fiberglass sailboat restoration

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How to Restore a Fiberglass Boat: Fiberglass Boat Restoration Tips

By: B.J. Porter Editor

Classic old boats have a lot of beauty under those dull, oxidized finishes, and with some effort, you can bring some shine back to the classic lines of that tired-looking but classic fiberglass boat. It’s hard work, but the results can be spectacular. Here are some of our top boat restoration tips.

Oxidation is Your Enemy

Gelcoat is the layer of resin on the outside of your boat that holds the color and protects the fiberglass underneath from the elements. It has no stiffening strength, but it takes a beautiful shine when polished. But it’s not impervious, and sunlight and salt water can wear it and age it.

That chalky white stuff clouding your older boat’s finish is oxidation , the long-term result of gelcoat aging in the sun without regular washing and waxing . A boat gets its beauty and shines from the gelcoat layer over the structural fiberglass, but age, neglect, and exposure to the elements lead to discoloration and loss of shine. To bring back a boat’s glossy finish, you polish away the oxidized layer and put a new finish on the gelcoat.

You might also be interested in: Pontoon Boat Covers: Which is Best for You?

Fiberglass Boat Restoration Tips

There are several steps to restore cloudy, oxidized fiberglass to bring the color back to your boat. You need to clean the hull, polish out the faded surface, then protect it all once you’ve brought back the shine. How you approach each step depends on just how much oxidation you have on the gelcoat.

Always wear protective clothing, gloves, and eyewear throughout the entire process. Almost all the detergents, solvents, and compounds used can irritate your skin or hurt your eyes.

Clean, de-grease, and de-wax the Hull

From stem to stern, clean the hull with quality boat soap, and remove all surface dirt or debris. Scrub well, and leave nothing on the surface. You’re going to be rubbing and polishing the hull, and you don’t want to grind dirt and grit into the surface.

To ensure there’s no grease or wax on the hull after you’ve scrubbed the hull with detergent, clean the hull again with MEK or acetone and clean the rags. Fold and turn your rags to keep working with clean spots.

Remove stains

Clean as many surface stains off the boat. Tougher water and rust stains may not come off with a scrub brush and soap, so you may need a special cleaner. Take care to follow the instructions carefully and wear protective gear as directed, most of these special cleaners use harsh chemicals or acids. Rinse all heavy-duty cleaners off with plenty of fresh water when you’re finished.

If you can’t get the worst stains out, buffing may still get them off, but it’s best to clean them first.

Buff with Rubbing Compound to Remove Oxidized Gelcoat

Rubbing or “cutting” compound is a liquid with abrasives suspended in it that can remove surface layers of oxidized gelcoat. To buff your boat, start with a small section of the hull and buff by hand or with a polisher. Work in small sections of about two feet square, and don’t let the compound dry on the hull.

For smaller boats, you can buff by hand, but for larger and heavily oxidized boats a high-speed buffer with a soft buffing pad is recommended. As you buff each section of the boat, follow the instructions on the compounding liquid about application and removal.

Always keep an electric buffer moving, and don’t press too hard in any one spot or you may damage the gelcoat. The goal is to remove as little material as possible while removing the oxidized layer.

If the rubbing compound isn’t taking the oxidation off, you may need to wet sand. Wet sanding with 1200-grit paper is more aggressive than rubbing compound but may be necessary. You can also try multiple passes with the polisher and rubbing compound.

Polish and Shine

Boat polish differs from rubbing compounds in the grit of the abrasives. It’s much finer and will remove any fine surface scratches from wet sanding or compound rubbing to leave a bright, shiny finish.

The process is like buffing with the compound – work in small patches and don’t let the compound dry, working your way around to polish the entire hulk.

Apply Wax to Protect the Hull

The last step to preserve your hard work and keep the boat shiny longer is a good application of wax. Wax is best applied on cooler, overcast days, to slow drying and give you more time to buff. Apply wax to a small section of the boat, and buff it off as per the instructions.

NOTE: You can often find one-step “polish and wax” products. If you’re already compounded the hull and are ready to polish, this can be a time saver, cutting out one step.

The Right Tools for Restoring Your Fiberglass Boat

You’ll need a fair amount of tools, rags, and chemicals to restore your boat, so plan and make sure you’ve got what you need before you start.

To do the job right, you’ll need to include:

• Rotary buffer or polisher
• Buffing pads
• Lots of clean rags
• Boat soap or detergent
• Boat brush.
• Stain removers (as needed for rust, water, and other stains)
• Rubbing and finishing compound
• Protective gear – gloves, coveralls, eye protection, as needed.
• MEK, acetone, or another degreaser.
• Hose, source of water, bucket, and sponge.

Choosing Buffers and Polishers

Buffers come in several types – random orbital, rotary, and high speed. And cordless and corded.

Random orbital buffers and polishers use an offset rotor to move the buffing pad in random back-and-forth motions, versus a straight, rotary motion. Random orbital polishers are good for wax jobs or light polishing. But they don’t spin quickly; only a high-speed rotary polisher will have enough speed to build the heat you need to get the oxidation off your boat. If you have a serious restoration to do, you will need a high-speed rotary polisher.

Whether or not to get a corded polisher is a matter of budget and preference. Corded units are cheaper and never run out of power, but cordless tools let you work without a plug. Neither one will survive a drop in the water well, so secure them with a lanyard.

No matter which you use, never stop the buffer in one place on the boat, as you can mark the hull and damage the gelcoat.

If you also wanna prepare your boat for winter, take a look at this post: A Guide to Winterizing Your Pontoon Boat

Picking Compounds and Waxes for Polishing

There are dozens of rubbing, polishing, and “cutting” compounds on the market. Unfortunately, they’re rarely labeled by specific characteristics like grittiness or what sort of liquid it is. Rather, they’re labeled with words like “quick,” “fast,” “heavy,” and so on.

For strongly oxidized hulls, you want the coarsest cutting compound you can get that won’t damage the gelcoat or leave visible scratches you’ll have to buff out. If you can’t tell the coarseness from the labeling, check the manufacturer’s website for more detail.

Almost all of them are hazardous and can irritate the eyes and skin.

Waxes range from pure wax pastes to easy on/off liquids and combined polish/wax products. Most of the easy application products work well, and you may save some work with a polish/wax combination.

• How to Paint The Bottom of a Boat

Frequently Asked Questions

If you do it yourself, you can expect to spend several hundred dollars for the initial equipment and supplies. A quality variable speed rotary polisher costs $100 to $300. Buffing pads are $20-$30 each, and you'll need several, though some can be cleaned and reused. Rubbing compound costs from $20 to $60 per quart. How much you need depends on the size of your boat and how oxidized the hull is. Additional materials like rags, stain removers, protective gear, and degreasers add another $100-$150 to the job. If you hire someone to do it for you, expect a price range of from $25.00 to $75.00 per foot for a complete de-oxidation/restoration.

Yes, gelcoat can be reapplied to a hull, but it is not cheap or easy. If there is too much damage or crazing in the gelcoat to buff smooth and clean, then a new gelcoat layer may be the best way to restore the boat. The old gelcoat needs to be fully sanded until faired down and smooth, then a new gelcoat can be applied.

Rubbing with an abrasive compound will remove the surface layer of oxidized gelcoat from a hull. Some chemicals may remove a small amount of oxidation, but rubbing is the best way to remove heavy buildup.

Regular washing after use and periodic waxing of your boat will prevent oxidation.

Only if the rubbing compound isn't cutting through the oxidation. It's nothing to be afraid of, but it's an aggressive technique which you should only use if nothing else works.

Some "boat restorers" coat your boat with a shiny polymer coat, quickly bringing back shine to a dull surface. But they don't remove oxidation. An oxidized hull won't look good through a shiny layer of polymer, and the polymer will need to be removed before proper restoration can be done, so they're best not used on heavily oxidized boats.

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Repairing Fiberglass On Boats (Complete Beginner’s Guide)

Fiberglass boats are arguably the best kind of boats you can own.  They’re lightweight, fun to use, and easy to maintain.

They’re even easy to repair, and in this post on repairing fiberglass boats, we’ll tell you exactly how to do just that.

Let’s get started!

Table of Contents

Fiberglass Basics You Should Know

Fiberglass is a wonderful material that can be used to repair all sorts of things.

Learn how to work with fiberglass, and you can repair boats, vehicles, bathtubs, and many other items.

You can even learn to create your own parts, canoes, and even coolers.  An entire lifetime could be spent learning how to build and repair things using fiberglass.

But first, you need to know how fiberglass works as well as what it is.  Fiberglass by itself is just a sheet of glass fibers woven or matted together.  By itself, it is not hard, waterproof, or useful for anything.

However, once you apply a chemical resin to the fiberglass, it becomes waterproof, hard, and incredibly durable.  It also remains lightweight, which makes it great for applications such as aircraft, automobiles, and boating.

The type of resin you use, the type of fiberglass you use, and the core material you use will determine just how hard and durable the constructed fiberglass becomes.

Types of Fiberglass Cloth

There are many different types of fiberglass cloths out on the market today.

Some of these cloths include chopped strand mat, biaxial mat cloth, woven roving cloth, continuous roving cloth, carbon fiber cloths, and the list goes on and on.

This being said, there are two types of fiberglass cloths that you’ll be working with:

• Fiberglass fabrics, or cloths
• Fiberglass mat.

The fiberglass fabrics will be your main structural material, but you may end up using a fiberglass mat to help you work around turns and to help waterproof low-stress areas like the live wells.

With these fabrics, you’ll also have different weights.

These weights will help determine how thick and strong the material is.  Popular boating fabric weights are 10 ounces, 6 ounces, 4 ounces, and 1.5-ounce cloths.  These fabrics are sold by the yard and generally come in widths between three and five feet.

The type of fiberglass fabric you choose will be determined by the application you’re using it for.

Also, lighter cloths can be applied in multiple layers, so if you need more reinforcement, you can always combine a 4-ounce cloth and a 6-ounce cloth in two different layers to provide the thickness and strength of a similar 10-ounce cloth.

Types of Resin

There are a lot of different resins out on the market these days, but the two you’ll most likely be working with are either epoxy resin or polyester resin.  Epoxy resin is more expensive than polyester resin, but it is often considered stronger.  It is also more versatile as the epoxy resin will bond well over polyester resin, but polyester resin may not work well over an epoxy.

This being said, different epoxy materials will work better with different core materials.

For example, the polyester resin will melt some foams and plastics.  I found this out the hard way when I mixed some epoxy resin up in a plastic cup.  The resin started leaking right through the bottom of the cup, and I was very thankful that I had decided to play with the fiberglass outside.

Some other types of resin you might run into are polyurethane resin and silicone resin.  These resins are even more expensive than epoxy resin, and it doesn’t really make sense to use them for boat repairs anyway.

Core Materials

The core material is just the material that is encapsulated by the fiberglass cloth and resin.  Core material on boats is usually balsam wood or a foam core.  However, almost any material can become a core material.

For example, I’ve applied several different types of fabric with polyester resin over the top of pieces of cardboard.  The fiberglass and resin are so strong that it turns the cardboard into a hard shell that you can use to make many different things, including small boats.

If you ever need to do a small one-off project that does not require structural support, think about using cardboard as a cheap and easy alternative to creating a mold or using traditional core material.

This being said, your best bet is to use a core material that is meant for your particular application.  For obvious reasons, being out on the water in a damaged balsa wood and fiberglass boat is a whole lot safer than being out there in a damaged cardboard boat.

Also, keep in mind that you don’t always need a core material.  Sometimes you can create a mold that simply holds the fiberglass and resin together until they dry and become components themselves.  Many fiberglass hulls are built using molds that consist of a thick layer of fiberglass and resin, and they are designed to be very strong with many layers of built-up woven fabrics and mats with no core material.

Camper shells are also built this way without any core material.  If you’re curious about what this looks like, just do a quick search for fiberglass campers on this website, and you’ll see plenty of examples.

When you’re doing repairs on an existing fiberglass boat, you may not be using any core material either.

This is especially true if you’re just repairing a crack or hole in a non-load-bearing area.  In this case, you’ll just be applying cloth over the crack and sealing it with resin.

How Is The Fiberglass Applied?

There are a few different ways that fiberglass can be applied.

• Roll it on with a paint roller
• Paint it on with a brush
• Spray it on with a spray gun.

When doing fiberglass boat repairs, you’ll most likely be painting or rolling it on in small batches. 

The way you’ll do this is you’ll mix up a small amount of resin that you can successfully paint on over the fiberglass within about 15 to 20 minutes.  This is about how much time you’ll have before the resin begins to dry and harden.  If you mix too much resin, you’ll end up wasting it, so it’s important to start small until you get a feel for working with it.

Also, keep in mind that all of your fiberglass should be laid out over the area you’re repairing before you begin mixing your resin.

Once your resin becomes active, you won’t have time to go back and cut out pieces of fiberglass.

General Tips for Working with Fiberglass

As we alluded to earlier, fiberglass must be mixed before it can become active.  This is usually done with a hardener.  The manufacturer will tell you just how much hardener needs to be added to the resin.

Gel coats can also be added to the resin, but this shouldn’t be done until you are on your final layer.

If you apply the gel coat too early, you’ll end up having to sand the layer down before you can add any additional layers.

Also, keep in mind that fiberglass resins are meant to be used at different ambient temperatures.  If the temperatures are too high or too cold, the resin will not cure properly.

You’ll know the resin didn’t cure correctly if the fiberglass feels tacky afterward.

Safety Tips for Working with Fiberglass

Fiberglass resins and hardeners can be toxic, and it’s important to keep them off of your body and out of your lungs.

Personally, I only work with fiberglass outside, but any well-ventilated area will do.

Also, if you’re working with polyester resin, you’ll want to wear a respirator.  Not only is polyester resin toxic to breathe, but it smells awful.  The smell is so bad that I won’t even leave the closed bottle of polyester resin inside my house for fear that it will make the house smell bad.

You don’t want to get resin on your skin or your eyes either.  Wear protective clothing, gloves, and safety glasses to prevent this from happening.

For additional protection, you can also get a lotion that will work to coat your hands.  This way, if the resin gets through your gloves, you’ll have an extra layer of protection between the resin and your skin.  If the resin does end up getting on your skin, be sure to wash it off immediately. 

People have been known to develop allergies to epoxy resin, and once you get this allergy, you’ll never be able to be around epoxy resin again.

Fiberglass Buying Tips

• Always buy fiberglass by the roll. Unfortunately, many people will try to sell you folded pieces of fiberglass because it is cheaper and easier to pack, ship, and store it this way.  Sadly, folding fiberglass cloth can weaken the strands, so when you buy fiberglass that is folded, you’re buying cloth that is already damaged.
• Buy the hardener with the resin. It’s always easier just to buy the hardener and gel coats with the resin.  Different resins will need different amounts of hardener, and the manufacturer will usually sell the two as a kit.
• Get good mixing cups. A poorly mixed resin will not work properly.  Get good mixing cups so that you can accurately mix the resin and get the most benefit from it.
• Buy it locally (at first). A local marine store owner can often offer you valuable tips for working with fiberglass, and they can help tell you where you went wrong when you run into trouble.  You’ll probably end up paying a bit more for your resin, but you’ll often end up with some good and free advice.
• Buy the right fiberglass for the job. When you go to buy fiberglass, you’ll notice right away that chop strand mat is dramatically cheaper than all of the other types of fiberglass.  There is a reason for this.  Fiberglass mat is not very strong, and it can be difficult to work with.  Only use fiberglass mat when the job specifically calls for it.  Resins are expensive, so there isn’t any point applying them over inferior fiberglass cloths.

Repairing The Hull

Before you decide to repair your own boat hull, you may want to do a reality check.

Is the boat hull severely damaged?  Is your boat an ocean vessel that is going to be put under a lot of stress?

If you answered yes to these questions, you might want to save this project until you have a lot more experience with fiberglass repair.  In this situation, a bad repair job could put your life in jeopardy, so the money you save will never be worth it.

This being said, there are a lot of small hull repairs that you could tackle yourself without much risk.  For example, a small hole in a small boat that you only take out on the lake shouldn’t be too much for you to handle.  Small cracks or holes in the areas above the water line might not be a big deal either, but please use your best judgment.

Repairing Holes in The Hull

To repair a hole in the hull, you may need to get some new core material.  Try to match the new core material with the existing core material.  Make sure the remaining core material is dry.

Once you have the core material, you’ll need to fit it into the hole.  Next, measure and cut your fiberglass cloth.  Lay the fiberglass over the area, using fiberglass tape if you have to.  Once everything is in place, mix up your resin and apply it over the damaged area.  You may need to do multiple layers.

For professional repairs of ocean-going hulls, the surrounding fiberglass is ground back on a slope of 1:12 to make a large area to be repaired; a 1/2″ thick fiberglass structure would be ground back 6″ in every direction from the hole.

The patch is then built-up with increasingly larger pieces of fiberglass mat and resin.  Again, you need experience before trying this.

Your final coat should be a gel coat that matches the color of your boat.

Alternatively, you could repaint the boat after the repairs have been made.

Repairing Cracks

Be careful when repairing cracks in your hull, as they could be a sign of bigger structural issues.

For example, a balsa boat with cracks in it could have rotten wood inside the hull.

However, if you just see some cracks from when you accidentally backed into a tree last week, feel free to try to take on the repairs yourself.  You probably won’t need any new core material, but you will need some fiberglass and some resin to patch up the crack.

Measure, cut, and layup your fiberglass before mixing your resin, and you shouldn’t have any trouble with the repair.

One thought to keep in mind with a repair like this is that you’ll probably spend more time sanding and painting than you will be doing the actual repairs.  The more time you spend sanding, the better the boat will look when you’re done.

Repairing The Floor and Deck

The first thing you should do before making any repairs to the deck or the floors is to check to see how severe the damage is.

Often-times, decks and floors are made from wood, and if they are spongy or have holes in them, the wood is probably rotten underneath.

Before making any repairs to the fiberglass, you’ll need to take out this rotten wood and replace it.  What seems like a small repair, in the beginning, can often end up being an extensive repair.  If you don’t believe me, just look at all the free “project boats” listed on Craigslist.

Oftentimes you’ll see that the person giving it away received the boat for free himself, thinking that he could do the repairs and get a free boat.

Once he started to tear the boat apart, he realized just how much work and money would be needed and decided to give up on it.

Once you do know what you’re in for, start replacing the decking and flooring, making sure to keep the materials dry until they are encapsulated with new fiberglass and resin.  Also, be sure to make a note of where the different pieces of hardware are connected to the deck, as you’ll need to put them back on when your repairs are complete.

If you’re careful, you can use the old decking that you pull off the boat as a template for creating your new decking.

Once your new flooring is complete, secure it to the boat and begin placing the fiberglass cloth over it.  Be sure to use a good amount of fiberglass as the decking will need to be strong enough to support people walking over it.  Mix up your resin and apply it in small batches.

If you have a large area to do, you’ll be tempted to make larger batches but don’t do this as you’ll only end up rushing the job or finding the resin sets up prematurely.

Flooring Alternatives

Another thought to keep in mind is that you don’t always need to replace your wood flooring with wood.  Some people will skip the fiberglass altogether and simply install an aluminum floor instead.

This can be useful in certain applications but not very useful in others, so you’ll need to analyze your particular situation before you decide to make any changes.

If you do decide to skip the fiberglass, just be careful to find out what changes this will have on the weight of your boat.  Making a heavier boat could reduce your boat’s max capacity and affect the way your boat sits in the water.

Repairing The Keel

The keel is an integral part of a boat.  On a sailboat, the keel keeps the boat upright in the water and helps to keep it stable in heavy winds.

Being at the bottom of the boat leaves it much more vulnerable to scraping the ground and running into rocks.  For this reason, a keel can often take damage even when the rest of the boat remains trouble-free.

The question is, do you want to repair this damage to the keel yourself?  

If you have a small recreational boat that you can easily bring up on land, I’d say go for it.  You can flip the boat over in your backyard and spend as much time as you need applying a new resin and gel coat to the keel.

For boats that you know will be scraping the bottom again, you may want to apply a keel guard as well.  This will help protect your keel, so you don’t have to constantly make repairs each season.

Repairing The Transom

A solid transom will ensure that your boat’s engine doesn’t fall into the water.  If you’re going to make this repair yourself, make sure you’re prepared to do it properly.

Oftentimes the core of the transom needs to be replaced, and you’ll want to make sure you replace it with a material that is as strong or even stronger than the original.  This is especially true if you’ve upgraded the original boat engine to something bigger and heavier.

Once you’ve replaced the core material, the steps for making the repair remain the same.

Apply your fiberglass boat cloth and use as many coats of resin as you need to get the job done.

This repair includes a lot of hard edges, so you may need to overlap your layers of fiberglass at the top to get a good seal.  Take your time and make sure the fiberglass wraps properly, or you’ll end up having to do a lot of sanding at the end of the job.  Also, be careful to account for where the engine will be mounted so that you can match the hardware appropriately.

Repairing Hatches

Hatches are easy repairs, and they’re great for getting started with fiberglass.

When replacing a hatch, use the existing hatch to make a template for the new one.

The new hatch should be easy to make, and you won’t have to use a lot of thick fiberglass cloth since it won’t be the main structure of the boat.

The main thing to keep in mind when doing this repair is that the hatch will need to be sealed properly afterward.  Oftentimes, people will do a great job repairing or replacing the fiberglass hatch, but they won’t seal it properly afterward, and they end with a leaky hatch.

Repairing Scratches

Scratches in the fiberglass usually don’t require extensive repairs, and the cost is usually minimal.

The reason for this is that the fiberglass does not need to be replaced, and the core material is not yet affected.

Unfortunately, some deep scratches in the gel coat can end up creating a lot of prep work.  You’ll end up needing to do a lot of sanding to get the boat to look new again.

You’ll also need to do a good job matching the color.

If your boat is new, this may not be a problem, but if your boat has been out in the sun for a while, you won’t be able to use the original boat color as it will end up being too dark.

You’ll have to color match the boat, or you’ll have to resign yourself to painting the entire boat over again.

DIY Costs vs. Professional Costs

Doing repairs yourself will usually save you money, and they can sometimes even save you on time.

However, some jobs are too big to be done by beginners, and some jobs just take too much time for the DIY repair to be worth it.

I’ll try to give you a breakdown of some of the costs here so you can decide for yourself whether or not the repair is worth paying for or doing yourself.

Example costs from FiberGlassSite.com:

• 6-ounce fiberglass cloth 50” wide and 5 yards long. – $25.00
• 1 gallon of polyester resin with hardener.  – $39.00

With this much cloth and resin, you could do a lot of small repairs of cracks and holes.

A simple hole or crack repair might cost you $50.00 each, so you’d definitely save money on smaller repairs, and you may even have some extra fiberglass left over for the future.

For a balsa core deck repair, you might want ¾ inch core.  This costs about $50.00 for a 2’x4’ piece.  You’ll also need a 10-ounce fiberglass cloth and polyester resin.

This repair might end up costing you a couple of hundred dollars, but it could save you a thousand.

Foam core used for repairing heavy damage to the hull of a sea-going vessel will need to be very strong.  Not only this, but you’ll need to consult with a marine technician to determine what the best combination of foam, resin, and fiberglass should look like.

Between material costs and consulting costs, you’ll end up spending thousands of dollars.  You’ll also end up spending a lot of time, and you may devalue the worth of the boat since a buyer might not feel safe buying a boat that was repaired by an amateur.

In this case, you may be better off paying a professional boat repair company to do your repairs.

Final Thoughts

Working with fiberglass can be tricky, but it can also be a lot of fun.

Learn how to work with fiberglass, and you’ll find an almost endless number of projects to take on.

Just keep in mind that working with fiberglass is not cheap or easy to get into.  If you decide to take on fiberglass projects, be prepared to spend some time and money doing so.

Also, be prepared to mess up a few projects while you’re learning.

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How To Repair a Fiberglass Boat

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Few things are more disheartening to the boat owner than staring at the fuzzy edge of broken fiberglass. However, the repairability of fiberglass is one of its best characteristics. The most horrifying hole in a fiberglass hull is quickly healed with a bit of glass fabric, a supply of resin, and equal parts skill and care. And the repair is less patch than graft — a new piece of skin indistinguishable from the old.

Fiberglass lay-up is nothing more than layers of glass fabric saturated with polyester (or epoxy) resin, yet most boatowners imagine a self-applied repair as only slightly more durable than a wet Band-Aid. This is a false concern. Follow a few simple rules and your lay-up will be just as durable as the rest of the boat.

Cut Away the Damage

Impact damage nearly always results in some associated delamination. Tap the impact area with the end of a plastic screwdriver handle to determine the extent of the damage; solid laminate sounds sharp, delamination dull. Check inside the boat to make sure nothing is in the way, then make a circular or oval cut to remove the damaged area. Never try to save damaged fiberglass; always cut it out and replace it with new laminate. Check all the edges and enlarge the hole if you find any additional delamination.

Working from Inside

If the damage area is small and above the waterline, make the repair from inside the hull, if possible. You are going to bevel the edge of the hole with a 12-to-1 chamfer, so if you repair a 3-inch diameter hole through a 1/2-inch-thick hull from the outside, you end up with about 15 inches (diameter) of surface damage to refinish. Repair it from the inside and you have only a 3-inch hole to refinish.

A second reason to make the repair from the inside is that you can back the hole on the outside with a polished surface, creating a mold that allows you to lay-up the repair the same way the boat was built--gelcoat first. Very little finish work will be required.

Before grinding, always wash the area around the hole thoroughly with a dewaxing solvent. The original fiberglass will have traces of mold release on the outer surface and wax surfactant on the inner surface. If you fail to remove the wax first, grinding will drag it into the bottom of the scratches and weaken the bond.

During the lay-up process, because each layer is applied before the previous one fully cures, each application of resin links chemically with the previous one to form a solid structure--as though all the layers were saturated at once. Unfortunately, no matter how strong the laminate-to-laminate bond, the initial bond of any repair is mechanical, not chemical. Consequently, grinding is the key to getting a strong repair.

Use a disk sander loaded with a 36-grit disk to grind a 12-to-1 bevel around the perimeter of the hole inside. Also grind a rectangular area of the inner surface a few inches beyond the bevel to accommodate a finishing layer of cloth. Protect your eyes with goggles and your lungs with a good dust mask. Long sleeves will reduce skin irritation. Tilt the sander so that only one side of the disk is touching the surface and the dust is thrown away from you. After you brush away the dust and wipe the area with an acetone-dampened rag, the sanded surface should have a uniform dull look.

Mask and Mold

To prevent any resin runs from adhering, give the exterior surface of the skin around the hole a heavy coat of paste wax, taking care not to get any on the edge or inside the hole. Mask the area below the hole.

Cut a scrap of smooth plastic laminate (Formica) or thin clear acrylic (Plexiglas) a foot larger than the hole. Wax this backer, then spritz it with polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) mold release. Screw or tape the backer to the outer surface. If the hull is flat or curving in only one direction in the damage area, the backer will assume the correct curve. If the hull is spherical, i.e. curving in two directions, acrylic screwed to the hull can sometimes be coaxed into the correct shape if warmed with a heat gun (before applying the mold release).

Cut sufficient fiberglass fabric to fit the hole. Unless you have reason to follow a different schedule, begin with two layers of 1 1/2-ounce mat, then alternate mat and 6-ounce cloth. The number of laminates will be determined by the thickness of the hull; you will roughly need one layer for every 1/32 inch. Cut the first layer of mat the full size of the ground depression, then cut subsequent pieces about an inch smaller. This order of largest piece first, then progressively smaller pieces is how you are going to apply the new fabric. We do it this counterintuitive way, particularly with polyester resin, because it maximizes the area of the secondary bond, the adhesion of the new cloth to the old laminate.

Using Polyester or Vinylester Resin

For above-the-waterline repairs you can use either polyester or vinylester resin. Of course, for an even stronger repair you can also use epoxy, but not if the surface of the repair will be gelcoat. (You should use epoxy for underwater repairs.)

If you are doing your repair with polyester or vinylester resin, you need laminating resin. Laminating resin does not fully cure while exposed to air, which allows you to get a chemical bond between the multiple laminates you will be applying. To get the final laminate to cure, you simply seal it from the air, either with a plastic or by coating it with polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) mold release.

The catalyst for both polyester and vinylester resin is methyl ethyl ketone peroxide, or MEKP. Do not confuse MEKP with the common solvent MEK; they are not the same.

Polyester resin usually requires 1 to 2 percent of hardener by volume (follow the manufacturer's instructions). As a rule of thumb, four drops of hardener will catalyze 1 ounce of resin at 1 percent. Be certain to stir the catalyst in thoroughly or part of the resin will be undercured, weakening the lay-up.

You can adjust the cure time by adding more or less catalyst. Temperature, weather, and the thickness of the laminate all affect curing times. Some experimentation is generally required. The mix shouldn't kick (start to harden) in less than 30 minutes. Hardening in about two hours is probably ideal, but overnight is just as good unless the wait will hold you up. Always err on the side of too little catalyst; if you add too much, the resin will "cook," resulting in a weak lamination.

Gelcoat is essentially pigmented polyester resin. Start the repair by spraying or brushing about 20 mils of color-matched gelcoat onto the waxed backer. Check the gelcoat thickness with a toothpick; 1/32 is about 30 mils.

When the gelcoat kicks, wet it with polyester resin and lay-up the first two layers of mat and one layer of cloth, compressing them against the gelcoat and working out all voids and bubbles with a resin roller and/or a squeegee.

Let the first three plies kick, then lay up four additional plies. Never lay up more than four plies at a time or the generated heat may "cook" the resin and weaken it. Continue the lay-up four plies at a time until the repair is flush with the interior surface.

For a finished look, cut a rectangular piece of mat and one slightly larger of cloth and apply these over the patch, smoothing them with a squeegee. Seal this top layer with plastic or PVA to allow a full cure.

Remove the backer from the exterior surface. Fill imperfections in the new gelcoat with gelcoat paste and allow it to cure fully. Clean the area around the patch, then sand, if necessary, and polish the repair area.

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How to repair common fiberglass issues

Maintaining the structural integrity and appearance of your fiberglass boat is crucial for any boat owner. In this guide, we provide step-by-step guidance on how to repair common fiberglass issues, including gelcoat damage, stress cracks, delamination, and osmotic blistering.

How to Repair Common Fiberglass Issues

Fiberglass boats are known for their durability and low maintenance requirements. However, over time, they can develop various issues that need to be addressed to maintain their structural integrity and appearance. In this article, we will discuss some common fiberglass problems and provide step-by-step guidance on how to repair them. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a newcomer to the world of boat restoration, this guide will help you tackle common fiberglass issues with confidence.

Table of Contents

Understanding fiberglass construction, gelcoat damage, stress cracks, delamination, osmotic blistering, repairing gelcoat damage, fixing stress cracks, addressing delamination, treating osmotic blistering.

Before diving into the repair process, it’s essential to understand the basics of fiberglass boat construction. Fiberglass boats are made of layers of woven glass fibers, which are saturated with a resin, typically polyester or epoxy. This combination of materials creates a strong, lightweight, and water-resistant structure.

The outermost layer of a fiberglass boat is the gelcoat, a pigmented resin that provides a smooth, glossy finish and protects the underlying fiberglass from UV rays, water, and other environmental factors. Over time, the gelcoat can become damaged, leading to various issues that need to be addressed.

Common Fiberglass Issues

Gelcoat damage can manifest in several ways, including scratches, chips, and fading. While minor damage may not affect the boat’s structural integrity, it can detract from its appearance and lead to more severe issues if left untreated.

Stress cracks, also known as spider cracks or hairline cracks, are small, shallow cracks that form in the gelcoat due to stress or impact. They typically appear around high-stress areas, such as fittings, corners, and joints. While stress cracks are generally cosmetic, they can allow water to penetrate the underlying fiberglass, leading to more severe problems like delamination.

Delamination occurs when the layers of fiberglass separate from each other or the core material, usually due to water intrusion or poor adhesion during the manufacturing process. This issue can compromise the boat’s structural integrity and lead to more extensive repairs if not addressed promptly.

Osmotic blistering, also known as boat pox, is a common issue in older fiberglass boats. It occurs when water penetrates the gelcoat and reacts with the underlying fiberglass, creating a chemical reaction that forms blisters filled with a corrosive fluid. If left untreated, osmotic blistering can weaken the fiberglass and lead to more severe structural issues.

Repairing gelcoat damage is a relatively straightforward process that can be accomplished with a few basic tools and materials. Here’s a step-by-step guide to fixing minor gelcoat damage:

Clean the damaged area: Begin by thoroughly cleaning the damaged area with soap and water to remove any dirt, grease, or wax. Rinse with clean water and allow the area to dry completely.

Sand the damaged area: Using 220-grit sandpaper, lightly sand the damaged area to remove any loose or damaged gelcoat. Be careful not to sand too deeply, as this can damage the underlying fiberglass.

Apply a gelcoat repair kit: Purchase a gelcoat repair kit that matches your boat’s color. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix the gelcoat and hardener. Apply the mixture to the damaged area using a small brush or applicator, ensuring that it fills any scratches or chips.

Allow the gelcoat to cure: Allow the gelcoat to cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions, typically 24 to 48 hours.

Sand the repaired area: Once the gelcoat has cured, wet-sand the repaired area with 400-grit sandpaper to remove any excess material and blend the repair with the surrounding gelcoat.

Polish the repaired area: Using a rubbing compound and a soft cloth, buff the repaired area to restore its shine. Finish by applying a coat of wax to protect the gelcoat and maintain its appearance.

Repairing stress cracks involves a similar process to repairing gelcoat damage, with a few additional steps to ensure the cracks are properly filled and sealed. Follow these steps to fix stress cracks in your fiberglass boat:

Clean and sand the damaged area: As with gelcoat repair, begin by cleaning and lightly sanding the damaged area.

Widen the cracks: Using a rotary tool or a sharp utility knife, carefully widen the cracks to create a V-shaped groove. This will allow the repair material to penetrate the cracks more effectively.

Fill the cracks with epoxy: Mix a small amount of epoxy resin and hardener according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Using a small brush or applicator, carefully fill the widened cracks with the epoxy mixture.

Apply fiberglass cloth (if necessary): If the stress cracks are deep or extensive, you may need to reinforce the repair with fiberglass cloth. Cut a piece of fiberglass cloth to fit over the cracked area, and apply it to the epoxy-filled cracks using a brush or roller. Ensure that the cloth is fully saturated with epoxy and that there are no air bubbles trapped beneath it.

Allow the epoxy to cure: Allow the epoxy to cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions, typically 24 to 48 hours.

Sand and finish the repaired area: Once the epoxy has cured, sand the repaired area with 220-grit sandpaper to remove any excess material and blend the repair with the surrounding gelcoat. Finish by applying a gelcoat repair kit, as described in the previous section, to restore the boat’s appearance.

Delamination can be a more complex issue to repair, as it often requires removing and replacing large sections of fiberglass. Here’s a general outline of the process for addressing delamination in your fiberglass boat:

Identify the extent of the delamination: Begin by tapping the surface of the boat with a plastic mallet or the handle of a screwdriver. A hollow or dull sound indicates delamination, while a solid sound indicates intact fiberglass.

Remove the damaged fiberglass: Using a rotary tool or a sharp utility knife, carefully cut away the delaminated fiberglass, being careful not to damage the underlying core material.

Dry out the core material: If the core material is wet, allow it to dry completely before proceeding with the repair. This may take several days or even weeks, depending on the extent of the moisture.

Apply epoxy to the core material: Mix a small amount of epoxy resin and hardener according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Using a brush or roller, apply a thin layer of epoxy to the exposed core material.

Replace the fiberglass: Cut a new piece of fiberglass cloth to fit the area where the delaminated fiberglass was removed. Apply the cloth to the epoxy-coated core material, ensuring that it is fully saturated with epoxy and that there are no air bubbles trapped beneath it.

Sand and finish the repaired area: Once the epoxy has cured, sand the repaired area with 220-grit sandpaper to remove any excess material and blend the repair with the surrounding gelcoat. Finish by applying a gelcoat repair kit, as described earlier, to restore the boat’s appearance.

Osmotic blistering can be a time-consuming issue to address, as it often requires stripping the boat’s entire hull down to the bare fiberglass. Here’s an overview of the process for treating osmotic blistering:

Remove the gelcoat: Begin by removing the gelcoat from the affected areas using a gelcoat stripper or by sanding with a coarse-grit sandpaper.

Open and drain the blisters: Using a sharp utility knife, carefully open each blister and allow the corrosive fluid to drain. Rinse the area with clean water to remove any remaining fluid.

Dry out the fiberglass: Allow the fiberglass to dry completely before proceeding with the repair. This may take several weeks or even months, depending on the extent of the blistering and the environmental conditions.

Fill the blisters with epoxy: Mix a small amount of epoxy resin and hardener according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Using a small brush or applicator, carefully fill each blister cavity with the epoxy mixture.

Apply a barrier coat: Once the epoxy has cured, apply a barrier coat to the entire hull to prevent future osmotic blistering. Barrier coats are typically epoxy-based and can be applied with a brush or roller.

Reapply the gelcoat: After the barrier coat has cured, reapply the gelcoat to the hull using a gelcoat repair kit or a spray gun. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing, application, and curing times.

Repairing common fiberglass issues is an essential skill for any boat owner, as it helps maintain the boat’s structural integrity and appearance. By following the steps outlined in this guide, you can confidently tackle gelcoat damage, stress cracks, delamination, and osmotic blistering, ensuring that your boat remains seaworthy and ready for your next sailing adventure.

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Classic Fiberglass Boat Restoration Tips...

Classic fiberglass boat restoration tips.

There is nothing that makes a boat look new like quality fiberglass. If you’re restoring a classic boat, this can do wonders for its appearance. But that means unsightly fiberglass has the unfortunate effect of just the opposite: it ages your boat. To keep your boat looking great, you need to restore fiberglass to its original finish. But fiberglass can be a finicky material. To handle it, you’ll need more than just a few products. Here are a few classic fiberglass boat restoration tips to help you with your project.

While Cleaning, Don’t Use Products that Remove the Gelcoat

If you’re giving your classic fiberglass boat a complete fiberglass restoration, you’ll need to remove the gelcoat so you can work with the fiberglass surface directly. That’s part of the process.

But in the meantime, make sure you buy boat cleaners that won’t harm your fiberglass gelcoat. This gelcoat is there to maintain your fiberglass’s appearance and protect it against everything that your boat faces on a regular basis.

When Your Boat Looks Faded or Worn, It’s Time for a New Gelcoat

Maybe you ignored the previous tip for a long time. In that case, now is a good time for a full fiberglass restoration process that removes and replaces the gelcoat.

In addition to using a detergent to clean off your boat first, consider using an acetone to remove the gelcoat on your fiberglass. Wear strong rubber gloves for this process to protect your hands. After properly applied, your fiberglass will be ready for a new waxing and polishing.

Combine Waxing and Polishing at the Same Time

Our PolyShine product , when combined with LifeWax , will extend the wax protection on your boat’s hull for about three years. That means you won’t have to continually rub new wax into the fiberglass to keep your boat’s hull protected.

When You Expose Fiberglass, Use a Fiberglass Rubbing Compound

Remember to use this before adding a coat of wax to the boat, as this compound is designed to work with the fiberglass directly.

Consider an Electric Buffer

The key to all the classic fiberglass boat restoration tips above? You have to actually get yourself to do them. And doing them all by hand is sometimes an unenviable task, particularly if you’re working with a large boat.

An electric buffer is a great way to make quick work of fiberglass restoration without losing any of the quality. While you browse all our wax and polish products , don’t forget that an electric buffer is just as valuable an investment in the quality of your fiberglass—and ultimately, the quality of your boat.

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How To Repair Fiberglass On A Boat? Beginner’s Guide

If you have a fiberglass boat, chances are it might need repairs at some point due to cracks, gouges, or holes from various causes. Doing fiberglass repairs yourself might seem intimidating initially, but with the proper materials , tools, and techniques, it’s possible.

The guide details everything there is to know on how to repair Fiberglass on a boat. This includes: assessing damage, preparing, applying resin and material, sanding, and finishing.

Follow along with these fiberglass boat repair tips and you’ll have your boat looking good as new in no time.

6. Finish the Repair Area

How to repair fiberglass on a boat.

Here are the main steps to repair fiberglass on a boat:

1. Gather the Recommended Materials and Tools

Before starting any fiberglass repair, you’ll need to gather all the necessary materials and tools. Having everything ready beforehand will make the repair process faster and easier.

Here’s an overview of the basic fiberglass repair supplies you’ll need:

• Fiberglass repair resin ( polyester or epoxy )
• Catalyst (MEKP)
• Fiberglass mat and/or woven fiberglass cloth
• Mixing containers and sticks
• Paint brushes and rollers
• Mixing cups
• Sandpaper (various grits)
• Dust masks and gloves

For tools, basic household items like paint scrapers, scissors, and a heat gun or hair dryer should suffice.

You’ll also need things like stir sticks, painter’s tape, plastic sheeting, and containers to hold all your materials. Having a perfectly smooth, flat work surface is also recommended.

Once you’ve gathered all your fiberglass repair supplies and tools, you can get started fixing that damage on your boat.

2. Prep the Damaged Area

The first step when repairing fiberglass is to thoroughly examine the damaged area so you understand the full scope of repairs needed.

Remove any loose pieces hanging by a thread and use a rag with acetone to clean the area of any contaminants. This helps the repair resin adhere directly to the fiberglass.

If the damage is on a gelcoat surface, Sand and scuff it around the damaged area with 80-120 grit sandpaper, creating a rough surface for the repair resin to grip.

Use acetone to wipe away sanding residue and debris until the surface is thoroughly clean for better resin adhesion.

Finally, tape off the repair zone using painter’s tape to prevent resin seepage. Offer an additional buffer of at least 3 inches with the tape.

Mix your chosen fiberglass resin per the instructions and get ready to wet out the repair fabric.

3. Wet Out the Fiberglass Fabric

With your surface prepped, it’s time to wet out the fiberglass fabric. This refers to saturating the cloth or mat with catalyzed resin. Measure out fiberglass resin per the recommendations on the container, using clean mixing containers and sticks.

Add in the appropriate amount of MEKP catalyst and thoroughly mix it together.

Most small repairs only require a couple of layers of 4 to 6-ounce fiberglass mat or cloth. Align your fabric over the damaged area and use a roller, brush or gloved hands to fully saturate the material with resin.

Work from one side to the other while gently pressing out any air pockets or wrinkles. The mat should darken as it gets thoroughly wet. Add additional coats of fiberglass resin until the fabric is fully saturated if needed.

For unusually large holes and gaps, apply a thicker resin mixture called fiberglass putty before adding mat/cloth layers. Mix it to a peanut butter-like consistency and use a putty knife to completely fill any holes or gaps. This prevents weak spots in the finished repair. Let the putty cure before fiberglassing over it.

Once your fiberglass fabric layers are in place and saturated with resin, it’s time to let the magic happen.

4. Allow Proper Curing Time

Don’t rush the repair; proper curing is crucial for strong fiberglass.

In most cases, you’ll need to allow a minimum of 24 hours for the new fiberglass and resin to fully harden and cure.

Cooler temperatures generally necessitate longer cure times, so check your resin’s label.

Use a heat gun, fan, or hair dryer to gently apply heat as specified to accelerate curing if desired. But avoid overheating as that can also negatively impact curing.

Once cured, the new fiberglass patch should be hard, glossy, and well-bonded to the prepared surface.

If any stickiness or soft spots remain after a full 24-hour ambient temperature cure, allow additional time before sanding or finishing. Rushing this step can undermine the integrity of your completed fiberglass boat repair.

5. Sand and Shape the Repair

With your boat fiberglass repair fully cured, it’s time to blend and smooth the area so it integrates seamlessly with the surrounding hull or deck gelcoat. This requires sanding the cured patch down flush with the existing fiberglass surface.

We recommend starting with 80 to 120-grit sandpaper to remove the majority of excess material. Move up to 220 and 400 grit when getting close to flush to prevent sanding too aggressively.

When shaping repairs along curved surfaces like hull sides, use a sanding block that matches the curved contour.

Take your time and sand evenly across the repair zone until no ridges or holes exist. Blow off dust and debris periodically so you can accurately judge smoothness.

Use painter’s tape with light pencil hatch marks to also check for flatness across repairs on flat deck surfaces. Blend and taper the edges so no hard transitions between the patch and the original fiberglass exist.

For small pinhole flaws, air pockets or minor craters in the cured fiberglass patch, apply a thin skim coat of resin once initial sanding is complete. Let it cure fully, then do the final sanding for a flawless finish.

At this point, the structural fiberglass repair is complete and smooth, but the visual appearance may still look a bit rough. To restore the nice uniform sheen of the surrounding gelcoat, you need to properly finish the repair area.

Clean and dry the area after sanding, then apply multiple coats of matching gelcoat repair resin for a smooth, glossy finish. Allow each coat to cure properly.

Once the visual appearance matches the surrounding area, you may choose to wax and buff out the repair zone to restore any lost luster from the sanding/repair work.

If needed, very fine sanding with a high-grit paper pre-wax can help remove small imperfections. Use a dual-action polisher and fiberglass wax for best results.

Also, to prevent future damage to your boat, Fiberglass Warehouse recommends covering when not in use, cleaning regularly with mild detergents, waxing often, caulking holes around hardware, and following manufacturer’s guidelines.

Repairing a Fiberglass Boat Hull from the outside

Here are some steps to follow to repair your fiberglass boat hull from the outside:

• Determine the extent of damage to the fiberglass boat hull before starting repairs.
• Prepare the damaged area by cleaning it thoroughly and removing any loose fiberglass fragments.
• Apply a layer of fiberglass cloth and resin to reinforce the damaged area, ensuring proper adhesion.
• Smooth out the repaired area using sandpaper once the resin has cured.
• Apply a gel coat to the repaired area to provide a protective and aesthetic finish.
• Allow sufficient time for the repairs to fully cure before launching the boat back into the water.

==>> Read more about repairing a fiberglass boat hull from the outside here!

Deck Repair

Here is an overview of how to repair the deck of your fiberglass boat.

• Before starting, take off seats, bolts, and other parts from the deck, and keep them organized.
• You might need to cut to see the damage clearly, so cut carefully and smaller than you think.
• Fixing involves cleaning, swapping out damaged parts, covering with fiberglass, sanding, smoothing, and adding a protective layer.
• Being careful, patient, and looking after your boat regularly is key to making sure it stays in good shape and safe to use.

Read my more detailed guide about fiberglass boat deck repair here .

Final Thoughts

With some care and effort, and following this fiberglass boat repair guide, you now have the knowledge needed to tackle common fiberglass repairs on your boat yourself.

While the process involves some key steps – like ensuring the area is prepped, the resin is catalyzed properly, cure times are adhered to, and final sanding/finishing is done carefully – repairing fiberglass damage is very achievable for most do-it-yourselfers (DIY).

So now that you know the complete process of how to repair fiberglass on a boat, grab your materials and tools and get busy fixing your fiberglass woes.

Here’s hoping your next fiberglass boat repairs are quick and painless and get your watercraft back to looking and working like new again.

If you have tools to fix your boat but don’t know how to use them, check out my article on how to use Fiberglass repair kits here .

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How To Fix Small Holes In A Fiberglass Boat? 6 Easy Steps

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How to Repair Boat Fiberglass

Did you know you can repair holes in the hull or deck of your fiberglass boat? To make these strong and to near cosmetic perfection, visit a shop that specializes in boat fiberglass and gelcoat repair. A DIY enthusiast can also achieve good results with fiberglass and gelcoat repair. Learn the techniques and materials that are used to get the best results.

A hole in the side of this Boat was permanently repaired to cosmetic perfection by choosing the right fiberglass materials and applying the proper repair techniques.

What is Fiberglass and What Gives Fiberglass Strength?

Fiberglass is from two components: resin and fiber. It is called fiberglass because the structural fiber used is actually woven with tiny flexible strands of glass. The fiber is then saturated with resin, stretched into place, and when it cures through a chemical reaction, the result is a hard and durable material. The strength of the fiberglass largely depends on the weight of the structural fabric that is used. There are different weave patterns to the fabric that render it useful for different applications. The resin component is either polyester resin or epoxy resin. Epoxy resin is stronger. If the repair area is large and is in a high-stress part of a boat below the waterline, epoxy resin is the superior choice. This is because it has excellent bonding properties to an existing surface and is strong.  Polyester resin is commonly used. However, one drawback is that it shrinks as it cures and thereby diminishes its adhesive qualities. This shrinkage is insignificant in small repairs, even in high-stress areas. But because of the shrinkage and reduced adhesion, there are limitations to using polyester resin for large repairs in high-stress areas. However, outside of large structural repairs, polyester resin is the material of choice and is used in the bulk of fiberglass repairs.

For small fiberglass repairs, polyester resin is used in combination with mat or chopped cloth mixed in resin to make a sturdy repair.

Fiber Choices For Fiberglass Repair

The most common type of fabric is plain weave cloth. It is easily recognized as it is woven at 90 degrees, and it looks like cloth. It comes in different weights, and a thicker cloth is stronger. One limitation of plain weave cloth is that it doesn’t conform to complex shapes or curves. It’s best applied on an even plane. For complex shapes and compound curves that require strength, the best fabric is modified twill. Its weave appears to be diagonal, but in reality, it is also woven at 90 degrees and is a looser weave with flexibility. It can conform to complex shapes without wrinkling. The most flexible fabric is called a mat. It has hair-like strands going in every direction. Mat is bonded with glue that dissolves in polyester resin, enabling it to conform easily to complex shapes or compound curves. However, it has less strength and is often used in cosmetic applications unless built up in many layers. Lastly is a fabric called roving. This is a fabric that has course bundles of strands in its weave. It is a very heavy fabric for the strongest of applications. It will be used in combination with layers of mat to give a smooth final surface.

Structural fiberglass cloth and cosmetic mat are used in combination with resin to make a strong fiberglass repair.

Repairing a Hole With Fiberglass 

When repairing a hole with fiberglass, repairs are best made by access from both the inside and the outside of the repair. However, access from the interior may not always be possible because a floor or interior wall may block access.  If it’s a serious structural repair in a high-stress area, you’ll have little choice but to cut a hole through the floor or wall to access the inside of the repair. However, doing a repair from the outside only is possible for small repairs or repairs in low-stress areas.  The first thing to do is assess the damage carefully by cleaning the exterior with acetone. This will make hairline cracks evident, and you’ll want to grind all the way back until the crack terminates. First, using a 4-inch grinder with 80-grit sandpaper, grind or cut away any broken material in the perimeter of the hole that lacks structural integrity. Then with the grinder, taper the edges of the hole using a 12:1 rule. That is, taper back the edge of the hole at an angle that is 12 times the overall thickness of the fiberglass material. 

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To repair a hole, use a 4-inch grinder and coarse sandpaper to grind away any broken material that lacks integrity. Then taper back the edges of the hole.

If it’s a repair from both the inside and outside, the taper will be centered on the thickness of the fiberglass and taper back on both inside and outside, resembling the cutting edge of an ax.  If the repair is done from the exterior only, then the taper will start at the bottom of the thickness of fiberglass and taper toward the outside, resembling the cutting edge of a carpenter’s chisel. Next, after the taper from the edge of the hole outward is complete, grind back toward the perimeter to where the hairline cracks ended. Now the entire repair area has been defined. Repeat the same on the inside of the repair if you’re doing a two-sided repair. Clean all surfaces with acetone to be free of dust so the resin will adhere.

For a two-sided repair, next, you’ll cut a piece of fabric that extends to the outer margin of the repair. Mix up resin and hardener, and on a scrap piece of cardboard, lay your piece of fabric, and use a brush to saturate the cloth with resin. Turn the fabric over and coat the other side.  Next, take the brush and apply resin to the interior repair area. Then carefully stretch the resin-soaked fabric over the hole, so it’s on a smooth plane and wrinkle-free. Use the brush to press out any air pockets, so the patch sits flat against the existing interior surface. Once the interior fiberglass patch has been set up and is somewhat hard, have already cut a piece of cloth or several layered pieces of cloth that will fill the thickness of fiberglass to near the surface plane of the exterior. The outermost layers will be a resin-soaked mat, so it will be smooth and not show the texture of the cloth. 

Let the patch dry. Once it is dry, grind down the high spots with 80-grit sandpaper until it is on the plane with the finished surface. At this point, clean off the sanded area, and assess the low spots. If there are still high spots, continue to grind them down. Next, you’ll use a resin that’s mixed with chopped strands of fiberglass. This is a cosmetic layer, as the structural layers are already in place. This will fill the low spots and bring the repair up to plane with the exterior surface. Once the chopped strand layer is set up and hard, grind down the high spots until in plane with the finished surface. The next step is to mix up what is referred to as “peanut butter .”This is resin and thickener and is the consistency of smooth peanut butter.  Using a plastic applicator, apply the peanut butter resin mixture to give the final surface all the way to the perimeter of the repair. If it is a curved surface, use a metal, plastic, or plywood flex board to smooth the final contour. Once this layer is dry, grind it down so you’re perfectly on the plane with the exterior surface. Now there should only be some minor pits and pinholes to fill. Use a skim coat resin and hardener and apply using a plastic applicator. Once dry, sand to perfection using fine sandpaper.

Spray the Gelcoat

The Gelcoat is the shiny hard finish surface on the boat exterior. Once the color is matched, spray on the finish coats of gelcoat. Once the topcoat dries, use 600-grit wet sandpaper and higher to seamlessly blend the new gelcoat with the original finish. Lastly, use wax to give the final buff to make the repair invisible.

Gelcoat is the shiny cosmetic finish to Fiberglass repair. It is sprayed on and built up in multiple applications to create a glossy topcoat.

Repairing a Minor Chip or Gouge in the Gelcoat

In this case, the structural fiberglass has no damage, and it’s just the finish layer of gelcoat that needs repair.  Grind the repair with a Dremel tool to expose clean fiberglass and bevel back the repair edge. Mix up the correct color of gelcoat with hardener, and take a small brush and create a slightly raised puddle of gelcoat that entirely fills the void and extends just past the margins of the repair area.  Let the puddle dry hard, then using 600-grit wet sandpaper, sand until flush with the finished surface. On a flat surface, use a sanding block to create a perfect plane. End with a coat of wax to make the repair blend in perfectly.

Repairing fiberglass is a multi-step process. However, even the most unsightly damage from hitting a rock, bumping into a dock, or even a collision can be repaired to look just like new.  Lakeside Marine offers professional boat fiberglass repair from minor dings to major structural repairs. We also handle fiberglass repairs for boat insurance claims, making the repair and insurance reimbursement process seamless. We even do boat modifications and restorations. 

Lakeside Marine does fiberglass repairs for boat accident insurance claims, classic boat restorations, and custom high-performance boat modifications.

For professional results for your boat fiberglass repairs, call email  [email protected]  or go to our webpage and learn about our [fiberglass repair services], and read customer testimonials about how Lakeside Marine performed outstanding fiberglass repair while providing exemplary customer service.

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How to Repair Your Fiberglass Boat

A fiberglass boat is an investment that requires regular maintenance to keep it in good condition. But despite your best efforts, wear and tear is inevitable, and you may need to repair your boat eventually. Fortunately, fiberglass boat repair is something you can do yourself. With a few tools, materials, and the right knowledge, a DIY repair can save you a lot of money.

In this tutorial, we will walk you through some things you need to know about repairing a fiberglass boat. We’ll go over the tools and materials needed, as well as the steps you need to take to ensure your boat is repaired correctly. By the end of this post, you will have some knowledge and confidence to start a fiberglass boat repair on your own.

Assessing the Damage

The first step in repairing a fiberglass boat is assessing the damage. You need to determine the extent of the damage and whether it's structural or cosmetic. A damaged hull can be repaired, but if the damage is extensive, you will want to look at hiring a professional. With that said, you can utilize the following tips to assess the damage of your fiberglass boat properly:

-Assess the damage caused by external factors like accidents or collisions. This is important to do right away as the longer cracks or holes are left unrepaired, the more damage that can occur as water seeps in.

-Check for cracks, holes or depressions in the surface

-Check for any discoloration or changes in texture

-If the damage is located under the waterline, check for any water-filled areas

-Check for warped floor boards

Once you've assessed the damage, you can figure out the best way to start repairing your fiberglass boat.

Materials and tools

Next, you need to gather the necessary tools and materials. In most instances, you will need fiberglass mat or knit fabric , resin , hardener, a squeegee , rollers , sandpaper, a power drill, and a buffer. You’ll also need protective gear , like gloves, goggles, and a respirator, as the chemicals used in the repair process can be harmful. You may also need a gel coat depending on the resin you use and what was used on the surrounding area near the scratch or crack.

Repair the Damage

If your fiberglass boat has a scratch or crack, then you can fix it yourself. Here are the steps to follow:

-Clean the damaged area with a mild detergent and water, then sand it with 220 grit sandpaper. Clean with acetone.

-Apply fiberglass with an epoxy or vinyl ester resin over the damaged area. If the repair is not below the waterline, you can also consider polyester resin for the repair. Follow the instructions on the resin for specific resin to hardener mix ratios. You can use a roller and/or squeegee to work the resin into the fiberglass. If you are using chopped strand mat , you do not want to use epoxy resin. Epoxy resin and chopped strand mat are not compatible.

-Sand the surface again with 220 grit sandpaper to remove any bumps or ridges

-Finally, apply a gelcoat to match the color of the rest of the boat. If you are using an epoxy resin, you will need to use a different type of paint. Gelcoat is polyester based and will not adhere to the epoxy resin. It will adhere well to a polyester or vinyl ester resin.

**If the hull has large cracks and holes, you might need a professional to help.

If the damage is in the core or floorboards of the deck, the repair may be more extensive but still possible to do on your own. Feel around for soft spots or any giving areas in the floor to asses. If there is any warping or soft spots, the deck will need to be repaired.

- Remove the bad floor boards

- Tear out any core material that may have rotted.

- Let the area completely dry before moving on. This is a must.

- Replace core material with a plywood, balsa, foam or honeycomb.

- Add new floor boards

- Caulk any holes and around hardware. This is important to avoid having moisture seep in and causing future damage.

- Use fiberglass and resin over the floorboards to seal. You will need the same materials and tools as repairing scratches and cracks.

- Once fiberglass and resin have been applied and cured, you can install the carpet if using. If you are not using carpet, make sure the final layer of resin has a wax in it so it cures tack free. Polyester and vinyl ester resin, without wax will cure tacky. If you are working with epoxy resin, then this is not an issue as it will cure without a tack.

If the damage appears to just be in the gel coat, this can be simpler to fix. For information on different issues you can have with the gel coat and how to fix it, read HERE .

Prevent Future Damage

After repairing your fiberglass boat, it is always a good idea to take steps to prevent future damage. Here are some general tips to keep your boat in good condition:

• Use boat covers when not in use
• Regularly clean your boat with mild detergents and water
• Wax your boat regularly
• Make sure all holes are thoroughly caulked around hardware.
• Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for boat usage and maintenance.

Repairing fiberglass boats is not as complicated as it sounds, but it does require attention to detail and patience. Be sure to take any precautions that will prevent future damage. With a little knowledge, skill, and patience, you'll have a well-maintained fiberglass boat that will provide you with endless hours of fun on the water.

Still have questions? Don’t hesitate to reach out to our knowledgeable customer service team. You can email us at [email protected] or give us a call at 1-833-669-7899.

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Structural Fiberglass Repair Part 1

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This is part 1 of a 3 video series outlining how to repair structural damage to your fiberglass boat. Make sure to watch all 3 in order! Otherwise you will be totally lost 🙂 These video’s are leading into the gelcoat series which is coming!

Please ‘Like’ or ‘Share’ above and join the discussion below in our comments section!! Also, please remember that there are extended ad-free versions of these video’s available for Patreon supporters! Please click below to find out more.

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Join the discussion 12 Comments

Your the best.

On the grinder, what kind of grinder wheel do you use? Thanks for the videos and keep ’em coming. I need to learn more!!!

It’s a 36 grit ‘flap disk’.. I’d have to look up the invoice for the brand, but I’m thinking that a quick google search should pull something up for ya ;-)… If not, let me know. Only thing I can think of to note would be to make sure that the arbor size of the wheel fits your grinder..

Hello I have a 18 foot fiberglass boat (hydrostream v-king) that has six holes in a 1.5 foot square area, the holes are the same size as the one in the video. my problem is if i repair the holes the way you show in the video most of the repairs will be over lapping each other is this ok or should I remove the section of the bottom and replace it ?

You should be fine to overlap the repairs. Since it’s such a small area I would probably do the final couple glass layers over the entire area, then fair the repair for gelcoat..

I can’t do a two-sided repair as you suggest. I’m repairing a sailing dinghy, and the inside is inaccessible – a very narrow space between the hull and cockpit.

I was all set to buy the laminating resin when I realized I won’t be able to coat the inside with the mold release. In this situation, it seems I must use the pre-waxed resin. Is that correct, or is there an alternative?

Hey Greg, I think I understand your situation but if you could please email (or post on Facebook) a couple pics of the repair area I’ll be able to give better advice 🙂 Thanks!

Aloha Andy I have to say I have been in the composit industry for 20+ years and your videos are awesome. I know for me the understanding is super clear, but the way you go about explaining things is great for someone to tackle there own repairs and fiberglass project. Thank you for sharing your knowledge it is rare in our industry for people to be open and informative. Great job aloha Mike Storm maui, Hawaii

In repairs where there is no access to the interior surface of the hull would a repair completely from the outside not work fine… where you copy the thickness of the hull over say an circle area of say 8 inches in diameter with a taper around the hole so that succeeding larger pieces of biax and mat are used to match the thickness of the hull ?

I ask this as it seems to be published in West’s fiberglass pamphlet and other places using epoxy. I’m wondering if using only polyester to repair would require a stronger engineering approach…

Also, I wonder if you only applied a “form” piece of plastic glued to the inside surface of the hull covering the hole as a stop gap for your repair… then ground out the entire area the thickness of the hull in a gradual bevel and did the entire repair from the outside … would this not be just as strong as your illustrated method considering the pressures from use would be from the outside inward? … with water etc.

I really enjoy your website and youtube videos… thanks for such a good source for information. I’m wondering what bedding compound you use to re-bed older aluminum or stainless ports …. life caulk (polysulphide) over silicone I’m presuming…. comments welcomed.

Hey Andy – Your vidoes have encouraged me to get into fiberglass and gelcoat repair on my old sail boat that I wouldn’t have tried otherwise. I have also been sharing them with members of our yacht club and on sailing blogs. Really appreciate your great work!

Thank you very much Mark! I really appreciate it 😉

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How to Repair a Fiberglass Boat: Tips & Tricks from Pros

Fiberglass boats are popular among boating enthusiasts due to their durability and versatility. However, like any other watercraft, fiberglass boats are prone to wear and tear, and may require repairs over time. In this article, we will guide you through the process on How to Repair a Fiberglass Boat, ensuring that you can keep your vessel in excellent condition and prolong its lifespan. Whether you are dealing with minor cracks or major structural damage, these step-by-step instructions will help you restore your fiberglass boat to its former glory.

Assessing the Damage

Table of Contents

Before embarking on any repairs, it is crucial to thoroughly assess the damage to your fiberglass boat. Inspect the hull, deck, and any other affected areas to identify cracks, holes, or structural issues. Different types of damage may require specific repair techniques and materials, so understanding the extent of the damage is essential for an effective repair process.

Gathering the Required Materials

To repair a fiberglass boat, you will need the following materials:

• Fiberglass cloth or matting
• Epoxy resin and hardener
• Mixing containers and stir sticks
• Sandpaper of various grits
• Fiberglass filler putty
• Paintbrushes and rollers
• Safety equipment (gloves, safety glasses, respirator)

Ensure that you have all the necessary materials readily available before starting the repair process to avoid any interruptions.

Preparing the Work Area

Before diving into the repairs, it is crucial to prepare the work area properly. Start by cleaning the damaged area with a mild detergent and water to remove any dirt, grime, or loose particles. Dry the area thoroughly and ensure that it is free from moisture.

Repairing Small Cracks and Gouges

For small cracks and gouges, begin by sanding the damaged area gently. This process helps in creating a better bond between the fiberglass and the repair materials. After sanding, wipe away any dust and apply a thin layer of epoxy resin to the damaged area using a brush or a putty knife. Cut a piece of fiberglass cloth or matting slightly larger than the damaged area and place it over the epoxy-coated surface. Apply another layer of epoxy resin over the fiberglass, ensuring that it is fully saturated. Allow the repair to cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Fixing Major Structural Damage

When dealing with major structural damage, such as a hole in the hull, the repair process requires additional steps. Start by cutting out the damaged area in a shape that can be easily patched. Prepare a fiberglass patch by layering multiple pieces of fiberglass cloth or matting with epoxy resin, ensuring that each layer is fully saturated. Apply the patch to the prepared area, overlapping it onto the surrounding undamaged fiberglass. Secure the patch in place with additional layers of fiberglass and epoxy resin, building up the layers until the desired thickness and strength are achieved. Allow the repair to cure completely.

Sanding and Smoothing the Repaired Area

Once the repairs have cured, it is time to sand and smooth the repaired area. Begin with rough-grit sandpaper to level any uneven surfaces, gradually moving to finer grits for a smoother finish. Pay attention to blending the repaired area with the surrounding fiberglass to achieve a seamless appearance. Remove any dust or debris from the sanding process before proceeding.

Applying Gelcoat

To restore the original appearance of the repaired area, apply a gelcoat layer. Gelcoat not only provides a protective barrier but also gives a glossy finish to the fiberglass. Mix the gelcoat according to the manufacturer’s instructions and apply it evenly using a brush or a roller. Allow the gelcoat to cure completely.

8. Buffing and Polishing

After the gelcoat has cured, use a buffing compound and a polishing pad to enhance the shine and smoothness of the repaired area. Buff the gelcoat in a circular motion until you achieve the desired level of shine. This step helps blend the repaired area with the rest of the boat’s surface.

Testing the Repaired Area

Before taking your fiberglass boat back onto the water, it is crucial to test the repaired area. Fill a container with water and submerge the repaired section. Check for any signs of leaks or water intrusion. If the repair holds up well, you can be confident in the effectiveness of the repair process.

Preventing Future Damage

To minimize the chances of future damage to your fiberglass boat, take preventive measures. Regularly inspect your boat for signs of wear and tear, promptly addressing any issues that arise. Use protective coatings, such as wax or polymer sealants , to shield the fiberglass from UV rays and other environmental factors. Properly maintain your boat by cleaning it regularly and storing it in a suitable environment when not in use.

Maintaining Your Fiberglass Boat

Maintaining your fiberglass boat is crucial to ensure its longevity. Wash your boat regularly with a mild detergent and water, removing any saltwater residue or contaminants. Apply a high-quality marine wax or polish to protect the gelcoat and maintain its shine. Check for any signs of damage or wear, and address them promptly to prevent further issues.

Tips & Tricks from Pros

Here are some tips and tricks from professionals to help you with your fiberglass boat repair:

• Prepare a well-ventilated work area : Ensure that you have proper ventilation in the work area to prevent the buildup of fumes from epoxy resin and other chemicals. Open windows or use fans to promote air circulation.
• Follow safety precautions : Always wear the appropriate safety gear, including gloves, safety glasses, and a respirator, to protect yourself from harmful chemicals and particles during the repair process.
• Read and follow instructions : Carefully read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for all the materials you are using. Each product may have specific guidelines and recommended ratios for mixing and application.
• Take your time with sanding : Properly sanding the repaired area is crucial for achieving a smooth and seamless finish. Start with a rough-grit sandpaper and gradually move to finer grits for optimal results.
• Mix epoxy resin accurately : When mixing epoxy resin and hardener, ensure that you follow the correct ratio specified by the manufacturer. Proper mixing ensures that the resin cures effectively and provides a strong bond.
• Apply multiple thin layers : When applying epoxy resin, fiberglass cloth, or gelcoat, it is better to apply multiple thin layers rather than one thick layer. This allows for better adhesion and reduces the chances of sagging or uneven surfaces.
• Blend the repaired area : When sanding and buffing the repaired area, pay close attention to blending it with the surrounding fiberglass. This helps achieve a seamless appearance and disguises the repair.
• Maintain cleanliness : Keep your work area clean and free from dust and debris. Additionally, regularly clean your tools and brushes to prevent any particles from contaminating the repair materials.
• Store materials properly : Properly seal and store your epoxy resin, hardener, fiberglass cloth, and other materials to extend their shelf life and maintain their effectiveness for future repairs.
• Seek professional help if needed : While many fiberglass boat repairs can be done by boat owners, don’t hesitate to seek professional assistance for complex or extensive damage. Professionals have the experience and expertise to ensure a quality repair.

Remember, patience and attention to detail are key when repairing a fiberglass boat. By following these tips and tricks, you can achieve a successful and long-lasting repair that will keep your boat in top shape for years to come.

1. How long does it take to repair a fiberglass boat? The time required to repair a fiberglass boat depends on the extent of the damage. Small cracks or gouges can usually be repaired within a few hours, while major structural repairs may take several days, considering curing and drying times.

2. Can I repair a fiberglass boat myself, or should I seek professional help? Minor repairs can often be accomplished by boat owners with basic DIY skills. However, for major structural repairs or if you are unsure of your abilities, it is recommended to seek professional help to ensure a proper and durable repair.

3. Do I need to wear protective gear during the repair process? Yes, it is crucial to wear appropriate protective gear, such as gloves, safety glasses, and a respirator, when working with epoxy resin, gelcoat, and other chemicals. This will help protect you from potential health hazards.

4. Can I use regular paint instead of gelcoat for the repair? Gelcoat is specifically designed for fiberglass repairs and provides better adhesion and durability compared to regular paint. It is recommended to use gelcoat for a long-lasting and seamless repair.

5. How often should I inspect my fiberglass boat for damage? Regular inspections are essential to catch any signs of damage early on. It is recommended to inspect your fiberglass boat at least once a season and after any significant impacts or rough usage.

Repairing a fiberglass boat may seem daunting, but with the right materials, techniques, and a systematic approach, you can restore your boat’s structural integrity and aesthetics. By following the step-by-step instructions outlined in this article, you can tackle various types of damage, from small cracks to major structural issues. Remember to prioritize safety, take your time, and pay attention to detail throughout the repair process. By doing so, you can enjoy many more years of boating adventures with your well-maintained fiberglass boat.

Anna Kristensen is an avid sailor and experienced yacht captain. With her vast experience sailing across different seas and weather conditions, she offers expert advice on navigation, seamanship, and offshore sailing. Anna's in-depth knowledge of sailing techniques, safety protocols, and voyage planning makes her an excellent resource for sailors looking to enhance their skills and embark on memorable boating adventures.

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Fiberglass Boat Restoration: The Project Planning Guide Hardcover – August 15, 2017

Purchase options and add-ons.

• Print length 160 pages
• Language English
• Publisher Seahorse Publishing
• Publication date August 15, 2017
• Dimensions 6 x 0.59 x 9 inches
• ISBN-10 194482426X
• ISBN-13 978-1944824266
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• Publisher ‏ : ‎ Seahorse Publishing (August 15, 2017)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Hardcover ‏ : ‎ 160 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 194482426X
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1944824266
• Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 1.38 pounds
• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 6 x 0.59 x 9 inches
• #66 in Instructional Sailing
• #84 in Ship Repair & Maintenance
• #663 in Boating (Books)

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L&H Boats

If you can dream it, we can build it., your one-stop boat shop, marine customs unlimited, mcu is your one stop boat shop: used boats for sale, boat repair, plastic fabrication, custom boat canvas and upholstery or complete boat services and restoration.

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Boating in Missouri, whether it’s cruising on the mighty Mississippi River, fishing in the tranquil waters of Mark Twain Lake, or enjoying the bustling activity on Lake of the Ozarks, is an experience like no other. But what do you do when your cherished fiberglass...

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Frequently asked questions

Absolutely! We pride ourselves on our ability to color-match your boat’s original fiberglass. Our team uses advanced techniques and high-quality materials to ensure the repaired area blends seamlessly with the existing hull, maintaining the aesthetic integrity of your boat.

We do require that the boat is brought to our facility, ensuring we have all the necessary tools and materials at hand to provide the best quality service.

Yes, we work with most insurance companies and can assist you in the claim process for fiberglass repairs. We aim to make the process as smooth as possible by providing detailed repair estimates, communicating directly with your insurance provider, and ensuring that the repair work adheres to the highest standards.

The duration of a fiberglass repair can vary depending on the extent of the damage and the specific requirements of the job. Minor repairs usually take a few days, whereas more extensive structural repairs might take longer. We strive to provide an accurate timeline after assessing the damage, ensuring minimal downtime for you and your boat.

Definitely! Regular maintenance is key to preserving the integrity of your boat’s fiberglass. We recommend periodic inspections to identify and address any minor issues before they escalate. Additionally, proper cleaning, waxing, and storage of your boat can significantly reduce the risk of damage. Our team is happy to provide personalized advice and services to help protect your boat’s fiberglass from the elements and wear.

At American Standard Fiberglass Repair, we offer a comprehensive range of services tailored to your boat’s needs. This includes minor gelcoat repairs, major structural fiberglass repairs, cosmetic enhancements, and color matching. Our expertise ensures that your boat not only looks great but is also structurally sound.

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eastward ho sailboat for sale

• Boats for Sale

24' eastward ho cruisers.

ARCHIVED: This is a previously listed vessel and is no longer offered for sale If you would like assistance locating a similar vessel, Click Here to locate a similar boat

Designed by Eldredge-McInnis and built by Portsmouth Yacht Co., the Eastward Ho is a compact yet roomy sloop designed for family cruising in comfort. She is a proven design which combines traditional elegance with practical accommodations. Nothing has been overlooked to satisfy both the sailor and the cruising enthusiast. Her generous headroom, two berths, full galley, and enclosed head are unique on a boat of this size. Her spacious cockpit affords seats long enough for an afternoon nap or additional overnight guests. Sailing or under power she is lively and responsive with a motion reminiscent of a much larger boat. Her ample beam and sufficient ballast make her very stiff without sacrificing valuable draft.

Attabuoy  is in need of general cleaning inside and out and some cosmetic work. The keel will need some minor fiberglass work. The sails are like new. The engine turns over, but has not been operated for a number of years. Take a look and you will fall in love!

• Specifications
• Description

Hull color - white

Deck color - cream

Keel - internal lead

Cockpit Cushions

Stern Ladder

Opening Ports - 2

Pressure Water

Refrigerator

Battery - 1 (most likely is dead)

Shorepower 110V

Roller Furling

Depthsounder

Cradle - steel

Anchors - 3

Anchor Rode - 2

Fire Extinguisher

Life Jackets

Main - white, Dacron, The Yacht Sailmakers

Main Cover - blue, Sunbrella

Genoa - white, Dacron, The Yacht Sailmakers

Summer & Winter - Torresen Marine, Inc., Muskegon, Michigan

For more information or details, please contact Steve Dake, Director of Sailboat Sales, at (231) 759-8596 or by email at [email protected] .

Steve has been in the marine business for over 40 years. Please use his knowledge and experience to help you find the right boat for your needs.

Because we value your time, please call and make an appointment prior to visiting. Your scheduled appointment helps ensure the ability to board and see the boat you would like to preview. Please wear boat shoes only to board all boats. The only exceptions are non-marking treads. Thank you!

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eastward ho 24 for sale

• eastward ho 24

1976 CE Ryder Eastward Ho 24 sailboat for sale in Connecticut

Ce ryder eastward ho 24.

Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co., Rhode Island, USA, this stout pocket cruiser is a solid full-keel sailing vessel. Omoo has had a lot...

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Portsmouth Eastward Ho Boats for sale

1976 PORTSMOUTH Eastward Ho

Neptune, New Jersey

Make PORTSMOUTH

Model Eastward Ho

Category Sailboats

Posted Over 1 Month

1976 PORTSMOUTH Eastward Ho All of the prep work has been done and she's just about ready for paint. This is a great opportunity for someone looking to customize an Eastward Ho their way and do it cheap!   Seller has all parts to complete this project. Also available separately is the completely rebuilt 14HP Volvo MD7A Diesel engine, ready to be placed in the boat.  Top to Bottom rebuild was performed by world renowned Monmouth Marine Engines of Brielle NJ. $3000 Invested.

Belmar, New Jersey

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New & Custom Home Builders in Elektrostal'

Location (1).

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• Sailboat Guide

Eastward HO 24

Eastward HO 24 is a 23 ′ 7 ″ / 7.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Walter McInnis and built by C. E. Ryder starting in 1975.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Originally designed for wood contruction. The hulls of the later, FG version were built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co. Diesel power was available as an option.

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Eastward ho 24 preowned sailboats for sale by owner. Eastward ho 24 used sailboats for sale by owner.

Both salon settees turn into two twin beds so can sleep 4 adults. YEAR: 1977 MAKE: Portsmouth Yacht Co MODEL: Eastward Ho CLASS: Sloop, Pocket Cruiser LENGTH: 26' (24' with 2' boomkin) HULL MATERIAL: FIberglass reinforced plastic FUEL TYPE: Diesel. AIR CONDITIONING: Drop in Cruise Air. ALL PHOTOS ARE RECENT.

1978. 31'. 10'. 4.2'. Florida. $12,900. Description: Airyella is a classic New England style sloop - has incredible character, is very distinctive, and is a pleasure to sail. She is perfect for anyone looking for a boat that will sail, and anchor overnight with 1-5 people, comfortably in the bay and the Keys and beyond, at a fantastic price.

1976. 24'. 9'. 4'. Connecticut. $12,000. Description: Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co., Rhode Island, USA, this stout pocket cruiser is a solid full-keel sailing vessel. Omoo has had a lot of updates including new diesel engine (Kubota Beta marine), rebuilt gearbox (2021), new standing and running rigging (2020), new ...

Broker: Designed by Eldredge-McInnis and built by Portsmouth Yacht Co., the Eastward Ho is a compact yet roomy sloop designed for family cruising in comfort. She is a proven design which combines traditional elegance with practical accommodations. Nothing has been overlooked to satisfy both the sailor and the cruising enthusiast.

A boat with a BN of 1.6 or greater is a boat that will be reefed often in offshore cruising. Derek Harvey, "Multihulls for Cruising and Racing", International Marine, Camden, Maine, 1991, states that a BN of 1 is generally accepted as the dividing line between so-called slow and fast multihulls.

Model McInnis. Category Sailboats. Length 31'. Posted Over 1 Month. 1985 #1 Hull McInnis,31 ft., 4.5ft. draft, McInnis Cutter rig Eastward Ho series. 28hp Yanmar diesel, All hardwood Interior, Complete custom finished, In bristol condition. Completely blue water equipt.Leave Message at 772/283-0853. $40000.

Go to Sailing Texas classifieds for current sailboats for sale . Eastward HO 24, 1977 LOA 25'5" LWL 20' Beam 8'8" Draft 3'10" SA 283 sq ft Ballast 3,600 Displacement 7,000 Keel Full Designed by Thomas F. Eldredge/Walter J. Mcinnis and built by the Portsmouth Boat Company (UK).

Used 1978 Eastward Ho 31 for sale is located in Bienville National Forest (Mississippi, United States of America). This vessel was designed and built by the Eastward shipyard in 1978. Key features 1978 Eastward Ho 31: length 9.45 meters. engine: fuel type - diesel. 1978 Eastward Ho 31 refers to classes: sailing yachts , sailboats and sailing ...

Seller's Description. Portsmouth Eastward Ho 24, 1978 sailboat for sale I am selling my 1978 Portsmouth Eastward Ho 24 for $12,500. The boat is in Alamitos Bay (Seal Beach, CA / Long Beach, CA) where the buyer may assume the slip at $320 a month. Very nice location, across the street from the new 2nd and PCH outdoor mall.

Go to Sailing Texas classifieds for current sailboats for sale Eastward Ho, 24 ft., 1975 No. 55, 1975. Highly regarded Eldridge/McGinnis cruising design- Full keel, 4 ft. draft. ... The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more. Formula. D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³ ...

Seller's Description. 1980 Portsmouth Yacht Co Eastward Ho 31. She is a classic designed in 1959, built in 1980. Similar to the Sea Sprite 33 that Robin Graham sailed around the world. Custom interior Volvo Penta MD2B 25hp Nice thick teak toe rail Electric Windlass Auto Helm Updated hardware above deck Updated rigging Bimini, dodger frames ...

Search eastward ho 24 prices - more than 1 listings - Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth Yacht Co., Rhode Island, USA, this stout pocket cruiser is a solid full-keel sailing vessel. ... 1976 CE Ryder Eastward Ho 24 sailboat for sale in Connecticut. Ce Ryder eastward ho 24 . Built by CE Ryder (USA) and finished by Portsmouth ...

Boat Trader currently has 3 Eastward boats for sale, including 1 new vessels and 2 used boats listed by both private sellers and professional yacht brokers and boat dealerships mainly in United States. The oldest model listed is a contemporary boat built in 2018 and the newest model year of 2021.

Join Date: Aug 2018. Posts: 3. Eastward Ho 31 Sailboat. Cutter Rig. Eldredge McInnis design, built in RI by C. Ryder Yachts. Roller furling jib. Jib boom & roller for twin furlers. Re-built Volvo Penta 30hp with spare engine & transmission. Bimini & dodger.

35.5' Endeavour E35 Presently on the hard for winter storage at Morgans Marina, New Jersey Asking $35,000

2015 Malibu Wakesetter 22 VLX. Battle Creek, MI. $40,000. 2008 Hydra-Sports 2200 CC. Sarasota, FL. $26,500. 2 new and used Portsmouth Eastward Ho boats for sale at smartmarineguide.com.

First S-400 bltn, Elektrostal, Moscow.

Get directions to Yuzhny prospekt, 6к1 and view details like the building's postal code, description, photos, and reviews on each business in the building

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Advertisement. Eastward HO 24 is a 23′ 7″ / 7.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Walter McInnis and built by C. E. Ryder starting in 1975.