skin on frame sailboat plans

Ready for a lightweight boat?

  Welcome to Kudzu Craft, we specialize in the ‘Fuselage Frame’ style of skin on frame boats. Our boats are designed for the home builder. We offer full sized plans, precut frame kits and many of the supplies needed to build your own small boat.

My boats are based on construction methods that have been used for thousands of years. We are now using modern materials but the basic methods or construction have not changed. My frames are built using a fuselage style, much like airplane construction.

The frames are cut from marine plywood and the stringers are made from lightweight woods and lashed together with artificial sinew. A synthetic fabric skin is sewn over the frame, shrunk,waterproofed and becomes a structural member of the boat. This method makes an strong, durable and very lightweight boat.

Oh yea, they are tough!

Contrary to their delicate looks, SOF boats are very tough and durable. I have run mine upon many rocks, across submerged logs, stumps and tree limbs and I have yet to make more than a small mark on the hull.This video shows you just how tough they really are. It takes a lot more than hitting a rock, stick or some other object in the water!

Building a Kudzu Craft boat

Would like to see what is involved in building one of my boats? I created this short video that walks you through the steps involved in building a boat. It will not show you details but it will give you an overview of what you can expect.

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Order Plans Annabelle A skiff for sailing and rowing 10' x 4' 3.04m x 1.22m 52 sq ft of sail area, utilizing a standing lug sail

The Annabelle Skiff is a unique skin-on-frame sailing dinghy based on a design by the legendary Howard Chapelle. I built her because I appreciated her classic lines . . . and also because she is just "right." No matter one's dreams of excursions with family and friends, the fact is that - by far - most people will end up sailing solo most of the time. Annabelle is a great sailboat that is also perfectly sized so that one person can easily transport, carry, rig and sail her with a minimum of fuss. And all that while still having plenty of room to take along a passenger or a pile of camping gear if desired. 

It is also very true that the simplest boats get used the most . . . Annabelle's freestanding rig has only two lines - halyard and sheet -  and she's ready to go in literally just a minute or two. And, at 63lbs {29kg} there is no need for a trailer, as she is ideal for car-topping, and easy for even a single person to carry down to the water.  

Annabelle is a fast, responsive and fun sailboat, rows effortlessly, and is ideal for daysailing, exploration, exercise, fishing or even for use as a tender for a larger craft.

Maximum recommended capacity is 400lbs/182kg

New for 2016 - all plans also come with instructions on how to build a rowing-only version of the Annabelle Skiff. If you're not interested in sailing, she'll be even lighter and easier to build than the original!

High quality, inexpensive sails built specifically for the Annabelle Skiff can be purchased here: ReallySimpleSails

Build a Skin on Frame Melonseed (or Similar Boat)

Introduction: Build a Skin on Frame Melonseed (or Similar Boat)

Skin on frame boats have been used for thousands of years. They can be incredibly durable, while still being lightweight. They can also be built much quicker than any other traditional style boat. Some traditional Umiaks have been built over 30 feet long!

Why I did this:

I have wanted to build a boat that is inexpensive, yet with a traditional shape. Something light enough to be car-toppable, yet able to comfortably fit two, and sail in rough waters. I chose the Melonseed design. This was a 1900's sailboat used for duck hunting in the northeast US. It has a beautiful hull shape, covered deck so it can handle waves, and has enough space inside I could actually sleep in the boat. I looked at the designs available, and just wasn't happy with any of the plans, so I decided to design this boat from scratch.

The end result is an 85 lb boat that sails quickly, is incredibly difficult to flip, handles waves well, and can be comfortably sailed by one or two adults.

Building a boat is by no means a hard task. If you've built a workbench out of 2x4's this is just a step above that. You'll certainly have to learn some new skills, whether its shaping wood, sewing, or tieing knots. And the process is 100% worth it.

It is certainly a time-consuming project though. It took about a year and a half of working on and off, and I've got no clue how many hours I've put into this. After having this boat for a year, and making numerous improvements, I decided to make this to share my design, as well as my process. Hopefully, you will be able to take this and apply it to any boat you want to make skin on frame. I am by no means an expert in boatbuilding. You can build a Melonseed, or us this as guidelines for your own design. Take things in the direction you want.

Note: If you want to get a better view of my pictures, check out my album on flickr: Link

Edit: whew, this ended up being a lot of writing. I tried to get in every important detail. The majority of it is really in the pictures though.

A basic overview of what is required to make a skin on frame sailboat: (I'll go into more details in each section). The materials can be extremely affordable and easy to obtain, If you choose to go with basic hardware store lumber and fittings like I did. Total cost for me was just under $400

• Long strips of wood (at least 10% longer than your boat)
• 3/4" Exterior grade or marine plywood (1 4x4 sheet) (for Daggerboard, rudder, mast step)
• 1/2" exterior or marine plywood (2 4x8 sheets)
• Several wood planks
• polyester skin
• spar urethane
• Oil-based exterior paint
• Sail material (I used a large tarp)
• Rope (for this boat 200ft should be enough for rigging, with leftovers for tieing up at dock)
• A basic sewing machine (or a needle + a whole lot of patience)
• screws + nails (preferably stainless steel)
• Hardware (pulleys, cleats, handles, etc)
• PL Premium Construction adhesive (3-4 tubes) This
• Marine sealant Like This
• + lots of small bits of wood
• SPACE: enough to fit your boat, and be able to walk around it.

Step 1: Lofting Your Design

The first step is to pick a design. I recommend looking on forums for recommendations or just browsing google. There are lots of traditional wooden boats that convert to skin on frame very well. The only boats that really cannot be converted to skin on frame are those with a large flat bottom, or parts of the hull that are concave.

Once you have a design, you will need to model the hull shape. Old boat plans came with something called a Table of Offsets, which is essentially just xyz coordinate points to map the outside of the hull. Shipbuilders would draw these out full scale and use thin strips of wood to create curves from the dots, thus making the full-size plans.

Using Delftship: I used Delftship Free , and there is This Tutorial that does a good job of explaining the process. In fact, you can just take the front, side, and top views from the plans, and eyeball the xyz points. This is a repetitive, but easy process.

Once the hull is modelled, look over it and make sure it has a relatively smooth, rounded shape. Next, Click Tools-> Intersections. click delete all, then add the values where you want to have frames. Finally, what I did was go to Tools -> Lines plan -> plot. I saved as and A3 sized pdf. It then lets you select a scale. I chose 12:1, whatever you put, just remember it. Then, use a pdf editor to create a tiled set of plans to print, scale it up by the same number you used before, and your good to print your plans.

I have attached my delftship file, and the PDF of the frames, daggerboard, and transom. I can't get it to upload here, so here's a Link: Google Drive

Step 2: Understanding the Forces on a Sailboat

Since we'll be practically designing the entire structure of the boat, its important to understand how strong these need to be. This may seem difficult, but it's actually really simple. there are four main points on the boat force on them. This is ignoring the weight of the boat, but that is evenly spread out, and not an issue for our structure.

It's very easy to build a, glue everything together, then try to twist it and move it. If it flexes too much or doesn't seem strong enough, simply add some wood beams to reinforce it.

Point 1: The Mast: When your sailing, the force of the sail is evenly split, with about half on the mast, and half on the transom. See the pictures above. With someone sitting on the boat, you should be able to push on the mast and lift them up without flexing the frame too much.

Point 2: the seats: This is where you sit, so obviously its got to support you. Sitting in the seat shouldn't flex the structure, and it should evenly spread your weight onto multiple frames.

Point 3: The transom Ther are two points of force on the transom: the rudder, and the main sheet. Assuming your main sheet is attached at the transom, it is pulling up and forward on the two upper corners. This force should be handled by the outer frame easily. The rudder is putting a sideways force on the transom, which can be a bigger concern.

Point 4: the daggerboard. Now, this one isn't actually what you'd expect. when sailing, the daggerboard acts just like a rudder, with its only goal to keep the boat sailing straight. This usually doesn't produce that much force. However, when you flip the boat, the daggerboard is what you must put your entire weight on to right the boat. This is an even bigger deal if the boat is swamped, and you've got 1000 lbs of water inside. The daggerboard case has to be strong enough to take several hundred pounds pushing on the daggerboard.

Step 3: Flushing Out the Design

Let's clarify some terms first:

• Stringers: long strips of wood that follow the shape of the boat, and support the skin
• Gunwales: The
• Hull: the bottom surface that is in contact with the water. Also the 'body' of the boat
• Bow: front of boat
• Stern: back of boat
• Coaming: A lip that goes around a hatch or opening in the deck, keeping water out.

Now we have a shape for the bottom of the hull, we need to figure out where to put the top deck, and some major support structures. So we will draw in all these elements on our plans. I chose to transfer my plans to tracing paper since the original lines printed too thick. This is the most complex step, as there is a lot involved in the design, but you can try something, make a model, and if it doesn't work, redo it.

Gunwales: For the melonseed, I used 3/4" x 2" strips for this. These need to protrude at least a bit above the edge of the plywood. I ended up recessing them 3/8" (halfway) into the frames. Draw the cross-section of your gunwales on each frame, started in the top corner, and go down.

For a boat with no top deck, you will want to make your gunwales wider than 2", and make ladder gunwales, like in the picture. This will add much-needed rigidity.

Cockpit: Next, I add the coaming around the cockpit and the seats. Since both of these are level front-back, I drew a single cross-section for all frames. The coaming serves two purposes: keeping water out and forming a rigid box structure. I only made cuts for the coaming in one frame: the one in the middle of the cockpit. I used: 3/4" x 4.5" tall planks for the coaming.

Seats: Next the seats. I made the seats and floorboards out of 3/4" thick pine. I made my seats 10" at their widest, going right up to the gunwale in most places. I made cutouts for the seats in the Three frames that form the cockpit.

King Plank: Next, I will add the King plank. This connects the rigid box of the cockpit to the forward frames. Thus the daggerboard and mast are also joined to it. This also provides a place to step when accessing the mast or any lines near it. I used a 3/4" x 9" board for this. Since my king plank is sloped, it took a bit of trgonometry to figure out how high it has to be at each frame.

Top Stringers: the stringers on the sides + bottom will all be placed against the surface of the frames, but the top stringers don't need to, so I chose to recess them. I drew these in, 3/4" x 3/4" square. The top stringers don't need to be nearly as close. I added only two top stringers. Then I put a single central peice 3/4" x 1.5" down the center from the back of the cockpit to the transom.

Keel: just make sure to have a flat bottom at least 2" wide on most of your frames so you can attach the keel. The melonseed already has this.

Lighten the frames: Next, I removed much of the interior frames. To keep things clear for myself, I drew each frame a different color. I added some holes in the sides just large enough to hold a paddle or oar in place. I made the interior so that no part of the frame as less than 2.5" thick. This is a good point to be to maintain the strength of the frames.

floorboards: Finally, I added the floorboards, on top of the lowest part of the frames. Once again, just a single cross-section view.

Tip: if you are unsure of how to do the structure, build a small scale cardboard model. You can play around with different designs and see how much flex you will have.

Step 4: Laying Out the Framework

Now that the design work is out of the way, we can get to building it!

• 1/2" plywood (2+ 4x8 sheets)
• drywall screws

Tip: When selecting plywood, exterior grade or better is an absolute must. You want to find plywood with few to no knots(B or A grade if possible). Additionally, more plies are better. Something around 1/2" thick with 5 plies is really good. You can use marine plywood, and it may last longer, but it will also cost a lot more. Another thing to check for is voids. If you see holes in the edge of the sheet, where one of the plies is missing, try to find a different piece.

Strongback: First, you're going to want to build a strongback. This is a straight rigid chunk of wood that you secure the frames to. It is important that it is rigid and square because any unevenness in this will be transferred to the boat.

I took some nice straight 2x4's and made a beam 2 2x4's wide, out of staggered pieces. Make sure one side is flat, as this is where we will attach frames. Secure your strongback to some sawhorses, and make sure the top of the strongback is level.

Next, start at one end, and label the strongback every foot. Then, make marks at every position you intend to put a frame. Now take some scrap 2x4s and attach them to the side at the marked frame positions. double-check that they are all vertical (obviously not for my transom).

Frames: Now, you can transfer all your frames to the wood. I used push pins to transfer the drawings to plywood, then connected the dot. I had no problem cutting mine out with a cheap jigsaw.

Next screw the frames on. Be sure to mark the height above the strongback each frame needs to be. (top of the strongback should be the lowest point on the boat). Clamp them so the top of each frame is level, then use at least two screws to secure them.

Step 5: Reinforcing the Frame

• Stringer + gunwale wood (I used southern yellow pine)
• stainless screws (1.5" and 2" long)
• PL Premium Adhesive (1 tube)
• Planks (king plank, deck, floor, coaming)

Tip: When selecting planks, try to find pieces with a close grain and small knots. The king plank is the only one that really needs to be large. I needed a king plank just over 5' long for this boat.

Tip 2: For the gunwales and stringers, choose the wood with the straightest, closest grain you can get your hands on. Avoid knots that are larger than 1/4", but if there are one or two, you can use butt blocks to reinforce those areas. Try to purchase the largest stock you can, such as 2x6 or 2x8. These will usually have much fewer knots. For this 13' 6" boat, 14' long stock worked just fine. Also, for pine, try to avoid wood that is full of sap. I've found that these pieces are much heavier and a lot weaker. (see photos for examples)

Now its time to add the things we drew in earlier.

King plank: First, add the king plank. Mark and measure each frame location on the plank to make sure they are all square. Then screw and glue the king plank in place.

Floor: Next, glue and screw in your floorboards, once again making sure every frame is square. Now a majority of the frames should be locked in place.

Coaming: I would also recommend using a router to round the top edge of the coaming before installing it. I made wooden 'knees' to brace the coaming against the frames and make the rigid box structure. You could use the seats to brace the coaming, but since I had a stringer going between the seat and coaming, I felt it wouldn't be strong enough. Also, use longer screws for this part.

Gunwales: Once again measure the distance between frames on either side of the boat, making sure they are still even.

Seats: Finally, screw+ glue them in place

Now, it officially looks like a boat! Double-check and make sure everything looks right, and that the frames are still centered and square. (you don't have to remove the boat from the strongback yet)

Step 6: More Frame Bits

Daggerboard Case: For this I used 3/8" plywood on either side, with a solid chunk on each side. I planned to use a 3/4" daggerboard, I made the slot 1 1/8" wide. 17" long. Be sure to leave plenty of space so you can add coatings etc. Before assembling the daggerboard, put several coats of spar varnish on the inside. Then glue it together.

When mounting the case in place, I glued every possible joint with PL premium, then put a layer of caulk on top of it all.

Mast step: 3 layers of 3/4" plywood on the bottom, 2 layers of 3/4" on the top, up against the king plank. Secure this with glue and some very long screws. whatever you put on the bottom, make sure there are drain holes so water doesn't pool here.

Oarlock mounts: I used a 1.5" thick piece of pine with 1/16" brass on either side. You can also use Aluminum, 1/8". This is glued below the seat. For positioning, if your boat doesn't give you a location, sit in the boat and clamp on the oars locks. Find someplace that is comfortable.

Supports for handles, cleats, etc: next you're going to want hardpoints to attach all the hardware. I added two near the transom for the handles. Under the king plank, I glued several small pieces below where I planned to attach screws for cleats. I also did the same on the transom, and even below where I planned to screw every handle.

I also added two 3" wide planks going from the back of the cockpit to the next frame. These help support the skin when somone sits in this area.

I would recommend having some sort of 'knee' at the corners where the transom meets the gunwale. This will help to absorb the force of the rudder.

Step 7: Installing the Stringers

• Tight-Grained wood stock (at least 10% longer than your boat)
• PL premium construction adhesive (2 caulk tubes)
• Stainless 1.5" nails
• stainless 1.5" screws (#6 -#8)

Tips: When selecting stringer wood, use the same guidelines as for the gunwales. choose screws that are fairly skinny, as if you go too large, it will compromise the strength of the stringers.

Milling: I used 3/4" x 3/4" stringers. These are fairly small, but that isn't a problem if you use a lot of them. To cut the stringers, you're going to want a table saw. A handheld circular saw can work, but I'd recommend securing it upside down to a table so it can function as a table saw. Then, be sure to round all the edges of the stringers. The fastest way to do this is with a hand plane, it usually takes a single pass on each corner.

Laying it out: Now its time to lay the stringers in place. You're going to want to put them in places that look nice, and that the wood comfortably conforms to. You should be able to tie/clamp the stringer down in only 3 places and have it completely follow the shape of the frames.

For the majority of this boat, there is average gap of 3.5" between two stringers. At the widest point, this gap is 5" this is about as far as you should go with 3/4" stringers. Any more and the skin will start touching the plywood frames. With stringers this small, and fairly gentle curves, you don't need to do any steam bending.

If the stringer doesn't sit flat on frames, take a rasp or file, and file it down to the angle it needs to be. This is especially important at the frames near the bow.

Attaching: Once you're happy with the layout, mark every point you plan to put a stringer. Start at the keel and work down. Line it up so the stringer goes just past the transom by an inch or so. Pilot drill holes, and screw the stringers to the middle frame. Then, temporarily tie them down near the bow and stern. screw the bow and stern, then you can nail or screw the frame to the remaining locations. Be sure to attach it where it naturally rests, don't try to force it into a position. I screwed stringers to every other frame, and nailed the rest.

Repeat until you get close to the strongback. then simply remove the boat from the strongback, and attach the remaining stringers with the boat upside down. Then add any top stringers you drew in.

Keel: Now is a good time to install the keel. Mock everything up and be sure you have all the supports you plan to use ready. Then just glue and screw it all in place.

I used a keel that was 3/4" thick x2" wide. Don't make the mistake I did of not putting enough material around the daggerboard slot. The keel should be made wider here to better glue the skin on. I ended this keel peice right before the curve gets steep at the bow and stern. To complete the keel, I added in a curved plywood peice at the bow and a small pine piece at the stern.

Step 8: Finishing the Frame

• Artificial Sinew
• more stainless screws
• Spar urethane

Tieing the stringers: Now we have to attach the stringers at the bow. This can be hard to get right, so just do it slowly with trial and error. You will have extra wood sticking forward, and will need to find the proper angle to cut each stringer.

I started near the gunwale, pulled the stringer as close as it would go to the keel, marekd and cut it at that angle, and repeated until the stringer sat flush with the bow. I then screwed and glued the stringer in place.

As I moved down, it got harder to bend the stringers in place. For some, I used the artificial sinew, warapped around the stringers on either side, then slotted a small peice of wood through the middle. Then I twisted the wood to pull the stringers into place. Finally, I screwed this peice of wood down. It doesn't look pretty, but it works well.

Once they are all attached, use a bead of PL premium to reinforce this joint and ensure the stringer doesn't come loose.

Finishing: Before you finish, go through and make sure everything feels stiff and secure. Also, check to make sure there are no sharp corners. You can test stiffness by having somone sitting on the boat while you pull on a post stuck where the mast goes.

Finally, seal the frame thoroughly with spar urethane. I used 3 fairly heavy coats.

Step 9: Skinning

• 8+ ounce polyester (I used 20ft, just barely enough)
• Artificial sinew Link
• Brass tacks or Stainless staples

Tip: The 'brass' tacks they have at hardware stores are actually steel pins with brass tops. I would recommend either using stainless staples or sourcing some proper brass or stainless tacks.

Fabric: For fabric, the best source I have found is emailing george dyson ([email protected]). He runs a web-based skin boat store. I ended up using 20 feet of his 8 ounce polyester (67" wide).

• Lighter/blowtorch
• large Curved Needles Like This
• clothes Iron

There are lots of Instructables on skin on frame kayaks, and I would recommend also looking at those to get a better understanding of the process.

Bottom: What I did was first measure and cut the fabric to fit over the bottom. Once it is cut to size, I used a lighter to carefully melt the edges where it was cut, so it doesn't fray. Start tacking down the skin from the front, and stop right before the daggerboard.

Now, put a nice thick layer of PL premium around the keel where the skin meets the daggerboard box. try to have 1" of glue around the entire slot. Put the skin over it and use some weights to push it down. Now finish tacking the center down.

Next tack on the gunwales. You want the fabric to end at the middle of the gunwales. Finally, tack the transom, and cut the remaining fabric off. I chose to sew a small triangular patch over the bow to lock the fabric in place, you could simply use the top fabric to do this.

Top: Now measure and cut the top. I had to piece together several scraps, as I had barely enough fabric for this. Tack this in place along the king plank and cockpit. I'd recommend putting some glue around the top of the daggerboard slot, and where the skin meets the coaming.

Connect: Next, Take the artificial sinew and start stitching the top and bottom together. Start at the bow, go down one side several feet, then switch to the other side. Try to get the seam close and flush, but any gaps will be sealed later. Once you reach the stern, tack the skin to the transom and cut off any excess.

Shrink: Once its all sewed on tight, wet the fabric so its damp, then run an iron over the surface to shrink it slightly. I'd recommend testing this on a sample first to figure out what heat setting is best for your iron.

This doesn't have to be perfect, as the paint will also shrink when it dries, tightening up the skin even more.

Step 10: Finish the Hull

• Rust Oleum High-performance protective enamel Link (1 gal)
• Flexible Marine Adhesive/Sealant Like This (1 tube is plenty)
• Stainless screws

Sealing: Next, We need to seal all the little holes. I used the marine adhesive to add some additional seal between the transom and the skin. I also spread a layer at the joint between the daggerboard casing and the skin. On the top, I put PL Premium at the joint between the coaming and the skin. Be careful not to put too much on. Then, along the gunwales where the stitching is, I Applied a healthy amount of Pl premium, from the bow to the stern. If you go back 10-15 minutes after the glue was applied and flatten it with a spatula, you can get a fairly smooth surface. Once the adhesive has dried, sand the glue with 200 grit sand paper to ensure the paint bonds well.

Painting: Now, It can finally be sealed. I used four coats of oil paint on the bottom, three coats on top. If you want a smoother surface, sand with 200grit between every coat after the second. You just have to be careful not to sand down to the bare fabric.

Fitting out: Once that's had some time to dry, all the fittings can be added. I also added a drain plug. I added the handles, cleats, and rudder mounts. Before mounting each peice of hardware, carefully put a layer of marine sealant down. This stuff is really thick and sticky, its easier if you work slowly. This will ensure no water seeps into the wood through the fasteners.

I also added a hatch. First, the fabric was cut out into a flap. Then, dual lock velcro was scerewed down to the frames on either side of the hatch. A peice of vinyl coated polyester was sewn on top of the flap, with dual lock velcro glued to its edges. This design works pretty well, and only leaks a little when the boat is flipped.

Rub Strips: I used 1/20th aluminum (1/2" wide) for strips along the bottom. I put strips on the keel and four closest stringers. First, lightly sand the area where the strip will go. Then test fit the aluminum. I had to split some into two, since the stringers near the bottom curved so much horizontally. The aluminum doesn't like bending in the plane where its 1/2" thick. Put a bead of marine sealant, and screw it down. Along the gunwales, I put strips of wood instead of aluminum, which looks really nice.

Step 11: The Sail

Just a heads up, You'll probably need more space to construct the sail then you did to build the boat.

• Tarp larger than your sail
• #69 size UV-Resistant Polyester Thread Like This
• 3/8" Brass Grommets
• 1/2" poly webbing Like This
• Some thick polyester fabric. (alternatively, you can use 3 layers of polytarp)

So, sails are basically just wings that point upwards. To get the most out of a sail you want to add natural curvature or 'camber' to the sail. That way, when the wind blows on it, it billows out and forms an airfoil shape. This provides extra lift, and lets you sail closer into the wind. Check out the resources below for a more in-depth explanation.

Designing: For my sail, I made a 2d CAD model of the sail. I then went 1/3 of the way back along the bottom, or 'foot' of the sail. I moved up the sail about 1.5 feet, then drew a line protruding vertically from the sail. The length of this line should be 10% of the horizontal length of the sail at that point. Following Michalak's guide for lug sails, I added a second point higher up, with once again, height 10% of the length. I then connected all corners to this point and formed a triangular surface. I took the lengths of the edges of each triangle and drew it out flattened. That became my sail pattern.

Sewing: I cut drew out this shape on the tarp, but left the material between the two front gaps, so instead I could make darts in the tarp. First I sewed the darts in, adding a second seam to keep them flat against the sail. I went over every seam twice, with the widest zig-zag the machine I had could do. After this, I used a layer of some heavy polyester fabric I had lying around to reinforce the corners. Polypropylene webbing was sewn to the parameter, and finally the I added grommets every 16". See photos for details.

• Jim Michalak's page on the balanced lug
• More info on shaping the sail

I'd highly recommend you purchase Jim Michalak's 'Boatbuilding For Beginners'. Link Even though It's focused on plywood boats, It's got a great guide on building your own sails. He also includes lots of good stuff on making oars, rudders, and basic sailing + rowing knowledge.

Attachments

Step 12: other bits.

Rudder: as you may see in the photos, I originally started with a traditional melonseed rudder, then switched to this modern kick-up rudder. This rudder is much more effective, whereas the traditional one really didn't have enough surface area for the size of the sail. See the pictures for guidance. both pivots on the rudder are 1/2" stainless bolts. Better Quality Picture

Rudder: The actual rudder board is 29" tall by 8", 3/4" thick. I used a router to round the front and back edge. See the photos for the setup I used to cut the back edge.

Tiller: it is important this is a stout piece of wood. After switching to the larger rudder, I had a tiller snap on me under a sudden gust of wind. What I have now, and works well, is a T beam formed out of two separate pieces of wood. This reinforces the tiller the most near the rudder pivot, where it needs to be strongest. I also have an extendable tiller handle, so I can switch the tiller length, based on if there are one or two people aboard.

Hardware: I used an aluminum 1x1 tube, 1/16" thick, to attach the hinge ato the rudder (called the pintle). I used a 1/4" aluminum angle to attach the hinge to the transom (called the gudgeon). The hinge is a 3/8" stainless threaded rod. A cotter pin large enough to fit over the rod is used to lock it in place once its mounted.

I really like this hardware because it is simple, yet very strong. One change I would make if I could is to replace the threaded rod with a smooth rod, or a bolt with a very long shank.

Daggerboard: See photos if you're trying to recreate it. Although I planned to use a 3/4" thick board, I ended up using 5/8" plywood I had lying around. So far it has been strong enough, even taking the force of flipping the boat back when its full of water. Plywood, however, is very difficult to shape into a rounded edge. If you use marine plywood it will be easier. This daggerboard is more angled than the original melonseed because I used a large sail.

It may be worth experimenting with different daggerboard shapes. If I used daggerboard that was just a vertical plank, the boat would have a very strong weather helm, or tendency to turn into the wind. A small amount is good, but too much can make it impossible to sail.

Mast: I used a 2x6 to make the mast. It is 2" x 2.25" square, 13' 3" tall. I cut two pieces (side by side on the 2x4), 2"x2.25", then flipped one and glued + clamped them with PL premium. Flipping one of the pieces helps to cancel out any tendency a piece of wood might have to start to distort over time. The flipped piece will have the same tendency, in the opposite direction. If you want a really nice mast, you can spend hours with a sand belt and a drill. I instead used a router to just put a 1/2" radius curve on all the edges.

Spars: Since the sail I have is a lug rig, it has two other spars: the boom and the yard. Each are a single peice of pine 1.5" x1.5". The boom is 12' long with slightly rounded corners. The yard is 10' long, rounded so it is nearly circular. Funnily enough, I initially made the boom several feet too small. I screwed and lashed a scrap piece of wood I had lying around to make it long enough, and its stayed that way for nearly two years. Someday I'll remake it.

Oarlocks: pictured are my most successful oarlocks. The base is a 1/2" stainless threaded rod. 1/4" stainless steel rod is bent into the U shape, then looped around the 1/2" rod, then follows itself back to the start. Some clear tubing helps hold the 1/4" rod on, and also protects the oar.

I realized that it just isn' worth it for me to have this oarlock setup since I mostly sail. I sealed the holes where the oarlocks used to go, and use a kayak paddle instead.

Name: don't forget to give your boat a name!

Step 13: Testing

Now you'll want to find some body of water you can safely flip the boat in.

Test the hull first, without the sail. First, check for leaks. Then, put the daggerboard in, flip the boat, and see how hard it is to right. This is very important because you want to know how to do this BEFORE your upside down in the middle of a lake. If you'd like, try it with the sail on. You'll have to go a lot slower due to the weight of water on the sail. After testing this boat, I realized that water could still make its way into the when it's on its side. I decided to add 'knees' at the corners where the water was too close.

Now, try setting up the entire boat at home. make sure you know how to set up the sail, and practice it several times. You'll learn the order you have to set things up, and if there's anything you forgot about. After setting up the rig several times, I realized that I cannot possibly pull on the downhaul with enough force to keep the sail tight, so I added a 4:1 pulley reduction to the downhaul.

Edit: I also learned that the bottom of the transom of my boat sat about 1" below the waterline when fully loaded. When setting up the forms, I had shifted the transom down about 1" because I felt it was far too high, and the boat should be a lot lighter than the original anyway. Turns out the original plans were spot on, and that's something I probably should have stuck to.

Step 14: Sail!

Finally! Be sure to only sail in waters and conditions you feel comfortable sailing in. One of these boats won't sink when full of water, but they are an absolute pain to get OUT of the water once their swamped. Find some sheltered water, and check your local wind forecast. Try to do a first test in 6-8mph wind. This will be very light, and will ensure you can figure out any issues with your sail or boat without capsizing.

If you've never sailed before, get some experience in another small boat. There are lots of sailing clubs that would be happy to teach you. Something like a Sunfish is great to first learn on. It's much better to learn in a boat that has been proven, plus it will give you a benchmark to compare your own boat to.

I included some short videos of sailing this boat. Overall it handles very well. In the second video, you'll see the wind shifted and I accidentally Gibed. The boat was tipped a little over 45 degrees, but did not flip. I am thoroughly impressed with what this boat can handle.

If I were to build this again, on the same budget, I would try to find some lighter wood, and remove some of the redundant structures. I would probably use thin plywood for the seats instead of pine boards. I would cut larger lightening holes in the frames. The current weight of 85lbs isn't too bad, but it would be nice if it was 75lbs.

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Somehow the method has languished in the intervening decades. A couple of venerable plans catalogs still stock vintage skin kayaks, but there are only two contemporary designs other than my own that I know of. This is unfortunate in the large view of things, but on the other hand it affords me the opportunity (full disclosure again) to scuttle, like an opportunistic hermit crab, into this unoccupied niche and wave my flag.

I do not exaggerate when I say that a fuselage-frame skin boat is the cheapest and easiest way to build your own kayak. Materials for a basic Egret are less than $300, much less expensive than plywood or strip-built kayaks. All wood can be purchased at a lumberyard, and even if the builder elects to use okoume ply for the frames, the cost remains within this parameter. Heat-shrink Dacron is less than $4/yard. Even the addition of Xynole polyester fabric and epoxy, if one prefers a laminated skin, does not send the bill through the roof.

Building a fuselage-style frame is about as easy as boatbuilding gets. The building jig can be as simple as a straight 2x6, although the instruction book included with Egret’s plans shows how to make a plywood box-beam strongback. The keel is a length of 3/4” x 1” wood, slotted at either end for the stem and stern pieces. The frames and bulkheads are easily cut out using the full-size patterns, then are positioned on simple uprights and glued to the keel. Stringers are bent around the frames, glued and screwed to the stem and stern and also glued to the frames. The bends are gentle and do not require steaming. Not much to it, is there? After that, there is the cockpit opening. Two thin laminates are bent into an oval for the cockpit carlins. Some steaming is best here, but that can be accomplished by wrapping the wood in towels and saturating with boiling water. No need to build any elaborate steam-box contraption.

Egret is not just a rerun of mid-20th-century fuselage-style kayaks, though. The filleted epoxy joints at the intersection of every frame and longitudinal permit the use of thinner plywood and stringers than are found on older skin boats.

1/2 inch ply was the standard in the 50s and 60s, but Egret does just fine with 1/4 inch (6mm). That’s a significant saving of weight, and thinner frames permit some flexing while retaining the box-like strength of the glued joints. One can wiggle the end of a naked Egret frame as it sits on sawhorses and wonder if it’s too flexible, but once the skin is attached and shrunk taut, everything is brought into balance.

Heat-shrink Dacron is a modern miracle. Anyone who has wrestled with #10 duck canvas and copper tacks will appreciate how easily Dacron attaches to the frame. The fabric is draped over the frame, then pinned and slit at the ends. The appropriate contact cement is applied to the stem, stern and to the sheer stringers, and the fabric is attached. There is none of the hassle of chasing wrinkles by pulling and repositioning tacks, as is the case with a canvas skin. Dacron is a lighter and more pliable fabric, and any minor wrinkles flatten out when it is shrunk with a common household iron. Neither canvas nor other synthetic fabrics have the shrinking capacity of aircraft Dacron, and they are much harder to work with.

The addition of a layer of Xynole polyester and epoxy over the Dacron skin is yet another example of how modern materials improve the genre. An outer layer of Xynole adds a bit of weight, but increases the strength of the skin considerably and provides a high degree of finish. Sometimes it’s hard to tell it’s a skin boat because of the smooth, faired surface. Xynole is known for its abrasion resistance, and I suspect it would be hard to rip this composite skin with anything short of a sharpened narwhal tusk. Hypalon, used to coat inflatables and river rafts, is another high-strength way to augment the already tough Dacron.

Put all these innovations together and the fuselage-frame skin kayak becomes a new creature. I’d call it a kayak for the 21st century, but that would be trite. I’d call it a young athlete compared to an old sack of bones, but that would be unfair to your father’s skin boat, which, after all, was a lot of fun. Let’s just say that we have new ways of doing a fine old thing.

Other articles about skin-on-frame kayaks:

• Introducing Egret
• King Canvasback Kayak
• Light Skin-on-Frame Boats
• Folding Kayak
• A Skin on Frame Boat
• Colorado River 100 Boat
• Time on the River
• Skin on Frame
• Skin on frame Proa
• Prototype For A Kure

• Free Canoe-Kayak Boat Plans

Skin on Frame Boatbuilding Method

Skin on frame refers to a method of boatbuilding that has been around for a very long time. Typically a light frame often made of wood is assembled. This is then covered by a waterproof membrane. The resulting boat is light and econonmical of material

National Film Board Documentary (Ford Foundation) of Canadian Arctic Netsilik Kayak being made circa 1965. Lots of scenes of fishing and just living.

Part 2 sees the Kayak completed and a test drive by the builder.

Here is a link to The Bark Canoes and Skin Boats of North America by Adney and Howard Chapelle, It's a free title from the Gutenberg Project. Several formats available.

Kayaks and Umiaks

The first type of skin on frame boat that comes to mind is the Northern Kayaks. These were carefully assembled using scarce driftwood frames or sometimes whalebone, and covered with animal skins. Typically the frame was lashed together using rawhide or sinew. Wetting the rawhide allows it to stretch and as it dries it shrinks pulling the joints tightly together. Before metal tools were available, joints such as mortise and tenon were difficult to cut, many joints were shallow depressions instead, and having a material that held the joined pieces together was a great advantage. Often bow drills were used to make holes for the lashing.

Photo by flickr user wili hybrid - flickr.com, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=986538

Because these boats were lashed and covered in flexible skin they were able to give and move somewhat under stress. Just as the Viking ship lashing allowed movement and prevented stress to build up in one spot causing failure, the kayak were flexible.

Kayak Building Project by the students of Qaggalik School in Kimmirut Nunavut

Bending the wood strips was done by wetting in hot water and gently tapping or chewing on the ribs to coax them to bend.

The covering was often fresh seal skin. The adhering hair was scraped off as was fat and flesh. Carefully stretched so that it would shrink evenly it would help keep the shape of the Kayak. Meticulous stitching produced a watertight joint between skins. Once the skin dried it was covered with fat to help keep it waterproof and stop it from stretching out.

Many Inuit communities developed their own style of kayak. There is not one unified pattern but many traditional ways of putting together the frame.

While the Kayak was a fast silent one man boat used for hunting and fishing, the umiak was a large boat (upwards of 20 feet) used to carry larger cargo and to go longer distances. The kayak was a hunter's boat, the umiak (or woman's boat) was for travel, transportation and longer expeditions with several people aboard.

The original dry suit was sealskin with wrists and hood tightly closed and the waist attached to the opening of the kayak.

A fun place to explore Greenland types and other Kayaks is Instructable website. The link is for a 7 part step by step instructions on making a greenland type Kayak.

David W.Zimmerley has a great website on Kayaks and how to build them including plans for several types of Kayaks and paddles. Worth wandering through. His plans seem to be free and he has a publication he has written that can be purchased online.

Traditionally Skin on frame boats were covered with animal skins and later when it became available with painted canvas.

Modern Skin on Frame Boats Can be Ultralight.

Modern skin on frame boats are being constructed from wood frames and covered with ultra strong light fabrics. Once the fabric is attached to the frame (often with heat actiated glue) it is gently heated to cause it to shrink and tighten. This results in remarkably light boats some less than 20 pounds.

The availability of ultra strong adhesives and fabrics make it possible to construct surprisingly strong crafts. Whereas the old style boats were lashed and moved as they were used, some modern builders construct rigid structures that gain in efficiency. Stiffer boats are usually faster and more efficient but need to be stronger since there is little give.

Skin on frame is a building method that has been used for years on airplanes and the methods and materials have transfered to boats quite well.

Geodesic Airolite Has designed several ultra light boats using wood frames glued with epoxy rather than lashed and skinned with heat shrink polyester. Extra strength and rigidity is provided with Kevlar roving threads. The resulting boats are extremely light and surprisingly resistant. They are also very pretty.

Kudzu Craft canoes are also skin on frame. This is a fun video where the demonstrator pounds and eventually makes a hole in a skin on frame boat. They use Nylon or Dacron (polyester) but sewn not glued as Geodesic Aerolite does. then heat shrunk. They also have good videos on skinning a boat with polyester.

There are advantages to both Nylon and Dacron. Polyester (Dacron) seems to be a favourite. Nylon although strong and resistant, stretches when wet. It is also resistant to most paints. Polyester is more stable and can be painted with many different finishes. Polyester can also be easily shrunk with moderate heat.

All builders discourage the use of heat guns in favour of an iron because it is easier to control. A very light hand is needed to use a heat gun and it is easy to melt the fabric.

Silliness or is it?

At the complete end of the skin on frame spectrum, here are instructions to build a tree branch and polytarp skin on frame kayak also from Instructables.

Small Print

I don't claim to be an expert in anything. If you want to build a boat do your homework first. Using high tech materials usually require that you do it right for them to work. Use safety equipment and wear a lifejacket when paddling.

Skin on Frame Boatbuilding

(Fall 2011 - Spring 2012)

Arrow project:, related links:,  intro & cross sections.

Here's a lightweight canoe. The frame was built from plans and instructions from Platt Monfort but skinned with a heavier fabric using ideas from Hilary Russell. Construction details follow:

The plan package received from Geodesic Airolite Boats.

A full-size cross-section plan taped to some thin poster board.

Lines were transferred to poster board with a pushpin.

Connecting the pin holes with a pencil and straightedge. The shape was cut out to create a traceable template.

I traced around the half-pattern onto Luan plywood, then flipped the pattern and traced the second half. Two sets of three unique station are used for this symmetrical canoe.

Full-size plans are provided for other components too, including these stem pieces. Mine are made from oak and marine-grade plywood scraps from a previous project.

The strong back from my Sea Tour build was too short for this project, so I lengthened it by attaching a longer board with some additional bracing.

A wire stretched along the length of the strongback served as a centerline/baseline reference.

Here is the complete strong back ready for the station forms to be attached.

The six forms are aligned with the center line, accurately positioned horizontally and vertically and screwed into place.

The project stalled at this point for several months as I waited for an available weekend to purchase the remaining wood and coordinate schedules with a friend who volunteered to rip the lumber.

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Article Tag: skin-on-frame

T he Wee Lassie canoe dates back to the early 1880s when canoeist and outdoor writer George Washington Sears, known as Nessmuk, asked John Henry Rushton, a boatbuilder in Canton, New York, to design and build a small lightweight canoe. The result was the WEE LASSIE, an open cedar lapstrake canoe 10′6″ long and 27″ wide. While Sears, a diminutive man at 5′3″ and 103 lbs, also asked Rushton to build an even smaller canoe, SAIRY GAMP, most of us would need something larger. Mac MacCarthy, a century after Rushton, stretched the Wee Lassie to 13′ 6″ by 29″ and called the new design Wee Lassie II.

Phil completed this skin-on-frame WEE BONNIE, the first of his canoes, in 2006. The maple leaf, emblem of his Canadian homeland, appears on Phil’s boats, often more than once.

Phil Boyer of Napanee, Ontario, started work on a cedar-strip Wee Lassie II in 2005 but only got as far as setting up the molds when he discovered that canoes could be built quite quickly as skin-on-frame boats. He decided to switch techniques while using the same molds. Western red cedar, salvaged from a deck he had demolished, supplied much of the wood he needed. He skinned the frame with ballistic nylon, dyed it green, and waterproofed it with two-part urethane.

In the spring of 2006, Phil’s sister died of cancer, and when he launched the canoe, he christened it in her honor. Her given name was Carol, but Phil had always called her Bonnie. She was born while her father was overseas during World War II and away during the first 1-1/2 years of her life. A Scottish nurse helped with the childrearing during his absence, and whenever she brought the infant Carol to her mother, she’d say, “Here is your wee bonnie.” The name Bonnie stuck and WEE BONNIE is what Phil called all of the modified Wee Lassie II canoes that he built.

This cedar-strip WEE BONNIE, launched in 2007, is the first canoe that Phil started on but the second that he finished. It had to wait while he used its molds for his skin-on-frame adaptation.

In the year following the launch of the first canoe, Phil went back to his original strip-built project. He was pleased with the canoe when he got it afloat, though at 42 lbs, it was heavier than the nylon-skinned version, and he thought he could do better.

Phil’s insulating-foam version of the canoe, built in 2009, weighed 32 lbs. The hull was finished “bright,” letting the light blue color of the foam come through.

In 2009, he decided to build another stripper and make it as light as possible. He substituted 1/2″ slices of foam insulation for the wood strips. The foam was much more delicate than wood and required care to get them to take fair curves between the molds. Even when glued edge to edge, the strips were very flexible and took a light touch to fair. Carbon-Kevlar fabric would have kept the canoe’s finished weight quite low, but Phil spared himself the extra expense and covered the hull inside and out with 6-oz fiberglass and epoxy. This third WEE BONNIE came in at 32 lbs, and Phil was pleased with how well the experimental construction performed.

The 2015 WEE BONNIE, the second of the three skin-on-frame canoes, was skinned with ballistic nylon.

In 2015 Phil built another skin-on-frame canoe, using lighter nylon to save some weight and equipping it with an innovative seat. A few years earlier, while canoe camping with two of his friends on Opalescence Lake in Algonquin Park, his friend Phil was using one of the three WEE BONNIEs and had commented that the portage yoke was a nuisance when not in use and suggested incorporating a yoke in the seat. Phil liked the idea and came up with a seat that pivoted to become a yoke. The new canoe got the latest version of the arrangement; switching it from paddling mode to portage takes just 30 seconds.

Do you have a boat with an interesting story? Please email us. We’d like to hear about it and share it with other Small Boats Magazine readers.

WEE LASSIE SURVIVOR

James made his Wee Lassie frame from oak, cedar, spruce, cherry, and marine plywood. The hull is a vinyl-backed polyester covered with marine varnish.

J ames Shamis grew up in the Adirondacks, where traveling among the lakes and ponds required boats that were lightly built and easily portaged. In his late teen years, he spent his summers working for Milo Williams restoring antique Adirondack guideboats. While working in Milo’s shop on the north shore of Little Moose Lake, he grew to appreciate the beauty of the guideboats and the pleasure of working with wood.

Among all of the boats Milo had under his care was a Wee Lassie, an undecked canoe designed by Henry Rushton. “I had never seen such a small boat before,” James said. “I thought it was a child’s boat the first time I saw it, and, after many days of prodding on my part, Milo finally let me bring it down and take it for a paddle. I was in love!”  James had enjoyed rowing the guideboats, but the Wee Lassie, powered by a double-bladed paddle, was light and quick. And he was on his own. “No room for a guest, just me and the water.”

James made up his mind that he’d someday have a Wee Lassie, but the years slipped by and he never found one he could buy and restore. Still, his fondness for the canoe endured for decades.

James preferred lashing the frame together over the messier work of using screws and epoxy.

In 2015, doctors discovered James had a vocal-cord cancer. Glottic cancers respond well to radiation treatment and are almost always curable, but the health scare was a wake-up call for James. During his radiation treatments, his thoughts were drawn to his teenage years and the time he spent paddling the Wee Lassie on Little Moose Lake. The memories were his refuge during a difficult time, and after a few rounds of radiation he decided to bring a Wee Lassie back into his life—he’d build his own.

James added decks as reminders of the Adirondack guide boats he used to work on as a teenager.

Rushton’s original Wee Lassie, built in 1893, was 10′6″ long, weighed just 20 lbs, and was a delicate lapstrake construction of cedar planks, just 3/16″ thick, on closely spaced steam-bent oak frames. Building a replica true to the original would require the skills of an experienced craftsman. For a first boatbuilding project, James was drawn to Dave Gentry’s version of the Wee Lassie, an adaptation for skin-on-frame construction that would be quick to build, require nominal skills, and yet be as light as the original.

James tries the frame on for size before skinning the canoe. Cody imagines swimming alongside.

In July 2015, James had his last radiation treatment and rested for just two days before beginning building his Wee Lassie. Working in his barn, he got off to a slow start as he gradually regained his strength. When he would return to the house after working for a spell on the canoe, his wife would ask, “What are you doing out there in the barn?” “Building a boat,” he’d reply. She would laugh and say, “Oh, okay….” Weeks went by before she came out to the barn and, to her surprise, there was indeed a boat taking shape there.

James made a woven Adirondack pack basket as a fitting accompaniment to his canoe.

In the Gentry plans, there are two options for fastening the longitudinals to the plywood frames: lashings or screws and epoxy. James opted for lashings. The nylon artificial sinew gave the connections flexibility in addition to great strength. He departed from the plans to add decks fore and aft to give his Wee Lassie a touch of Adirondack-guideboat class. This decorative touch brought the weight to 25 lbs, a bit over the 19 lbs specified in the plans, but still an easy carry.

James’s version of the Gentry Wee Lassie came in at 24 lbs, an easy carry in the backcountry.

James finished the canoe in three months, christened it WEE LASSIE SURVIVOR, and took his first outing on the waters of Lake Delta, not far from his home in Rome, New York. The moment she was afloat transported him back to his summers paddling Milo’s Wee Lassie on Little Moose Lake.

Cody heels dutifully by land and by lake.

Have you recently launched a boat? Please email us. We’d like to hear about it and share your story with other Small Boats Monthly readers.

A MacIntosh Canvas Boat

Middle schoolers have the privilege of taking MSS BROOKWOOD out rowing on Cutler Pond on the edge of the school grounds.

H alfway between Swampscott and Gloucester on the Massachusetts North Shore is Brookwood, a private school serving students from pre-kindergarten to the eighth grade. Located in an area with a rich maritime history, it was, perhaps, inevitable that boatbuilding would work its way into the school’s curriculum. The idea had been floating around the school’s faculty for a few years and when one of the school’s classrooms was scheduled to be vacant during the 2015/2016 school year, the space was available for a workshop.

Sven Holch and his fellow fourth- and fifth-grade teachers took the opportunity to introduce 90 students to “design thinking and project-based learning” under the guise of hands-on boatbuilding. The students were divided into nine “watches” with maritime names like Stellwagen, after the Stellwagen Bank fishing grounds. Every week, each watch would gather in the Boatyard, as the classroom had been named, ready to do some boatbuilding.

The design chosen for the build was the 9′ canvas-on-frame double-ended tender designed and built by Ned MacIntosh back in the 1940s when he and his wife were living aboard their Atkin cutter STAR CREST in Panamanian waters. The boat caught on among other cruisers, especially after Ned added a sailing rig.  Soon there was a fleet of about 20 of them. When STAR CREST returned home to New Hampshire Ned made more of these lightweight tenders. Maynard Bray, an author of many books on boatbuilding and a frequent contributor to WoodenBoat, saw the tender, took a liking to it, and measured one of them to create drawings to work from to build one for himself. His plans were the starting point for the Brookwood project.

Boatbuilding was new territory not only for the students but also for some of the teachers who participated in the project.  “We’re all starting from ground zero,” said Sven. “Building a boat together is the perfect place to practice not knowing anything. We’re using the boatbuilding project as a way to teach about learning styles—metacognition. The kids can think about their thinking at this age.”

From the very beginning, the students kept journals documenting their progress:

“Today I learned about a stern. At first I thought that it was the front of the boat but I learned that it was the back of a boat.”

“Today I also built replicas of the boat. They were nine inches. We had to scarf the stringers. We had to cover it with paper. And use popsicle sticks to make seats.”

The hands-on project gave student real-world connections to academic studies. “The math, science and classic STEM curricula tie to the project in numerous ways,” Sven noted, “including but not limited to displacement, angles, scale, joinery, characteristics of water, measurement and more.”

The canvas boat has held up well for the three years it has been used by students to practice rowing on the school’s pond.

The boat was launched on Cutler Pond, situated between the school and its soccer fields, and christened MSS BROOKWOOD in a ceremony led by Head of School Laura Caron, made Admiral of the fleet for the occasion. The MSS stands for Middle School Ship. Students took turns rowing around a duck-sized schoolhouse—complete with a Brookwood-style cupola—that floats in the middle of the pond.  Rowing became the next learning opportunity after the boatbuilding.

The boat’s bow bears the heron from the school’s logo. The pond is a good habitat for herons, so the school chose it as its symbol when the school was founded in 1956. This version is now “old school,” as the logo was updated this summer.

Ruth Wherry

I t is hard to capture the feeling of a good pulling boat, but perhaps the best way to sum it up is to say that some boats just glide and will cover great distances on the water with seemingly no effort at all. A few pulls are all that are needed to reveal a well-designed wherry. With the skin-on-frame Ruth, Dave Gentry has created an interesting adaptation of a classic rowing wherry that captures that elusive quality of glide.

The Ruth, with its fabric skin, and well-thought-out, easily built wooden frame, keeps the weight down to around 45 lbs, light enough for this 18-footer to be singlehandedly cartopped with ease. Gentry’s plans are a complete, well-illustrated, easy-to-follow, and include paper templates for the plywood frames.

The structure for the Ruth is a combination of plywood and lightweight western red cedar stringers. The 1/2″ marine-plywood stem, frames, and transom are notched for the full-length strips that bend from bow to stern and give shape to the wherry. Joining frames to stringers takes only a bit of thickened epoxy and stainless-steel screws. Even the most inexperienced builder with basic tools can have a frame built in just a few hours. The plywood breasthook and various supporting knees are laid out in the paper templates as well. They are essential strengthening elements and relatively simple to add with a bit of beveling and finesse.

The fabric skin goes on with a combination of stainless-steel staples and only a bit of handiwork with needle and thread. The plans recommend 8-oz polyester. Nylon durability is well regarded among the skin-on-frame kayak builders; Gentry mentions it as an acceptable alternative with a precaution that it does not heat-shrink as well as polyester.

A good pneumatic or electric stapler makes short work of the hundreds of staples that a fix the skin along the entire gunwale, but a hand stapler would also adequately do the job, albeit with a bit of fatigue at the end of the day. An extra set of hands for the skinning step is helpful. You can do the job solo, keeping the skin in proper alignment with push-pins straight along the keelson. The addition of the gunwale later on hides the staples, but care should be taken to set them consistently at a depth that holds and doesn’t cut or pull the cloth askew at each staple.

The author’s Ruth is rigged with a home-built rowing rig for solo rowing and is without floorboards and a seat for a passenger. A false transom covers the edges of the fabric skin for a tidier appearance.

The skin wraps around the transom and particular care should be taken to do a neat job with the folds and the copper nails; they will be visible when the boat is completed. On my build, I first used upholstery tacks as a decorative touch, but they didn’t hold well, and the folded fabric edge wasn’t as tidy as I’d hoped. I decided to hide the fabric and the staples with a false transom of 1/8″ plywood. It added very little weight and looks tidy.

The only stitching required for the skin is at the bow. Even for the uninitiated, this short section can be accomplished rather easily. In addition to the supplied directions, helpful video tutorials are available online. Since polyester can easily unravel once cut, the edges need to be heat-sealed. If you don’t have a hot knife specifically made for the task, a flat cutting tip on a soldering gun works like a charm.

After the skin is attached to the frame, the gentle use of an iron will remove wrinkles and pull the skin taut. The polyester fabric needs to be sealed to become fully waterproof and the instructions call for oil-based paint or varnish.  Inexpensive latex porch/floor paint, a favorite of many skin-on-frame builders, seems to hold up well, and can always be touched up or recoated. Marine topside paints, aside from being more expensive, are hard when fully cured and don’t seem to fare well applied to a flexible fabric surface.

The length and enough fullness in the ends keep the Ruth in trim as the rower’s weight shifts back and forth on a sliding seat.

Once the skin is on, the rubrail and skeg round out a finished hull. Although the skeg is attached with screws through the skin, no leaks have developed and reinforcement by way of a short piece of brass fixed along the trailing edge of the skeg and the transom has proven ample support.

The plans detail an interior layout that consists of a rowing station and passenger seats. Designer Dave Gentry opted to rig his own Ruth with a fixed seat with simple outriggers as laid out in the original plans, a good option if you’re building on a limited budget. Fixed-seat rowing will require a pair of locks and simple plywood outriggers attached to the gunwales. A pair of 7′ to 7′ 6″ oars are a good fit.

The plans also include guidance on installing sliding-seat rowing units. I equipped my Ruth with a custom-built sliding seat rig that was designed around plans and a hardware kit ($299) from Colin Angus. Ready-made drop-in rigs like the Piantedosi ($595) have been successfully employed by many Ruth builders.

The author has been able to bring the Ruth up to 6 knots in a short sprint and can hold 4 to 5 knots at a sustainable effort.

My Ruth weighs 55 lbs with the addition of the built-in rowing rig. The boat is very comfortable on flat water and can take on a bit of chop. I can easily sustain a cruising speed of 4 to 5 knots using a 9’6” pair of carbon-fiber hatchet-blade sculls. Top speed for me is a little better than 6 knots, but the extra effort to sustain the sprint seems hard to justify when rowing for pleasure.

G etting aboard is not difficult, but care does need to be taken about foot placement to protect the skin. The plans detail lightly constructed floor boards for a fixed seat; I omitted them because they would have interfered with the placement of the sliding-seat rig.

I usually launch in shallow water and get aboard by sitting on the seat first and then swinging my legs into the boat. Under way, the stability is very good and the Ruth provides a dry ride even when things become a little rough. The craft’s light weight lets me come up to speed very quickly in just a few strokes and the sharp bow ensures that I can maintain speed even in modest chop. The skeg assures that hull will track well underway and yet allows for reasonable maneuvering in tight quarters.

While this Ruth isn’t equipped with a seat for a passenger, the reserve buoyancy created by the transom will support the additional weight without putting the hull well out of trim.

The greater freeboard of the wherry design, compared to a traditional scull, does lend itself to a little fight in a crosswind, but weathercocking is not excessive and easily corrected. At 18′, the Ruth does an admirable job avoiding the tendency of shorter craft to hobby horse as a rower’s weight shifts fore and aft with the sliding seat. I built my Ruth for solo outings and didn’t install the passenger seat.

The 8-oz polyester skin specified in the plans might make one wonder about its long-term durability. There isn’t much between the rower and the water, but after three years the skin is still in good shape and has no tears or punctures. In the plans, Gentry mentions the option of adding a skim coat of a polyurethane adhesive along areas where abrasion is likely. The challenge is to keep it thin enough not to bubble up while curing, but, when successful, it provides an additional measure of security.

Jim Dumser is a husband, father, teacher, and boatbuilder who is lucky to have had the opportunity to share the art and love of boats with his daughters and his students for the past decade. Building boats is the natural extension of his time spent starting and teaching the Wood Arts program at North Carolina’s Community School of Davidson where students have built a number of boats from canoes to a St. Ayles Skiff. 

Ruth Particulars

Weight/45 lbs

Maximum capacity/375 lbs

Plans ($65 for paper, $55 for digital) and kits ($500) for the Ruth  are available from Gentry Custom Boats . 

Update : The Gentry website seems to be down. Duckworks has plans for the Ruth . 7/14/22

Is there a boat you’d like to know more about? Have you built one that you think other Small Boats Monthly readers would enjoy? Please email us!

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Cape Falcon Kayak

Skin-on-frame canoe building course.

Custom skin-on-frame canoe building system

Course description

The "66 canoe" is a comprehensive skin-on-frame canoe building system that lets you control all of the shaping variables to build a canoe that is customized to your paddling lifestyle. This 12 hour video course and downloadable 30-page PDF plan set puts you in the classroom with me, ensuring that your first skin-on-frame build is easy, fun, and successful.

Watch the evolution of this design from concept to release on our YouTube Channel.

FIND MORE INFO ON OUR WEBSITE    //   CHECK OUT SOME STUDENT-BUILT CANOES

Generally, we refine designs for years before releasing them as student builds. This early release "beta version" was designed to offer the building system early at a lower cost to those who want to start building now.

LICENSING AGREEMENT:

See video for additional details. This online video course is intended for use by one builder only. Multiple persons may not work from a single course, with the exception of children under 18 working with an adult. Purchase allows you to build unlimited canoes for personal use or as gifts for others who ARE NOT BUILDING. Commercial use is allowed with written permission and a fee per boat, contact for details.  Violating the licensing agreement is bad karma!

Course curriculum

Introduction.

Course Introduction

Tips for a successful Canoe build, READ THIS FIRST

Licensing Agreement

How the Course is Organized

Safety Disclaimer

Tips for Avoiding a Tippy Canoe (PLEASE WATCH THIS VIDEO)

CANOE COURSE UPDATES AND CHANGES, READ THESE BEFORE BUILDING!

Process Overview Videos

Visual Overview of the Pack Canoe Building Process

Visual Overview of Building a Solo Single Blade Canoe

Time Lapse of the Entire Canoe Building Process

The Same Time Lapse Slowed Down 50% Gives clearer views of each step, 23 min long

Odds and Ends

Color Options for Skin on Frame Boats, Acid Dye vs. Earth Pigments

Workspace Setup and Tips for an Efficient Build

Canoe Seating Overview. (full size canoes only)

Planning for Keel Strips and Stem Bands

Canoe Rudder Overview

Overview of Polyurethanes, Oils, Glues, and Varnishes

Canoe Plan Set

SAMPLE Plan Set

Downloadable Plan Set: VERSION 2.2

Various Canoe Examples

My Latest Thoughts on Canoe Design

Solo Canoe with Tumblehome 15'1" x 30" 4/29/2021

Solo Canoe with Tumblehome 14' x 30" 6/1/2021

Solo Canoe 14' x 30" built by Gabe Batson (student) 2021

Solo canoe 14'8" x 31 1/2" built by Gabe Batson (student)

Student Built Tandem Canoe 16'3" x 36" 6/20/2021 (built with Yellow Cedar Ribs!)

Student Built Tandem 17' x 36" 2/1/2021

Tools, wood, and other materials

Tools For Skin on Frame Building

Tablesaw Safety Tips

Selecting Softwoods

Selecting Hardwoods

Understanding Bending Wood Grain

Estimating Quantity and Price of Bending Wood, and Communicating with Suppliers

Building the Steambox

Bending Oak Suppliers (text only)

Canoe Skin Choices (text only)

Prepping for the build

Layout Process Overview

Cutting the Gunwales, Stringers, and Keel

Rounding the Stringers

Laying Out the Gunwales

Measuring the Rocker Heights

Setting Up For Laminating

Laminating the Gunwales

Cleaning up the Lamination and Cutting the Gunwales

Fastening the Gunwales Together and Cutting to Length

Setting up the Plunge Router

Cutting the Mortises

Measuring Sheer Heights

Calculating Center Depth

Cutting Stem Lengths and Angles

Angled Stem Layout

Alternate Curved Stem Layout

Making the Spreader Forms and Final Gunwale Prep

Building the deck

Installing Spreader and Capture Forms

Kerfing the Gunwale Ends

Tying the Gunwale Tips Together

Checking for Symmetry

Doweling the Gunwale Tips and Trimming the Ends

Making the Rub Rails

Varnishing the Rub Rails

Attaching Stems and Center Block

Checking the Stem Angles and Setting the Rocker

Temporarily Attaching the Stems to the Keel

Bending in the ribs

Making the Rib Length Measuring Stick

Prepping the Rib Stock and Cutting Ribs

Sorting and Bending in Test Ribs

Measuring, Cutting, and Rounding the Ribs

Thinning the Ends of the Ribs

Setting up for Steam Bending

Some Tips for Steam Bending the Ribs (text only)

Leveling the Canoe, Workspace Review, and Steaming Times

Steam Bending the Ribs

Re-Steaming, Replacing, and Fixing Cracked Ribs

Pegging the Ribs

Attaching stems and stringers

Setting the Stringers

Winding Lashing Spools and Setting up for Lashing

Lashing on the Stringers

Re-Checking the Rocker

Fixing Shaping Issues

Modifying or Replacing Ribs (if needed)

Adding Progressive End Rocker

Shaping the Stems

Tapering the Keel (if needed) and Permanently Attaching the Stems

Trimming and Fairing in the Stringers

Planning for the Mast Step Location

Tying the Stringers to the Stems

Fixing Wobbly Stringers

Finishing and oiling the frame

Pegging the Keel to the Stem

Reinforcing the Keel

Final Keel Symmetry Check

Shimming and Lashing the Keel to the Ribs

Adding Sheer Blocks

Cleaning up the Frame

Choosing and Marking the Canoe Seat Locations (single blade canoes only)

Canoe Seat Location Recommendations (text only)

Installing Seat Blocking (single blade canoes only)

Alternate Seat Blocking Method (single blade canoes only)

Special Instructions for attaching Extra Long Seat Blocking (use for blocking longer than 15 inches)

Oiling the Frame

Adding Tumblehome (optional)

Attaching the Mast Step

Skinning the canoe

Skinning Supplies

Skinning Process Overview / Draping the Fabric

Pinning the Stem

Cutting and Sewing the Stem for a CENTER STITCH

Cutting and Sewing the Stem for a SIDE STITCH (use for Stem Bands)

Shortening the Fabric

Stretching the Fabric and Pinning the Keel

Wetting and Stapling the Fabric

Clamping and Fastening the Rub Rails

Cutting and Sewing the Tops of the Stems

Final Rocker Check / Tuning

Trimming the Excess Fabric

Shrinking out Wrinkles (usually not neccesary)

Setting Up for Dyeing the Canoe (skip this video if using Earth Pigment)

Coloring the Fabric with Acid Dye (skip this video if using Earth Pigment)

Coloring the Fabric with Earth Pigment

Coating the Canoe with 2 Part Polyurethane

13 Common Coating Mistakes READ THIS FIRST!

Coating Supplies

Two cup 2 part polyurethane mixing method (watch both mixing videos)

Single cup 2 part polyurethane mixing method (seriously, watch both videos, they both have important details)

Batch Size and Working Time

Coating Process Overview and Workspace Setup

Initial Saturation Coat

Second Coat

Smoothing Imperfections

Final Coat and Finishing Touches

Additional Coats (must be done within 24 hrs)

Building Full Size Canoe Seats

Full Size Canoe Seating Overview

Choosing Wood and Mortising the Seat Rails

Cutting the Tenons and Gluing the Seat Together

Sanding and Finishing Canoe Seats

Making a Laminating Jig for Curved Canoe Seats

Laminating the Seat Rails

Modifying Curved Seats for Tall Backrests

Building a Tall Backrest

Stapling on the Seat Webbing

Installing Full Size Canoe Seats

Canoe Seating Overview

Setting up for Installing Canoe Seats Using a Drilling Jig (more precise)

Installing Canoe Seats Using a Jig (more precise)

Setting up for Installing Canoe Seats, Drilling Freehand (easier and faster)

Installing Canoe Seats, Drilling Freehand (easier and faster, disregard Hex Head bolts, we use truss head now)

Adding Spacer Blocks

Finishing Full-Size Canoes

Alternate Catamaran Method

Making Stem Bands and Rub Strips

Installing Stem Bands and Rub Strips

Pack Canoe Seating and Finishing Details

Removable Backrest Attachment Loop Introduction

Making the Attachment Point (you can omit the plastic plate shown here if not planning to catamaran)

Tying the Shock Cord

Combination Portage Yoke / Backrest

Pack Canoe Seating Options

Flotation Strategies

Sail building

Sail Introduction

Sail Supplies

Determining Mast Length

Cutting the Mast and Inserting the Tiller Extension

Attaching the Canoe Mast Step

Marking and Riveting the Mast Attachment

Sail Size and Shape Discussion

Planning the Sail

Planning the Sail UPDATE

Cutting and Marking the Sail

Setting up the Sewing Machine and Taping the Sail

Sewing the Sail

Making the Battens

Drilling the Battens and Tying on Control Lines

Modifying the Clam Cleats

Attaching the Clam Cleats to the Canoe

Rigging the Canoe

Sailing Your Canoe

Canoe and Kayak Sailing Safety

Canoe Catamaran System

Kayak/Canoe Catamaran Introduction

Comparing Canoe Catamaran Styles (See last video in this chapter for instructions to build the simple catamaran system)

Bungee Loop Style Catamaran Overview

Making the Attachment

Rigging the Bungee

Selecting Lumber for the Catamaran Boards

Making the Catamaran Boards

Finishing the Catamaran Boards

Alternate Canoe Catamaran System (usually used on full size canoes)

Using Your Canoe

Care and Feeding of Your Skin on Frame Boat (universal document for kayaks and canoes)

About this course

This rocks, john passacantando.

So far, it's brilliant. This isn't just a step by step guide, follow the bouncing ball and boat comes out at the end. These plans are taking me through an ...

So far, it's brilliant. This isn't just a step by step guide, follow the bouncing ball and boat comes out at the end. These plans are taking me through an educational journey and the end product will simply reflect what I've learned along the way. This is a wonderful approach to teaching, I'm loving this.

Jeff Dahlquist

This is an excellent course that Brian has created. He explains step by step with both text and videos how to build a canoe. You can work at your own pace go...

This is an excellent course that Brian has created. He explains step by step with both text and videos how to build a canoe. You can work at your own pace go back and view the videos as many time as you want. His system and techniques to build a canoe are well thought out and work. The canoe I built is a lot of fun to paddle. I would highly recommend this course to anyone who wants to build their own canoe.

It doesn't get any better than this

Matthew harding.

I've spent a good deal of time and research preparing for a skin-on-frame canoe build. I've thoroughly looked at every site I could find, examined the build...

I've spent a good deal of time and research preparing for a skin-on-frame canoe build. I've thoroughly looked at every site I could find, examined the building methods, construction approach, and watched countless youtube videos on the subject (much to my wife's chagrin). Being an engineer for an aerospace engineering company, my expectations for attention to detail are quite high. Brian's content is far and away superior to anything on the market. His building methods are proven and sound, adaptable to many canoe sizes and shapes, the videos are outstanding and very professional, and his license agreement is as fair as they come. I purchased his course and am partway through the build and I can say he has easily surpassed my expectations and the build so far has been a pleasure because I know exactly what to do, what to expect, and what mistakes to avoid. If you are considering building a skin-on-frame canoe, you've come to the right place, for this price you are getting an amazing deal and an excellent product.

Great course!

Kevin pauba.

Although I don't plan on building a SOF canoe for another few years, this was too good of a deal to pass up. I don't think this construction method will bec...

Although I don't plan on building a SOF canoe for another few years, this was too good of a deal to pass up. I don't think this construction method will become obsolete anytime soon either. A very professional how-to course. Brian is an excellent presenter with the know-how to make the subject matter understandable and doable by anyone. I wished I had discovered this when my kids were younger as building a set of canoes together would have been a great shared experience.

Great nesting canoes

I built a pair of nesting canoes. The course provided all the info needed for someone who hasn't ever done woodworking. The canoes are well balanced and work...

I built a pair of nesting canoes. The course provided all the info needed for someone who hasn't ever done woodworking. The canoes are well balanced and worked great on a 15 mile river trip. I'm looking forward to taking it back out now that I have a greenland paddle.

Jane Stoykov

every single step was an adventure. Every single thing was new to me but I've done all the steps instructed and safe. A safe way to to get from nothing to fu...

every single step was an adventure. Every single thing was new to me but I've done all the steps instructed and safe. A safe way to to get from nothing to full satisfaction.

Excellent Course

Shawn calhoun.

I definitely feel much more confident after watching this course, a lot of great material and little bits of critical information. Will definitely be referri...

I definitely feel much more confident after watching this course, a lot of great material and little bits of critical information. Will definitely be referring back to it as the build progresses!

Excellent instruction.

Royce kessler.

Good pace, with sufficient information to learn the process without being too detailed.

William Glendinning

Good overview and sequence of steps to take to due build. Enjoy ablitity to review certain sections repeatable times to understand key points and values....

Good overview and sequence of steps to take to due build. Enjoy ablitity to review certain sections repeatable times to understand key points and values. Worth the $$$ spent to insure one's ablitity to build said canoe.

Building two pack canoes

Martin hill.

This has been a thoroughly enjoyable and absorbing project to do. The plans and videos are really detailed and well produced.. At every stage Brian shares hi...

This has been a thoroughly enjoyable and absorbing project to do. The plans and videos are really detailed and well produced.. At every stage Brian shares his wealth of experience, always clear, always helpful. On a couple of occasions I checked things out with Brian and he was very quick to email a response. I made two pack canoes and because of the pandemic restrictions in the UK have only given them a brief outing but they feel great. The course is excellent, the canoes look and feel great.

Because the accompanying video courses call out imperial measurements, and we are constantly making updates to both the plans and videos, we’ve found that metric plans leave a lot of room for potential confusion or error. For builders outside the US, we recommend purchasing a metric to imperial tape measure to make your build easier.

Because this is a building system not a plan for a specific boat, there are no standalone plans.

In addition to the cost of the course and plans, average materials cost for a canoe runs around $450. Materials costs vary based on the size boat you are building, local availability and shipping costs, so that could be as low as $300 for a small pack canoe or $700 for a tandem canoe.

You can login and view the course on any device. Enrolling in a course gives you lifetime access to the course material, including any updates or additions we make to the material in the future. In fact, that’s one of the main reasons we created these video courses instead of writing a book, because our designs and techniques are constantly evolving and we want you to always have access to the best and most up-to-date information.

You can download individual videos to your device, but be aware that file sizes can be quite large.

Add-Ons and Related Courses

Canoe Oars and Outrigger

Pedal Drive System for Skin on Frame Canoes

• Deals and sales

Live updates

The 70+ Best Deals From Amazon's Big Spring Sale (And Across the Internet) This Week

Amazon’s Big Spring Sale kicked off yesterday and lasts through Monday, March 25.

The introduction of yet another Amazon-manufactured sale event sees the online retail giant promising savings on cleaning gear, outdoor essentials, electronics, clothing, and home goods.

But does the sale live up to the hype? We’ve assessed the deals on offer (so far). Most didn’t make the grade, so we dug in to find those that are truly worth the spend.

Below, we’ve rounded up the best deals from Amazon and other retailers offering competing sales, including REI, to find you only the best spring deals on our expert-approved picks.

The best deals on:

Deal spotlight: garmin forerunner 255s gps running watch, deal spotlight: paige cindy jeans, deal spotlight: simple modern trek tumbler (40 ounce), lawn and garden, outdoor, camping, and hiking, kitchen and appliance, tech, laptops, and tv, spring clothing and shoes, home and furniture.

Garmin Forerunner 255S GPS Running Watch — Runner-Up Amazon deal price: $250 ; street price: $350

What we like: One of our runner-up picks for the best GPS running watch. One of the most feature-packed, top-performing models we’ve tested. Accurate distance and route tracking. Solid heart-rate monitoring. Multiband GPS.

Other things to know: Decent battery life (about 14 days), but much shorter than that of our top pick. No touchscreen. Not quite as accurate at tracking road runs as our top pick. One-year warranty. Music-streaming version is also on sale for $50 more.

Read our review of the best GPS running watches .

Paige Cindy Jeans — Top Pick Paige deal price: $164 ; street price: $219

What we like: Our decadently soft and stretchy women's jeans pick. Straight-leg, high-rise style, fitted through the waist and hips. Body-conscious yet totally lounge-able. Testers of different sizes and shapes found these jeans flattering and wildly comfortable.

Other things to know: Stretchier denim tends to (you guessed it) stretch out over time. 28-inch inseam may be too short for some. Destroyed hem isn't for everyone. Run slightly large; we recommend sizing down if between sizes. Use code PAIGEFAMILY2024. Doesn't quite compare to deals we saw over Black Friday, but still a good value.

Read our review of the best women's jeans .

Simple Modern Trek Tumbler (40 ounce) — Staff Favorite Amazon deal price: $24 ; street price: $30

What we like: Our favorite high-quality, budget-friendly Stanley tumbler dupe. Performed just as well as its costlier competitors. Kept ice frozen for over 24 hours and stopping leaks with its screw-top lid. Available in over 20 colors and patterns, more than the competition offers.

Other things to know: Most Trek tumblers are dishwasher-safe, though some of the patterned options are hand-wash-only to preserve their design. On sale in a few multi-color options.

Read our review of the best Stanley dupes .

Roborock Q5+ Robot Vacuum — Our Pick Roborock deal price: $370 ; street price: $550

What we like: Our self-emptying robot vacuum pick. Better battery life, app navigation, mapping, and voice command response to Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant than other bots. Large bin. Excels at cleaning hard floors and low- to medium-pile carpets.

Other things to know: Comes with a charging station that empties debris into a disposable bag. Like nearly all bots we tested, it struggles with debris near thresholds and baseboards. A new low price, but not by much. Use coupon code ROBOROCKS.

Read our review of the best robot vacuums .

Roborock Q5 Robot Vacuum — Our Pick Roborock deal price: $210 ; street price: $430

What we like: Our pick for the best robot vacuum. Offers better mapping, easier app navigation, a longer battery life, and more reliable voice commands through Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant than other models we tested. Excels on low and medium-pile carpet and hard floors.

Other things to know: Doesn't come with a self-emptying charging station like the "plus" model. Like almost all bots we tested, struggles with debris near thresholds and baseboards. One-year warranty, but few replacement parts. New low price, but not by much. Use coupon code ROBOROCKS.

Ego ST1511T Power+ 15″ Powerload String Trimmer — Top Pick Lowe’s deal price: $180 ; street price: $220 Amazon deal price: $180 ; street price: $220

What we like: Our top pick for the best string trimmer. Outperformed the other brands’ trimmers in run time and power in testing. Telescoping shaft and handle are easy to adjust and make the tool comfortable to use.

Other things to know: The charger can deliver a full battery in about 40 minutes.

Read our review of the best string trimmers .

Eley 5/8-inch Polyurethane Garden Hose (50 Feet) — Upgrade Pick Eley deal price: $103 ; street price: $122

What we like: Our upgrade garden hose pick. Much lighter, easier to loop, more durable, and resists folding or kinking compared to other options. Large brass fittings at the ends are easy to tighten by hand or wrench. Absolutely hosetastic—the best we’ve ever tested.

Other things to know: Pricey—even when on sale—but if you want a hose that's better in every way and are willing to pay for it, this is the one to get. 10-year warranty. Deal price is for the 50-foot length.

Read our review of the best garden hose and hose reel .

Govee Outdoor String Lights (96 Feet) — Another Good Option Amazon deal price: $65 ; street price: $90

What we like: Another good string light in our guide to the best smart outdoor lighting. Affordably priced and available in a 48-foot set and a 96-foot set. They provide far more special-effects options than our sting light pick.

Other things to know: Very overwhelming app. The strands have fewer bulbs per foot than our string-lights pick, and they don’t feel as sturdy. Frosted bulbs. Deal is for the 96-foot length; be sure to clip the on-page coupon.

Read our review of the best smart outdoor lighting for backyards pathways and more .

Ego LM2135SP Power+ 21″ Select Cut Lawn Mower with extra battery — Runner-Up Lowe’s deal price: $600 with store pickup ; street price: $950 Amazon deal price: $600 ; street price: $950

What we like: Our runner-up pick for the best lawn mower, bundled with an extra Ego battery. Battery-powered self-propelled mower can run for about an hour on a single battery charge. No need for gas, oil checks, or fuel storage, and no noxious emissions. Considerably quieter than gas mowers.

Other things to know: First deal we’ve seen since Black Friday. Minimal maintenance compared with gas models. A little less powerful and shorter run time than our top pick, but additional battery easily makes up for primary battery’s capacity. Extra Ego BA2800T battery has 56-volt, 5 Ah, 280 Wh capacity, usually between $200 and $300 when purchased separately.

Read our review of the best lawn mower .

Thermacell EX90 Mosquito Repellent — Also Great Deal price: $40 with single-use promo code MEMBER24, REI membership required ; street price: $50

What we like: Our more rugged spatial mosquito repellent pick for camping or other outdoor activities. Odorlessly kept a bedroom-size area mosquito-free. Same nine-hour battery life and repellent qualities as our top pick with a more compact design, rubbery grip areas on the sides, a lanyard and carabiner, and a locking lid.

Other things to know: Wind can drastically affect performance. Works only against mosquitos. Takes about 15 minutes to protect an area. On sale for REI members with single-use promo code MEMBER24.

Read our review of the best mosquito-control gear for your patio or yard .

The North Face Wawona 6 Tent (2023) — Upgrade Pick REI deal price: $350 ; street price: $500

What we like: Our upgrade pick camping tent. Dome-style with nearly vertical walls, high ceilings, and a single mudroom-sized vestibule. Straightforward to pitch, and made with sturdy, light materials.

Other things to know: Expensive, but you get value for your money. The Wawona 6’s footprint, or protective groundsheet, is sold separately. We recommend setting up with two people, but one person can manage in about 15 minutes. Limited lifetime warranty. Available in green/gray or orange/tan. Deal ends March 25.

Read our review of the best camping tents .

Cotopaxi Allpa 35L Carry-On Travel Backpack — Our Pick Deal price: $160 with single-use promo code MEMBER24, REI membership required ; street price: $200

What we like: Our pick for the best small carry-on travel backpack for most situations. Easy-to-pack clamshell design and highly adjustable straps. Has handles on all four sides. Protected by a full lifetime warranty and has the build quality to back that up. Made with 1,680-denier ballistic nylon and includes a rain fly.

Other things to know: Minimal amount of administrative organization. We’d love to see a permanent all-nylon alternative to the TPU-lined front panel, which can flake over time. On sale for REI members with single-use promo code MEMBER24.

Read our review of the best carry-on travel backpacks .

Peak Design Travel Backpack 45L — Also Great Deal price: $240 with single-use promo code MEMBER24, REI membership required ; street price: $300

What we like: Our pick for the best large carry-on travel backpack. Features easy accessibility, clever tuck-away straps, and an elegant way of expanding and contracting. It’s adjustable and customizable, and if you spring for the extra cubes and organizers, it’s an almost-perfect system for photographers and gearheads.

Other things to know: Comes with a lifetime warranty. Committing to the entire system of packing and camera cubes adds extra cost to an already expensive bag. On sale for REI members with single-use promo code MEMBER24. Not the absolute best sale we’ve seen.

NiteRider Swift 300 Bike Light — Budget Pick Deal price: $24 with single-use promo code MEMBER24, REI membership required ; street price: $30

What we like: Our headlight budget pick for the best commuter bike light is small and sturdy, with a swiveling strap and decent side visibility. Can emit 300 lumens for up to two hours and flash for 12. Adjusts to fit most sizes and shapes of handlebars.

Other things to know: Not suited to longer or darker routes. Lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects, one-year warranty on its rechargeable battery cells. Already affordable but rarely sees discounts. On sale for REI members with single-use promo code MEMBER24.

Read our review of the best commuter bike lights .

Yeti Tundra Haul Hard Cooler — Our Pick Deal price: $340 with single-use promo code MEMBER24, REI membership required ; street price: $425

What we like: Our pick for the best cooler with wheels. Easy to haul across long distances. Durable wheels. Thick-gauge welded aluminum handle doesn’t strain or bend. Feels similar to wheeling around high-end luggage.

Other things to know: No internal divider. Contents may shuffle a bit when it’s tipped at an angle. Available in five colors. On sale for REI members with single-use promo code MEMBER24.

Read our review of the best coolers .

Blundstone Original 500 Series Boot — Staff Favorite Deal price: $168 with single-use promo code MEMBER24, REI membership required ; street price: $210

What we like: A casual leather boot loved by Wirecutter staff and many others around the world. Pull-on, ankle-high, with an elastic panel. Comfortable, durable rubber sole. Uppers made of extra-thick leather. Ergonomically engineered to reduce fatigue. Can last for years with daily wear.

Other things to know: Exceptionally light for a pair of boots, about 14 ounces per pair. Unisex. Best price and size availability is for the stout brown color. On sale for REI members with single-use promo code MEMBER24.

Read our ode to the Blundstone boots .

Panel Sound USAPA Approved Fiberglass Pickleball Paddles — Staff Favorite Deal price: $20 in select colors ; street price: $35

What we like: A staff-favorite pickleball paddle set. Lightweight and comfortable to hold. Grippy handles and rubbery faces absorb some of the ball’s velocity. Good for beginners.

Other things to know: Set includes two paddles, four indoor balls, a carrying case, and two cooling towels. Deal is for the red paddle set.

Read our review of the best pickleball equipment for playing at home .

Thermos Funtainer Food Jar (10 ounce, 2-pack) — Also Great Amazon deal price: $16 ; street price: $22

What we like: A two-pack of our kids pick for best food thermos. Durable and easy for small hands to open. Never leaked in our tests, and the lid never cracked during drop tests.

Other things to know: 10-ounce container is best for kids (or for a small adult lunch). Doesn't retain heat for as long as our top pick (130 °F after 6 hours, vs 144 °F for our top pick). Best suited for keeping foods hot, not great for keeping foods cold.

Read our review of the best food thermos .

Tramontina Gourmet Tri-Ply Clad 12-Inch Fry Pan — Runner-Up Amazon deal price: $38 ; street price: $50

What we like: Our runner-up pick for the best skillet. Allows moisture to evaporate quickly, browns chicken skin as well as pans costing almost twice the price, and is a comfortable weight with a rounded, ergonomically shaped stick handle. Cooked-on food released easily in our tests.

Other things to know: Has slightly steeper sides than our top pick. Developed some discoloration on the surface and underside that was almost impossible to clean.

Read our review of the best skillet .

Cuisinart Frozen Yogurt-Ice Cream & Sorbet Maker (ICE-21) — Top Pick Amazon deal price: $56 ; street price: $60

What we like: Our top ice cream maker pick. Made some of the smoothest and most delicious ice cream in our tests. More affordable than a compressor model. Churns ice cream faster than the competition.

Other things to know: Bowl insert must be pre-frozen overnight, which requires planning. Extra freezer bowls, required to make multiple batches in a row, sold separately.

Read our review of the best ice cream maker .

Atlas Coffee Club 2-Bag Subscription — Gift Pick Atlas Coffee Club deal price: $14 ; street price: $28

What we like: A coffee subscription service we recommend in multiple gift guides. Atlas Coffee Club delivers satisfying coffee at a low price, with plenty of customization, and you always have something new to try. Sources beans from countries all over the world. Each bag of coffee includes a postcard with fun facts about the country’s coffee industry.

Other things to know: The subscription is highly customizable. New subscribers can use code WCMARCH50 for 50% off their first two-bag subscription. Matches the best previous pricing we've posted.

Read our review of the best gifts for coffee lovers .

Hamilton Beach Temp Tracker 6 Quart Slow Cooker — Also Great Deal price: $50 for Costco members ; street price: $70

What we like: Our slow cooker pick for longer cook times. Similar to our top pick but offers more precise temperature control. 24-hour timer instead of 14 hours. More built-in slots for a probe thermometer. Settings include high, medium, low, and warm.

Other things to know: Ran a little hotter than our top pick in our tests, and we’re not convinced that everyone needs the extras. Costco membership required. Price includes shipping.

Read our review of the best slow cooker .

Cuisinart CPT-122 2-Slice Compact Plastic Toaster — Top Pick Deal price: $24 ; street price: $30

What we like: Our longtime top pick for the best two-slot toaster. Produced the most evenly browned bread in our testing. Wide range of settings and easy-to-use controls. Wide slots for thick-cut bagels.

Other things to know: Three-year warranty. Available in white. Plastic body and levers don’t look quite as nice as a metal finish. Heating-element wires of modern toasters are subject to corrosion over time.

Read our review of the best toaster .

Gracula Garlic Crusher — Gift Pick Deal price: $15 ; street price: $25

What we like: A Dracula-inspired kitchen gadget recommended in multiple Wirecutter gift guides. Any cooking-inclined classic-horror fan, kid, or year-round Halloween celebrant would “vant” this as a gift. Plop a few cloves into the base (his cape), pop on the top (his head), and twist at the neck to mince.

Other things to know: Make sure to remove chopped garlic quickly—vampires can’t tolerate garlic for long (plus, it’s a nightmare to clean when dried).

Read our review of the best Valentine’s Day gifts under $25 .

YouCopia StoraLid Lid Organizer (Large) — Staff Favorite Deal price: $16 ; street price: $20

What we like: A staff-favorite lid organizer we like for keeping things tidy in the cabinet. Keeps food-storage container lids organized and easily accessible with minimal human effort. Adjustable tabbed dividers for separating lid sizes.

Other things to know: Only as useful as your willingness to use it and organize. Needs large empty space to fit into a cabinet. Deal for the large size, recurring sale price.

Read our review of how this $20 lid organizer has tamed the chaos inside one writer’s kitchen cabinets .

Philips GoZero Sparkling Water Maker — Budget Pick Deal price: $54 ; street price: $64

What we like: Our budget soda maker pick has a sleek and attractive no-frills look. Makes good-tasting seltzer with lively bubbles. Surprisingly good quality for the price.

Other things to know: Assembly can be a pain. CO 2 cylinder is sold separately for around $30. If you have empty cylinders, you can exchange them for a discount.

Read our review of the best soda maker .

YouCopia Storemore Expandable Adjustable Pan and Lid Rack — Our Pick Deal price: $18 ; street price: $30

What we like: A variant of our adjustable bakeware rack pick. We recommend the bakeware rack in several of our articles on kitchen organization; this pan-and-lid rack has a similar design but extends up to 22 inches, and the wire dividers are shaped to account for lid handles. Easy way to organize a variety of kitchen items.

Other things to know: Comes with 10 adjustable dividers. At 13 inches wide without expanding, it’s not as compact as our recommended bakeware rack. Additional and replacement dividers are sold separately by the merchant.

Read our review of the best small-kitchen ideas to create more space .

OXO Brew 8-Cup Coffee Maker — Another Good Option Deal price: $140 ; street price: $180

What we like: A speedy drip coffee maker we like that can make pour-over-quality single servings in addition to full pots. Small footprint and simple design. Brews coffee with well-rounded flavor. Can brew directly into the thermal carafe or a mug.

Other things to know: Lacks auto-brew function, clock, and timer.

Read our review of the best drip coffee maker .

Anker Soundcore Space A40 Earbuds — Top Pick Amazon deal price: $50 ; street price: $80

What we like: Our top pick for best wireless Bluetooth earbuds. Solid sound quality, great battery life, and active noise cancellation. Each earbud can be used independently. Dual-device connectivity. Should fit most ears comfortably.

Other things to know: Does not support voice-activated assistants like Alexa and Siri. IPX4 water-resistance. 18-month warranty. Limited touch controls. This deal lacks the $5 gift card we typically see bundled with these earbuds.

Read our review of the best wireless Bluetooth earbuds .

Nebula Mars 3 Air Portable Mini Projector — Top Pick Amazon deal price: $450 ; street price: $600

What we like: Our top pick for the best portable mini projector. 1080p projector that offers good image brightness and contrast with above-average sound and easy setup. Runs off an internal battery for true portability (up to 3.5 hours of runtime in our tests). Uses the Google TV streaming platform, which is our favorite.

Other things to know: Main downsides include the lack of a USB-C port and the awkwardly designed underside, which limits the tripods and mounts it can attach to. Clip the on-page coupon to get the deal.

Read our review of the best portable mini projector .

Apple MacBook Air (M1, 2020, 8 GB RAM, 256 GB SSD) — Budget Pick (For Now) Walmart deal price: $700 ; street price: $750

What we like: Our soon-to-be-replaced budget pick from our guide to the best MacBooks. Still enough memory and storage for most day-to-day work. Approximately 14-hour battery life. Lightweight with solid construction, a comfortable keyboard, and industry-leading customer support. M1 processor still good enough for everyday tasks, non-power users.

Other things to know: M3 processor is finally out and the M1 is starting to show its age after three years. Still a worthwhile everyday laptop, but we will likely see better deals in the future as M3 adoption becomes more widespread. Comes with 8 GB RAM, 256 GB SSD, 13.3-inch Retina display, one 3.5mm jack, and two Thunderbolt 3 ports. Available in select finishes. $30 below the previous lowest price.

Read our review of the best MacBooks .

Vantrue N4 Dash Cam — Top Pick Vantrue deal price: $175 ; street price: $220

What we like: Our top pick for best dash cam. Crisp, super-high-resolution footage day and night. Front-facing, interior, and rear-facing cameras. 24-hour parked-car monitoring. Compact and relatively unobtrusive. Includes 12-volt car charger.

Other things to know: Performance suffers in temperatures below 14 degrees Fahrenheit. Lacks app connectivity to remotely view and download video. Use code WIREVAN4 for deal from Vantrue. Matches low.

Read our review of the best dash cam .

Apple AirTag Bluetooth Tracker — Our Pick Deal price: $24 ; street price: $29

What we like: Our pick for the best Bluetooth tracker for iOS users leverages Apple’s huge network of devices to find lost goods. Impressively accurate. Replaceable coin battery. If you lose an AirTag (or an item containing or attached to one), you can use the Find My app to see its location or ask Siri to trigger an audible alert.

Other things to know: Doesn’t have any way to ring your phone. No built-in method of attaching to anything. Solid deal for an individual tracker but sales for sets of four typically offer a better price per tracker.

Read our review of the best Bluetooth tracker .

Google Pixel 8 (128 GB, Unlocked) — Top Pick Deal price: $500 ; street price: $620

What we like: Our top pick for the best Android smartphone offers the best version of Android with guaranteed security updates through fall 2030. Has one of the best smartphone cameras we’ve tested. Excellent build quality. Crisp 6.2-inch OLED display and solid wrap-around aluminum frame.

Other things to know: More expensive than previous models. Videos can often look a little grainy but have good color reproduction. Deal is for an unlocked phone with 128 GB of internal storage.

Read our review of the best Android phones .

Soundcore Space One Noise-Cancelling Headphones — Budget Pick Deal price: $80 ; street price: $100

What we like: Our budget pick for the best over-ear noise-cancelling headphones offer impressive noise cancellation and good sound for less than $100. Comfortable and lightweight. 40-hour battery life with ANC on. Offers dual-device connectivity, hear-through mode, and quick-charge feature.

Other things to know: The three noise-reducing microphones can make voices sound compressed and somewhat distant to callers. Sound is customizable via the Soundcore app.

Read our review of the best noise-cancelling headphones .

Garmin Forerunner 255S GPS Running Watch — Runner-Up Deal price: $250 ; street price: $350

Other things to know: Decent battery life (about 14 days), but much shorter than that of our top pick. No touchscreen. Not quite as accurate at tracking road runs as our top pick. One-year warranty.

Garmin Forerunner 255S Music GPS Running Watch — Runner-Up Deal price: $300 ; street price: $380

What we like: Our runner-up pick for the best GPS running watch if listening to music is important for your workouts. Still one of the most feature-packed, top-performing GPS running watches we’ve tested. Includes music streaming and storage capabilities.

Other things to know: Accurate distance and route tracking. Solid heart-rate monitoring. Multiband GPS. Decent battery life, about 14 days. Lacks touchscreen. Much shorter battery life than our top pick. In tracking road runs, it’s not quite as accurate as our top pick. One-year warranty.

Soundcore Motion 300 Bluetooth Speaker — Runner-Up Deal price: $64 ; street price: $80

What we like: Our runner-up pick for the best portable Bluetooth speaker. Good sound quality comparable to that of our top pick but with an emphasis on instruments over vocals. Offers IPX7 waterproofing and had 12 hours of battery life during our tests. USB-C charging.

Other things to know: Larger than our top pick but slimmer. Not as ruggedly built as our top pick. Bluetooth range is shorter than we’d like (60 feet during tests), which is adequate but not impressive these days.

Read our review of the best portable Bluetooth speaker .

Cricut Explore 3 Electronic Cutting Machine — Top Pick Deal price: $250 ; street price: $300

What we like: The top pick in our guide to the best electronic cutting machines from Cricut and Silhouette. Intuitive and easy-to-use software is great for beginners. Superior selection of images and ready-to-make projects.

Other things to know: Faster than other cutting machines but significantly louder. Doesn’t come with a cutting mat and can only cut materials that are 6 inches or longer. Only the second deal we’ve posted on the Explore 3 so far.

Read our review of the best electronic cutting machines .

Mobvoi TicWatch Pro 5 Smartwatch — Our Pick Deal price: $262 ; street price: $350

What we like: Our pick for a long-lasting Android smartwatch. Compact, comfortable design. Runs nearly seven days between recharges. Low-power mode maintains basic functionality for weeks. Dual-layer display. Fast, powerful Snapdragon W5+ Gen 1 processor.

Other things to know: Uses an older version of Wear OS. Phone app is clunky. Amazon Alexa is the only voice-assistant option.

Read our review of the best smartwatch for Android phones .

Brother P-Touch Cube Label Maker — Budget Pick Deal price: $45 ; street price: $60

What we like: Our budget pick for the best label maker. Easy to use. Good for occasional label making. Produces the same high-quality labels and uses the same great design suite as our top pick.

Other things to know: A stripped-down version of our top pick. Lacks automatic cutter and built-in rechargeable battery. Recurring deal price, but rarely drops lower.

Read our review of the best label makers .

Aura Carver Mat Digital Photo Frame — Pick Variant Deal price: $143 ; street price: $180

What we like: A variant of our top digital photo frame pick. Offers easy setup, vivid display, pleasing design, and near-zero pillarboxing. Loading photos and videos remotely is a breeze. Features two frame layers that give the look of a mat picture frame.

Other things to know: The 16:10 aspect ratio isn’t our preferred 4:3. Free Aura app works with iOS and Android phones. Available in black or clay color with white mat.

Read our review of the best digital photo frame .

Smartish Gripmunk with MagSafe for iPhone 15 Case — Our Pick Amazon deal price: $15 ; street price: $20

What we like: Our pick for the best basic phone case for the iPhone 15. A one-piece case made of soft, rubber-like plastic (TPU, or thermoplastic polyurethane), and provides more than adequate coverage and protection. Easy to install but won't stretch out. Affordable but doesn’t feel cheap.

Other things to know: Has been our pick for the best basic iPhone case for years now and continues to maintain that spot, but is a plain case with not much going on. Clip the on-page coupon, select colors on sale. The iPhone 15 Plus, Pro, and Pro Max versions are also on sale in a few colors.

Read our review of the best iPhone cases .

A.L.C. Renzo Pleated Midi Dress — Our Pick Bloomingdale's deal price: $446 ; street price: $595

What we like: Our pick for the ultimate little black cocktail dress. Delicate pleats, a high neck, and exposed shoulders make this a refined choice for an evening out. Breathable polyester felt softer and more luxurious than many silk dresses we tested.

Other things to know: The priciest dress we recommend, but worth the investment. Designed to hit midcalf, but may hit closer to ankle level if under 5-foot-5. Sold in sizes 00 to 14.

Read our review of the best little black dresses .

Sungait Vintage Round Sunglasses (Polarized Lenses, 2-Pack) — Our Pick Amazon deal price: $15 ; street price: $18

What we like: Our cheap round sunglasses pick. Also recommended in gift guides and outdoor guides. Comfortable and sturdy. Complements a variety of face shapes. Keyhole nose bridge. Mini screwdriver provided with purchase. Logo-free and unisex.

Other things to know: Lifetime warranty (rare at this price). Some Sungait pairs sold on Amazon don't have polarized lenses, double-check before buying. Deal is for a 2-pack in select frame colors. Clip on-page coupon to get deal for some colors.

Read our review of the best cheap sunglasses .

Nike Blazer Mid '77 Vintage Sneakers (Men's) — Staff Favorite Nike deal price: $72 ; street price: $105

What we like: A staff favorite alternative to Nike Air Force 1s. Versatile mid-height sneakers with a vintage feel. Sleek, leather upper with suede details. Solid rubber sole provides strong foot support and traction.

Other things to know: Free Nike membership required to use coupon code SPRING and for free shipping. Several colors are on sale, but the tan option offers a wide range of sizes for a neutral color.

Read our review of the Nike sneakers our experts prefer over Air Force Ones .

Nike Air Force 1 '07 Low (Women's) — Our Pick Dick's Sporting Goods deal price: $59 ; street price: $100

What we like: The crisp upper. The bright white. The striking lines. Our streetwear and sneakerhead staple pick in our guide to the best white sneakers. Super comfortable.

Other things to know: Style might seem bulky if you prefer slim shoes. Deal price is for the bronze brown trim. Ships free with Dick's ScoreCard membership (free to join).

Read our review of the best white sneakers .

Universal Standard Next-to-Naked Legging — Our Pick Universal Standard deal price: $15 with code WIRECUTTER, new customers only, limit one per customer ; street price: $96

What we like: Our lightweight leggings pick for layering (or to replace your everyday pants). Soft, stretchy, and comfortable enough to wear all day. Thinner than most pairs we tried. Waistband didn’t pinch and stayed put for all of our testers. Good for lounging about or even working out.

Other things to know: Formerly known as the Core Legging. Sizing conversions don’t follow standard conventions—please refer to on-page chart to ensure you get the correct size. Use code WIRECUTTER (for new customers only). On sale in all sizes, colors, and styles. Limit one per customer.

Read our review of the best leggings .

Crocs Dylan Clog — Gift Pick Amazon deal price: $40 ; street price: $55

What we like: A more sophisticated pair of Crocs we recommend in several of our gift guides. Belies the brand's ugly reputation. Textured to look like full-grain leather. Clean profile with a notably unperforated toe box.

Other things to know: Easy to wash thanks to proprietary resin construction. On sale in select colors in women's and men's sizes.

Read our review of the best gifts for boyfriends (that are great for anyone) .

Tocess Big Claw Clips — Our Pick Deal price: $7 ; street price: $10

What we like: Our pick that’s great for wrangling curly and unruly hair. Stays put even during sleep. Extremely durable and sturdy.

Other things to know: Includes eight clips in multiple colors and two styles. Clips are about 4 inches long and open to 3.54 inches. Made from soft matte plastic.

Read our review of our favorite hair ties, scrunchies, bows, and clips .

Bellroy Tokyo Tote Second Edition — Our Pick Amazon deal price: $89 ; street price: $129

What we like: Our pick for a durable, water-repellent polyester laptop tote bag. Tough yet polished. Transitions perfectly from the coffee shop to the conference room. Thoughtfully designed, with features like internal popout bottle pockets and leakproof zippers.

Other things to know: Fabric shell is abrasive and may make some sweaters and blouses pill. The weave also attracts pet hair like a magnet. Available in black, bronze, and ranger green. Lowest price we've seen so far.

Read our review of the best laptop tote bags .

Bonobos Soft Everyday Tee (add two) — Our Pick Deal price: $50 when you add two to cart ; street price: $70

What we like: Our boxier, more relaxed white T-shirt pick. Extremely soft with some stretch and sturdily constructed. Especially loved by our plus-size testers for quality, fit, and comfort. 100% cotton.

Other things to know: Generous fit may not work for people with smaller frames. Available in a variety of colors and sizes. Choose between crew neck or V-neck and slim or standard cut. Add two to your cart to get the deal price.

Read our review of the best men’s white T-shirts .

What we like: A casual leather boot loved by Wirecutter staff and many others around the world. Pull-on, ankle-high, with an elastic panel. Comfortable, durable rubber sole. Uppers made of extra-thick leather. Ergonomically engineered to reduce fatigue. They can last for years with daily wear.

Etsfmoa Unisex Beanie with Light — Gift Pick Deal price: $13 ; street price: $15

What we like: A combination beanie and headlamp recommended in multiple Wirecutter gift guides. A bright, rechargeable light embedded in a soft, warm hat. Light charges in about two hours via USB port and has three brightness settings. Beanie comes in 24 different colors and patterns.

Other things to know: Great for walking the dog after dark or staying hands-free during house projects (also makes a good Father’s Day gift). The black and gray hats, the typical colors we see on sale, are both down to $13.

Read our review of the best gifts under $25 .

Idegg No Show Socks (Unisex, Six Pairs) — Our Pick Deal price: $12 ; street price: $15

What we like: Our thin and inexpensive no-show socks pick. Made from a lightweight and breathable cotton blend. Terrific value, especially when on sale. Great for wearing with snug-fitting shoes. Won’t slip or bunch.

Other things to know: Thin material doesn’t provide much padding or support. Not as soft and smooth as our other no-show sock picks. Deal is for a medium six-pack combination of black, gray, and whites (add $1 for large).

Read our review of the best no-show socks .

Apotheke Charcoal Candle — Our Pick Bloomingdale's deal price: $33 ; street price: $44

What we like: Our elegant, monochromatic pick for a warm and woodsy scented candle. Notes of charred sandalwood and cedar after a heavy rain. Fragrant but not heavy or overpowering. Sleek matte-black vessel is as stylish as it is adept at hiding soot streaks, fingerprints, and other smudges.

Other things to know: About 70-hour burn time. We wish it came with a lid or dust cover. Jar is reusable, but the company name is printed on the glass, so it’s impossible to remove. Price reflects in-cart. We've seen better deals for the 3-wick size, but this is a solid deal for this size.

Read our review of our favorite scented candles .

Dyson Supersonic Hair Dryer (Refurbished) — Upgrade Pick Walmart deal price: $220 ; street price: $300

What we like: Our longtime upgrade hair dryer pick. Unique design makes for an extraordinarily pleasant user experience. No vibration whatsoever. Simple-to-switch magnetic attachments make styling a breeze. Consistently our favorite hair dryer to use since we first tested it in 2016.

Other things to know: Pricey, and doesn’t make your hair look any different than cheaper options. Available in the select finishes. Manufacturer refurbished. One-year Dyson warranty and 30-day returns.

Read our review of the best hair dryer .

Threshold White Waffle Weave Shower Curtain — Our Pick Target deal price: $20 ; street price: $25

What we like: Our longtime pick for the best classic waffle-weave shower curtain. Simple, timeless, and durable. Easy to clean. Neutral design will complement just about any bathroom.

Other things to know: Available in white or gray. Select store pickup or make a combined order of $35 or more to avoid shipping fees. RedCard holders get free shipping and save an extra 5%.

Read our review of the best shower curtains .

GoYouth 2 in 1 Under Desk Electric Treadmill — Also Great Amazon deal price: $240 ; street price: $340

What we like: Our better-warranty under-desk treadmill pick. Easy to set up. Offers a smooth ride, a deck screen with Bluetooth speaker, and a belt size mirroring that of our top pick. Comes with a one-year warranty, which is substantially better than tour top pick's 90-day warranty.

Other things to know: Walking pad tops out at 3.7 mph. Can only support up to 220 pounds. In our testing, its belt started to fray after just a few weeks of use—damage that isn’t covered by the warranty. The red and blue colors are down to $240 with the clipped on-page coupon.

Read our review of the best under-desk treadmills .

Glocusent LED Neck Reading Light — Top Pick Amazon deal price: $17 ; street price: $22

What we like: Our wearable reading light pick is bright and easy to use, with adjustable arms that angle the light at the page just how we wanted. It never felt heavy or uncomfortable on our necks during testing.

Other things to know: Fewer brightness and temperature settings than our clip-on pick, but removes the need to adjust a traditional clip-on reading light. Deal available with clipped on-page coupon for the gray and purple colors.

Read our review of the best reading light .

Lutron Caséta Wireless In-Wall Smart Dimmer Switch (2-Count Kit) — Another Good Option Amazon deal price: $136 ; street price: $170

What we like: A good smart light dimmer switch if you don’t have great Wi-Fi. Easy-to-use keypad for dimming and powering lights manually. Easy to install. Works reliably with many smart-home devices. A pick when we started this guide, and we will continue to sing its praises.

Other things to know: Includes two switches, required Lutron Caséta Smart Bridge, and two wireless remotes. Uses ClearConnect wireless. Neutral wire required (which may be an issue in homes with old wiring).

Read our review of the best in-wall smart light switch and dimmer .

Sonos Move Speaker (First Gen) — Our Pick Costco deal price: $280 ; street price: $400

What we like: Our pick for a portable smart speaker for your outdoor space. High-quality and wireless. Sounds good. All the benefits of the Sonos system. Supports Airplay 2, Amazon Alexa, and Google Assistant. IP56-rated water resistance. Solid 10-hour battery life.

Other things to know: Audio is notably directional, with a dead spot directly behind it. The charging base is not waterproof. No stereo separation. Sonos released the second generation model last year. Available in black for Costco members.

Read our review of the best smart devices for making the most of your backyard and garden .

Akron Street Mysa Bed (Queen) — Our Pick Akron Street deal price: $1,166 ; street price: $1,295

What we like: Our pick for a no-frills, all-oak modern bed. Supremely simple, clean aesthetic with a low profile. Solid white oak construction. Supported by 15 acacia pine slats. Easy-to-assemble. Built to last. Works especially well with tall mattresses and small bedrooms.

Other things to know: Has 11.5-inch height, with an under-bed clearance of 6.8 inches. No warranty. Price reflects in-cart or use code TOTHETRADE. Standard shipping is free.

Read our review of the best modern bed frames to dress up your bedroom .

Homeasy Fabric Shaver — Our Pick Amazon deal price: $22 ; street price: $25

What we like: Our favorite electric fabric shaver. Features six sharp blades, a wide head, and intuitive controls. Very effective at getting rid of fuzz during our tests. Quiet and comfortable to hold. USB-rechargeable. Other thing to know: Three to six hour battery life on a full charge. Includes two replacement blades. About $2 higher than the lowest sale price we've seen, but still a good value.

Read our review of the best laundry aides to help your clothes look better and last longer .

Eufy Security Video Doorbell S220 (Battery-Powered) — Our Pick Amazon deal price: $100 ; street price: $180

What we like: Our pick for the best battery-operated smart doorbell camera. Solid performance with exceptional battery life. Sharp 2K image with local or cloud storage options. (Cloud offers 30 days of history for $3 per month or $30 per year, per camera.)

Other things to know: Compatible with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant. Recordings are limited to 60 seconds. Gaps between recordings can last around 8 seconds. Includes Eufy HomeBase. Make sure to clip the on-page coupon to get the deal price.

Read our review of the best smart doorbell camera .

Winix 5500-2 Air Purifier — Also Great Deal price: $128 ; street price: $150

What we like: An exceptional air purifier with a brutalist (or, if you prefer, minimalist) design. Venerable model with years of proven reliability. Performs similarly to the top-pick Coway Mighty and usually costs less up front.

Other things to know: No display shutoff except in lowest-purification sleep mode. Slightly elevated electrical use and larger visual footprint compared with our top pick.

Read our review of the best air purifier .

Revival Rugs - 25% Off Jute Area Rugs — Our Pick Deal price: $219 ; street price: $290

What we like: Our pick for a natural-fiber rug that comes in several colors. Flexible and finely woven, giving it a more delicate, flat appearance. Feels soft underfoot and barely sheds. Easy to vacuum and lightweight enough to shake out outside.

Other things to know: Best for dining rooms, kitchens, hallways, or layering in living rooms or bedrooms. Spot-clean only, as jute is very susceptible to water and humidity. Use code WCJUTE25 to save 25% on all jute rugs. Deal price is for the 5-by-8-foot size, but pricing varies depending on total cost; no minimum spend.

Read our review of the best area rugs .

Read our review of the best small kitchen ideas to create more space .

Waterpik Aquarius Water Flosser — Runner-Up Deal price: $58 ; street price: $80

What we like: Our runner-up pick for the best water flosser is just as effective as our top pick and comes with a similar three-year warranty. Easy to use and clean. Ten pressure settings, including a “massage” setting that emits pulses of water.

Other things to know: This is a corded model and requires a power outlet during use. Takes up more counter space than our top pick. Recurring deal price; $10 more than the deal we saw during Cyber Week.

Read our review of the best water flossers .

Black+Decker Pet Hair Remover — Staff Favorite Walmart deal price: $10 ; street price: $16

What we like: A lint roller for pet hair recommended by the Wirecutter staff. Reusable and tape-free. Effectively catches stray fur on fabric surfaces. The brush is made of velvet and silicone that grips the fur and traps it in a bin behind the roller. Works great on bedding.

Other things to know: Roll it back and forth on your bedding, couch, or clothing to pick up hair, and press the button to empty it once the bin is full. Opt for store pickup to avoid shipping fees or add to a combined order over $35 for free shipping.

Read our review of the best pet hair removers .

PetKit Eversweet Solo 2 Water Fountain — Upcoming Pick Amazon deal price: $40 ; street price: $50

What we like: An upcoming pick in our guide to the best water fountains for cats and dogs. Only five main parts to keep track of. The easiest fountain to take apart and clean in testing. Wireless pump is nearly silent and has a convenient auto shut-off feature so it doesn’t burn out when the water level gets too low.

Other things to know: Also comes with a companion app, which lets you set up cleaning and refill reminders, but it has a limited feature set.

Read our review of the best water fountain for cats and dogs .

Potaroma Flopping Fish Toy — Gift Pick Deal price: $10 ; street price: $14

What we like: A rechargeable motorized fish toy recommended in our guide to the best gifts for cats (and the humans they tolerate). Built-in motor has a motion sensor; as soon as you touch it, the fish wiggles around. Comes with a little bag of catnip.

Other things to know: A padded fabric toy. Charges via included USB cable. Several fish patterns are on sale for $10.

Read our review of the best gifts for cats .

PetFusion Jumbo Cat Scratcher Lounge — Upgrade Pick Deal price: $68 ; street price: $80

What we like: Our pick for the best cat bed for multicat households, this doubles as a scratcher, too. Both the largest bed we tested and the nicest scratcher we found. Big enough to sleep four cats comfortably. You can flip it over and use the underside when the top side shows wear and tear, prolonging its lifespan.

Other things to know: Large, about 39 by 14 inches. Cardboard may be too densely packed for some cats to comfortably scratch.

Read our review of the best cat beds (according to our cats) .

Editor’s note: The photo at the top of this article may reflect previous deals that are no longer valid and have been removed. Check out our Deals page for more great discounts on Wirecutter’s expert-approved picks.

This article was edited by Janie Campbell and Nathan Burrow.

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Wirecutter Staff