yacht varnish over teak oil

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Varnish over oiled teak?

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Hello all, I'm currently working on a 78 Newport 30, the boat has sat since 2008 with no work, but the previous owner was pretty meticulous and it's in pretty good condition. However, all the wood topside, which I'm assuming is teak, appears to have been oiled because there are no traces of varnish. The grain is clearly not smooth anymore and the new owner [a friend] wants to varnish it. Are there any incompatibility issues with applying new varnish over the old oiled wood? If so, any recommendations on what to do to insure a good result would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Doc_V  

Welcome Doc_V to Sailnut. I always use teak oil prior to using a finish like varnish or Cetol. The oil makes the wood look great. Teak oil is also largely made up of Linseed oil which is one of the main components of most primitive varnishes. There should be no incompatibility between teak oil and varnish. I stopped using varnish as it is too labor intensive and have switched to Cetol Natural Teak which holds up better. I find that even after oiling the teak and applying Cetol on top I have no problems with the finish coming up. Of course, I like to let the teak oil seep in for about a week or two before I apply the more durable finish like Cetol. If I am in a hurry and can't wait I wipe the oiled teak down with Acetone on a rag and then start applying the finish coat. Wiping the wood down with Acetone prior to applying any finish is a good idea no matter how long the oil has had to seep in. A caveat: teak oil will not make wood that has gone gray/silver with age look good unless it has been lightly sanded such that the wood is a more blond color. I have used a razor blade to take down the higher ridges followed by a light sanding with #220 grit sand paper and find that it is sufficient enough to allow the teak oil to soak in and create a nice ruddy (dark red) hue in the teak. You might be amazed at how good your wood can look with a little prep work and some teak oil applied to it.  

Oil and oil based varnishes are compatible. So depends on what type of varnish was used - oil based or urethane, etc. based. However, an oil finish unless specifically 'loaded' with UV stabilizers will ultimately oxidize and darken to 'black'. Oil finishes arent good surface treatments of exterior teak for this reason. Better to strip the oil either chemically with TriSodiumPhosphate - TSP or sand it down to flat-grained. There are too many modern finishes that far exceed the service life of 'varnish'; and, constantly sanding, etc. the surface to constantly re-varnish 'wears out' the wood - faster than letting it go grey and 'eroded'.  

Thanks for the info. I've been doing some additional digging around based on the Cetol recommendation, and it sounds like that's the way to go...  

is RichH's post the consensus - that our good options for exterior teak are; a. let it go grey or b. use a modern "finish" like cetol? or is calebd's point that one should oil and then do cetol better? since i'm new to this and have someone who would be willing to help with freshening up the exterior teak i'd like to know consensus best practice (or at least the 2-3 dominant perspectives). i'm in brooklyn and don't need to fight the tropical sun.  

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Varnish over Teak Oil?

• Thread starter sailsmanship
• Start date Nov 28, 2005

sailsmanship

Petty officer 1st class.

• Nov 28, 2005

Have a Transom cap that is teak. Sanded/Refinished it this summer and tried the periodic oiling of the teak to keep it looking good. Got real tired of that real quick. Would like to refinish it again and put multiple coats of varnish on it. Question is: the teak still has a very small bit of oil on it. I got tired of oiling it and just let it dry out the rest of the summer. Should I let it dry out more over the winter, or can I varnish over it now?  

ivan_ogburn

• Nov 29, 2005

Re: Varnish over Teak Oil? Teak doesn't hold varnish as well as other woods due to its oil content, but a long-lasting coating is possible with the right technique. Books have been written about applying varnish. You may not get that perfect, mirror-like finish on your first try, but as long as the wood is ivory smooth, the weather is warm and dry, and you don't "worry" the varnish with too many brush strokes, you should get admirable results. Plan on applying at least six coats.  

Re: Varnish over Teak Oil? Forget it, you are not going to be happy with the results. <br /><br />OK, You can do it and maybe get away with it if it is interior teak, but not outside. Because of the oil in teak, it will come to the surface in warm weather and crack the varnish, then you have to remove the varnish.<br /><br />How about replacing the teak with another wood like mahogany?<br /><br />If you are going to try it anyway, soak the teak in Laguer thinner or acetone and it will dry the oil out some. Then let the thinner evaporate and go from there. Unless you are doing this inside, wait untill next spring.  

Chief Petty Officer

Re: Varnish over Teak Oil? I varnished my teak trim 3 years ago, still looks great. Boat is only outside when being used though. 3 coats, light sanding between each coat.<br /><br />DougV>  

Re: Varnish over Teak Oil? Dek Olje, will give you a brite finish that will last 4 to 5 years in fresh water, we use it on alot of boats.  

Re: Varnish over Teak Oil? You might have a look at Sikkens Cetol rather than varnish. I haven't tried it yet, but I plan to.<br /><br />Oiling teak is way too much hassle unless you have only got a couple pieces of it to do, or store your boat under cover. Washing with acetone will help spar varnish stick, but it's a continuous maintanance operation too - only expect a couple years before you've got some work to do.  

• Nov 30, 2005

Re: Varnish over Teak Oil? Best thing I've ever used for teak is Watco oil.  

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Teak Oil or Spar Varnish?

• Thread starter wolfgw8625
• Start date Jan 25, 2014
• Catalina Owner Forums
• Smaller Boats

What are the opinions out there regarding finishing wood trim on my Capri 18 with spar varnish instead of continually using teak oil? I know teak oil is the traditional method of protecting the wood, but it seems to me that the labor savings and possible life extension of my wood trim might warrant switching to spar varnish? Does anyone out there have a spar varnish finish that they have had on for several seasons? What are your thoughts?  

I like the look of freshly cleaned and oiled teak. Problem is it doesn't last long especially when in weather. On my c22 the PO varnished the handrails but just oiled the crib boards. The handrails are still a nice golden color while the crib boards needs another cleaning this Spring. I will be using varnish from now on. I also feel that the yearly cleaning and brushing of teak takes it toll. It starts to wear the softer fibers and leaves a raised grain. It all depends on what you like. Some like the teak to turn grey, some like it dark....I prefer a golden color and the varnish seems to protect the teak from weather.  

if you put about 5 coats of teak oil on it will last a lot longer than just a rub on coat and the more coats you put on the glossier it gets ..but it takes about 6 days to do five coats as you need to let it dry between each coat ..... regards woody  

watercolors II

Maintenance free is plastic. I've used oil and it has to be applied a couple times a season. I've used varnish and it will last a couple years until it needs to be completely redone. I've now gone to varnish "Flagship"13 coats minimum with sanding between coats and then made canvas coverings for all. Every spring I sand and apply two coats of varnish, prettiest girl at the lake.  

Stu Jackson

Barnacle bill.

Teak oil is subject to evaporation, so to keep it looking nice, you have to reapply, which is easier than varnishing. There are cheap teak oils and more expensive ones, and of course, most people don't like to spend money, so they buy the cheap stuff. Interlux, for example, has a teak oil that is quite expensive, but it lasts a lot longer I have found. So, like most anything, you get what you pay for. Teak wood has natural oils in it and so you can't just varnish away with good results. The oil will lift the varnish in time, unless you do it properly. Properly means cleaning the teak well and priming it. There are some epoxy primers out there for varnish base coatings or you can go with Epiphanes's Teak Formulated varnish, but you must follow their directions for best results. I use this one a few of my boats and I love it, but it is a labor of love because you have to put on up to 8 or more coats of any varnish to make it look really nice. Another alternative is Sikkens Cetol which is also a teak sealer. They have had several generations of the stuff of which the first was too orangy colored. But now they have improved the color and the last formulation called something like Natural Teak is the only one of their products with a UV filter (or inhibitor). Most exterior varnishes have UV filters in them, but they are not permanent nor last for ever. You have to give it a recoat to replenish the UV inhibitor feature, but it is recommended to lightly sand your varnished teak annually and give it a coat anyway to keep it up. BTW, the Epiphane's teak varnish can be applied daily without sanding between coats, which makes it easier to do, but sometimes sanding now and then gives you a better look anyway. Back to Sikkens.....you apply a minimum of 3 coats of Sikkens Cetol - no more than one coat a day - and if you do this within the 2 week window, you don't have to sand between coats either. If you desire a high gloss finish (but Sikkens looks pretty good with the base formula), you can add their gloss finish on top of the first three coats. Sikkens is so easy and really lasts a long time and so if you are looking for something between oil and varnish, try Sikkens Cetol.  

I sanded and teak oiled all the outside wood, some are new pieces. I wipe on a coat once a season. After three years it still looks great. I do have a boat cover that covers all the wood. I use the cover when the boat is on the trailer. I prefer that look-others prefer high gloss varnish. Some like the gray un-finished look. Do what you prefer.  

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Deciding Between Teak Oil Vs Varnish (Best Practice Revealed)

Teak oil is some pretty special stuff.

Created originally as a finish for Teak wood furniture, this oil does a brilliant job at nourishing and enhancing otherwise drab-looking wood grain.

It’s made from a blend of Linseed oil, Tung oil, varnishes and mineral spirits. And this hodgepodge blend of natural oils and additives will soak deep into wood grain.

Which means that a few coats of Teak oil can protect lumber – right down to those fine wood fibers.

So, if Teak oil can do that, why would you even need to consider varnish instead?

Well, varnish will do a better job at preventing scratches and abrasions on the surface of wood. And this is due to the fact that it is more durable than Teak oil.

But, this isn’t the only practical reason why you’d choose varnish over teak oil ( quick hint: appearances matter too )…

This post may contain affiliate links to products that we receive a commission for (at no additional cost to you). Learn more here.

First Off, Is Teak Oil A Good Wood Finish?

Teak oil is a great wood finish.

It soaks into wood, just like Linseed oil and Tung oil. But, thanks to its additional ingredients, Teak oil won’t take anywhere near as long to dry as a natural oil finishes does.

Related Post: How To Make Linseed Oil Dry Faster (What You Need To Know)

Does Teak Oil Waterproof Wood?

Teak oil will make wood water-repellent – so it offers waterproofing up to a point.

However, it needs to be stated that this oil finish is not a 100% waterproof sealant. Regardless, it still does everything you need a wood finish to do, in that it;

• A. Beautifies wood grain,
• B. Makes lumber water-repellent, and…
• C. Makes that timber much more bug-resistant.

Is Teak Oil A Drying Oil? Yes it is. This oil will dry and cure into a hard solid coat on the surface of wood.

But, as with most oil finishes, Teak oil can really darken wood after application.

Usually, this doesn’t pose a problem on brown or reddish lumber. Especially if you wanted to further deepen the color of a wooden surface.

Related Post: How To Darken Cherry Wood (What You Need To Know)

But if you apply Teak oil onto a pale grey wood, (such as Teak wood), this finish will turn wood from silver-grey to very dark-grey.

And Does Teak Oil Always Make Wood Darker?

Teak oil will always make wood darker, and that is due to it’s Linseed oil ingredient.

Linseed oil is not a great finish for very light colored wood types, because this particular oil injects a burnt-amber hue to lumber.

In other words, if you want wood to maintain its natural color, then avoid applying a Linseed oil finish to it.

Consequently, if you use Teak oil, you will get the same effect; which is that Teak oil will darken wooden surfaces.

In addition to that, direct UV rays will intensify things even further. So don’t be surprised if that Teak oil finish turns wooden decks from light grey to dull black.

So, Which One Is The Better Finish; Varnish Or Oil?

If you can only use one finish, and your choice is between varnish and teak oil, then choose varnish . Here’s why:

• Varnish will give wood a shine that’s more glossy than Teak oil.
• Varnish doesn’t darken wood anywhere near as much as Teak oil will.
• And varnish is more waterproof than Teak oil.

Side Note: You can use both varnish and teak oil together for extra waterproofing. Learn more by checking out our post here: Can You Varnish Over A Teak Oil Finish? (Best Practice Revealed)

What’s Not To Like About Varnish?

One of the main disadvantages of varnish is that it needs regular upkeep if it’s to be used on outdoor furniture or decking.

Varnish can succumb quite harshly to weathering. It will peel, and even crack, if it is not maintained. Plus, once those small cracks form, water will seep in under the varnish and cause a lot of damage.

So, just be aware that using this sealer is far from a one-and-done job. That varnish coat will need sanding/reapplication at least once a year.

Related Post: Can You Varnish Over Wax Finished Furniture?

That’s not to say that Teak oil won’t require a fair amount of maintenance too. It absolutely does. If you use Teak oil on outdoor surfaces, then be prepared to reapply it every 3-6 months.

Another Quick Side Note: It is worth pointing out here that if you’re thinking about applying teak oil or varnish onto teak wood specifically, best practice is that you don’t. Teak wood is a dense oily wood. And it doesn’t need an oil finish, varnish, or most any kind of sealer. To learn more about why this popular boat-building material doesn’t need oil/varnish, check out our post here: Can You Apply Lemon Oil On A Teak Wood Surface?

If you are sealing anything besides a Teak wood surface: Use varnish. It is more durable and requires less upkeep than a Teak oil finish.

If you are sealing a Teak wood surface: Use neither. High-quality Teak wood doesn’t need any kind of water-repellent varnish coat or oil treatment.

Deterioration of Teak Wood in Accelerated Decay Test

Related Posts:

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Oil versus varnish

• Thread starter armchairsailor
• Start date 12 Aug 2017
• 12 Aug 2017

armchairsailor

Active member.

Still thinking aloud... For toerails and grabrails in teak, I was thinking that a more practical approach to care might be to oil them. Obviously it wouldn't look half as nice, and is just a one way trip. Do you get a decent enough finish, or would stripping off the varnish be something people have regretted? BTW, any work done would be on a tight budget and tight amounts of time. It would also have to be done whilst on the water.  

Well-known member

Well that's the most difficult question in boating! Varnish staying on Teak and Iroko strikes me as almost impossible. I ran out of time at the beginning of the season and I only got two coats on the Iroko rail. Looking yesterday some of the Varnish has vanished! Of course in the rush, the preparation was poor. My cockpit locker lids are also Iroko and over the 27 years of ownership it has been a perpetual 'Forth Bridge' job. But then I stripped back to bare and used Epifanes Woodfinish. It is a suedo varnish - it isn't really varnish but the result is. It is different to International Woodfinish becasue the Epifane is design specially for the oily timber of Teak and Iroko. It sort of breathes. So far for 4 years of the Epifanes Woodfinish for the cockpit lockers it has stayed, copes with the heavy footfall etc. After the first coat, repeated coats of the Epifanes can go straight on without rubbing down provided it is within the set period (which from memory is 48 hours). It is also very easy to apply. So next winter the rail will go back to basics for the Epifanes. Oh. I did the grabrails (Iroko) this year and they look very, very good with the Epifanes. Nobody would tell it isn't real varnish.  

Beware of Teak Oil from a chandler it does not say so on the pack but it has cheaper Linseed oil in it. As we found it goes black caused by UV I had to sand every piece of teak to remove it took hours. Buy only pure teak oil. There is teak oil with a UV protector but I have no idea if it works. Choose varnish carefully: Gloss oil-based varnish, polyurethane and Danish oil can last 10 or 20 years, though satin finishes and stains may fail sooner as pigments and flattening agents disable the driers. Water-based coatings and paints can also be viable longer than three years. Shellac, though, can go bad in under a year.  

Deleted member 36384

If on limited time and budget, then you have a great excuse for not applying any coating to grab / handrails. I prefer my grab rails to be plain wood as the grip is better. I am a fan of DekOlje on the cap over the gunwale but it does need regular topping up, a quick wipe with a saturated rag along the wood. It fades away over time quite quickly if not regular. I am a convert to Woodskin on the hatches as it does stay on for a long time with no real effort to maintain. I use Ronseal exterior satin varnish for the locker lids and just about everywhere else. It has went on well but this is the first year of extensive use. So far the cockpit lid is doing well. https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/deks-olje-d1/  

KellysEye said: Beware of Teak Oil from a chandler it does not say so on the pack but it has cheaper Linseed oil in it. As we found it goes black caused by UV I had to sand every piece of teak to remove it took hours. Buy only pure teak oil. There is teak oil with a UV protector but I have no idea if it works. That is a very broad statement. It depends what teak oil the chandler stocks!! Cheap teak oils consist largely of white spirit with a little tung oil, linseed oil, colouring and cheap biocide. Good (expensive) teak oils contain a lot of tung oil, more linseed oil, less colouring and good quality biocide. Black staining is caused by mould, not by UV! There is no such thing as "pure teak oil". Varnish, whether oil based or polyurthane is very different from Danish Oil. As above, good (expensive) Danish Oils are based largely on natural oils but differ from teak oil in that they are film forming because they contain a little resin. Danish Oil and Teak Oil fall into the little and often category of coatings, after initial application but Danish Oil will last a little longer than Teak Oil and resist staining to a much higher degree Click to expand...

If you oil teak the oil attracts dirt. The easiest way to clean the oil out and to restore the new look of the teak is to use wessex two part cleaner. https://www.marineteak.co.uk/wessex...MIwpvl_KLR1QIV6LvtCh0n7APlEAQYASABEgLuD_D_BwE .  

BlowingOldBoots said: If on limited time and budget, then you have a great excuse for not applying any coating to grab / handrails. I prefer my grab rails to be plain wood as the grip is better. Click to expand...

Cedar Oil. Saying nothing more.  

Oil is not very effective. It does not last in outdoor conditions and you are forever topping it up. Varnishes, either oil based or polyurethane tend not to adhere well to teak and crack, water gets in and film fails. Only thing that stands a chance is the porous woodstains such as International Woodskin or products made for the building industry such as Sikkens of Cetol. These will outlast any marine finish and slowly erode rather than crack of flake so easy to top up or patch. Only downside is they are nor very glossy and tend to be tinted.  

I've tried both oil and varnish. I strongly recommend doing neither and leaving it bare. Oil on toerails drains down the side of the boat and you are forever cleaning it off the hull. If you leave over coating varnish too long it blisters and you have to clean the whole thing off and do it again.  

• 13 Aug 2017

>Black staining is caused by mould, not by UV! I can assure it was not mould it was UV damage, in the Caribbean UV levels are high, and the teak needed to be sanded not cleaned. That's why UV resistant teak oil is sold but as I said I have no idea if it works. One thing I forgot mention is the teak had varnish when I bought the boat but it was in a bad condition I made a big mistake using teak oil. Once sanded I applied nothing and as a hardwood it's fine, just leave it alone.  

Flood-coat your teak 3 times a year with Boracol. No other maintenance needed. Oil is filthy stuff. Varnishing is crazy. Bare wood looks good, and has good grip (isn't that the point?).  

I've seen good results with ' Osmo' from Screwfix... Trialing it at home on a wooden handrail currently.  

Have you tried hardwax oil - several suppliers. I used it on a restaurant table a year ago, and it still looks new. Treatex is a good brand. available in mat, satin and gloss finish. Infinately re oil able, easy to apply.  

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July 14, 2016

To varnish or not to varnish short answer...don't varnish., below i will review the process of applying cetol..

• Cetol is easier to apply than varnish (put on 3-4 coats, no work in between coats)
• It's easier to remove than varnish
• It lasts 2-3 years before you need to re-touch (varnish lasts 6-12 months)
• in general, varnish has a deeper and richer look vs. cetol
• some people complain about the slightly orange color in cetol

Final pictures after 4 coats of sikkens cetol marine natural teak

Cetol Marine Natural Teak Reviews

25 comments:.

Thanks for your advice here! I'm wondering how Cetol works with mahogany - which is primarily what I have. Fair winds, Kelly

@Kelly, Cetol works fine on Mahogany, its not specific to teak. Best of luck with the endeavor - Kevin

What a great result! Personally, I don't mind the slightly orange tint :/ the final result. Thanks for putting up this post, I've been trying to decide how best to give new life to my exterior woodwork and now I think I know how to proceed. Mike www.FillingTheSails.com

Mike, Glad it was helpful. Best of luck with the woodwork -

Nice job, Kevin. She looks great. I use a combination of Cetol and varnish - I finish a couple areas bright with varnish & the easy-to-maintain areas, and do the rest with Cetol (hand rails, eyebrows, etc.). I find that the varnish is easy this way. 2x year refresh the surface with two coats, gentle sanding/scuffing for prep, and that takes care if it. But if you let it get away from you, then it's more labor by far.

Rick Bailey Interesting - I've never tried that - but it makes sense.. Does the transition from cetol to various varnish look okay?

It doesn't bother me.

Rick, Good to know - I may try that in the future. Kevin

Hi All, My wife's boat has a wood mast. We first used Schooner which had the expected result of normal varnishing. Since pulling the mast often is a pain, the next go around we used Awlspar (multi coat a day, fast build up! A dream to apply!!). We applied 14 coats with no sanding between coats, as long as we did not go longer than 24 hrs between coats. Then we sand smooth. Lastly we put on 3 coats of Cetol clear gloss and it's done great. Now 3 years later, we'll sand and top off with another Cetol clear coat. We're at 36° North.

That's great to hear Jim B - I have heard that Cetol makes for a nice final finish. Yeah, the trick it to keep up with it - then you're never sanding down to the base.

Kevin Curran, When you look at Cetol and varnish side by side, vanish is shinier. That is the only drawback. I don't see Bahamian varnish crews using it on Trumpy's and Newport jewels. But if I look at Cetol alone, it looks great.

Capt C- I use Starbrite Teak Sealer on my Teak Patio set (huge 12 pc set). 2 coats typically lasts 12-18 months. When it wears down I just scrub it clean with a bristle brush and SB Teak Cleaner (gel formula), then re-apply the sealer. This works well and I DONT have to sand/sandblast/powerwash the whole set. When the Sikkens wears down, do you have to sand it off or just use a brush and cleaner? Again, I'd rather scrub and re-apply sealer more frequently (12-18mo) than have to sand once every 3-4 years. Thanks and Fair Winds!

Hello Eddie W, Yes, you are right... it is all about upkeep. Basically, the same maintenance you are practicing on your patio furniture will serve you well on the boat. Every 12-18 months you should do a touch-up. With the cetol, you do not need to sand again, as long as you don't let it go beyond 18 months. You just clean it up with a sponge or cloth - get the dust off - maybe a light brush - and then add on another coat of cetol, or you can add on a coat of a sealer. Come to think of it...it is time for me to do exactly that! Kevin

Awesome post

If you didn’t use the gloss coat to finish the natural gives you nonUV protection

Hi Jeremy, I'm not sure that's correct. I just checked out the specs on their website. They definitely include UV protecting elements in the natural teak cetol. From the interlux site for this product: Cetol Marine Natural Teak With Next Wave UV-absorbing technology, it offers incredible protection from damaging UV rays. It’s durable, translucent and creates a rich golden color finish on interior and exterior woods above the waterline. Specialty resins and advanced UV absorbers that provide greater protection, durability and longevity

Hi Cap'n, I use Cetol exclusively on the exposed timber on my converted trawler, on the Queensland Coast (15-23S is my cruising range). At these latitudes, varnish is strictly for masochists. My exterior Cetol is pretty ordinary after 3 years, (yair, I'm lazy, but I have cruised 1600nM in that time), but the interior stuff just needs a rub with 240 and a couple of new coats. All feature timber is PNG Kwila or Teak. A question- I have heard of a hardener for Cetol. All my tables and benchtops are Cetolled and it has very poor resistance to Overproof Bourbon and Gin, the two chemicals most likely to be spilt at my tables. Anyone who "knows" about the hardener won't share their info. Just wondering if you have heard anything. Regards, Cap'n Greg.

Cap'n Greg, I feel your pain. Bourbon and gin are no strangers to my cabin either....Yes, it is true, a cetol final coat would benefit from a good hardener. That would probably extend the time between the next cetol treatment also... Alas, I have no recommendations on a good product. I am not being coy either, I would share this if I knew... I don't use the cetol down below, so it's never been an issue. If any other readers have a suggestion for Greg, please share. Kevin

Cap'n Curran, Your cetol'd teak is great - you've sold me on that. But would you put it on decks? I've experienced significant discomfort on oiled teak decks - they get HOT - as opposed to natural feathered decks which are cool under bare feet. How long can one expect untreated teak decks to last before needing work/replacement? Thanks, BC

This is really helpful. I just started sailing (recently retired) and bought an old Catalina 25. I want to clean it up and make it look good but I don’t want to spend my remaining life doing that. You helped me decide Cetol is the right answer for me. Thanks!!

Hi BC, I've never had a problem on cetol decks barefoot.... always been comfortable, but I live in San Diego, so it's not too hot here. I put on two new coats about once a year... maybe once every two years if it looks pretty good. Capn Curran

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• Boat Maintenance

Maintenance of Interior Teak

Nevertheless, the simplicity of finishing teak, the economy of a single variety of wood in inventory, and the ready acceptance by boat buyers, are all attractive reasons why boatbuilders use the wood for interior decor.

With resistance to weathering as its primary virtue, however, teak makes less sense for use as trim below. Nevertheless, the simplicity of finishing teak , the economy of a single variety of wood in inventory, and the ready acceptance by boat buyers, are all attractive reasons why boatbuilders use the wood for interior decor .

Typically, only the most expensive boats have interior teak that is varnished, usually with a satin-finish varnish for a “hand-rubbed” effect. Such a finish should last for years if it is not abused or allowed to get wet. Maintenance can be no more than an occasional wipe with furniture oil or polish and another coat of varnish every decade or so.

Many boatowners wonder if it would be worthwhile to varnish the oiled teak trim in a typical production boat in order to take advantage of the easiermaintenance. From the standpoint of reduced maintenance, the answer is, “probably not.” At least three coats of varnish would be required (a Hinckley, for example, has six to eight). The time required to prepare the surfaces, and to sand and varnish the trim in a 30-foot production boat, could amount to a full winter’s work. In fact, it is quite likely that the total amount of work would be more than the amount of effort required to maintain the oiled teak trim over the lifetime of the boat.

On the other hand, from the standpoint of aesthetics, a varnished interior has much to recommend it. After all, such an interior may be the best way to upgrade your boat’s interior to resemble a Hinckley or a Swan. Of course, if the wood is anything but teak, the question is moot; oak, mahogany, butternut, birch, and ash must be protected with varnish, preferably with an epoxy sealer underneath.

The quality of the interior finish varies widely among boatbuilders. Some builders leave teak rough and bare, others (curse them) rough and oiled, and still others (to their credit) make a real effort to sand the wood smooth and oil it carefully. Despite the variation, however, almost any production boat with teak below can benefit from a reasonable amount of time and energy devoted to improving the look and feel of the wood.

Preparation The key to finishing joinerwork is to start with a smooth surface, and that, of course, means sanding. Even some of the better boatbuilders sometimes deliver boats with trim that is only as smooth-or as rough-as it comes out of the planer. Others may simply have a helper give the interior trim a swipe or two withapieceof sandpaper thedaybefore theboat is delivered. Well-finished joinerwork apparently costs more in labor than can be added to the price of some boats.

Fortunately, the boatowner can often take up where the builder left off with a minimum of difficulty. Before applying oil or varnish, sand the wood in the direction of the grain with the finest sandpaper that smooths it with a reasonable amount of effort; 120-or 150-grit should be about right. Oiled wood that is rough will take coarser paper and more work, since the oil both darkens and hardens the surface of the wood.

Avoid the use of power sanders, except possibly a high-speed palm sander, in order to prevent scars and swirl marks. Finish sanding should always be done by hand with 220-or even 240-grit paper for a first-class job. Again, be careful to sand in the direction of the grain and to get into tight corners.

At this point, your investment may be such that you actually consider a varnish finish (but sleep on the notion). Preparation of the wood is more than half the work of applying an oiled finish, but this preparation is only just the first step for a varnished interior.

Varnishing Interior Trim If you do decide to varnish, give the wood a final sanding with fresh 240-grit paper (or whatever is specified on the varnish can> for an extra measure of satisfaction and smoothness. Then, give the wood at least three coats of varnish; five is better, especially in high-traffic areas.

Belowdecks, there is no need to use a marine varnish with an ultraviolet inhibitor. We suggest a good-quality polyurethane varnish such as ZipGard. We have found that polyurethane varnishes are durable, economical, easy to apply, and fast drying. A second coat can often be applied in two to three hours.

Varnish with a high gloss shows every surface irregularity, tends to hide the grain of the wood, and sometimes reflects light in an objectionable manner. For these reasons, we prefer a semi-glossor satin-finish varnish which simulates a hand-rubbed surface. The traditional method for producing a hand-rubbed finish is to first rub down the final coat with powdered pumice applied with rubbing felt and water. This is followed by rubbing with rottenstone and linseed oil applied with a soft cotton cloth. Some of the modem rubbing compounds available at your local hardware store are considerably easier to use, however. We have used Duffy’s Elbow Grease with good results. This is a Vaseline-like grease which is used with 0000 bronze wool. (The instructions call for steel wool, but tiny bits of steel wool inevitably end up rusting in a marine environment.)

Whether using pumice and rottenstone or one of the newer greases, the object of hand-rubbing is to rub out all the dust sediment, brush strokes, rough spots, and hairs. Hand rubbing produces a beautiful finish, but it is a lot of work. Try it on a small piece like a sextant box before deciding to hand-rub the entire interior. Better yet, use a satin-finish varnish.

If you choose to varnish interior wood, we suggest that you avoid the use of waxes and furniture polishes on the finish. Modern polyurethane varnishes are so hard they do not need the additional protection of wax. Moreover, wax complicates any future recoating with varnish, in that all traces must be sanded or washed off in preparation for revarnishing. With a thick enough varnish finish, only a damp cloth should be needed for routine maintenance and cleaning.

Oiling Interior Trim If inclination and inertia tell you not to varnish but rather to finish the wood with an oil or dressing, choose a top-quality furniture oil. These are usually linseed oil- or tung oil-based, both of which seal the grain of the wood and harden the surface over time. One major difference between linseed oil and tung oil is that linseed oil tends to darken more than tung oil as it oxidizes; otherwise they share essentially the same virtuous characteristics. Incidentally, we would not use any of the teak dressings (including Deks Olje) intended for on-deck use. Most are high in penetrating solvents and low in oils and are not intended to produce a smooth surface on the wood.

Wipe on the oil liberally and rub it into the wood thoroughly. Use a polyfoam brush to apply the oil and a soft terrycloth pad to rub. A small amount of turpentine added to the oil (for the first coat only) should increase penetration. All traces of excess oil should be rubbed off; rub well into corners and crevices. Let the first coat dry for a day or two and follow up with subsequent coats. No excess oil should remain on the wood surface after the rubbing is completed; it will remain sticky, collect dirt, and may stain clothes and upholstery. After a day or so, if you find that the surface feels oily, give the whole surface a final hard rub with a clean piece of terrycloth dampened with turpentine.

Treatments for exterior teak are usually only available from marine outlets, but most neighborhood hardware stores carry a number of oils that are suitable for interior trim. We have used both Min-wax “hand-rubbed” effect oil and Watco Danish Teak Oil in the “original” finish on belowdecks teak, and have found them both to produce a pleasing and long-lasting finish. Both can also be used on interior mahogany trim if it is unvarnished. Lighter oils such as Scott’s Liquid Gold produce a nice finish and are easier to apply, but do not last nearly as long. These oils are better for an occasional sprucing up, rather than an original finish. A light coat of Liquid Gold, incidentally, does wonders for the appearance of bulkheads covered with the “wood-grain” plastic laminates such as Formica.

If you want an absolutely smooth finish, let the first few coats of oil harden for a few weeks, then apply another coat of oil and rerub. This time, however, use 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper or fine bronze wool rather than a terrycloth pad. Use the oil instead of water with the sandpaper as a “wetting agent” and continuously wipe away the residue with a clean cloth as you work.

Since wax will not adversely affect future coats of oil the way it would with varnish, you may want to apply wax or furniture polish to an oiled surface. A good quality carnauba paste wax such as Butcher’s Wax gives the surface a glowing patina that rivals a hand-rubbed varnish finish, and protects the wood from grease and dirt.

A Few Words About Other Woods Some of the most impressive-looking modem yacht interiors use light-colored woods such as ash, butter nut, spruce, and white oak for bulkheads and cabinetry. These woods pose problems that teak does not. Specifically, they are more liable to damage and discoloration from water. As a result, they must be well finished to prevent moisture from soaking into the wood.

Ash and oak are especially sensitive to water, almost instantly turning gray where they are exposed to a combination of air and water. This gray may be bleached out, but bleaching is a frustrating job and not likely to restore the wood to its original light yellow color. From the outset, even with a brand new boat finished in one of these woods, we would add a couple of coats of varnish wherever there is a chance that the wood may get wet. These areas include the area around the companionway, the deck hatches, the galley countertop, and berth risers close to the cabin sole. Also, plan to revarnish every couple of years or whenever there are signs of moisture penetrating into the wood.

Smooth, well-finished wood is easier to keep up than wood treated with low-effort finishes. An annual wipe-down with furniture polish should be enough, but watch for worn spots and water stains that may need some special attention.

Care of a Teak And Holly Cabin Sole The combination of teak “planks” and strips of holly has become a favorite of boatbuilders for cabin soles. The combination is handsome and looks “traditional,” even if its place in traditional boatbuilding is questionable.

Most teak and holly soles are just a thin veneer on a sheet of plywood. Left unprotected, the sole won’t last long, nor can it be easily restored. The thinness of the veneer and its location inside the cabin usually precludes the use of either a liquid teak cleaner or a power sander.

Unfortunately, there is no simple way to both assure protection for the wood, and to give a secure footing when the cabin sole is wet. Varnish suitable for protection does not have good nonskid characteristics.

Faced with this dilemma, we would use a satin-finish polyurethane floor varnish with just a small amount of nonskid grit (usually pumice or finely ground sand) added in areas such as the base of the companionway and outside the head, where wetness is apt to be a problem. And then don’t ignore the wear on the sole during annual maintenance; it may need an annual touching up with varnish.

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Teak Oil For Boats: Products & Care Guide...

Teak oil for boats: products & care guide.

Of all the time and treasure you put into your boat, nowhere will it be more noticeable than in the quality of your teak. Teak care and teak oil are often overlooked. But boat owners should learn what’s needed to care for this unique material. The tropical wood is far different than fiberglass or aluminum: teak came from living trees and needs to be treated with special attention. In this guide, you’ll learn the best practices for maintaining your teak using teak oil for boats.

Teak Oil For Boats

There are two essential steps for ensuring that your teak lasts long:

• Cleaning your teak and freeing it from any debris.
• Sealing your teak from the elements.

If you use the right teak care products , you can apply oil and sealer at the same time. This saves you money, energy, and time. If you find a teak oil, on the other hand, that says it needs further sealing after the oil has set in, keep browsing.

Teak Oil and Care Items You Need

• Life Scrub All . This heavy-duty stainless steel scrubber is great for scrubbing your teak clean without damaging it. Since teak and other hard woods are so difficult to scrub, a product that does most of the work for you will be a welcome way to clear out debris and prepare teak for oiling.
• Teak Brite® Brightener . Although this step isn’t always necessary, especially on new teak, you can use Teak Brite® before application of oil and sealer in order to give your teak a quick visual lift. Make sure to rinse thoroughly after use, and allow the teak to dry completely before the application of oil.
• Teak Brite® Advanced Formula Oil and Sealer . This is the step that accomplishes two in one. Let your teak dry a good 24 hours so that your oil and sealer will thoroughly penetrate the wood and give it the protection it needs. This is a very low-labor task, requiring only a simple application with a paint brush.

The most important thing to remember here is that each and every product should be applied separately. Allowing a full day for your teak to dry before applying the oil may seem like a long time to wait, but it will give you the best results.

Proper teak care doesn’t have to require endless reading and back-breaking work. With the right teak care products in hand, you can simply clean, rinse, dry, and apply the proper materials. If you do it the right way, your teak can be refinished in a weekend. Teak is an important material on any boat. It deserves the right products and the right care.

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• Teak oil vs Varnish

What to expect from teak oil finish?

Teak oil is a wiping varnish rather than a natural finishing oil. It often contains a resin, an alkyd generated from plants or manufactured plastic, such as polyurethane, tung, and linseed oil. Teak oil varies from Danish oil and many other compound oil finishes in the quantity of resin it contains and its oil-to-solvent ratio, and oil composition. Danish oil often contains more resin than teak oil, resulting in a glossier and more durable surface. 

You rarely know the entire makeup of your product because it’s not mandatory for manufacturers to reveal all ingredients. The surface must be clean when applying a finish to wood, as with any other surface. Sanding the surface right before using the oil eliminates damaged wood cells from the surface and expands the grain, enabling the finish to infiltrate more deeply.

What to expect from a varnish finish?

Varnish is better than the other traditional finishes since it is one of the hardest. It highlights and warms the grain of the wood while also being impact, heat, abrasion, water, and alcohol resistant. Over worn finishes, you can use it as a topcoat. Varnish gives the wood a clean sheen but also darkens it significantly. It comes in high-gloss, semi-gloss, satin finishes, and matte or flat surfaces. There are numerous types to pick from, but it’s critical to select one that complements the wood of your furniture.

Differences between teak oil and varnish?

Like most wood oils, teak oil infiltrates deeply into the wood, nurturing and preserving it from the inside out. As a result, it still works even if there’s no outside layer. On the other hand, varnish forms a protective layer over the furniture. If destroyed, it loses its protective function, and the elements can cause damage to your furnishings.

Teak oil can also alter the appearance of your furniture for this reason. When applied to dark hardwoods like mahogany or walnut, it permeates deeply and darkens the color of the wood and is sometimes desirable. Using teak oil on lighter woods like ash or birch, on the other hand, can cause unwanted darkening, which is unsightly.

On the other hand, varnish creates a glossy surface rather than changing the color of the wood. Some people prefer it to teak oil-induced darkening. Some brands also provide semi-gloss or satin varnishes, which do not affect the furniture’s appearance. If you like how your outdoor bench looks, we suggest using this varnish to protect it.

On the other hand, varnish requires less upkeep and does not need more work unless damaged. However, if you have minor children playing near the furniture, the varnish layer will get destroyed, and you will have to reapply it.

Similarities between teak oil and varnish

These wood treatments are applied similarly. You must, however, always adhere to the specific instructions provided by the product you are using. The following are the fundamentals of applying teak oil or varnish to similar outdoor furniture:

• Wipe down the furniture’s surface.
• Lightly sand the wood’s surface.
• Use a teak oil or varnish to protect the wood.
• Wipe away any excess product.
• Allow it to dry.

The final steps differ depending on the product you’re using, but they always require you to wait for it to dry. Some finishes call for multiple layers, while others don’t. That’s why it’s critical to follow the directions included with your finish.

Price comparison for teak oil and varnish 

Teak oil is more expensive than varnish. Because wood oil is natural and takes longer to extract, it is more costly. Varnish may also originate from different substances; thus, it isn’t scarce.

Wood oil is considerably more expensive due to the scarcity of its source. For example, because the Tung oil originates from Tung tree and is endemic to southern China, you may anticipate Tung oil to be more expensive than your typical varnish.

Teak oil vs marine varnish

Marine varnish is a protective finish that shields your wood from the elements such as the sun, rain, wind, sea spray, UV radiation, and chemicals. The materials marketed as marine or spar varnishes usually comprise a combination of oil, solvent, resin, ultraviolet compounds, and drying agents. 

The solvent element of the varnish evaporates when it dries. The remaining chemicals polymerize or oxidize to create a translucent, long-lasting coating. In the following ways, it differs from teak oil:

• Reduces Maintenance 

TotalBoat Halcyon varnish, a newer water-based compound, is noted for its finish purity, hardness, and longevity. Most water-based varnishes are more transparent than oil-based polyurethanes, with a typical amber tint.

Varnishes protect the wood from moisture far better than wood oils. Varnish coats the top of the wood with a thin coating. This coating protects against moisture infiltration caused by rain and sea spray. On the other hand, a wood teak oil penetrates the wood deeply and heals by reacting with oxygen.

Your newly varnished wood will ultimately succumb to the unrelenting assaults of sunshine, abrasion, and water. Your varnish will lose its wet texture as UV radiation reaches the base coats, and it will finally split from the wood. The only option then is to remove the old varnish and start fresh.

Teak oil or varnish for garden furniture?

Garden benches benefit greatly from teak oil. This oil nourishes the wood, preventing it from drying out and deteriorating and giving it a renewed look. It also prevents wood from splitting due to a lack of moisture deep within it. Teak oil is merely a temporary cure to beautify the wood; it is not difficult to use and requires less time and effort than sanding and varnishing. As a result, teak oil is becoming a less popular alternative for garden furniture. You can use it if you want to, but you’ll find that you’ll need to reapply it every few months. This high-maintenance habit may become tedious after a while.

Another issue with teak oil is that it provides an ideal environment for some species of fungus to thrive. Many people worry about black spots appearing on oiled teak furniture. However, by being more diligent with your application method, you can reduce this problem to a significant amount. After applying teak oil, let it sit for about 20 minutes before wiping away any excess oil with a clean towel.

In this instance, one of the various garden furniture varnishes is ideal for protecting and maintaining wooden garden furniture sets. These outdoor furniture varnishes come in clear and colored varieties suitable for new and old softwood and hardwood garden furniture. These exterior wood varnishes develop to tolerate fluctuations in temperature and moisture, and they seal and safeguard garden furniture from wind, rain, and sun. You can combine wood furniture coatings with a Garden Furniture Preserver for total protection.

Teak oil or yacht varnish

Varnish will crack and peel, requiring a significant amount of work to prepare for a new coat. Also, if it’s a functioning boat, it’ll get scratched and nicked regularly. Spot recoats can be done considerably early if you’re using oil. To avoid fire and water pollution, remember to handle the rags/applicators properly.

As a result, Teak oil is ideal. If you want to varnish the teak, first wash it with white spirit to remove the natural surface oil, then varnish it. Because teak is oily, the varnish will not adhere to it over time; oiling can be done with a clean rag and cleaned up to prevent the wood from turning grey. However, before oiling, you must remove all traces of the previous varnish.

Mixing teak oil and varnish 

The most extraordinary oils and varnishes are those that originate from scratch. If you want the least yellow concoction, use Pratt & Lambert 38 satin varnish and pure tung oil. Combine your varnish or poly varnish in a 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 ratio with linseed oil or pure tung oil and mineral spirits.

Apply liberally, wait 15–20 minutes, and wipe away excess. Allow drying overnight before repeating. Finally, let it dry completely for a week. Then, a non-woven Scotch Brite abrasive pad in grey or green uniformly rubs and smooths the surface. This procedure will remove any sheen from the surface and leave it smooth. If you don’t allow the finish to dry completely, you’ll wind up with white sanding dust in your pores.

This method should leave your item with the least shiny but protective finish. Before devoting to your actual project, test out your entire completion plan and timeframe.

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Which Yacht Varnish Is Best For My Boat?

Yacht varnish is a specialized type of varnish that is often used on boats. It has several advantages over conventional varnish, which is why it is becoming more and more popular among boat owners. In this guide, we will discuss the benefits of yacht varnish. We will also answer some common questions about yacht varnish. So if you are interested in learning more about this topic, keep reading!

Yacht varnish is a type of varnish specifically designed for boats. It is typically made from a tougher resin that can withstand the harsh conditions that boats are exposed to, such as salt water and sunlight. Yacht varnish also often contains UV inhibitors to help protect the wood from fading and other damage caused by exposure to sunlight. Conventional varnishes are not as durable as yacht varnish and will not stand up to the same conditions. This makes them less suitable for use on boats. However, they can still be used for other applications, such as furniture or around the garden.

Which types of varnish to use on my boat?

Marine varnish can be divided into three different types, each with its own perfect uses. Yacht owners choose to use one or all of these types for better performance.

Tung Oil-based varnish 

Is the most popular type among yacht owners who take boat maintenance seriously. International Schooner or Goldspar Boat Varnish are both oil-based varnishes that coats the wood evenly leaving a smooth finish while requiring minimal preparation work before it can be applied. This only requires a couple of coats. Is advisable to lightly sand the surface between coats to achieve the highest quality glossy finish. The smooth, high gloss finish will protect teak parts from water stains and help to maintain their appearance over time! Its UV protection helps prevent mould growth too which is especially important in wetter climates. Oil-based varnish is easy to apply and can be repaired by sanding and re-oiling the wood, meaning it will last longer than other conventional varnishes. It's also easier to apply compared with water-based yacht varnish which requires no sanding or priming before application.

Water-based boat varnish

Often used on marine boats where there is not much exposure to agitation or rubbing, making oil-based varnish too heavy for use. This yacht varnish type tends to leave a thin, powdery residue that needs sanding down after drying but offers better penetration into the wood than its oil counterpart. Polyurethane boat varnish - is much more hard-wearing than oil or water-based yacht varnishes. Stronger than oil-based or water-based yacht varnish, polyurethane yacht varnish tends to dry quickly and offers an ultra-hard surface that is resistant to impact, scratching and denting. This yacht varnish type has a high gloss tough finish so it's best suited for areas of the boat that are exposed to more wear and tear. This type of varnish can also be divided into two categories as one part polyurethane boat varnish and two-part polyurethane varnish.

One Part Polyurethane Varnish

The yacht varnish that is most commonly used for yacht paint jobs. The yacht varnish offers a quick drying time and can be easily re-coated within hours between each coat. It should be noted that due to its rigidity it is not recommended to be used for painting highly flexible wooden areas as it might crack in time leaving the wood exposed to elements. Two-Part Polyurethane Varnish - is the varnish with longer working times, making it easier to apply on larger boats. It's advisable to use only one part polyurethane yacht varnish for smaller projects as two-part yacht varnishes tend to leave an unprofessional finish when applied by hand. This type of varnish is extremely tough and consists of two products mixed together. It offers very good protection from moisture and UV damage but the same as the above this is not suitable for some areas on your yacht (such as spars) and it will crack as the wood moves and will leave the wood exposed to the elements.

Is yacht varnish waterproof?

Yes, yacht varnish is typically waterproof. This makes it a good choice for protecting boats from the elements. It can also help to keep the wood of the boat looking its best for longer.

Does yacht vanishes need a primer?

No, yacht varnish does not typically need primer. However, it is a good idea to test it on a small area of the surface you are going to varnish to make sure it adheres properly. If you do decide to use primer, make sure it is designed for use with yacht varnish.

Does yacht varnish seal wood?

Yes, yacht varnish seals the wood. It forms a protective barrier that helps to keep the wood from damage and keeps it looking its best for longer.

How long does yacht varnish last?

The lifespan of yacht varnish varies depending on the brand and the conditions it is exposed to. However, it typically lasts for several years, anywhere from two to three years before you need to apply a new coat or two. Some varnishes obviously last longer than others depending on the area where they will be applied.

Which is better? Woodstain or yacht varnish?

There is no simple answer to this question as it depends on the specific application and the needs of the user. However, in general, yacht varnish is a better option for protecting wood from the elements and keeping it looking its best. It is also typically more durable than wood stain, which makes it a better choice for boats.

Why is it important to sand between coats?

It is important to sand between coats of yacht varnish because it helps to create a smooth, even surface. This makes the final coat of varnish look its best and helps to protect the wood from damage.

How many coats should I apply?

The number of coats you should apply depends on the specific product you are using and the area you are varnishing. In general, two to three coats are sufficient. However, it is always a good idea to follow the manufacturer's instructions for the best results.

What type of finish can you get?

There are three types of finish on boat varnish: gloss, semigloss, and satin. Each one has its own benefits and drawbacks, so it is important to choose the one that best suits your needs. Gloss finish is the most durable, but it is also the most reflective. This can make it difficult to see in bright sunlight. The semigloss finish is less reflective than gloss, but it is still quite durable. It is a good choice for areas that receive moderate amounts of sunlight. The satin finish is the least reflective and also the least durable. However, it can provide a more natural look to the wood. It is a good choice for areas that do not receive a lot of sunlight.

Can you paint yacht varnish over wood stain?

Yes, you can put yacht varnish over the wood stain. However, it is important to make sure that the stain is fully dry before applying the varnish. Otherwise, you may end up with a sticky mess.

How long does it take for yacht varnish to dry?

The drying time for yacht varnish varies depending on the brand and the conditions it is used in. In general, you can expect it to take anywhere from six to eight hours to fully dry. However, it is always a good idea to read the manufacturer's instructions for the best results.

Can you thin yacht varnish?

Yes, you can thin yacht varnish if it is too thick. However, you should only use a thinner that is specifically designed for use with yacht varnish. Otherwise, you may end up with a poor-quality finish.

What is the best way to remove yacht varnish?

The best way to remove yacht varnish depends on the type of finish you have. If you have a glossy finish, you can use a polishing compound. For a semigloss or satin finish, you can use sandpaper. In general, it is best to remove yacht varnish with a power sander. However, you can also remove it by hand if you are careful.

Can I apply a new coat over the existing varnish?

Yes, you can apply a new coat of varnish over the existing varnish. However, it is important to make sure that the old coat is in good condition. Otherwise, you may not get the desired results.

Does yacht varnish go yellow?

Yacht varnish is designed to keep your boat looking good as new even throughout the season's hottest and coldest temperatures. The UV inhibitors prevent yellowing, which can otherwise occur due to exposure to external factors like sunlight or rainwater on a dock; they also remain slightly soft so that it will not crack when expanding or contracting with changes throughout each year. Liquids such as engine oils may cause blistering if left unprotected by an anti-blister agent like silicone lubricant (which contains graphite).

Is yacht varnish oil or water-based?

Yacht varnish is typically oil-based. This makes it more durable and resistant to fading. However, water-based varnishes are also available. These are less durable but easier to apply.

So which yacht varnish is right for you?

Choosing the right yacht varnish depends on how much time you want to put into maintaining your boat as well as its location. We stock a wide range of varnish suitable for any type of wood on your vessel.

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Russia sends nuclear fuel across arctic on ship with history of safety violations, weeks after sending crude oil on non-ice class tankers through the arctic, russian authorities shipped nuclear fuel across the northern sea route on a cargo ship not specialized in the transport of nuclear fuel. ship records also show a host of safety deficiencies during past inspections. the nuclear fuel traveled from murmansk to pevek to resupply the floating nuclear power plant akademik lomonosov..

Article by High North News

Five years after towing the world’s only floating nuclear power plant into the Arctic, Russia’s State Nuclear Energy Corporation, Rosatom, delivered a fresh batch of nuclear fuel to the facility.

The nuclear material traveled along the Northern Sea Route (NSR) from Murmansk to Pevek aboard the cargo ship  Smp Arkhangelsk .

Ship records indicate that the vessel has a long history of safety violations and deficiencies recorded during inspections over the last decade. The vessel’s owner, Northern Shipping Company, has also been  under sanctions by the US  since May 2022.

The transport of nuclear fuel customarily occurs on highly specialized vessels under strict international guidelines. The carrying of nuclear fuel on a conventional cargo ship across the Arctic’s icy waters is a cause for concern, according to industry experts interviewed by HNN.

The nuclear fuel was  manufactured by Rosatom fuel company “TVEL”  in Elektrostal near Moscow before it was dispatched aboard  Smp Arkhangelsk  from Murmansk on September 15. The vessel arrived in Pevek 10 days later and took up position next to Akademik Lomonosov.

Based on satellite images analyzed by HNN the transfer of fuel took approximately 10 days.

A history of deficiencies

The vessel, constructed in 2002 by Damen Shipyard in Romania, has passed through the hands of seven different owners before arriving with its current operator, Northern Shipping Company.

Port inspections going back more than a decade reveal violations ranging from missing voyage data recorder, lack of rescue boats and defect fire pumps, to inoperative auxiliary engines and MARPOL pollution prevention violations.

While some of the violations were minor and none were severe enough to necessitate the detention of the vessel, they do paint a picture of an aging ship with ongoing deficiencies. Available public records also do not show any inspections since 2021.

“Considering this a voyage with dangerous cargo, it is pushing the limits,” explains Sigurd Enge, Senior Advisor on Shipping at Bellona Foundation, an international environmental NGO headquartered in Oslo, Norway.

“The risk connected to this vessel, on the Northern Sea Route in October is high, and based on their [safety inspection] track record, is very high,” continues Enge, who is one of the most experienced advisers at Bellona, working on marine safety.

“The Port State Controls with violation indicates that there is a high risk that an incident can occur. And with a history of lack of safety equipment, inadequate propulsion and auxiliary machinery, certificates and fire pumps, an incident can quickly turn into a serious event in terms of firefighting, safety equipment and skills.”

Not following international customs

The transport of nuclear materials in international waters is highly regulated, with a short list of specialized vessels, such as British freighters  Pacific Egret  or  Pacific Grebe , doing the work. Nuclear material must also be stored in highly secured containers.

The use of a ship not specialized in the transport of nuclear fuel shows limited options available to Russia “as there are ships that carry out this type of loading in Europe, for example,” explains Hervé Baudu, Chief Professor of Maritime Education at the French Maritime Academy (ENSM)

“This is clearly a case where Russia is proceeding in its own waters and territories with the means at its disposal. Admittedly, the ship does not comply with international requirements, but let’s hope that the containers carrying the waste or fuel do,” he continues.

Based on the type deficiencies and where they were registered the ship is “not used to international customs and regulations,” explains Baudu.

Risks related to time of year

The vessel’s lower Arc4 ice-class is also a cause for concern, with Enge calling it “not so reassuring.”

“To operate on the NSR at this time of year involves a risk. In October, the ice conditions can change fast, with new ice formation and strong wind and various temperatures the ice cover can move fast.”

“It seems that the authorities are willing to carry out voyages ‘at any cost’.” Hervé Baudu, Chief Professor of Maritime Education at the French Maritime Academy

Given the possibility of rapidly changing conditions, including weather and ice conditions, “the risk for dangerous cargo transport with not well-equipped ships is unacceptable,” concludes Sigurd.

This holds especially true given Russia’s history related to the dumping of radioactive materials and sunken submarines across the Arctic in the Barents and the Kara Sea.

Pushing ahead despite sanctions

The shipment of nuclear fuel  follows the initial transport of crude oil to China across the Arctic  on aging non-ice class oil tankers a few weeks ago.

“We are seeing violations of environmental rights with oil tankers from a fleet that is black and potentially dangerous as long as there is war in Ukraine,” elaborates Baudu.

Enge concurs that sanctions have impacted operations on the NSR.

“The need to use the route for transport eastward makes the government more willing to push the limits for safety and “clean and safe operations in general. It seems that the authorities are willing to carry out voyages ‘at any cost’.”

Rosatom and TVEL did not respond to requests for comment.

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Russia Sends Nuclear Fuel Across Arctic on Ship with History of Safety Violations

Weeks after sending crude oil on non-ice class tankers through the Arctic, Russian authorities shipped nuclear fuel across the Northern Sea Route on a cargo ship not specialized in the transport of nuclear fuel. Ship records also show a host of safety deficiencies during past inspections. The nuclear fuel traveled from Murmansk to Pevek to resupply the floating nuclear power plant Akademik Lomonosov.

Norsk versjon

Five years after towing the world’s only floating nuclear power plant into the Arctic, Russia’s State Nuclear Energy Corporation, Rosatom, delivered a fresh batch of nuclear fuel to the facility.

The nuclear material traveled along the Northern Sea Route (NSR) from Murmansk to Pevek aboard the cargo ship Smp Arkhangelsk . 

Ship records indicate that the vessel has a long history of safety violations and deficiencies recorded during inspections over the last decade. The vessel’s owner, Northern Shipping Company, has also been under sanctions by the US since May 2022. 

The transport of nuclear fuel customarily occurs on highly specialized vessels under strict international guidelines. The carrying of nuclear fuel on a conventional cargo ship across the Arctic’s icy waters is a cause for concern, according to industry experts interviewed by HNN. 

The nuclear fuel was manufactured by Rosatom fuel company “TVEL” in Elektrostal near Moscow before it was dispatched aboard Smp Arkhangelsk from Murmansk on September 15. The vessel arrived in Pevek 10 days later and took up position next to Akademik Lomonosov.

Based on satellite images analyzed by HNN the transfer of fuel took approximately 10 days.

A history of deficiencies

The vessel, constructed in 2002 by Damen Shipyard in Romania, has passed through the hands of seven different owners before arriving with its current operator, Northern Shipping Company. 

Port inspections going back more than a decade reveal violations ranging from missing voyage data recorder, lack of rescue boats and defect fire pumps, to inoperative auxiliary engines and MARPOL pollution prevention violations. 

While some of the violations were minor and none were severe enough to necessitate the detention of the vessel, they do paint a picture of an aging ship with ongoing deficiencies. Available public records also do not show any inspections since 2021.

“Considering this a voyage with dangerous cargo, it is pushing the limits,” explains Sigurd Enge, Senior Advisor on Shipping at Bellona Foundation, an international environmental NGO headquartered in Oslo, Norway.

“The risk connected to this vessel, on the Northern Sea Route in October is high, and based on their [safety inspection] track record, is very high,” continues Enge, who is one of the most experienced advisers at Bellona, working on marine safety.

“The Port State Controls with violation indicates that there is a high risk that an incident can occur. And with a history of lack of safety equipment, inadequate propulsion and auxiliary machinery, certificates and fire pumps, an incident can quickly turn into a serious event in terms of firefighting, safety equipment and skills.”

Not following international customs

The transport of nuclear materials in international waters is highly regulated, with a short list of specialized vessels, such as British freighters Pacific Egret or Pacific Grebe , doing the work. Nuclear material must also be stored in highly secured containers. 

The use of a ship not specialized in the transport of nuclear fuel shows limited options available to Russia “as there are ships that carry out this type of loading in Europe, for example,” explains Hervé Baudu, Chief Professor of Maritime Education at the French Maritime Academy (ENSM)

“This is clearly a case where Russia is proceeding in its own waters and territories with the means at its disposal. Admittedly, the ship does not comply with international requirements, but let's hope that the containers carrying the waste or fuel do,” he continues.

Based on the type deficiencies and where they were registered the ship is “not used to international customs and regulations,” explains Baudu. 

Risks related to time of year

The vessel’s lower Arc4 ice-class is also a cause for concern, with Enge calling it “not so reassuring.”

“To operate on the NSR at this time of year involves a risk. In October, the ice conditions can change fast, with new ice formation and strong wind and various temperatures the ice cover can move fast.”

It seems that the authorities are willing to carry out voyages ‘at any cost’. Hervé Baudu, Chief Professor of Maritime Education at the French Maritime Academy

Given the possibility of rapidly changing conditions, including weather and ice conditions, “the risk for dangerous cargo transport with not well-equipped ships is unacceptable,” concludes Sigurd. 

This holds especially true given Russia’s history related to the dumping of radioactive materials and sunken submarines across the Arctic in the Barents and the Kara Sea. 

Pushing ahead despite sanctions

The shipment of nuclear fuel follows the initial transport of crude oil to China across the Arctic on aging non-ice class oil tankers a few weeks ago.

“We are seeing violations of environmental rights with oil tankers from a fleet that is black and potentially dangerous as long as there is war in Ukraine,” elaborates Baudu. 

Enge concurs that sanctions have impacted operations on the NSR.

“The need to use the route for transport eastward makes the government more willing to push the limits for safety and “clean and safe operations in general. It seems that the authorities are willing to carry out voyages ‘at any cost’.”

Rosatom and TVEL did not respond to requests for comment.

Russia Sends Oil Tanker Without Ice Protection Through Arctic For First Time

Putin Green-lights Novatek’s Massive Murmansk LNG Project

• nuclear fuel
• Nuclear waste
• Akademik Lomonosov
• Northern Sea Route

Rearmament Without Debate

Call for help from longyearbyen to the government: “decide what you want with svalbard”, the eu enters into new era of cooperation with the faroe islands and greenland, putin asks fsb for help to avoid western sanctions as rosneft begins construction on vostok oil pier, the norwegian government to strengthen its armed forces along the coast, the russian northern fleet: new acting commander and several new submarines, searching for a high north hero.