sailboats with wide beam

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• By Gregg Nestor
• Updated: December 8, 2009

The Nonsuch 30 was the idea of Canadian yachtsman Gordon Fisher. He and yacht designer Mark Ellis approached George Hinterhoeller to build this unique cruising catboat. Introduced in 1978, it gained wide acceptance in Canada and was soon popularized in the United States. Production ceased in 1994, with more than 500 hulls produced.

Ellis modified the traditional catboat hull, giving it a finer entry and carrying the maximum beam farther aft. Underwater, the fin keel and partially balanced spade rudder largely eliminate the considerable weather helm common to most catboats. And while the plumb bow and stern, distinctive sheer, and highly cambered coachroof also characterize the Nonsuch 30, its most prominent feature is the tall, tapered, unstayed mast with a wishbone boom.

Both the hull and deck are fiberglass composites cored with end-grain balsa. The deck lands on an inward-facing flange on the hull. The joint is through-bolted, sealed with butyl tape, and capped with an aluminum toerail. The external lead keel is attached with stainless-steel bolts that pass through floor timbers to distribute the loads throughout the boat’s hull.

Since there’s no mast in the cabin and the nearly 12-foot beam is carried well toward both ends, the Nonsuch 30 has much more interior volume than its length would suggest. For the first five years of the boat’s production, the cabin was laid out with opposing settees forward with a drop-leaf table between, a workable L-shaped galley, a large head compartment with shower, and quarter berths aft; the starboard one is a double. From around 1983, an optional cabin layout, called the “Ultra,” offered a stateroom with a double berth forward. The galley was to port, and the head compartment to starboard and the quarter berths were eliminated.

The sail is handled from the safety of the large cockpit. Running rigging consists of a main halyard, a mainsheet, and a choker line, which controls the fullness or flatness of the sail by adjusting the fore-and-aft position of the wishbone boom. The mast tends to bend to leeward when the wind freshens, which spills the wind from the sail and keeps the boat from being overpowered. Along with the wide beam and a 39-percent ballast-to-displacement ratio, this makes for a stable and forgiving boat.

The Nonsuch 30 won’t point as well as a sloop, but allowed to fall off a bit, it will make up for that with much greater speed: 7 to 8 knots in 15 to 20 knots of wind. The boat’s best point of sail is a beam to broad reach. Up to about hull number 125, a 23-horsepower Volvo MD11C diesel and saildrive provided auxiliary power. Later hulls received a 27-horsepower Westerbeke diesel and a conventional prop shaft. While both engines deliver adequate power, the later installation runs quieter, smoother, and is less prone to corrosion.

The Nonsuch 30 is a coastal cruiser. The generous cockpit and lack of a proper bridgedeck could cause some concern when a skipper considers extended offshore sailing, but its shallow draft and well-ventilated interior make it an ideal thin-water cruiser.

The rig is very simple, and there are few things to break. In addition to age-related problems typical in older boats, some areas to watch out for include the gate valves used as seacocks and cracks in the aluminum mast fitting where it passes through the deck.

Asking prices for Nonsuch 30s range from $35,000 to $85,000. With one sail, one halyard, and one sheet, it’s one easy boat to sail, especially for a shorthanded crew or a singlehander.

Gregg Nestor, who’s had a lifelong interest in all things aquatic, is the author of three books about sailboats.

LOA 30′ 4″ (9.24 m.) LWL 28′ 9″ (8.76 m.) Beam 11′ 10″ (3.61 m.) Draft 5′ 0″ (1.52 m.) Sail Area (100%) 540 sq. ft. (50.16 sq. m.) Ballast 4,500 lb. (1,372 kg.) Displacement 11,500 lb. (5,215 kg.) Ballast/D .39 D/L 216 SA/D 17.0 Water 80 gal. (302 l.) Fuel 30 gal. (113 l.) Engine 23-hp. Volvo w/ saildrive or 27-hp. Westerbeke Designer Mark Ellis Designer Ted Irwin

• More: 2001 - 2010 , 21 - 30 ft , Coastal Cruising , keelboat , monohull , Sailboat Reviews , Sailboats , sailboats classic plastic
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What's the Best Size of Sailboat for Coastal Cruising?

Size matters when it comes to sailboats, as with many other things. With sailboats, this will determine how comfortable your sailing experience will be or how many people you can bring along. If you're planning for coastal cruising and pondering what the best size sailboat is to make it a comfortable experience, this article can help you explore your options.

A sailboat between 30 and 40 feet is considered an ideal size for coastal cruising. Boats in this size range are large enough to offer comfortable accommodations for several people, yet small enough to be easily handled by a couple or a small crew. They are also more affordable than larger sailboats.

Monohulls and catamarans are the two most common types of sailboats used in coastal cruising, but there are many other types of sailboats you can choose from. Let's learn which other sailboats can be deemed suitable for this boating activity.

• For solo cruising, the best sailboat size is around 24 to 30 feet. If you're with your family or friends, opt for sailboats with a 35 to 45-foot range.
• The Sun Odyssey 349 is one of the most notable and multi-awarded cruisers due to its innovative design and exceptional performance. This 35-foot boat has a modern touch and can accommodate up to six people, making it an ideal choice for family vacations or weekend getaways with friends.
• While the best size for a cruising sailboat is within 30 to 40 feet, it should be comfortable, accommodating, easy to handle and maneuver, stable, and, of course, safe to sail.

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Choosing the right sailboat size for coastal cruising, types of sailboats for coastal cruising, specific sailboat models suitable for cruising, consider these when choosing the best sailboat size for cruising.

The size of your sailboat can determine how comfortable your sailing experience will be, how many people you can bring along, and whether or not you can sail alone. Here are some things to consider when choosing the right size of sailboat for your coastal cruising needs:

If you want to sail comfortably and have enough space to bring along some friends or family, a 30-foot sailboat might be the minimum size you should consider. This will give you enough room to move around and sleep comfortably, but you may have to sacrifice some amenities or storage space.

If you plan on sailing with your family, you may want to consider a sailboat in the 35-45 foot range. This will give you enough space to comfortably accommodate a family of four or five, with amenities like a galley, head, and storage space. However, keep in mind that larger sailboats can be more expensive to maintain and require more crew to operate.

If you plan on sailing alone, you'll want to choose a sailboat that is easy to handle and has enough space to accommodate your needs. A 24-30 foot sailboat can be a good choice for a solo sailor, as it is small enough to handle alone but still has enough space to be comfortable. Keep in mind that smaller sailboats may not be as stable in rough waters and may require more skill to operate.

Coastal cruising is an exciting way to explore the world by sea. It takes you from port to port along the coast, allowing you to explore different destinations and enjoy the beautiful scenery along the way. Your cruise can be a short one or a longer one, depending on your preferences.

You can choose to explore a specific region or travel along the entire coast. This water activity is ideal for those who want to experience the joy of sailing while also enjoying the comforts of a cruise ship.

Below are several types of sailboats available, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.

Monohulls and catamarans are the most popular for coastal cruising

Monohulls are traditional sailboats with a single hull, while catamarans have two hulls. Monohulls are known for their stability in heavy seas and their ability to sail upwind efficiently. On the other hand, catamarans are more stable at anchor and offer more living space.

Sloop is also ideal for coastal cruising

The sloop is the most common type of sailboat and is ideal for coastal cruising. It has a single mast, a mainsail, and a mainsail and jib. The sloop is easy to handle, making it a great choice for beginners. It is also versatile and can be used for day sailing or extended cruises.

Ketch offers more sail area which makes it good for coastal cruising

The ketch is a two-masted sailboat with a mainmast and a shorter mizzenmast. It is a popular choice for coastal cruising because it offers more sail area and better balance than a sloop. The ketch is also easier to handle than a schooner, making it a great option for solo sailors or small crews. If you plan to solo sail, you can find the best sailboats for solo sailing here .

Schooner is ideal for coastal cruising but will require a larger crew

The schooner is a two or more-masted sailboat with fore-and-aft sails on both masts. It is a classic sailboat design that is ideal for coastal cruising. The schooner has a large sail area, which makes it fast and efficient. However, it can be more difficult to handle than other types of sailboats, and it requires a larger crew.

There are a variety of sailboat models to choose from if you are planning coastal cruising. Here are a few specific models to consider, as well as their sizes:

Catalina 30 is perfect for longer trips to the sea

With its spacious interior and comfortable cockpit, Catalina 30 is perfect for weekend getaways or longer trips. The Catalina 30 has a moderate draft, making it suitable for shallow waters, and its sturdy construction provides a smooth ride in rough seas. This sailboat is also easy to handle, even for beginners.

The Beneteau Oceanis 38.1 is perfect for sailing in open waters

The Beneteau Oceanis 38.1 is designed to be fast and agile, making it perfect for sailing in open waters. It has a spacious interior with plenty of storage space, and its modern design provides a comfortable living space. This sailboat is also easy to handle, even for single-handed sailing.

The Hunter 36 can easily navigate through shallow water

The Hunter 36 is a versatile sailboat that is perfect for coastal cruising. With its shallow draft, this sailboat can easily navigate in shallow waters, making it ideal for exploring coastal areas. This boat has a spacious interior with plenty of headroom, and its large windows provide plenty of natural light. It is also easy to handle, even for beginners.

The Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 349 is a versatile cruiser equipped with advanced technology

The Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 349 is a popular sailboat model that has won numerous awards for its innovative design and exceptional performance. It is a versatile cruiser that can comfortably accommodate six or more people depending on the specific configuration and options chosen by the owner, making it an ideal choice for family vacations or weekend getaways with friends.

The boat features a spacious cockpit, a modern interior, and a sleek hull design that provides excellent stability and speed. It is also equipped with advanced technology, including a GPS navigation system and a high-performance sail plan, which makes it easy to handle and maneuver in different wind conditions.

Bavaria Cruiser 37 is a highly maneuverable sailboat suited for cruising

The Bavaria Cruiser 37 is a popular sailboat model that combines comfort, performance, and style. This boat has a spacious and modern interior with ample headroom, providing a comfortable living space for up to six people.

The boat's cockpit is also spacious and well-designed, with plenty of seating and easy access to the helm. It is also a highly maneuverable boat, with a responsive rudder and a powerful sail plan that allows for excellent speed and stability. It has advanced technology, including a GPS navigation system and a state-of-the-art engine, making it easy to handle and operate.

If you're looking for some of the best and cheapest beginner sailboats for ocean cruising, you can try reading this article .

Several factors to keep in mind when picking the best sailboat size include the following:

Check if the cabin is comfortable and accommodating enough

The sailboat should have enough space to accommodate you, your family, and any guests. The cabin space should be comfortable and spacious enough for movement when coastal cruising.

An aft cabin can provide privacy and a comfortable place to sleep for guests. Try to consider also if there's sufficient living space for dining, lounging, and socializing. Private spaces on board are also necessary for privacy and alone time.

You can check this article for a long list of cruising essentials which you may want to consider while choosing a sailboat.

Check if the sailboat is easy to handle and maneuver

A sailboat that is easy to handle and sail means it should be small enough that you can handle the sails on your own. A sailboat with a fin keel and a spade rudder is a good choice , as it will respond quickly to your commands and be easy to steer. You could also check if there is a roller furling jib and a lazy jack system for the mainsail as these will make handling the sails a breeze.

Maneuvering in tight spaces can be challenging, so you may want to consider having a sailboat that is easy to handle in close quarters. A sailboat with a bow thruster or a stern thruster will make docking and maneuvering in tight spaces much easier.

Opt for a sailboat with a wide beam and a short waterline that will be stable and easy to control, even in choppy waters. Additionally, a sailboat with a self-tacking jib will make handling the sails even easier , as you won't need to worry about adjusting the jib sheet.

Inspect for safety and stability

A sailboat that is not stable or seaworthy enough can put you and your crew at risk, especially when dealing with rough seas or unexpected weather conditions. You will need to look for sailboats with a good reputation for seaworthiness and make sure to inspect the boat thoroughly before purchasing.

While smaller sailboats may be more affordable and easier to handle, they may not be as stable as larger ones. On the other hand, larger sailboats may be more stable but can be more difficult to maneuver in tight spaces.

When it comes to hull type, a double-hulled sailboat (catamaran) is generally more stable than a single-hulled one . The wider the surface area, the more stable a boat will be.

Try to look for a sailboat with a heavier keel or more ballast as it tends to be more stable than one with a lighter keel or less ballast. However, the catch is that a heavier sailboat may not be as fast or as easy to handle as a lighter one.

Consider your crew and guests

When choosing the best sailboat size for coastal cruising, you may need to consider the number of crew and guests, sleeping arrangements, space on board, and experience level. The sleeping arrangements and space on board should be comfortable for everyone.

A sailboat between 25 and 35 feet is suitable for small crews or families, while a sailboat between 35 and 45 feet can accommodate more or less six people (depending on the layout and design of the boat) . If sailing with inexperienced crew or guests, a smaller sailboat is recommended, while a larger sailboat may be suitable for experienced sailors.

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You may also like, 13 best beginner sailboats with cabin (for any budget).

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The Ultimate Guide to Choosing Between a Sailboat or Catamaran for Your Sailing Adventures

C hoosing between a sailboat and a catamaran for your sailing adventures is a significant decision that depends on various factors, including your sailing preferences, experience level, budget, and intended use. Here's an ultimate guide to help you make an informed decision:

1. Sailing Experience:

• Sailboats: Typically require more skill and experience to handle, especially in adverse weather conditions. Ideal for sailors who enjoy the traditional feel of sailing and are willing to invest time in learning and mastering the art.
• Catamarans: Easier to handle, making them suitable for beginners. The dual-hull design provides stability, reducing the learning curve for those new to sailing.

2. Space and Comfort:

• Sailboats: Generally have a narrower beam and less living space. However, some sailboats may offer comfortable cabins and amenities.
• Catamarans: Wider beam creates more living space. Catamarans often have multiple cabins, spacious saloons, and expansive deck areas, providing a more comfortable living experience.

3. Stability:

• Sailboats: Monohulls can heel (lean) while sailing, which some sailors enjoy for the thrill but can be discomforting for others.
• Catamarans: Greater stability due to the dual hulls, providing a more level sailing experience. Reduced heeling makes catamarans suitable for those prone to seasickness.

4. Performance:

• Sailboats: Known for their upwind performance and ability to sail close to the wind. Some sailors appreciate the challenge of optimizing sail trim for efficiency.
• Catamarans: Faster on a reach and downwind due to their wide beam. However, they may not point as high into the wind as monohulls.
• Sailboats: Typically have a deeper draft, limiting access to shallow anchorages and requiring deeper marina berths.
• Catamarans: Shallow draft allows access to shallower waters and secluded anchorages, providing more flexibility in cruising destinations.
• Sailboats: Generally more affordable upfront, with a wide range of options available to fit different budgets.
• Catamarans: Often more expensive upfront due to their size and design. However, maintenance costs may be comparable or even lower in some cases.

7. Mooring and Docking:

• Sailboats: Easier to find slips and moorings in marinas designed for monohulls.
• Catamarans: Require wider slips and may have limited availability in certain marinas, especially in crowded anchorages.

8. Intended Use:

• Sailboats: Ideal for traditional sailors who enjoy the art of sailing, racing enthusiasts, or those on a tighter budget.
• Catamarans: Suited for those prioritizing comfort, stability, and spacious living areas, especially for long-term cruising and chartering.

9. Resale Value:

• Sailboats: Generally have a more established resale market, with a wider range of buyers.
• Catamarans: Growing in popularity, and well-maintained catamarans often retain their value.

10. Personal Preference:

• Consider your personal preferences, the type of sailing you plan to do, and the kind of lifestyle you want aboard your vessel.

In conclusion, both sailboats and catamarans have their advantages and disadvantages. Your decision should be based on your individual preferences, experience level, budget, and intended use. If possible, charter both types of vessels to experience firsthand how they handle and to help make a more informed decision based on your own preferences and needs.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Choosing Between a Sailboat or Catamaran for Your Sailing Adventures appeared first on Things That Make People Go Aww .

My Cruiser Life Magazine

What is a Boat’s Beam? Your Guide to the Beam on a Boat

A boat’s beam is the widest point of the boat. It’s an important measurement to know, just like the length of your boat is vital to know. Like many things in boat design, the beam is one of the tools that yacht designers tinker with to get just the right characteristics. But it also has lots of implications for boat owners too, so let’s take a closer look at a boat’s beam.

Table of Contents

What is “beam” on a boat exactly, beam of the boat and boat performance, boat length and beam, beam and marina choices, beam and cabin size and space, beam and navigation, beam and stability, wide boat beams pros, wide beam boat cons, narrow beam boat pros, narrow beam boat cons, trailer boat beam, narrow beam boats, measuring a boat’s beam, finding the beam sweet spot, faqs (frequently asked questions).

The beam of a boat is the widest point of the boat. It is usually located at the middle or slightly aft of the middle of the boat.

A boat’s beam impacts its performance in several ways:

• Stability : Wider beamed boats are generally more stable than narrower boats. They are less likely to capsize in waves.
• Speed and maneuverability : Narrower beamed boats are often faster and more maneuverable than wider boats.
• Comfort in waves : Narrower boats tend to slice through waves better, while wider boats are more likely to feel the impact of waves and chop.
• Living space : A wider beam provides more interior cabin space and storage capacity compared to a narrower boat of the same length.
• Trailering : Boats with beams under 8’6″ wide can be trailered on the road in most U.S. states without special permits. Wider boats may require permits.

Traditional Beam Terminology

Traditionally, boatbuilders used large wooden beams to create the boat’s frame. These beams ran laterally across the boat. As a result, a ship under construction looked like a massive ribcage, with support beams laid out. Boatbuilders would then add the rest of the wooden structure around the beam skeleton. 

The center beam was usually the longest and thickest beam. This beam’s measurement was used to measure the width of the boat. Today, the word “beam” still refers to the boat’s widest point…although sometimes it’s not in the center and it’s seldom made of wood.

Smaller boats under 20 feet often have a two-to-one ratio. Your eight-foot dinghy will probably have a beam of about four feet. Boats over 30 feet have a bigger ratio, often about three-to-one, four-to-one, or five-to-one. A sailing monohull might be 40 feet long and 12 feet wide.

These are just estimates and rules of thumb, of course. A boat’s beam is one of those things carefully considered by yacht designers and manufacturers. They want just the right handling characteristics, speed, and stability.

Beam Impacts on a Boat

Today, when someone asks about your boat’s beam, they want to know how wide your boat is. Your boat’s beam can impact your navigation possibilities, your marina choices, the size and comfort of your living space, and your comfort at sea.

Your boat’s beam can affect your marina options. Many marinas were built decades ago when narrower beamed boats were standard. Today’s more modern boats often have wider beams to provide a roomier feel in the cabin and give boaters more space. Older marinas might easily accommodate boats with a beam of 12 feet but may struggle to find a place for boats with larger beams.

If you have a large beamed boat such as a catamaran or trimaran, your marina choices will be even more limited. In addition, you might have a harder time finding a boatyard that can haul your boat and place it into dry storage. Many marina boat lifts are limited to hauling boats with beams less than 20 feet wide.

The larger the beam, the more space you’ll have in the boat’s cabin. If you are looking at liveaboard boats, you might be drawn to beamier boats with more space and storage options. Extra beam adds an enormous amount of space to the interior of the boat. This is one reason that trawlers and powerboats feel so much roomier than monohull sailboats–they have greater beams and they carry that beam all the way aft. 

In sailboats, it’s a modern design trend to make beamier boats. Plus, the beam is carried much farther aft than in traditional designs, resulting in wide-open cockpits and large, flat transoms.

The smaller your beam, the more places you can visit. In England, narrowboats have beams that are less than seven feet wide. These narrowboats can navigate England’s canal system. Some of England’s canal locks are very narrow, and only boats that can squeeze through seven-foot wide locks can successfully navigate these beautiful canals. 

There are many other examples of a boat’s beam affecting a boater’s navigation possibilities. For example, some French canals can only accommodate beams of up to 15 feet. To successfully complete America’s Great Loop, boaters should use a boat that is less than 23 feet wide.

Related: Best Boat for the Great Loop

Boats with narrower beams are often faster, especially if they have a longer waterline. However, they might be less stable than a wide-beamed boat.

Boat Design – Is More Beam Better?

In many ways, the beam of a boat is a matter of personal taste. Here’s a look at the pros and cons of wide boats vs narrowboats.

Wider boats are often more stable. For example, if you are looking for a stand-up fishing kayak, you’ll want a boat with a wider beam. A kayak with a narrow beam will be faster and more maneuverable but will be very hard to stand up on while keeping your balance.

Wider boats have more weight capacity than narrower boats of the same length. If you are hauling gear in your boat or need more room to spread out, a wider beamed boat might suit your needs better.

If you trailer your boat, a boat with a wide beam might be more challenging to tow on the road. In most states, if your boat is wider than 8’6″ you’ll need a special permit to tow your boat on the road. 

Many marinas are built with narrower boats in mind. Most marinas will find room for boats with beams less than 16 feet. Anything bigger, and you might struggle to find a traditional marina slip. 

In addition, a wide beamed boat might be too wide for older canal systems.

A narrow beamed boat is often more maneuverable and faster. Have you ever seen an Olympic sculling race? These narrow, long boats can really fly! If you are looking for a fast, fun boat, look for a boat with a narrower beam. Narrow beamed boats are often better at slicing through waves and chopping, whereas wider beamed boats are more likely to feel every bump and wave.

Narrow beams have less storage capacity and less room. If you live on your boat or plan on sleeping on your boat overnight, you might find a narrow boat limiting. 

Narrowboats are less stable and might feel more tippy than boats with wider beams.

If you want to trailer a boat on the road in the US, you’ll want to consider its beam very carefully. Trailerable boats should generally have a beam of 8-feet 6-inches or less. Forty-seven states only allow trailered loads with an 8’6″ beam or less.

However, a few states allow wider loads without permits, so check your state’s regulations. Anything larger would be considered a wide load and require special permits and additional considerations. If you want to trailer a boat on the roadways easily, buy a boat that is less than 8’6″ wide.

Narrowboats are long, narrow boats made for canal life. These boats have a beam that is less than seven feet to fit inside tiny locks easily.

Wide Beam Boats

Wide beam boats are more stable and less likely to capsize in waves. Modern boats are usually beamier than older, more traditional boats. Modern buyers are often looking for boats with extra space and condo-style amenities rather than small, camping-style interiors. If you are thinking about sleeping on your boat or living on your boat, consider how a wider beam will give you more space.

Catamarans are very popular cruising and charter boats. They have wide beams and offer couples and families additional space to spread out. In addition, their wide beam makes these boats very stable. These boats don’t heel as sailing monohulls do. This means that boaters can easily move around their boats while underway.

While monohulls and trawlers are often between 11 and 16 feet wide, cruising catamarans are usually between 21 and 26 feet wide. Monohulls vs catamarans is an ongoing debate, and of course, either choice involves compromise.

Trimarans are another style of popular wide beamed boat. These boats have three hulls and are even wider than catamarans. Cruising trimarans are up to 30 feet wide. If you have a larger trimaran, you’ll enjoy a stable ride but will have more trouble finding marina slips and haul-out yards.

Determining a Boat’s Beam

The easiest way to determine your boat’s beam is to refer to the boat’s documentation. If a factory-made your boat, you should have some paperwork that lists the boat’s beam. If your boat is Coast Guard documented, the boat’s measurements should be listed on that paperwork.

Measuring a boat’s beam might be easy or complex, depending on how big and complicated your boat is. If you have a 10-foot kayak, you can simply get a tape measure, find the widest part of the kayak, and note the measurement.

To measure a boat’s beam, first, you must determine the boat’s centerline. To do this, mark the center of the boat’s bow and the boat’s stern. Mark the centerline by tying a piece of string from the bow’s center to the stern’s center. Of course, if you have a sailboat or a boat with a bimini or other obstructions, this is easier said than done.

Now, find the widest point of the boat. The widest point is usually the middle of the boat or slightly aft of the middle of the boat. Now, measure the boat’s widest point, ensuring the measuring tape stays perpendicular to the centerline string.

Consider your plans for your boat while you consider your boat’s beam. If you are looking for a stable kayak for fishing, find a nice, wide kayak. A dinghy that needs to haul several people and all the goodies should have a wide beam. A wider beam will give you more living and storage space if you are living aboard .

However, if you want a fast and maneuverable kayak, look for a kayak with a narrower beam. If you want a fast dinghy, consider a narrower one. If you want to boat in narrow canals or access small marinas, find a boat that has a narrower beam. Finally, if you want to trailer your boat, look for a boat that has a beam less than 8’6″.

Of course, the answer to finding the perfect boat that’s stable, trailers, crosses oceans, and stores all the stuff is quite simple. You just need a flotilla of different boats!

Where is a boats beam?

The boat’s beam is its widest point. The widest point on a boat is usually in the middle or slightly aft of the middle of the boat. 

How do you measure a boats beam?

First, mark the boat’s centerline from bow to stern. Next, find the widest point of your boat and measure it, making sure that the measuring tape is perpendicular to the centerline.

What does beam on trailer mean?

A trailerable boat should have a beam of 8-feet 6-inches or less. Most states require wider beamed boats to have a special permit and follow special regulations. If your boat’s beam is 8’6″ or less, you won’t need a special permit to trailer it on the road.

Matt has been boating around Florida for over 25 years in everything from small powerboats to large cruising catamarans. He currently lives aboard a 38-foot Cabo Rico sailboat with his wife Lucy and adventure dog Chelsea. Together, they cruise between winters in The Bahamas and summers in the Chesapeake Bay.

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34-36' boats with full showers, Head?? wide beam?

• Thread starter centerline
• Start date Dec 31, 2013
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

at what size do sailboats start becoming equipped with a full shower that you can stand up and turn around in? I have looked at some 34 footers with a shower/head combination, but the shower was kinda small for a 6ft guy, and we have seen large boats (40+) with a full sized stand up shower.... are there any 34-36 footers equipped with a comfortable shower? how about 34-36ft boats with a 12ft beam?  

The definition of comfortable is the question. Most showers at marinas are a tad uncomfortable to me. It depends on your comfort level and headroom. So it's kind of subjective in that way. 27' boats can have a shower or add a shower.  

We considered a Catalina 30 and 34. I can't remember the shower in either but the 30 has a lot of room below for a 30 footer and so does the 34. When we first looked at boats that was Ruth's first question, does it have a shower? The second how about hot water? Well I was able to convince her that neither were practical on a 26 footer and we got along fine without. Sponge baths are nice and intimate and so is washing each other's hair. The Endeavour uses the head as a shower and you can stand up at over 6 feet, but we will continue to go the same way we have on the Mac. The shower just takes too much water if you are not in a slip situation and always anchored out. If you do have shore power and water available then this is a plausible way to go. The Endeavour does have a water heater that works on either elect. (not practical underway) or on the diesel heat but for us you still use too much water unless you take the Navy shower which I have taken earlier in life. If you are looking in the 34-36 foot range maybe go up to 38 foot or so since you can find boats in the same price range, Sum [FONT=Arial, sans-serif] ============================ [/FONT] Our Endeavour 37 Our MacGregor 26-S Pages Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida Mac-Venture Links  

Philip_Oceanis 361

centerline said: are there any 34-36 footers equipped with a comfortable shower? Click to expand

Check out an older Tartan 37.. Nice dedicated shower stall. I think you'll find "stand up" showers starting around 36 feet. My 34 has a very tight "stand up" but probably not what you are thinking..  

JK_Boston_Catalina310

Check out the Catalina 350. They go for about $100k and I don't know your budget. These boats have a very comfortable layout including a full shower.  

My Beneteau 323 has a head/shower combination that is quite ample. At 6'7" (around 2 meters) I can almost stand up in it. The boat is quite beamy and has a comfortable cabin layout.  

Ericson 35-3.  

Our Cherubini Hunter 37 has a separate stand up shower stall that I use at 6-2 230 #.  

Our Oceanis 390 (1991 edition) has a separate shower room. This in addition to two heads and two berths, Most of the time its used as storage, but there are times when its great to be able to get in. Plenty of room.  

Pearson 365/367 has a "separate" shower stall.  

356/36 The Hunter 356/36 has a roomy shower separate from sink but tiolet is in the shower at 5'6'' plenty room for me and head room is good for 6' with 12' beam too. I think the 38 Hunter has more room in bathroom and I think the shower with fold down seat over the tiolet. I really like what I saw in the new Hunter 37 but my 36 really plenty of room and not too much boat to single hand and real easy to sail with the inmast and 110 jib. Nick  

DougM said: My Beneteau 323 has a head/shower combination that is quite ample. At 6'7" (around 2 meters) I can almost stand up in it. The boat is quite beamy and has a comfortable cabin layout. Click to expand

Budget It is all about the $$$$$ and as you can see here with all the info provided here makes it easy with out going all over looking at boats. You save lots of time and can narrow down what not to look at with all the info here but as I said what is your budget and this will help with choosing . So jump in with your budget and than everyone can narrow things down and good luck Nick  

Stu Jackson

Stern showers too, on the sugar scoop hulls, a 36 ft gives you 5 gal of H/W. A 38 ft gives you a better master cabin too  

seadaddler said: It is all about the $$$$$ and as you can see here with all the info provided here makes it easy with out going all over looking at boats. jump in with your budget and than everyone can narrow things down and good luck Nick Click to expand

centerline said: Im looking only at decent older used boats... $30,000 max. hoping for closer to 20K. a 34 to 36 seems about right for size, affordable moorage availability, maintenance and maneuverability. and its not a matter of what I can afford now or for the next few years, but I dont want to over buy.... I want something I can afford forever without worrying about the additional cost of maintenance, moorage fees, and general upkeep associated with boats as they get larger than 36... I want to buy the boat from the guy that DID over buy and now is ready to get rid of his nice boat quickly at pennies on the dollar before it takes him down financially... and I DONT want to ever end up being that guy.... Click to expand

centerline said: Im looking only at decent older used boats... $30,000 max. hoping for closer to 20K. a 34 to 36 seems about right for size, affordable moorage availability, maintenance and maneuverability.... Click to expand

Nereussailor

I spent some time on a 36' Bayfield cutter a few years back and it had a bathtub with a shower. at the time, I was 6'1" and weighed 250 lbs. It was comfortable for me. It was a solid well built boat.  

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5 Best Liveaboard Bluewater Sailboats

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

December 28, 2023

Liveaboard bluewater sailboats are both comfortable to live on and capable of making long, offshore ocean voyages.

The best liveaboard bluewater sailboats must strike a balance between comfort and seakeeping abilities. These boats are generally heavy and stable and roomy enough to spend time in. They must also include the necessary hardware to make cooking, sleeping, and bathing possible in choppy conditions.

Table of contents

Bluewater Liveaboard Sailboat Design

What makes a good bluewater liveaboard sailboat , and how is it different from a coastal cruiser? There are a few aspects of purpose-built bluewater sailboats that make them different from most production vessels. The first and (possibly) most important is the hull design.

The classic bluewater sailboat hull shape features a long, deep, full keel. The keel acts as a hydroplane and keeps the boat stable on course in all sea conditions. Deep keel sailboats aren't the only kind of bluewater-capable vessels, but they're a tried and tested design.

Other vessels gain stability from having a wide beam. Beamy sailboats are far more comfortable in rolling seas, as they tend to buffett and pitch much less than leaner, narrow boats. Most ideal liveaboard bluewater sailboats balance length and beam carefully to make the most of the space and hull shape.

Space is another important quality to consider when choosing the best bluewater liveaboard sailboat. Interior space comes first, as living quarters are a key element of comfort.

Cockpit space should also be considered, especially if more than one person comes aboard. Most liveaboard bluewater sailboats sacrifice cockpit space for cabin space.

A comfortable liveaboard sailboat should include several amenities, including a head (toilet), a shower, two sinks, a galley with a stove, an icebox, a place to eat, and a place to sleep. Ideally, the dining area is separate from the primary sleeping area.

A separate chart table is ideal as well because it keeps food and clutter away from important navigational equipment. A chart table is less important on liveaboard sailboats that spend the majority of their time docked. That said, the chart table functions well as a spot for a microwave, toaster oven, or TV when you're not underway.

A separate forward V-berth, known as a master cabin, is a big plus on liveaboard boats. Separating the sleeping area from the rest of the cabin can increase comfort and coziness.

However, on a bluewater sailboat, a side berth near the hatch is essential as well. This is because you may need to quickly take control of the vessel after waking up, and it's best to sleep close to the helm.

Power and Water

Power and water shouldn't be overlooked when choosing a bluewater liveaboard. Many liveaboards spend most of their time docked and hooked up to shore power, water, and sewage. But bluewater liveaboards are designed for cruising, which means everything must be self-contained.

The best bluewater sailboats have sufficient freshwater storage tanks for several weeks on the water. Some have desalination (water maker) machines, which require electricity to run.

Solar panels are an excellent option for power generation, and they can be installed on almost any sailboat.

But all bluewater sailboats should have battery banks and a gasoline or diesel generator built into the system. On many vessels, the inboard engine also functions as a generator.

Safety is an essential factor to consider when choosing a cruising sailboat , especially if it doubles as your primary residence. Basic safety equipment such as bilge pumps and radios should be maintained and tested regularly. Backups and spare parts should also be kept aboard.

Other safety features, such as watertight hatches, can keep your cabin safe and dry during inclement weather. Self-draining cockpits are helpful when sailing offshore, as spray and waves drain from the exposed cockpit without the use of electric or mechanical pumps. If the drain ports are kept clean, no bailing is ever necessary.

Radar is another useful safety feature that, while not mandatory, can keep you in-the-know and alert you to the presence of nearby ships. Radar is especially useful at night, as the automatic alarms can wake you whenever a potential obstacle appears nearby.

Bluewater Sailboats for Living Aboard and Cruising

Living aboard a sailboat is one of the most interesting and rewarding lifestyles available today. It's even more alluring when you can sail your vessel across oceans, which is what bluewater sailboats are designed to do.

A liveaboard cruising sailboat combines comfort, seakeeping ability, and ease of handling in a compact and thoughtfully-designed package. Here are the best liveaboard sailboats for bluewater cruising.

1. Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20

{{boat-info="/boats/pacific-seacraft-flicka-20"}}

The Flicka 20 is the smallest and most interesting sailboat on our list. At only 20 feet overall in length, the interior accommodations of this vessel are spartan at best and suitable for minimalist living.

What makes the Flicka 20 stand out is its exceptional bluewater performance. This sailboat is truly an ultracompact pocket cruiser. With a full ballast keel, self-draining cockpit, and wide beam, the Flicka 20 is more capable offshore than some boats almost twice its size.

This sailboat has the profile of a traditional keel cruiser. From a distance, it would be easy to mistake for a much larger vessel. Its hull shape, manageable Bermuda rig, and small size make it a perfect starter sailboat for single handed offshore cruising.

Inside, you have (almost) everything you need to live comfortably, albeit in a minimalist way. The cabin features standing headroom throughout, which is highly unusual for a 20-foot sailboat. On the port side, you're greeted with a small but functional galley. On the starboard side, there's a small head with a toilet and a shower.

The Flicka 20 displaces a hardy 5,500 lbs. Due to its large keel, there's no centerboard trunk to obstruct interior space. A V-berth upfront makes up the sleeping accommodations, and some models feature settees on both sides with a pop-up dining and chart table in between.

The Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20 has achieved somewhat of a cult status amongst bluewater sailboat enthusiasts. Only about 400 were built, so purchasing a Flicka 20 is somewhat of a rare and expensive proposition. That said, the benefits of owning a 20-foot bluewater liveaboard sailboat are hard to beat.

Cheap slip fees, low maintenance costs, and simplicity are the major selling points of this vessel. It's trailerable behind most heavy-duty pickup trucks and technically small enough to store on the street or in a driveway.

2. Pacific Seacraft Allegra 24

{{boat-info="/boats/pacific-seacraft-allegra-24"}}

If the Flicka 20 is too small for your taste, try the Pacific Seacraft Allegra 24. It follows the same design principles of the Flicka 20, but with four feet of additional space for cabin amenities and seaworthiness.

Four feet may not sound like a lot, but it makes a world of difference on a sailboat. The additional space on the Allegra 24 adds room to the head, extends the port and starboard settees, and increases the size of the galley.

If you like the idea of a small, semi-trailerable offshore sailboat with liveaboard amenities, you'll love the Allegra 24. This stout sailboat has almost miraculous handling and seakeeping qualities while retaining the benefits of small overall size.

With the Allegra 24, you'll be able to make virtually any offshore passage and save on slip fees, maintenance costs, and overall labor. This vessel is easy to sail single handed and large enough for a minimalistic couple to live, eat, and sleep comfortably.

The Pacific Seacraft Allegra 24 is not ideal for people who need space for pets, children, or guests, as the interior is quite small when compared to other sailboats. That said, there's enough room for an occasional passenger, and the cockpit is comfortable enough for four adults to sit and interact.

3. O'Day 28

{{boat-info="/boats/oday-28"}}

The O'Day 28 is a popular sailboat that makes a great liveaboard cruising platform. This affordable vessel was produced between 1978 and 1986, and over 500 examples were produced over the years.

All in all, the O'Day 28 is a stout cruising sailboat that's suitable for offshore and coastal sailing. It features a raked stern and hidden rudder, and a helm that's similar to what you'd find on much larger boats.

The O'Day has a large fuel tank for its inboard engine and an even larger 25-gallon freshwater capacity, which is excellent for offshore cruising. Additional tanks can be added in storage spaces, making the O'Day 28 suitable for long voyages.

The cabin of the O'Day 28 is spacious and includes everything you'd need to live aboard comfortably, along with plenty of storage space throughout. The wide beam of the O'Day 28 gives it lots of space, so the cabin doesn't feel cramped for its size.

Two models of the O'Day 28 were built; one featured a swing keel, and the other had a fixed swing keel. The swing keel model is ideal for coastal cruising and shallow-water sailing, while the fixed keel O'Day 28 is more suited for bluewater cruising.

That said, both keel variants make fine offshore sailboats. The cabin of the O'Day 28 features a large galley with a stove and icebox, two large settee berths, a large center table ahead, and a V-berth forward. The head serves as a separator to the forward cabin, giving the V-berth an extra layer of privacy.

4. William Atkin "Eric" 32

{{boat-info="/boats/atkin-co-eric-32"}}

"Eric," designed in the 1920s by famous marine architect William Atkin, is a radical departure from typical modern liveaboard sailboats. However, as a bluewater liveaboard sailboat, this vessel likely outshines all the others on this list in almost every conceivable way.

Eric is a 32-foot traditional wooden ketch. This planked full- keel sailboat displaces over 19,000 lbs and has a draft of about five feet. The basic design of the hull is based on early Norweigian fishing boats, which were known for their resilience in rough North Sea storms.

Eric is a traditional gaff-rigged vessel with two short masts and a long bowsprit. Though complex to rig, it sails beautifully in all weather conditions. One of the earliest examples built survived a hurricane offshore in the 1930s, and subsequent models have completed numerous long-range ocean voyages.

Eric is a purpose-built long-range ocean cruiser. Interior accommodations are spacious and designed for comfort and utility. Unlike most sailboats of the time, Eric features a full head with shower, a 'master cabin' style V-berth forward, a full galley with an icebox, and standing headroom throughout.

William Atkin's Eric is, by all definitions, an ocean-crossing sailboat designed to take between one and four adults just about as far as they want to go. It has all the qualities of an oceangoing sailboat in a compact package, along with excellent seakeeping characteristics.

The primary drawback of this 32-foot Atkin sailboat is maintenance. Most of these hulls were constructed using traditional oak planking, which lasts forever if taken care of but requires skilled maintenance. The planks are caulked using cotton wadding, and they'll need recaulking if the boat stays out of the water for too long and "dries up."

If you're looking for a beautiful and historic liveaboard sailboat with serious offshore cruising capabilities, consider an Atkin Eric 32. Although somewhat rare, examples of this design occasionally pop up for sale on the used market.

5. Pearson 35

{{boat-info="/boats/oday-28"}}, {{boat-info="/boats/pearson-35"}}

The Pearson 35 crosses the rubicon into the 'big boat' category, as it has everything you'd expect of a large oceangoing sailboat. The vessel also has a unique displacement keel with an additional swing keel at the base.

The Pearson 35 is a roomy sailboat with excellent seakeeping abilities and a large sail plan. It's a typical Bermuda-rigged sloop with a tall mast and the usual sheet and halyard arrangement. As a result, it's fun to sail and easy to handle. It's also a fast boat, making it ideal for longer voyages.

The swing keel certainly doesn't make the Pearson 35 a shoal-draft sailboat. It has a modified full keel which (with the swing keel retracted) draws 3 feet 9 inches. With the additional swing keel down, the draft of the Pearson 35 increases to over 7 feet.

The Pearson 35 is a heavy boat with good sea keeping abilities. It was introduced in 1968, and over 500 units were produced. That makes it one of the more popular sailboats in its class, and plenty of Pearson 35s are still sailing around the United States.

Down below in the cabin, the Pearson 35 is roomy and comfortable. It features a full galley, an enclosed head with a shower and sink, and several berthing areas, including a forward V-berth. Plenty of storage is available throughout the cabin, making the Pearson 35 an excellent choice for living aboard.

There's something empowering about piloting a 35-foot sailboat through rough weather. The size of the boat provides both safety and a sense of security, which can help you keep a clear head during stressful situations at sea. The vessel is beamy as well, making it less likely to heel aggressively and increasing roll comfort in dicey seas.

Overall, the Pearson 35 is an excellent choice for a liveaboard bluewater sailboat. It's a large boat in comparison to the others on this list, and it's known for easy handling and excellent windward performance. The Pearson 35 is a common sailboat that's widely available on the used market.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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A Stern Look at Boat Sterns

Photos by Ralph Naranjo

Nothing stereotypes a cruising sailboat more than whats going on at the bow and stern. Both ends of the boat tell a lot about cruising preferences and what assets and obstacles will arise in a seaway.

In the January 2013 issue of Practical Sailor , we took a close look at the bow and noted the trend toward plumb stems, multiple furlers, and a longer resting waterline. We also recognized the tradeoffs involved, such as the need to perch the anchor further forward on a mini sprit or small strut in order to keep the flukes from chewing away at the topsides. When it comes to ground-tackle handling, its clear that for decades, cruisers have understood and retained a commitment to anchor deployment and retrieval-and designers and builders have responded appropriately. However, an even bigger shift in yacht design has overtaken the aft end of the modern production sailboat-and the implications are hard to miss.

During our dock walks at this past years boat shows, PS editors focused on the back of the boats, and here we delve into the implications and look of modern stern design and what this means for those underway and those enjoying a remote anchorage.

More Beam Aft

The first of these is the trend toward more beam aft and its growing acceptance among racing and cruising sailors. Performance sailors see that the uptick in form stability equates to extra sail-carrying capacity and a hulls willingness to climb onto a plane during power reaches. Designers realized that placing a hydro-dynamically shaped bulb at the bottom of a very deep fin keel attached to a wide canoe-shaped hull can deliver enough secondary righting moment to make the pizza slice-shaped resting waterline adequate for offshore sailing. However, when such water-plane footprints show up in the cruising fleet, they often arrive sans deep keel and with lower ballast ratios, considerably less draft, and a shortfall in secondary righting moment.

Many naval architects see the plethora of wide, shoal-draft, sub 30-percent ballast ratio cruisers as perfectly viable inshore/coastal cruisers, but they balk when it comes to the boats appropriateness for offshore use. We agree, and in an upcoming issue, we will address making sense of stability indicators, the ISO STIX formula, and whats involved in staying right side up.

The glass half-empty squadron likes to sneer that the new ultra-wide sterns are there to expedite boarding at boat shows. But summertime, warm-weather coastal cruisers seem to like the supersized sundecks and the beckoning easy access to the water. Fewer and fewer boats provide the traditional deep well, small cockpit feel that offered kind motion and good protection from spray and breaking waves. Todays cockpits have more of a wide-open feel, and the offshore passagemaking symbol of a lean double-ender with a self-steering vane securely bolted to the trailing edge has become pass-at least, thats the case among the fleet at boat shows.

We see some significant up sides to the new trend toward connectivity to the sea and attributes like a cockpit with a picnic table. But not all of these features favor offshore passagemaking.

Wide-open Cockpits

One issue that rose above the rest is that an ideal stern section and cockpit layout for the racer is anything but the right solution for the cruiser. Crews differ in size, rail meat is an alien concept to most cruisers, and obsession over mark roundings and the speed of a sail change diminish. In some ways, its like defining the right car design for a Baja 500 and a soccer mom. Add to this the inshore and offshore renditions of cruising, and its a bit of a surprise that all user groups are being led to boats with big broad transoms and maximum beam moved further aft.

The room-to-roam feeling of open space and increased deck area does afford a big-boat feel and may be a welcome attribute at anchor. But as one crusty naval architect I know put it, fiberglass is cheap, and space is free. The real question is whether the added area is an all-around asset. A closer look shows that along with bringing the beam aft, builders have added twin wheels at opposing stern quarters, and on many boats, one can use the pushpit as a backrest and steer with an unencumbered view of what lies ahead. However, the very same trajectory in open-ocean sailing is the antithesis of deep-well cockpit protection. The bimini does nothing to halt sea spray or deflect a dollop of green water. Many wide cockpit designs lack adequate handholds, which can be problematic in a developing seaway. The closer we looked, the more we felt that these room-to-roam stern sections were at their best sailing flat, but when significantly heeled in a pitching seaway, the big advantage of a wide stern, with a helm at each quarter, came into question.

During our boat-show tour, as we stepped aboard each boat, we mentally turned the tranquility of a boat-show slip into varying angles of heel and different degrees of sea state-induced boat motion. Mimicking the way a designer heels a hull using a Rhino CAD program, we imagined a 15-degree heel, increased it to a caught over canvassed 30-degree heel, and punctuated the steep angle with some three-dimensional pitch, roll, and yaw gyrations. We focused on what would be going on at the helm(s) and how getting from here-to-there across a spacious, but inclined cockpit would up the chances for an undesirable slip or fall.

In millpond conditions, the distance you are from the vessels centerline and center of buoyancy goes unnoticed. But add some imaginary pitching, sporadic wind gusts, and wave impacts to your mind-modeling, and picture what an imaginary helmsperson perched at the windward helm of a wide transom sloop would be encountering. The person at the helm would indeed be in full contact with the elements. They could move to the leeward helm, and the extreme beam carried aft would block some of the wind and spray, along with visibility of whats going on the windward side of the boat. Many salesmen tout the clear open pathway down the centerline of the cockpit and how the wheels perched toward the rail are well out of the way. In short, many of the big fair-weather advantages of the wide-open cockpits go away when conditions deteriorate.

Davits on a Wide Stern

A wide, full stern affords a lot of buoyancy along with a span thats wide enough to accommodate davits for hoisting a dinghy while making a near-shore or coastal run. However, there are important design criteria to consider before deciding to carry a good-sized RIB on davits. The first thing to recognize is that any extra weight added above the center of gravity (CG) decreases a sailboats angle of vanishing stability (AVS), and many wide, shoal-draft, low-ballast-ratio boats have very little to spare. We are starting to see an increase in sailboats with low AVS ratings (110 or less).

Not only is a low AVS undesirable for offshore cruisers, but it means that any extra weight and windage added above the CG can increase the risk of capsize and interfere with swift recovery. In addition, when heeled precipitously, a RIB in davits is very vulnerable to breaking seas, and no davit structure is engineered to withstand the impact of thousands of pounds of green water. Those running the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) or coastal cruising and watching the weather forecasts have better odds when hauling a dinghy in the davits. Those on lengthy ocean passages are upping the ante.

With dual helm stations comes a dual-flywheel effect that impacts the efficiency of a boats autopilot. Add to this the extra cables or drag links associated with connecting both wheels to the steering quadrant on the rudder stock, and its obvious that there will be more friction in the system and more components that can fail. Those making long passages shorthanded and relying on an autopilot need to consider such factors.

Cleats and chocks are another key feature of every cruising boats stern quarter. Not only do they need to be securely anchored and backed, but they must be easy to work. They may be used for mooring, attaching dock lines, or affixing a drogue bridle, and the loads imposed can be substantial.

By crawling into an aft locker with a flashlight, you can usually see how the hardware has been attached to the deck. Look for backing plates, large shoulder washers, and fasteners penetrating the hull-to-deck joint (with inward-turning flange joints), because this is where solid fiberglass replaces core material. Large cleats and chocks are an asset as long as they have been well attached to the deck.

The take-home point is that before deciding whether a boat is right for you, you first must know how your boat will be used; then determine whether or not the design attributes of the stern and cockpit layout make sense.

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A guide to buying a wide beam boat

Widebeam boats are perfect if you are planning to transform the boat into your home. They come with ample built-in storage spaces and individual rooms so you can live comfortably – quite similar to a small apartment. 

Although the extra width does put a restriction on your cruising range, there are still many beautiful spots in the UK you can visit.

So, what is a wide beam boat?

Widebeam boats have become popular in the UK waterways as more and more people are choosing to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life and enjoy the peace and tranquillity of onboard living. It also gives the option for people to travel as much as they like and explore the countryside scenery along the way.

A wide beam boat is based on the style of a standard narrowboat, i.e they both are constructed with robust steel. However, the difference is that wide beam boats are a lot wider inside and offer a lot more room allowing the installation of contemporary fit-outs. 

With all the extra space, wide beam boats offer a comfortable home for those who wish to live onboard and prefer not to cruise as much. Some canals on the network don’t accommodate for the size of a wide beam boat, so it’s always best to do your research if you plan to move.

What are the main differences between a wide beam and a narrowboat?

Both of these boats share similar characteristics and functionalities. Both boats start off the same, but then the wide beam boat is made wider to accommodate for extra space.

A standard narrowboat size: 6 foot 10 inches A standard wide beam boat size: 10-12 feet wide

Cruising limitations

Narrowboats can pretty much cruise in any canal in the UK, however, wide beam boats are unable to navigate along the smaller canals.

Why should you invest in a wide beam boat?

• Offers extra storage and living space
• Comfortable and large with an apartment like feel
• Option to install contemporary fit-outs

Why a narrowboat may be the better option for you?

• If you prefer to constantly cruise and move around. Widebeam boats are limited due to their width
• If you are on a budget. Widebeam boats come with higher costs for licences, mooring etc.
• If you prefer the traditional boat look. Widebeam boats are more contemporary and modern.

We understand that for first time buyers, the world of canal boats can cause a little confusion. In order to facilitate things, Collingwood have put together this handy guide; ensuring you end up with the boat of your dreams.

Although we are still in the early stages of taking the delivery of our new 66 / 12 Wide beam boat, the communication, service and workmanship has been outstanding, if we all took the Collingwood Boat approach, we would all be better off! If your thinking of having a boat built, talk to these guys first, you won’t be disappointed. Very pleased!

As the proud home of boat building heritage, Liverpool has always been synonymous with the craftsmanship that goes into creating narrowboats and widebeam boats....

So you’ve purchased a Sailaway canal boat with the intention of fitting out the interior yourself. Whether you’re the proud owner of a brand...

The Leeds and Liverpool Canal is a historic waterway that stretches for 127 miles, connecting the cities of Leeds and Liverpool in the United...

Whether you’re a regular canal journeyman or you’re experiencing cruising the UK waterways for the first time, when embarking on a canal boat cruise,...

To start design work on your very own canal boat build or to find out more, get in touch with us today.

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Aquavista Support Centre Sawley, Waterside & Marinas, Long Eaton, Nottinghamshire, NG10 3AE

Hydra - £89,950

Hydra is a 60ft long x 10ft wide, wide-beam built by Viking Canal Boats in 2011. She is fitted with a Beta Marine 60HP inboard diesel engine, has 4 berths and a bow thruster.

Hydra is an exceptional cruiser stern wide-beam and benefits from spray foam insulation, fixed double Queen size bed and double sofa bed, quadrant shower cubicle and new cratch and pram covers.  The engine was serviced in June 2021.  Viewing is highly recommended!!

BSC expires: - Oct 2027

Last blacking: - June 2022  

Hull & superstructure: - Steel 10 / 6 / 5 / 4

Stern type: - Cruiser 

Engine: - Beta Marine 60HP 

Bow thruster: - Electric

Electrics: - Shore power - Victron Multiplus 3000w inverter - Charger

Batteries: -  1 x engine start  -  5 x domestic -  2 x bow thruster

Galley equipment: -Thetford Caprice MK III oven - Hob and grill - Shoreline 12v fridge-freezer - Washing machine - Slimline dishwasher

Water heating: - Engine - Immersion - Central heating boiler

Cabin heating: - Webasto 5.2kw - Solid fuel Morso Squirrel Stove - Radiators

Water capacity: -  Approx 200 gallons

Fuel capacity: -  Approx 80 gallons

Toilet: - Thetford C260 cassette (3 x spare cassette's)

Fitting out: - Oak Veneer ply

Flooring: - Carpet in bedroom - Cushion floor in bathroom - Laminate in saloon and galley

Headroom: - 6ft 7in

Please note: this is not a survey report and all pre-owned boats are sold without warranty.

The information provided is based on a superficial inspection carried out by us and information provided by the vendor. No guarantee is given or implied regarding the specification, but descriptions are given in good faith as could be ascertained at the time of inspection. Aquavista takes no responsibility for the accuracy of this information and recommend the use of a marine surveyor to establish the condition of the vessel.

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Offshore Center Consoles: Adding Width and Space without Compromising Ride

• By Chris Woodward
• Updated: March 6, 2015

Just like a jigsaw puzzle with a lot of sky pieces, fishing-boat design can be quite tricky. The length, width, weight, center of gravity, and other factors must combine with the running-surface strategy and power requirements to achieve everything an angler might want. Talk about your impossible dreams.

Enhanced beam can be one of those desires. Beamy, wide boats create stable platforms for anglers. But if not designed correctly, they can deliver a rude ride. To look at the benefits and requirements of beamy vessels, I identified several wider-than-the-competition models and asked those builders what elements they combined to create these very popular boats. (Boats are listed by LOA from shortest to longest.)

Southport 29 Tournament Edition

The Zen of life has been described as the balance of all things. And in boatbuilding, as in life, that equilibrium is the trick, says Skip Robinson, managing director for Southport Boats . “In the case of the 29 — and all of our boats — we want to deliver as much cockpit space as practical for fishermen to move around in, and as much beam as we can for a stable ride but without compromising performance,” he says. “Too wide, and the hull creates resistance or drag that will reduce speed and increase fuel burn.”

The most important considerations in designing a beamy boat include the shape of the bottom, where the water breaks, and the longitudinal center of gravity (LCG), Robinson says.

“The folks at C. Raymond Hunt [design firm] developed a unique, variable-degree, deep-V-bottom design and concomitant LCG that keeps the hull addressing the water at just the right sweet spot for the varying speeds. It’s their magic,” he says.

Southport wants its boats to run as flat as possible with negligible bow rise. “We borrow our performance from monohull race boats. At the same time, we deliver the beam and wide chine flats that ensure a stable ride.”

Add to that the Carolina flair of the bow, and these boats maintain a dry, level ride. “They also don’t bow-steer in a following sea where the sharply increasing buoyancy pops the bow up,” he says.

Southport 29 Tournament Edition Specifications

LOA: 28 ft. 6 in. BEAM: 10 ft. 6 in. TRANSOM DEADRISE: 22 deg. DRY WEIGHT: 5,800 lb. MAX POWER: 600 hp

Cobia 296CC

Cobia designs its boats as “utility-driven tools,” says Charlie Johnson, Cobia’s marketing director. More beam equals more room for anglers, gear, storage and features. In fact, he says, cramped space can even become dangerous in the fast-paced offshore fishing world.

“One of the biggest considerations is the balance between a boat with beam and one that is so beamy that ride quality is sacrificed,” he says. “You want enough room to offer ample space for the job at hand, but not so much that you have a ‘pounder.’”

Having an early, very fine entry and deep forefoot in the bow that begins cutting the waves quickly can be key. The boat also must be properly balanced so that when it lifts off a wave and comes down again, it keeps its running attitude.

“Many boats either fall on their tail first, causing the rest of the hull to slam down, or worse, land nose first, both drenching the occupants and putting them at risk for a sudden and dangerous broach,” he says.

When piloting a beamy boat like the Cobia 296CC, Johnson suggests adding a little throttle. Cobia boats generally run on top of the seas instead of through them, he adds. “Many people don’t realize that more throttle can make for a much more comfortable ride in certain conditions. In essence, you are lifting more of the boat out of the water and running on more of the V portion of the hull, which achieves the same effect as running a narrower hull.”

Cobia 296CC Specifications

LOA: 29 ft. 7 in. BEAM: 10 ft. TRANSOM DEADRISE: 21.5 deg. DRY WEIGHT: 5,915 lb. MAX POWER: 600 hp

Stamas 326 Tarpon

Stamas says it adds a little more beam to its boats to enhance the size of the platform and make it more fishable for more anglers. “We also use the extra square footage of the platform and its weight-carrying ability to enhance the overall usability of the boat,” says Mark LaPrade, sales manager for Stamas Yacht. “We realize that having a foot of beam more than the typical 32-footer gives the owner an additional 30 square feet of platform, and that’s huge when you’re out there fishing all day.”

LaPrade attributes the boat’s ride to its variable-degree deadrise hull, which means the hull angle between the longitudinal strakes changes from gunwale to waterline, and of course, from bow to stern. The V of the hull becomes sharper or deeper where it cuts through the seas at the bow. The deadrise at the transom levels out (to 20 degrees) to allow for the broader beam and to offer stability at rest or on the troll.

“The slightly shallower deadrise aft also equates to a little shallower draft, which is appealing to many anglers who also fish inshore,” he says.

The angle of the chines also directs water downward, where wind is less likely to blow it back onto the boat, promoting a drier ride.

Stamas 326 Tarpon Specifications

LOA: 34 ft. 6 in. BEAM: 11 ft. 2 in. TRANSOM DEADRISE: 20 deg. DRY WEIGHT: 9,550 lb. MAX POWER: 600 hp

Grady-White Canyon 376

Key benefits of a beamy boat like the Canyon 376 include interior space and stability, says Shelley Tubaugh, vice president of marketing for Grady-White. “A foot of beam adds much more usable space than a foot of length. There is never enough room for things like storage, fish boxes, livewells, generators, air conditioners and other creature comforts,” she says.

Extra beam also adds deck space — important when offshore anglers tie into a frenzied bite. Stability at rest or while trolling also benefits fishermen at the end of the day in the form of less fatigue, she says.

When designing a beamy boat, available power must also be considered. Wider boats are harder to push and are generally heavier. “So you’d better have enough power available to not only push the boat along at a reasonable speed, but there also needs to be enough power to climb the backside of a 10-footer with authority.”

Wider boats can ride rougher, but that can be overcome with the right hull design, and the added weight of the boat can help the ride. “You have to have a really good, sharp point of entry that begins to vary all along the hull surface, instead of stopping amidships,” she says. “That whole integration makes a big difference.”

As with the Southport boats, Grady’s running surfaces are designed by C. Raymond Hunt. “It’s all about finding that balance,” Tubaugh says. “We say: ‘Here’s the length we want. We want a SeaV2 hull, and we want this ride and these aspects to it.’ Then we see what we need to do beamwise, and look at how it fits into the marketplace.”

Go-fast-style offshore boats are built to become bullets. “For us, we say that we want to be able to withstand long offshore trips but also settle into a good ride or troll offshore.”

Grady-White Canyon 376 Specifications

LOA: 36 ft. 7 in. BEAM: 13 ft. 2 in. TRANSOM DEADRISE: 20 deg. DRY WEIGHT: 12,850 lb. MAX POWER: 1,050 hp

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