iwc yacht club review

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 Review: A Timepiece of Elegance

by Thomas Jentzsch on June 26, 2023

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference: IW390502) is a timepiece that exudes elegance and sophistication. It is a watch that is both functional and stylish, making it a popular choice among watch enthusiasts and collectors. The Portugieser collection was first introduced by IWC in the 1930s, and since then, it has become one of the brand's most iconic and recognizable lines. The Yacht Club Chronograph is a modern interpretation of the classic Portugieser design, featuring a sleek and sporty look that is perfect for those who enjoy water sports and outdoor activities. In this review, we will take a closer look at the features and design of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, and explore why it is a must-have for any watch enthusiast.

Brand Summary

IWC is a luxury Swiss watch brand that has been around since 1868. The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a high-end timepiece that is designed for sailors and yachting enthusiasts. This watch features a sleek and stylish design, with a blue dial and silver hands. It also has a chronograph function, which allows the wearer to measure elapsed time. The watch is powered by an automatic movement and is water-resistant up to 60 meters. Overall, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a premium watch that combines style and functionality, making it a great choice for anyone who loves sailing or the ocean.

Get the full Technical Details –>

Watch Details

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference: IW390502) is a sophisticated and sporty timepiece that combines the elegance of the iconic Portugieser line with the functionality of a chronograph. Released in 2010, this model is part of the esteemed Portugieser collection, known for its timeless design and exceptional craftsmanship. With its nautical-inspired aesthetics and reliable performance, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 has gained popularity among watch enthusiasts and individuals who appreciate a versatile and stylish timepiece.

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is widely available and can be purchased at authorized IWC boutiques and selected retailers worldwide. Its availability and distribution make it easily accessible to those seeking a high-quality and prestigious timepiece.

Encased in a robust stainless steel case with a diameter of 43.5mm, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 exudes a sense of refinement and durability. The case is complemented by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, ensuring clear visibility of the dial while providing reliable protection against daily wear and tear.

Powering this exceptional timepiece is the precise and reliable IWC Caliber 89361 automatic movement. With a power reserve of approximately 68 hours, the watch ensures accurate timekeeping and convenience for the wearer. The movement can be admired through the transparent case back, showcasing the craftsmanship and attention to detail.

The dial of the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 features a clean and legible design, with applied silver hour markers and hands. The chronograph subdials at 6 and 12 o’clock provide additional functionality and add to the watch’s sporty appeal. The date window at 3 o’clock adds practicality to the watch’s functionality.

With a water resistance rating of 60 meters (6 bar), the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 offers versatility and durability for various water activities. It can withstand splashes, rain, and even swimming, but it is not suitable for diving or other water sports.

In terms of pricing, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is positioned in the higher end of the luxury watch market. Prices may vary depending on factors such as location and retailer, but prospective buyers can expect to invest between $10,000 and $15,000 USD for this exceptional timepiece.

In summary, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is a sophisticated and sporty watch that combines elegant design with exceptional functionality. Its widespread availability, combined with its competitive price range, makes it an attractive option for those seeking a high-quality and prestigious timepiece. With its stainless steel case, refined dial, and reliable movement, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 represents IWC’s commitment to creating watches that offer enduring style and exceptional performance. Whether you’re on land or at sea, this timepiece is a testament to IWC’s dedication to craftsmanship and luxury.

Key Features

• Stainless steel case
• Blue dial with white subdials
• Automatic movement
• 44.6mm case diameter
• Water-resistant up to 60 meters
• Chronograph function with flyback feature
• Date display at 3 o’clock
• Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Navy blue rubber strap with folding clasp
• Power reserve of 68 hours
• Stylish and sophisticated design
• High-quality materials and craftsmanship
• Reliable and accurate Swiss-made movement
• Chronograph function for precise timing
• Easy-to-read dial with clear markers and hands
• Comfortable and durable leather strap
• Great value for the price compared to other luxury watches
• Expensive price point
• Relatively large case size may not be suitable for all wrist sizes
• Water resistance rating of only 60 meters may not be sufficient for serious water activities
• Limited color options for the dial and strap
• May not appeal to those who prefer a more minimalist or understated design

Comparable Watches

When it comes to finding comparable watches to the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, there are a few brands that come to mind. One such brand is Omega, which offers the Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph as a viable alternative. This watch boasts a similar sporty aesthetic and features a chronograph function, as well as a date display and water resistance up to 600 meters.

Another brand that offers comparable watches is TAG Heuer, with their Aquaracer Chronograph being a popular choice. This watch also features a chronograph function and water resistance up to 300 meters, making it a great option for water sports enthusiasts. Additionally, the Aquaracer Chronograph has a sleek and modern design that is sure to turn heads.

Finally, Breitling offers the Superocean Heritage Chronograph as a comparable watch to the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph. This watch features a similar nautical-inspired design and boasts water resistance up to 200 meters. It also has a chronograph function and a date display, making it a practical and stylish choice for any occasion.

Ultimately, when comparing watches to the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, it is important to consider factors such as design, functionality, and water resistance in order to find the best fit for your needs.

Watch Collectors Opinions

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference: IW390502) has received generally positive reviews from watch collectors and reviewers. One of the most notable features of this timepiece is its elegant and sophisticated design, which is reminiscent of classic sailing watches. Many collectors have praised the watch's attention to detail, such as the polished and brushed stainless steel case and the blue dial with contrasting white sub-dials, which give the watch a timeless and elegant look.

Another aspect of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph that has received praise is its impressive functionality. The watch features a chronograph function that is accurate and easy to use, as well as a date display and a flyback function that allows the wearer to reset the chronograph without stopping it first. Additionally, the watch is water-resistant up to 60 meters, making it a practical choice for those who enjoy water sports or spending time on boats.

Overall, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph has been well-received by watch collectors and reviewers alike. Its combination of classic design and modern functionality make it a versatile and stylish timepiece that is sure to appeal to a wide range of collectors. Whether you're a seasoned watch enthusiast or a newcomer to the hobby, this watch is definitely worth considering for your collection.

In conclusion, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference: IW390502) is a remarkable timepiece that showcases the brand's commitment to quality and craftsmanship. Its elegant design, exceptional functionality, and reliable performance make it a versatile and stylish choice for watch enthusiasts and individuals who appreciate luxury and prestige.

With its nautical-inspired aesthetics and sporty appeal, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is a standout among the esteemed Portugieser collection. Its availability and distribution worldwide make it easily accessible to those seeking a high-quality and prestigious timepiece.

The watch's robust stainless steel case, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and precise automatic movement ensure durability, visibility, and accuracy. The clean and legible dial with chronograph subdials and date window adds practicality and functionality to the watch's design.

Although positioned in the higher end of the luxury watch market, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is a worthwhile investment for those seeking a timeless and exceptional timepiece. Its enduring style and exceptional performance represent IWC's dedication to creating watches that stand the test of time.

Overall, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is a testament to the brand's commitment to craftsmanship and luxury. Whether you're on land or at sea, this watch is a stylish and reliable companion that is sure to impress.

Q: What sets the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) apart from other sports chronograph watches? A: The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) stands out with its elegant and sophisticated design combined with its robust sports chronograph functionality. Its nautical-inspired elements, such as the bold blue dial, regatta countdown feature, and water resistance, make it a perfect companion for sailing and water activities.

Q: Is the strap of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) interchangeable? Can I switch it to a different style or material? A: Yes, the strap of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) is interchangeable, offering versatility and customization options. You can easily swap the original strap for a different style or material, such as a rubber strap or a fabric NATO strap, allowing you to adapt the watch to various occasions and preferences.

Q: Does the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) feature a flyback chronograph function? A: Absolutely! The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) includes a flyback chronograph function, allowing you to quickly reset and restart the chronograph with a single push of a button. This feature is particularly useful for timing multiple events or laps without having to stop and reset the chronograph each time.

Q: Can the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) be worn for swimming and diving? A: The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) has a water resistance rating of 60 meters (200 feet), making it suitable for recreational swimming and water activities. However, it is not designed for professional diving. Its water resistance ensures the watch’s durability and protection against water-related exposure.

Q: What materials are used in the construction of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502)? A: The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) features a stainless steel case that provides durability and a refined appearance. The watch also incorporates a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, protecting the dial from daily wear and tear. These high-quality materials contribute to the watch’s overall quality and longevity.

An Old Acquaintance: Reviewing the IWC Portugieser Chronograph

IWC has added several new models to the Portugieser family in recent years. One of them is the iconic chronograph. In this latest visit to the WatchTime archives, we tested this watch, our good old friend, which boasts a trendy green dial and is equipped with a manufacture caliber.

The Portugieser is one of IWC’s oldest and most prestigious product lines, with a dial that has hardly changed over 80 years. “That’s why we approached the project of designing the new collection very carefully and with tremendous respect for history,” Christoph Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC, and Creative Director Christian Knoop explained.

The Portugieser’s Handsome Dial Remains Nearly Unchanged The impressive result puts every doubt to rest. Glancing at the attractive face of the Portugieser Chronograph, you instantly recognize a cherished old acquaintance, although the dial of our test watch is now a trendy green, and plays with the light. Another version comes with a burgundy dial. There’s also a boutique edition with an elegant blue dial and a rose-gold case.

The very distinctive, clear and functional dial is 38 mm in diameter and has recessed counters at 6 and 12, slim feuille hands and applied Arabic numerals. These features have so strongly influenced the Portugieser chronograph that even in the new version, no designer dared to replace the partly cut-away numerals 6 and 12 with arguably “simpler” index strokes. Comparing this latest update to the last fine tuning about 10 years ago, we find that the calibrations on the counters with inward-facing numerals, the lettering, and the slender quarter-second scale on the flange have all remained unchanged. As a whole, the latest version of this timeless watch retains its own character and remains loyal to its origins as a time-measuring instrument — not least because of the finely calibrated elapsed-seconds scale. With three intervening strokes between each pair of full-second lines, its markings correctly match the 4-Hz rhythm of a modified version of a movement from IWC’s recent 69000 caliber family.

IWC’s Favorite, at Last with a Manufacture Caliber Designated as number 69355, this caliber is the essential new feature in the latest Portugieser chronograph. As one of the most popular items in IWC’s portfolio, now it’s finally equipped with a manufacture caliber. This was not yet the situation a decade ago, when the still-young Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph was given a manufacture movement from the 89000 caliber series, which was introduced in 2007. The 69000 caliber family, which made its debut 10 years later, underwent four years of further development and was encased for the first time in the Ingenieur Chronograph in 2017.

With the newly designed 69000 caliber series, IWC is gradually replacing chronograph movements based on the ETA/Valjoux 7750 and at the same time offering a less costly alternative to the 89000 series of manufacture calibers. Our test watch comes with a $7,950 price tag. The least costly variant of the new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph with Caliber 89361 sells for $12,100. Paying the additional charge also gets you a flyback function and a longer power reserve of 68 hours. The power reserve of Caliber 69355, on the other hand, is rather short by contemporary standards, at 46 hours, and this caliber relies on an index to adjust its hairspring’s active length — a simpler method of finely adjusting the rate than the eccentric screws on the rim of Caliber 89361’s balance in the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph.

Otherwise, chronograph Caliber 69355 similarly offers a sturdy and precise column wheel to control the stopwatch functions, a rocking pinion to couple the chronograph with the flow of force from the gear train and a modern bidirectional effective self-winding mechanism. This automatic winding, however, is not the Pellaton mechanism (named after the former IWC engineer) that’s installed in the calibers of the 89000 series, but a modern development from the Richemont Group.

The Movement’s Rate Upholds the Promise of Quality The positioning of the subdial for the continually running seconds at the 6 is unusual because most chronographs put this indicator at the 9. While other modifications of Caliber 69000 have a counter for 12 elapsed hours at the 9, it’s absent from the Portugieser chronograph, as is the date across the dial at the 3. With reference to this watch’s history and to further enhance the harmony of its design, this newest Portugieser only has a 30-minute counter at the 12 and no luminous material on its numerals, indexes or hands.

Turning the timepiece over and peering through its back, where four screws affix the sapphire crystal, you can discover numerous details typical of IWC’s caliber construction, e.g., circular patterns in Geneva-stripes style, satin finishes, circular graining and a skeletonized rotor engraved with the words “Probus Scafusia.” Our test confirmed that the automatic movement upholds this promise of quality. It ran extremely well and achieved well-balanced rate values. Its performance on the wrist was similar to the rate measured by our timing machine when the watch was fully wound. Timekeeping in chronograph mode is likewise impeccable, with an average daily deviation of about 1 second.

The Portugieser Chronograph Reflects Timelessness and Modernity The stopwatch functions are controlled by pressing mushroom-shaped push-pieces. The pressure points here are secure and the buttons run smoothly to reliably trigger the column wheel. The knurled crown is user friendly and can easily be pulled outward into the hand-setting position. These components complement the classic Portugieser case, which reveals its conical contours when viewed from the side. The narrow, polished bezel extends beyond the middle part of the case, thus providing plenty of space for the dial. The screwed back tapers toward the sapphire crystal with a concave edge curve. The case’s laterally satin-finished middle section slopes very strongly downward to the strap lugs. All this, together with the high-quality alligator leather strap and its convenient butterfly folding clasp makes it comfortable to wear on the wrist.

A quick look at the wrist immediately offers a pleasant surprise because our “good old friend” now indulges in a lively play of colors. Viewed through its domed and anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the dial doesn’t appear green from every angle, but changes its appearance from dark green to nearly black, which endows this classic watch with understated elegance. Whether by coincidence or on purpose, in this way too the Portugieser chronograph embodies the timeless modernity for which IWC is known and appreciated.

SPECS: Manufacturer: IWC Schaffausen, Baumgartenstrasse 15, 8200 Schaffausen, Switzerland Reference number: IW371615 Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph (central elapsed- seconds hand, counter for up to 30 elapsed minutes) Movement: IWC 69355 based on caliber family 69000, automatic, 28,800 vph, 27 jewels, Glucydur balance, Nivarox hair-spring, Etachron fine adjustment via bi-partite index, Incabloc shock absorption, 46-hour power reserve, diameter = 30.0 mm, height = 7.90 mm Case: Stainless steel with domed sapphire crystal above dial anti-reflectively treated on both sides, sapphire crystal in caseback, water resistant to 30 meters Strap and cla­­sp: Black alligator leather strap with double folding clasp Rate results (deviation in seconds per 24 hours, fully wound/after 24 hours: On the wrist +1.6 Dial up +3.1 / +1.4 Dial down +2.5 / +0.0 Crown up -0.5 / -3.5 Crown down +4.1 / +4.4 Crown left -0.3 / -0.8 Greatest deviation 4.6 / 7.9 Average deviation +1.8 / +0.3 Average amplitude: Flat positions 321° / 292° Hanging positions 296° / 267° Dimensions: Diameter = 40.95 mm, height = 13.08 mm, weight = 90.0 g Variations: With burgundy dial (Ref. IWC371616; $7,950); Boutique Edition with rose-gold case, blue dial and blue strap (Ref. IW371614; $17,800) Price: $7,950

A very interesting and professional article. Generally think the portugieser, especially with the manufactur movement, is a Wonderful watch with is pretty much underrated.

Brilliant watch and hard to evaluate. I have a 2001 version, unworn and in a wooden box. It is a limited edition split second model and not worth a lot as with many high end watches. As with most IWCs hard to better and very underrated.

Love this watch! From the first time I saw it in the metal, I wanted it. I have the blue dial 150th anniversary version which I just adore.

My son got one 20 years ago and is still very happy with this wonderful timepiece. Within my vast collection I have various IWC, including a priceless D’Avinci, and hold the marque in very high esteem.

Nice watch, but for the price asked I`d probably buy something else…

Click here to cancel reply.

Name (required)

Email (will not be published) (required)

• Best Whiskey
• Best Gym Shoes
• Best Pocket Knives
• Best Apple Watch
• Porsche Models

A Smaller IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Still Looms Large

IWC tweaked the size of its sporty Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph — and now it’s even better than before.

By Jason Heaton

1 original photo

When Boston native Florentine Ariosto Jones arrived in Switzerland in the mid-1860s to set up a watch company based on the modern industrial techniques of the American watch industry, he found little welcome in Geneva. So he headed east to Schaffhausen, where he found a small community of watchmakers who built timepieces in the German tradition — less artisanal flourish, more overbuilt sturdiness — and a river to power a factory. It seemed an ideal place to put down stakes; Jones settled there, built workshops on the bank of the Rhine and called his new company the International Watch Company.

Throughout the 20th century, IWC watches evolved from its first sturdy pocketwatches to the pilot’s watches worn by both German and British air force flyers to groundbreaking dive watches and antimagnetic scientists’ timepieces. The overriding theme of all of these watches was rugged and innovative practicality. In the 1930s, some Portuguese watch retailers approached IWC with a request to build a handful of oversized watches with accurate pocket watch movements. These large wristwatches went against the trend of the day, which favored smaller diameters, but swimming against the tide was not unusual for IWC and the Portuguese went on to become perhaps IWC’s most recognizable and beloved watch line.

Any deeper and it dips into dive watch territory, a place no skipper wants to be during an afternoon on the water.

At the SIHH watch fair in January, IWC debuted a refresh of its Portugieser ( auf Deutsch, natürlich ) family of watches. Cases returned to traditional design cues, with more graceful lines and some vintage-inspired dials. New movements and complications were added, like a beautiful annual calendar and a halo timepiece, the grand complication. One piece carried over from the previous generation is the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, a decidedly sporty watch with a name that is a nod to both the historic Portugieser family and a 1970s IWC called the Yacht Club.

IWC has always been known for its oversized watches and the last iteration of the Yacht Club Chrono was no exception at a burly 45mm. But the new version received a slight tweak and now comes in at a more svelte 43.5mm, which doesn’t seem like a big change, but on the wrist it is a far better-proportioned and more comfortable watch. The movement inside is IWC’s innovative in-house 89365 calibre, with a healthy 68-hour power reserve and a combined hour/minute counter that makes elapsed time read-off intuitive and quick. With its seafaring name, it stands to reason that IWC fits the watch with a rubber strap and a screw-in crown, giving it a respectable 60 meters of water resistance. Any deeper and it dips into dive watch territory, a place no skipper wants to be during an afternoon on the water.

Since 2011, IWC has been the official timekeeper of the round-the-world sailing Volvo Ocean Race, and the Yacht Club Chronograph, the watch given to the team that sets the record for the fastest 24-hour time during the race. It is a fitting watch for this epic race, in name and design, though, bashing through 40-foot waves rounding Cape Horn, we might be inclined to stow it in our kit bag, given its $12,000 sticker price.

Related Topics

THE COLLECTIVE

European Watch Company – Est. 1993

Sailing Away: The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon and Tide Reference IW344001

Published by samuel colchamiro.

View all posts by Samuel Colchamiro

IWC’s Portugieser line of watches has always been recognized as some of the best everyday watches. The model line brings classic layout to a sporty case dimension to form a sort of hybrid timepiece that is equally comfortable in many environments. The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon and Tide, reference IW344001 represents one of the latest additions to the Portugieser family, contributing new complications to the celebrated model line.

The IWC Portugieser collection was introduced in 1939 with the reference 325. Two Portuguese businessmen, Rodrigues and Antonio Teixeira, approached International Watch Company, proposing the construction of a stainless steel watch with marine chronometer precision. Subsequently, the reference 325 was born. Then considered a robust sports piece, the 325 was produced into the 50s, when the output began to sharply decrease for a variety of business related reasons.

Interestingly, IWC made many extra cases for the 325 which remained unused by the end of production. In the 1970’s, a Swiss retailer requested that IWC make a series of pieces utilizing the original cases that remained. The brand agreed, maintaining the original styling of the 325 but updating the movement to the caliber 982, which was significantly more refined than the caliber 98 of old, which had been better suited for a pocket watch than a wrist watch. After the success of this run, IWC ran a series of production runs for different European markets, including in 1979 for Germany and a 1993 limited edition in honor of the 125th anniversary of IWC. The 325 captures an essential portion of watchmaking history— the transition from pocket watches to wrist watches. Pieces like the 325 demonstrated the overall movement of the industry away from large pocket watches and towards wrist watches that provided the same chronometric precision and complication. 

Since the Portugieser’s rebirth, the model line has exploded into arguably the brand’s most recognizable design (up there alongside the Pilot models). In 2020, IWC launched the model we are covering today, the Yacht Club Moon and Tide reference IW344001 in 5n red gold. 

Design Details

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon and Tide, reference IW344001, is an interesting amalgamation of elements. Carrying the history of the Portugieser model line, with the sporty sizing of 44mm, strong lug presentation, and crown guards, the piece is simultaneously quite refined in some of its finishing details. Fashioned from solid gold with gold hands and applied indices, the piece is reminiscent of say the Rolex Submariner in yellow gold — it’s a robust design and history, but a luxury set of appointments and finishes. This versatility is both an attribute and a detractor depending on your preferences. 

Most interesting with this model is the unique combination of complications present on the piece. Displaying the moonphase in both the northern and southern hemispheres, and a low/ high tide indicator, the piece is the perfect companion for a mariner who enjoys mechanical complications. The strap is incredibly solid, made to resemble a rope texture (yet another nod to sailing), and is seamlessly custom integrated to the case. The strap is outfitted with a deployant clasp, an attribute that is particularly helpful on heavier watches like the Yacht Club. The case flanks are brushed and contrast with a polished bezel. The brushed finish continues to the sides of the lugs, with the dial side of the lugs also receiving high polish. IWC’s dial is a rich blue sunburst that adds to the warmth of the red gold case and further accentuates the nautical theme of the piece. 

Beyond the complications and adaptations made to accommodate them, the piece maintains the identity of earlier Portugieser models, with classic leaf-style hands (lumed in this case), arabic numerals, and large dial alongside a minimalist bezel. This design formula helped make the Portugieser a success in the past, and continues to attract a diverse collector pool in the modern era. 

Join 75,000+ Other Watch Enthusiasts

Get our new arrivals first.

Inner Workings

IWC’s Moon and Tide reference IW344001 is powered by the automatic winding caliber 82835. The 82835 is well spec’d, with 60 hours of power reserve, but brings a considerable feature that many remain wholly unaware of: the Pellaton winding system. Developed by Albert Pellaton, the technical director of IWC until 1966, the unique mechanism uses a series of pawls to transmit the energy from the rotor to the mainspring. The most immediate benefit of the system is significantly greater resilience against shocks and vibrations, interference that can hurt the delicate gear train. It is always exciting to own a piece that incorporates a key development of that brand’s history. Owning an IWC with the Pellaton is analogous to a Breguet watch with a tourbillon— it’s special. 

IWC chose to skeletonize the bridge structure on the movement side in order to provide greater visibility into the componentry of the movement. This is certainly a more obscure method of skeletonization than say a skeleton dial, but it is quite an interesting approach that yields practically the same results without interfering with the dial side of the piece. Skeleton watches are polarizing — some love them, some hate them — but a skeleton movement doesn’t drastically impact the overall presentation of the watch when the dial is unaffected. 

The automatic winding rotor is inlaid with a rose gold medallion bearing the IWC branding. In equally sophisticated fashion, the base of the caliber is made from brass, consistent with tradition. The piece includes hacking seconds and IWC’s proprietary shock absorption system.

Versus the Competition

The most natural alternatives to the Yacht Club Moon and Tide reference IW344001 would be both of Rolex’s Yacht Master model lines. Fashioned from Rose Gold (options are available in white gold as well), the Yacht Master reference 126655 confers the same mix of precious metal and sports spec mentioned earlier. The Yacht Master is likely the archetypical representation of a luxury yachting watch.

Alongside the Yacht Master, the Yacht Master II is an equally common option. Also made from solid gold, the Yacht Master II provides a regatta timer chronograph with countdown mechanism. If you plan on timing races, this watch is the one for you. Of course, the IWC Yacht Club affords an entirely different set of complications, but if you are seeking out a recognizable regatta timer, this is the model to go for. 

For an entirely different take on the regatta timer, consider Richard Mille’s 50 piece limited edition RM 60-01 “St. Barth” . It’s a flyback chronograph with UTC function and 50 hours of power reserve. Made from titanium, this watch is nothing like the others, but is equally interesting, as one of RM’s only watches not to use the typical tonneau case shape. 

Personality

The collector that appreciates this type of watch likely enjoys sailing and/ or yachting. Some will actually use the complications present, exploiting the high and low tide indications as well as the moon phase in different hemispheres to help in navigational decisions. Seeing as most sophisticated modern ships provide this information equally, if not, more accurately, it is more likely that this watch is appreciated more for its ties to the nautical world than for its practical utility as a tool. 

Marine associations aside, the piece is equally wearable and interesting for a complete outsider. If you like larger wrist watches or obscure complications, the rose gold 44mm timepiece is quite charming on its own. 

Final Thoughts

The IWC Portugieser is one of the most successful design languages in the industry. Since its introduction, the Portugieser collection has grown to include a variety of complications, from chronographs, to perpetual calendars, to minute repeaters, to annual calendars. Each watch has its own character, but unique complications such as high and low tide indication and dual moon phases are the types of elements that watch collectors obsess over. Even if the complication is never used, the knowledge that a mechanical solution has been created to address the need for such information is the underlying philosophy that keeps collectors engaged and enthusiastic about watchmaking in the first place. 

See More of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon and Tide Reference IW344001

Visit europeanwatch.com.

You are using an outdated browser. Please upgrade your browser to improve your experience.

This page requires JavaScript to work properly. Please enable JavaScript in your browser.

Gentleman Sailor: Testing the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

11 Jun 2022

Watchtime Usa

Contributing Writer

The new IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a watch you can wear with confidence anywhere at the marina. A first glance shows that the third generation of the sportiest Portugieser model, our test watch, is designed to be both a nautical timepiece and a luxury accessory. The first impression of this IWC diving watch is confirmed upon closer inspection of its polished and satin-finish case, sunburst blue dial and brightly polished hands. Every component is flawlessly finished and worthy to be part of the supremely elegant Portugieser collection. 

For the first time in its 10-year history, this Portugieser Yacht Club boasts a steel bracelet rather than a rubber or leather strap — a sturdy but elegant IWC steel bracelet with brushed outer links and polished inner links. Shortening the bracelet involves simply pressing a button on the back of each row of sturdy links to remove it. Unlike simpler bracelet designs, using screws or hammering is not needed. 

Inside the safety folding clasp of this IWC  diving watch, there is also a quick extension piece that quickly and easily lengthens the bracelet by up to 7 mm.  Pressing the polished ‘IWC’ button on the outer bar of the clasp extends the bracelet in seven increments — without ever removing the watch from your wrist. Two safety buttons round out the sturdy and well-designed folding clasp. 

Detailed Modifications 

In addition to the bracelet, the dial has also been updated. The central chronograph hand is now steel-grey instead of red, and the date window has been shifted from the 3 o’clock position to the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Both changes enhance the elegance of the Yacht Club and were well received by our editorial staff. 

The elegant impression is diminished, however, by the enlargement of the already considerable stainless-steel case from 43.5 mm to 44.6 mm.  Our editorial staff admitted that no one among them had a wrist to match its substantial dimensions. 

Even so, the large, heavy watch is quite comfortable to wear thanks to ergonomically shaped sloping lugs and a supple steel bracelet. Unfortunately, the flexibility and adjustability of the IWC’s bracelet results in relatively large gaps  between the links, which can catch and pull hair. 

Proven Technology 

Components taken from earlier generations of the Yacht Club include the sturdy and powerful in-house movement, Calibre 89361, with many excellent features like a 68-hour power reserve; a traditional column-wheel control mechanism; the brand’s own exceptionally efficient Pellaton dual-pawl winding system; a free-sprung, temperature-resistant Glucydur balance wheel; and a flyback function for the direct restarting of the running chronograph. It can also show off beautiful decorative finishes, gold-enhanced engraving and a gold IWC medallion on the skeletonised oscillating rotor.

Another feature of the in-house movement of  IWC diving watch  is the combined 12-hour and 60-minute counter in the upper half of the dial, which is intended to show elapsed time intuitively, as on a clock. The combined counter is too small for everyday use, however, and its markings are too fine to read elapsed time to the minute quickly and easily. The chronograph seconds track around the dial is also extremely fine, and the central chronograph seconds hand is insufficiently long to fully reach it. In sum, it’s a mixed bag, with clearly legible time and date, and elapsed time that is much more difficult to read. 

Accurate Rate 

Our rate test revealed more about the Swiss movement. The electronic timing machine showed a negligibly small daily rate of +0.8 seconds, a maximum deviation between the positions of only 4 seconds and almost the same values when the chronograph is engaged. A two-week wearing test confirmed the small daily deviation with values between zero and +2 seconds — making our test watch a reliable partner for everyday use. 

In addition to the movement, another feature of the Yacht Club that hasn’t changed arouses mixed feelings — the pressure resistance of six bar that corresponds to water pressure at a depth of 60 metres. Although this may sound like a lot at first, the water resistance as it is tested under laboratory conditions is rather low for a nautical luxury sports watch linked to the world of sailing. Coming in contact with spray or waves means a watch should be resistant to at least 10 bar or 100 metres to ensure a certain degree of security in a variety of different environments. And even though this still isn’t a lot, it is the current standard for any water sports watch not explicitly designed for  diving . 

Advice for boat owners is simply this: It’s better to wear this watch in the evening, below deck, or to dinner at the marina, and either take it easy onboard during the day or rely on a sports watch that is clearly defined as such. The new  Portugieser  Yacht Club Chronograph is well equipped for normal everyday wear and light sports activities — and is the perfect gentleman sailor for social events on or below deck.

This story first appeared in WatchTime US, and was then carried in WatchTime India. To subscribe, click  here .

More In review

The Blackest Black: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack

To what degree is the Square Bang a typical Hublot?

A hands-on with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton

Review: We got our hands on the Bulgari Octo Roma WorldTimer

We find out how Omega's Speedmaster Chronoscope is scaling new heights

Sign up for our newsletters to have the latest stories delivered to your inbox

MORE IN Review

New On Watchtime.in

15 Minutes With: Erol Baliyan, Managing Director, Franck Muller, Middle East, Africa, and India

In conversation with Aurel Bacs, auctioneer and senior consultant, Phillips

Two new Grand Seiko models mark the 20th anniversary of Caliber 9R Spring Drive

Talking Shop: Mumbai’s Time Avenue turned 25 last year. Here's a look at how it became one of the city's top luxury watch retailers.

Zenith’s new Chronomaster Sport Titanium is 30% lighter than its steel equivalent

15 Minutes With: Edouard Meylan, CEO and owner, H. Moser & Cie.

New on watchtime.in

Review: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph – The perfect summers’ watch?

Ah, it summer-time! The sun is shining, birds are singing and you need a summer wrist-companion. Comfort, sportiness and perhaps something trendy? If one were to screen through the IWC collection, chances are they’d pick the Ingenuier or the versatile Pilot. But would you consider a Portugieser. Here, we bring you a in-depth look at one such example: the 2018 IWC Yacht Club Chronograph. It checks all those “summer-ready” boxes (if there is one), on paper at least . But, how does it stack up?

Review: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

OK, so it is summer all year long in Singapore…all the more the enjoy. IWC announced the new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph in July 12, 2018. Here is our hands-on review.

The Case, Dial and Hands

Despite several key differences in stylistic design cues, the Yacht Club Chronograph is still instantly instantly recognisable as being part of the Portugieser collection.

The 43.5mm stainless steel case shares several design traits with the classic Portugieser chronograph. Despite its increased size, the watch still wore comfortably on the author’s wrist.

The watch features a round stainless steel case which measures 43.5mm in diameter. Granted, a rather generous proportion, but one that is not new to the brand. It shares several design traits with the classic chronograph: the case shape, pushers and crown looks identical. However, where the Portugieser family is best suited for dressing up, the Yacht-Club is all for enjoying the water; oceans, boating (and desk diving!). Its appearance is rather sporty, with a maxi-sized case, thick bezel and crown guards. Despite its size, the watch wore really well: it sat comfortably on the author’s (smaller than average) 5.5″ wrist with good all-round weight distribution. Furthermore, the 14.2mm case thickness ensured a pleasant wrist presence without being overbearing.

A healthy blend of polished and brushed surfaces ensures a sporty-elegance flair: flashy without being brash. Also seen here is its case thickness of 14.2mm: a comfortable size while providing sufficient wrist presence.

Finishing is a visual and physical treat: the case has a healthy blend of meticulously polished and brushed surfaces, ensuring a bright and seductive appearance. A sporty-elegance flair perhaps; flashy without being brash. Finally, the corners and sides features smooth, sensual curves with no ‘rough edges’.

The sunburst blue dial is rather handsome, sporting contrasting white sub dials. We enjoyed its overall cleanliness and sleek appearance.

The dial is the highlight of this watch, sporting a striking sunburst blue with contrasting white sub dials. The top and bottom counters records hours/minutes-elapsed and running-seconds respectively. They don a circular pattern and sits slightly recessed into the dial for better depth. Its printing is somewhat busy with two scales, but we had no issues with readability. In fact, the entire dial features a rather unadulterated and sleek appearance: no ‘handy reminders’ of specifications or certifications – a detail that is greatly appreciated. Additionally, we enjoyed the subtle, charming touches such as the distinct red chronograph seconds hand. Overall a well balanced dial with effective use of negative space.

A rather striking dial, but not one without minor complaints. One of them is the truncated number ’11’. Another is the upside-down markings on the sub dials.

To top it off, the sporty mien is accompanied by polished  appliqué  arabic numerals – one that adds an elegant flair to the watch. Extending outwards are 13 hour-markers. And complimenting them is a set of  feuille  (leaf)-shaped minute and hour hands. Both the hour-markers and hands have been filled with SuperLuminova which ensures good legibility in all situations.

There were several minor complaints however. Some may prefer that the top sub dial be made slightly smaller to avoid cutting off the ’11’ numeral (think Portugieser Chronograph Classic). Another is the ‘flipped’ markings on the counters. That said, these minor niggles do not detract much from its overall looks.

Turning the watch over, we find a see-through sapphire case back. The watch comes on an accompanying blue rubber strap with metal keeper. One interesting note about the rubber is the motif underneath which prevents slippage while on the wrist.

The Movement: IWC 89361

Inside the Yacht-Club houses the IWC 89361 calibre – an in-house manufactured chronograph movement. It boasts an impressive 60-hours power reserve and beats at 28,800 bph (4Hz). Furthermore, this self-winding movement features a flyback function and date complication. Finishing is well executed entirely with haute horology decorations such as Côtes  de  Genève  (Geneva Stripes) and perlage (circular graining).

The in-house IWC 89361 calibre is a flyback chronograph boasting a 60-hours power reserve. Finishing appears to be done to a high engineering standard. Nonetheless, an obvious choice for movement.

The chronograph pushers feels pronounced upon activation and winding was smooth with good tactile feedback. This movement can be found across IWC’s portfolio of chronograph watches as well as other iterations of the Yacht-Club, thus its choice appears to be a no-brainer.

Competitive Landscape

The IWC Portugieser Yacht-Club Chronograph “Summer Edition” has a recommended retail price of S$17,900. It’s priced appropriately, in-line with other sporty and versatile chronographs . If one is looking for a summers’ timepiece, the choices are endless. Here, we bring you a non-exhaustive list of timepieces which are as competent of transitioning seamlessly from ocean jaunts to cocktail parties.

Summer-ready: the Yacht Club has an appearance that is sporty yet trendy.

We kick things off with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph . When it comes to luxury sports watches, the Royal Oak is the undisputed industry icon. The iconic octagonal case was conceived by none other than Gerald Genta himself. The current iteration is fitted on a rubber straps and are available in a slew of funky colour variations. Its not just all looks without brawn, as the watch is rated to a depth of 300 meters. Highly recognisable (and desirable) on land yet able to perform out at sea – a perfect summer’s timepiece indeed. The ROO Diver Chronograph is priced at S$31,900 .

Rolex Yachtmaster II ( ref. 116680 ) : a watch considered by many Rolex enthusiasts to be the most unapologetic (some call sacrilege) of the brands’ conservative stable. Ostentatious is an understatement as its 44mm case with shiny  ceramic bezel and polished center links is the opposite of subtility. Yet, it remains as a technical masterpiece, housing one of Rolex’s most complicated calibres: a flyback regatta timer with memory. Admittedly not very useful for the ordinary folks, but as a sporty watch, it is rather capable with good legibility and wrist presence. Also makes for an excellent summer statement-timepiece. (Fun fact: It is the largest commercially-available Rolex watch alongside the Deepsea .) The Yachtmaster II has a recommended retail price of S$25,120 .

The Rolex Daytona ( ref. 116500LN )  – perhaps the most ‘”exclusive” watch on this list. It’s sized at 40mm and powered by the calibre 4130 in-house column wheel movement. An excellent choice all year round. The Daytona is priced at S$16,660 .

Another option is the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A – the 179-years old maison’s sportiest line. Launched during Basel 2018, it’s the first Aquanaut to sport an in-house chronograph movement. Its case is sized at a contemporary 42.2mm and has a thickness of 11.9mm. The watch is delivered with two abrasion and UV-resistant composite straps: a black which is standard-issue and a rather un-Patek bright orange. Still, its price is  very -Patek at SGD57,700 .

A mid-range piece is the Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue. It’s a rather cool-looking chronograph, with a refreshing white dial and striking blue-orange accents. Powering it is a Tudor-modified ETA 2892 movement which delivers a 42-hours power reserve. The Heritage Chrono Blue retails for S$5,880 .

For the budget conscious, we propose the Seiko Prospex Turtle SRPC91 “Save The Ocean”. Robust build, in-house movement and a handsome blue waves motif dial. It offers an incredible quality-to-price ratio, if there is one. Can you go ever wrong? The Turtle retails at  €450 .

There’s much to like about the 2018 IWC Portugieser Yacht-Club. The contrasting blue dial and white sub dials is visually clean and appealing. Its design draws heavy inspiration from the classic Portugieser Chronograph and is rather aesthetically pleasing. The chronograph and date complications serves a functional purpose. Finally, the accompanied blue rubber strap is comfortable and completes the “summer package” look.

An area to nitpick would be the finer attention-to-details. In addition, its upsized case might not sit well with some, though as mentioned, it is comfortable on the author’s wrist. Nonetheless, the Yacht-Club is a very handsome piece which (almost) manages to be the perfect summers’ wrist-companion.

About Author

Related posts.

New: Citizen 100th anniversary limited edition Pocket Watch

New & Reviewed: Le Régulateur Tourbillon Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein

Review: The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’

Good review. I like the look of this watch, but my experience with IWC after sales (not only in Singapore) has been quite disappointing.

I don’t think a “summer” watch should be anything less than 10ATM water resistant. It is 2018 and it should easily be able to withstand a dip in a pool, lake or ocean

Could have added a changeable strap to it.. could be a rubber one but a little more contrast / jazzy types…

aBlogtoWatch Monthly Giveaway

Win: Bausele Royal Australian Air Force Centenary 2021

Time Machines: Delving Into The ‘Cult Of Genta’ With The IWC Yacht Club II Watch

Ask any enthusiast to name one watch designer, and the answer will almost invariably be Gérald Genta. Over the course of his decades-long career, Genta designed watches for a dizzying variety of brands from Audemars Piguet to Credor, launched multiple brands of his own, and arguably created the entire genre of integrated bracelet luxury sports watches singlehandedly. Still, even over a decade after his passing, Genta remains a monolithic figure in the watch community, and no designer before or since has garnered nearly the same sort of reverence among fans. What is it, then, that makes Gérald Genta such a unique focus for both enthusiasts and high-dollar collectors? Perhaps the best way to explore what makes Genta a cult figure in the watch community is to contemplate one of his designs – in this case, the late ‘70s IWC Yacht Club II. Slender, elegant, and bursting with understated complexity, the IWC Yacht Club II distills many of Genta’s favorite design cues into a clean and restrained package, without the baggage of many of his more famous designs.

Introduced at the height of the Quartz Crisis in 1977, the Yacht Club II was the second integrated watch Gérald Genta designed for IWC after 1974’s more famous Ingenieur. The previous C-cased Yacht Club had been a perennial bestseller for the brand through much of the ‘60s and ‘70s, but like the rest of the industry, it had suffered substantially from cheaper, more accurate Japanese quartz competition. Rather than vehemently rejecting the idea of quartz and moving as upmarket as possible, à la Audemars Piguet, IWC instead settled on a hybrid strategy, creating world-class mechanical timepieces and supplementing them with luxe takes on still-innovative quartz technology. The Yacht Club II was the lynchpin of this new strategy, offered with both an in-house IWC Caliber 2250 quartz movement and an ultra-thin JLC 889 automatic and presented as a more casual, lifestyle-oriented alternative to the more seriously sporting Ingenieur or Aquatimer. Genta’s design for the Yacht Club II reflects this philosophy, with a softer, less utilitarian silhouette than the Ingenieur, multiple strap and bracelet options, and an emphasis on slimness.

The IWC Yacht Club II’s case sits at the heart of this design concept. This reference 3312 “Jumbo” model measures in at 38mm wide, but much of the overall form emphasizes this watch’s low, broad stance on the wrist. The stout, squared-off integrated lugs play a major part in this stance, barely extending beyond the bezel and tapering only gently from the case’s widest point. Like many other Genta designs, the overall case shape is roughly octagonal, anchored by a wide octagonal bezel, but in this case, the geometric form continues uninterrupted into squared-off, vertical potions of the case sides at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock. Rather than coming across as brutish or heavy, however, these segments instead work to emphasize just how slender the Yacht Club II is on the wrist, particularly thanks to the even slimmer lug profiles on either side. In true Genta fashion, however, the geometric bezel forms the centerpiece of the case. Rather than Genta’s most famous models, which either define this bezel in harsh polished angles or smooth curves, the Yacht Club II combines both into a broad, intriguing shape defined more by finishing than crisp, distinct planes. The uppermost surface of this bezel is circular and fully flat, crowned with smooth, understated radial brushing. Between this top layer and the octagonal bezel edge is an exceedingly gradual sloping polished chamfer, which contrasts dramatically with both the flat circular bezel top and the sheer, vertical planes of the bezel edge. Genta confidently left this chamfer as the only brightwork anywhere on the Yacht Club II’s exterior, with both the rest of the case and the bracelet finished with restrained, gentle brushing. That’s not to say the watch isn’t excellently finished, however, and the vertical brushing on each side of the octagonal bezel — over a surface barely more than a millimeter high — reinforces the ultra-premium feel of the watch overall. In order to preserve the strength of the shape on the wrist, the crown is small and deeply recessed, and the crystal is completely flush with the bezel.

Of course, any discussion of a Genta watch design isn’t complete without its bracelet, and the IWC Yacht Club II’s is a suitably crisp and restrained affair. The defining characteristic of this integrated stainless steel bracelet is its broad, oversized rectangular end links. While they may not be as distinctive a visual hallmark as the Royal Oak’s twin polished end links, these links reinforce the simpler, more subdued geometric character of the watch overall, and help the bracelet wrap impressively well around the wrist. From there, the bracelet takes on a flat tapering H-link shape, but without the rounded, raised center links of the Ingenieur or the Patek Philippe Nautilus. This flatter form and the fully brushed finishing here resonate well with the Yacht Club II’s quieter, more gentlemanly approach to integrated design, but some fans might find it oversimplified compared to Genta’s more famous integrated bracelets.

Like the case and bracelet, the dial of the IWC Yacht Club II takes on many of the hallmarks of classic Genta design in a quieter, subtler way. For example, the black dial here is textured, but in a far less overt way than the Royal Oak’s tapisserie or the Nautilus’ “deck planks.” Instead, IWC uses a complex, slate-like naturalistic stone texture, allowing for a myriad of minute highlights and shadows across the matte surface. The rest of the dial is elegantly straightforward, with pointed applied indices matched by sharply faceted pencil hands. While the tritium lume application here is minimal, it has aged to a creamy light khaki tone that suits the off-black hue of the dial handsomely.

Like most examples of the IWC Yacht Club II, this particular reference 3312 example is equipped with the brand’s own Caliber 2250 quartz movement. At the time of its introduction, quartz was still a novel, high-tech segment of watchmaking, and Caliber 2250 models actually retailed for more than their automatic-powered counterparts. Even today, the Caliber 2250 is an excellent example of early Swiss luxury quartz horology, with quality construction and respectable accuracy.

There has never been, and there might never be, another watch designer who commands the kind of reverence from both enthusiasts and industry insiders that Gérald Genta does. While multitudes of other designers and brands have taken their attempts at the sort of integrated sports designs he helped to pioneer, few of these show the same effortless balance and fanatical attention to detail that Genta’s work portrays. The late ‘70s IWC Yacht Club II is stylish, gentlemanly proof of this “Genta magic” in action, with a more relaxed, subtle flair than many of his more industry-shaping works. Even in quartz guise, it’s a highly sought-after piece among vintage collectors, and it’s a powerful reminder of the joys to be found by looking beyond Genta’s biggest icons.

Review IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

IWC Schaffhausen  and  Orlebar Brown have announced back in July their collaboration piece, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” . Due to the travelling and general restriction imposed by the infamous COVID19, I have seen the watch in the metal just at the end of August. Even if the summer is over, the “Orlebar Brown” Portugieser Yacht Club deserves to be presented – a lovely addition in the Portugieser Collection and a nice collaboration. 

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

I loved this watch from its digital launch. So I was very happy to finally get to see it at IWC Geneva Boutique during the Geneva Watch Days. The watch looks much better in the metal than the pictures reveal so if you are interested, I recommend to see it live.

Portugieser at heart, Portugieser in the look

The Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is one of those more special Portugieser – while keeping the known general aspects, some details are personalised by the Orlebar Brown collaboration.

The watch comes in a large 44.6 mm stainless steel case. Its dimensions are not obvious, the Edition “Orlebar Brown” wearing, as all the Portugieser large pieces, smaller than expected.

The case is designed to fit comfortable a large variety of wrist sizes. The caseband integrates the inward bent lugs. Even the brushing is extended on the lugs’ sides for a homogenous look. The rest of the surfaces are mirror polished. The strap integration is realised without any empty spaces.

The IWC Probus Scafusia decorated crown is surrounded by a raised polished crown protection. The protection bump also integrates the chrono pushers. The pushers have a wide but relatively thin topper. The entire appearance is nicely designed. The case details are quite handsome.

One of the eye-catching details of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is the strap. The blue rubber strap with textile inlay looks charming and offer very comfortable wear. It contributes to the smaller wear of the elegantly-proportioned case.

The buckle bears the sign of the IWC and Orlebar Brown collaboration deeply engraved in the metal. This buckle offers a secure sit on the wrist and it is a nice combination for the watch and strap.

A dial inspired by sea and sailing

The IWC Yacht Club “Orlebar Brown” has a gorgeous dial combining bleu-marine, white and red. With a vertical layout, the watch has a handsome face. The 12 o’clock areal presents the 60 minutes and 12 hours chronograph totaliser. The stepped down sub-dial presents two registers: the minutes counter on a circular pattern with white and red printing; the hours’ counter is central with printing on a flat surface. The elements are well delimited and offer good legibility. The chronograph’s seconds indication is realised with a central red hand that runs against the white inner bezel with blue printing.

The time display uses central hours and minutes elongated leaf hands with skeletonised centre and SuperLuminova fill. The hours’ indexes have double representation: applied metal Arabic numeral with the Portugieser known font and short baton indexes with SuperLuminova fill – another rather familiar detail. The minutes use a white printed railtrack that can also serve as an indication for the central chrono hands for an ease in legibility.

The lower side of the dial, at 6 o’clock, presents the running seconds. The subdial is subtly recessed and it is decorated with a circular pattern in the same granulation as the one met at the chrono’s minutes’ counter. The indexes and numerals are printed in blue. The date is printed in black on a white background and can be easily observed via a windowed aperture, as part of the small seconds’ dial.

As additional decoration, the dial of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” bears the name of the brand at 3 o’clock and the “Yacht Club” name at 9 o’clock. The Swiss-made marking is displayed at 6 o’clock as a break in the minute’s railtrack.

Calibre 89361 – a classic IWC movement

The Orlebar Brown Yacht Club is powered by the impressive Calibre 89361. This automatic movement powered by a 4Hz balance wheel offers an impressive set of features like the flyback chrono, hacking seconds, quick set date and a long power reserve of 68 hours due to its double barrel design and bi-directional winding.

Calibre 89361 is used in several IWC families for chronographs: Ingenieur, Da Vinci, Aquatimer , Pilot and, of course, Portugieser . The movement uses a double-clutch design with a vertical clutch for coupling and a column wheel for actuation. The combination of the two decreases the wear of the gear train with an increase of reliability over time. The system also helps the overall chronometry by decreasing the loss of amplitude by the chrono’s activation. Looking at the winding mechanism, I was wondering if this is the four pawl system patented by Jean-Francois Mojon and Norberto Perucchi fifteen years ago?

The movement does not particularly excel on the finishes side. Mostly industrial but fine and well-executed, the adornment of the Calibre 89361 deserves a look through the exhibition case back.

It has the looks, it has the brains

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is a beautiful watch with a pleasant layout and nice colour scheme. The look can be overshadowed only by the technically impressive in-house movement, the Calibre 89361. The back offers a compelling view too.

Definitively, it has a sporty appearance. Regardless if worn as a daily driver, at the beach or by sailing, the watch offers comfortable wear even for smaller wrists.  I have an 18cm/7inch wrist and I usually tend to stop at a diametre of 41-42mm. But I didn’t realise how big the watch actually is. So a strong point for a small wrist to give it a chance.

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” Technical Specifications and Price

REF. IW390704

• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds
• Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
• Flyback function
• Date display
• Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
• Small hacking seconds
• 89361 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic, self-winding
• 68 hours Power Reserve
• Frequency 28800.0 vph (4.0 Hz)
• 299 Components
• Côtes de Genève, perlage
• Stainless steel case
• Diameter 44.6  mm
• Height 14.3  mm
• Screw-in crown
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water-resistance 6 bar
• Blue dial with luminescence
• Blue rubber strap with textile inlay
• Strap width 22 mm
• 11.800 € , Price includes taxes and shipping.

Share this:

Leave a reply cancel reply.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed .

• Found on the Internet
• The vintage cabinet

Copyright © 2024 Watch I Love Media

The fastest and most secure way to protect the watches you love.

We've minimized the paperwork and maximized protection, so you can stop worrying about your watches and focus on enjoying them.

In most cases, you'll get a personalized quote in seconds and your policy kicks in immediately.

Wherever you are on planet Earth, your watches are protected. Rest easy and travel safely.

If you suffer a covered loss, there's no deductible and no gimmicks. Ever.

Each of your watches is covered up to 150% of the insured value (up to the total value of the policy).

Our quotes are based on historical sales and real-time market data allowing us to give fair prices without all the hassle.

Popular Searches

HODINKEE Radio Jonathan Ferrer, Founder Of Brew Watches

Introducing MoonSwatch + Snoopy! The Omega x Swatch 'Mission To The Moonphase' Has Landed

In-Depth Swiss High Court Rules On Lawsuit Between Rolex And Customizer Artisans de Geneve

Editors’ Picks

How To Wear It The Cartier Tank Cintrée

In-Depth Examining Value And Price Over Time With The ‘No Date’ Rolex Submariner

Watches In The Wild The Road Through America, Episode 1: A Model Of Mass Production

Introducing The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide

A nautical theme to the extreme..

If you're going to make a watch line up dedicated to the yacht club – which IWC established as a subset of the Portugieser in 2010 – a tide-indicating complication only makes natural sense. (The name was first used, of course, in 1967, for a watch intended to be an all-weather but still club-elegant sports watch.) So, 10 years into the Yacht Club family line, IWC has just announced the new reference IW344001 Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide. Presented in red gold with a shining blue dial and a matching blue rubber strap, this new Portugieser certainly looks the part while debuting IWC's newly developed tide-following complication. 

First things first, with a 44.6mm wide case, the Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide is as large as it is pretty. The Yacht Club line has always done a good job of communicating a blend of both sport and elegance. While the use of a gold case on the Yacht Club Moon & Tide is decidedly foncy, the blue rubber strap does a nice job of striking a boat-ready balance. I especially like the red dial details, the clarity of the overall display, and the splash-ready 30 meters of water resistance. 

Using a newly-developed caliber 82835 manufacture movement, the Yacht Club Moon & Tide offers a brand new feature set that expands upon the dual hemisphere moon phase display that IWC has made strong use of with many of their perpetual calendar models. With a minimal addition of text surrounding the moon phase display, the Yacht Club Moon & Tide also notes the strength of the tides by making a differentiation between spring and neap tides. 

Combine that slight moon phase modification with a novel tide timing indication at six o'clock, and you've got a $34,000 IWC that can help you to better manage the ebb and flow of the tides. While not many of us need a watch that can offer such information, the complication feels both right at home within the Portugieser Yacht Club line up and a fittingly nautical way of saluting the Yacht Club on its 10th anniversary. 

Brand: IWC Model: Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide Reference Number: IW344001

Diameter: 44.6mm Thickness: 14.4mm Case Material: 18k 5N pink gold Dial Color: Blue Indexes: Applied, gold   Lume: Yes. Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Blue rubber strap 

Caliber: 82835 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, moon phase for both hemispheres, and an indication of next high and low tide Power Reserve: 60 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 22 

Price: $33,100 Availability: TBD

For more, click here.

Introducing The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton

By Stephen pulvirent

Introducing The Vacheron Constantin La Musique du Temps Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph 'Tempo'

By Jack forster

Introducing The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph

By James stacey

Introducing The Panerai Luminor Marina '70 Years Of Luminor' Collection (PAM 1117, 1118, & 1119)

Top Discussions

Introducing The 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Is Back – Now In Titanium Or Rose Gold – And It's Really Good (Live Pics)

Watching Movies Sigourney Weaver Battles The Xenomorph Wearing A Custom Double Casio F-100 In 'Alien'

Hands-On Spending Some Quality Time With The Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve

Last Week’s Top Stories

Introducing Rolex Quietly Announced A New Day-Date 40 In Everose Gold For The 2024 Academy Awards

By Danny milton

Watch Spotting At The 96th Annual Academy Awards

By Malaika crawford

Hands-On The Nodus x Raven Trailtrekker

Hands-On Gold And Titanium Meet With The 38mm ‘The Citizen’ LE – A Most Surprising Watch

Photo Report A Few Favorite Watches From Italy's Parma Antique Fair

By Mark kauzlarich

IWC Schaffhausen

Check watch compatibility

• My Collection
• Address Book
• VIEW ALL WATCHES
• PILOT’S WATCHES
• PORTUGIESER
• IWC GREEN EDITIONS
• Chronograph Watches
• Colored Ceramics
• TRADE IN / PRE-OWNED
• PAST COLLECTIONS
• STRAPS AND BRACELETS
• STRAP FINDER
• STRAP MATERIALS
• EASX-CHANGE® SYSTEM AND QUICK-CHANGE
• TRACE YOUR STRAP
• BUCKLES & CLASPS
• IWC X SBTG CREATE LIMITED EDITION WATCH STRAP
• OUR MANUFACTURE
• INTRODUCTION TO OUR HISTORY
• IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN MUSEUM
• COMPLICATIONS
• INNOVATIVE MATERIALS
• SWISS LUXURY WATCHES
• INTRODUCTION TO OUR COLLECTION
• THE JOURNAL
• PARTNERSHIPS
• WEB3" target="_self" title="IWC <> WEB3 - (new window)" class="link rcms_headermenuitems " data-tracking-menucat="Menu" data-watch-finder-path="/content/iwc/americas/us/en/watches"> IWC <> WEB3
• IWC NEWS AND EVENTS
• SCREENSAVERS & WALLPAPERS
• OUR APPROACH TO SUSTAINABILITY
• DISCOVER OUR SERVICES
• CARE ADVICE
• SERVICE TYPES
• SERVICE PRICE CALCULATOR
• EXTEND YOUR WARRANTY
• FIND A STORE
• MAKE AN APPOINTMENT
• DISCOVER OUR BOUTIQUE SERVICES

Drag search component here only

Mon-Fri: 8:00AM - 8:00PM CST

• Send IWC an E-Mail We will reply within 24 hours Send IWC an E-Mail

Choose the closest IWC boutique and come visit us soon or visit our IWC service centres - we would be delighted to take care of your timepiece.

Schedule a visit at the boutique of your choice.

Your feedback is important to us. Share it with us here.

Shopping Bag

SIGN INTO IWC

Please sign in here by entering your email address and your password

Register online now to personalize your account, receive updates or catalogues, manage your orders and wish lists.

Type in the key words

Explore the collections.

Pilot’s Watches

Portugieser

Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

Stainless steel case, Automatic, self-winding, Diameter 44.6 mm, Blue dial with luminescence, Stainless steel strap, Strap width 22.0 mm.

IWC Sustainability

IWC Schaffhausen goes beyond engineering precision timepieces to ensuring we do so in a responsible and sustainable way - ENGINEERING BEYOND TIME

Watch Details

• Stainless steel case
• Diameter 44.6 mm
• Height 14.3 mm
• Screw in crown
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water resistance 10.0 bar

• 89361 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic, self-winding
• 68 hours Power Reserve
• Frequency 28'800 VPH (4 Hz)
• 299 Components
• Côtes de Genève

• Central hacking seconds
• Small hacking seconds
• Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
• Date display
• Flyback function
• Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds

Care For Your Watch

Complete Service

It involves a full overhaul of the timepiece and is a complex, largely manual task that takes several hours.

HOW-TO TIPS

Learn how to clean your watch, wind it and more in our six-part “How To…” video series.

OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS

Exclusive service.

SHIPPING & DELIVERY

Standard: 5-7 business days* Express: 2 business days* Urgent: next business day **

You may also choose to pick-up your purchase in one of our selected Boutiques, which can be chosen during the checkout. In this case, you will be notified by email when your order is ready for collection.

30 days, Phone only, Exc. Custom items, Gifts over phone only, ret/exch. Shipping fees: IWC

FIND A BOUTIQUE

Would you like to visit us? Find the IWC boutique or service centre that is closest to your location.

EXTENDED WARRANTY

Register to become a member of my IWC and benefit from a 6-year extension to the standard 2-year international limited warranty.

Thanks to its ruggedness and water-resistance, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is the perfect companion on deck and ashore.

As a nautical sports watch, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph combines timeless elegance with ruggedness and a 6 bar water-resistance. These characteristics make it an extremely versatile timepiece that exudes a beautiful figure both on water and on land. The filigree bezel and flat case ring lend the stainless-steel case with its 44-millimetre diameter expressly elegant proportions. The dial of this sporty chronograph impresses with typical Portugieser design features such as the characteristic minute scale and the appliquéd Arabic numerals. This model combines a blue dial with rhodium-plated hands and appliqués. The IWC-manufactured 89361 calibre with flyback function displays the stopped times combined in a single totalizer at "12 o’clock" and features a power reserve of 68 hours. The high-quality stainless-steel bracelet with polished and satin-finished surfaces ensures a perfect fit on the wrist.

Accessories

A large variety of accessories to personalize your watch.

Recently Viewed

Get in touch

Our Concierge will be happy to help you complete your purchase, find out availability in our boutiques or answer any questions

Or send us a message through our online form.  

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club has received a tasteful update for 2020. The new additions to the brand’s portfolio include three new versions of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph as well as the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide which features IWC’s newly developed tide indication.

The IWC Portuguiser (formerly called the IWC Portuguese) has always exhibited a genteel, elegant and formal character.

In 2010, the Schaffhausen-based brand unveiled the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club, an overtly sporty design when contrasted with its siblings. The crown nestled between the sturdy shoulders of a crown protection device, the central chronograph seconds hand was presented in a vivid shade of red and the black, textured rubber strap did not look afraid of getting its hair wet.

Image – IWC Portugieser Yacht Club (2010)

Unusually, the dial was endowed with a subdial at noon, combining both hour and minute chronograph registers. In addition, the chronograph was equipped with a flyback function and featured an exhibition case back. The 2010 model was housed in a stainless steel case with a choice of silver or black dials. Furthermore, a red gold version was also available with a becoming ardoise dial.

Despite its action hero toughness, the Portugieser Yacht Club has always been a handsome, sophisticated chap. Its notable allure led the watch brand to subsequently release the Volvo Ocean Race 2011-2012, with a carbon-style dial, as well as a Laureus model in 2013 with a blue sunray dial.

Now, the luxury marque has unveiled new versions of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club for 2020. The line-up includes a chronograph, available in three colourways with each version paired with a metal bracelet. In addition, IWC has unveiled a wholly new complication for the maritime-themed watch, a tide indication. Rest assured, the bewitching looks of the 2010 model remain alive and well with several design elements of the former model being carried over to these latest models.

The brand’s press release

Since 2010, the Portugieser Yacht Club has brought a sporting note to the family. As a nautical sports watch, it combines timeless elegance with ruggedness and high water-resistance. These characteristics make the Yacht Club an extremely versatile watch that cuts a fine figure both on water and land. Two eye-catching features in the new models are the filigree bezel and flat casing ring. Together, they lend the case, with its 44-millimetre diameter, particularly elegant proportions.

The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide (Ref. 344001) is the first watch from IWC to sport the newly developed tide indication. A subdial at 6 o’clock indicates the expected times for the next high and low tide. The double moon phase display at 12 o’clock has been enhanced to show spring and neap tides and thus provides information about the strength of the current tides. Spring tides, which bring particularly high water, occur at full moon and new moon.

IWC has also launched the 3rd generation of the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Ref. 3907). Featuring a 44 mm case this nautical sports chronograph combines timeless elegance with high robustness and a water-resistance of 6 bar. All three models offer highly ergonomic metal bracelets in either stainless steel or steel and 18-carat 5N gold.

Ticking away inside these watches is the IWC- manufactured 89361 calibre. It displays the stopped hours and minutes in a single totaliser at 12 o’clock. Thanks to its flyback function, the stopwatch hands can be returned to zero simply by pressing the reset button, and a new timing sequence starts immediately. The automatic winding builds up a power reserve of 68 hours. The movement can be viewed through the transparent case back.

Further reading

https://www.iwc.com/

Club ADRENALIN - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024)

• Fri - Sat 10:00 PM - 6:00 AM
• (5.81 mi) Inn Aquarel
• (6.25 mi) Elektrostal Hotel
• (5.21 mi) Yakor Hotel
• (7.91 mi) Apelsin Hotel
• (8.45 mi) Ozero Ponti
• (0.03 mi) Semeyny Ochag
• (1.67 mi) Sloboda Cafe
• (9.78 mi) Restaurant Khalif
• (4.24 mi) Restaurant Globus
• (4.54 mi) Cafe Antresole