diy lazy jack for sailboat

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Does it drive you nuts to raise the main on a boat with lazy jacks? A couple hours and about $100 in parts can solve the problem!

How To Make Lazy Jacks Easy To Use

Published on April 22, 2016 ; last updated on March 20, 2023 by Carolyn Shearlock

Lazy jacks are a great way to control your mainsail as it comes down, but they can also be a real frustration when raising it. The sail battens catch on the lazy jacks and you have to raise the sail a few inches at a time and time the ups perfectly as the lazy jack flips out of the way so the batten doesn’t catch.

There’s usually a bit of “discussion” between the person raising the sail and the one at the helm along the lines of “would you PLEASE hold the boat directly into the wind so I can get this sail up?” We won’t repeat what the person at the helm may be saying. For that reason, lots of people hate lazy jacks.

And I know a number of people who don’t want a stack pack system because it combines a sail cover and lazy jacks into one package.

A quick bit of rigging, however, will make lazy jacks simple to use when raising the main. The secret is being able to move the lazy jacks out of the way when raising the sail (and eliminate the chafe on the sail when sailing) but still have them easily available when you drop the main.

It’s easier to show in pictures, so here goes.

Using Improved Lazy Jacks

Our system – I’ve drawn the lines and blocks in as they didn’t show up well.

Diagram of easy-to-use lazy jack systems.

To raise the main, you release each lazy jack where it’s cleated on the mast, pull the two lines that are attached to the boom forward, and hook them on the reef hooks or the cleats that the lazy jacks are on. Then tighten up the lazy jack lines. The lazy jacks now form a reverse “L” going along the boom and up the mast.

Now, with the lazy jacks out of the way, you can easily raise the main.

While sailing, we leave the lazy jacks hooked on the mast cleats so they don’t chafe on the main.

Then, when it’s time to take the main down, we unhook the lazy jacks and tighten them up to catch the main.

In light air, we can even take the main down without turning into the wind as the lazy jacks nicely corral the sail as it comes down.

It almost flakes itself – a little bit of adjustment and it’s ready for the sail cover.

This system works equally well with a stack pack and/or lazy jacks that have three or four attachment points on the boom. We had a stack pack and lazy jacks with four boom (or stack pack, really) attachments on our previous boat (a Tayana 37 with a much larger main sail) and it worked perfectly.

Barefoot Gal had lazy jacks when we bought her, but they were terminated at the mast above the first spreaders. No line back down to deck level. Yes, it drove us nuts. But thanks to whoever had rigged Que Tal those many years ago, we knew exactly how to fix it.

How to Make Your Lazy Jacks Easy to Use

You’ll add a small block on the mast where the lazy jack control line will turn and come down to deck level. Then add a cleat on the mast where you’ll cleat off the lazy jack control line. Finally, you’ll add a longer control line to the lazy jacks.

There is no change to the part of the lazy jack system that is attached to the boom and which goes up to the block where the single control line attaches. The changes are all above that point.

You will need to go up the mast to the point where the lazy jacks attach with a bosun’s chair or another climbing device.

Total cost is $100 to $150 on most boats; time required is two to three hours once you have all the parts.

Preparation

Whip or melt the ends of the new control lines.

Rig up your bosun’s chair or other mast-climbing apparatus and container for carrying tools and parts up the mast with you. Be sure to take the new control lines up with you!

Step One: Add Cleats on Mast

Install the cleats on the mast at a convenient height. You want them to be out of the way of any winches and easy to access.

Drawing of sheet metal screw and machine screw

When attaching fittings to the mast, always use machine screws (or rivets) and not sheet metal screws. Halyards and wiring run inside the mast and the pointed tips of sheet metal screws can damage either one. Drill a hole in the mast and tap it for machine screws. Dab Tef-Gel on the screw threads before putting the screw in to prevent the dissimilar metals seizing. As a side note, you should also use machine screws or rivets for fittings on the boom, so as not to snag the outhaul or reefing lines running inside.

Step Two: Pad Eyes and Blocks on the Mast

For this step, you’ll have to go up the mast, using a bosun’s chair or whatever mast-climbing device you prefer ( see ours ). Always use a backup, totally independent system to lessen the chances of injury or death. And be sure to read my tips for keeping people on deck safe while someone is working in the air.

There were already pad eyes on the mast where our lazy jacks were terminated, so all we had to do was shackle a small block (sized for the lazy jack line) on the pad eye.

If you don’t have pad eyes, you’ll have to attach them to the mast, either with machine screws or rivets, then shackle the blocks to the pad eyes.

Use seizing wire or a cable tie to secure the shackle pins so that the pins cannot back out with the motion of the boat.

Step Three: New Lazy Jack Control Line

Before coming back to deck level, pass one of the new control lines through each of the blocks you’ve just installed. You may want to tie the ends together on each side so that you don’t have one go up the mast and come out of the block while you’re coming down (ask me how I know about this possibility!). When tying them together, do it fairly near the ends of each line so you can untie them from the deck.

Once you’re back down on deck, tie one end of each line to the block at the top of the catch lines on each side of the boat, at the point labelled “block” in the drawing below. Cleat the other end on the cleat you just installed.

Does it drive you nuts to raise the main on a boat with lazy jacks? A couple hours and about $100 in parts can solve the problem! A fairly easy DIY project.

There is very little load on the various parts. We had some items in our spares locker and bought others from Amazon. Due to the relatively light loads, you don’t need heavy-duty or top-of-the-line parts.

Two small blocks (these are what we used; make sure yours will fit your control line)
Two shackles to hold the blocks to the pad eyes (size to fit your other hardware)
Two pad eyes (this 10-pack is a great deal, but don’t use the pointy screws that come with them; buy 4mm stainless machine screws at a hardware or home improvement store)
Machine screws or rivets for pad eyes
Seizing wire or cable ties to secure shackle pin
Two small cleats and machine screws for attaching
New control line for lazy jacks — the easiest way to measure the length is to go from the aft attachment point of the lazy jacks on the boom to the gooseneck, plus twice the distance from the gooseneck to the pad eye on the mast. This will give you enough line to cleat. You need two pieces this long. Be sure to choose line that is UV-resistant; we like using Sta-Set.
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Reader Interactions

April 22, 2016 at 8:55 am

How do you know exactly what we say to each other when raising the main?! Great tips, we will have to do this!

Patty Thompson says

April 22, 2016 at 2:27 pm

Carolyn I really do love your advice!! Our boat has lazy jacks and we were never quite sure how to take full advantage of it and yes it has been a pain!! Now I can’t wait to do this and try it out! Thank you

Ted Broom says

April 22, 2016 at 10:15 am

We made our own maany years ago and that’s how I made them. Figured Relinda didn’t need the hassle of fighting the sail up. She pulls the legs forward to catch them at the gooseneck and hoists. No problems

BEVERLY VENABLE says

April 23, 2016 at 2:40 pm

We’ve always done this in our home-made set up because I had already made a regular sailcover and didn’t want to put slots in it for the lazy jack, so we pull the lazy jack forward before covering and that way it is out of the way for raising the sail on next trip.

Rodney L Foushee says

April 26, 2016 at 8:41 am

Having difficulty with lazy jacks is not a function of the jacks. It is a self-induced problem caused by raising/lowering sails in the wrong order. First up and last down is the head sail. Last up / first down is the main. After making way with the head sail, release the main sheet which allows the main on the boom to wind vane into the apparent wind. Leave the main sheet released. Helmsman pilots with the head sail; crew raises main with no batten snagging because the main system (boom, sail, jacks) is aligned with the wind. After the main halyard is cleated, helmsman trims the main. Same procedure in reverse order for lowering sails. Works in any breeze. Try it.

Keith & Nicki, s/v Sionna says

December 1, 2017 at 6:33 am

Rodney, this is great theory, but in many boats – ours included – it simply doesn’t work. Largely this is because with any breeze at all the mainsail is a living thing, luffing and moving randomly as soon as you begin to hoist. Carolyn’s advice is Stirling, and exactly what our sail maker recommended, with the added benefit of reducing chafe on our main from having the lazy jacks rub against the sail while under way.

December 1, 2017 at 11:39 am

There is no “theory” with my recommendation – the main sail on your boat, my boat, every boat is subject to the same laws of physics, and, thus, is nothing more than a flag aligned with the wind until the main sheet is tightened. You are correct, the main will move about just like a flag, but what you are missing is that it carries the boom and everything attached to the boom, including the lazy jacks, in alignment along with it.. Head sail first, then the main, it is just too easy.

I’m not questioning the wisdom of the jack system offered here. I’m just offering a practical efficient way of raising and lowering sails without fighting the wind. Simply a tip for the toolbox; don’t like, don’t use it.

Carolyn Shearlock says

December 1, 2017 at 11:44 am

I get what you are saying, but as the sail is raised the battens do not stay in alignment with the boom nor do the lazyjacks. They move independently and the battens WILL snag on the lazyjacks.as the sail is raised.

Michael says

January 1, 2022 at 8:22 pm

Depend on the boat and the sail. The size of the boom and the mast width usually determine the space between the lazy jacks some larger boats have wider boom and mast making the space between the lazy jacks much wider. Some sails are full length battens some have partial Battens. This makes a different in stiffness of the sail and the ends getting hung up or not. Sail shape also makes a difference. I like having the same setup as shown because it allows me to adjust The position of the block that supports the lower lines on the boom. But what works on one boat may or may not be best for all.

Marc Kornutik says

December 1, 2017 at 12:51 pm

Please allow that your system will not work if lazy jacks are in position. But I’m still confused because even if none are used or they are pulled out of the way…, once you are sailing after the headsail is unfurled the main is going to fill and billow out to leeward putting a lot of strain on the boltrope, mast track etc. Would be hard to raise and I think it would look quite the mess on deck. Glad it works for you is all I can say, but would love to see a video of you doing it.

Adam Norman says

April 26, 2016 at 9:26 am

Hi Carolyn Another advantage of your excellent system is that you can move the lazy jacks out of the way to the mast cleats when the boat is moored in the marina, thus cutting out chafe and wear on the sail cover if it gets windy while you are away from the boat. All the best from the UK! Adam

Margaret says

April 26, 2016 at 11:29 am

Going to do this!

April 28, 2016 at 7:43 am

We’ve had a similar system on our boat for 20 years. It’s great. No chafing, no interference with sail shape.

April 28, 2016 at 12:20 pm

A much cheaper and easier way I came up with is to just unfasten the aftmost attachment of the lazy jacks on both sides of the boom and tie shackles on the ends. Then since it is usually the aft lazy jacks that catch the battens, you can just unshackle them and walk them forward (I snap them together around the mast mounted jib halyard winch.) As long as you remember to walk them aft and reattach them before you lower the main (best to do them one at a time on the windward side of the main to avoid the pressure of the wind on the sail, and do the other on the next tack) it works fine. Granted this does not solve the problem of interference with the sail cover.

Patrick says

April 29, 2016 at 2:04 am

I have been doing this for a long time but with a little modification. If you have a long tail on the line that raises your lazy jack you can run it through a small cleat and back up to the first eye on the lazy jack. In this way to lower you just untie the tail and pull down the lazy jack. to raise you do the opposite. You do not end up with a lot of line to deal with as the line that comes down goes up at the same time. I hope this is understandable.

Jason Ellmers says

May 5, 2016 at 7:35 am

another thing that will help with snagging issues is to terminate the top most point in the middle of your spreaders and not on the mast at all.. It holds the top away from the centreline.

I have a stack pack with jacks which works like a dream.. Must admit also I don’t have to worry about the blocks the sail might rub on as I have soft spliced eyes at the ends of the rope for the other lines to pass through… Another tip.

Marc J. Kornutik says

April 13, 2017 at 9:23 am

Carolyn, excellent system for using just a sail cover. Must disagree though when using it with a stackpack. My lazy jacks also control the tension on the stackpack so it would flop to the sides rather than staying in place. Wouldn’t be realistic to sail that way if lazyjacks were brought fwd out of the way. It also allows the sail to drop out of it prior to hoisting (no sail ties) so really defeating it’s purpose. That said mine is rigged exactly as you described from the previous owner but I can’t get around the issue of the pack dropping down when those lines are loosened unfortunately.

April 13, 2017 at 9:32 am

We had a stackpack with lazy jacks on our previous boat. The sail falling out the pack as we raised the sail was far less of a problem than having the battens catch on the lines in our opinion. One trick is to release one side fully and the other only slightly — keep the boat not perfectly head to wind so that the sail all stays in the slightly released side (it will form a big belly as you partially release the lazy jacks) then bring the boat fully into the wind just as the person at the mast starts raising the sail and the sail starts spilling out. Takes a bit of coordination, but isn’t as hard as it sounds and keeps the sail contained pretty well as it’s being hoisted but also prevents the sail from hanging on the lazyjacks.

You may feel the opposite and prefer to keep the lines in their normal position. And yes, with a stackpack, we did re-tighten the lazyjack lines once the sail was up so that the stack pack laid next to the sail.

Jorge Bermudez says

April 25, 2017 at 8:56 pm

I only put up the lazy jacks to drop the main. Otherwise they are stored along the boom and mast

Bill Dixon says

April 26, 2017 at 8:55 am

We run the “downhaul ” leg aft to the sail cover. It becomes a 3rd lazy jack instead of just another line banging on the mast.

Andrent says

June 29, 2017 at 6:45 pm

We are new boat owners struggling with the stack pack and lazy jacks! Could not figure out what to do, will definitely try your method. Thanks.

Vangelis Christodoulou says

December 29, 2017 at 6:07 am

When under way don’t you get the lines fixed on the boom pulling ie not letting the boom swing out?

December 29, 2017 at 7:10 am

No, they go to hooks that are quite close to the gooseneck, so there is virtually no difference in length.

Evangelos Christodoulou says

December 30, 2017 at 7:16 pm

Ok makes sense. Thanks

Anonymous says

March 24, 2018 at 7:00 pm

Drives me nuts to lower the main without them!

March 25, 2018 at 3:29 am

Mike Drury read this!

March 25, 2018 at 6:53 am

That’s what I have been saying all along 😎 We need to get this rigged up once the new boom bag is made.

March 25, 2018 at 8:51 am

Mike Drury new boom bag is up already on the old lazy jacks! Just needs some finishing off on Monday x

March 28, 2018 at 12:22 am

Des Bradley

Bill Murdoch says

December 6, 2019 at 9:44 am

There is a 1994 US patent on the idea. The drawings and description would be helpful in setting up the system. https://patents.google.com/patent/US5327842A/en

DIY Lazy-jacks: Mainsail Tamers

Posted by Guy Stevens | Projects , Sails & Canvas

Take the pain out of the main, make your own lazy-jacks

The easiest way for the shorthanded sailor to control the mainsail when reefing or stowing is a set of well-fitted lazy-jacks. Lazy-jacks are made from a set of fixed or movable lines led from the upper section of the mast to the boom, with lines on each side. They guide the sail onto the top of the boom when reefing or dousing it and keep it there to be tied up at the crew’s leisure.

When properly installed, a lazy-jack system adds to safety and sail control. Lazy-jacks function well with sails with no battens, half battens, or full battens. When installed and used correctly, they prevent chafe and tearing. A well-thought-out installation makes the lazy-jacks convenient to use, puts them out of the way when stowed, and does not require expensive alterations of sails or sail covers.

There are several varieties of lazy-jacks. The fixed systems permanently attach to the mast and are not stowed. These require altering the sail cover, may chafe the sail while sailing, and sail battens may catch in the lazy-jacks, making hoisting difficult. The better systems allow the lazy-jacks to be stowed and are deployed only when the sail is being doused or reefed.

Off-the-shelf and custom-built lazy-jack systems are available. Sail-loft versions start at $200; mid-range systems cost about $400; and high-end systems can cost $1,500 or more if professionally installed. A scratch-built system can be fabricated for less than the cheapest off-the-shelf systems, and has some advantages in the way it fits and functions with your boat.

Off-the-shelf lazy jack systems are not always better

The off-the-shelf lazy jack systems are not necessarily better designs. Most off-the-shelf systems use blocks at their segment junction points. When stowed, these blocks may bang on the mast. Correcting this situation requires the installation of hooks on the mast or boom and sections of shock cord to pull the support segment away from the mast. The need for blocks at the segment junctions is questionable, and they are more costly than thimbles.

Systems that use a line through the sail can cause sail chafe and require modifications to the sail and cover. Since the average do-it-yourself sailor can’t perform these modifications, the work can be expensive. These lines can also interfere with the shape of the sail when set. Changing the sail requires re-threading the lines through the sail each time it is changed or removed, neither a quick nor an easy task.

Some systems use shock cords to support the leg segments of the lazy-jacks. However, the shock cord provides too much stretch, and the sail may fall out of the lazy-jacks. Most of these systems use a plastic clip-on fitting to secure the lazy-jacks to the boom and mast. This plastic deteriorates in sunlight and often fails within a season or two.

With about an hour more than you would invest in the installation of an off-the-shelf lazy-jack system, you can make your own custom set, tailored to your boat.

Line choices

The line you select should match your splicing abilities and rig construction. There are four types to choose from: three-strand nylon; three-strand Dacron, standard double yacht braid, and more exotic fibers, such as Sta-Set X or Spectra line. Lazy jacks made of three-strand nylon for the average boat can be assembled for about $91. The same lazy jacks in Sta-Set would cost about $160. Don’t let cost be the only deciding factor; each line has advantages and disadvantages.

Three-strand nylon is simple to splice, requiring no tools and little knowledge. It’s inexpensive and available from most chandlers for 13 cents a foot or less for 1/4-inch diameter. However it is stretchy, so it is not as well-suited for high-aspect-ratio rigs where the stretch could allow the sail to fall off of the top of the boom. It’s susceptible to chafing where it contacts other lines, and it may cause twisting when deploying the lazy-jacks, necessitating the untwisting of the support lines.

While this is the cheapest line, with the most disadvantages, it served well on my 39-foot racer/ cruiser for more than five years, until recent replacement with double yacht braid. I’ve constructed a number of lazy-jack systems using three-strand nylon for people who wanted to spend as little as possible on the initial trial of the lazy-jack system. Each system I created with three-strand nylon has occasionally required some intervention to untwist the support lines. Using this line, you could first build a three-legged system, expand to a four-legged system, or experiment with other aspects. As it is the least expensive material, making radical changes in lazy-jack rigging rarely involves more than a $30 expense.

Less stretch

Three-strand Dacron is as easy to work with as three-strand nylon. It is less expensive than yacht braid or exotic fibers and has significantly less stretch than nylon: 4.2 percent compared to 16 percent when loaded to 15 percent of breaking strength. This makes lazy-jack deployment and tensioning easier. It has less tendency to twist than nylon, lasts longer, and is significantly less prone to chafe. It is also 10 to 20 percent stronger than the same-sized nylon. It looks great on traditionally rigged vessels on which the rest of the rigging is three-strand and costs about 18 cents a foot. A system constructed with three-strand Dacron for an average boat costs about $106.

Double yacht braid line has still less stretch than three-strand Dacron – only 2.4 percent. It is less prone to chafe than either of the three-strand lines and looks a lot more at home on a boat with braided running rigging. It is more difficult to splice than three-strand line, and splicing requires the use of a fid and pusher like those produced by Samson or the Splicing Wand from Brion Toss. Both come with excellent directions. Double yacht braid eliminates twist. It costs about 36 cents a foot. A system would cost about $160 for an average boat.

The exotic lines are more expensive, and there is no need to make your lazy-jack system out of these because lazy-jacks are not normally subject to the kinds of loads these lines are meant to handle. They do rate a single mention. Should your boat have an extremely high-aspect-ratio mainsail, you might wish to make the support segments out of Sta-Set X. This line is harder to splice but has the advantage of the least stretch for the money, at 1.6 percent stretch and about 59 cents per foot. This would reduce any tendency of the high-aspect-ratio sail to stretch out the lazy-jacks and fall off the top of the boom. An alternative to splicing might be a good seizing job; it’s almost as strong and a whole lot easier.

Excessive chafe

Chafe on the mast is an issue because of noise and wear.

With the exception of a turning block for the support segment, blocks are not well suited to use in lazy-jacks; they cause excessive chafe on the sail and bang on any surface they contact. They also add unnecessary expense to the installation. They’re prone to jamming when deploying the lazy-jacks and to sunlight damage to their sheaves. Blocks are meant to make adjusting a line under load easier, but in deploying your lazy-jacks there shouldn’t be any load. The weight of the sail is placed on the lazy jacks after they have been deployed and adjusted.

There are three types of thimbles available. These are used for the inserts that go into the eye splices to reduce the chafe and friction where the segments of the lazy jacks meet.

Galvanized steel thimbles are really cheap, but they rust quickly and make a mess of the sails, mast, and anything else they contact. Nylon thimbles are cheaper than stainless steel, are a nice white color, and won’t remove the surface coating of the mast should they come into contact with it. However, they do chafe more easily and are subject to degradation in sunlight, often being the first part of a lazy-jack system to fail. Stainless-steel thimbles last longer than nylon thimbles and have the least friction. If allowed to bang on the mast, they make a racket and remove the surface coating. I use them only when I’m certain they’re not going to contact the mast. They will outlast the rest of the lazy-jack system and probably even the boat itself.

Stainless wire

Most off-the-shelf systems use vinyl-coated stainless wire for support segments. The wires are mounted to pad-eyes on the mast. Since both ends of the support segment are next to the mast when the unit is stowed, the segment bangs against the mast in rolly or windy conditions. A fixed-support segment requires lazy-jacks to be adjusted, stowed, and deployed from a spot on the boom. The disadvantage is that you have to adjust them from the center of the boom. If you position the lazy-jack controls on the mast, it’s much easier to deploy them when the boom is moving or not centered on the boat.

Mounting control lines on the mast also makes it possible to mount the support segment blocks 6 to 8 inches out on the spreaders. This prevents banging on the mast. Mounting the support segment blocks on the spreaders works best on the upper spreader of double-spreader rigs. If your boat has a single-spreader rig, or if you are mounting to the lower spreader, three-strand nylon may stretch too much and let the sail fall off of the boom. In these cases, the easiest solution is to use a stiffer line.

For free-standing rigs , a general rule for the placement of the support segment blocks is: the higher the better. About 70 to 75 percent of the height of the mast off the deck provides a good angle. If the support segment blocks are too low, the tension is more forward than upward. In this situation, the sail pushes the lazy-jacks out of the way and falls off of the boom when it is lowered.

Spreader blocks

The parts list on the previous page is for a 40-foot boat I recently equipped with lazy-jacks. On this boat I was able to use spreader-mounted blocks for the support segment. The rig is modern, so we used 1/4-inch double yacht braid for the installation. Since the support segments were spreader-mounted, I used stainless-steel thimbles. If we had not been able to use the spreaders for the support segment blocks, I would have used two Harken 092 cheek blocks at a cost of about $8.79 each.

The first step in the installation is cutting the lines for the support segments. If you’re installing lazy jacks on a double-spreader rig and are able to use the spreaders as a mount for the support segment, measure the height of the second set of spreaders to the deck. Double this measurement and add 3 feet for splicing room. You will need to cut two lines this length for the support segments, one for each side of the mast.

If you are unable to use the spreaders as a mount for the support segments, you will want to mount the support segment blocks about 70 percent of the way up the mast . Measure this spot on the mast by using a long tape and a halyard. Make sure the area is clear of other fittings and there is sufficient room to mount the cheek blocks.

If you’re mounting the support segment blocks to the bottom of the spreaders, position them about 8 inches from the base of the spreaders at the mast. Double-check the location. If there are spreader lights, they must be far enough away that the line for the support segments will not chafe on them. Make sure the drill does not hit the spreader-light wiring.

Small dimple

Once you are certain there are no obstacles, use a center punch to make a small dimple as the mark for the first hole. Drill the hole, using a little light oil on the bit. Then lightly oil the tap and tap the hole, being careful to start and keep the tap perpendicular to the bottom of the spreader. With each turn you should turn the tap back a quarter of a turn. This helps to avoid breaking the tap off in the hole because it clears the chips from the tap. When the hole is tapped, spread some Ultra Tef-Gel or anti-seize on the screw, and screw one end of the eye strap into place just barely tight. Use the other end hole as a guide. Center punch on this mark, drill, and tap it as before. But before inserting the screw, slide the block onto the eye strap. String one of the two support-segment lines thorough the block, one end on each side of the lower spreader.

If you are mounting the support-segment cheek blocks to the mast, the procedure is much the same, except you are going to measure up to the position you determined earlier and mark in the middle of the side of the mast. Using the cheek block for a pattern, drill and tap each hole. Exercise caution while drilling in the mast; go slowly so as not to over-drill and damage wire or lines in the mast. Thread the support-segment lines through the blocks, keeping one end on each side of the spreaders below you (if any).

Next, mount the cleats on the mast. They should be about level with the end of the boom, on the side of the mast. Make sure they are not going to interfere with other control lines on the mast. If they do interfere, moving the cleats up or down several inches might solve the problem. If the area on the mast is too cluttered, you can mount them about a foot or so aft on the boom, making sure you lead the support-segment control lines aft of any spreaders to avoid chafe and noise. I’ve found that moving the bottom of the cleat slightly toward the bow of the boat makes cleating the support segments a lot easier than an absolutely vertical cleat.

Various effects

Boom length, batten length, and the hand of the sail cloth all have an effect on the perfect number and placement of the leg segments for the lazy-jacks. I have had excellent performance with three-legged systems with booms up to 16 feet. Many rigs have mainsails that are shorter on the foot than the length of the boom. In these cases the sail’s foot length is the critical measurement. The best way to determine the number and placement of the legs is trial and error; every rig is slightly different.

Here are some good starting points for placement, but they are only starting points; 20 minutes of testing will make sure that the lazy-jacks are dialed in perfectly for your boat. Measure 25 percent of the length of the foot of the sail, back from the gooseneck on the boom. Mark this position on the bottom of the boom. Repeat at 60 and 85 percent of the length of the foot of the sail, and mark the bottom of the boom for these points. These will be the starting position for the legs on a three-legged system.

Both the forward leg segment and the single line that makes up the middle and aft segments should initially be 2.5 times the length of the boom. The forward leg segment passes under the boom at the mark closest to the mast and is hoisted by the eyes spliced in the support segments. It, in turn, supports the after and center leg sections in a three-legged system.

The luff of the sail is held to the mast by the sail slides, so when adjusting the forward leg segment keep in mind that it should attach to the boom at about the most forward point where the sail first starts to fall off of the boom. About 25 percent of the sail’s foot length aft of the mast is a good starting point. Too far forward, and the leg provides no support for the center section of the sail; too far aft, and the top of the sail tends to fall off the boom.

Through thimbles

The aft and center leg sections in a three-legged system make a loop. They are supported by the forward leg segments where they pass through the thimbles spliced to the ends of the forward segment. The center leg segment supports the large belly of the sail so that the sail does not spill off the boom. Slight adjustments of the center segment fore and aft can have large results.

The aft leg attachment point is generally the first place to start adjusting the system. If the sail falls out the end of the lazy-jacks, you will need to move it aft; if the center section needs more support, try moving it forward to add some support to the center section.

When you are roughing in the system and testing it, attach the middle of one of these lines to the aftmost mark on the bottom of the boom, using a constrictor knot or some good tape wrapped a couple of times around the boom. Lead the ends forward to the center mark on the boom. Tie them together making a loop out of this line. Secure it to the boom with a constrictor knot or tape. You can use a loose bowline in place of all of the thimbles while testing.

On sails that have slides on the foot, it is often possible to use these slides as mounts for the leg segments of the lazy-jacks. This does, however, limit the options for placement, and does not function well in all cases. It also means that you will have to remove the leg segments from the boom to remove the sail.

Attached to boom

Now you have a roughed in lazy-jack system. The legs should be attached to the boom well enough that you can hoist and drop the sail into them. Hoist the sail on a calm day, drop it into the lazy-jacks, and adjust until the sail stays stacked on top of the boom.

Should you have a boom over 16 feet long and the sail falls out of the middle no matter what adjustments you make, you may need a four-legged system. A simple addition to the system you already are working on makes the transformation an easy one. Instead of the forward leg supporting the center and aft leg loop, as it does in a three-legged system, it is going to become a loop just like the one between the two aft segments. Connecting the two loops are two pieces of line, each about half the length of the boom, one on each side, that are supported by the support segment. Good starting positions for the boom attachment points on a four-legged system are at about 24 percent, 45 percent, 55 percent, and 84 percent of the boom length, measured aft from the gooseneck.

Once you have tested to make sure you have the legs roughly where you want them, test to see if the system stows cleanly away. To put the system in the stowed position, ease the support segments and place the aft side of the segments under the cleats on the mast, then tension the support segment halyard. At this point you may have to shorten the forward or aft leg segments to remove any excess line that drapes below the boom. Do this by simply retying your bowline on one side of the aft or forward section. The leg sections should lie parallel to the boom when stowed. Naturally, this may change the way the segments support the sail, so hoist the sail again and drop it into the lazy-jacks, making sure that everything still looks correct before splicing the thimbles in the ends and attaching the eye straps. This is the trial-and-error part.

Anti-seize compound

Mount the eye straps that hold the leg segments, with the holes fore and aft, using machine screws drilled and tapped into the bottom of the boom. Remember to put the lines through them before attaching the second screw. Some riggers use pop rivets for these attachments, however, I have not found them to hold up as well as properly tapped screws coated with anti-seize compound.

Tie a small knot on each side of the center of the leg segments under the boom to prevent having to readjust the system periodically. Alternately, a couple of stitches through the line and around each of the eye straps looks neater and serves the same function.

Splice thimbles into all of the segments where there are bowlines. Make sure that you place the line going through the thimble in the thimble to be spliced before making each of the splices.

Using the system is straightforward: simply ease the support segment halyards on the mast, remove the leg segments from the cleat bottoms, and tension the support segment halyards. The lazy-jacks are ready for use.

Deploying the lazy-jacks allows you to drop the mainsail any time the wind is on or forward of the beam. I have used them when picking up a mooring and when sliding into a slip under sail. Simply let the mainsheet out and drop the sail. Pull the mainsheet back in when the sail falls into the lazy-jacks and you have quickly de-powered without having to head into the wind.

If your sail should hang on the track and refuse to allow the sail to drop easily, check for bent sail slides, and lubricate the track and slides with a dry Teflon lubricant.

Readers’ comments: What about sail containment systems: lazy-jacks and furlers?

We asked our readers what their thoughts and experiences were with sail hoisting, dousing, and reefing systems.

Don Launer, of Forked River, N. J., has lazy-jacks on the jib, foresail, and mainsail of his Ted Brewer-designed Lazy Jack Schooner (what else, right?). All three lazy-jack systems are simple two-legged arrangements that do not stow. Don reports that all work well, but he needs to go head-to-wind to hoist the Marconi mainsail.
Ron Bohannon, of Big Bear City, Calif., says his previous boat, a Phil Rhodes Chesapeake 32, had a roller-furling main. (This is the older rolling-boom type of reefing where the sail stows around the boom, rather than inside of it.) He says this system works fine as long as a main is cut properly and the topping lift is adjusted correctly. He adds, “It sure is simpler than any other system.”
Fred Bauer, of Marblehead, Mass., says, “I have a classic boat with old-fashioned lazy-jacks, but don’t miss the Hood Stow-away system.” He points out that Dodge Morgan had the Hood system on American Promise when he sailed around the world in her. Fred says, “It’s by far the easiest and most precise way to trim sails to the power of the wind I’ve ever used.”
Patrick Matthiesen, of London, England, sent a detailed opinion of the Hood Stoboom. He thinks it may work well with short booms but did not work well on the 22-foot-long boom of his Sparkman & Stevens CCA 47 yawl. He would not have another one.
Gary Heinrich, of Chippewa Falls, Wis., said that he has slab reefing on his S2 9.2 with “no furling system for the main, other than the arms of those available and, in a pinch, the deck and lifelines, followed by sail ties.” He has no plans to change his S2, but has chartered larger boats with lazy-jacks and sailcovers built into the sail. On these boats it was necessary to go head-to-wind to hoist the sail, and it took more than one person to do it.
Larry Helber, of Rochester, N.Y., said he had installed a Schaefer lazy-jack system on his Grampian 28. He liked the leather-covered blocks and the one-cleat design for storing the lines. He felt the hardware supplied was of good quality. He did say, however, that the system turned out to be a very poor design and cited problems with raising the sail and jamming of the jacks where they pass under the boom. A friend of his bought the cheapest set of lazy-jacks he could find in a catalog, and they worked better. “I would do it again (install lazy-jacks), but I would choose the cheaper version,” he says.
Bruce Goldman, of Southfield, Mich., reminds us that almost every aspect of sailing is some kind of compromise. “We have an in-mast ProFurl system on our Beneteau Oceanis 300. The convenience, ease of sail handling, and ease of setting and striking the main and genoa more than compensate for the sad sail shape (and resulting poor performance). We had some initial trouble with the furling line, but a good wash and ample Sailcote solved that problem.”
Jerry Powlas and Karen Larson, of Maple Grove, Minn., wondered “how complicated does all this have to be?” Our 20-foot Flying Scot had a longer boom than our C&C 30. With such a short boom, our high-aspect-ratio mainsail couldn’t get in much trouble when we dropped it. It was not control that we needed, it was order. We wanted the main to flake neatly over the boom. Obviously a neat flake has alternating panels to port and starboard. We made a very neat flake in calm conditions and then marked the luff of the main with red and green permanent markers to show which side of the boom the sail should fall on at that point on the luff. We did the same for the roach.Now when we lower, the person at the halyard at the base of the mast guides the panels to port and starboard as they fall. The roach can be made neat at the same time by another person or later by the same person. Once the luff is laid down correctly, the roach can be made to follow with minimal effort. The main was soon so well-trained that it almost always falls correctly and unaided. We think the sail is too small to require extra gear to control it. We use the same red-green markings on our heavy 110-percent jib to help us get it flaked prior to bagging it. It works so well, we will probably mark all our jibs that way.

Article taken from Good Old Boat magazine: Volume 4, Number 4, July/August 2001.

About The Author

Guy Stevens

Guy and his wife, Melissa, are working on a circumnavigation aboard Pneuma, their good old 1973 Ericson 39. Currently, they're in the Marquesas.

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Home Made Lazy Jack System

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You might want to check this thread. http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/39837-lazy-jacks-poor-person.html

I bought one of these and installed it on my boat 2 weeks ago. I like the way it works, but you do have to move the lines forward when sailing. SailCare

I made my own lazy jack system (copied PO's really) by using thin line (can't recall the size, probably 1/4" or less) with thimble eyes on the end (instead of usual blocks). One advantage of this is that the whole thing is so light that it doesn't really need to be removed while sailing (though I usually do it anyway - but really it does not interfere and can barely be seen).

Here's a homemade idea I copied this from someone else on another thread thinking I'd try it this summer. I can't vouch for it (yet). _______________________ I made my own using only line and a couple of SS eyes. My lazy jacks do not retract, and this has not been a problem. The way I installed my lazy jacks was keeping it simple. I ran a line around the mast over the top of the spreaders and brought each end to within 30" above the boom at its midpoint. Tied a bowline at each end. Then I tied a line to the bowline and went under the boom thru an eye that I installed and back up to the other side to the other bowline and terminated that line. I did this two more times so that I ended up with 3 triangles, alongside the lenght of the boom. The lines are not tight but relatively slack. I have been doing this now for 5 years with no problems.

This is approximately how my system is set up, though it does have two small cheek blocks on the mast.

Here is a well explained article on homemade lazy jacks. Inexpensive too! Tips - Lazy Jacks Dave

BreakingWind2 said: Here is a well explained article on homemade lazy jacks. Inexpensive too! Tips - Lazy Jacks Dave Click to expand...

Attachments

EO32 said: My PO had purchased a "Home made" Lazy Jack system with PVC loops and wads of shock cord, knots and line. I took me an hour to untangle it and lay it out to even figure out what it was. It also took about a hour to put it up, using the spreader halyard cord, and it was just a mess. Looking at various designs I came up with this. I tried it out this weekend and it works great. 10 Pad Eyes $5 1/8 shock line $5 100 ft 3mm cord $25 6 clips $10 About $40 I drilled and tap my boom to install the pad eyes with #10 SS screws. The Red lines are the 3mm cord and the blue lines are shock cord. The Alpine loops are a very nice loop knot. I had spreader blocks so I used those, but you could put pad eyes or cheek blocks on the mast. I also had "Aladen" cleats on the shrouds. Two bonus features. 1. The two main lazy jack lines can be unclipped and used as sail ties. 2. The two unclipped shock lines can be attached to halyards when cleated to the shroud cleat to pull the halyards from banging on the mast. The very aft spring line is attached and also acts as a sail tie. Click to expand...

Instead of drilling and tapping the boom, I would have used stainless steel or monel pop rivets. It isn't very likely that you'd need to remove a padeye, since they really don't need to be maintained, like a line clutch or a winch would, and pop riveting is probably better on a spar, since you don't have sharp screws sticking out into the interior to chafe/snag/rip the lines running through the spar.

Funny you say that. I used pop rivets when I mounted my horns to the mast, but I'm glad I used screws on the boom. 1) The screws are #10 /32 machine screws 1/2 inch long, so they won't catch on the outhaul inside the boom. (I tapped the boom holes) 2) One of the Pad Eyes broke as I tighened the screws down, so it was a simple repair. I used Tef-Gel on each screw.

The PO had a bunch of Chrome Cast Pad Eyes. My boom is round so it broke right where the bend starts.

If it were me I would use the money I saved making my own lazy jacks and get a stack pack sail cover. With the stack pack and lazy jacks you can drop the sail right into the sail cover and zip it up in a minute. Same goes for hoisting sails, just unzip the sail cover and haul away. To me lazy jacks are only one half of the system.

Bubb2- The stackpack is a great idea, but a StackPack is a Doyle sail loft creation and is attached to the sail.... a better idea is to get a StackPack like sail cover that uses the sail track on the boom instead. Gui's boat has one.

sailingdog said: Bubb2- The stackpack is a great idea, but a StackPack is a Doyle sail loft creation and is attached to the sail.... a better idea is to get a StackPack like sail cover that uses the sail track on the boom instead. Gui's boat has one. Click to expand...

The best I've seen (so far) are E-Z-Jax (ezjaxdotcom.) Their advantage is that they are immediately stowable alongside the mast and boom while under sail. When needed, they can be swiftly deployed. By doing some math and some advanced head-scratching, you could copy their design for your own personal use. But why bother when their cost is so reasonable?

SD, Why are you leading it back to the cockpit? I usually don't touch mine. They are slack enough not to interfere with the main (other than a batten hanging up once in a while when raising the main) and still tight enough to be effective.

Can a lazy jack system also function as a boom topping lift? My San Juan still has the pig tail hook on the backstay, so this seems like a significant improvement. Thanks

My homemade ones lift from the center of the spreaders and have some shock cord in them, so other than getting a batten caught while raising, they barely rest against the sail.

thank you!

Two things: 1. Google is a great search tool, the search built in here is not so great. Doing a google search "Lazy Jacks Sailnet" will give you a bunch of results. 2. To create a post in general, go to the "forum" part just under the Sailnet Logo, top left, this will give you a listing of the different forums. Select an appropriate forum, and then a subforum and from there you can "Create Post'. For Lazy Jacks, just click on the "Gear And Maintenance" tab, and create a post.

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What Are Sailing Lazy Jacks?

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

If you ever find yourself struggling with hauling down the mainsail, do not reinvent the wheel since people already have sailing lazy jacks!

Lazy jacks are simply rigs that are put into your boom and mast to make raising and lowering the mainsail easier in any condition or with limited manpower. They work through a simple series of lines and come in multiple varieties depending on ship construction and budget.

No matter what kind of construction you choose, getting a sailing lazy jack will surely make your outings that much more enjoyable. In fact, even if you have a full crew, using them can help you save time and navigate better without having to worry about reefing or fighting with your mainsail. However, there is a lot of confusion over the different types of lazy jack systems out there, and this article hopes to conglomerate into one place all the questions you might have ever had that you cannot find in one place.

After combing through and reviewing dozens of first-hand accounts from people who have used lazy jack systems across a wide range of rigs and brands, we have compiled a list of common questions, problems, solutions, and background to make this the best beginner’s guide for lazy jacks possible. While not all-encompassing, this should serve well as a springboard for further questions on lazy jacks once you start looking into them.

Table of contents

Why Get a Lazy Jack?

Lazy jacks are great for a wide range of sailors and sailboats. While lazy jacks save the most time and hassle with larger sailboats or single sailors, that is not to say every sailboat would not get an advantage out of them. After all, every sailboat has the same problem of having to lower and raise a mainsail, and every boat does not have the luxury of favorable weather conditions. By getting a lazy jack system, you can save time and frustration that this task normally brings and be able to focus on more important things like the safety of navigation.

This is probably the single most important reason to get one of these systems, especially for solo sailors, because trying to fight the wind, the sail, and keep a steady course in a dense traffic environment, like entering or leaving port, is an inherently dangerous evolution. By being able to cut out some of the required manpower and focus more time on safely navigating, you can save yourself a lot of headaches in the future.

What Does a Lazy Jack System Consist Of?

One of the best parts about lazy jacks is that they can be as simple or as advanced as you want them to be depending on your individual circumstances. In its most basic form, lazy jacks will need at a minimum line, several pad eyes, blocks or rope thimbles, and possibly a bag. That is it!

Of course, you will also need tools and material to help install a lazy jack such as a hammer, drill, tape measure, center punch, screwdriver, and rivets. However, this kind of logistics is only for the more advanced commercial systems which brings us to our next question: commercial or do-it-yourself?

Commercial or DIY Lazy Jacks?

The first major decision you will have to make before getting a lazy jack is going to the commercial or DIY options. One of the main disadvantages of commercial lazy jacks is the cost. For larger sailboats, these kits can run up into the hundreds or thousands of dollars depending on the size of the sailboat you have. Additionally, these kits only come with instructions and you would still have to pay someone else for installation if you did not want to do it.

For do-it-yourself kits, there is a plethora of information and guides online that explain in detail what materials you will need, where to put them, and how to install them. In fact, most of the major marine companies even publish their manuals like this one for free online on how to install the lazy jack system and these are chock full of useful information.

When done correctly, a DIY lazy jack system is the better option for sailboats less than 50 feet and for usually less than 50 dollars. In fact, you can usually repurpose most of the materials you probably already have like lines, rope thimbles, and cleats. Even larger sailboats would see the limited utility in getting a commercial kit since they would be geared more towards a specific brand of the boat that you might not have.

What Kinds of Lines to Use?

Choosing the kind of line you will use is probably the last big decision you will make since this will directly affect the performance of your lazy jack system. When choosing lines, you need to focus on strength and durability. The key here is to strike a balance between having enough strength to handle your mainsail while also not being too tough or gritty to damage your sail when underway.

For most people, using 1/8” or 3/16” is plenty enough strength. Additionally, synthetic lines like nylon or polyester work best since they are durable, lightweight, and can be easily spliced, which are all qualities that you will need when setting up your rig. The main reason why you want to use the right size line is not only to ensure that you have enough strength to hold in the mainsail and that the system functions properly but if the lines are too large this may also cause unnecessary chaffing to your mainsail. While this is surely not an exhaustive list by any means, since you could probably write an entire article on lines alone, these are a few things to consider when starting to look at lines if you have absolutely no idea where to start.

What Options Are Available?

For lazy jack systems, both DIY and commercial, there are three main systems to choose from:

Two-line system
Three or four line system
Dutchman system

Determining which system to get largely depends on the size of your mainsail. For those with smaller or medium-sized boats, a two-line system should be just fine. For those with larger sails, a three or four-line system would provide better support to fight against a larger sail. For the Dutchman system, this is better suited for those with battens

Two-Line System vs. Three and four-line systems

There is really no right or wrong answer for what kind of system you need to get for your sailboat. After all, the whole purpose of the lazy jacks is to help guide your mainsail back onto the boom to help stow it. However, before you go out and get a whole bunch of line and start connect lines to your boom and mast, consider a few pros for a two-line system:

Easier to set up
Less material to use
Less opportunity to catch on your sail

However, despite a two-line system’s simplicity, there are a few drawbacks:

Provides less support
Not suitable for larger sails
Loss of redundancy if a line parts

Three and four-line systems are obviously needed for those with larger sails and help those who want to have greater support and redundancy. However, they too have a few cons:

More difficult to rig
Usually has blocks that need to be secured
Less novice-friendly

Dutchmen System

One of the main problems with sailboats with lazy jacks is that if you have battens installed they frequently get caught when hoisting the mainsail. For those sailboats, it is recommended to use the Dutchmen system. The Dutchmen system prevents battens from getting caught in the lazy jack lines by having lines interwoven into the mainsail every few feet through fairleads. These leads help raise and lower the sail like a window shade.

While this system is great for those with battens, unless you have sail-making experience, you would not be able to make this system on your own. Additionally, this system requires the use of a topping lift line. Since not all sailboats come equipped with this line you would have to add it on.

How Does a Lazy Jack Work?

Operating a lazy jack is rather simple. After all, if it was not it would not be as popular as it is today. In its most basic form, the pilot can operate the lazy jack by pulling the lazy jack off its cleat and then attaching the hooks to the boom where it is anchored. You then raise the mainsail and get underway.

No matter whether you have a two, three, or four-line system, the lines act as a guide when you are ready to retrieve the mainsail. To keep the rig anchored, you will usually have two pad eyes drilled into the mast and then the lines will be fastened to the boom. The lines should ideally cover three-quarters of the surface area of the sail and wherever there is a junction a rope thimble or block should be used.

When retrieving a mainsail, you simply hook the lazy jack back together and then let the sail flake itself down onto the boom. While this might be easier for sails with battens on them, for those without this extra process it might be kind of a pain and take some of the utility out of having a lazy jack.

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Lazy Jacks for Your Sailboat: Tips & Tricks

THIS POST MAY CONTAIN AFFILIATE LINKS. PLEASE READ OUR DISCLOSURE FOR MORE INFO.

Our boat is complex. There are lots of moving parts, standing parts, parts work pretty well or parts that could use improvement. While circumnavigating, we’ve learned so much about our boat, but one of our very early lessons was on lazy jacks.

Table of Contents - Click to Jump

What are Lazy Jacks?

Our boat, Starry Horizons, a Fountaine Pajot Helia 44, has a stack pack for the mainsail. This stack pack attaches to the boom through a track. It closes around the sail with a zipper to keep the sail in a bundle. The lazy jacks keep the stack pack upright. The stack pack has a batten down the length of either side and integrated into the stack pack (and around the battens) are four loops on either side.

The lazy jacks tie to those loops. The part of the lazy jacks connected to the stack pack are the legs. Each leg is tied to the stack pack loop on either end, so you have four lines that make up your legs, all eight ends of the legs tied to the stack pack.

The next part of the lazy jacks is the risers. The risers run from the legs up to a pulley on the mast and then down to the base of the mast. There, they usually have their own cleats on either side where you secure the lines.

A pulley connects the risers and to the middle of the legs – or at least it should be! We were discussing lazy jacks with one FP owner. While we investigated his problem, we discovered that he didn’t have pulleys, the installers had simply tied the risers to the legs via a bowling knot. This is going to cause chafing issues with the lines so he replaced the bowlines with pulleys.

It is important that the lazy jacks never take the full weight of the sail and the boom. They are just to keep the sail and stack pack centered. The topping lift raises the boom up and takes a majority of the weight of the sail.

Why Do Boats Have Them?

Lazy jacks serve a couple of purposes. Aside from keeping the stack pack on top of the boom, they also help guide the mainsail down when you drop it. Ideally, your mainsail will naturally flake as you lower it down inside the stack pack.

When Should You Adjust Your Lazy Jacks?

We do not adjust ours at all. When you raise the mainsail, the boom lifts higher than it does when the weight is on the topping lift. This creates slack in the lines when raising the mainsail. When we drop the mainsail, we first ease our main halyard down until the topping lift is tight. This brings the lazy jacks back to their usual tightness, and then we finish dropping the sail.

If we adjust the topping lift for any reason, we adjust the topping lift. We have a line marked on our topping lift that aligns with the topping lift clutch in the cockpit. This ensures we get the boom to the same height every time.

Our Biggest Problem

Very early in cruising, we discovered that when raising your mainsail, the lazy jacks get in the way. Our mainsail has full battens, and the leech (the aft part of the sail which flogs) end of the battens often get caught on the upsidedown Y shape in the legs.

We complained about this problem to our friend Spike, who was the skipper of the Gunboat Tribe. He pointed out an easy solution: add a second pulley (or low-friction ring ) out from the mast. David and Spike got to work and lashed a low-friction ring on our diamond stays using thin Dyneema. This angles the lazy jacks away from the mast and makes it less likely that they will catch the battens while raising the mainsail.

The Boat Galley offers a way to loosen your lazy jacks and move them forward just before raising the mainsail, but that’s two trips to the mast that you may not have to take.

Replacing Lazy Jacks

Once set up properly, they are very easy to replace. I’ve replaced ours once. All you need is the replacement line and your knowledge of the most important knots for sailors – the bowline! The legs of the lazy jack attach to the stack pack loops with a simple bowline knot. Use a hot knife with the rope cutter attachment to trim your rope and use our tricks to replace running rigging to remove the old lazy jack and replace it with the newer one.

Great idea…but how do you attach the extra pulley? With lashings you say…but doesn t it slide down? Thanks

Nope, doesn’t slide. Lashings done properly won’t slip.

How does the boom movement work when the lazy jack lines are no longer centred on the boom?

No, it doesn’t interfere with the boom swing. The lazy jacks are still even and they have no problem going to one side or the other. We often move the boom at anchor when we are using the lounge deck. Under sail, of course, your lazy jacks are loose as the main is holding the boom up.

Thanks, we are still searching for a solution… we’ve been using Cat Impi’s solution which is just free the main sheet an let the boom out to follow the wind, and this works well in stable seas and constant wind, but not so much if the seas are rough… talked to one guy who ran the lazy Jack’s to blocks on the end of the spreader and then to the mast and down; never got a clear answer as to how he controlled the extra tension in the lines when down wind and the boom was well out…

Pulling the lazy jack’s forward and down is appealing, but wonder if the sail would fall out a bit over the boom… might try it and see… I don’t think I need to do anything but connect a line to the top block on each side and pull it down once I loosen the lazy jack’s…

Your way maybe simpler, but a couple of questions: 1) any concern about extra tension on your rigging. 2) was there issue with extra tension on the jack lines when the boom swings out downwind.

Getting used to life on the hard?

Hey Rick! We haven’t had any issues with additional tension anywhere. Let us know which route you decide to go with!

Ezjack/lazyjack/diy what to look for?

Thread starter Mike Oldak
Start date Oct 5, 2015
Forums for All Owners
Ask All Sailors

I have a 34 foot Hunter and want to install a xxjack system to hold the sails once they are dropped. I've seen a variety of systems and even have someone who will install his own version. What should i be looking for in a xxjack system?

make sure you don't have to go forward and disengage or engage it, that it doesn't catch the battens going up nor interfere with the main when up and drawing and that it has enough lines to actually control the sail when fully lowered--you'll appreciate that in a blow when single handing!

The store on this site has a kit available. It is Harken's and it is quite pricey, but the "medium" kit should work for you. Alternatively, you can make it yourself. For your size boat, you would need at least three "legs" for the lazy jacks. Measure the amount of line three times before you cut it. And consider that you need substantially more line than you initially think. Many people would say that you don't need blocks in the system (a SS ring should do). My experience is that there is a lot of chafe on the rings and (very) small blocks (10-15 mm) work much better. A jam cleat is handy, especially if you are shorthanded.

Take a look at the Sailrite Stack Pack. It's lazy jacks and a sail cover combined. When you drop the sail it falls into the bag, then you just zip the top closed. The downside is the cover stays up all the time and looks funny if its a different color. Get it in white and it's not so obvious. I have one and love it. There are premade ones from other sail makers like Mack and Doyle too.

Hey, Last year I installed this system: http://www.downwindmarine.com/Sail-Care-Lazy-Jack-Kits-p-90891017.html It's very similar to the one I had on my O'day 35 ,which worked great for years. On my O'day, I had the sailcover modified so the LJ's stayed deployed all the time. On my C&C I don't like to have the LJ's deployed while sailing so I go forward to retract them and then again to deploy them before dropping the sail. I should have done a better job of measuring and mounting the hardware. The sail on my C&C is much larger than the one on my O'day 35, so there is more sail to contain. Still, I'm happy with the way they work. Good luck, Barry

I merely tied appropriate lengths of cord to the reef points on the leech, and shackled the ends to the topping lift where they slide up and down. Works great for keeping much of the sail on or near the boom, and I can flake the sail and tie it up easily without leaving the boom. And still can use the reef points if needed. Total cost: $0 -I had the small shackles in inventory.

What is xxjack? I have a Dutchman on my boat and find it works very nicely.

Chris & Lenore

A guy at our club bought these and loved them: http://www.ezjax.com They custom build for each bost vs generic sizing. He did mention that if he did it again he would use the 4 line version (he has a 32 foot boat). He felt it could control the sail better when he dropped it. Chris

I would want 4 lines to the boom each side, looped through two separate rings each side, those two rings looped to a higher ring and that ring tied off and the line led to a block outboard on the spreader to open the "throat", down to a cleat on each side. 6 SS rings, two blocks, two cleats, and eight padeyes on the boom. 5 mm dacron line to make it work. Keeping the system wide at the top makes it a set-and-forget system for most sailing. Similar to what Barry posted. That said, I still like a sail bag the best of all sail control systems.Contains a reefed sail very nicely.

Stu Jackson

When you get one: Lazy Jack Trick Many folks complain about full battens getting caught up when raising the mainsail. They then spend a lot of time moving BOTH sides of the lazy jacks to the mast. We developed an easier way with our lazy jacks. We have a small cleat on the forward starboard side of the boom. When we put the halyard on the headboard, we move ONLY the starboard side of the lazy jacks forward and snug them under the forward side of the horn of this cleat. Then, when we raise the mainsail, instead of going exactly head to wind, we bear off a tad to starboard so the wind is coming from the port side of the bow. We then raise the mainsail and it doesn't get hooked on the lazy jacks even though the port side jacks are still there. Been working for 16 years. Yes, we have to go forward again to unhook the starboard lazy jack for dousing the sail if I forget to do it right when the main is raised, but there's never any hurry. The drill is: after the main is raised, I unhook that starboard lazy jack, so they're both ready to go when we drop the sails at the end of the day. So, for those of you with lazy jacks, consider doing only one side. Your boat, your choice. C:\Users\Stu\Stu\Boat\Lazy Jack Trick.doc

Stu Jackson said: When you get one: Lazy Jack Trick Many folks complain about full battens getting caught up when raising the mainsail. They then spend a lot of time moving BOTH sides of the lazy jacks to the mast. We developed an easier way with our lazy jacks. We have a small cleat on the forward starboard side of the boom. When we put the halyard on the headboard, we move ONLY the starboard side of the lazy jacks forward and snug them under the forward side of the horn of this cleat. Then, when we raise the mainsail, instead of going exactly head to wind, we bear off a tad to starboard so the wind is coming from the port side of the bow. We then raise the mainsail and it doesn't get hooked on the lazy jacks even though the port side jacks are still there. Been working for 16 years. Yes, we have to go forward again to unhook the starboard lazy jack for dousing the sail if I forget to do it right when the main is raised, but there's never any hurry. The drill is: after the main is raised, I unhook that starboard lazy jack, so they're both ready to go when we drop the sails at the end of the day. So, for those of you with lazy jacks, consider doing only one side. Your boat, your choice. Excellent idea! Chris C:\Users\Stu\Stu\Boat\Lazy Jack Trick.doc Click to expand

We have had ezjax for about 10 years now and are quite satisfied. As for avoiding snagging battens, we use shock cord with carabiners on each end and connect the shock cord from ezjax o-rings to the shrouds which pulls the ezjax to the side.

I made my own. I don't use pullies or any type of system to drop it out of the way, however I designed it so that the boom angles down some, once the sail is down. This way, when I raise the sail, the lines go slack, because the boom lifts up. I don't see it as chaffing the sails, as it is so slack when not in use, that it falls away from the sail.

Skipper said: I merely tied appropriate lengths of cord to the reef points on the leech, and shackled the ends to the topping lift where they slide up and down. Works great for keeping much of the sail on or near the boom, and I can flake the sail and tie it up easily without leaving the boom. And still can use the reef points if needed. Total cost: $0 -I had the small shackles in inventory. Click to expand

Tom G P-21 said: Skipper your system is similar to what is called Lazy mate. It is on my list of things to do. It looks like simple enough system. I thought that I would just do the bottom 2/3rd's of the sail. http://westsail.info/index.php?action=posts&thread_id=1491 Click to expand

[QUOTE="I have a 34 foot Hunter and want to install a xxjack system to hold the sails once they are dropped. What should i be looking for in a xxjack system?[/QUOTE] You have a 34, I have a 32. I added a 4th lazy jack line to the aft end of the boom to keep the sail up out of the cockpit and off the bimini.

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How to make simple lazyjacks

Thread starter Babylon
Start date 9 Feb 2011

Well-known member

I wish to equip my 27 footer with simple lazyjacks (ie no zip-closing mainsail cover attached to the boom) to help contain the main when its dropped singlehanded. Is there a description anywhere of how to make them oneself, and from what materials?

It's what google was invented for http://www.westerly-owners.co.uk/woaforum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1243

Active member

Here's how I did it. Get a spool of 3 or 4 mm cordelette. I use dyneema so it is strong enough to support the boom. Tie off at upper spreaders. Run down towards deck and tie a bowline where you can just reach it by standing on the boom. Next piece of cord is made off to the boom well aft, then run up through the bowline on the upper cord, and down to the kicker attachment. At the kicker attachment it runs through a shackle (one one attaching the kicker to the boom) and back up towards the bowline. Make off with a rolling hitch. Repeat on other side of boat. Now you have a two-part lazy jack that can be eased and tightened at the mast just by sliding the rolling hitch. I have added a third part from the bowline to near the gooseneck (again with a rolling hitch) to catch the luff of the sail better. Ease the rolling hitches when the sail is up to prevent chafe. Works for me. Very light, no fittings, blocks or other hardware required, and very strong.

That link gives the basics, however you need to consider being able to adjust the tension of the lazyjacks, as going downwind in particular any lazyjacks tight enough to contain the sail when it is dropped are liable to cause chafe. where the blocks rub on the sail. The best way to rig them is not simply to tie off at spreader level, but fit small blocks and bring the lines down to cleats both sides of the mast. If you have a fully battened mainsail you need to experiment with the lengths of the various lines to find a setup that avoids the batten ends getting caught as you hoist the sail. Yes I know you should hoist the sail going dead upwind, and the sail should rise up centrally between the lazyjacks, but it doen't always work out that way.

I made mine from 3mm nylon bought for less than a fiver for 100meters on ebay. It goes up over the spreaders, which isn't quite high enough, and the bottom ends are through webbing tabs sewn along the foot of the sail above where it slides throught he groove in the boom. They attach on the foot at 15%, 45% and 85% of the foot measurement, measuring from the boom aft. It works very well, espescially for singlehanded sailing, though asa I say needs to be either higher up the mast, widers at the top or maybe both. I'm working on that! The next thing is to make a stackpack, which I reckon I can do for about £50. Thinking about it, I may be able to re-cut the existing sail cover, so maybe make one for a lot less.........

I hook mine around the reefing horns once the sails up. BTW, there's really no need to shell out for little blocks. they're un-necessary and cause chafe. I sewed in plastc eyes which cost about 10p each. The KISS principle. The whole set up cost about £5 with enough line over to make winter tails for all the halyards and keep some spare.

Is this any help? http://slowflight.net/upgrades/lazyjacks_how-to.html

Important to be able to tie them forward to the mast somehow to avoid chafe and also makes hoisting the sail MUCH easier as you no longer have to worry about the battens getting caught. Try plastic eyes to begin with I have one eye and one pulley per side but it is a 44 footer.

Also, think about how you are going to fit your sail cover.

Norman_E said: The best way to rig them is not simply to tie off at spreader level, but fit small blocks and bring the lines down to cleats both sides of the mast. /QUOTE] Alternatively, instead of bringing them down from the blocks to cleats on the mast, you might wish to consider bringing them down to cleats on the boom, a couple of feet or so aft of the goose-neck. This effectively adds another 'leg' and prevents the line banging against the mast and keeping you awake! Click to expand...

10 Feb 2011

lazyjacks You could run the lines vertically to three loops on the topping lift,this is what I did to avoid the battens getting caught when hoisting.I have a bag on the boom to catch the sail as it falls. I used shockcord in the lazyjacks at first to give some stretch but it turned out not to be neccessary.

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Home > Resources > How to Install a Precision Sails Lazy Jack Bag System

How to Install a Precision Sails Lazy Jack Bag System

12 June 2017

Ask Precision Sails , Hardware , Products and Accessories Tags: How to install lazy jacks , lazy bag , Lazy Cradle , Lazy Jack System , mainsail bag , Stack pack

The Lazy Cradle is possibly the easiest way to cover your mainsail and is perfect for short-handed crews. One simply lowers the halyard, settling the sail in the cover, and zips the top for complete coverage.

The Precision Sails Lazy Cradle Boom Cover is manufactured from solution dyed Acrylic Sunbrela brand fabric with polyester or nylon webbing so that, while it keeps your sail clean and protected, it is itself appealing and compliments your boat. This fabric is used specifically because it can offer protection against physical abrasion as well as the elements, especially UV damage. As well, its ability to breath prevents any threat of mildew.

Along with the Boom Cover, the Cradle comes complete with mast collar, lines and rings. The cover is stiffened at the top with battens(optional) that hold the cover open when raising or lowering the sail and provide a straight clean look when not in use. A YKK zippered flap closes the top as well as the forward end. The zipper sliders are fitted with lanyards and close bottom up for easy use.

Much like a sail, the sail cover of each boat is unique and should be tailored to the specific dimensions required by the vessel’s set up. At Precision Sail we provide an easy to use and comprehensive measurement form that will ensure your cover operates effectively so that you can get the most out of your sails.

How to Install Video Precision Sails Lazy

3 Grommet Bag Video Below

Suggestion :

Rough out the layout of your Precision Sails Lazy Jack Bag on the lawn or floor to ensure good angles are achieved to support the bag well. Use a 2X4 or a long line to simulate your mast and use the bag to simulate your boom. The goal is to have the bag supported and the lines to guide the sail down into the bag.

Lazy Jack Bag and System Install Instructions:

There are many ways to arrange the lines, however my preference for a 4 grommet system is to make 4 sections of rope and use 3 rings per side. (See Diagram Below) For a 3 grommet bag use the same general layout with 3 lines and only 2 rings.

Install Battens

If you chose to order round fiberglass battens with your bag, attach the battens together with the sleeves and cut to length if needed (use hacksaw)

If you didn’t order battens, 1″ PVC piping works well. Cut to length and insert in the batten pockets on both sides of the bag

Lines 1 & 2 – Rings 1 & 2

Line 1 & 2 should be approximately the same length.

Line 1 runs from grommet 1 to grommet 2 through ring one. (do not attach the ring to the line)

Line 2 runs from grommet 3 to 4 through ring two (do not attach the ring to the line)

To attach Line 1 and Line 2 to your bag. Run the line through the grommets and tie directly to the batten inside the bag. A bowline knot is a good choice .

Line 3 – Ring 3

Line 3 is tied to the ring on Line 1 runs through ring 3 and is tied to the ring on line 2.

Control Line (Line 4)

Line 4 (control line) is tied to ring 3 and runs vertically through the block on your mast and down to a cleat toward the base of the mast.

Control Line Blocks – The control line will run from the highest ring (ring 3) up to a set of blocks on the mast and down to a cleat toward the base of the mast.

The blocks should be installed approximately 1/2-3/4 from goose neck to the top of the mast (the longer the boom the higher you should install). The exact location will depend on other lines, gear, spreaders on your mast. Find a location that is at least 1/2 the way up the mast to ensure there is a good angle to keep the lines high enough to catch the sail.

See Diagram Below: (Four Grommet Bag)

Pictures courtesy of Carl Kotheimer

Operating your Precision Sails Lazy Bag:

Once you bag is installed you are ready to go out and give it try. You have two choices while sailing:

Leave the lazy jack lines and the bag up.
Release the lazy jack lines by releasing the support line from the cleat at the base of the mast. Bring the lines close the mast and tie them to the mast out of the way of the mainsail (use a line or a bungee). The bag will now also be lowered and can be attached to the boom (sail ties work well) and kept out of the way of any rigging or the sail.
When you are ready to lower your mainsail, prepare the lines and the bag back their original position and lower the bag directly into the bag allowing it to flake naturally. Once inside the bag close the zipper.

If you have any questions please reach out for help.

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General Ericson Forums
Maintenance & Mechanical

Super-Simple DIY lazy jacks?

Thread starter adam
Start date Dec 12, 2012

Dec 12, 2012

Randy Rutledge

Sustaining member.

Adam My Lazy jacks consist of 1/4 inch yacht braid and bowline knots with the only hardware being a halyard block and a snap shackle. The attachment shows different colors for the different segments of the lines, all connections are bowline knots. Both of the upper lines (purple) are placed in the snap shackle on the halyard (green) at the front of the mast (this is to make boom removal easier for mast stepping). The top segment hooks under the whisker pole ring on the front of the mast when down and then pull halyard tight to hold there.

Attachments

Guy Stevens

I had read your article when I made my system, I simplified the halyard (result lines against the mast and single halyard) eye splices instead of thimbles and 1/4 yacht braid ($15 at our local flea market) Thanks for that article and all the support you give this and other sites.

Second Star

Simple lazy jacks Adam, I have a traditional set of LJ on my 28+ and while it works reasonably well it does have a few issues. Your concept looks workable. It would address a problem I have in that the full battens catch the line parallel to the leech when raising the sail. My concerns are that yours will slide down the toping lift unless well attached there and since you plan to move forward to undue the bottom attachment to the boom and move them to the end of the boom (which may not be reachable unless close hauled under sail) you are kinda defeating the purpose of limiting the need to move around when single handed. That problem may be reduced if you run the boom ends forward to the mast then aft to the cockpit but that complicates the system. Give your idea a try; it won't cost much!

Innocent Bystander

I used Guy's approach on my 32 and it's worked quite well for several years. Thanks, Guy!

Loren Beach

O34 - portland, or.

Prior ralated thread..... http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?1084-Lazy-Jack&referrerid=28

" . . . the full battens catch the line parallel to the leech when raising the sail ..." if you can make the LJs fall vertically instead of angled as usually shown, they tend not to catch the batten ends. I did this by running lines P & S up through the spreader blocks and back to the far end of the boom where I tied them off - then dropping the risers from fixed points on the "clotheslines" (just tied them on with rolling a hitch) - looks like a suspension bridge. works fine and is as cheap as the line and a couple of small blocks. Tie-ing the P & S risers together under the boom, eliminates the need for putting fittings into the boom. Since I don't race, I leave them deployed all the time (instead of pulling the assembly back to the mast - which requires a little more complexity).

Rocinante33

Contributing partner.

Dec 13, 2012

Guy Stevens said: But here is a several thousand word article I wrote for Good Old Boat. No point in writing it all out again here. http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_services/articles/tamers.php Should give you some things to think about. Cheapest, and best Lazy Jacks both. Have fun. Guy Click to expand...

I have the Harken style system. I have been singlehanding my boat for about 5 years and have had no problem handling the lazy jacks.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm going to start experimenting with the default method for lazy jacks, but I'm a bit concerned about the mess/clutter when it's stowed. Aren't all these lines going to be somewhat in the way of the main and jib halyards?

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Sailing with lazy jacks and stack packs.

What are lazy jacks and stack packs?

Lazy jacks are networks of lines that are rigged along each side of the mainsail from multiple points on the boom or a stack pack to a point on the mast just above the spreaders, at about 60% the mast's height. Their purpose is to hold the mainsail on top of the boom when it is lowered.

Typically, lines called "legs" are joined with single lines called "risers" to form two upside-down Y shapes. However, lazy jack legs and risers can be rigged in a variety of configurations. Also, the legs can be joined to the risers with blocks, rings, or even tied together. The space between the two sets of lazy jacks on either side of the sail is known as the "pocket."

The stack pack (sometimes called a lazy pack or lazy bag) is a modern type of a sail cover. It is secured to the boom and zips closed at the top to protect the sail from sun damage when it's not in use.

Lazy jacks can be set up with or without a stack pack. When a stack pack is present, the lazy jacks are tied to the stack pack to support it. With no stack pack, the lazy jacks are rigged directly to the boom.

lazy jacks and stack pack system image.jpg

Nine yachts in the Modern Sailing School & Club fleet are equipped with lazy jack systems. Only one of these has lazy jacks with no stack pack.

Fiore Italia (Beneteau Oceanis 31)
Kokomo (Catalina 320) - lazy jacks only, no stack pack
Traharta (Beneteau Oceanis 35)
Auriah (Beneteau Oceanis 37)
Sijambo (Beneteau Oceanis 423)
Ry Whitt (Jeanneau 409)
Coho II (Spencer 1330)
Vela Mare (Seawind 1160 Catamaran)
Kanaloa (Fontaine Pajot Lavezzi 40 Catamaran)

Advantages

On larger boats, a mainsail can be very heavy and unweildy to handle, especially in high winds. When dousing, lazy jacks guide the mainsail into the stack pack and keep it neatly flaked on top of the boom - instead of flopping all over the deck. In San Francisco Bay, lazy jacks and stack packs are particularly useful, even on smaller boats.
Since a stack pack remains on the boom even while sailing, there's no separate sail cover to wrestle with and no need to fiddle with snaps or clasps at the bottom. After dousing the mainsail, simply zip up the stack pack and you're done!
When hoisting the mainsail, batten ends can get snagged on the lazy jacks. It takes a bit of caution and precision steering to raise the main without snagging it.
A stack pack adds windage that can detrimentally affect sailing performance to some degree. For many leisure sailors and cruisers, this is not a major concern.
Lazy jacks are not intended to replace the topping lift as support for the boom. Never loosen the topping lift to the point that the lazy jacks bear the boom's weight.

How To Hoist a Mainsail with Lazy Jacks

Your goal is raise the mainsail without snagging the battens on the lazy jacks. The trick is for the helmsman to watch the sail as it goes up, steer carefully, and use the breeze to help keep the mainsail in the pocket between the lazy jacks.

Steer the boat to head the bow into the wind. Keep the boat pointed as straight into the wind as possible.
Loosen the mainsheet and begin hoisting the mainsail.
As the mainsail approaches the point where the legs join the risers, keep a close eye on the sail. If the wind is pushing the sail into one of the legs, steer towards the wind until the sail is luffing evenly between the lazy jacks (in the pocket) on both sides again.
If a batten gets snagged on the lazy jack, immediately instruct your crew to stop hoisting, then lower the sail until the batten is clear of the line. Steer the boat towards the wind just until the wind pushes the sail back into the pocket.

Additional Tips

In "Hurricane Alley" (the entrance to Richardson Bay, the Sausalito arm of San Francisco Bay), winds often blow in a circular or erratic pattern, which can complicate hoisting a mainsail with battens and lazy jacks. Before hoisting the mainsail, check the masthead windex frequently to determine if wind direction is steady. If not, consider motoring to a location such as Racoon Straights or The Slot where the wind direction may be more steady. Note that heavy winds will luff the mainsail more vigorously, increasing the odds that you'll experience a snag. (Wind conditions and directions on the Bay may vary by season and weather.)
Never force a stuck sail by grinding hard on a winch. Excessive force could damage the sail, lazy jacks, or other components.

How To Douse the Mainsail

Hoisting the mainsail may require attention and skill, but dousing is a breeze - and the best part of sailing with lazy jacks!

If conditions and crew size permit, send a crew member forward to stand in front of the mast and evenly flake the luff of the sail as it comes down.
Steer to point the boat's bow into the wind and loosen the mainsheet.
If a crew member is at the mast to flake the sail, ease the main halyard in a controlled manner to facilitate flaking. Otherwise, simply douse the sail and let it fall into the stack pack.
Zip the stack pack closed. That's it!

Additional Tip

If the mainsail didn't flake evenly into the stack pack as it was doused, the stack pack may be difficult (or impossible) to zip closed. If conditions at the dock permit, hoist and douse the sail again and stand at the mast to flake it evenly as it comes down. Also, it helps to tug the leech to straighten out the sail, if necessary.

Coho II mainsail lazy jacks and stack pack.jpg

Article by Mary Elkins on February 6, 2020

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Lazy Jack – stack pack sail covers

Click on the images in the gallery below for a step by step guide.

These names are some of the descriptions for a process of suspending sail covers.

I started making these Lazy Jack covers 20 years ago, as a progress/advance of the Lazy Jack rope system, designed to help flake a main sail as it is put away. The idea was to connect the rope to a sail cover to avoid having to remove the cover every time the boat was used. A few sailmakers and I had started making them by request; each one we made had small changes and became more functional as time went on. A sailmaker from Doyle Sails approached me one day and asked if he could copy some of my ideas, as he liked the way my covers worked. I agreed on the condition we swap ideas, as his shop was the only other manufacturer making improvements on each cover. We worked together for more than three years improving every one. As expected, others tried to copy our work with limited success.

Most of the original designs had removable front sections, which became annoying as many were blown, even lost, overboard. We then moved to either a front or side zip, and the excess fabric was tucked away on Velcro tabs inside the cover, as they are prepared for sailing.

We still make some this way. Most covers are tracked at the aft side of the mast. This makes them much more functional and user friendly, as there is only one zip to open. We even sometimes incorporate the zip slide into a continuous-loop pulley system. This way you can stand at the mast and open and close the bag. This is very handy when access to the aft of the boom is restricted by high Targas or are just too high to reach. We use Ronstan 19mm bearing pulleys for smoother deployment. There are different types; some can be screwed directly to the mast. The rope we use is a 6mm pre-stretch. At the bottom of the sail cover we run 12mm-1/2-inch PVC pipe between the two layers, through which the rope runs. This stops any friction on the continuous-loop system.

The covers we build are all Sunbrella acrylic canvas and are fully lined with mesh. This adds strength for the rope pull points. It stops abrasion from the corners of the sail when flaked and effectively stops the wearing to the Sunbrella and allows breathability. Breathability is very important to stop mold on the sail. As a further benefit, this adds a second layer where the batten is slid inside. The batten size we use is called Offshore 2 or 3, depending on how big the boat cover is. The No. 2 is 18mm by 8mm thick.

In addition, where the covers are mounted to the mast with track, sometimes we add a zip on one side to allow the owner access to the mast runners. The track mounting procedure is essential to add strength and stop corrosion between the track and the mast. We use 1mm VHB tape and Tef Gel on the screws to stop dissimilar metal corrosion between track and mast.

The covers are held to the boom with slugs. These are boom runners every 300mm, or 1 foot, apart. This adds a second tier of breathability and allows the release of water. Doing this also allows the reef points to sit where necessary without running them through the cover.

The main zip is a No. 15 Paskal zipper. Many of the original designs needed zip replacement regularly, mainly because of rough treatment. An upgrade was necessary for durability.

A zip on a sail cover is sitting flat, horizontal to the sun. Covering it is very important to eliminate UV degradation of the top zipper. Our solution is two-fold: First, the teeth are sewn inside each edge by 8mm (1/4 inch). Second, I make a molded acrylic cover flap, 60mm (2½ inches) wide. At the aft end, we add a 200mm zip extension. This is covered top and bottom to protect it from the elements. We do not use separating end zips on our sail covers. We use continuous zippers and again at the aft end. We use a canvas-to-canvas attachment version of the Stayput fastener. It is bolted right through the covering layers and next to the teeth on the zip. This stops the zipper from coming undone and acts as the stopper for the zip slide. PTFE lifetime thread is a must, and I have used it for 20 years on all my covers.

Early in my business I spent time analyzing failure points of covers. These are three-fold:

Use lifetime PTFE thread.
Where possible, fold edges and do not use binding.
Properly cover all zips from UV.

In our local marinas, we have a very bad bird problem. Where most manufacturers carry the batten to the end of the cover, we stop them short of the end. We tailor the end of the cover down to a small opening. Doing this keeps the swallows and pigeons from nesting inside. In addition, we add extra eyelets in the gap between the track base and the start of the first slug, at the front of the boom. Lacing shock cord loosely between these eyelets stops bird access. If not used, birds usually find this access point quickly, which results in damage to cover and sail. We adapt the traditional look from a standard sail cover by placing a batten at the drop-off point. The drop-off point is the widest point of our sail covers. This method helps our sail covers shed rain. We believe most manufacturers create a water catcher by placing the batten too high.

I will be attending the 2017 MFA Conference in Jacksonville, and am always available if you have any questions. I am reachable on the Cover and Cushion Forum or by email. From time to time I will call to explain in detail.

David Elliott owns David’s Custom Trimmers in Brisbane, Australia.

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How To Install Lazy Jacks

By Green Brett
Updated: October 28, 2015

Installing Lazy Jacks

In the glory days of sail, the British sailors were known as jack-tars, and with a flurry of shouted commands from the quarterdeck, they could have a huge sail furled or reefed in seconds. Today, forcibly pressing large numbers of civilians into low-paying servitude aboard your boat is generally frowned upon, so new methods have been developed to tame sails. One of the most important innovations for shorthanded sailing is, arguably, lazy jacks, so named because the sailor using them can simply let go of the halyard. The sail then drops into a nice basket on top of the boom ready for furling or reefing—no sail wrestling involved. As an added bonus, the person on the helm never has his or her vision blocked by the sail.

For our 44-foot Reliance ketch, Lyra , my wife, Jen, and I wanted a non-intrusive lazy jack system that could be quickly deployed, adjusted with one hand, and put safely away when not in use. We didn’t want to alter our existing sail cover, and we didn’t want the lazy jacks to chafe the sail.

After a couple of hours of raising and lowering the main while mocking up the lazy jacks using parachute cord and halyards, we decided that three support lines did the job. Each of the support lines is fastened to the boom just forward of the leech end of a batten; the sail should naturally land in the basket and shouldn’t hang on the support lines when it’s being raised. Each of the cheek blocks for the halyards aloft should be independently able to take the weight of the boom.

Materials and Costs

For the halyard on our lazy jack installation aboard Lyra, we used 55 feet each side (110 feet in total) of 1/4-inch braided Sta-Set X [1] , from New England Ropes, at a cost of $78. We used 42 feet each side (84 feet in total) of 3/16-inch braided Sta-Set X [2] for the support lines; this cost $45. The six 1/4-inch Orbit blocks [3] from Ronstan—we used three on each side—cost $72. The total cost of the two 1/4-inch Spinlock jammers [4] we used, one per side, was $84. The 12 Ronstan sister clips [5], used six to a side, cost $24. The total cost of our new lazy jack system? $303, along with six hours of labor, most of which we spent developing the right configuration. Miscellaneous items we used include whipping twine, a sewing needle, a hot knife, machine screws with appropriate taps, a drill, bits, and cutting oil for drilling and tapping.

Green Brett has been sailing and living aboard since childhood, and he currently shares his love of cruising through his company, On Watch Sailing charters and instruction, out of Newport, Rhode Island.

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Dutchman Sail Flaking System

“let dutchman flake your main—you’ve got more important things to do”.

The Dutchman Sail Flaking System uses vertical control lines laced through fairleads in the sail. The lines are attached to the topping lift and at the base of the sail, and don’t move. The sail slides up and down on the lines like a Roman shade. As you drop the sail, the lines guide the main down to alternate sides of the boom. A few seconds straightening, and you’re done. One person can perfectly flake pretty much any size sail in under 20 seconds. Many owners don’t even bother with sail ties. Offshore sailors particularly like how easy it makes reefing. The system collects the sail on the boom with no need to tie in the intermediate reef points. If your lines are led aft, you can reef entirely from the cockpit.

The ‘Dutchman’ Works with All Sails

The “Dutchman” works with conventional or full-batten sails, and can be easily retrofitted to an existing main. There is no effect on sail shape.

The Advantage over Lazy Jacks

The sail can’t get caught on the Dutchman lines is it is raised or lowered. Lazy jacks catch often, particularly in a sloppy sea. Lazy jacks were developed for gaff or junk rigs which the Dutchman can’t work with. With such rigs, the leech is always behind the jack lines, so they never catch the sail. Many people find it annoying that Lazy Jacks always catch the leech as you raise and lower a modern sail, even if you’re head to wind. Imagine hoisting the sail between a web of lines about one foot apart with the leech moving back and forth. No wonder it catches.

There’s no need to head into the wind to raise, lower, or reef the sail. Just let the sail luff. The Dutchman lines pass through the fairleads in the sail every 2 to 3 feet, so they can’t chafe the sail.

The Dutchman tabs automatically slacken the control lines after the sail is raised. Adjust it once and you’re done. Lazy jacks have to be adjusted or moved forward and back every time you raise and lower the sail.

More importantly, the Dutchman works better with today’s stiffer sails. Lazy jacks were fine with the soft sails of 30 years ago that you rolled up, but do not offer enough space between the lines to make nice, big, loose folds with today’s stiffer sail fabrics.

The Dutchman is inconspicuous, with no noise, chafe, catching or performance loss. Your sail lasts longer, and it’s only about $200-$300 over the cost of Lazy jacks. Not a bad deal. And probably why, after more than 14 years and 20,000 systems, it’s the number one system and growing.

Easier to use. Easier on your sails.

Any Performance Loss?

Performance loss is par with adding a flag halyard. The control lines are about 2mm (1/16th inch) in diameter, and the “hole” in the sail is really a vertical slit just wide enough for the control line to pass through. There is virtually no performance loss.

When you raise the sail, the Dutchman tabs sewn to the base of the sail stand up, lessening the tension on the control lines. When the sail is dropped, it pushes down on the tabs, tightening the control lines. There’s no adjusting needed, unlike lazy jacks, which need a lot of messing with.

How Do I Reef?

Use normal slab or jiffy reefing. However, since the Dutchman holds the sail on the boom, you don’t need to tie off the intermediate reef points (the ones in the middle of the sail). Many owners, especially those who sail offshore, comment on how much easier this makes the reefing. Of course, it helps that the sail is not flogging itself all over the deck!

What About the Sail Cover?

Most owners modify their existing cover by adding vertical zippers that run up one side. The C System eliminates the need for zippered slits. Or use a sailcover which is split along the top, and fastened to either side of the boom. Unroll and snap each half to the control line, then use Velcro to fasten together. Be sure your sailcover fits loosely. A tight cover makes sharp creases, which will shorten your sail’s life.

101 Answers to Your Toughest Boating Questions

Q : I’m thinking about installing lazy-jacks or a Dutchman system to aid in dousing my sails. Which is best?

A : Both lazyjacks and the Dutchman are dependable, non-mechanical sail-control systems. Lazyjacks are known for their simplicity and are a great help in guiding themainsail aloft, as well as containing it atop the boom when dropped. But lazyjacks require the skipper to keep precisely head-to-wind and carefully monitor the process, since battens sometimes can snare the lazyjack lines and create problems as the sail comes down under its own weight or is hoisted. Although less expensive than a Dutchman, lazyjacks don’t attach to the sail. As a result, the sail drops into a pile along the boom. Battens provide some orderliness, but flaking is usually necessary before putting on the sail cover. Using a StackPack zippered sail cover can ease this process, since it remains on the boom and the sail drops into it like a pod. Lazyjacks also tend to put creases in the sails and cause chafe, shortening their life span. However, lazyjacks are better suited for older sails, which often are somewhat worn and softened. Installing lazyjacks also means it might be necessary to modify your sail cover to accommodate the lines. With a Dutchman system, the sail is doused and flaked at the same time. A series of grommets are mounted into the sail and are threaded with control lines that lead upward, similar to a Roman window shade. Most experts concur that a Dutchman, albeit more expensive, is both easier to use and gentler on sailcloth than lazyjacks. Keep in mind that the Dutchman should be installed by a sailmaker because only perfect alignment will assure proper operation. Also, a Dutchman, unlike lazyjacks, isn’t suitable for gaff-rigged boats.

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How To Make Lazy Jacks Easy To Use
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How To Make Lazy Jacks Easy To Use
Simple Lazy Jacks for my Small Sailboat.
How To Make Lazy Jacks Easy To Use

VIDEO

Kayak Jack Boat Lift: Making Kayaking Accessible #boatlift #kayaking
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Jack Ziegler launches "Lazy Jack" in Peoria, Illinois 1969

COMMENTS

How To Make Lazy Jacks Easy To Use
Easy DIY: A quick bit of rigging makes it so that battens don't catch on lazy jacks when raising the main. Step-by-step instructions with photos. ... The sail battens catch on the lazy jacks and you have to raise the sail a few inches at a time and time the ups perfectly as the lazy jack flips out of the way so the batten doesn't catch.
Lazyjacks for Your Mainsail
The simplest possible system involves having the risers of the lazyjacks (1/4in pre-stretched line) secured to padeyes about 50-60 percent up the mast, or just above the spreaders. The legs are secured to the boom about two-thirds of the way abaft the gooseneck, taken up about 6ft and through small blocks or stainless steel rings on the falls ...
Simple Lazy Jacks for my Small Sailboat.
Paul VanNess shows you how to make a simple set of lazy jacks for a small sailboat aboard "Rainbow Dash, a SanJuan 21 MKII.Music: All music on this channel ...
DIY Lazy-jacks: Mainsail Tamers
Lazy jacks made of three-strand nylon for the average boat can be assembled for about $91. The same lazy jacks in Sta-Set would cost about $160. Don't let cost be the only deciding factor; each line has advantages and disadvantages. Three-strand nylon is simple to splice, requiring no tools and little knowledge.
Home Made Lazy Jack System
Two bonus features. 1. The two main lazy jack lines can be unclipped and used as sail ties. 2. The two unclipped shock lines can be attached to halyards when cleated to the shroud cleat to pull the halyards from banging on the mast. The very aft spring line is attached and also acts as a sail tie.
What Are Sailing Lazy Jacks?
Commercial or DIY Lazy Jacks? The first major decision you will have to make before getting a lazy jack is going to the commercial or DIY options. One of the main disadvantages of commercial lazy jacks is the cost. For larger sailboats, these kits can run up into the hundreds or thousands of dollars depending on the size of the sailboat you have.
How to Rig a Lug Sail and Very Simple Lazy Jacks
Lug sail rigging and my simple diy lazy jacks.People have asked me how I rigged my lazy jacks and how I secure or attach the blocks to the boom so I decided...
Do-it-Yourself Lazy Jacks ?
It's been in use for 5 years and does the job nicely. I used nylon parachute line sold at most marine stores, two brass rings as the junction points where the lazy jacks split to the fore and aft of the boom. Two pad eyes on the under side of the boom to loop the lines. The top of the lazy jacks are tied to the spreaders along side the mast ...
DIY Sailboat Lazy Jacks
On This Episode of New Salts Ignacio designs and installs our DIY Lazyjack System. Trailer Sailer Next week we will be setting up the spinnaker hardware, in...
Lazy Jacks for Your Sailboat: Tips & Tricks
The lazy jacks keep the stack pack upright. The stack pack has a batten down the length of either side and integrated into the stack pack (and around the battens) are four loops on either side. The lazy jacks tie to those loops. The part of the lazy jacks connected to the stack pack are the legs. Each leg is tied to the stack pack loop on ...
Ezjack/lazyjack/diy what to look for?
Lazy Jack Trick Many folks complain about full battens getting caught up when raising the mainsail. They then spend a lot of time moving BOTH sides of the lazy jacks to the mast. We developed an easier way with our lazy jacks. We have a small cleat on the forward starboard side of the boom.
How to make simple lazyjacks
Repeat on other side of boat. Now you have a two-part lazy jack that can be eased and tightened at the mast just by sliding the rolling hitch. I have added a third part from the bowline to near the gooseneck (again with a rolling hitch) to catch the luff of the sail better. Ease the rolling hitches when the sail is up to prevent chafe. Works ...
How to Install a Precision Sails Lazy Jack Bag System
Release the lazy jack lines by releasing the support line from the cleat at the base of the mast. Bring the lines close the mast and tie them to the mast out of the way of the mainsail (use a line or a bungee). The bag will now also be lowered and can be attached to the boom (sail ties work well) and kept out of the way of any rigging or the sail.
Super-Simple DIY lazy jacks?
My Lazy jacks consist of 1/4 inch yacht braid and bowline knots with the only hardware being a halyard block and a snap shackle. The attachment shows different colors for the different segments of the lines, all connections are bowline knots. Both of the upper lines (purple) are placed in the snap shackle on the halyard (green) at the front of ...
Sailing With Lazy Jacks and Stack Packs
The stack pack (sometimes called a lazy pack or lazy bag) is a modern type of a sail cover. It is secured to the boom and zips closed at the top to protect the sail from sun damage when it's not in use. Lazy jacks can be set up with or without a stack pack. When a stack pack is present, the lazy jacks are tied to the stack pack to support it.
Lazy Jack
These names are some of the descriptions for a process of suspending sail covers. I started making these Lazy Jack covers 20 years ago, as a progress/advance of the Lazy Jack rope system, designed to help flake a main sail as it is put away. The idea was to connect the rope to a sail cover to avoid having to remove the cover every time the boat ...
Dyneema Lazy Jacks, DIY!
Finally got the Dyneema, (or is it Spectra?) to make my new Lazy Jacks. After measuring the temporary strings I had used to hold the sail pack I could then c...
How to Install Lazy Jacks
For the halyard on our lazy jack installation aboard Lyra, we used 55 feet each side (110 feet in total) of 1/4-inch braided Sta-Set X [1] , from New England Ropes, at a cost of $78. We used 42 feet each side (84 feet in total) of 3/16-inch braided Sta-Set X [2] for the support lines; this cost $45. The six 1/4-inch Orbit blocks [3] from ...
How to Make a Sail Pack
Sewing Bottom Hem - 25:13 min. Starting Mast Boot - 27:02 min. Attaching Lock Straps, Rings & Loops - 29:32 min. Preparing Slits for Lazy Jack Lines - 40:49 min. Finishing Cover Panels - 49:26 min. Finishing Mast Boot - 51:21 min. Optional Zipper Slider Control Line - 1:00:19 min.
Dutchman Sail Flaking System
Lazy jacks have to be adjusted or moved forward and back every time you raise and lower the sail. More importantly, the Dutchman works better with today's stiffer sails. Lazy jacks were fine with the soft sails of 30 years ago that you rolled up, but do not offer enough space between the lines to make nice, big, loose folds with today's ...
Lazy Jacks Installation
Lazy Jacks Installation (Pfeiffer Marine) Part 1Are you looking to install lazy jacks for sailboats? In this video I show you the steps I made for my lazy ja...
Jiffy Jax
The 4,5 and 6 line systems each utilize one additional interwoven aft line. The JIFFY JAX sail flaking system provides for higher vertical sail support than other lazy jack line systems and consequently allows you to lower the main in less than ideal "turn into the wind" conditions. JIFFY JAX are stowed taut against the boom and mast using 1/4 ...
Sailing Tips
Subscribe to MonkeySee for more great videos: http://goo.gl/Py1pN0 Kevin Wensley, Director of Operations with Offshore Sailing, provides tips and techniques ...

How To Make Lazy Jacks Easy To Use

Using Improved Lazy Jacks

How to Make Your Lazy Jacks Easy to Use

Preparation

Step One: Add Cleats on Mast

Step Two: Pad Eyes and Blocks on the Mast

Step Three: New Lazy Jack Control Line

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How to Install a Precision Sails Lazy Jack Bag System

How to Install Video Precision Sails Lazy

Lazy Jack Bag and System Install Instructions:

Install Battens

Lines 1 & 2 – Rings 1 & 2

Line 3 – Ring 3