iwc yacht club review

WATCH REVIEW IWC Portuguese Yacht Club

Iwc portuguese yacht club.

• beautiful and well-thought manufactured movement
• a sportswear look but refined
• good value for money
• the finishing of the movement is nice but can be enhanced
• a water resistance a bit to light
• was the “Yacht Club” writing necessary ?

Technical specifications

Editor's opinion 73/100

Emblematic to IWC with its sober and refined models, the Portuguese brand has enriched itself in 2010 with a new variation of “Yacht Club”. More massive and colorful, did the 2010 Portuguese watches give up their German harshness in order to become “fun” watches ?

A sporty and elegant style

We can first observe that the Yacht Club watches have gained stoutness : switching from 40,9mm to 45,5mm for 14,5mm thickness. Forgotten the shy chronographs , these Portuguese watches are designed to be noticed !

The thick rubber strap and the new crown pad are strengthening the “sport” style of this beauty. Some will see a concession to the fashion of body-built watches. But the Yacht Club remains harmonious. It has gained muscles without becoming overdeveloped.

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The polished finishing of the case is excellent.

The dial conserves the classic Portuguese DNA but has been enlivened with some touches of quite pleasant color and luminescent hands.

The navy atmosphere is subtly suggested with the indexes of the chronograph’s counter, which reminds a rudder. We can wonder why the designers thought it was useful to underline it by writing “Yacht Club” in the seconds index…

The movement: caliber IWC 89360

These novelties are quite pleasant, but the best is still to come. The new manufacture caliber 89360 in itself is a pretty good reason to be tempted by this watch !

There are some highlights of the IWC calibers (the Pellaton winding system, the anti-shock, visible column wheel) that are matched with an original architecture. The “Flyback chronograph” (you can settle it back to zero and start it again by pushing the push-button) counts the hours/minutes thanks to two concentric hands in order to preserve the traditional two-counter position of the Portuguese counters.

With a big diameter and quite thick, this movement is really nice looking with its well-hemstitched bridges : we feel like diving into the core of the mechanism. The decoration is really pleasant, even if the finishing remains a little “industrial” (because of the absence of chamfering in particular).

What to remember

More than a simple variation of the classic Portuguese watches, the Yacht Club is an entirely new model. With its high manufactured and high quality movement, also its dynamical looks, it has every elements to please those who think its older sister a little too wise.

With a price around 10.000 €, the first price is high but the watch making services are worth it. In this range of price, lots of concurrent feel satisfied with less manufactured caliber, even more or less optimized ETA caliber!

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A Smaller IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Still Looms Large

IWC tweaked the size of its sporty Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph — and now it’s even better than before.

By Jason Heaton

1 original photo

When Boston native Florentine Ariosto Jones arrived in Switzerland in the mid-1860s to set up a watch company based on the modern industrial techniques of the American watch industry, he found little welcome in Geneva. So he headed east to Schaffhausen, where he found a small community of watchmakers who built timepieces in the German tradition — less artisanal flourish, more overbuilt sturdiness — and a river to power a factory. It seemed an ideal place to put down stakes; Jones settled there, built workshops on the bank of the Rhine and called his new company the International Watch Company.

Throughout the 20th century, IWC watches evolved from its first sturdy pocketwatches to the pilot’s watches worn by both German and British air force flyers to groundbreaking dive watches and antimagnetic scientists’ timepieces. The overriding theme of all of these watches was rugged and innovative practicality. In the 1930s, some Portuguese watch retailers approached IWC with a request to build a handful of oversized watches with accurate pocket watch movements. These large wristwatches went against the trend of the day, which favored smaller diameters, but swimming against the tide was not unusual for IWC and the Portuguese went on to become perhaps IWC’s most recognizable and beloved watch line.

Any deeper and it dips into dive watch territory, a place no skipper wants to be during an afternoon on the water.

At the SIHH watch fair in January, IWC debuted a refresh of its Portugieser ( auf Deutsch, natürlich ) family of watches. Cases returned to traditional design cues, with more graceful lines and some vintage-inspired dials. New movements and complications were added, like a beautiful annual calendar and a halo timepiece, the grand complication. One piece carried over from the previous generation is the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, a decidedly sporty watch with a name that is a nod to both the historic Portugieser family and a 1970s IWC called the Yacht Club.

IWC has always been known for its oversized watches and the last iteration of the Yacht Club Chrono was no exception at a burly 45mm. But the new version received a slight tweak and now comes in at a more svelte 43.5mm, which doesn’t seem like a big change, but on the wrist it is a far better-proportioned and more comfortable watch. The movement inside is IWC’s innovative in-house 89365 calibre, with a healthy 68-hour power reserve and a combined hour/minute counter that makes elapsed time read-off intuitive and quick. With its seafaring name, it stands to reason that IWC fits the watch with a rubber strap and a screw-in crown, giving it a respectable 60 meters of water resistance. Any deeper and it dips into dive watch territory, a place no skipper wants to be during an afternoon on the water.

Since 2011, IWC has been the official timekeeper of the round-the-world sailing Volvo Ocean Race, and the Yacht Club Chronograph, the watch given to the team that sets the record for the fastest 24-hour time during the race. It is a fitting watch for this epic race, in name and design, though, bashing through 40-foot waves rounding Cape Horn, we might be inclined to stow it in our kit bag, given its $12,000 sticker price.

Related Topics

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 Review: A Timepiece of Elegance

by Thomas Jentzsch on June 26, 2023

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference: IW390502) is a timepiece that exudes elegance and sophistication. It is a watch that is both functional and stylish, making it a popular choice among watch enthusiasts and collectors. The Portugieser collection was first introduced by IWC in the 1930s, and since then, it has become one of the brand's most iconic and recognizable lines. The Yacht Club Chronograph is a modern interpretation of the classic Portugieser design, featuring a sleek and sporty look that is perfect for those who enjoy water sports and outdoor activities. In this review, we will take a closer look at the features and design of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, and explore why it is a must-have for any watch enthusiast.

Brand Summary

IWC is a luxury Swiss watch brand that has been around since 1868. The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a high-end timepiece that is designed for sailors and yachting enthusiasts. This watch features a sleek and stylish design, with a blue dial and silver hands. It also has a chronograph function, which allows the wearer to measure elapsed time. The watch is powered by an automatic movement and is water-resistant up to 60 meters. Overall, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a premium watch that combines style and functionality, making it a great choice for anyone who loves sailing or the ocean.

Get the full Technical Details –>

Watch Details

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference: IW390502) is a sophisticated and sporty timepiece that combines the elegance of the iconic Portugieser line with the functionality of a chronograph. Released in 2010, this model is part of the esteemed Portugieser collection, known for its timeless design and exceptional craftsmanship. With its nautical-inspired aesthetics and reliable performance, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 has gained popularity among watch enthusiasts and individuals who appreciate a versatile and stylish timepiece.

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is widely available and can be purchased at authorized IWC boutiques and selected retailers worldwide. Its availability and distribution make it easily accessible to those seeking a high-quality and prestigious timepiece.

Encased in a robust stainless steel case with a diameter of 43.5mm, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 exudes a sense of refinement and durability. The case is complemented by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, ensuring clear visibility of the dial while providing reliable protection against daily wear and tear.

Powering this exceptional timepiece is the precise and reliable IWC Caliber 89361 automatic movement. With a power reserve of approximately 68 hours, the watch ensures accurate timekeeping and convenience for the wearer. The movement can be admired through the transparent case back, showcasing the craftsmanship and attention to detail.

The dial of the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 features a clean and legible design, with applied silver hour markers and hands. The chronograph subdials at 6 and 12 o’clock provide additional functionality and add to the watch’s sporty appeal. The date window at 3 o’clock adds practicality to the watch’s functionality.

With a water resistance rating of 60 meters (6 bar), the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 offers versatility and durability for various water activities. It can withstand splashes, rain, and even swimming, but it is not suitable for diving or other water sports.

In terms of pricing, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is positioned in the higher end of the luxury watch market. Prices may vary depending on factors such as location and retailer, but prospective buyers can expect to invest between $10,000 and $15,000 USD for this exceptional timepiece.

In summary, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is a sophisticated and sporty watch that combines elegant design with exceptional functionality. Its widespread availability, combined with its competitive price range, makes it an attractive option for those seeking a high-quality and prestigious timepiece. With its stainless steel case, refined dial, and reliable movement, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 represents IWC’s commitment to creating watches that offer enduring style and exceptional performance. Whether you’re on land or at sea, this timepiece is a testament to IWC’s dedication to craftsmanship and luxury.

Key Features

• Stainless steel case
• Blue dial with white subdials
• Automatic movement
• 44.6mm case diameter
• Water-resistant up to 60 meters
• Chronograph function with flyback feature
• Date display at 3 o’clock
• Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Navy blue rubber strap with folding clasp
• Power reserve of 68 hours
• Stylish and sophisticated design
• High-quality materials and craftsmanship
• Reliable and accurate Swiss-made movement
• Chronograph function for precise timing
• Easy-to-read dial with clear markers and hands
• Comfortable and durable leather strap
• Great value for the price compared to other luxury watches
• Expensive price point
• Relatively large case size may not be suitable for all wrist sizes
• Water resistance rating of only 60 meters may not be sufficient for serious water activities
• Limited color options for the dial and strap
• May not appeal to those who prefer a more minimalist or understated design

Comparable Watches

When it comes to finding comparable watches to the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, there are a few brands that come to mind. One such brand is Omega, which offers the Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph as a viable alternative. This watch boasts a similar sporty aesthetic and features a chronograph function, as well as a date display and water resistance up to 600 meters.

Another brand that offers comparable watches is TAG Heuer, with their Aquaracer Chronograph being a popular choice. This watch also features a chronograph function and water resistance up to 300 meters, making it a great option for water sports enthusiasts. Additionally, the Aquaracer Chronograph has a sleek and modern design that is sure to turn heads.

Finally, Breitling offers the Superocean Heritage Chronograph as a comparable watch to the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph. This watch features a similar nautical-inspired design and boasts water resistance up to 200 meters. It also has a chronograph function and a date display, making it a practical and stylish choice for any occasion.

Ultimately, when comparing watches to the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, it is important to consider factors such as design, functionality, and water resistance in order to find the best fit for your needs.

Watch Collectors Opinions

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference: IW390502) has received generally positive reviews from watch collectors and reviewers. One of the most notable features of this timepiece is its elegant and sophisticated design, which is reminiscent of classic sailing watches. Many collectors have praised the watch's attention to detail, such as the polished and brushed stainless steel case and the blue dial with contrasting white sub-dials, which give the watch a timeless and elegant look.

Another aspect of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph that has received praise is its impressive functionality. The watch features a chronograph function that is accurate and easy to use, as well as a date display and a flyback function that allows the wearer to reset the chronograph without stopping it first. Additionally, the watch is water-resistant up to 60 meters, making it a practical choice for those who enjoy water sports or spending time on boats.

Overall, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph has been well-received by watch collectors and reviewers alike. Its combination of classic design and modern functionality make it a versatile and stylish timepiece that is sure to appeal to a wide range of collectors. Whether you're a seasoned watch enthusiast or a newcomer to the hobby, this watch is definitely worth considering for your collection.

In conclusion, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference: IW390502) is a remarkable timepiece that showcases the brand's commitment to quality and craftsmanship. Its elegant design, exceptional functionality, and reliable performance make it a versatile and stylish choice for watch enthusiasts and individuals who appreciate luxury and prestige.

With its nautical-inspired aesthetics and sporty appeal, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is a standout among the esteemed Portugieser collection. Its availability and distribution worldwide make it easily accessible to those seeking a high-quality and prestigious timepiece.

The watch's robust stainless steel case, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and precise automatic movement ensure durability, visibility, and accuracy. The clean and legible dial with chronograph subdials and date window adds practicality and functionality to the watch's design.

Although positioned in the higher end of the luxury watch market, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is a worthwhile investment for those seeking a timeless and exceptional timepiece. Its enduring style and exceptional performance represent IWC's dedication to creating watches that stand the test of time.

Overall, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is a testament to the brand's commitment to craftsmanship and luxury. Whether you're on land or at sea, this watch is a stylish and reliable companion that is sure to impress.

Q: What sets the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) apart from other sports chronograph watches? A: The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) stands out with its elegant and sophisticated design combined with its robust sports chronograph functionality. Its nautical-inspired elements, such as the bold blue dial, regatta countdown feature, and water resistance, make it a perfect companion for sailing and water activities.

Q: Is the strap of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) interchangeable? Can I switch it to a different style or material? A: Yes, the strap of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) is interchangeable, offering versatility and customization options. You can easily swap the original strap for a different style or material, such as a rubber strap or a fabric NATO strap, allowing you to adapt the watch to various occasions and preferences.

Q: Does the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) feature a flyback chronograph function? A: Absolutely! The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) includes a flyback chronograph function, allowing you to quickly reset and restart the chronograph with a single push of a button. This feature is particularly useful for timing multiple events or laps without having to stop and reset the chronograph each time.

Q: Can the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) be worn for swimming and diving? A: The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) has a water resistance rating of 60 meters (200 feet), making it suitable for recreational swimming and water activities. However, it is not designed for professional diving. Its water resistance ensures the watch’s durability and protection against water-related exposure.

Q: What materials are used in the construction of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502)? A: The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) features a stainless steel case that provides durability and a refined appearance. The watch also incorporates a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, protecting the dial from daily wear and tear. These high-quality materials contribute to the watch’s overall quality and longevity.

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Hands-On Debut: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club With New Moon & Tide Complication

In this, the year of our Portugieser 2020, IWC also just released some new Portugieser Yacht Club watches as part of Watches & Wonders 2020 . The Yacht Club has always been an interesting sub-category of the Portugieser, intended to be a sportier breed with features like rubber strap and lume. So far, IWC has only produced the Yacht Club in a flyback chronograph, but this year they’ve added a new model that boasts a new complication for the brand, as well, in the form of a Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide model that has a moon phase and a new tide-tracking complication, which I believe is technically a Mareoscope.

The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide is debuting in just one variant, but it’s close to universally attractive, coming in a red gold case with brilliant blue dial with matching gold-plated hands and indices. At 12 o’clock, you can see the double moon phase display that shows Spring tides (which happen during full and new moons) and neap tides. At 6 o’clock is the subdial showing the anticipated times for high or low tide. IWC paid attention to the details here, with guilloché work, gold accents, and an applied gold plate around the circumference of the 6 o’clock subdial. As far as legibility goes, there is double-sided AR coating on the convex sapphire crystal, something I always appreciate.

It takes 24 hours and 48 minutes for the earth and moon to be in the same position, meaning that the time between two high tides is always 12 hours and 24 minutes. To measure the tides, IWC added a 49-part module to its 82835 calibre movement. Installing a three-cogged reducing gear to the hour pinion slows down the rotation of the tidal discs, allowing the disc to rotate around its axis every 14.76 days. Note that the time of the next tide is always approximate due to the fact that the discs are continually moving. So, if you’re checking at 10 o’clock AM and the indicator points to 12 o’clock, the tide will actually be slightly after 12. This discrepancy comes out to 10 minutes over 100 years.

It’s an uncommon complication on a mechanical watch, and I can only think of the Corum Admiral with a tide complication, a vintage Eberhard chronograph, and the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia from 2017 that include it. I do know that Sinn, as well as some vintage Heuers, have a less robust version of a tide complication.

Visible through the caseback of the IWC Yacht Club Moon & Tide, the 82835 calibre operates at 28,800 vph and has a 60-hour power reserve.

The red gold case measures 44.6mm-wide and 14.4mm-thick, with a water resistance of 30M, so wear it at the Yacht and/or Club but leave it out of the pool. IWC has added a new filigree bezel matched with a flat casing ring which help make for a pretty attractive-looking case that avoids being generic. And at 14.4mm-thick, the bezel adds a nice framing that ameliorates potential chunkiness.

While IWC introduced a bracelet to the Yacht Club Chronograph, the Moon & Tide comes on a blue rubber and textile strap that the collection has become associated with. Of course, the buckle matches the red gold case here.

The IWC Portugieser Moon & Tide is a cool and idiosyncratic piece that is marketed to a very, very niche type of buyer. The tide indicator is a difficult complication to pull off in a mechanical watch, which is why you rarely see it. For that, you have to give IWC serious credit. A gold watch with excellent finishing and a new intricately elaborate complication, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide is priced at $34,000 USD . You can learn more at iwc.com .

THE COLLECTIVE

European Watch Company – Est. 1993

Sailing Away: The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon and Tide Reference IW344001

Published by samuel colchamiro.

View all posts by Samuel Colchamiro

IWC’s Portugieser line of watches has always been recognized as some of the best everyday watches. The model line brings classic layout to a sporty case dimension to form a sort of hybrid timepiece that is equally comfortable in many environments. The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon and Tide, reference IW344001 represents one of the latest additions to the Portugieser family, contributing new complications to the celebrated model line.

The IWC Portugieser collection was introduced in 1939 with the reference 325. Two Portuguese businessmen, Rodrigues and Antonio Teixeira, approached International Watch Company, proposing the construction of a stainless steel watch with marine chronometer precision. Subsequently, the reference 325 was born. Then considered a robust sports piece, the 325 was produced into the 50s, when the output began to sharply decrease for a variety of business related reasons.

Interestingly, IWC made many extra cases for the 325 which remained unused by the end of production. In the 1970’s, a Swiss retailer requested that IWC make a series of pieces utilizing the original cases that remained. The brand agreed, maintaining the original styling of the 325 but updating the movement to the caliber 982, which was significantly more refined than the caliber 98 of old, which had been better suited for a pocket watch than a wrist watch. After the success of this run, IWC ran a series of production runs for different European markets, including in 1979 for Germany and a 1993 limited edition in honor of the 125th anniversary of IWC. The 325 captures an essential portion of watchmaking history— the transition from pocket watches to wrist watches. Pieces like the 325 demonstrated the overall movement of the industry away from large pocket watches and towards wrist watches that provided the same chronometric precision and complication. 

Since the Portugieser’s rebirth, the model line has exploded into arguably the brand’s most recognizable design (up there alongside the Pilot models). In 2020, IWC launched the model we are covering today, the Yacht Club Moon and Tide reference IW344001 in 5n red gold. 

Design Details

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon and Tide, reference IW344001, is an interesting amalgamation of elements. Carrying the history of the Portugieser model line, with the sporty sizing of 44mm, strong lug presentation, and crown guards, the piece is simultaneously quite refined in some of its finishing details. Fashioned from solid gold with gold hands and applied indices, the piece is reminiscent of say the Rolex Submariner in yellow gold — it’s a robust design and history, but a luxury set of appointments and finishes. This versatility is both an attribute and a detractor depending on your preferences. 

Most interesting with this model is the unique combination of complications present on the piece. Displaying the moonphase in both the northern and southern hemispheres, and a low/ high tide indicator, the piece is the perfect companion for a mariner who enjoys mechanical complications. The strap is incredibly solid, made to resemble a rope texture (yet another nod to sailing), and is seamlessly custom integrated to the case. The strap is outfitted with a deployant clasp, an attribute that is particularly helpful on heavier watches like the Yacht Club. The case flanks are brushed and contrast with a polished bezel. The brushed finish continues to the sides of the lugs, with the dial side of the lugs also receiving high polish. IWC’s dial is a rich blue sunburst that adds to the warmth of the red gold case and further accentuates the nautical theme of the piece. 

Beyond the complications and adaptations made to accommodate them, the piece maintains the identity of earlier Portugieser models, with classic leaf-style hands (lumed in this case), arabic numerals, and large dial alongside a minimalist bezel. This design formula helped make the Portugieser a success in the past, and continues to attract a diverse collector pool in the modern era. 

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Inner Workings

IWC’s Moon and Tide reference IW344001 is powered by the automatic winding caliber 82835. The 82835 is well spec’d, with 60 hours of power reserve, but brings a considerable feature that many remain wholly unaware of: the Pellaton winding system. Developed by Albert Pellaton, the technical director of IWC until 1966, the unique mechanism uses a series of pawls to transmit the energy from the rotor to the mainspring. The most immediate benefit of the system is significantly greater resilience against shocks and vibrations, interference that can hurt the delicate gear train. It is always exciting to own a piece that incorporates a key development of that brand’s history. Owning an IWC with the Pellaton is analogous to a Breguet watch with a tourbillon— it’s special. 

IWC chose to skeletonize the bridge structure on the movement side in order to provide greater visibility into the componentry of the movement. This is certainly a more obscure method of skeletonization than say a skeleton dial, but it is quite an interesting approach that yields practically the same results without interfering with the dial side of the piece. Skeleton watches are polarizing — some love them, some hate them — but a skeleton movement doesn’t drastically impact the overall presentation of the watch when the dial is unaffected. 

The automatic winding rotor is inlaid with a rose gold medallion bearing the IWC branding. In equally sophisticated fashion, the base of the caliber is made from brass, consistent with tradition. The piece includes hacking seconds and IWC’s proprietary shock absorption system.

Versus the Competition

The most natural alternatives to the Yacht Club Moon and Tide reference IW344001 would be both of Rolex’s Yacht Master model lines. Fashioned from Rose Gold (options are available in white gold as well), the Yacht Master reference 126655 confers the same mix of precious metal and sports spec mentioned earlier. The Yacht Master is likely the archetypical representation of a luxury yachting watch.

Alongside the Yacht Master, the Yacht Master II is an equally common option. Also made from solid gold, the Yacht Master II provides a regatta timer chronograph with countdown mechanism. If you plan on timing races, this watch is the one for you. Of course, the IWC Yacht Club affords an entirely different set of complications, but if you are seeking out a recognizable regatta timer, this is the model to go for. 

For an entirely different take on the regatta timer, consider Richard Mille’s 50 piece limited edition RM 60-01 “St. Barth” . It’s a flyback chronograph with UTC function and 50 hours of power reserve. Made from titanium, this watch is nothing like the others, but is equally interesting, as one of RM’s only watches not to use the typical tonneau case shape. 

Personality

The collector that appreciates this type of watch likely enjoys sailing and/ or yachting. Some will actually use the complications present, exploiting the high and low tide indications as well as the moon phase in different hemispheres to help in navigational decisions. Seeing as most sophisticated modern ships provide this information equally, if not, more accurately, it is more likely that this watch is appreciated more for its ties to the nautical world than for its practical utility as a tool. 

Marine associations aside, the piece is equally wearable and interesting for a complete outsider. If you like larger wrist watches or obscure complications, the rose gold 44mm timepiece is quite charming on its own. 

Final Thoughts

The IWC Portugieser is one of the most successful design languages in the industry. Since its introduction, the Portugieser collection has grown to include a variety of complications, from chronographs, to perpetual calendars, to minute repeaters, to annual calendars. Each watch has its own character, but unique complications such as high and low tide indication and dual moon phases are the types of elements that watch collectors obsess over. Even if the complication is never used, the knowledge that a mechanical solution has been created to address the need for such information is the underlying philosophy that keeps collectors engaged and enthusiastic about watchmaking in the first place. 

See More of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon and Tide Reference IW344001

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Gentleman Sailor: Testing the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

11 Jun 2022

Watchtime Usa

Contributing Writer

The new IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a watch you can wear with confidence anywhere at the marina. A first glance shows that the third generation of the sportiest Portugieser model, our test watch, is designed to be both a nautical timepiece and a luxury accessory. The first impression of this IWC diving watch is confirmed upon closer inspection of its polished and satin-finish case, sunburst blue dial and brightly polished hands. Every component is flawlessly finished and worthy to be part of the supremely elegant Portugieser collection. 

For the first time in its 10-year history, this Portugieser Yacht Club boasts a steel bracelet rather than a rubber or leather strap — a sturdy but elegant IWC steel bracelet with brushed outer links and polished inner links. Shortening the bracelet involves simply pressing a button on the back of each row of sturdy links to remove it. Unlike simpler bracelet designs, using screws or hammering is not needed. 

Inside the safety folding clasp of this IWC  diving watch, there is also a quick extension piece that quickly and easily lengthens the bracelet by up to 7 mm.  Pressing the polished ‘IWC’ button on the outer bar of the clasp extends the bracelet in seven increments — without ever removing the watch from your wrist. Two safety buttons round out the sturdy and well-designed folding clasp. 

Detailed Modifications 

In addition to the bracelet, the dial has also been updated. The central chronograph hand is now steel-grey instead of red, and the date window has been shifted from the 3 o’clock position to the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Both changes enhance the elegance of the Yacht Club and were well received by our editorial staff. 

The elegant impression is diminished, however, by the enlargement of the already considerable stainless-steel case from 43.5 mm to 44.6 mm.  Our editorial staff admitted that no one among them had a wrist to match its substantial dimensions. 

Even so, the large, heavy watch is quite comfortable to wear thanks to ergonomically shaped sloping lugs and a supple steel bracelet. Unfortunately, the flexibility and adjustability of the IWC’s bracelet results in relatively large gaps  between the links, which can catch and pull hair. 

Proven Technology 

Components taken from earlier generations of the Yacht Club include the sturdy and powerful in-house movement, Calibre 89361, with many excellent features like a 68-hour power reserve; a traditional column-wheel control mechanism; the brand’s own exceptionally efficient Pellaton dual-pawl winding system; a free-sprung, temperature-resistant Glucydur balance wheel; and a flyback function for the direct restarting of the running chronograph. It can also show off beautiful decorative finishes, gold-enhanced engraving and a gold IWC medallion on the skeletonised oscillating rotor.

Another feature of the in-house movement of  IWC diving watch  is the combined 12-hour and 60-minute counter in the upper half of the dial, which is intended to show elapsed time intuitively, as on a clock. The combined counter is too small for everyday use, however, and its markings are too fine to read elapsed time to the minute quickly and easily. The chronograph seconds track around the dial is also extremely fine, and the central chronograph seconds hand is insufficiently long to fully reach it. In sum, it’s a mixed bag, with clearly legible time and date, and elapsed time that is much more difficult to read. 

Accurate Rate 

Our rate test revealed more about the Swiss movement. The electronic timing machine showed a negligibly small daily rate of +0.8 seconds, a maximum deviation between the positions of only 4 seconds and almost the same values when the chronograph is engaged. A two-week wearing test confirmed the small daily deviation with values between zero and +2 seconds — making our test watch a reliable partner for everyday use. 

In addition to the movement, another feature of the Yacht Club that hasn’t changed arouses mixed feelings — the pressure resistance of six bar that corresponds to water pressure at a depth of 60 metres. Although this may sound like a lot at first, the water resistance as it is tested under laboratory conditions is rather low for a nautical luxury sports watch linked to the world of sailing. Coming in contact with spray or waves means a watch should be resistant to at least 10 bar or 100 metres to ensure a certain degree of security in a variety of different environments. And even though this still isn’t a lot, it is the current standard for any water sports watch not explicitly designed for  diving . 

Advice for boat owners is simply this: It’s better to wear this watch in the evening, below deck, or to dinner at the marina, and either take it easy onboard during the day or rely on a sports watch that is clearly defined as such. The new  Portugieser  Yacht Club Chronograph is well equipped for normal everyday wear and light sports activities — and is the perfect gentleman sailor for social events on or below deck.

This story first appeared in WatchTime US, and was then carried in WatchTime India. To subscribe, click  here .

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Introducing The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition 'Orlebar Brown'

Just in time for summer, a new sport watch and resort wear collection..

This year at IWC has been all about the refreshed Portugieser line of nautically inspired timepieces, which harken back to an important wristwatch made by IWC that used a large and accurate pocket watch movement. Today, we have a special edition of the sporty Portugieser Yacht Club to mark a new partnership between IWC and the British swimwear brand Orlebar Brown. 

Orlebar Brown was founded after its Creative Director, Adam Brown, detected a disconnect between what typically well-dressed guys wear socializing and what they tend to put on when they go to the pool. While changing from a pair of swim trunks into something more appropriate for lunch, a light went on, and Brown realized he wanted a pair that would look great away from the pool too. When you look at a pair of Orlebar Brown swim trunks, you can see how traditional tailoring influences their construction. Side tab adjusters and a four-part shaped waistband keep things refined, fresh, and stylish when heading from an afternoon at the pool out to drinks with friends. Though the company's swimwear collections are regularly refreshed on a seasonal basis, each suit comes with a five-year guarantee. They're swim trunks made to look great and to last.

Earlier this year, IWC dropped three main line models as part of its 2020 focus on the Portugieser line. Aesthetically, the new special edition version bridges the designs of the blue dial and silver-plated dial variations that we covered back in April. It does this while dispensing with the stainless steel bracelet in favor of the rubber strap with co-branded buckle seen above.

A white toweling blazer with blue piping from the new Orlebar Brown x IWC capsule collection.

The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown" is being launched right in time for summer, alongside Orlebar Brown's new nine-piece resort wear capsule collection, designed with IWC. With its nautically influenced design, rubber strap, and custom co-branded buckle (which is fashioned after an Orlebar Brown side tab adjuster), this feels like a fun twist on a perennial favorite from the IWC Portugieser collection.

One of my favorite things about IWC's cal. 89361 flyback chronograph movement is its impact on the display. It allows for a clean and symmetrical two sub-dial layout while integrating chronograph hours and minutes into the upper sub-dial and reserving the lower one for a small hacking seconds. Usually, a chronograph would need three subdials to convey this much information. 

The Portugieser is, of course, a watch whose formidable size is one of its most distinctive design elements, and this watch is certainly a Portugieser in that regard. At nearly 45mm in diameter, it could be a bit overwhelming to those who only wear watches on the smaller end of the spectrum. Still, it has a very classic design, and the fact that it's a sporty chronograph on a rubber strap makes me think that this could be a pretty killer watch for these current warmer months.

Brand: IWC Model: Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown" Reference Number: IW390704

Diameter: 44.6mm Thickness: 14.4mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Blue and silver-plated dial Indexes: Rhodium-plated appliques Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 6 bar Strap/Bracelet: Blue rubber strap with textile inlay

Caliber: IWC 89361 Functions: Hours, minutes, small hacking seconds, flyback chronograph with chronograph hours and minutes in sub-dial at 12 o'clock, date Power Reserve: 68 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 38

Price: $12,500 Availability: July 2020

For more on the watch, click here , and for more on the capsule collection, click here.

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The Updated IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide, the First IWC with a Silicon Hairspring

For the first time, iwc schaffhausen relies on innovative silicon material in one of its manufacture movements..

This year, IWC brings the emblematic Portugieser collection under the spotlight, introducing several stunning new additions to the collection, including the impressive Eternal Calendar and updates to several iconic models, such as the chronograph and the 7-day Automatic . On the occasion of Watches and Wonders Shanghai, the brand unveils a new version of its Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide . Now available in steel with an obsidian black dial, this sportier model debuts an updated movement featuring a silicon hairspring for the first time at IWC.

Originally presented in 2020, the gold Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide introduced a complication that could not be more appropriate for the nautical-themed “Yacht Club” sub-collection. The original, specific functionality of the model relies on two sub-counters linked to moon phases and tide calculations.  

The sub-dial at 6 o’clock displays the expected times for the next high and low tides. The interval between two high tides is consistently 12 hours and 24 minutes. After an initial calibration (via the crown) using tide tables for a specific location, the indicator remains highly accurate, with a deviation of only 10 minutes over 100 years.

The double moon phase display at 12 o’clock, featuring IWC’s signature double moon for both hemispheres, has been enhanced to indicate spring and neap tides. This provides valuable information about the tide’s strength. Spring tides, which bring particularly high water levels, occur during the full moon and new moon phases.

This new iteration of the Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide introduces a more modern, sportier aesthetic to the model. Now crafted in steel, the case is still 44.6mm in diameter but is now water-resistant to 100m. The Obsidian Black dial is subtly enhanced with red and blue accents, adding a dynamic touch to the overall design.

One of the key upgrades is related to the movement powering these two complications. The new calibre 82836, an evolution of the 82835, marks IWC’s first use of a silicon hairspring. Operating at 4Hz, the balance is visible through the exhibition caseback. The automatic winding mechanism employs a Pellaton system, enhanced with virtually wear-free ceramic components, and builds up a power reserve of 60 hours in the mainspring.

Although the brand hasn’t provided further details, this first model to feature a  silicon hairspring is likely not the last. While opinions on modern silicon hairsprings vary, this material offers undeniable technical advantages. This synthetic material is thermally stable, non-magnetic, lightweight, durable, and ideal for crafting hairsprings that outperform those made from traditional metal alloys. Silicon hairsprings have been around for about 20 years, initially restricted to a few brands by a patent held by CSEM as part of a collaboration between the Swatch Group, Patek Philippe, and Rolex (plus Ulysse Nardin). With the patent now expired, and despite new patents being filed, it was expected that more brands would start using silicon hairsprings. For more details, check out our article here .

The steel IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide (reference IW344002) is presented on a stainless steel bracelet with brushed H-links and polished centre links. A pair of pushers release its folding buckle and features a fine-adjustment system. The price is set at CHF 22,000 .

For more information, please visit www.iwc.com .

Technical specifications – IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide Stainless Steel

2 responses.

Good luck with an almost 45mm watch in this day and age. 41-42mm would be much nicer in my very personal opinion and much closer to the sweet spot of 40-42mm for a sports or sporty watch. 13.4mm height is very good for the complications this watch offers!

Size and price aside, this watch looks GOOD.

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Review IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

IWC Schaffhausen  and  Orlebar Brown have announced back in July their collaboration piece, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” . Due to the travelling and general restriction imposed by the infamous COVID19, I have seen the watch in the metal just at the end of August. Even if the summer is over, the “Orlebar Brown” Portugieser Yacht Club deserves to be presented – a lovely addition in the Portugieser Collection and a nice collaboration. 

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

I loved this watch from its digital launch. So I was very happy to finally get to see it at IWC Geneva Boutique during the Geneva Watch Days. The watch looks much better in the metal than the pictures reveal so if you are interested, I recommend to see it live.

Portugieser at heart, Portugieser in the look

The Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is one of those more special Portugieser – while keeping the known general aspects, some details are personalised by the Orlebar Brown collaboration.

The watch comes in a large 44.6 mm stainless steel case. Its dimensions are not obvious, the Edition “Orlebar Brown” wearing, as all the Portugieser large pieces, smaller than expected.

The case is designed to fit comfortable a large variety of wrist sizes. The caseband integrates the inward bent lugs. Even the brushing is extended on the lugs’ sides for a homogenous look. The rest of the surfaces are mirror polished. The strap integration is realised without any empty spaces.

The IWC Probus Scafusia decorated crown is surrounded by a raised polished crown protection. The protection bump also integrates the chrono pushers. The pushers have a wide but relatively thin topper. The entire appearance is nicely designed. The case details are quite handsome.

One of the eye-catching details of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is the strap. The blue rubber strap with textile inlay looks charming and offer very comfortable wear. It contributes to the smaller wear of the elegantly-proportioned case.

The buckle bears the sign of the IWC and Orlebar Brown collaboration deeply engraved in the metal. This buckle offers a secure sit on the wrist and it is a nice combination for the watch and strap.

A dial inspired by sea and sailing

The IWC Yacht Club “Orlebar Brown” has a gorgeous dial combining bleu-marine, white and red. With a vertical layout, the watch has a handsome face. The 12 o’clock areal presents the 60 minutes and 12 hours chronograph totaliser. The stepped down sub-dial presents two registers: the minutes counter on a circular pattern with white and red printing; the hours’ counter is central with printing on a flat surface. The elements are well delimited and offer good legibility. The chronograph’s seconds indication is realised with a central red hand that runs against the white inner bezel with blue printing.

The time display uses central hours and minutes elongated leaf hands with skeletonised centre and SuperLuminova fill. The hours’ indexes have double representation: applied metal Arabic numeral with the Portugieser known font and short baton indexes with SuperLuminova fill – another rather familiar detail. The minutes use a white printed railtrack that can also serve as an indication for the central chrono hands for an ease in legibility.

The lower side of the dial, at 6 o’clock, presents the running seconds. The subdial is subtly recessed and it is decorated with a circular pattern in the same granulation as the one met at the chrono’s minutes’ counter. The indexes and numerals are printed in blue. The date is printed in black on a white background and can be easily observed via a windowed aperture, as part of the small seconds’ dial.

As additional decoration, the dial of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” bears the name of the brand at 3 o’clock and the “Yacht Club” name at 9 o’clock. The Swiss-made marking is displayed at 6 o’clock as a break in the minute’s railtrack.

Calibre 89361 – a classic IWC movement

The Orlebar Brown Yacht Club is powered by the impressive Calibre 89361. This automatic movement powered by a 4Hz balance wheel offers an impressive set of features like the flyback chrono, hacking seconds, quick set date and a long power reserve of 68 hours due to its double barrel design and bi-directional winding.

Calibre 89361 is used in several IWC families for chronographs: Ingenieur, Da Vinci, Aquatimer , Pilot and, of course, Portugieser . The movement uses a double-clutch design with a vertical clutch for coupling and a column wheel for actuation. The combination of the two decreases the wear of the gear train with an increase of reliability over time. The system also helps the overall chronometry by decreasing the loss of amplitude by the chrono’s activation. Looking at the winding mechanism, I was wondering if this is the four pawl system patented by Jean-Francois Mojon and Norberto Perucchi fifteen years ago?

The movement does not particularly excel on the finishes side. Mostly industrial but fine and well-executed, the adornment of the Calibre 89361 deserves a look through the exhibition case back.

It has the looks, it has the brains

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is a beautiful watch with a pleasant layout and nice colour scheme. The look can be overshadowed only by the technically impressive in-house movement, the Calibre 89361. The back offers a compelling view too.

Definitively, it has a sporty appearance. Regardless if worn as a daily driver, at the beach or by sailing, the watch offers comfortable wear even for smaller wrists.  I have an 18cm/7inch wrist and I usually tend to stop at a diametre of 41-42mm. But I didn’t realise how big the watch actually is. So a strong point for a small wrist to give it a chance.

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” Technical Specifications and Price

REF. IW390704

• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds
• Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
• Flyback function
• Date display
• Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
• Small hacking seconds
• 89361 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic, self-winding
• 68 hours Power Reserve
• Frequency 28800.0 vph (4.0 Hz)
• 299 Components
• Côtes de Genève, perlage
• Stainless steel case
• Diameter 44.6  mm
• Height 14.3  mm
• Screw-in crown
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water-resistance 6 bar
• Blue dial with luminescence
• Blue rubber strap with textile inlay
• Strap width 22 mm
• 11.800 € , Price includes taxes and shipping.

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Past Collections, 2020

Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

Stainless steel Case, Automatic winding, Diameter 44.6 mm.

Made in Switzerland

Our Concierge will be happy to help you complete your purchase, find out availability in our boutiques or answer any questions

Or send us a message through our online form.  

IW390703 Specifications

• Stainless steel Case
• Diameter 44.6 mm
• Height 14.3 mm
• Screw in crown
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water resistance 10.0 bar
• 89361 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic winding
• 68 Power Reserve
• Frequency 28800.0 VPH (4.0 Hz)
• 299 Components
• Côtes de Genève
• Small hacking seconds
• Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
• Date display
• Flyback function
• Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds
• Silver plated dial
• Rose Gold dial
• 18 ct 5N gold and stainless steel bracelet
• Strap width 22.0 mm

Official Documents

Make the most out of your IWC watch to make it last longer. Here’s all the useful information for its maintenance.

Care for your IWC Watch

Like any precision mechanical instrument, a watch from IWC Schaffhausen needs regular care and maintenance.

Learn more about your watch and how to maintain it. 

Complete Service

It involves a full overhaul of the timepiece and is a complex, largely manual task that takes several hours.

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Learn how to clean your watch, wind it and more in our six-part “How To…” video series.

If you can’t find answers to your questions here, please feel free to contact a member of our service staff.

Calibre Family 89000

The 89000-calibre family includes powerful chronograph movements with flyback function, which are used, for example, for the big digital date and month displays.

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