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• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Ultra Fairleads and Soft Padeyes

If a line does not approach a cam cleat close to level, the line may slip out or be hard to cleat or release. If a line approaches a winch too low, there is excessive friction, and if too high, the resulting overrides can be simply annoying or hard to release and downright dangerous. A fairlead corrects the angle.

Fairleads range from a simple fixed eye like the Ronstan Narrow Saddle screwed to the deck, or ball bearing genoa car. We have been tweaking the leads on our test boat and thought we would try a few DIY versions of the high-tech Dyneema fairleads we see on racing boats. We wondered if our DIY versions might make sense for budget-conscious cruisers. One obvious appeal of these new fairleads is that they are soft. And some types require no fasteners. A leak-proof fairlead that won’t break a toe? We were intrigued.

We first saw glued-on Dyneema lashing points on dinghies and kayaks, where a few grams saved here and there actually matter. Then they began appearing on racing keelboats, where their massive strength made sense. Lately, we have seen them on the cabin tops of high-end cruising catamarans, where they are used as lashing points for awnings and window covers. For securing deck hardware like blocks and deck gear, a stainless-steel padeye has long been the standard for cruising boats, but we began to see several advantages of Dyneema padeyes for cruising sailors.

We think of a padeye as a sort of U-bolt secured to the deck with 2-4 bolts. But with Dyneema, it is a single loop inserted through a single hole, and secured by epoxy and splayed fibers (see “Making Your Own Dyneema Padeye”). Sometimes the loop is secured by a stopper knot.

If the padeye is to be glued down, the edges of the hole through the baseplate should be chamfered slightly, smoothed, and coated with epoxy to reduce chafe.

Our testing suggests that as long as these fiber loops are mounted in solid glass or well-backed, they are about 50 percent as strong as the line they are made from. The only downside is that the line will suffer from UV damage and the expected useful life is only about 10 years (unless made sufficiently over strength).

Although off-the-shelf varieties can be expensive, a DIY glue-on loop is relatively cheap to make. These loops are especially useful for securing awnings, or for permanent tie-down points for light gear on decks.

Some manufactured Dyneema padeyes use two components­—a through deck fitting and a matching bushing that threads into it. The Colligo CS-31 and Antal T-Lock are examples of this (see adjacent photos). A knot or a toggle secures the Dyneema loop to the bushing. (Any of the common soft-shackle stopper knots will work for this purpose; a diamond knot is the common.) The bushing is then threaded into the through-deck fitting. These through-deck fittings must be well-sealed with bedding compound; some have watertight caps to prevent water ingress.

CHAFE COVERS

For added UV resistance, you could add a Spectra sleeve over the Dyneema loop. On the DIY padeye, this cover can extend down into the baseplate hole and help capture the Dyneema loops (see photos page 9). You could also use a covered rope like New England Ropes WR2 instead of 12-plait single braid.

STICK-ON PADEYES

Light duty padeyes can easily be made by mounting the loop in the center of a fiberglass disk. Bevel the edges and paint. But the working load will be limited by both the secondary bond to the deck and the bond between the core and the deck skin. Only use these for light duty.

LASHING RINGS TO STANCHIONS

Some fairleads don’t need a padeye. You can simply lash the low friction ring to existing hardware. For example, roller furler line fairleads are commonly attached to stanchions. You can just as easily lash a low friction ring to the stanchion. The lashing requires basic marlinspike skills, but the consequences of misalignment are less than they are on more clamp-on fairleads, which can bend under eccentric loads. A stanchion can also be a good place to lash a floating fairlead.

DECK LEVEL FAIRLEADS

If the fairlead must be right on the deck, you can make a bolt-down fairlead as described in “Making Your Own Dyneema Low-Profile Padeye” sidebar. It wasn’t a lot of work, but there are a lot of off-the-shelf options as well. The two-component through-deck Dyneema fittings using a bushing are ideally suited for this purpose. You could also just drill a hole and secure a Dyneema loop under the deck with a knot—taking care to seal it well, of course.

FLOATING FAIRLEADS

In some cases, the best fairlead location may be floating in space, a few inches or feet above the deck. We considered using a bolt-on fairlead and a cam cleat to manage the inhauler for a new reacher, but noticed two problems. The hardware would take over a favorite helming position on the coaming. And adjusting the line in brisk winds would require the help of a winch.

A floating lead and a nearby winch provided an elegant solution. Instead of bolting on more hardware, we secured a low-friction ring lashed into a loop to the trampoline lacing, just a short distance below the winch. When not in use, this floating lead lies on the tampoline, out of the way. If the tramp lacing, or some other existing hardware had not been conveniently located to attach our new floating lead, then we would have considered adding a Dyneema loop padeye.

We tested two samples of our DIY Dyneema padeye in shear (see “How We Tested,” page 10). The lighter sample was built from 3/16-inch Amsteel (5,400 pounds minimum breaking strength) and 3/16-inch pre-cast fiberglass, and the heavier sample was built with ¼-inch Amsteel (8,600 pounds minimum breaking strength) and ¼-inch pre-cast fiberglass. Neither showed any sign of strain at the test rig limit of 5,400 pounds (the minimum breaking strength of the climbing carabiner used for the test).

We recommend a working load of no more than 20 percent of the line breaking strength (about 1,080 and 1,720 pounds respectively) to allow for uneven stress distribution among the fibers. The fiberglass should be solid and at least equal in thickness to the Dyneema cord. If the deck is cored, remove an unusually large area of core and fill with fiber reinforced epoxy, and use a bonded fiberglass backing plate. Alternatively, you can use a deck bushing product. These are strong, expensive, and the cord is replaceable.

DECK BUSHING PRODUCTS

Most race boats have cored decks, and so core sealing is required for all penetrations and reinforcement for any significant load. A bushing will still need to be sealed, but the load is spread by the bushing. Additionally, the Dyneema cord can be replaced, since it is generally secured by a stopper knot on the inside. There will be some sealant around the Dyneema to reduce leaks and hold it in place. These types tend to be expensive, but not more than stainless padeyes of similar load rating. Benefits are less weight and less hardware on deck.

GLUE-ON PRODUCTS

The Ropeye XS and XSS are glued on to the deck with epoxy, so the working load depends upon the secondary bond strength of epoxy, which is greater than 2000 psi on gelcoat. However, the bond between the deck’s outer skin and core is weaker, typically 300-1000 psi. So to avoid pulling the skin away from the core, stick-on padeyes should be limited to a working load of about 100 pounds.

If the deck or attachment point is solid laminate, you can increase the working load to 300-400 pounds. However, if you have no core to worry about sealing, you might as well just drill a hole, splay or knot the end of your Dyneema loop, and have a fitting that is 4-5 times stronger than any stick-on padeye, and easier to replace.

You can also glue a conventional padeye to the deck by first bolting it up to a fiberglass pad. Drill the holes and countersink on the backside of the pad, screw the machine screws up through the fiberglass pad and into the padeye. Put the nuts on the top (acorn nuts give it a clean finish). Glue the whole padeye and fiberglass pad down on the deck. See also “Glue-on Mounts,” PS July 2017.

Dyneema typically loses about 3-5 percent of its strength per year in tropical sun, with 6-10 years being a practical life expectancy. Chafe will be a factor in padeyes (avoid direct attachment to metal hardware with sharp edges) but not in the low friction ring applications. To replace Dyneema that has been glued in, you’ll need to drill it out.

ADVANTAGES OF ‘SOFT’ PADEYES

Dyneema padeyes offer many advantages. If the loop is a few inches long, the padeye can twist and turn to align with the load, so you rarely need swivels. Soft padeyes won’t stub your toe.

Done properly, a soft padeye can’t leak and it’s doubtful you’ll need to re-bed it during its useful life. What about lashing points, where you would normally add a padeye, but would rather not have something hard to sit on or step on barefoot? Soft padeyes are ideal for securing cockpit cushions—we’ve never had much luck with snaps.

CONCLUSIONS

We’re still learning what Dyneema and low friction rings are good for, not only for racing boats, but also for cruising boats. When I first saw Dyneema padeyes, I worried that UV and chafe would doom them to a short life, but given the strength and durability of Dyneema, this may not be so accurate. Even if weight means little to you, simplicity, durability, and less hardware banging around are all good things.

ANTAL, www.antal.com

COLLIGO, www.colligomarine.com

HARKEN, www.harken.com

ROPEYE, www.ropeye.com

RONSTAN, www.ronstan.com

SUNCOR, www.suncorstainless.com

WICHARD, www.wichardamerica.com

We liked the 3-D leads we installed for our genoa so much we decided the reacher needed the same treatment. This time we were only interested in inhauling. Because you don’t typically reef a reacher (you roll it up and use the jib), there is no need to adjust the fore-aft lead position.

First, we decided to try a cam cleat. Because the inhaul line would rise at a 20-degree angle, we needed a low-profile fairlead, like a typical bolt-on deck fairlead, but we decided to base ours on a low friction ring. We’ve worn through a good many plastic fairleads, and fairleads with stainless liners aren’t particularly low friction and don’t tolerate large angles well. We had low-friction rings left over from an unrelated project, some Dyneema scrap, and fiberglass scrap, so our new fairleads would be practically free. Besides that, we thought they would be fun to make.

LOW FRICTION FAIRLEAD STEP-BY-STEP

1. Drill two holes about 1/32-inch larger than the Dyneema cord.

2. Countersink from the underside about ¾-inch to provide room for the splayed fibers. A slight chamfer on the top side as well may help with stress distribution and wear, and will also add room for epoxy sealing.

3. Thread the Dyneema through the holes and snug the low-friction ring into the loop.

4. Unlay the Dyneema fibers into the countersunk area.

5. Mix your epoxy for gluing. West System G-Flex epoxy is recommended, because it bonds to the Dyneema rope better than standard epoxies and because it is tough and flexible.

6. Spread the epoxy in the countersink pocket, and splay and press the fibers into it. Apply more adhesive over the fibers, and work it into the fibers, like wetting out fiberglass. If you are doing this is through the deck and not into a fiberglass plate, make certain the fibers penetrating the deck are well wetted out and flood with a surplus of epoxy to make it watertight. Allow the epoxy to thicken.

7. When the epoxy is nearing gel state, tension the loop and press the fibers into the recess.

8. After full cure, sand the bottom smooth.

9. Paint your new padeyes and install them with sealed through-bolts. You can also just glue the rope through the deck if you have access from below deck. We could have glued the rope through the deck and dispensed with the separate mounting plate for our own project, but we didn’t have good access from belowdecks. Made from 5 mm Amsteel, our new padeyes are vastly over strength for our purposes (a maximum of about 150 pounds working load), so we’ll never have to replace them. It’s easy to over-engineer with Dyneema.

THE WEDGE FACTOR

Common sense says that bonding Dyneema with epoxy is unreliable, since it is made from polyethylene, which no adhesive can reliably bond to at high load. But anything that flares out the fibers, like a compression cable fitting on standing rigging, makes it impossible for the Dyneema to pull out without removing a big chunk of fiberglass with it. You are effectively creating an epoxy wedge that prevents the ropes slipping back into the hole.

A stopper knot can also work if all you need is a loop, but there are several reasons gluing is better. First, the epoxy seals the deck penetration, keeping out water. Second, the splayedstrands spread the load across the fiberglass. And finally, the splayed strands can be very low-profile if a small recess is provided. Most of the splayed strands can be sanded away, so long as the line and epoxy wedge under the hole remains intact.

To make our do-it-yourself Dyneema padeye, we splayed the fibers and bonded them to fiberglass laminate (see page 8) using thickened epoxy. Since polyethylene fibers are notoriously difficult to bond, we expected our DIY padeye would not support the same high loads of factory-made Dyneema padeyes.

However, because the epoxy creates a wedge that fills the voids, it still prevents the Dyneema from pulling out. In the accompanying images, our DIY 3/16-inch Dyneema sample is being tested to 5,400 pounds of load. Assuming a 5:1 safety factor, the padeye would be good for working loads up to about 1,000 pounds.

1. Despite crimping caused by low-radius turn around the carabiner on our dynanometer, the 3/16 Dyneema showed no signs of failure under 5,400 pounds of load.

VALUE GUIDE: PADEYES FOR DECK TIE-DOWNS OR RUNNING RIGGING

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What are these pad eyes for?

• Thread starter $tingy Sailor
• Start date Sep 3, 2013
• Catalina Owner Forums
• Catalina 22

$tingy Sailor

This is my first year with this boat and it has factory-looking pad eyes installed in the deck about a foot aft of the Genoa tracks. I've yet to figure out what they are for. Any ideas?  

pictures???  

I'm guessing to lead the jib sheets aft, after the jib lead blocks.  

Attached are pics of what I'm talking about, one on each side.  

Attachments

The boat probably had a bimini at one time  

I thought of that too but the previous owner who had it for its entire life except the first two years said nothing about one. I also have the original order form which doesn't mention a Bimini option. I guess it could have been a dealer installed option that didn't get handed down. Seems like an odd way to attach it, though.  

Clearly, those are for stubbing your toes!!!:cussing:  

One things for sure; thats not where the boarding ladder should be attached!  

Hi , they look like lifeline pad eyes to me but would check to make sure they are through bolts before I trusted them  

1 more vote for Bimini top. Look on top of the cabin. Are there similar padeyes there? Or are there holes that were sealed? The forward end of the bimini usually hooks up there. Thanks, Andrew  

No attachment points or filled holes on the top for a bimini, though I would like to get one. And the eyes are turned the wrong way to act as fairleads for the sheets between the blocks and winches. I thought maybe they were the original terminations for the lifelines and that the stern pulpit was added later but they are too far forward unless a previous owner replaced the original life lines with longer ones to reach the pulpit. It also makes some sense because the pulpit has a light mounting bracket built in but there's an original running light mounted below it on the transom. There's lamp cord running inside the pulpit tubing that isn't connected to anything below the deck. Anybody seen a first generation C-22 without a pulpit but with life lines? If so, where do they terminate aft?  

I doubt those would be strong enough to anchor lifelines. They were for some accessory. Still probably a Bimini. I have seen Bimini arrangements with 1 aft leg and a forward tie-down. There is no need for an anchor point as the tie-down can be hooked to anything: handrail, stanchion, etc. I would look at Biminis to put there! Thanks, Andrew  

The 22 in the marina next to me had lifelines that were attached to the deck about 18 inches aft of the rear stanchion. The attached photo shows a similar setup with lifelines attached to the deck rather than a stern pulpit. Looks to be about the same location as your mystery fittings.  

I think we have a winner! Thanks for the help. I owe ya one.  

Stu Jackson

I agree. That's the way our 1981 C22 was rigged, no pushpit.  

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Sailboat Padeyes

Padeyes are used on sailboats to attach a large number of parts. Padeyes for blocks and padeyes for other sailboat hardware are typically made from stainless steel. Folding Padeyes are useful for keeping a deck clean and keeping toes safe. Folding padeyes are great for tying dock lines, jack lines and other attachments that are temporary. Folding Padeyes can also be used to attach fenders and use as lifting points. One point to consider when adding folding padeyes to your sailboat is that they differ from conventional padeyes in that the load should be perpendicular to the hinge and bail instead of in line with it. The strongest positions are with the D-ring vertical or leaning towards the fold-down position, which focuses the load on the side anchored with two screws.

An important consideration when shopping for sailboat padeyes is the working load that will be applied by the block, wire or line that is attached to the padeye. When installing padeyes to the deck of your sailboat, it is important to use large washers, or even better a purpose-made backing plate.

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How to Install a Lifting Eye

• By Jim Hendricks
• Updated: March 24, 2017

If you keep your boat on a tidal creek, you know the importance of lifting eyes. These let you attach a cable to the bow (along with a bridle to the transom eyes) to hoist your boat with a pair of davits to keep the hull clean and prevent it from resting on the bottom at low tide. You can accomplish the same thing with a lift or sling hoist, but using lifting eyes is a common method, especially for boats that are less than 20 feet length overall.

Most boats come equipped with a pair of transom eyes as well as a bow eye in the stem, but not all boats have a suitable point for lifting the bow. It’s important that any lifting point is properly connected to the hull. Using hardware secured only to the deck can damage the hull-to-deck joint. Here is how to install a bow-lifting point using a kit supplied by Accon Marine, which includes a retractable 6-inch lifting cleat that will support a 4,000-pound load.

Accon president and owner Bernie Czipri provided guidance, but he also emphasized that if you feel uncomfortable with this DIY project, ask a servicing dealer to handle the installation.

Getting Started Skill Level: 3/5 Time to Complete: 3 to 4 Hours (approximately, per pad installation)

Tools and Supplies * Accon Marine Retractable Lifting Cleat Kit (includes stainless-steel retractable lifting-cleat assembly, sling, crossbar and 12-inch threaded connecting rod); $269.80, shop.acconmarine.com * 3/8-inch U-bolt-style stainless-steel bow eye (in case your boat is not equipped with one); $17.54, shop.acconmarine.com * Square edge * Marking pencil * Channel-lock pliers (to tighten connecting rod) * Four 1½-inch-long No. 10 oval-head self-tapping stainless-steel screws * Jigsaw with fine-tooth blades * Power drill and set of drill bits * Phillips screwdriver * Box/open-end wrench set * Head-mounted flashlight (for seeing better under the bow) * Marine bedding compound * Clean rags to clean up excess sealant

1. Bolt on the Sling Working inside the bow of the boat, remove the two nuts from the bolts of the bow eye. You might need to rebed the bow eye with fresh sealant after loosening it from the stem. After rebedding, place the sling over the two bolts of the bow eye, making sure the barrel of the sling is positioned at the top and that it angles away from the hull. Place the bow-eye backing plate over the sling, then thread the two nuts to the bow-eye bolts. Use a wrench to torque the bow-eye nuts securely.

2. Attach the Connecting Rod Place the crossbar inside the barrel of the sling, then insert one end of the 12-inch-long connecting rod between the straps of the barrel and thread it into the hole of the crossbar (keeping in mind that it has left-hand 5/8-11 threads). The rod will eventually need to thread for 1 inch into the crossbar, as well as 1 inch into the threaded hole at the base of the lifting cleat. If the rod is too short, order a replacement rod of the appropriate length, diameter and thread type from a dealer.

3. Find the Center Point The connecting rod must be vertical and perpendicular to the bow deck to allow for a straight upward pull when lifting. With the rod attached to the crossbar, use a square edge to position the rod at a 90-degree angle to the deck and mark this point. Then drill a small 1/8-inch hole upward through to the bow deck (making sure there are no obstructions). This hole marks the center point for installing the chamber for the lifting-cleat assembly.

4. Create the Cutout Using the supplied template, place it over the center point with the cleat aligned with the centerline of the boat. Mark the cutout and mounting holes. Use a jigsaw to create the cutout. Use a power drill to create the mounting holes. Bring the connecting rod up to the base of the lifting eye. Thread the rod into the base of the lifting cleat; as you do, it will also thread into the left-hand threads of the crossbar.

5. Bolt It Up Bed the topsides under the cleat with a marine sealant, then tighten the connecting rod, making sure it threads in at least 1 inch at each end. Screw the face of the lifting cleat to the deck. Wipe away any excess sealant. Make sure the connecting rod is in tight, and then tighten the nut against the base of the lifting cleat to prevent the connecting rod from backing out. Test to make sure the lifting cleat deploys and retracts fully and easily.

Quick Tips 1. The mounting surface for the face of the lifting cleat needs to be flat and horizontal. If it’s angled or curved, you will need to fashion a shim or spacer from a material such as King Starboard to create a suitable mounting surface.

2. The connecting rod might be too long, in which case you need to cut it to fit using a hacksaw. Leave the securing nut on the rod, making sure it is inside the cut. After making the cut, unscrew the nut to chase the threads and clean up any burrs.

• More: diy projects , How-To , Weekend Workbook

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Soft Padeyes – Light, Strong and Versatile

Published date: november 27 2018.

Several types of soft padeyes are now available on the market and are proving increasingly popular over traditional stainless steel padeyes. They all capitalise on the incredible strength to weight ratio and abrasion resistance of Dyneema® which offers a reliable, robust, flexible and safe termination.

So, what are the benefits of a soft padeye?

The benefits of a soft padeye are as follows:

• Super light weight with high strength - in comparison to stainless steel alternatives
• No corrosion
• Less noise – very important for long offshore legs in light winds
• Low profile
• Better load transfer into deck – carry higher load on the same surface
• Self-aligning with direction of load - reduces fatigue
• Quick, simple and removable – easy inspection and maintenance

Soft padeyes can be used anywhere a traditional stainless steel padeye would be used. Examples include: deck attachment points for blocks, sheet leads, in/outhauls and tie down points.

At the very basic level, DIY soft padeyes on dinghies and small keel boats are very quick and simple to achieve. A simple soft shackle which closes with a diamond knot can be fed through a small hole in the deck, coach roof or interior bulkhead to leave the loop exposed on the other side. For a fixed loop above deck you can leave the rope shackle open - as a loop with a diamond knot at the end. Or, with a longer shackle and a slightly bigger hole, it can be used to attach a block above deck, with the end of the loop passed back below deck and closed with a diamond knot for a very neat, flexible termination. Sealant can be used to fix the knot in place and fill the hole to prevent water ingress.

Ropeye also has a very convenient, low load option (50 kg SWL) for non-structural (mainly internal) attachment points. A Dyneema® loop (3mm line by 30mm long) is bonded in to a small carbon disk which can be glued/bonded onto any flat surface.

The Ropeye loop offers a very neat, low profile and professional alternative to the below deck termination. The Dyneema® loop is terminated in a carbon disk which can be lightly fixed in place, underdeck, with sealant. Add a through deck bushing to this (Ropeye PRO) and you have a very professional looking deck padeye solution, both inside and out, for relatively little cost.

The above solutions - which mainly use 4-6mm SK78 single braid Dyneema® loops -will provide super lightweight padeyes with a Safe Working Load (SWL) of up to approx. 2,000 kg. In addition, there is a range of options for fully watertight, soft padeyes for use with separate Dyneema® loops with working loads up to 7,000 – 10,000 kg.

With a few variations, these generally involve a two piece, anodized alloy, threaded through deck bushing with flanges above and below deck. The loop is terminated with a dogbone seated in the lower flange and an O-ring sealed cap provides a 100% watertight solution. Quick and simple removal of the loop allows regular inspection and maintenance.

"In low load applications, their uses are literally infinite. On race boats, you will find the glue-on variety holding up pipe-cots, toilet curtains, anchor and safety equipment lash points, rudder angle limiters and oilskin hangers – literally anything! Best of all, you can buy these off the shelf and you don't need to be a trained boat builder to install them. Follow the simple instructions and you are good to go!"

To conclude, soft padeyes are used extensively on race boats but are increasingly being used for cruising applications. Saving a significant amount of weight and being stronger than traditional stainless steel alternatives they offer lighter, faster and safer sailing – a win-win scenario for any sailing enthusiast.

If you have any questions about padeyes, please feel free to email us at [email protected] , or click the link below to see our full range:

  Phil Anniss  

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We are constantly reporting on the latest innovations in the marine industry which offer weight savings whilst, at the same time, increasing safety factors. The result: lighter, faster, safer and more exciting sailing.

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Stainless Steel Pad Eyes, U-Bolts & Eyebolts

Carbine Hooks, Rapid Links & Rings  |  Deck Eyes, Saddles, Lacking Hooks & Mast Plates  |  Drop Nose Pins  |  Pad Eyes, U-Bolts & Eyebolts  |  Shackles  |  Snapshackles & Swivels

Pad eyes, U-Bolts and Eyebolts are often used as points on your boat with which to secure or attach a variety of things such as Jackstays, blocks even docklines. 

Deck Pad Eyes come in two main types:

Fixed Pad Eye: Features a welded attachment hoop on a base plate, with a permanently raised profile. Available in round or rectangular shapes.

Folding Pad Eye: Equipped with a complete D ring attachment hoop that lies underneath a specially formed ridge in the base, allowing rotation or hinging. Ideal for areas with foot traffic to minimize tripping hazards.

U Bolts offer integral fixing with threaded ends, complete with backing plates, nuts, and washers. Perfect for distributing load between two points, they have a durable raised profile.

Eye Bolts feature a compact attachment eye, perfect for tight spaces. Complete with integral deck plate, threaded stud, and included nut and washer for easy installation.

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Padeyes are great for mounting blocks and are also used as attachment points for staysails, reefing blocks, and hundreds of other items. Folding padeyes keep your deck and passageways clear. They’re ready when you need to attach a snatch block or fender, but fold safely out of the way when you don’t. In-deck loop padeyes are recessed into the deck creating a discreet, low-profile design. Lightweight and compact, our padeyes work well with almost any soft attach block.

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fixed pad eye 2759

Padeyes are great for mounting blocks and are also used as attachment points for staysails, reefing blocks, and hundreds of other items. The 2759 is 316 cast stainless steel.

fixed pad eye 508-815

Weight: 75.00 g SWL: 1000 kg BRL: 2000 kg Fasteners: 2xM6 Dimension: Ø50 BlockMatch: PBB50 BBB60 MRB60 StandUp: 308-074 Comment: 2x MFT M6, L=3

articulated pad eye 508-750-01

Weight: 79.00 g SWL: 1100 kg BRL: 2200 kg Fasteners: 3xM6 Dimension: 42x42 Comment: 3x MFT M6, L=5

fixed pad eye 508-817

Weight: 264.00 g SWL: 3000 kg BRL: 6000 kg Fasteners: 4xM8 Dimension: Ø72 BlockMatch: PBB80 StandUp: 308-093 Comment: 4x MFT M8, L=5

fixed pad eye 66261L3

Stainless Steel Bow Eyes With Plated Nuts and Washers Bow eyes have twin shanks to prevent twisting. These rugged bow eyes , when transom-mounted, are ideal as ski tows.

fixed pad eye RFC2433-09

Certified to European Standard EN795:2012 Type A and Australian Standards AS1891.4:2009 & AS5532:2013. Screw-in lanyard attachment device can be removed from the base when not in use. Separate locking screw ensures that the screw-in ...

fixed pad eye PD/10C

High Strength and low weight Carbon deck plates Carbon backing plates High quality 17-4PH stainless steel Excellent strength to weight ratio Increased through laminate bearing surfaces to minimise tearing Significantly reduced ...

fixed pad eye 299040 series

... the pad eye is suitably aligned to the expected load. The load direction should be as close to perpendicular with the base as possible. This will maximise the working load of the pad ...

articulated pad eye HT60064545

HT60064545 (6mm) HT60064546 (6mm) HT60085961 (8mm) HT60010757 (10mm) HT60064587 (6mm) HT60085999 (8mm) HT60010751 (10mm)

fixed pad eye 6511

... counterplate Max tightening torque : 2.3 Nm Applications Various fastening applications: shrouds, lifelines, blocks… U-bolt pad eye - Dia: 4 mm - Length: 50 mm Materials - 316L stainless Steel ...

fixed pad eye R14.14

... rings, to guide maneuvers on the coachroof, Multi ring organizer which can replace organizers with sheaves and Dyneema pad - eyes , pad eyes for Dyneema lines suitable both ...

fixed pad eye SL10 SERIES

Quick coupling system; allows you to quickly attach fenders, awnings, etc. Made of 316L stainless steel. All components are CNC machined from bar. Ball coupling / release system. Locking piston of the base perfectly watertight through ...

fixed pad eye SL20M SERIES

Based on Smartlock standard device, it’s a quick lock / unlock system to install the tubes. Available in AISI316 stainless steel, mirror polished , or in silver or black anodized aluminium. The deck base is the same of the SL20P and SS20 ...

fixed pad eye SL20P SERIES

Removable, soft pad - eye based on the well-known and tested quick lock Smartlock. It is available in silver or black anodized aluminium and 316L stainless steel. Available in Titanium, on request. The ...

fixed pad eye 79A.I

Stainless steel mooring eyes Finish .I Stainless Steel Length 86 mm 105 mm 130 mm 140 mm

articulated pad eye E0300 series

Our Padeyes are made of high quality stainless steel. The padeyes are excellent for mounting blocks on deck or as attachment points for safety lines, staysails, reefing blocks, jibe preventors and many other application areas. They come ...

fixed pad eye 8265

Diamond ring pad eye Stainless steel A4 Dimensions disponibles : 5*60

fixed pad eye 8225

Eye plate Stainless steel A4 Dimensions at the bottom of the page

fixed pad eye 8368

Eye plate round type with thread in stainless steel A4 Supplied without nuts

fixed pad eye Pad-SX®

Nodus-Padeye® SX is the only adjustable textile padlock. Easy, fast and very simple to install, your Nodus-Padeye SX, will support up to 200 kg (without screws) Once fixed with the Nodus-Loc® bi-component glue. Reversible system for ...

fixed pad eye Pad-Race®

Padeye to be glued, the Nodus Pad -Race® is a pad - eye designed and developed by Nodus Factory so that the rope and the straps are removable. - Quick and easy to install, your Nodus ...

fixed pad eye Pad-Hook®

... Padeye Pad -Hook allows you to organize your onboard storage ? + USE - The Padeye Pad -Hook, once glued to the wall, the mast or the boom, keeps your ropes and halyards well coiled thanks to a textile ...

fixed pad eye

fixed pad eye 81XX series

fabric pad eye QUIK MOUNT Q26

Our flush deck quick-connect system offers various configurations and workloads for multiple uses, on sailboats , motorboats, and superyachts. From the smallest model, Q26, suitable for attaching fenders, ropes, and retainers; ...

quick release pad eye QUICK MOUNT Q32

Our flush deck quick-connect system offers a wide choice of configurations and workloads for multiple uses, on sailboats , motorboats, and superyachts. From the smallest model, suitable for attaching fenders, ropes, retainers ...

fixed pad eye 022-0M8

Double stainless steel eye -bolt AISI 316. �8mm, lenght 60mm. Breaking load 2800Kg. Easy and practicle to mount on your transom.

fixed pad eye 015-02LX

Size(M/A-B-L) 10-39-55mm Workload 2048Kg Breaking Load 6144Kg AISI 316 stainless steel U-bolts obtained by casting in a single piece. Great stability even with transverse stresses

fixed pad eye 015-03LX

AISI 316 stainless steel U-bolts obtained by casting in a single piece. Great stability even with transverse stresses

articulated pad eye AK1470

Folding Pad Eye (Tow-Piece Holding Body) *Material: SUS304

fixed pad eye AK2999

fixed pad eye AK321 series

fixed pad eye GS431 series

fixed pad eye 408500

V Bolts have a shape of a V at the top with a threaded bottom for nuts

fixed pad eye 34 series

U Bolts have a shape of a U at the top with a threaded bottom for nuts.

articulated pad eye 60304

... . Folding pad eye – stainless steel pad eye with anti-vibration rubber pad . Folds flat to deck when not in use. Double folding pad ...

articulated pad eye 814784 series

articulated pad eye 8266 series

fixed pad eye 814785 series

fixed pad eye 7635

U-BOLTS IN STAINLESS STEEL AISI 316 Obtained through stainless steel bar turned. Polished and supplied with two plates.

fixed pad eye L-PAD series

LOOP® PADEYES KOHLHOFF LOOP® Padeyes are through-deck fittings made of hard anodised aluminium. Both parts are screwed together to provide easy adjustment for different deck thicknesses. They are all fully water tight with an Acetal ...

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The U.S. bans most common form of asbestos, after decades of pushback from industry

Joe Hernandez

An asbestos warning sign is seen at Victoria Park in in Sydney, Australia on February 29, 2024. Jenny Evans/Getty Images hide caption

An asbestos warning sign is seen at Victoria Park in in Sydney, Australia on February 29, 2024.

The Environmental Protection Agency announced Monday that it is banning the most common form of asbestos, a cancer-causing substance that's linked to the deaths of tens of thousands of Americans every year.

The U.S. is prohibiting the use of chrysotile asbestos, joining more than 50 other countries that have already outlawed the substance. The ban comes after decades of pushback from companies that have used it in everything from consumer goods to manufacturing processes.

"The science is clear – asbestos is a known carcinogen that has severe impacts on public health," EPA administrator Michael Regan said in a statement . "This action is just the beginning as we work to protect all American families, workers, and communities from toxic chemicals."

People who inhale the tiny fibrous strands that make up asbestos can develop a slew of illnesses , including lung and ovarian cancer, asbestosis and mesothelioma. More than 40,000 deaths in the U.S. each year are connected to asbestos exposure.

Most consumer products that once contained the substance in the past no longer do, such as building materials and household appliances.

Appeals court clears the way for more lawsuits over Johnson's Baby Powder

But the EPA's ban targets certain products that still carry asbestos, including some gaskets and aftermarket automotive products. It also phases out the use of asbestos diaphragms by the chlor-alkali industry, which produces various chemicals.

Arthur Frank, a professor of environmental and occupational health at Drexel University, said the rule doesn't outlaw all forms of asbestos, and the substance still lurks in many existing buildings and products across the country.

"This is not a total ban by any means," Frank said. "It is a modest step that reduces future exposures."

Why it's taken so long for the EPA to outlaw asbestos

Federal regulators said Monday that the ban was the first rule to be finalized under the updated Toxic Substances Control Act, the national chemical safety law that was overhauled in 2016.

Previous attempts to prohibit the use of asbestos fell flat.

The EPA tried to ban asbestos outright in the late 1980s, but companies fought back. When the agency announced its 1989 prohibition on the use of asbestos, there was a carve-out for the chlorine industry.

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Then, two years later, a panel of federal judges deemed the rule too onerous and overturned it, scuttling for decades any additional attempts by the EPA to ban asbestos and other dangerous chemicals.

"An immediate ban on the import of chrysotile asbestos for the chlor-alkali industry is a long overdue step forward for public health," Sen. Jeff Merkley, D-Ore., said in a statement. "However, it cannot be the end of the road when it comes to phasing out other dangerous asbestos fibers, and Congress has a role to play here when it comes to providing stronger protections for our health."

What this ban will do

Though the use of asbestos in the U.S. has been on the wane, it hasn't vanished altogether.

The chlor-alkali industry uses large filters containing asbestos called diaphragms to make chemicals such as sodium hydroxide and chlorine, which can be used to disinfect drinking water and wastewater.

The EPA is immediately banning the import of chrysotile asbestos for the industry and requiring the eight chlor-alkali plants in the U.S. still using asbestos diaphragms to phase out their use.

Asbestos isn't required to produce chlorine, the agency noted, and two-thirds of the chlorine made in the U.S. is done so without the use of asbestos.

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Producers will have five years to transition from using asbestos diaphragms to ones that don't contain the substance. Those that shift from asbestos diaphragms to non-asbestos membrane technology will have five years to convert their first facility, eight years to convert their second and 12 years to convert their third.

The ban also prohibits the use of asbestos in certain products. Oilfield brake blocks, aftermarket automotive brakes and linings, and other vehicle friction products and gaskets will be barred from containing asbestos six months after the rule's effective date.

Sheet gaskets containing asbestos will also be outlawed two years after the effective date of the rule , though there will be exceptions when it's used to make titanium dioxide or for the disposal of nuclear material.