly less expensive.

For many, it will come down to stowage-which one will fit your bow roller or locker? In truth, you can’t go wrong with any of these big boys. While the Rocna and Manson Supremes short-scope setting ability fell short of the Ray, both have a hard-earned reputation in the field.

Practical Sailor encourages readers to weigh these results along with those of previous tests on more typical bottoms before selecting a primary anchor.

Large Cruising Anchors: The Big Boys Hit the Beach
Practical Sailor Value Guide: Heavyweight Anchors
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The 5 Best Boat Anchors of 2024

We narrowed down the best anchors for boats and kayaks

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A boat anchor is one of the most important accessories on any boat. Not only does a boat anchor hold the boat in one position for docking and fishing, but it can prevent a bad situation from becoming worse if the boat loses power. The most common type of anchor for most boats is a danforth or fluke anchor. This anchor features two sharp blades that stick into sandy or muddy bottoms. For rocky a bottom or structure, anglers choose a mushroom anchor with a wide, heavy head that holds the boat in place. Kayak and canoe anglers prefer a collapsable grapple anchor that folds up to save space. To pull the boat up on a sandbar and join the party, boaters prefer a spike anchor that sticks into the sand to keep the boat in place without causing a tripping hazard. No matter your activity, the best anchor is essential for docking, fishing, and safety.

Best for Sand: Fortress Danforth Anchor
Best for Rocky Bottom: Seachoice Grapnel Anchor
Best for Rivers: Seachoice 41500 River Anchor
Best for Mud : YakAttack Two-Piece ParkNPole
Best for Sandbars : Slide Anchor Spike

How We Picked the Best Boat Anchors

We compared various anchors based on their performance in specific categories. The most being how well the anchor holds the boat in place in wind, waves, and current. Next, we evaluated build quality by looking at materials and construction. An anchor takes a beating, so we favored corrosion-resistant metals and sturdy components and connections. We also considered what each anchor’s intended use was.

Best Boat Anchors: Reviews and Recommendations

Fortress danforth is the best boat anchor for sand.

Weight: 4.8 pounds
Dimensions: 25”X5”X3”
Materials: Anodized Aluminum
Light, anodized aluminum
Corrosion resistant
Sharpened flukes

A danforth or fluke anchor uses two sharp blades that will insert themselves into soft bottom. To work properly, a fluke anchor is attached to a length of chain and an anchor rope. As the anchor drags across the bottom, the heavy chain forces the anchor shaft down and pushes the flukes into the bottom. To remove the anchor, retrieve the rope until you can lift the anchor shaft up, and pull the flukes out of the bottom.

A common misconception is that a danforth anchor has to be heavy to hold the boat. But, since the flukes are what holds the boat in place, not the anchor weight, super strong and sharp flukes are what matters. The Fortress Anchor is made of anodized aluminum and magnesium, which is lighter and more corrosion-resistant than similar galvanized steel anchors. In tests, the Fortress Anchor was able to hold more weight with a smaller, lighter anchor. In addition to the lightest and toughest material, the Fortress Anchor uses sturdy construction to hold boats from 16 to 27 feet long in strong currents and heavy seas.

Seachoice grapnel is the best boat anchor for muddy and rocky bottom.

Weight: 1.5 pounds to 9 pounds
Dimensions: 4 ¾” x 6 ¾”
Materials: Galvanized iron
Folding flukes
Can also be used on rocky bottoms or in mud
Inexpensive
Galvanized iron can eventually rust

The Seachoice grapnel anchor features four flukes and a shaft with a locking ring. When it’s not in use, the four flukes fold flat against the shaft for easy storage in a small boat. On a soft or muddy bottom, unfold the flukes and lock them in place, so they stick in the bottom. To use the anchor on rocky or hard bottom, leave the flukes folded and use the weight of the anchor to hold the boat. Keeping the flukes folded prevents the anchor from getting stuck in rocks.

The Seachoice grapnel anchor has a clevis link to attach the anchor rope. For deeper water or a heavier boat, add a short length of light chain to help drive the flukes into the bottom. For a small kayak or canoe in light current, a 1.5-pound grapnel anchor will suffice. A skiff or dinghy requires a heavier nine-pound grapnel anchor. Grapnel anchors aren’t appropriate for anchoring a boat unattended, because the flukes can pull out of the bottom.

Seachoice 41500 is the best boat anchor for rivers.

Key Features

Weight: 12 pounds
Dimensions: 8”X9.5”
Materials: Vinyl coated iron
Heavy, vinyl coated iron
Galvanized shackle included
Modified mushroom anchor grips hard bottoms
Not corrosion resistant

For anchoring a small boat in swift water with a hard bottom, the weight and rounded shape of a mushroom anchor holds the bottom without getting stuck. The Seachoice 41500 River Anchor improves on the traditional mushroom anchor. The head of the mushroom is notched to better grip the bottom. The anchor is made of heavy iron with a vinyl coating to prevent corrosion.

Using Seachoice 41500 is easy. Just attach a rope to the included galvanized shackle and drop the anchor in the water. The anchor is designed to slip free under high pressure, making it the safest and best river anchor.

Best Kayak Anchor for Mud: YakAttack Two-Piece ParkNPole

YakAttack two-piece ParkNPole is the best boat anchor for kayaks.

Weight: 1.8 pounds
Dimensions: 8 feet long
Materials: Fiberglass and reinforced plastic
Two-piece for easy storage
Tough UV stabilized fiberglass
Hardened spike for anchoring
Takes up space on the deck

For anchoring in soft sand or mud, a stakeout pole is the best kayak anchor for mud and is quick and easy to deploy and retrieve. Simply stick the pole in the bottom and secure the boat with a short line. To retrieve the anchor, pull it from the mud and store it on the deck. YakAttack’s ParkNPole has been a standard for shallow-water anglers in saltwater and freshwater. The two-piece model makes it easier to store the pole inside a kayak or in an under-deck rod holder.

The fiberglass shaft is tough and light while providing flex to absorb the shock of the boat pulling against the pole. The hardened pointed tip easily pierces the bottom for a solid grip. Flip the ParkNPole over, and the wide, reinforced plastic foot makes it a convenient push pole. The advantage of the stakeout pole is stopping the boat quickly to make a cast. Then, pull up the stakeout pole, flip it over and push to the next spot.

Best for Sandbars: Slide Anchor Spike

Weight: 2 Pounds
Dimensions: 32” x 3.2” x 3.2”
Materials: Galvanized steel
Galvanized for corrosion resistance
High visibility for safety
Secure connections
Bungee cord secures driver

The Slide Anchor Spike is the best boat anchor for sandbars. It uses a heavy sliding handle to hammer the spike into the sand. Place the tip of the spike a few inches into the sand, then slide the tubular handle against the stop to drive the spike into the ground. Clip the anchor line to the lower ring on the spike and use the top ring for a buoy or flag to mark the spike’s location. Since the line and the spike are above ground level, Slide Anchor is easier for people to see, while providing a solid anchoring point for the boat.

What to Consider When Choosing a Boat Anchor

Before buying a boat anchor, consider how it will be used and the build quality. A boat anchor is one of the most important boating accessories. Your boat anchor is responsible for securing the boat in any condition. To choose the best boat anchor, consider these questions.

Location and Bottom Composition

Consider the bottom composition before choosing a boat anchor. Anchoring in soft sand or mud is best with a danforth or fluke anchor that digs into the bottom. To anchor in a river, a heavy mushroom anchor will hold the boat without getting stuck in the rocks. If you anchor often while fishing shallow water, a stakeout pole is a quick and effective way to anchor a small boat. A grapnel anchor is adjustable for either soft or hard bottom. Beaching the boat on a sandbar requires a spike-style anchor that sticks into the sand, so it is easier to see.

A large boat requires a danforth anchor with long, wide flukes and a long chain to ensure that the anchor lays on its side, allowing the flukes to dig into the bottom. The chain should be equal to the length of the boat and the same diameter as the anchor rope. Use rope ⅛-inch thick for every nine feet of boat, so ¼-inch rope will hold an 18-foot boat. Carry enough anchor line to equal at least three times the deepest water you plan to fish. Mushroom anchors come in sizes and weights to match smaller boats.

For kayaks and canoes, a grapnel anchor will secure the boat in heavy currents. A smaller grapnel may be appropriate for lakes and ponds, while rivers or tidal passes call for a larger, heavier anchor. Sand spikes come in small and large sizes to match the size of the boat. To anchor a large boat, use two spikes.

Look for an anchor that is corrosion-resistant. Aluminum will not rust, and stainless steel is very rust-resistant. Heavy anchors made of iron or steel should be galvanized or coated in vinyl. Connections and hinges should be oversized and sturdy to take a beating. Don’t forget shackles and links to connect the anchor to a chain or rope.

Q: How much does an anchor cost?

Anchor cost depends on the size and quality of the anchor. Larger anchors cost more than smaller ones, but size isn’t all that affects the cost. Boat anchors vary in build and materials. A more expensive anchor may have tougher construction to last longer. Boat anchors take a lot of abuse, so an anchor with corrosion-resistant materials and heavy-duty components will cost more. Part of boating is losing an anchor. Despite best efforts, broken lines and weakened components will lead to replacing an anchor, so keep that in mind when shopping.

Q: How big of an anchor do I need for my boat?

The size of an anchor correlates to the size of the boat and the conditions where the anchor will be used. A Danforth anchor is measured with holding power, not weight or size. Anchors are tested and rated by holding power to match the size of the boat and conditions. Also, consider the length and weight of the anchor chain and rope to match the boat size and weight. Mushroom anchors are rated by weight. A smaller boat under 16 feet long can be secured with a 12-pound anchor. Larger boats require a heavier anchor. For docking or heavy conditions, add a length of heavy chain equal to the length of the boat. Grapnel anchors are best for kayaks and canoes. Match the size of the anchor to the water depth and conditions. In shallow, calm water, a 1.5-pound anchor will work. In deeper water or swift current, use a 7-pound anchor. Use the lightest anchor required to reduce weight in the kayak or canoe.

Q: How much anchor line should you use if the water is 20 feet deep?

The anchor line and chain, called anchor rode, is as important as the anchor. The general rule is to use an anchor chain the same length as the boat. Then, pay out the anchor rode at least three times the depth of the water. For rough conditions, use more line to provide greater scope pulling on the anchor. At 10 feet of rode for every foot of depth, holding power is near 100%.

Best Boat Anchors: Final Thoughts

Best Kayak Anchor for Mud : YakAttack Two-Piece ParkNPole

The best boat anchors are strong and reliable to secure a boat fast, whether docking, fishing, or in an emergency. We chose the Fortress Anchor as the best overall because it is light, strong, very effective, and folds flat for storage.

Why Trust Us

For more than 125 years, Field & Stream has been providing readers with honest and authentic coverage of outdoor gear. Our writers and editors eat, sleep, and breathe the outdoors, and that passion comes through in our product reviews. You can count on F&S to keep you up to date on the best new gear. And when we write about a product—whether it’s a bass lure or a backpack—we cover the good and the bad, so you know exactly what to expect before you decide to make a purchase.

Following in his father's footsteps as an outdoor writer, Ric Burnley had big shoes to fill. After his dad, Eric, gave Ric his first job contributing a weekly fishing report to The Fisherman Magazine, the younger Burnley took to the profession of story-making and storytelling. Over the past two decades, Ric Burnley has entertained and educated the readers of Field & Stream, Outdoor Life, Salt Water Sportsman, Sport Fishing, and other major outdoor magazines.

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Fortress Selection Guide

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Boat anchor size recommendations are for boats of average windage and proportions in 30 knots of wind, average bottom conditions, and moderate protection from open seas. Remember that the loads in 42 knots of wind are twice as much as in 30 knots.

Use three-strand nylon rope, 6-12 ft (2-4 m) of chain and a minimum of 5:1 scope. Also, a minimum of 6 ft (2 m) of chain should be used for every 25 ft (8 m) of water depth. For storm conditions use an anchor one or two sizes larger.

Mobile users please scroll to the right to find your boat length and anchor model selection.

Note: Hard sand holding power figures above represent loads actually achieved on production Fortress and Guardian anchors under controlled horizontal pull conditions without dragging or resulting in disabling structural deformation.

Have questions? Check out our frequently asked questions page.

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An article from PeterSmith.net.nz , written by Peter Smith www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/independent-performance-testing.php

Independent Anchor Performance Testing

Published boat anchor testing is generally of poor quality. Much of it amounts to nothing better than noise: terrible test designs, absence of controls, lack of repeat trials, and commercial or even nationalist biases generate unhelpful data that confuse and distract. On this page is a collection of those few exceptions that manage to build an accurate and helpful picture of real world anchor performance.

Writers tend not to possess science or engineering backgrounds and lack understanding of what would constitute valid testing, much less reasonable analysis of the resulting data. Even if the publication boasts qualified personnel, testing of an acceptable standard is expensive and unlikely to ever become an activity a magazine will engage in. The three- or four-figure worth of a single article can never bring a financial return on the five- or six-figures of the necessary budget.

Commercial involvement with supposedly independent publications is a particularly insidious example of media failings. An example is a ‘test’ conducted in 2014 by Fortress Marine Anchors in the USA which was covered by a number of well-known publications. Without exception the write-ups included only cursory notes as to the testers’ commercial nature, glossed over as unimportant. Predictably, the results looked exactly as Fortress might prefer them, attending to both the championing of their own product and the disparagement of their most threatening marketplace competitors. In this case as always the testing methodology may be critiqued, such as a focus on a bottom type in the company’s favor; apples-to-oranges comparisons of aluminium to steel anchors, resulting in mismatched physical sizes; a pulling protocol designed to benefit their product rather than best simulate real world usage; and so on. In a follow-up in PassageMaker , author Nigel Calder debates test ‘witness’ and ex-West Marine corporate man Chuck Hawley, pointing out some of these issues and raising concerns based on discrepancies between the testing data and real world experience – Hawley doggedly maintains that the testing he witnessed was not rigged and that the results were credible. Similar claims were made by Practical Sailor , who took Fortress at their word and simply published supplied results without even bothering to send anyone. But the problem of any form of bias is very simple, and does not require deep arguments on methodology. In the world of science, where researching the facts of reality with a rigid impartiality is foundational, it is well understood how natural human biases in even the most neutral and competent experimentalist can totally invalidate otherwise carefully planned testing. Peer review will simply not accept results from research which has not taken great care to eliminate bias with basic techniques such as proper controls, randomization, and blind testing. All this before results are published by the mainstream media. The typical sports magazine staff and writers are unequipped, in terms of qualifications or scientific experience, to review a complicated test. And whether or not the cynical invite from the commercial party to ‘referee’ their testing is accepted, writers are expected to produce a pay-worthy draft that a magazine can dress up as useful to their readers. This alone is sufficient to introduce substantial bias on top of the existing commercial agenda. Such ‘independent’ witnesses, lacking scientific training, are bound to be misled. A clever salesman would rely on it. The publications involved in this kind of debacle allow, in their credulity or indolence, commercial agents to commandeer their reputation and do a tremendous disservice to their readers. The boating media needs to do a better job of maintaining impartiality.

While blemished, the picture is not universally bleak. The tests below manage to present credible data. For example: the West Marine testing, a product of the world’s largest marine retailer’s desire to test the anchors it distributes. Although obviously commercial, the testers at least uphold the appearance of brand-neutrality, and indeed their bestselling anchors (at the time) are those with the poorest results. A radically different example is John Knox’s work in Practical Boat Owner , a continuation of a long-time obsession with anchors – much more a labor of love than any mercenary effort by the magazine writer who fancies himself a research scientist for the day.

These tests are therefore overviewed here with an eye to their scientific credibility, a standard which leads to the rejection of a number of published articles. Tests are also restricted to those which include the Rocna or Vulcan, but have no connections to any anchor manufacturer.

Kippari March 2015

Kippari Magazine ”Ankkurit Testissä” March 2015

The Finns at Kippari (Skipper) conducted a small and simple comparison test on dry land, using an industrial sand and gravel pit. The substrate appeared consistent from location to location, which many other poorly controlled tests cannot match, although unfortunately it does not appear to have been realistically wet. Nevertheless the data for hard sand, where many contenders simply failed to set, is worthwhile, and in soft sand interesting differences are found too.

“The test’s top anchor for absolute grip and holding power” was the Rocna, although the magazine included Finnish retail pricing in their final consideration and slipped the New Zealand design down a spot as a consequence. They also considered dimensions and physical bulk of the anchors, with regard to bow roller fit. Only the pull data is reproduced here.

Kippari Magazine March 2015, Klaus Salkola, anchor test data

The results were not adjusted for the variance in mass between the anchor models tested, an irritating omission given there is a 20% variance between the lightest (10 kg) and the heaviest (12 kg) steel products, and a 47% variance if the aluminium Fortress is considered. The inclusion of the latter is always a problem for tests; the FX‑23 model chosen by Kippari is relatively large, and would weigh nearly 18 kg were the same design built from steel. Accordingly, the reader should really try to view the results on a size-for-size basis, especially if an anchor of different size to those tested here is required.

Voile Magazine May 2012

Voile Magazine «14 ancres sous haute tension» May 2012: Spade, Rocna, FOB Rock, Manson Supreme, Delta, Brake, Kobra 2, Buegel, SeaBlade, and Spoon

French magazine Voile has accrued a number of anchor tests to its name. Historically French products have been the focus, at the expense of other anchor types more common in the rest of the world. In this iteration the Rocna and a few other international brands were added to the list of contenders, which were tested on a “loose and loamy sand” seabed. The assistance of the French SNSM (analogous to the British RNLI) was employed, and it was one of their boats tasked with the pull testing.

Voile selected a total of fourteen anchors, and in their write-up and analysis of results separated them into three groups: “plate” anchors (symmetrical flat fluke types), “light” anchors (aluminium), and “plow” anchors (asymmetrical types). This last misnomer – less than half of those in the “plow” group were actually plows – may be forgiven as the writers have avoided the apples-to-oranges comparisons of different types and materials seen all too often in other tests. In the other categories, the light aluminium Spade and Fortress turned in good linear pull results but both failed physically (“twisted”) under the stress of the veering test.

This write-up did not include several of the traditional types usually seen, particularly the CQR and Bruce. The CQR was tested but would not reliably set and was excluded from the final results. The genuine Bruce is no longer manufactured but Voile tried to test the “Ray”, a knock off version by Manson, which also would not set and was similarly excluded from the tabulated data.

Test design

This test does suffer from an unfortunate tendency amongst magazines to measure loads whilst dragging the anchors, the testers apparently apathetic toward the notion that the primary function of an anchor is instead to stay where it was set. John Knox’s article in Practical Boat Owner (overviewed below) is an excellent counter-example of measuring the right properties in the right manner, which other publications could benefit from following.

Nevertheless, drag data of this sort is informative because, if the anchor is to drag, it is important that it continues to provide as much resistance as possible whilst doing so. When pulled beyond its yield, a good anchor will remain properly embedded rather than suddenly releasing, and should continue to bury down to where firmer substrate may provide a more secure holding.

Additionally, figures for “skewed holding”, or veered pulls, were measured by Voile to add to their conclusions. This data increases credibility and relevance to the real world where a general purpose anchor must do much more than simply provide good holding power in simple linear pulls.

Overviewed here are only the results for the “plow” group of asymmetrical general purpose anchors.

Voile dragged their anchors at an increasing velocity, measuring resistance at speeds from 0.1 knots to 0.4 knots. The latter was the penultimate speed, supposed to represent a dragging vessel in high winds or tide, and it is the figures for this that are charted in dark red in the graph below.

The results of the veered pulls are charted in yellow. This data is not normalized or adjusted for the varying sizes of the anchors.

Voile Magazine May 2012, François-Xavier de Crécy, anchor test data

While the “0.4 knots” pull data is not directly representative of the actual static holding power of the anchors, together with the veered pulls these results give a reasonable picture of relative anchor performance.

Practical Boat Owner (John Knox) August 2011

Practical Boat Owner Anchors On Test August 2011

Scotsman Professor John Knox has a history of anchor testing, write-ups of which have appeared in Practical Boat Owner before. Introducing this article, he describes his experience tenuously anchored to a CQR in the Inner Hebrides during a storm in 1988, and how this led to the testing of anchor types in order to best appraise performance.

Knox examined eight different anchor types, with the addition of multiple sizes of a few. He used tidal pools on sand flats on the west coast of Scotland, using a custom rig to exactly control pull forces and speeds.

Anchors ranged from small 5 kg (11 lb) to medium 15 kg (33 lb) examples. Unlike the dump-and-pull technique frequently used in other tests, Knox used a carefully designed rig powered by a winch and purchase system with a slightly elastic line. The anchors were pulled with intermittent pauses, allowing the candidate to rest and settle according to the pull maintained by the elasticity of the “rode”. This provided a figure for what Knox labels SHF (“Static Holding Force”). This process was repeated until the figures for SHF had leveled off and were judged unlikely to increase with further pulling – this final plateau dictated the anchor’s recorded holding power.

This methodology provides graphs of the anchor’s intermittently recorded SHF figures over time during each set, the shapes of which are also of direct interest. A poor design will give fluctuating and unstable SHF numbers – or an anchor that sets poorly and with shallow depth will quickly hit its plateau, while a good performer will show a steady rise stabilizing only at a relatively high force level.

Knox seems well aware of the various pitfalls of anchor testing, and has avoided many of them in this test. His pull figures were firstly normalized against the results for a particular anchor for each session, to account for variations specific to that day or seabed area. Consolidated results were then further analyzed on a weight-for-weight basis and presented as “efficiency” values. The smaller anchors of each type, where multiple weights were tested, were found to be less efficient that the larger versions; nonetheless the results are presented without further analysis.

The below chart shows both normalized holding power and the rated efficiency values.

Practical Boat Owner August 2011, John Knox, anchor test data

This weight-for-weight efficiency measure is a fair approach in principle but does favor anchors with reduced strength (thinner section profiles and the like resulting in lower weights for a larger fluke surface area). It also fails to account for manufacturing tolerances outputting a lighter or heavier sample for what is really the same nominal ‘size’. For example, the Rocna 15 tested is nominally 15 kg but measured by Knox at a conservative 16.2 kg, while its Spade S80 competitor with an equal listed mass was found to shortchange its owner at only 13.3 kg. These variances combine to favor the undersized anchor in results – unduly so, because while tolerances or wear of material on a used anchor may cause significant variation, the surface area of the fluke, which dictates performance, is not affected by these factors.

The below chart depicts the same data as above, but with the efficiency values re-calculated based on nominal sizes.

Practical Boat Owner August 2011, John Knox, anchor efficiencies by nominal size

Larger anchors may expect to gain higher efficiency ratings, and this is borne out in this test when two sizes of the same type are compared. This is most obvious in the small sizes selected; by simple virtue of size, 15 kg anchors may expect their fluke tips to find better quality substrates than their 4 or 6 kg little brothers which have to make do with only the very top layer of the seabed. More telling is when a smaller anchor is proven to be substantially more efficient than its larger competitor.

West Marine, SAIL , & Yachting Monthly 2006

West Marine anchor testing: the “Shana Rae”

The big American retail chain has conducted a number of anchor tests over the years, and 2006 saw it put together a series of trials on three different sand seabeds with no less than fourteen different anchor types. They used real world locations and a realistic rode make-up.

Brief summaries of the results were included in the 2007 and 2008 West Marine catalogs. Additionally, staff from magazines SAIL and Yachting Monthly were present and proceeded to publish their own write-ups of the testing. These write-ups were problematic with confused analyses of the data and outright contradiction of one another on a number of details, but SAIL provided a good overview of the results in a chart averaging holding power and peak resistance.

Anchors of approximately 15 kg (35 lb) were selected, mostly steel but unfortunately including a few with part or whole aluminium construction. The aluminium Fortress FX‑37 Danforth-type chosen is relatively large compared to the other anchors tested, a size that would weigh in at over 25 kg (55 lb) if its aluminium was swapped to steel. Aluminium is weaker than steel, especially when compared to high strength grades: no less than two Fortresses were damaged and put out of action during this testing.

The testers used a short 20′ (6 m) length of 5/16″ (8 mm) chain, coupled to 1″ (25 mm) nylon to make up the rest of the rode. Tests were conducted at scopes of 7:1, 5:1, and 3:1, by a suitably large motorboat permitted to run up a maximum force of 5,000 lb-force (2,270 kgf). Consistency and reliability of the contending anchors was measured by further varying the testing to cover three different locations with different variations on a theme of hard sand.

The ability of the anchors to deal with a variety of tough (hard to penetrate) bottoms was well examined in this test, and the results serve to show up magazine “tests” which do not conduct repeat trials. Some anchors gave high peak results during some trials, but let themselves down during others. Consistency is a critical element of any anchor’s performance.

This table contains the summary comments published by West Marine themselves. Charted data results are below.

Averaged results

SAIL published the below chart, which graphs three different metrics if applicable for each anchor. “Max before releasing” is the only figure presented for all (except two anchors which failed to set): this is the most important, averaged “holding power” or static resistance. “Max pull” is the peak resistance measured by the testers, either static (holding) or dynamic (dragging) – this figure should be higher than “Max before releasing”, as a good anchor will give increasing resistance as it is dragged beyond yield. The absence of this figure, where it was lower than the static holding power, does not tell a pleasant tale for that type.

SAIL Anchor Testing Analysis: Average of Peak Strain at All Locations

The above chart makes no analysis of efficiency on a weight-for-weight basis, and there is a lot of variance in size between the anchors tested. If the same data is weighted for anchor size then ranked in order of increasing “Max before releasing”, the picture looks like this:

West Marine & SAIL magazine anchor comparison testing, test of 14 boat anchors

Lastly, the magazines can be ignored, and the raw data released by West Marine may be analyzed directly. This chart shows the averaged “holding power” of all test pulls, a few of which were apparently ignored by the magazines. Only the original numbers are used (unweighted).

“Holding Power” Bill Springer, SAIL October 2006
“Ultimate Holding Power” Toby Hodges and Bill Springer, Yachting Monthly December 2006
“Anchor and Docking / The West Advisor”, West Marine Annual Catalog 2007–2008
“Anchors Aware! Anchors On Test” Professor John Knox Practical Boat Owner August 2011
« 14 ancres sous haute tension » François-Xavier de Crécy, Voile Magazine May 2012
”Ankkurit Testissä” Klaus Salkola Kippari March 2015
About the Manson Supreme Anchor , a Rocna look-alike – or why to avoid copies

Tired of anchors? Take a tour of some of the world’s best destinations…

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IMAGES

The Best Boat Anchor: 6 Anchor Types Explained
Anchor Selection Guide: How to Choose the Best Boat Anchor Type
The Best Boat Anchor: 6 Anchor Types Explained
Boat Anchoring Tips
18 Most Popular Sailboat Anchor Types
Ultra Anchor Size Guide

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Power Pole vs Talon vs Raptor
ULTRA Anchor (2019-) Review Video
SAILBOAT AT ANCHOR
Anchor Chain Locker
How to Pivot Your Boat with a Boat Anchor
X3 Anchor Stake Comparison

COMMENTS

Anchor Selection Guide: How to Choose the Best Boat Anchor Type
The Delta is arguably the most popular anchor on boats today, and is the standard anchor of choice used by most boat manufacturers. It has a good holding power per pound (about 50% more than the Bruce). Both the Delta and the CQR perform well in most bottoms, struggling the most in rock. Pros: Performs well in most conditions.
How to choose the right anchor
When an anchor is at rest in the upright position, the only points in contact with the ground should be the tip and the far end of the shank. The angle that the fluke makes with the3 shank contributes to penetration once the tip has entered the bottom: the optimum angle for this is about 35°. 4. Fluke shape.
Best anchors: 8 new generation designs suitable for every boat
Rocna Galvanised Anchor. This was one of the first of the new generation of ultra high holding power anchors and quickly gained much acclaim, despite an initially high price tag. The Rocna is well engineered and has an excellent reputation for digging in quickly and easily. Once set it then offers excellent holding.
7 Best Sailboat Anchors
7. Norestar Stainless Steel Delta/Wing Boat Sailing Anchor. (Highest Quality Anchor) One of the most important things when in the market for a good sailboat anchor is quality. Well, the Norestar doesn't disappoint on this front as it's manufactured using the highest quality stainless steel.
Top Anchors Tested
The Fortress staffers and Rachel Carson's skipper, Capt. Mike Hulme, picked out a broad testing area of mud/clay bottom in 26 feet of water.At a specific point (a datum), the deck crew placed each anchor overboard, and Hulme set off along a specific compass course (azimuth).When the scope reached 5:1, he proceeded another 100 feet and engaged position-keeping, jets and thruster keeping the ...
Boat Anchor Selection Guide: Choose the Perfect Type & Size
N/A. Source: Anchor sizing chart on Spade Anchor USA. You'll see a boat length of 53' puts us at 59ft. and a 55 pound galvanized anchor. But by vessel weight, for 54,000 lbs., the recommended weight is 99 pounds. So the larger of the two is 99 lbs., so that is the proper weight for this boat.
Top 10 Best Sailboat Anchors of 2024 • The Adventure Junkies
Best Sailboat Anchors of 2024. Brette DeVore. Sailing Gear. Updated on February 6, 2020. Stopping to explore nearby reefs and grab a quick bite of lunch, sailors often take for granted the safety and security an anchor provides. But if you've ever had to ride out a storm—or dragged anchor at night—you'll soon learn the importance in ...
Selecting the Right Anchor Size
Much to our surprise, the weight recommendations for the new designs, Rocna, Excel, Supreme, etc. are very similar to the weight recommendation for the older, traditional models, CQR, Delta, Bruce etc. In both cases, the recommendation for a 35-foot yacht is approximately a 30-pound anchor. The exceptions are aluminum anchors from Fortress and ...
12 Best Sailboat Anchors for Any Sailor
1. Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor. One of the best sailboat anchors out there today based on being the best-selling anchor for yachts and workboats goes to the Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor. As one of the pioneering brands for sailboat anchors, the Rocna Vulcan was able to transform from the original Rocna anchor to the most dependable, best ...
18 Most Popular Sailboat Anchor Types
One of the most popular types of anchors for sailboats today, the Rocna anchor is a very good choice for an anchor. It was originally designed in New Zealand in 2004 and has since taken the anchor industry by storm. By combining the best design feature from the Bugel and Spade anchors, it truly has set itself apart.
How to Select the Right Type of Anchor
Plow-shaped or grapnel-type anchors, with high structural strength to sustain the high point-loads, generally work the best. These anchors include the Claw, CQR, Delta, Rocna and Supreme. Shale, clay and grassy bottoms: Bottom types like these can pose a challenge to any type of anchor. For these types of bottoms, the weight of the anchor, more ...
The 5 Best Sailboat Anchors
The best overall sailboat anchor is the M1 Mantus anchor manufactured by the brand Mantus Marine in Texas, America and sold worldwide. ... Top Sailboat Anchors Comparison Table. Anchor Price Best For Anchor Sizes Sailboat Size Construction Holding Power Warranty; M1 Mantus: $180 - $3,000: Design, Ease of use: 8lbs - 175lbs:
How to Pick a Boat Anchor: The Guide to Types, Sizes & Weights
Fluke anchors have a rotating bar that connects the anchor to the line. Their forward-heavy profile allows the flukes to drive straight down into sand or mud. As line is laid out, the bar swivels into a horizontal position, providing good scope. Boat Size: 30 feet or less. Best For: Lakes, rivers, mud and sand.
Boat Anchor Types: A Complete Guide
Here are three different types of anchors and rules of thumb for the durability of an boat anchor. Lunch Hook: This anchor should hold a boat in a 15- knot breeze. Working Anchor: This anchor should hold up to 30-knots of wind. Storm Anchor: This anchor is for winds up to 42-knots of wind.
Product Test: Heavyweight Cruising Anchors for Challenging Anchorages
The Rocna comes in a range of weights, starting at 9 pounds. The 28-pound Rocna fared well in our 2006 test ("Soft Mud Anchors $200 and Up," April 2006). Rocna recommends about an 88-pound anchor for our test boat. The 121-pound Rocna Practical Sailor tested is rated for a 52- to 85-foot boat, depending on displacement.
Boating 101: How to Choose the Best Boat Anchor Type
The Delta is arguably the most popular anchor on boats today, and is the standard anchor of choice used by most boat manufacturers. It has a good holding power per pound (about 50% more than the Bruce). Both the Delta and the CQR perform well in most bottoms, struggling the most in rock. Pros: Performs well in most conditions.
10 Best Boat Anchors in 2024
The Better Boat Heavy Anchor Kit. The Better Boat Heavy Anchor Kit is an all-in-one anchoring solution for boats ranging from 20 to 32 feet. Its fluke-style design works well on silty, sandy, and muddy bottoms, making it great for lakes and rivers on jon boats, for example. The kit's galvanized steel components are durable and resist ...
Which Anchor?
There's no doubt that your anchor is one of the most important items on your boat and it's one of the most overlooked. There have been huge advances in ancho...
New Generation Anchors: Explained and Compared
The Bügel, developed in Germany by Rolf Kaczirek, is the first of the new generation anchors, and it pioneered a novel configuration involving a semi-circular roll-bar. The weight of the fluke rolls the anchor about the roll-bar, pivoting on the shank end. The Bügel is very primitive, consisting of: A straight bar shank. A roll-bar to turn ...
The 5 Best Boat Anchors of 2024
Best for Rivers: Seachoice 41500 River Anchor. Best Kayak Anchor for Mud: YakAttack Two-Piece ParkNPole. Best for Sandbars: Slide Anchor Spike. The best boat anchors are strong and reliable to ...
9 Best Boat Anchors
4. Airhead Complete Grapnel Anchor System. The 3.5lbs anchor system by Airhead makes a great choice for canoe, inflatable boat, sailboat, float tube, and personal watercraft owners. It features great holding capacity and you will find it useful with most seabeds, such as sand, mud, rock, and gravel.
Fortress Selection Guide
Fortress Selection Guide - Fortress Anchors. Boat anchor size recommendations are for boats of average windage and proportions in 30 knots of wind, average bottom conditions, and moderate protection from open seas. Remember that the loads in 42 knots of wind are twice as much as in 30 knots. Use three-strand nylon rope, 6-12 ft (2-4 m) of chain ...
Independent Anchor Performance Testing
The results were not adjusted for the variance in mass between the anchor models tested, an irritating omission given there is a 20% variance between the lightest (10 kg) and the heaviest (12 kg) steel products, and a 47% variance if the aluminium Fortress is considered. The inclusion of the latter is always a problem for tests; the FX‑23 ...

Anchor Selection Guide: How to Choose the Best Boat Anchor Type

Quick Anchor Style Summary

Video: Choosing an Anchor Type

Quick Summary Boat Anchor Recommendation

Boat Anchor Names: Trademarked Names and Generic Names

Bruce™ Claw Anchor

CQR™/Plow & Delta™/Wing Anchor

Danforth™/Fluke Anchor

Spade Anchors

Grapnel and Other Small Craft Anchors

Mushroom Anchors

Boat Anchor Material Types

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Boat Anchor Selection Guide: Choose the Perfect Type & Size

On this page:

Angle of attack provides holding power

Scope & chain provide angle and drag

Orientation of anchors

Good anchors will reset unnoticably

Boat weight partially determines drag force

In wind, boat length is more important

Galvanized steel anchors are cheap